Textile Technology section
TMAS: 2 new members with Industry 4.0 technology
The Textile Machinery Association of Sweden (TMAS), Stockholm/Sweden, welcomes 2 new companies – both at the forefront of sustainable and Industry 4.0-enabled technologies – to its membership.
The first is Coloreel AB, Jönköping/Sweden, the developer of a thread coloring unit which enables the instant and high-quality coloring, fixation, washing and lubrication of thread to take place simultaneously to the actual embroidering of a fabric, representing an entirely new approach to this traditional field.
The advanced colorization software and instant thread coloring technology allows a single needle to carry out what previously required multiples of them, and with much more consistent stitch quality. Designed to work with any existing industrial embroidery machine without modification, the stand-alone Coloreel unit allows set-up and lead times to be reduced as well as significant flexibility in production schedules, while eliminating the need for large thread inventories. The unit can also reduce the total production time required for complex designs by up to 80%, as well as instant reaction to the specific color requirements of customers.
The second new TMAS member, imogo AB, Limhamn/Sweden, has the patent-pending FlexDyer process which provides opportunities for major savings in water, energy, chemicals and dyes by as much as 90% compared to conventional jet dyeing systems, as well as in lowering maintenance and labor costs. Imogo’s Mini-Max spray test unit is also available for the achievement of offline ‘right first time’ results for the company’s industrial scale Dye-Max.
The savings in treatment water the Dye-Max achieves are due to the extremely low liquor ratio of 0.3-0.8 l/kg of fabric and at the same time, the low liquor ratio and the spray process require considerably less auxiliary chemicals to start with. The low liquid content in the fabric also minimizes the energy required for fixation. The Dye-Max has a working speed of up to 50 m/min with the practical speed determined by the fabric weight and application volume. The Spray Applicator can also be incorporated in existing lines to replace a padder, both for dyeing and applying finishing chemistry, in order to increase their productivity and reduce the environmental footprint of existing processes.
Textile Exchange: Preferred Fiber and Materials Market Report 2019
The international non-profit organization Textile Exchange, O’Donnell, TX/USA, has published the Preferred Fiber and Materials Market Report (PFMR) 2019, which measures the production of fiber and materials with improved social and environmental impacts – known as Preferred. This in-depth report focuses on the industry’s supply side, analyzing production volumes, availability and emerging fiber trends.
The PFMR 2019 reveals that global fiber production has doubled in the last 20 years, reaching an all-time high of 107 million tons in 2018 and is expected to grow to 145 million tons by 2030 if business-as-usual continues. Included in this production increase from the 2018 reporting year are more responsible (preferred) options for almost all fiber categories.
The PFMR focuses on data in various fiber categories, including plant-based natural fibers, animal-based fibers and materials, man-made cellulosic fibers and synthetic fibers, as well as taking a look at sustainability standards, initiatives, and trends. The report finds that the Manmade Cellulosic Fibers category (MMCFs) is increasing steadily with a market share of approx. 6.2% of total fiber production volume, which is double what it was in 1990 and is expected to continue growing. MMCFs include viscose, acetate, lyocell, modal, and cupro.
In the Synthetic Fiber Category for 2018, polyester was reported to have a market share of around 52% of the global fiber production, making it the most widely used fiber worldwide.
In an effort to accelerate the industry’s use of preferred fibers, Textile Exchange initiated a commitment to recycled polyester, one type of preferred polyester that encouraged brands and retailers to publicly commit to increasing their use of recycled polyester by 25% by 2020. This goal was achieved in 2018 - 2 years early!
Karl Mayer: e textiles can compete with printed elecronics
Sensors and conductor tracks can be integrated directly into textiles using innovative technologies, for example in an intelligent warp knitting machine.
At IDTechEx Show! on November 20-21, 2019, in Santa Clara, CA/USA, the textile machinery manufacturer Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH, Obertshausen/Germany, presented a smart shirt for measuring vital body functions. The sensor monitoring technology for the item of clothing is incorporated directly into the made-to-measure textile during production. The warp knitting machine’s string bar technology allow the manufacturer to adapt the expansion, shape and position of the sensitive areas to suit the requirements of the application at hand.
The conference and exhibition attracted around 3,500 visitors from 60 different countries. Over 270 exhibitors and speakers from industrial and research backgrounds competed for the guests’ attention on the program, which included around 270 speeches. The presentations covered all the latest content and issues: energy storage, printed electronics, sensors, the Internet of Things, electro-mobility and wearables.
VDMA: awards for young talents in engineering
On the occasion of the Aachen-Dresden-Denkendorf International Textile Conference (ADD ITC) 2019, which took place in Dresden/Germany from November 28-29, 2019, Peter D. Dornier, member of the Executive Board of the VDMA Textile Machinery Federation, Frankfurt/Germany, and Chairman of the Walter Reiners Foundation for the Promotion of Young Engineers, honored 6 successful young talents.
A promotion prizes for the best dissertation, 2 awards for master and diploma theses as well as 3 awards for clever bachelor and seminar papers were reward with prize money of €5000, €3500 and €3000.
Janina Elser, TU Chemnitz/Germany, Abdelrahman Elbayoumi from the Institute of Textile Technology at RWTH Aachen University (ITA)/Germy and Hendrik Pötzsch from the Institute for Textile Machinery and High-Performance Textile Materials Technology (ITM) in Dresden were honoured with creativity awards for the cleverest bachelor or project work. Janina Elser's bachelor thesis dealt with the prototypical development of circular knitted knee bandages. The subject of Abdelrahman Elbayoumi's bachelor thesis is a feedback control system for an over-braiding process. Hendrik Pötzsch's project work deals with the production of carbon fibers using solvent wet spinning technology.
Tim Kaluza (ITM Dresden) and Julia Eckert (ITA Aachen) were awarded two promotion prizes in the category diploma / master thesis. Tim Kaluza's diploma thesis deals with the automated production of mesh-free multiaxial fibers. In her master thesis, Julia Eckert developed an environmental assessment system for the production of jeans.
The promotion prize of the German Textile Machinery Industry in the dissertation category was awarded to Dr. Stefan Heinrich, TU Chemnitz. He wrote a fundamental work on gear requirements in textile machines, which will make a greater contribution in engineering practice.
The award of the Foundation of the German Textile Machinery Industry is intended to honor young engineers as well as to display the capabilities of German engineering.
Euratex: new strategy for new circular economy action plan for textiles
Committing to an action plan for a new circular economy, the European Apparel and Textile Confederation (Euratex), Brussels/Belgium, has reacted to the anticipated policy guidelines on climate preservation by the European Commission.
The strategy is the result of an extensive, bottom-up consultation with EURATEX members, national and sector associations and more than 100 European companies and other stakeholders. Consisting of 12 key points, 6 conditions and 38 specific proposals in from of 9 actions, the proposed plan is meant to ensure sustainable resource use and tackle urgent environment, social and economic challenges.
Furthermore, Euratex anticipates voluntary commitments subscribed by 41 companies’ CEOs who welcome the ambitious goals of the EU Institutions to tackle urgent challenges, show insights of actions already undertaken to bring circularity in textiles, commit to keep pursuing sustainable resource use, and collaborate.
Euratex will share further information on this action plan as of 2020.
Mayer & Cie.: first own machinery development of Mayer China
A new machine for manufacturing three-thread fleece has been presented by Mayer & Cie. China (MCN) at the Shanghaitex trade fair, held from November 25-28, 2019, in Shanghai/China. The MFC 3.2 is the first in-house development by the Chinese subsidiary of the knitting machine manufacturer Mayer & Cie. GmbH & Co. KG, Albstadt/Germany. It produces light to heavy linings and is specially geared to processing polyester yarn. The MFC 3.2 will be available from spring 2020.
The new Chinese three-thread fleece machine is based on the established Mayer & Cie. MBF 3.2, the qualities of which deliver the goods in the MFC 3.2. They include the high quality of material on both sides of the fabric and the production of challenging weaves. At the same time, the Chinese Mayer & Cie. team attached importance to catering for local requirements, first and foremost processing polyester yarns. Thanks to cam parts developed in-house the new machine performs these tasks reliably and efficiently. At up to 30 rpm on a 30-inch diameter cylinder the MFC 3.2 produces three-thread fleece for sports- and leisurewear.
Lenzing: validation of climate targets by Science Based Targets initiative
The producer of cellulosic fibers, Lenzing AG, Lenzing/Austria, a member of the CEO Climate Leaders Group of the World Economic Forum and a signatory to the United Nations Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action, has announced that it will drastically reduce its CO2 footprint. A first milestone is set for 2030, when Lenzing plans to cut down on CO2 emissions per ton of product by 50% compared to a 2017 baseline. For 2050 Lenzing has announced a vision towards net-zero CO2 emissions.
Now, the Science Based Targets initiative has scientifically validated Lenzing’s climate target. Targets adopted by companies to reduce greenhouse gas emissions are considered “science-based” if they are in line with the level of decarbonization required to keep global temperature increase below 2°C compared to pre-industrial temperatures. Lenzing is the first wood-based fiber producer that has set a science-based target.
Currently, 713 leading companies worldwide and 9 companies in Austria have committed to science-based targets. Only 305 of them have approved science-based targets.
HeiQ: curtains reduce indoor air pollutants
The supplier of finishing technology, HeiQ Materials AG, Zurich/Switzerland, has added a new dimension to air management in the HeiQ Fresh product range – air purifying functionality that will be used in curtains from IKEA BV, Leiden/Netherlands, to reduce indoor air pollutants such as the volatile organic compounds (VOCs) acetaldehyde, formaldehyde and nitrogen oxide (NO).
The Gunrid curtain, which will be available in 2020 from IKEA, looks like an ordinary curtain but purifies indoor air because it is infused with HeiQ Fresh Air. This mineral-based technology purifies the indoor air by using transmitted ultraviolet (UV) light from the sun to transform problematic VOCs into components of fresh air.
By working closely with the Leibniz University, Hannover/Germany, test norms have been selected, capable of characterizing the air purifying performance of fabrics infused with HeiQ Fresh Air.
The internationally recognized norms are: ISO 22197-1 for NO and ISO 22197-2 for Acetaldehyde, the modified ISO 17299 to measure percentage reduction of VOCs as well as the modified ISO 10678 as a quick quality control test for mills.
Freudenberg: South American hygiene segment sold
The hygiene market has been evolving form regional to global scales. Taking this into account, the producer of technical textiles Freudenberg Performance Materials Holding SE & Co. KG, Weinheim/Germany, has sold its South American branch of hygiene products to the manufacturer of nonwoven fabrics Fitesa, Gravataí/Brazil. Concentrating efforts on other branches, Freudenberg will provide Fitesa with state-of-the-art production facility.
At Freudenberg Hygiene Brazil Ltda., Jacareí/Brazil, Freudenberg has been active in Brazil since 1985, with up to 100 employees. Authorities have yet to permit the transaction.
Freudenberg’s South American business in clothing as well as shoes and leathers will not be affected by this disposal.
Pharr: sale of fibers and yarn segment
The provider of differentiated textile products and assorted real estate businesses, Pharr LLC, McAdenville, NC/USA, has reached agreements to sell 3 of its subsidiaries.
The industrial yarn and consumer textile crafts business Coats Plc., Uxbridge/UK, will purchase Pharr High Performance, a yarn supplier for the protective apparel industry, while the manufacturer of residential and commercial floorcovering, Mannington Mills, Inc., Salem, NJ/USA, will purchase Pharr Fibers & Yarns and Phenix Flooring, suppliers of yarns, residential carpet and specialty flooring products. The acquisitions are expected to close in early 2020.
Both companies plan to retain Pharr’s workforce and continue operations at its manufacturing facilities in McAdenville and Dalton, GA/USA. With the addition of Pharr High Performance, Coats will have 6 North Carolina manufacturing sites located in McAdenville, Kings Mountain, Marion and Hendersonville as well as its corporate office in Charlotte.
The acquisitions of Pharr Fibers & Yarns and Phenix Flooring will help establish Mannington as one of the largest suppliers in the floor covering industry, participating in both residential and commercial hard and soft surface categories.
The acquisitions will not affect Pharr’s 2 remaining divisions, Belmont Land & Investment Company, developer of residential and commercial real estate and hotels, and Strand Hospitality Services, which manages a portfolio of hotel properties throughout the Southeast USA.