From the Sector

Cascale (formerly the Sustainable Apparel Coalition) will host Manufacturer Forum: Shanghai on June 28, part of an annual series of events designed to amplify the voices of manufacturers around the globe. Featuring targeted programming designed to address local challenges faced by manufacturers, the event will highlight solutions provided by Cascale’s Higg Index suite of tools and growing list of impact initiatives. The event takes place at the Shanghai New International Expo Center in collaboration with ISPO Shanghai, the multi-segment summer trade show.

Following successful runs in Bangalore, Dhaka, and Shenzhen, Manufacturer Forum: Shanghai will further facilitate pre-competitive collaboration in order to share best practices and collectively address critical challenges. Keynote speakers include Colin Browne, the organization’s newly-appointed CEO, and Scott Raskin, CEO of Worldly, Cascale’s technology partner and event sponsor.

Reflecting “Catalyst for Change,” the current theme of Cascale’s Manufacturer Forum series, the Shanghai event reinforces the organization’s commitment to support an open exchange between manufacturers and better understand their needs and ongoing challenges to jointly develop solutions.

Over 200 attendees are expected to attend the event, which brings together manufacturers with business leaders and critical stakeholders. Programming will cover a wide range of topics, including what manufacturers need to know about global policy, how strategic partnerships can drive industry change, the evolution of Higg FEM and verification processes, and the latest on decarbonization impacts. To aid goal and target-setting, there will also be dedicated training on setting Science-Based Targets for decarbonization, as part of an evolving and interactive program.

The Fashion for Good Museum publishes its legacy document. The report was prompted by the museum’s closure on June 5th, 2024. It represents the museum’s mission, summarising invaluable insights gathered over six years and key results such as reaching 115.000 visitors and creating a dedicated community of more than 250.000 followers online. Committed to transparency and collaboration, Fashion for Good shares its reflections, tools, and transferable learnings, as well as the future of its collections and next steps, continuing to inspire positive change within the fashion ecosystem. All information can be accessed on the Fashion for Good website for continued use and benefit of educators, the cultural sector, and the wider public.

Looking back on its journey, the Fashion for Good Museum celebrates achievements such as hosting 115.000 visitors, including 8.000 students from 200 schools, curating 13 exhibitions, offering over 75 events, launching 4 educational programmes, reaching both current and future generations, and inspiring many to drive change in the fashion industry. With an earned media value of over 46 million Euros through press coverage since 2017, Fashion for Good's influence has been significant, evident in its 250.000 social media followers and 15.000 newsletter subscribers.

The report fulfils the promise Fashion for Good made in 2017 – to share their journey, learnings, and most impactful activities with the world. Within these pages, readers will discover reflections on their messaging, insights about creative partnerships with entities such as Lowlands Festival, Dutch Design Week, and Museumnacht to case studies of pioneering exhibitions. Their programming was created around themes and topics, such as the untold stories around cotton, circularity, and the future of biomaterials to educate and inspire visitors, ultimately empowering them to take action themselves.

Reflecting on the output of the museum during its short existence, as well as its footprint and wide reach, while acknowledging the challenges encountered during its establishment and development, Fashion for Good distilled six key lessons from Fashion for Good's sustainable museum practices:

• Recognition of Broader Shift: There is a wider movement towards sustainability in the museum sector, exemplified by Fashion for Good and the new ICOM definition.
• Storytelling for Societal Change: Cultural institutions are crucial in driving societal change in fashion consumption through storytelling.
• Innovation through Limitations: Embracing organisational limitations can stimulate innovation in museum collection management and education.
• Audience Engagement: Understanding and expanding the core audience is essential for effective engagement in sustainability initiatives.
• Measuring Impact: It's challenging to measure impact for organisations with social missions, requiring clear success criteria.
• Establishing a Sustainability Framework: Defining sustainability within context is fundamental for organisational sustainability efforts.

In-store Asia, a trade fair for retail resources and investments in store design, visual merchandising and in-store marketing on the Indian subcontinent will again be held in Mumbai from 13 to 15 June 2024. Over the course of the 15 years of its existence it has become established as the biggest get-together of retail decision-makers in India. Here, over 4,500 players from retail, consulting and services, manufacturers as well as retail solution providers come together.

Visitors to In-store Asia have the opportunity to discover a wide variety of exhibitors showcasing their products and solutions for the retail sectors including:

• Point-of-Purchase (POP) displays and interactive flatscreens
• Visual Merchandising (VM) and store fittings
• Signage and graphic design solutions
• Retail technologies for improving customer retention
• Tailor-made store design services
• Start-up initiatives for the retail sector

The 2-day conference at In-store Asia provides a platform for discussions about current retail trends in India and the world over. More than 40 key speakers from India and abroad will share their forecasts, latest trends and use cases on the topics of retail markets, retail experience design, sustainability, visual merchandising, retail technology and store fitting under the inspiring motto “Connected, Collaborative, Conscious”.

Highlights at the trade fair amongst others include the VM&RD Retail Design Awards and the VM Challenge, two events that honour special achievements and innovations in visual merchandising and store fitting. The VM&RD Retail Design Awards acknowledge outstanding store fitting projects in a total of 24 categories. The VM Challenge is a unique live window display contest for the visual merchandising community where six teams compete to dress a window on a given theme.

Devan Chemicals launched its latest textile finishing technology “Devan Stain Release”, that ensures that both water and oil based stains can easily be washed off.

Devan ‘s new release finish prevents water and oil based stains such as ketchup, mud, grass, tea, vegetable and corn oils from adhering deeply to the fibres and allows stains to be washed off easily from the surface. The technology combines both stain release and wicking properties, fitting for applications where this dual benefit is required. This technology is PFC-free and has 40% of bio-based content. Unlike many PFC-based solutions that require mixing of multiple products, Devan Stain Release is an easy to apply and ready-to-use product that doesn’t necessitate mixing of different products. The finish doesn’t require reactivation after washing at home with high temperature. Soft handle is maintained.

Devan Stain Release is applicable across a wide range of textile applications, including school uniforms, garments, workwear, apparel, home textiles, bedding accessories and mattress ticking. The technology enhances the longevity of fabrics by reducing the need for frequent washing, ultimately contributing to a more sustainable consumption cycle.

From 6 – 8 March 2024, over 330 exhibitors from seven countries and regions will convene at of Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Spring Edition to highlight a variety of home textile products. Buyers will be able to source the latest bedding, duvets, pillows, towels, carpets, rugs and many more.

Highlighted exhibitors

• Bedding – GSI Creos Corporation, Jjiangyin Hongliu Bedsheet Co Ltd, Zhejiang Eider Warmth New Material Co Ltd
• Down – Anhui Million Feather Co Ltd, Hangzhou Gaga Home Textiles Co Ltd, Shanghai Donglong Home Textile Products Co Ltd
• Functional pillow & mattress – Changshu Dafa Warp Knitting Co Ltd, Chuzhou Bray Smart Home Appliances Co Ltd, Zhangjiagang Coolest Life Technology
• Floor – Amore Textile (Suzhou) Co Ltd, Jingyi Fur Products Co Ltd, Shaoxing Jiaohui Home Textile Co Ltd
• Quilt fillings – Pujiang Boyue Home Textile Co Ltd, Pujiang Huayu Hometextile Co Ltd
• Textile design – Tela’s Design Lda
• Towelling – Nantong Dadong Co Ltd, Sunvim Group Co Ltd
• Loungewear & bath – Suzhou Huazhong Knitting Co Ltd, Zhejiang Demu Textile Technology Co Ltd
• Upholstery fabrics – Changshu Xinghan Hometextiles Co Ltd, Jiangsu First Home Textile Co Ltd, Shaoxing Chengchong Imp & Exp Co Ltd
• Home textile technologies – Nantong Mingxing Science & Technology Development Co Ltd, Sichuan Chnki Sewing Machine Co Ltd

Fringe programme
Complementing the exhibitor lineup, Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles will feature events to keep attendees up-to-date with emerging developments, trends, and important intuition.
For example, one of the most essential yet often overlooked foundations for sustaining wellness is quality sleep. Throughout day one and two at the Bedding Seminar Area, sleep technology will again be a key topic of discussion, guaranteeing comprehensive insights on sleep quality while tapping into associated business prospects.
Traditional Chinese medicine will also take the spotlight, with talks linking various health issues to remedies. Crossover subjects include topical therapy’s role in a better night’s sleep as well as innovations blending medicinal properties with textile design.
An increasing number of people are choosing to use natural materials and green textiles for their bedrooms and throughout their homes. For this reason, the seminars falling under the "Textiles & Technology" theme will shed light on sustainability and what’s next in the industry.

Messe Frankfurt will extend its footprint in the Central Asian market by establishing seven brand events in Tashkent, Uzbekistan. The country’s strategic location as a crossroads of Europe and Asia positions it as a promising trade gateway and transportation hub, facilitating the economic development of neighbouring countries and access to the wider region. The company’s stronger presence in the market will promote business opportunities and foster the sustainable development of pillar industries, including cosmetics, textiles and clothing, automotive, logistics and transportation.

Uzbekistan has a promising consumer market with significant potential. It is the largest in Central Asia and is expected to increase due to population growth, rising incomes and the modernisation of economic and industry sectors.
 
The nation has actively sought to diversify its economy in recent years, undertaking reforms for greater entrepreneurial freedom and opening up to more international and regional cooperation. The country already exports precious metals, textiles and agricultural produce. It imports machinery, equipment, means of transportation, and vehicle components from foreign trading partners. Attracting overseas investment is also apparent through incentives such as tax benefits, reduced import duties and simplified procedures for overseas investors.
 
In addition, shifting global supply chains and trading patterns could also drive opportunities in the region. The nation benefits from its geographical location owing to its position between Asia and Europe, to which the Uzbek Government recognises the prospects of investing in infrastructure, such as transportation and logistics, to create an efficient transit hub. Against this backdrop, China acknowledges the importance of developing routes along the Belt and Road while Europe has expressed a readiness to support Uzbekistan’s efforts to diversify transport corridors.

Line-up of shows include:

• Automechanika Tashkent; Futuroad Expo Tashkent; and, Scalex Tashkent: 23 – 25 October 2024
• Heimtextil Uzbekistan; Texworld Tashkent; and, Apparel Sourcing Tashkent: 6 – 8 November 2024
• Beautyworld Central Asia: 21 – 23 November 2024

• Revenue of EUR 1.87 bn and EBITDA of EUR 219.1 mn in the first three quarters of 2023
• Positive free cash flow of EUR 27.3 mn in the third quarter
• Implementation of performance program focusing on positive free cash flow, strengthened sales and margin growth and sustainable cost excellence
• Modernization and conversion of Indonesian site successfully completed – EU Ecolabel received

The anticipated recovery in markets relevant for the Lenzing Group has to date failed to materialize. The continued sharp increase in raw material and energy costs on the one hand and very subdued demand on the other had a negative impact on Lenzing’s business trends as well as on industry as a whole during the reporting period.

Revenue in the first three quarters of 2023 decreased by 5.3 percent year-on-year to EUR 1.87 bn. This reduction was primarily due to lower fiber revenues, while pulp revenues were up. The earnings trend was mainly influenced by the market environment. As a consequence, earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and amortization (EBITDA) in the reporting period decreased by 16.7 percent year-on-year to EUR 219.1 mn. The net result after tax amounted to minus EUR 96.7 mn (compared with EUR 74.9 mn in the first three quarters of 2022), while earnings per share amounted to minus EUR 4.90 (compared with EUR 2.16 in the first three quarters of 2022).

Outlook
According to the IMF, a full return of the global economy to pre-pandemic growth rates appears increasingly out of reach in the coming quarters. In addition to the consequences of the pandemic and the ongoing war in Ukraine, growth is also being influenced by restrictive monetary policy and extreme weather events. The consequences of the renewed military confrontation in the Middle East are not yet foreseeable. Overall, the IMF warns of greater risks to global financial stability, and expects the growth rate to decrease to 3 percent this year and to 2.9 percent next year.

The currency environment is expected to remain volatile in the regions of relevance to Lenzing.

The general market environment is continuing to weigh on the consumer climate and on sentiment in the industries relevant to Lenzing.

In the trend-setting market for cotton, the current 2023/24 crop season is emerging as a further 1.7 mn tonnes of inventory build-up, following 1.8 mn tonnes of inventory build-up in the previous season.

Earnings visibility remains severely limited overall.

Lenzing is fully on track with the implementation of the reorganization and cost reduction program and on this basis is implementing a comprehensive performance program focused on positive free cash flow, strengthened sales and margin growth as well as sustainable cost excellence. The overarching goal is to position Lenzing even more strongly and to further increase its crisis resilience.

In structural terms, Lenzing continues to anticipate growth in demand for environmentally responsible fibers for the textile and clothing industry as well as the hygiene and medical sectors. As a consequence, Lenzing is very well positioned with its “Better Growth” strategy and plans to continue driving growth with specialty fibers as well as its sustainability goals, including the trans-formation from a linear to a circular economy model.

The successful implementation of the key projects in Thailand and Brazil as well as the investment projects in China and Indonesia will further strengthen Lenzing’s positioning in this respect.

Taking the aforementioned factors into consideration, the Lenzing Group continues to expect that EBITDA for the 2023 financial year will lie in a range between EUR 270 mn and EUR 330 mn.

Since the rapid growth brought about by the pandemic, the technical textiles and nonwovens markets are stabilising towards a new normal – one in which technological innovation, sustainable development, and intelligent manufacturing are the most sought-after qualities. Held from 19 – 21 September 2023 at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre, the fair amplified this new industry direction, both through its fringe programme and across the booths of the 40,000 sqm show floor. With a nearly one-third increase from 2021, 467 exhibitors representing 13 countries and regions engaged a significantly international visitor flow, numbering 15,542 total visits from 52 countries and regions. Suppliers showcased up-to-date products for multiple application areas, with various equipment, technical textiles and nonwovens for agriculture, automotive, protective apparel, and medical and hygiene especially prevalent.

Speaking at the fair’s close, Ms Wilmet Shea, General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd, had an optimistic outlook for the future of the sector: “Sustainability and innovation often go hand-in-hand, and walking through the various halls, zones, and pavilions these past few days the evidence for this was widespread. With environmental protection more important than ever, and buyers across application areas increasingly sourcing eco-friendly solutions, our exhibitors were well-placed to meet that demand. This fair is consistently at the leading edge of technological progress, and with the global and domestic markets showing signs of improving further, we are already looking forward to what we can offer at next year’s edition.”  

With many overseas exhibitors making a comeback, this year’s fair was marked by the return of the Taiwan Pavilion and the 40-exhibitor strong European Zone. Beyond the international areas, domestic pavilions were organised by Beijing Guanghua, China Hang Tang Group, Funing, Jiujing, Shenda, Tiantai, Xianto, and Xiqiao, showcasing nonwovens for various sub-sectors, including filtration and medical. Valuable insights were exchanged at multiple fringe events, including the 11th China International Nonwovens Conference, the Advanced Technical Textiles Industry Chain Synergistic Innovation Development Forum, various events covering marine textiles and rope netting, and the “Kingsafe Dangs” National University Students' Nonwovens Development and Applications Showcase. Visitors, meanwhile, were pleased with the innovation on show across the entire platform.

The fair’s product categories cover 12 application areas, which comprehensively span a full range of potential uses in modern technical textiles and nonwovens. These categories also cover the entire industry, from upstream technology and raw materials providers to finished fabrics, chemicals and other solutions. This scope of product groups and application areas ensures that the fair is an effective business platform for the entire industry.

ITMA 2023 was a successful platform for the flat knitting machine manufacturer STOLL to present its latest new developments. The business unit of the KARL MAYER GROUP will be following up this fair on 3 July with the launch of a further innovation package. With the solutions contained in this package, STOLL will be offering its customers additional added value when using their flat knitting machines - in line with the concept of bundling innovations.

The new features include an optimised central lubrication system that reduces both maintenance effort and oil consumption, this as standard from July 2023 for all models of the CMS and ADF series produced in Reutlingen.
Compared to the previous optional variant, it ensures more efficient and comprehensive lubrication. All needle bed elements, from the holding-down jack to the coupling part and intermediate slider to the selection jack, are now supplied with oil. The machine itself recognises whether lubrication is required. Independently of this, the lubrication intensity and oil distribution can be adapted to the individual machine conditions by setting various parameters, if required. To ensure that the required amount of lubricant is reliably supplied, a message is sent if the level is too low.

In addition, a new oil drain container as standard equipment for all CMS and ADF models catches used oil from the needle bed under the machine. This prevents soiling of floors or knitted fabrics. The emptying of the container can be efficiently managed by an adjustable reminder function. The neat and at the same time sustainable solution does not require cleaning agents or hoovers and offers the possibility to reuse the oil after cleaning through special filters, if necessary.

Users of CMS and ADF belt take-down machines can benefit from optimisations around the belt take-down. Thanks to the new STOLL innovation package, this can be turned forwards and backwards by means of a switch as standard in order to easily eliminate fabric wraps and thus reduce maintenance times. In addition, a mirror, which is also fitted as standard, ensures a simple visual check of the belt take-down.

Another solution of the STOLL innovation package from July 2023 includes new cams that enable split-stitch implementation without cam box modification. This reduces manual effort and thus conversion times and costs. The feature is standard on all fine gauges ADF and CMS machines.

For the W machines from STOLL, there is now a further inlay yarn carrier, the Qt, in addition to the previous Qw yarn carrier. The extension means that the number of inlay yarn carriers used in a system can be increased from the previous one to three. No additional system is required for the weft yarn, and the process steps weft yarn insertion and knitting take place in the same system.

From 9 to 11 August 2023, IFCO, Istanbul Fashion Connection will be held for the fourth time at the Istanbul Expo Center at 6 Halls. The fashion fair is organised by ITKIB Fairs, a subsidiary of Istanbul Apparel Exporter's Association, the umbrella organisation of the Turkish fashion and apparel industry.

IFCO has developed into a hub for fashion enthusiasts, designers, buyers and trendsetters and has established itself as an important international platform for the global fashion industry. IFCO brings together around 400 exhibitors from all product groups of the apparel and fashion industry under one roof in six clearly structured halls: womenswear, menswear, childrenswear, denim, sportswear, evening and occasion wear, bridal wear, lingerie, hosiery, leather and fur, shoes and accessories.

From high-end tailoring to streetwear and sustainable fashion, the fair will present a wide range of styles and trends. IFCO Brands present market leaders such as İpekyol, Climber, Damat, Kiğılı, B&G Store, Lufian, Jakamen, NaraMaxx, Giovane Gentile and Lee Cooper using IFCOto further expand their international network.

THE CORE ISTANBUL, successfully launched at IFCO in February, once again features a fascinating mix of established and emerging important Turkish designerswith their creative and innovative creations.

One focus of the fair will be the topic of sustainability. Companies will show their innovations. Ekoteks, the association's sustainability laboratory, supports the development of sustainable production and will also have a stand at IFCO to present the latest developments in this area.

The extensive supporting program with fashion shows and trend zones inspires visitors with the latest fashion trends and styles, while the seminars and workshops address current topics in the fashion industry such as digital transformation, smart clothing, technical textiles and sustainability.

30,000 visitors from more than 100 countries are expected at the upcoming IFCO, mainly from the EU, UK, Eastern Europe, CIS, North Africa, Middle East and the USA. The show also offers networking events, such as B2B Speed Dating, which brings together fashion designers, brands, manufacturers, buyers and industry experts to exchange ideas and forge potential business relationships. This is an important aspect of the fair that has helped to position Istanbul Fashion Connection as a key meeting place for the fashion industry.