From the Sector

The Toulouse Biotechnology Institute (TBI), a joint INSA Toulouse/ INRAE/ CNRS research unit, and Carbios, a French green chemistry company pioneering the world of bioplasturgy, presented a study entitled ”An engineered enzyme embedded into PLA to make self-biodegradable plastic”. This study reinforces Carbios and TBI's pioneering work in the field of enzymatic degradation of plastics.

The work describes the engineering strategies deployed to ensure the development of an enzyme capable of biologically depolymerizing polylactic acid (PLA)-based plastic materials over a wide temperature and pH range, reflecting the natural variations found in the life cycle of domestic compost.

It also describes the methodologies and challenges involved in obtaining homogeneous incorporation of the enzyme into PLA films at high temperatures (170°C), while retaining sufficient activity to enable the plastic produced to degrade completely and rapidly under domestic and industrial composting conditions, as well as in anaerobic digestion (methanization). It highlights the optimization process used to obtain an enzyme capable of withstanding the 170°C required to melt it into PLA by extrusion. The new enzymatic material is shown to disintegrate and biodegrade at a much faster rate than the 26 weeks required for certification for use in home composting, and also to help produce more biomethane, another source of waste recovery. It is also stated that the enzymatic material remains intact during long-term storage, and that its degradation will only be activated when transferred to composting or methanization conditions, thus guaranteeing its compatibility with PLA-based commercial applications such as flexible packaging or short-life items like food containers.

This work was mainly carried out within the INSA/Carbios PoPlaB (Polymers, Plastics and Biotechnology) cooperative laboratory at TBI and was supported by a grant for scientific research (THANAPLAST project, OSEO ISI contract number I 1206040W).

Transforming old textiles into new, high-quality materials on a large scale – that is the subject of a new innovation project by eeden, the Textile Logistics Center (CTL) at the Niederrhein University of Applied Sciences and the Fraunhofer IML, and Hohenstein.

The project aims to promote a circular textile economy through technological and logistical optimizations. eeden's innovative fiber-to-fiber recycling process will be further developed to efficiently process textile waste from laundries. Additionally, logistics will be restructured, from collection to recycling, to ensure a resource-conserving and efficient supply of this material stream. With a total investment of over €625,000, the project is co-financed by the Ministry for the Environment, Nature Conservation and Transport of the State of North Rhine-Westphalia and the European Union as part of the Green Economy in NRW innovation competition.

Hohenstein and eeden jointly conduct analytical tests on used textiles to accurately determine the properties of the textile waste after various cleaning cycles.

Subsequently, the CTL, supported by eeden, will develop a concept for the efficient procurement of raw materials and their integration into a sustainable business structure.

Finally, the new process will be validated by eeden on a technical scale. By 2026, the close collaboration between eeden, the Center Textile Logistics (CTL) and Hohenstein aims to promote textile circularity and make a significant contribution to reducing textile waste.

Kraig Biocraft Laboratories, Inc. announces that it has entered the rapid growth rearing phase for its third spider silk production cycle of the season. During this phase, the silkworms grow exponentially in preparation for spinning the Company’s proprietary recombinant spider silk cocoons.

Over the last week, the Company has taken steps to add additional production space to accommodate the rapidly growing silkworms during this phase. The Company continues to closely monitor the health and performance of the entire silkworm colony during this period of significant growth. Reports from the Company’s rearing team continue to show that the BAM-1 Hybrids are the most robust production strain that the Company has ever fielded.

As previously reported, the Company has adopted a batch-rearing process to minimize overcrowding and level loading the need for fresh, dry mulberry during the traditional rainy season. This approach is designed to further support silkworm colony health and ensure optimal rearing and cocooning conditions.

Latest developments in the sustainable textile industry will be introduced and discussed at the “Cellulose Fibres Conference 2025 – New with Biosynthetics” in Cologne, Germany and online, on 12-13 March 2025. Abstract submission is now open.

In 2024, 214 participants enjoyed two conference days in Cologne or online. The highlights were 40 presentations with lively panel discussions afterwards, the innovation award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year”, an exhibition, the poster session and plenty of networking possibilities. All of this will be repeated in 2025, including new topics, new speakers and new inputs. The “Cellulose Fibres Conference 2025” will again cover the entire value chain, from lignocellulose, chemical pulp, cellulose fibres such as rayon, viscose, modal or lyocell and new developments to a wide range of applications, e.g. textiles from renewable fibres, nonwovens such as wet wipes and composites, hygiene and packaging. The conference will further address topics like circular economy, fibre-to-fibre recycling and sustainable carbon cycles, biosynthetics, new technologies and feedstocks.

Call for Abstracts
Enterprises and research institutes are invited to contribute to the program and present their innovative products, technologies or developments. Deadline for submission is 30 September 2024.
cellulose-fibres.eu/call-for-abstracts

Call for Innovations
The conference will conclude with the innovation award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation 2025” whose winner can join the ranks of amazing innovations. The deadline for innovation submissions is 30 November 2024. The innovation award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2025” is sponsored by GIG Karasek.
cellulose-fibres.eu/award-application

Call for posters
The poster exhibition is highly anticipated event at the conference. Poster submissions are open until 31 January 2025.
cellulose-fibres.eu/call-for-posters

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, and The Nonwovens Institute (NWI), announced a collaboration agreement to provide continuing education to the nonwovens industry. This agreement expands upon the ongoing partnership between INDA and NWI, whereby the two organizations have successfully presented training programs, covering the full spectrum of the nonwovens value chain from raw materials to processes to products.

Under terms of the agreement, INDA and NWI will develop and present a full roster of training courses, featuring a combination of classroom learning supported by hands-on activities in NWI’s world-class nonwoven production and testing labs on the Centennial Campus of North Carolina State University. The two organizations will also work together to explore additional educational programming to serve the needs of the nonwovens industry as they evolve over time.

The current roster of INDA/NWI training courses include:

• Elementary Nonwovens
• Intermediate Nonwovens
• Fiber and Filament Extrusion Fundamentals
• Meltblown Technology
• Nonwoven Bonding Fundamentals
• Nonwoven Fabric Property Development and Characterization
• Nonwoven Product Development and Innovation
• Spunbond Technology

Course registration is open to INDA/NWI members and non-members. The INDA/NWI Short Course Value Pack program enables companies to purchase a block of registrations, which can be used by any combination of employees to register for any combination of training courses, at a discounted rate. Value Packs are available in bundles of 5, 10, 15, and 20 registrations, with discounts ranging from 10 percent to 25 percent, depending on the size of the Value Pack.

Registration is open for RISE^® 2024 (Research, Innovation & Science for Engineered Fabrics). Industry leaders will convene to discover cutting-edge nonwoven research and advancements, October 1-2, James B. Hunt, Jr. Library, North Carolina State University, Raleigh, NC. The theme for this year’s event is “Sustainability Solutions: Manufacturing More with Less.”

The RISE program will focus on these key topics:

• Disruptive Innovation & Enabling Technology
• Advancements in Natural & Bio-Based Fibers
• Sustainability in Chemistry
• Energy Efficiencies in Machinery
• Advanced Recycling Techniques & Methods
• In the News: Legislation & Regulation

Prior to RISE, continuing the program begun last year, there will be complimentary webinars featuring technology advancements and innovations. More details and topics will be announced at a later date.

The program highlights for RISE include:

• RISE^® Innovation Award – three finalists will compete for the Award with the winner being announced Wednesday afternoon, October 2nd. Nominations may be submitted through July 29th via the INDA website: https://www.inda.org/awards/rise-innovation-award.html
• The Nonwovens Institute will host a tour of their $65 million-plus, 60,000 square-foot facilities featuring state-of-the-art equipment, pilot lines, and analytical laboratories on Tuesday, October 1st. An RSVP is required and space is limited.
• A Welcome Reception on Tuesday evening, October 1st, at the Lonnie Poole Golf Course.
• Graduate Student Poster session with their latest research during the Welcome Reception.
• New to RISE: Nonwoven Bonding Fundamentals course which will provide a detailed overview of the major fabric bonding processes used to make nonwovens. More details are available here: https://www.inda.org/training/advanced-training.php
• 18-hole Golf Tournament, Monday, September 30th, Lonnie Poole Golf Course, with a start time of 12 pm. Space is limited and registration is required.

Lenzing Group announces the appointment of Kit Ping Au-Yeung as the Executive Vice President of Commercial Textiles with immediate effect. This strategic leadership appointment highlights Lenzing’s commitment to strengthen its integral leadership roles and fuel the growth of its core textile businesses. Kit Ping succeeds Florian Heubrandner, who will take on a new role as Executive Vice President of Filament to reinforce the expansion of Lenzing’s global filament business.

In her new role, Kit Ping will be leading the expansion strategy and development of Lenzing’s textiles business, which comprises of fiber offerings under the flagship TENCEL™ and LENZING™ ECOVERO™ brands. With decades of experience working with partners across the textile value chain, Kit Ping will continue to foster the development of Lenzing’s textile business through driving innovative fiber and application solutions for customers, and ultimately bring benefits to consumers. Prior to joining Lenzing, Kit Ping held several regional and global commercial and operational leadership roles at Coats Group, as well as more recently at Amann Group. Her experience will add value to Lenzing’s core business, affirming Lenzing’s dedication to driving a positive impact across the industry ecosystem.

From 1 July 2024 onward, Florian Heubrandner will focus on driving the strategy and expansion of Lenzing’s filament business with his established expertise in the value chain. He will work alongside Lenzing’s Research and Development and Engineering teams to establish filament as a separate business with a strong focus on innovation and growth.

The current European Football Championships 2024 in Germany will be played on natural turf, which is very costly to maintain, does not tolerate high frequency of use and has a limited service life of only 6 months in some cases. Artificial turf is easier to maintain and correspondingly popular. In Germany, there are estimated to be more than 5,000 artificial turf pitches and as many as 25,500 across the EU. The drawback: the enormous annual emission of microplastics in the form of infill material, the high CO2 impact and the not environmentally friendly disposal. Researchers in Aachen presented a sustainable alternative: BioTurf is a new artificial turf system made from bio-based polymers that no longer requires polymer infill material!

"Every year, around 500 kilograms of plastic granules are produced per artificial turf pitch, which have to be refilled as infill. This also corresponds to the amount that potentially enters the environment as microplastics per sports pitch," explains Dr Claudia Post from TFI. With an estimated 25,000 artificial turf pitches in the EU, artificial turf in Europe alone produces 12,750 tonnes of microplastics that end up in the environment every year! The TFI - Institut für Bodensysteme an der RWTH Aachen e.V., Institute for Research, Testing and Certification in Europe for Indoor Building Products, has developed the innovative artificial turf system together with the ITA (Institute for Textile Technology at RWTH Aachen University) and in collaboration with the company Morton Extrusionstechnik (MET), a specialist in artificial turf fibres.

"New artificial turf pitches will be phased out by 2031 at the latest due to the ban on plastic granules. Even now, artificial turf pitches with infill material are no longer being subsidised," says Dr Claudia Post. For grassroots sports, clubs, cities and local authorities, converting their existing artificial turf pitches will be a mammoth task in the coming years, as artificial turf pitches have to be replaced every 10-15 years. With BioTurf, an environmentally friendly alternative is now available! The surface can be played on like any other, whether running, passing or kicking. Short, heavily crimped blades support longer blades and this simple approach increases playing comfort. BioTurf fulfils all quality requirements and standards for the highest footballing demands.

"BioTurf is an innovative, holistic solution," emphasises Dirk Hanuschik from TFI. "We use rapeseed oil and agricultural waste that does not compete with food production. BioTurf is also almost completely recyclable".
This is in stark contrast to conventional artificial turf, which can currently only be thermally utilised, i.e. burned to generate heat.

As BioTurf does not require the traditional latex process at all, the energy-intensive drying process can be dispensed with, which has a positive effect on the price. Latex is also difficult to recycle. In contrast, BioTurf uses the new thermobonding technology. Here, the thermoplastic pile yarns are thermally fused to the backing. Further development steps still need to be taken in the endeavour to develop a 100% mono-material artificial turf, as a few percent polypropylene still needs to be processed in the backing in addition to the polyethylene fibre material in order to protect it during thermobonding. However, this does not hinder its recyclability.

The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) are coordinating the research project, which is funded as part of the European Union's Horizon Europe research and innovation program. The aim of BioFibreLoop is to develop recyclable outdoor and work clothing made from renewable bio-based materials. The kick-off event took place in Denkendorf on June 26 and 27, 2024.

The textile industry is facing two challenges: on the one hand, production must become more sustainable and environmentally friendly and, on the other, consumers are expecting more and more smart functions from clothing.

In addition, the production of functional textiles often involves the use of chemicals that are harmful to the environment and health and make subsequent recycling more difficult.

Intelligent innovations must therefore ensure that harmful chemicals are replaced, water is saved and more durable, recyclable bio-based materials are used, thereby reducing the usually considerable carbon footprint of textile products. Digitalized processes are intended to ensure greater efficiency and a closed cycle.

For example, the BioFibreLoop project uses laser technology to imitate natural structures in order to produce garments with water and oil-repellent, self-cleaning and antibacterial properties. At the end result of the research work will be affordable, resource and environmentally friendly, yet high-performance and durable fibers and textiles made from renewable sources such as lignin, cellulose and polylactic acid will be available. All processes are aimed at a circular economy with comprehensive recycling and virtually waste-free functionalization based on nature's example. In this way, greenhouse gas emissions could be reduced by 20 percent by 2035.

The technology for the functionalization and recycling of bio-based materials is being developed in three industrial demonstration projects in Austria, the Czech Republic and Germany. At the end of the project, a patented circular, sustainable and reliable process for the production of recyclable functional textiles will be established.

The BioFibreLoop project has a duration of 42 months and a total budget of almost 7 million euros, with 1.5 million going to the coordinator DITF.

The consortium consists of 13 partners from nine countries who contribute expertise and resources from science and industry:

• German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF), Coordinator, Germany
• Next Technology Tecnotessile Società nazionale di ricerca R. L., Italy
• Centre Technologique ALPhANOV, France
• G. Knopf’s Sohn GmbH & Co. KG, Germany
• FreyZein Urban Outdoor GmbH, Austria
• BEES - BE Engineers for Society, Italy
• BAT Graphics Vernitech, France
• Interuniversitair Micro-Electronica Centrum, Belgium
• Idener Research & Development Agrupacion de Interes Economico, Spain
• Teknologian tutkimuskeskus VTT Oy, Finland
• Det Nationale Forskningscenter for Arbejdsmiljø, Denmark
• Steinbeis Innovation gGmbH, Germany
• NIL Textile SRO, Czech Republic

The Supervisory Board of Lenzing Group has appointed Rohit Aggarwal as a new member of the Management Board of Lenzing Group. He will assume responsibility for the fiber division during the third quarter. After the departure of Stephan Sielaff, Aggarwal will take over the position of CEO of Lenzing Group.

Rohit Aggarwal has a sound understanding of the strategic development of international markets and the establishment of efficient management teams through global management positions in Europe, the USA and Asia. Thanks to his experience in the global textile and fiber market, he is well versed with Lenzing's core business in all its facets, both in terms of content and geography.

Stephan Sielaff, CEO of Lenzing Group, will leave the company at the latest when his contract expires at the end of March 2025 and devote himself to new tasks.