Textile Technology section
Birla Cellulose: joint patent for high tenacity lyocell
A joint patent application has been filed by Birla Cellulose, the pulp and fiber business of the Aditya Birla Group, Mumbai/India, and Nanollose Ltd., Nedlands/Australia, for a high tenacity lyocell fiber made from bacterial cellulose.
The patent application represents a major advancement over Nanollose’s previous viscose versions of nullarbor and nufolium fibers. Using the lyocell process, nullarbor fiber has been produced that is finer than silk and significantly stronger than conventional lyocell that is traditionally based on wood pulp.
Lyocell is a form of rayon, made using a closed loop process with low demand on chemical and water usage and low waste generation. This makes it very environment-friendly. Furthermore, the combination of the Nanollose’s Tree-Free cellulose, along with Birla Cellulose’s closed-loop lyocell production process, could potentially make this Tree-Free lyocell one of the most eco-friendly and sustainable fibers available.
The joint patent application strengthens the intellectual property portfolio of both companies and provides protection for this innovative Tree-Free fiber technology. The nullarbor lyocell fibers are produced using feedstock from industrial and agricultural organic waste.
Toray: conjugate spinning technology for fabric like Japanese paper
A polyester filament fabric that combines the softness, smoothness, and comfort of synthetic fibers with the natural feel and random unevenness of traditional Japanese paper has been developed by the fiber and textile manufacturer Toray Industries Inc., Osaka/Japan.
Unlike conventional fabrics, Camifu can match the Japanese paper features. The conjugate spinning technology, Nanodesign was used to develop a flat C cross-sectional shape that delivers a precise arrangement of 3 different polymers. It has arranged polymers with different heat shrinkage properties in special shapes on the left and right of a flat cross-section, with a soluble polymer in the fiber center.
Toray heat treated polymers on the left and right side of the fiber to bend along the fiber length. This, coupled with a flat shape, creates a unique twist and stretch. Varying the arrangement and shape of the polymer with adjacent fibers generates different torsional structures for each yarn, resulting in a yarn bundle structure containing complex voids.
A yarn bundle structure produces a random unevenness in the fabric texture so it feels like hand-made Japanese paper. Single yarns comprising polymers with different colorations and dyeability cover the fabric without aligning. Camifu is eco-friendly, as one of its polymer is recycled from film scraps.
A hollow structure inside the fiber was created by placing a soluble polymer within, augmenting yarn bundle voids from filament twisting during relaxing and weight reduction process on textile. This hollow portion imparts a lightness and resilient feel to the fabric. A precisely designed slit keeps functional agents within the fiber, making it possible to incorporate a range of features in the fabric.
Gerber: digitalization to transform for the pandemic era
Rather than stopping garment production and furloughing employees when the Covid-19 pandemic reached their home country, knitwear clothing manufacturer, Bonneterie Chanteclair, Saint-Pouange/France, developed a high-quality mask with a HEPA filter.
As Chanteclair began to receive many orders from regional administrations, they developed an eCommerce website to sell B2B and B2C. To help keep up with demand, the company began working with the supplier of integrated software solutions Gerber Technology, Tolland, CT/USA, to help them pivot their supply chain and remain agile.
Gerber worked with Bonneterie Chanteclair to digitally transform their supply chain so they were able to keep up with the high demand for protective masks. Chanteclair acquired Gerber’s full end-to-end solution, which includes Gerber’s pattern making solution, AccuMark, their automated nesting and cut planning solutions, AccuNest and AccuPlan as well as the Gerber Paragon. With this end-to-end solution, Chanteclair was able to fulfill a high demand for masks in a short period of time.
Since March 2020, Gerber’s PPE Task Force has helped over 1,700 companies pivot to PPE production and helped them keep their doors open through the Covid-19 pandemic.
Teijin: Europe Sustainable Technology Innovation Center
The producer of advanced fibers and composites, Teijin Ltd., Tokyo/Japan, has established the European Sustainable Technology Innovation Center (ESTIC) in Arnhem/Netherlands as a research and development facility tasked with developing technologies for a more sustainable world.
As a research and development hub for Teijin's environmental-value solutions, ESTIC will facilitate collaboration among researchers across borders to strengthen development initiatives in the company’s various business units. ESTIC will also undertake the challenge of developing all-new businesses that leverage the lifecycle capabilities of Teijin’s core materials and the development of green materials to support the global circular economy. This includes efforts to reduce CO2 emissions and to stimulate the hydrogen economy.
ESTIC will also establish a satellite office at Brightlands Chemelot Campus, an international open-innovation community active in performance materials, sustainable processes and biomedical solutions in Sittard-Geleen/Netherlands, to further activate communication with external innovation communities and research institutes.
Teijin, aiming to be a company that supports the society of the future as well as the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), looks forward to ESTIC contributing to the development of sustainable products and technologies that help to lower environmental impact.
SGL: order-driven enhancement of operations in Arkadelphia progresses
The carbon fiber producer SGL Carbon SE, Wiesbaden/Germany, is currently enhancing its operations in Arkadelphia, AR/USA, by introducing new production processes for fiber-based composites in order to ramp up its production.
The company was awarded a substantial contract for composite battery enclosures from a North-American automaker as announced in January 2020. The enhancement reflects an investment into the facility of approximately US$ 4.5 million within 3 years and will increase the workforce at the site by 35 full-time employees. For the investment, SGL will also receive public funding from the Arkansas Economic Development Commission (AEDC), the City of Arkadelphia and the Clark County.
The enhancement of the Arkadelphia operations started in October 2020 and is planned to be fully operational by the end of 2021.
Andritz: new spunlace line for Minet in Romania
For the production of a wide range of hygiene products, the international technology group Andritz AG, Graz/Austria, received an order to supply a neXline spunlace eXcelle line to the manufacturer of nonwovens Minet S.A, Ramnicu Valcéa/Romania, for processing different qualities from 25-70 g/m². Start-up of this line, which will be the 1st of its kind in Romania, is expected during the 2nd quarter of 2022.
Andritz will deliver a complete line, from web forming to drying. The line will integrate a high-speed TT card, the Jetlace Essentiel hydroentanglement unit equipped with a neXecodry S1 system for energy saving, and a neXdry double-drum through-air dryer.
The production capacity will be 10,000 tons/year, while the operating speed will be up to 250 m/min and the maximum output at the carding outlet around 1,500 kg/h.
Just recently, Andritz completed the commissioning of a neXline needlepunch eXcelle line for Minet to produce automotive products made from a large variety of fibers. For this contract, Andritz delivered a complete line from fiber preparation to end-of-line, also integrating card, crosslapper, batt drafter, 2 needlelooms and a Zeta felt drafter with a working width of more than 6 m. The line is also equipped with the unique ProDyn web profiling system, operating as a closed-loop control system in order to ensure good evenness of the products.
ADD ITC: Call for Papers
The Aachen-Dresden-Denkendorf International Textile Conference (ADD ITC) 2021 will be held on November 9-10, 2021 in Stuttgart/Germany with 4 parallel sessions and a special focus on industrial topics. Partner countries this year are Portugal and Spain.
Until March 31, 2021, experts from the fields of textile chemistry, finishing and functionalization, synthetic fibers, machinery, processes and composites can submit presentation proposals with an abstract on the following topics:
- textile mechanical engineering ideas
- high-performance fibers and fiber composites
- competitive advantages and sustainability: functionalization, new finishings
- medical textiles/medical technologies
- new applications, new markets.
For further information: www.aachen-dresden-denkendorf.de/en/itc
Elleti: partnership with Wiser Wash for more sustainable denim production
The specialist for denim treatment and garment personalization Elleti Group Srl, San Bonifacio/Italy, is now the exclusive partner of Wiser Wash, Amsterdam/Netherlands, for Europe and the Mediterranean area, with Portugal being the only exception.
The partnership with Wiser Wash is a continuation of Elleti’s development of cutting-edge solutions and commitment to environmental sustainability. With the introduction of Wiser Wash's technology, Elleti has significantly reduced the amount of resources used in traditional garment treatment. This patented washing method eliminates the use of pumice stone and all harmful chemicals, while drastically reducing water consumption throughout the process. In addition, the efficiency of the process lowers chemical and mechanical stress on fabric fibers as compared to traditional treatment, guaranteeing greater garment robustness and longevity.
Karl Mayer: high-speed double needle bar raschel machine
The RD-series of double needle bar raschel machines from the textile machinery manufacturer Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH, Obertshausen/Germany, produces high-quality 3D textiles with a trick plate distance of 2-6 mm. The medium-size articles cover the entire spectrum of common applications, such as shoe fabrics, mattress borders and clothing.
The RD 7/2-6 EN offers up to 30% higher speed compared to its established predecessor model using the same guide bar equipment. More output per machine also means space is used more efficiently and less manpower is required.
The EN pattern drive in combination with a maximum shogging movement of 1” ensures variety. This allows the production of trendy fabrics with up to 12,000 stitch repeats, including most common designs produced on seven-bar RD machines. The various fabric designs are possible without pattern disks, but can be implemented at the same working speed as when using mechanical pattern carriers. By basing the EN gear on the EL one, the quality of the produced fabrics can be adapted to the requirements faster and easier.
The RD 7/2-6 EN is offered in the gauges E 18, E 22 and E 24. The available working widths are 138” and 77”.
Teijin: support for call for higher renewable-energy target
The producer of advanced fibers and composites, Teijin Ltd., Tokyo/Japan, has stated its support of the Japan Climate Initiative (JCI)’s call on the Japanese government to upwardly revise its target renewable-energy ratio for fiscal 2030, currently set at 22-24%, to a more ambitious ratio of 40-50%, closer to levels declared by the USA and European Union (EU) countries.
The JCI statement issued on January 18, 2021, asks the government to raise the renewable-energy target rate in the nation’s next Strategic Energy Plan, which is scheduled to be finalized in 2021. The statement also encourages Japanese companies to play a larger role in the effort to decarbonize global industry as well as to raise their in-house goals to more ambitious levels to help to limit climate change.
The JCI is a network of Japanese corporations committed to strengthening communication and the exchange of best strategies and solutions among all entities in Japan that are working to combat climate change.
Teijin, a JCI member company, aims to lower the groupwide environmental impact including achieving net zero emissions by fiscal 2050 and is gradually replacing its current source of electricity with renewable energy.