Textile Technology section
Bogner: continued growth in 2019/20 financial year
The manufacturer of apparel Willy Bogner GmbH & Co. KGaA, Munich/Germany, continued its growth course of the past years in the 2019/2020 financial year. BOGNER generated €163 million in sales. Earnings before taxes (EBT) amounted to €2.6 million following €0.3 million in the last comparable fiscal year 2017/18.
Bogner’s business was very solid on entering the corona virus crisis. The company responded swiftly and flexibly to the lockdown, and took resolute countermeasures. It is also about to conclude a financing package. In addition to a syndicated loan, it will include state subsidies from LfA Förderbank Bayern to cover the repercussions of the corona virus pandemic.
Even before the current crisis, Bogner had worked with the management consultancy EY to develop a performance program designed to reduce complexity and make the company faster, more flexible, and more profitable in the long-term. The program involves a gradual reduction in staff. A total of around 150 jobs will be reduced over a period of 2 years. This will particularly affect the administration in Munich and the company’s own logistics in Heimstetten/Germany. The logistics will be outsourced to a service provider.
ACIMIT: strong decline in Italian textile machinery in Q1/2020
In the first quarter (Q1) of 2020, the orders intake of Italian textile machinery registered a sharp drop. The Covid-19 pandemic is impacting heavily on the sector. The consequences on the orders will be more negative in Q2.
The index of orders intake for textile machines drawn up by the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers (ACIMIT), Milan/Italy, for the period from January to March 2020 fell by 31% compared to the same period of 2019.
Order intake was negative both on foreign markets and in Italy. Orders from abroad were down 26%, while on the domestic market they marked -57% compared to Q1/2019.
Following a difficult year, the Italian textile machinery had to face Covid-19 pandemic, which led, as a first consequence, to the slowdown of the main markets in the sector, China, Turkey and India, in January 2020. Indeed in 2019 the Italian textile machinery industry observed a decrease both in production (-13%) and in exports (-14%) compared to the previous year.
Archroma: combining eco-advanced colors with hygiene and protection
As part of its active engagement in the fight against Covid-19, the producer of dyes and specialty chemicals Archroma Management LLC, Reinach/Switzerland, has announced a collaboration with denim manufacturer Soorty Enterprises Pvt. Ltd., Karachi/Pakistan. The alliance will develop Soorty’s new collection combining eco-advanced colors with hygiene and protection technologies. Archroma will contribute technologies, innovations and systems for coloration, hygiene and protection. These include an aniline-free indigo system, Pure Indigo Flow, based on the new Denisol Pure Indigo developed to preserve the health of denim workers and aquatic life, a water-saving dyeing technology, and an antibacterial treatment based on Sanitized technology and designed to keep the garment odor-free, fresh and germ-free.
The denim collection will be introduced by Soorty under the brand SmartCare+ and will include denim fabric, garments and, coming soon, masks.
IVC: new Board
The election of the chairman, the vice-chairman and the treasurer took place at the general meeting of the Association of Man-Made Fibres e.V. (IVC), Frankfurt/Germany, on July 24, 2020. Stefan Braun of Dralon GmbH, Dormagen, was no longer available for this election after 2 terms of office as IVC chairman.
Klaus Holz (photo) of Trevira GmbH, Bobingen/Germany, was elected as the new chairman, having previously been deputy chairman. Wolfram Daubek-Puza from Lenzing AG, Lenzing/Austria, was elected as deputy chairman. The previous treasurer of the IVC, Dr. Till Boldt of Enka International GmbH & Co. KG, Wuppertal, was confirmed in his office by re-election.
Oerlikon: largest single industrial yarn order to China
From the end of 2020, the yarn manufacturer Fujian Billion Polymerization Technology Industrial Co., Ltd. (FBPT), Jinjiang, Quangzhou/China, will be producing industrial yarns using systems supplied by Oerlikon Barmag, Remscheid/Germany, a subsidiary of the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment of Oerlikon Management AG, Pfäffikon/Switzerland.
Thus the company – considered to be the largest polyester yarn manufacturer in southern China – is now also entering the industrial yarn market. With 124 positions and a capacity of around 250,000 tons/year, this project is the largest single industrial yarn order placed with Oerlikon Barmag to date.
With this order, FBPT positions itself as one of the 10 largest Chinese industrial yarn producers. The company will be predominantly manufacturing high-tenacity (HT) and low-shrinkage (LS) yarns from the end of this year. These sophisticated yarns are deployed both in the automotive, geotextiles and safety sectors (HT yarns) and in the manufacture of coated industrial textiles such as truck tarpaulins and tents (LS yarns).
Swiss Textile Machinery Association: crisis-proof for 80 years
The Swiss Textile Machinery Association (Swissmem), Zurich/Switzerland, celebrates its 80th anniversary. During these years it has survived several crises.
The association was born out of a crisis situation. In 1940, a year after the start of World War II, events began to impact on the local machinery industry in Switzerland. One problem was a lack of skilled workers and another was a shortage of raw materials.
Solidarity created out of a need for steel led representatives from 22 companies to join forces in forming the first textile machinery group. This was the origin of what today has grown into Swissmem.
Over the years, there have been numerous periods of great difficulty for the industry: wars, global economic slumps and other crises of varying degrees of seriousness followed one after another. The profile of the world textile industry also changed. Mass production has long since migrated to the East and South-East. Swiss textile machinery today holds a leading position in the high-quality segment of special machines and top-actuality materials.
The crisis which Swissmem faces today is the corona pandemic. The full impact on the industry will only become apparent in the future
VDMA: new technologies for mask production
Members of the German Textile Machinery Association (VDMA), Frankfurt/Germany, in a short time have reacted to the new market requirements and developed new technologies for knitted, warp knitted and woven respiratory masks that can be produced without the need for sewing. For surgical masks, FFP2 respirators and social distancing masks, a wide variety of other materials and combinations of materials are used, for example nonwovens, woven fabrics, knitted or warp knitted fabrics and laminates. Several association members provide technologies for the production of elastic bands that are required to wear the masks.
Material for masks can be treated with textile chemicals to make them antiviral and antibacterial. For this purpose, the VDMA member companies offer application systems which apply the corresponding chemicals to the webs. Moreover, software systems with which each mask can be traced through the entire production process are offered.
VDMA members also offer solutions for the assembly of respiratory masks, which enable respirators to be produced that meet the relevant standards and the quality requirements.
Also, for surgical gowns and wipes, VDMA members manufacture tailor-made machines for production through to packaging. The quality of the products is ensured by means of measurement and control technology.
In the wake of the corona crisis, the VDMA has launched a new series of web events called “Textile Machinery Webtalk”.
Ems-Chemie: Dr. Kleiner strengthens Executive Management
The executive management of high performance polymers and specialty chemicals company Ems-Chemie Holding AG, Dormat/Switzerland, will be joined by Dr. Christoph Kleiner as of August 6, 2020.
After studying chemistry and gaining his PhD from the University of Basel/Switzerland, Kleiner joined the former Ciba Geigy, Basel, in 1990 where he was assigned various leadership positions in research & development and production of polymer additives. In 1997 he transferred to the Siegfried Group, Wilmington, DE/USA, where he was responsible for the manufacture of active pharmaceutical ingredients in Switzerland and the USA as well as for group strategic projects and acquisitions. Since 2007 he has led the performance polymers business of Quadrant EPP, Lenzburg/Switzerland, first as head of production and supply chain management, later as President Quadrant EPP Europe. After the take-over by Mitsubishi Chemical in 2013, he became Managing Director EPP Global Operations responsible for all worldwide production locations within Mitsubishi Chemical Advanced Materials, holding this position until June 2020.
SPGPrints: reinvented mesh structure to eliminate moiré
Designs often make use of halftones and grids, which are based on an orthogonal orientation. Printing these designs with the common rotary screens can generate undesired moiré.
Due to the reinvented mesh structure of the OrtaScreen by the manufacturer of industrial printing machines SPGPrints, Boxmeer/Netherlands, moiré can be eliminated. The orthogonal orientation of the holes brings 4 bridges together instead of the 3 in hexagonal screens. The OrtaScreen features a 3-dimensional surface structure, allowing the paste of adjacent holes to flow together and to cover the textile substrate easily. It allows geometrical and halftone designs to be printed with high edge sharpness and leads to high print definition. Furthermore, blotch printing is taken to a new level.
OrtaScreen is already being used by textile printing company Menderes Tekstil, Izmir/Turkey, as a replacement for the previously used NovaScreen from SPGPrints.
Technical Absorbents: eliminating EtO issues with low shrink SAF fabrics
Fiber manufacturer Technical Absorbents Ltd. (TAL), Gimsby/UK, has developed a new grade of superabsorbent fiber (SAF) specifically for use within a new range of SAF nonwovens that are more resistant to shrinkage.
The new SAF was developed in response to the demand from the medical industry for a superabsorbent fabric suitable for use in advanced wound pad dressings. The fiber had to be capable of withstanding the moisture used in the EtO sterilization process that is frequently employed in the production of the pads, in order to ensure product safety and compliance.
EtO sterilization is a low-temperature process (typically between 37 and 63°C) that uses ethylene oxide (EtO) gas to reduce the level of infectious agents. While generally applied in gas form, however, the EtO is usually mixed with other substances – and often steam.
The amount of shrinkage caused by EtO sterilization depends very much on the product design and construction, but in general the new SAF has been tested and proven to reduce fabric shrinkage by around 70%. It is suitable for use in all SAF nonwovens formats, whether needlepunched, thermally bonded or airlaid.