From the Sector

KARL MAYER launches its RE 4-1, a new Raschel machine for the efficient production of highly elastic textiles. With this newcomer, KARL MAYER is expanding its Elastomeric series and supplementing the established RE 4-1 as part of its two-product line strategy. With the price-performance ratio, the machine fulfils the requirements of the volume business in particular.

A 170″ version of the machine has already been on sale in China for several months. The pre-release got off to a successful start. Encouraged by the feedback from the market, KARL MAYER has developed an RE 4-1 with a working width of 190″ and will be offering both models to its global customers from middle of July 2024.

The RE 4-1 can be ordered with E 28 and E 32 gauges. The 170" version is also available with E 36. The standard equipment includes KAMCOS® 2, batching device 18 E, Carbon fibre technology and N-pattern drive for controlling the guide bars: stitch-forming GB 1 to GB 3 and inlayGB 4. There are also optional features, including sensors for measuring the yarn tension, laser stop, batching device 34 A, LED lighting and an installation kit.

With its technical configuration, the RE4-1 is optimised for the production of elastic and non-elastic standard fabrics, especially for the underwear sector. One of the top products of the Raschel machine with its high productivity and short amortisation time is elastic Power net. This open-meshed, airy fabric has become an indispensable part of the lingerie and clothing sector. It is often used in the wings of bras as well as for inserts in sports leggings, shirts, jackets and swimwear, where it provides delicate control and comfort. Power net can also be found in semi-technical applications, for example as outer and inner pockets for rucksacks and clothing.
In addition to Power net, Raschel Locknit, Sleek net and Satin net are also part of the production repertoire of RE 4-1. The fabrics with a decreasing density from Raschel Locknit to Satin net also play a role in underwear and clothing production. For their production, filament yarn is threaded in the front two guide bars and elastane in the back ones.

International technology group ANDRITZ has received an order from Sioen Technical Felts to supply a complete needlepunch line for its production plant in Liège, Belgium. The new line will enable Sioen to produce heavy fabrics in a single step.

Sioen’s Liège plant specializes in the production of technical fabrics used mainly in industrial applications such as pipe lining (CIPP), acoustics, and filtration. The ANDRITZ equipment will allow the customer to produce fabrics of more than 3,500 gsm in a single step, using different types of fibers (recycled PET, OxPan, bicomponent,…) and finenesses. Normally two or three layers have to be needled off-line in a second step to achieve such a fabric weight.

The single-step process results in a higher quality end product by minimizing the risk of delamination, i.e. the separation of layers during use. It also increases productivity by reducing the need for fabric handling.

The ANDRITZ DF-4 needleloom, which can operate in double and single stroke modus, gives Sioen high flexibility to process fabrics with different mechanical charasteristics. Operators can easily switch modes via the remote-control touch screen. The line will be equipped with ANDRITZ’s latest fabric weight profiling technology, ProWin™, to ensure maximum weight evenness.

Start-up of the new needlepunch line is scheduled for Q1 2025.

Mayer & Cie. presented an overview of its current portfolio in the circular knitting sector at the ITM in Istanbul. Two machine types – the SF4 3.2 III and the Relanit 3.2 HS II – and various smart solutions that make circular knitting more efficient were on display. knithawk, a tool for the optical detection of knitting defects, met with interest among the visitors. The same was true for knitlink, Mayer & Cie's hub for digital solutions. Spare parts packages and conversion kits are also in demand for the long-term value retention of Mayer & Cie. machines.

Relanit 3.2 HS II
The Relanit 3.2 HS mechanical single jersey machine offers high productivity, especially in the context of elastic plating. It processes a wide range of yarns and qualities reliably. It is suitable for processing recycled yarns. Their energy consumption is up to a third lower than that of a circular knitting machine with conventional technology.

In Istanbul, Mayer & Cie. presented an updated version of its flagship, the Relanit 3.2 HS II. The new open-width take down is the single component that attracted the most interest. It ensures a uniform pull-off tension of the knitted fabric over its entire circumference. The knitted hose is only opened below the take-down rollers. Furthermore, the take-dwon is equipped with two drives: one for tensioning, one for rewinding. Both can be controlled separately.

Another innovation of the Relanit 3.2 HS is aimed at reducing downtimes: The needle with predetermined breaking point, which was developed together with Groz-Beckert, prevents it from breaking uncontrollably and, in the worst case, breaking needle butt. The new spring sinker is also a joint development with Groz-Beckert. This makes the Relanit 3.2 HS II run more smoothly, produce less noise as well as with less wear and tear.

SF4-3.2 III for lightweight three-tread fleece knitted fabrics
With its SF4-3.2 III, Mayer & Cie. is addressing a trend in the clothing industry that is reflected beyond Turkey: lightweight, elastic three-thread knitted fabrics in both pure cotton and blends.

New Control 5.0 machine control system
Both ITM machine exhibits were on display with the new Control 5.0 machine control system. Control 5.0 is a prerequisite for using knitlink, the hub for Mayer & Cie's digital applications. In this function, the machine control system attracted interest from various large customers.

In the standard SmartControl version, as shown in Istanbul, a so-called Smart Knob is attached to each machine foot. From there, all the functions that the machine operator needs for his work are available. More in-depth settings, such as those made by the knitting manager, are only possible from a mobile device. Any number of Mayer & Cie. machines can be operated from this at the same time.

knithawk
knithawk, a tool for optical defect detection, inspects the knitted fabric as it is produced. It sits in the single jersey machine directly at the knitting point. If knithawk detects a serious or recurring error, the machine is stopped. The tool also creates an error log.

Machine-specific upgrade and conversion kits
With its upgrade kits, Mayer & Cie. brings technological innovations to existing machines. These range from machine-specific upgrades, such as the Performance Kit for existing Relanit 3.2 models to the Senso Blue RS lubrication system.

In addition to the upgrade kits, Mayer & Cie. offers conversion kits for popular machine types. Two are currently available: for the MV4 3.2 II/MBF 3.2 and the S4-3.2 II/ SF4-3.2 III.

Tintoria Finissaggio 2000 is one of the most important Italian companies in the textile finishing sector. Founded in 1973 in Masserano in the textile district of Biella, the company offers the complete range of dyeing of all types of fibres, finishing, digital printing, lamination and membrane lining. These processes are used to give fabrics certain properties, such as colour, pattern, softness, shine or waterproofness.

At Tintoria Finissaggio 2000, customers benefit from the fact that all processes are handled under one roof, from design support to the finishing of fabrics, combining decades of experience with the new possibilities of lamination and digital printing. The dyeing plant in Masserano is a state-of-the-art facility that fulfils the strictest environmental standards. In general, Tintoria Finissaggio 2000 continuously invests in state-of-the-art technologies and production facilities in order to achieve high-quality results while ensuring sustainable production processes.

Tintoria Finissagio 2000 also focused on innovation when equipping a new stenter frame. The company opted for the latest development from German machine manufacturer Mahlo GmbH + Co. KG: the Orthopac RXVMC-20 automatic straightening system. The new straightening concept is specially designed for processing textiles with high distortion dynamics, i.e. textiles with highly variable distortion. Two individually controlled and driven straightening modules with a total of three bow and four skew rollers ensure that bow and skew distortions are corrected in small steps. The control concept is also new. A scanner group at the infeed of the straightener detects distortions even before they reach the correction rollers. This means that the rollers are brought directly into position and the fabric is corrected from the very first centimetre. A scanner group at the outfeed also recognises any residual distortion, which is then corrected on the second straightening module.

SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan will participate in the ITM 2024 International Textile Machinery Exhibition in Istanbul, Türkiye from 4th to 8th June 2024 with a full product lineup.

WHOLEGARMENT® knitting has recently gained heavy interest from the apparel industry due to the shrinking workforce of skilled sewing and linking personnel, as well as for its sustainable benefits by requiring the minimum amount of material to produce one item at a time. SHIMA SEIKI intends to gain even more interest with its new SWG-XR® flagship machine. SWG-XR® features the company's original SlideNeedle™on 4 needle beds for high quality production of WHOLEGARMENT® products using all needles, in addition to a re-designed sinker system and a compact, light-weight carriage featuring 4 systems as well as auto yarn carriers. All contribute to increased productivity as well as increased product range using a wider variety of yarn for supporting knits for all seasons, and higher quality for knitting beautiful fabrics and silhouettes; even items that were impossible to knit before, including punch-lace patterns, variable stitch knitting and intarsia knitting. Setting new standards for the next generation of waste-free, sustainable WHOLEGARMENT® knitting, SWG-XR® at ITM will be shown in 15L. The MACH2®XS WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine, also with original SlideNeedle™ on four needle beds, will be shown in 8L. Other WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machines include the MACH2®VS V-bed machine for producing WHOLEGARMENT® items using every other needle, shown in 8 and 18 gauges, as well as the compact SWG®091N2 for producing smaller WHOLEGARMENT® items and accessories, to be shown in 10 gauge. An economical proposal in V-bed WHOLEGARMENT® knitting will also be introduced in the form of the N.SVR®183 machine in 24 gauge.

SHIMA SEIKI’s technology in computerized shaped knitting is represented by its N.SVR®122 computerized flat knitting machine in 14 gauge, and features such innovations as the R2CARRIAGE®, WideGauge® knitting, spring-type moveable sinkers, DSCS® Digital Stitch Control System, stitch presser, yarn gripper and cutter, and takedown comb. Also on display will be the SCG®122SN coarse gauge machine in 3 gauge. Automatic seamless glove knitting machines will also be present, including the SFG®20 21-gauge machine, and SFG®-I in 10 gauge.

On the software side, demonstrations will be performed on SHIMA SEIKI’s SDS®-ONE APEX4 design system and APEXFiz® subscription-based design software. Each provides comprehensive support throughout the production supply chain, integrating production into one smooth and efficient workflow from yarn development, product planning and design, to production and even sales promotion. Especially effective is the way the design evaluation process is improved with ultra-realistic simulation capability, whereby virtual samples replace physical sampling, consequently reducing time, cost and material that otherwise go to waste. Digital prototyping using virtual samples on SDS®-ONE APEX4 and APEXFiz® help to digitally transform the fashion supply chain for realizing sustainable manufacturing. SHIMA KnitManager™ knit production management software will also be shown to demonstrate solutions for maximizing productivity through monitoring of machine status and production progress.

North Carolina State University’s Wilson College of Textiles has been making inroads challenging the conventional pad finishing process and significantly reducing its environmental footprint in collaboration with Baldwin Technology Inc. Front and center in its finishing lab is Baldwin’s TexCoat G4™ digital finishing system.
 
For nearly 125 years, the Wilson College of Textiles has been a hub of innovation and learning, transforming students into experts in the world of textiles. As the textile industry grapples with sustainability challenges, the college has embraced new technologies and innovations to address the issue head-on.
 
At the forefront of this transformation is the Zeis Textiles Extension for Economic Development, an arm of Wilson College which serves the textile industry’s prototyping and pilot production needs in its five laboratories – spun yarn, knitting, weaving, dyeing and finishing, and physical testing. Collaborations with various textile companies have allowed the university to foster industry partnerships that bring forth groundbreaking ideas.
 
The partnership with Baldwin Technology marks a major milestone for the Raleigh, North Carolina-based college’s efforts to contribute to a more sustainable tomorrow.
 
To tackle the longstanding challenges of unsustainable fashion, NC State has taken the lead in demonstrating to students and industry the transition from the traditional pad finishing process to Baldwin’s TexCoat™ G4 system. It offers an innovative “non-contact” precision spray that significantly reduces water consumption, energy usage and chemical waste.
 
“Instead of needing to take the fabric, dip it into a bath to saturate it, squeeze the excess, dry and cure it, you can now precisely add the exact amount of finish you need on the fabric,” explained Rick Stanford, Baldwin's VP Global Business Development of Textiles. “The TexCoat™ G4 system will reduce the amount of pick-up that’s required to carry the chemical onto the fabric. This will also take a lot less energy to dry the fabric, increasing production speeds.”
 
The adoption of the TexCoat™ G4 system signals a new era for the college, allowing students to actively participate in shaping a sustainable future for the textiles industry. In the global effort to protect the planet and its resources, NC State's Wilson College of Textiles is at the forefront, preparing the next generation of professionals to be the leaders of the sustainable textile movement.

Stratasys Ltd. announced the launch of its Direct-to-Garment (D2G) solution for the J850 TechStyle™ printer, the newest offering in the Stratasys 3DFashion™ direct-to-textile printing technology. The first example of its application is an Urban Tattoo denim collection which will be revealed at the Texprocess exhibition in Frankfurt, Germany on April 23.

The D2G solution is ideal for customization and personalization by enabling the application of full color multi-material 3D print directly on fully assembled garments of various fabric types including denim, cotton, polyester, and linen. It allows fashion brands to facilitate personalized and bespoke designs for customers, including the ability to tailor 3D prints according to individual preferences, sizes, and styles.  

Available in two sizes, the D2G tray kits facilitate the personalization of garments ranging from jeans to jackets, enabling designers and manufacturers to adopt more sustainable practices by reducing material waste. The seamless workflow delivers ease of calibration and compatibility with various garment sizes, streamlining the production process and fostering the creation of unique, personalized apparel.

Demonstrating this innovation, the Urban Tattoo collection showcases the potential and the ease of direct-to-garment 3D printing. Working with noted designers Karim Rashid, Travis Fitch, Zlatko Yanakiev at Meshroom along with Foraeva Studio, this collection shows the transformation of ordinary garments into pieces of wearable art, imbuing them with personal identity and meaning.

Like body tattoos, Urban Tattoos promote a deeper emotional connection, encouraging the upcycling of existing garments and contributing to a more sustainable fashion ecosystem. This aligns with Stratasys’ strategy for Mindful Manufacturing™. Stratasys has been able to create a new collection that will appeal to multiple brands that reach across diverse socio-economic backgrounds.

Cavitec, part of Santex Rimar Group, presents the redesigned Caviscreen at Techtextil Frankfurt. Caviscreen features latest technology for breathable laminates.

Caviscreen was developed as a hotmelt coating and laminating unit for breathable sportswear, rainwear and protective clothing – with and without applying a membrane. The redesigned machine shows a brand-new method to supply adhesive more evenly and precisely. Using PUR adhesive (polyurethane reactive adhesive) goes with additional benefits like strong bonding capabilities and versatility.

Caviscreen’s hotmelt screen printing is a special system for high-end application garments. With this Caviscreen system, a PUR adhesive is transferred onto the substrate through a rotary screen, similar to the well-established textile printing method. The adhesives are fed from the drum melter through a heated hose to the traversing adhesive distribution system inside the rotary screen, just behind the doctor blade.

The adhesive is pressed by the doctor blade through the screen holes and transferred to the substrate. Different dot pattern (mesh or irregularly) and different screen thicknesses allow different coating weight and adhesive coverages.

The traversing adhesive dispenser is used to distribute the adhesive automatically over the set working width that – an additional technical benefit – can be set without any mechanical changes.

Cavitec’s screen coating system achieves high bonding strength while using less adhesive than other coating processes, because of applying the coating on the surface of the substrate and like this, the adhesive has less tendency to penetrate the substrate.

Bonding strength, softness of the fabric and the breathability are defined by the coating weight and the coverage. The rotary screen allows users to regulate and adapt the coverage respectively the coating weight. Cavitec offers a large selection of screens that are essential to fulfil the fabric requirements. A further advantage is the ease and efficiency of switching from one screen to another by simply unlocking the bayonet fitting. The IR-heater cover opens pneumatically and the lightweight screen can be easily removed by hand. Unlike with other methods, there's no need to deal with hot oil or any other heated liquid that requires cooling down.

The Caviscreen technology supports manufacturers by reducing costs with screens priced at a mere fraction, just 10%, of common gravure roller prices.

SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan, will together with its Brazilian representative BRASTEMA TECNOLOGIA TEXTIL LTDA. participate in the FIMEC 2024 47th International Fair of Leather, Chemicals, Components, Machines and Equipment for Footwear and Tanneries in Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil from 12th - 14th March 2024.

FIMEC offers the opportunity to reach out to the Brazilian shoe manufacturing industry with proposals for flat knitted fabrics as an alternative to conventional leather. Since participating in FIMEC over the years, SHIMA SEIKI has steadily expanded its market for shoe-upper knitting machines in Brazil. It will be showcasing its latest computerized flat knitting technology to demonstrate how they apply to footwear and other sportswear as well.

The company is showing its new SWG-XR® WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine for the first time in Brazil. SWG-XR® features 4 needle beds and SHIMA SEIKI’s original SlideNeedle™, capable of producing high-quality fine gauge WHOLEGARMENT® products in all needles, and will be knitting WHOLEGARMENT® sportswear at FIMEC. For conventional shaped knitting, the compact SVR®093 machine with a short knitting width is specially developed for knitting shoe uppers, while the workhorse N.SSR®112 shaping machine features the latest garment knitting technology in an economical yet reliable package.
Both SVR®093 and N.SSR®112 will be knitting shoe uppers at FIMEC while utilizing the R2CARRIAGE®, WideGauge® knitting, spring-type moveable sinker, DSCS® Digital Stitch Control System, stitch presser, yarn gripper and cutter, and takedown comb. The classic SFG® seamless glove knitting machine will be knitting safety-oriented work gloves to round out SHIMA SEIKI’s multi-faceted display.

SHIMA SEIKI’s SDS®-ONE APEX4 3D design system will also be available for demonstrations in design
and simulation suited to shoe production.

At the end of last year, KARL MAYER launched the TM 4 EL – a new, highly flexible machine for the mid-range segment in the four-bar tricot machine sector. The machine produces fabrics for upholstery, automotive interiors and outerwear, as well as sportswear items and home textiles.

Featuring KARL MAYER’s proven CFRP technology, the TM 4 EL is up to 30% faster than the previous four-bar tricot machine designed for the commodity sector.

The new TM 4 EL is offered in gauges E 28 and E 32. The available working widths are 210” and 280”, with a working width extension also available. Further width varieties are also planned. Equipment highlights include an integrated Laser Stop to detect yarn breakages early, and functional LED lighting, which illuminates the warp knitting area for easy handling and signals unplanned machine stops using the corresponding colour. The machine can be networked with KM.ON’s secure cloud via the k.ey device to utilise the KARL MAYER GROUP’s digital solutions. This includes, for example, the web-based lapping editor CORE LITE.