Textile Technology section
Milliken: acquisition of Borchers from The Jordan Company
The manufacturer of specialty chemicals, floor covering, and performance and protective textiles Milliken & Company, Spartanburg, SC/USA, has announced that it has signed an agreement to acquire Borchers Group Ltd., Westlake, OH/USA, a global specialty chemicals company known for its innovative high-performance coating additives and specialty catalyst solutions from The Jordan Company, L.P., New York, NY/USA. The acquisition is expected to close in January 2020, subject to customary closing conditions.
Borchers carries a respected portfolio of additives for the coatings, inks and adhesives markets with a comprehensive range of cobalt-free driers, dispersants, rheology modifiers, wetting agents, polymerization catalysts and adhesion promoters. The addition of Borchers – particularly its expertise in specialty coating additives – further builds Milliken’s comprehensive solutions portfolio, aligned with the company’s strategic objective to develop a global range of growth platforms.
Rieter: order intake +7% for 2019
The textile machinery manufacturer Rieter Holding AG, Winterthur/Switzerland, achieved an order intake of CHF 926 million in the 2019 financial year, 7% higher than in the prior year period. Total sales reached CHF 760 million, 29% down on the previous year.
The Business Group (BG) Machines & Systems posted an order intake of CHF 563 million, an increase of 20% compared to the previous year. This is primarily due to the 4th quarter (Q4) of 2019, in which an order intake of CHF 307 million was booked. This figure includes orders from Cotton & Textile Industries Holding Co., Cairo/Egypt, for the delivery of compact and ring spinning systems in the amount of around CHF 165 million.
In the BG Components, order intake went down by 15% to CHF 222 million compared to the previous year. Due to weaker macroeconomic conditions, order intake in Q4/2019 was CHF 49 million, lower than in the previous quarters.
With an order intake of CHF 141 million, the BG After Sales recorded a year-on-year increase of 1%. Q4/ 2019, in contrast, with an order intake of CHF 45.5 million, was significantly higher than the previous quarters, which is largely attributable to the installation services for the Cotton & Textile Industries Holding Co. project.
Sympatex: responsible production using closed production cycles
Closing the textile cycle and thus minimizing environmental pollution: With this approach, the manufacturer of membranes and functional materials Sympatex Technologies GmbH, Unterföhring/Germany, aims to counteract an accumulation of old textiles, intensive use of chemicals and extensive water pollution.
At the international fair for sporting goods Ispo Munich, form January 26-29, 2020 in Munich/Germany, Sympatex presents another result of this policy: an upcycled functional jacket made from 30% recycled textiles and 70% recycled PET bottles.
The 3-layer, high-performance jacket rEvolution Hybrid is the result of the European industry partnership wear2wear, founded in 2017, which in the meantime has grown to 9 core members and 3 technology partners with the aim of rapidly closing the textile loop. This outdoor jacket offers high wearing comfort and also EN 343-certified rain protection. Inspection of the sustainable and skin-friendly rEvolution Hybrid jacket is carried out by Oeko-Tex and bluesign in line with the stringent Standard 100.
The Design2Recycle concept that was developed for the rEvolution Hybrid is based on a selection of low-seam cuts of materials that are as pure-grade as possible, in combination with unmixed ingredients and environmentally-compatible equipment and dyes that do not affect the recycling process.
Using an integrated RFID chip, all wear2wear products are traceable and transparent for the consumer and the process partner.
Sympatex plans to obtain at least half of the raw material required for its functional laminates from the circular textile cycle within 5 years and even 100% by 2030. The first laminates made from recycled textile material should be available in 2020.
Südwolle Group: sustainable wool blends in collaboration with Itochu Corp.
The manufacturer of worsted products Südwolle Group, Nuremberg/Germany, is expanding its offering through the strategic cooperation with Renu project by Itochu Corp., Tokyo/Japan. The partnership comprises a strategic co-development and marketing of yarns and fabrics constructed with Itochu’s Renu recycled polyester fiber blended with wool targeted for the worsted yarn industry.
Südwolle Group already integrates various recycled raw materials within its GRS certified yarns. However with Renu fibers and filaments, they are now able to offer market unique wool blends with recycled polyester originating exclusively from textile waste. In this blend Renu delivers the performance of synthetics, such as durability and abrasion-resistance, whereas wool contributes to comfort with its thermo-regulating and moisture-managing attributes as well as a soft hand touch.
Renu fiber is GRS certified sustainable polyester recycled from textile waste and old clothing. Collected garments and textiles are cut and processed into new polyester fibers through a unique de-polymerization and refining process. Removing colors from the previous textile is possible due to a special technology that allows the recycled material to have a dye-ability comparable to virgin polyester. In addition, quality and performance of the recycled polyester does not depend on the quality of the waste: Renu can utilize nearly any type of pre- and post-consumer waste as long as it contains polyester.
HeiQ: next generation for product families HeiQ Fresh and HeiQ XReflex
The updated products by the supplier of finishing technology, HeiQ Materials AG, Zurich/Switzerland, offer improvement in multiple technical aspects for HeiQ Fresh and more product options with HeiQ XReflex.
HeiQ Pure TAG, part of the HeiQ Fresh product family for odor control in outdoor apparel, has been upgraded. It is a recycled silver-based odor control with a nonionic reformulation, compatible with most textile finishing. It has a long shelf life and is storage stable. HeiQ Pure SPQR is a hybrid silver and bio-based, dual-action odor control technology and meets USDA Bio-preferred requirements. HeiQ Fresh FFL is a bio-based odor control technology that also meets USDA Bio-preferred requirements. All these products are Oeko-Tex Class 1-4 compliant and bluesign approved.
The supplier is also launching additional fabrics and insulation packages for HeiQ XReflex, a solution that offers the same level of warmth with up to half the reduction of insulation, reducing bulk and saving materials for apparel, sleeping bags, gloves, blankets, etc. An average insulated jacket can save up to 280 g of CO2, 10 MJ of energy and 6 l of water with HeiQ XReflex. This patented radiant barrier technology is now offered with 1 or 2 layers of heat reflective surface, offering up to 50% less bulk at the same warmth, without affecting fabric breathability. HeiQ XReflex is also available as a scrim layer, providing an ultra-thin radiant barrier for design flexibility and logistics and cost optimization.
ESMA: digital printing on textiles
The European Association of Screen Printing Equipment Manufacturers (ESMA), Sint-Joris-Winge/Belgium, and the German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research (DITF), Denkendorf/Germany, will host the first comprehensive course on all theoretical and practical aspects of digital printing technology for textile applications. The course Digital Textile Printing will take place from April 21-24, 2020 in Denkendorf.
Participants will receive insights in the procedure of inkjet printing on textile materials and accompanying topics such as textile chemistry and pre-treatment, ink formulation, curing techniques, color management and characterization of textile materials and printing quality. In addition, the workflow in digital printing will be shown in a Textile Micro-factory environment. The practical training will be offered in small teams and will highlight some of the topics that are discussed in the theoretical part. Participants will learn and exercise the workflow and each required single step in digital printing on textiles.
There has been a visible shift from analogue to digital taking place in segments such as apparel or home textiles. Various estimates expect a growth of digital textile printing between 6% and 20% in the next decade. Moreover, the ongoing change to digital demands a higher level of education on using the new technologies: understanding color management, specifics of inkjet and its implementation into existing business concepts. The new Textile Division of ESMA is considered by the association as the home for the textile printing manufacturers. Their target group includes all manufacturers of products used in textile printing workflow (digital or screen) and the focus areas of the division are sustainability, standardization, color management and regulations.
For further information: www.esma.com
Durst: industrial textile printing segment restructured
The manufacturer of digital printing machines Durst Phototechnik AG, Brixen/Italy, has restructured its segment for industrial textile printing. Dr. Stefan Kappaun (photo), a member of Durst Group’s executive team, succeeds Martin Winkler as the new segment manager.
Kappaun heads the ink business for all segments as Executive Vice President Inks & Fluids. He is a technical chemist with a focus on polymer science and a trained business economist. He is responsible for the strategic direction in home textiles, clothing and accessories. He will be the connecting link to the Large Format Segment, which takes over soft signage and fabrics in the portfolio.
Digital textile printing is one of the largest growth markets for inkjet technologies. It is a sector being targeted by advertising media and large format providers in addition to traditional textile producers. With the Alpha Series, Durst offers industrial printing systems with water-based reactive, pigment and disperse inks as well as with the pixel-to-output strategy end-to-end software solutions for efficient and cost-transparent digital textile printing. These products are intended to serve the different requirements of traditional textile manufacturers as well as non-industry service providers and to support customers in the digital transformation.
Domotex 2020: Focus on wellbeing and sustainability
Over 1,400 exhibitors from more than 60 different nations presented their products to 35,000 visitors at the trade show for floor coverings, Domotex, on January 10-13, 2020, in Hanover/Germany. The show's keynote theme of Atmysphere highlighted aspects of wellbeing and sustainability.
Showing its international relevance, 70% of attendees came from abroad, and 90% of all visitors have decision-making authority at their companies. Based on this year's visitor survey, almost half of all attendees (44%) used the event to generate new leads.
The next Domotex will be staged on January 15-18, 2021, at its traditional venue in Hanover.
Kelheim Fibres: wood-based alternative for feminine hygiene nonwovens
The premium tampon fiber Galaxy by the cellulose fiber producer Kelheim Fibres GmbH, Kelheim/Germany, can substitute up to 70% of the synthetics in ADL (Acquisition-Distribution-Layers) in feminine hygiene pads.
The viscose hygiene fibers Galaxy offer significant ecologic advantages: they are made from cellulose, and they are fully biodegradable in arid as well as maritime environments.
These fibers are manufactured exclusively in Germany, in, according to the producer, an environmentally friendly plant. Due to its wicking and absorption capacity the fiber Galaxy conducts liquids quickly and efficiently away from the body and leaves a pleasant feeling on the skin. In addition, Galaxy helps to distribute the liquid evenly in the absorbent core while providing lower rewetting.
Trevira: declining sales in 2019
As the global economic conditions deteriorated in 2019, the manufacturer of polyester fibers Trevira GmbH, Bobingen/Germany, saw a decline in new orders in all segments of both business units (fibers and filaments). With total sales of approx. €208 million in 2019, this result was below expectations.
However, in spite of the difficult situation, 2019 was also a year in which Trevira was able to take important steps to set the course for the future: in April 2019, Trevira was able to put the new twin warping machine in Guben/Germany into operation and, in addition, new POY spinning machines were also started up. Funds were also invested in the fiber business in Bobingen/Germany. In November, Trevira’s 2nd in-house converting line was successfully launched. Moreover, in order to expand the bi-component fiber business, a new spinning plant is now also available.
Social demands for more sustainability concerning the use of plastic have led to rethinking among customers and consumers. Here, Trevira relies on various processes to recover reusable materials. In post-consumer recycling, filaments and fibers are produced from re-granulated PET bottles. Using an agglomeration facility, reusable materials can be recovered from production waste and processed further to create new high-quality products.
Overall, a continuing trend in favor of special fibers and a greater demand for PLA or bio-based fibers can be recorded. The demand for antimony-free raw materials in the fiber sector is also developing positively. In 2020, the polycondensation capacities in the Trevira plant in Bobingen will be fully utilized.
Also in 2020, the enhancement of synergy effects is expected, which result from the recent purchase of the Italian polyester filament manufacturer Sinterama SpA, Sandigliano, by Indorama Ventures PCL (IVL), Bangkok/Thailand, the owner of Trevira. Numerous new and further developments, particularly in the area of sustainable products and the Trevira CS product range, represent great potential.