From the Sector

In cotton cultivation, soil quality and the associated fertility and health of the soil play a key role. For this reason, the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC) in Washington has carried out an ambitious research project on this topic in collaboration with various international partner organisations – with promising results.

New and old methods
Soil health has long been the focus of agriculture and therefore also of cotton cultivation. The International Cotton Advisory Committee has repeatedly emphasised the importance of soil health for cotton farming in the past. The focus was particularly on the situation in developing countries, where yields are still low compared to those in developed countries. An ICAC team has now developed a special programme to improve soil health, based on studies by international research teams and practical experience. The aim is to help cotton producers to achieve better, higher quality crop yields in healthy soil and, at the same time, contribute to climate protection with traditional, sustainable agricultural methods for soil cultivation that have been used for years. Valuable biomaterials are produced using various composting and fermentation methods.

The building blocks of soil improvement
Biochar, bokashi and jeevamrit are important components of proven methods for soil improvement. All three are seen as beneficial products for promoting sustainable agricultural practices. They are inexpensive to produce and, when combined and mixed, they offer effective solutions for restoring degraded, i.e. quality-reduced soils of varying consistency. This is a constant challenge, especially in African regions.

Biochar
Following the recommendations of the ICAC, biochar is produced using the ‘Cone Pit Open-Earth Kiln’ technique. This involves burning the cotton stalks left over from the harvest.
The production of biochar is rooted in history: evidence shows that indigenous peoples in the Amazon used a form called ‘terra preta’ to enrich the soil over 1,000 years ago. In modern-day agriculture, the use of biochar has been rapidly gaining momentum over the last ten years. Africa in particular has seen a significant increase. The ICAC team discovered that biochar is particularly useful for improving acidic soils due to its high pH value (8.0 to 11.0). However, in neutral and alkaline soils, biochar can increase the pH of the soil, potentially leading to lower yields. To counteract this, the ICAC team recommends mixing biochar with bokashi compost.

Bokashi
Bokashi is a type of compost originating from Japan that is traditionally produced through a fermentation process using kitchen waste, agricultural residues and effective microorganisms. Bokashi has a highly acidic pH value of 3.5, which makes it an ideal material for balancing the alkalinity of biochar. According to the ICAC, combining biochar with bokashi compost in the right ratios can result in a balanced soil pH of around 6.5, which is ideal for most plants. This method not only neutralises the pH value of the biochar, but also provides essential nutrients for soil organisms and plants.

Jeevamrit
To further improve soil quality where necessary, the ICAC team introduced jeevamrit. Jeevamrit is a traditional Indian method that provides soils with a variety of microorganisms. The production of jeevamrit, which involves processing cow dung and sugarcane molasses, provides a rich source of beneficial microbes that improve nutrient availability and promote soil regeneration.

When biochar, bokashi and jeevamrit are combined, they form the basis for regenerative agriculture. Studies show that biochar improves soil structure, bokashi provides nutrients and jeevamrit promotes microbial diversity, leading to healthier soils, increased productivity and sustainability in agriculture.

Training initiatives promote knowledge
Over the past three years, training courses on regenerative agriculture have been held in Africa, India and Bangladesh. A total of 16 organisations were involved. The training focused on three main technologies: bokashi composting, the ICAC practices for biochar production and jeevamrit for inoculating soils with a variety of soil microbes. The programmes have made the production techniques accessible to smallholder farmers in particular, leading to widespread adoption and improved soil quality.

Thermore prepares for next phase of growth into the end-consumer market: Thermore, an Italian manufacturing firm and leader in sustainable synthetic insulation, welcomes Laura Beachy as Vice President of Global Marketing and Communications. Beachy joins Thermore from Hyla Strategies, a NYC-based boutique marketing firm, where she served as a Managing Partner since 2014. Over the past decade, she has guided a diverse portfolio ranging from Shark Tank startups to Fortune 500 companies. Beachy’s understanding of sustainability, passion for the outdoors, and proven track record of success makes her poised to amplify Thermore’s brand story and drive its mission to new heights.

In the outdoor industry, Beachy’s consumer-facing knowledge has supported iconic brands like Xero Shoes, Oiselle, HOKA, Altra, and Kinetic. Her strategies have driven measurable growth—transforming online communities into buyers.

Beachy’s leadership represents a significant step for Thermore as it makes its first foray into the end-consumer market. Beachy will lead Thermore’s efforts to enhance brand presence, driving customer engagement while continuing to innovate in B2B channels. Her in-depth experience of B2C consumer engagement in the outdoor industry and specialized marketing development work in B2B climate tech, positions her as the perfect leader to guide Thermore as it expands its influence into the consumer market.

EDANA, the global association serving the nonwovens and related industries, announced the upcoming FILTREX™ 2025 conference and tabletop exhibition. This premier event for filtration professionals will take place on 25-26 March 2025 at the Hilton Waterfront Hotel in Vienna, Austria.

FILTREX™ Europe serves as a pivotal platform, bringing together experts, technical specialists, and industry leaders from across the filtration supply chain. The two-day conference will focus on technological and sustainability innovations, aiming to enhance media and filter performance and highlight their role in reducing emissions. Attendees can look forward to a comprehensive program featuring presentations on the latest market trends, innovative filter materials, advancements in media design, and developments in air and liquid filtration.

The event will feature two renowned keynote speakers: Dr.-Ing. Frank Möbius, Senior Innovation Advisor at UnternehmerTUM, and Former Head of Technology Management and Forecast at BMW Group, sharing insights on open innovation, and Dr. Pero Mićić, Founder and CEO of FutureManagementGroup AG, discussing strategies to future-proof businesses.

Additionally, key industry leaders in the filtration industry from Ahlstrom, Freudenberg, and Hollingsworth & Vose will introduce pivotal topics during the roundtable discussions. Attendees will benefit from five focused sessions covering Trends and Technologies, Standards and Testing, Media Innovation, Sustainability, and PFAS-free advancements.

In conjunction with the conference, a tabletop exhibition will showcase cutting-edge products and services, providing delegates with valuable networking opportunities. The event will also feature the 4^th edition of the FILTREX™ Innovation Award, recognizing outstanding achievements in nonwoven-based filtration products. Last edition, HycuTEC (inline charging technology) by Oerlikon Nonwoven, won after receiving over one third of the votes. Companies interested in participating in the award competition are encouraged to review the eligibility criteria and submit their applications accordingly.

Registration for FILTREX™ Europe 2025 is now open. Delegates are encouraged to secure their tabletop spots promptly, as availability will be limited. For detailed information on registration fees, exhibition opportunities, and sponsorship packages, please visit the official event page.

International technology group ANDRITZ has received an engineering order from US textile recycling innovator Circ in anticipation of its first large-scale textile recycling plant. The plant will be the first to recover cotton and polyester from blended textile waste.

Circ® is a pioneering company focused on sustainable solutions for the fashion industry. By converting fashion waste into reusable raw materials for fabrics, Circ reduces the need for petroleum and natural resources. The company’s mission is to build a truly circular economy to protect the planet from the cost of clothing.

ANDRITZ has been successfully conducting trials for Circ at the ANDRITZ Fiber R&D Center in Springfield, Ohio, USA, for several years. The successful partnership and recent developments have led to the decision to expand this cooperation.

The majority of fashion waste consists of polyester-cotton blends, which poses a significant challenge to achieving greater circularity. In particular, the separation of cellulosic and synthetic fibers from textile waste has been a major obstacle. Circ’s innovative recycling process can break down polycotton textile waste into its original components – polyester and cotton. The forthcoming plant will process 200 tons of textile waste per day, allowing cotton to be recycled for lyocell production and polyester to be reused for polyester production. This will reduce the need for virgin raw materials.

Conor Hartman, Chief Operating Officer at Circ, says: “We remain excited about this continued collaboration with ANDRITZ. Together, we will commercialize Circ’s innovative recycling process and take another step towards a truly circular fashion industry. With its expertise in engineering and building large-scale process equipment, ANDRITZ is the right partner to help us transform textile waste into recycled fibers on an industrial level.

Michael Waupotitsch, Vice President Textile Recycling at ANDRITZ, comments: “We are eager to support Circ in their vision of circularity because the technology they have developed is uniquely suited to solve one of the biggest challenges in fashion waste and recycling. With our holistic knowledge in resizing, mechanical separation, hydrothermal processing, recovery of cellulosic pulp as well as pulp cleaning and pulp drying, we have the right expertise to help them achieve their goals. Our experience in process development and machinery will help bring their innovative recycling technology to life.”

The upcoming conference on 12-13 March 2025 in Cologne, Germany, will pave pathways to a sustainable textile industry.

Over the past few weeks, the Conference Advisory Board, and the experts from the nova-Institute, have thoroughly reviewed and evaluated over 40 submitted abstracts. The selected external experts bring new insights and perspectives from the pulp, fibre and further developing industries, promising to spark and deepen discussions at the event. Their expertise across the entire fibre value chain will enrich the topics covered and ensure a dynamic and insightful exchange of ideas. The presentations will provide a platform for the discussion at the conference after each session, and the Advisory Board members will foster a lively debate to drive innovation industry-wide.

Biosynthetics on the rise
Besides cellulose fibres, bio-based polymer fibres ("biosynthetics") are an excellent option to reduce fossil fibres in textiles. Biosynthetics offer a powerful alternative to traditional synthetic fibres, bringing both performance and technical properties that make them drop-in replacements. Derived wholly or partially from natural, renewable sources like lactic acids, sugar beet, sugarcane or wood, biosynthetics represent a bio-based option compared to fossil-based counterparts. In a special session “Biosynthetics - Replacing Traditional Synthetic Fibres”, experts will explore the latest advances, challenges and opportunities in the field. Discussing innovative approaches like biosynthetics is essential to drive sustainable transformation within the fashion and textile industries.

Fibre-to-Fibre Recycling: A Path to a Sustainable Textile Industry
The textile industry is at a crucial crossroad. The need for sustainable solutions to meet the EU's ambitious climate change targets is becoming increasingly urgent. Fibre-to-fibre recycling, which transforms discarded textiles into new, virgin fibres, holds great promise for reducing waste and resource consumption and helps to close the loop in textile production. While Europe has made progress in this area, challenges remain – in particular the management of mixed fibre textiles and the scaling up of recycling technologies. As new approaches are needed to tackle climate change, one session of the conference will focus on fibre-to-fibre recycling from textiles, exploring the latest innovations and technological advances, as well as the opportunities and barriers that need to be addressed to move the industry towards a circular, sustainable future.

Fibre Microplastic Formation versus Marine Biodegradability
The environmental impact of textiles extends far beyond landfill, with microplastics from synthetic fibres becoming a growing concern in marine ecosystems. A session at the conference will focus on the complex relationship between microplastic formation and marine biodegradability. While synthetic fibres shed microplastics during washing, these tiny particles, known as microfibres accumulate in the oceans and pose a serious threat to marine life. This session will explore the factors that influence fibre degradation in the marine environment and examine the potential of biodegradable fibres to reduce long-term pollution. Leading research institutes will discuss the challenges of balancing the prevention of microplastics with the development of fibres that can degrade naturally in marine ecosystems, and provide insights into innovative solutions that could help mitigate this pressing environmental issue.

Innovation Award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2025”
The nova-Institute, together with GIG Karasek, is looking for the best fibre innovations of the year. Applicants from the area of cellulose fibres as well as biosynthetics are welcome to submit their innovations. Technologie providers, research institutes or producers can apply until 30 November 2024. The innovation award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2025” is sponsored by GIG Karasek.

Apply for the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2025” award: cellulose-fibres.eu/award-application

Call for Posters
The poster exhibition is a highly anticipated scientific event at the conference, especially for early career scientists. Poster submission is open until 31 January 2025.

On November 20th/21st, 2024, the second conference on flame retardancy for composite applications took place in Berlin, organised by the AVK - Industrievereinigung Verstärkte Kunststoffe e.V. in cooperation with the FGK - Forschungsgesellschaft Kunststoffe e.V.

60 participants attended the international event, which this time focused on the requirements in the construction/infrastructure sector in addition to the transport sector.

In 14 presentations, 18 speakers provided information on new developments, requirements and innovations from the fields of standardisation, material development, construction/infrastructure, public transport, automotive and research & science.

Prof. Schartel from the Bundesanstalt für Materialforschung und –prüfung began with an introduction to the principle and concept of flame-retardant composites. In the following thematic blocks, the companies CTS Composite Technologie Systeme GmbH and Nabaltec AG provided information on new possibilities and developments at the material level of non-combustible fibre-reinforced plastics (FRP).

The implementation of fire protection requirements in the operation of rail vehicles or for load-bearing FRP components played a major role in the area of construction/infrastructure, as did the sustainability of these building materials, which Frank Lüders from DB Systemtechnik GmbH and Kabelan Thavayogarajah from Fraunhofer LBF reported on in their presentations.

The well-known topic of e-mobility took its place in the automotive sector, where Dr. Christian Battenberg from Clariant Plastics &Coatings (Deutschland) GmbH spoke about flame retardants for applications in this field.

The successful event was rounded off by the Research and Science block with two presentations by Fraunhofer LBF and Deutsches Textilforschungszentrum Nord-
West gGmbH & Centre for Nanointegration Duisburg-Essen.

Over the course of one and a half days, the conference provided an important platform for experts from industry and science to discuss the latest developments and challenges in the field of flame retardancy for composites. The high level of participation highlighted the relevance of the topic and underpinned the decision to organise a third round of the conference in 2026.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, and EDANA, the Voice of Nonwovens released the Global Nonwoven Markets Report, A Comprehensive Survey and Outlook, 2023–2028, it is now available for purchase through both INDA’s and EDANA’s websites.

This latest edition offers a comprehensive analysis of global nonwoven macro drivers, supply and demand trends, and an expanded regional trade section. The report forecasts a steady growth in demand for nonwovens across key sectors over the next five years.

Key Insights from the Report Include:

• Production Growth
  From 2013 to 2023, nonwoven production increased at an annual rate of 5.4%, with significant growth driven by the spunlaid and needlepunch processes.
• Regional Production
  China led global production growth, contributing an additional 4.5 million tonnes from 2013 to 2023—a remarkable 9.4% annual growth rate.
• End-Use Expansion
  Wipes, medical, and transportation segments experienced the fastest expansion among nonwoven end-use applications.

“The global nonwovens industry is changing in a positive way with moves toward innovation and sustainable products,” said the report’s co-authors Jacques Prigneaux, Market Analysis & Economic Affairs Director at EDANA and Mark Snider, Chief Market and Industry Analyst at INDA.

This report offers a detailed breakdown of regional demographics, production forecasts, technological advancements, and investment outlooks for North America, Greater Europe, Asia, and South America. Additionally, it includes an economic trade analysis, end-use segmentation, and insights into future industry trends.

“As strategic partners, INDA and EDANA are committed to sustained growth and innovation within the entire nonwovens supply chain. This report presents our collective best estimate on future demand, predicated on sound macro-economic analysis,” said INDA President Tony Fragnito. “This Global Nonwoven Markets Report is an essential planning resource for all those involved in strategic planning within the nonwovens supply chain.”

“The demand for reliable market information and forward-looking data is a vital ingredient for thriving a successful business. This new report, developed by our two leading nonwovens industry associations, draws on decades of experience, close observation, and direct data collection from hundreds of companies," stated EDANA General Manager Murat Dogru. "Created by the industry for the industry, it stands as a unique, authoritative, and reliable resource on nonwovens data than any other report.”

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited (IVL), a global sustainable chemical producer, posted a marked improvement in quarterly performance as the chemical industry struggles to recover from a prolonged downturn and the company’s management executes their 3 year IVL 2.0 strategy to enhance competitiveness and drive efficiencies.

Indorama Ventures reported Adjusted EBITDA  of $427 million in 3Q24, a gain of 32% YoY, supported by steady volumes, improving industry spreads, and the company’s unstinting focus on optimizing assets and reducing fixed costs. The quarter marks Indorama Ventures’ first YOY improvement for the year, with all three business segments recording earnings growth, following a prolonged industry downcycle marked by customer destocking and suppressed margins. Volumes remained steady for the Combined PET and Fibers segments, while Indovinya posted a robust performance amid a peak season in the Crop Solutions market.

Fibers reported Adjusted EBITDA of $48 million, a gain of 44% YoY, driven by improved industry spreads in Lifestyle and higher volumes in Mobility and Hygiene. Management is focused on reducing fixed costs and improving profitability across the entire portfolio and taking firm action to restore market share in key verticals.

Looking ahead, the global economic outlook remains uncertain amid continued inflation, geopolitical tension, and supply chain disruptions. However, throughout the downcycle, Indorama Ventures’ experienced management team has worked hard to optimize and deleverage the business under their IVL 2.0 evolved strategy to emerge stronger and drive enhanced earnings quality in a new era of sustainable profit growth. In 3Q24, this unrelenting focus delivered fixed-cost savings of $19 million, which will sequentially increase into next year as the benefits are fully realized. Operating rates for the group increased to 82% in the quarter—from 69% previously—as the company completed its planned optimization program for CPET and Indovinya, with Fibers under implementation.

The company’s digital transformation program is accelerating according to schedule following the implementation of the SAP S/4HANA ERP platform as a digital core. North America is already benefiting from an AI-based procurement solution, while the Connected Worker Platform is driving manufacturing excellence. The first sales and supply chain solutions are expected to go-live early next year.

Weak demand in some of their customer markets is increasingly hindering SGL Carbon's sales growth. After nine months in 2024, SGL Carbon generated sales of €781.9 million, which was slightly below the prior-year level at minus 4.8% (9M 2023: €821.7 million). Adjusted for currency and structural effects, Group sales decreased by 3.6%. Adjusted EBITDA, an important key figure for the Group, remained at a comparable level of €127.6 million in the reporting period (9M 2023: €130.0 million). Despite the slight decrease in sales, the adjusted EBITDA margin improved from 15.4% in Q1 and 16.7% in Q2 to 16.9% in Q3 and amounted to 16.3% after nine months (9M 2023: 15.8%). The reasons for the improved adjusted EBITDA margin are, in particular, product mix effects in the Graphite Solutions and Process Technology business units. By contrast, the ongoing weakness in demand and the associated price pressure for carbon and textile fiber products in the Carbon Fibers business unit continued to weigh on the Group's sales and earnings development.

“Even with our diversified product portfolio, we can no longer completely withdraw from the generally weak economic environment. In addition, there was a decline in demand for specialty graphite products for the semiconductor industry in the third quarter. In particular, our products for the manufacture of silicon carbide-based semiconductors are suffering from the restrained demand for electric vehicles on the customer side,” explains CEO Dr. Torsten Derr. “While the last 18 months were characterized by enormous demand for silicon carbide semiconductors and insufficient production capacities, the market has cooled down significantly. Due to a lack of demand from the automotive industry, our semiconductor customers have significantly reduced order volumes. We do not expect to see a significant upturn in demand for our specialty graphite products until the sales figures for electric vehicles pick up again.”

Based on the adjusted EBITDA of €127.6 million and taking into account depreciation and amortization of €41.0 million (9M 2023: €43.3 million) and one-off effects as well as non-recurring items of minus €18.3 million (9M 2023: minus €47.2 million), EBIT after nine months of 2024 will be €68.3 million (9M 2023: €39.5 million). The one-off effects and non-recurring items result, among other things, from the restructuring measures at Carbon Fibers and the Battery Solutions business line as well as from expenses for a strategy project. When comparing with the previous year, it should be noted that the first nine months of 2023 were disproportionately affected by an impairment loss on the assets of Carbon Fibers (€44.7 million).

Development of the business units
The Carbon Fibers business unit's sales for the first nine months of 2024 amounted to €157.1 million, significantly below the figure of €179.6 million for the prior-year period. The decline is due in particular to the continued weak demand from the wind industry and to the increasing competitive pressure resulting from global overcapacities for carbon and textile fibers.

Idle production capacities and the associated lack of fixed cost absorption as well as declining margins for commodity products led to a further deterioration in the adjusted EBITDA of the Carbon Fibers. The adjusted EBITDA of the Carbon Fibers business unit fell to minus €7.9 million in the first nine months of 2024 (9M 2023: €3.2 million). It should be noted that the adjusted EBITDA of the Carbon Fibers business unit includes an earnings contribution of €11.6 million from the joint venture BSCCB, which is accounted for At-Equity (9M 2023: €14.1 million). Excluding this contribution from the At-Equity accounted BSCCB, the adjusted EBITDA of Carbon Fibers would have been minus €19.6 million (9M 2023: minus €10.5 million).

SGL Carbon assumes that demand for carbon fibers will not recover in the coming months and that the realizable prices for these products will remain at a low level beyond 2025. Therefore, SGL Carbon anticipates that the expected improvement in sales and earnings for the Carbon Fibers segment will be delayed and is revising its existing mid-term planning for this segment. Due to the expected deviation, an ad hoc impairment test is currently being carried out. This indicates a non-cash impairment charge of €60–80 million, which will be recognized in Q4 2024. The structured transaction process initiated for Carbon Fibers is still ongoing.

Sales in the Composite Solutions business unit amounted to €95.8 million in the first nine months of 2024, down 16.2% (9M 2023: €114.3 million). The decline is due in particular to the early termination of a project-related supply contract with an automotive customer. Furthermore, the lower sales figures for electric vehicles are also having an impact on Composite Solutions.

Adjusted EBITDA in Composite Solutions fell from €16.6 million in the prior-year period to €10.7 million (minus 35.5%), due in particular to lower volumes. The adjusted EBITDA margin weakened accordingly to 11.2% (9M 2023: 14.5%).

Outlook
Macroeconomic conditions, lower than expected sales volumes in some customer groups and price pressure for commodity products are increasingly hindering SGL Carbon's growth ambitions. Thomas Dippold, CFO of SGL Carbon, explains: “Due to the diverse and diversified industrial applications of our products and our strict cost management, we continue to expect to achieve our guidance for 2024 at the lower end of the range of €160–170 million. The coming months will not be easier. We need to prepare for a flat demand development in some of our sales markets.”

Project Re:Claim, a joint venture between the Salvation Army Trading Company and Project Plan B, has been nominated for the Plastics Industry Awards 2024 in the "Recycler of the Year" category. Using an ISEC evo system from PURE LOOP to process used garments and other textiles, the project is Europe’s first polyester textile recycling system. The award ceremony will take place on 22 November in London.

The UK produces more than half a million tonnes of polyester textile waste every year. Project Re:Claim aims to recycle post-industrial and post-consumer clothing and textiles. The focus is on the recycling of post-industrial polyester from contract textiles for hospitals or hotels (e.g. bed and table linen), workwear and school uniforms, as well as promotional banners (e.g. printed sports banners). The fabrics and textiles come from controlled material streams (closed-loop systems), ensuring minimal impurities. The recycling technology used is an ISEC evo 302 E from PURE LOOP. This innovative technology, developed by the EREMA Group’s member, enables efficient production of high-quality rPET from textile waste.

Europe’s first polyester textile recycling system
The plant, installed at a Salvation Army Trading Company (SATCoL) processing centre in Kettering in early 2024, represents Europe’s first commercial scale polyester textile recycling system specialising in post-consumer polyester. SATCoL is the trading arm of The Salvation Army and UK’s largest charity owned textile collector.

Together with Project Plan B, a specialist in garment design with a focus on design for recycling, PURE LOOP optimised its integrated shredder-extruder combination ISEC evo for the specific requirements. "Plan B has a vision, and we are convinced something great can come out of it," emphasises Manfred Dobersberger, Managing Director at PURE LOOP. Thanks to the configuration of shredder and extruder on one drive shaft and the patented double feed ram system, the ISEC evo 302 E gently processes discarded polyester into rPET, which can be reused for new yarns and other products. "Up until now, polyester that had no useful life left would have been disposed of," explains Tim Cross, CEO of Project Plan B. "With the ISEC evo, we can now return textile waste as a valuable material back to the supply chains. It’s a carbon saving solution, and it plays a significant role in helping our collective journey to Net Zero."

Textile recycling: an industry with growth potential
The plant aims to recycle 2,500 tonnes of polyester in its first year, doubling this amount in the second year. In addition to the environmental benefits such as diverting unwearable textiles away from landfill, initial estimates indicate that the production of pellets from Project Re:Claim uses only one-tenth of the energy compared with pellets produced from virgin polyester. One prerequisite for this is an energy-efficient recycling machine such as the ISEC evo.