From the Sector

The KARL MAYER GROUP and the Südwolle Group have joined forces in a project to explore the possibilities of merino wool for warp knitting technology. The project was triggered by the increasing demand for textiles made from sustainable and environmentally friendly materials. The cooperation was to develop innovative fabrics from renewable raw materials for use in underwear and functional sportswear. The focus of the work was on the use of wool as a material with excellent comfort properties and the look and feel of lightweight single jersey goods. The natural fiber fabric qualities are not typical for warp knitting processing, so the challenges during the project work were diverse.

Merino wool yarns with good running properties
Regarding the choice of material, the product development team of Südwolle Group recommended the Hidalgo yarn from their product portfolio. The yarn was created using the in-house developed Betaspun technology, in which a filament was twisted around a merino core. When natural fibres such as wool, cotton or silk are combined with sustainable fibres such as biodegradable polyamide as the filament, the spinning process can create durable, lightweight yarns that disintegrate completely without residue after use. The yarns made from the two components also have good running properties for use in warp knitting. "The polyamide content of the yarn increases its tenacity, reduces hairiness and makes it an excellent choice for warp knitting technology," confirmed Gabriela Schellner from KARL MAYER's Textile Product Development Department.

Shape stability paired with single jersey "look and feel"
The Hidalgo yarn, which is made from merino wool, was processed on a warp knitting machine using a carefully thought-out lapping selection to produce a light, soft fabric which, above all, retains its shape. The textile specialists at KARL MAYER had experimented with two different single bar fabric qualities beforehand and had thus adopted a new approach for jersey machines.

The first results are promising. Now more trials are needed to perfect the technique. Development partners are needed, including fabric producers, brands, and garment manufacturers, with whom the fabric qualities, machine equipment and orientation to the end applications can be refined. The KARL MAYER GROUP and the Südwolle Group are also unanimous in their desire to push the boundaries of what is possible with merino wool and knitting technology and to develop new solutions for the textile industry through further project work.

RadiciGroup took part in the Phygital Sustainability Expo, this year in its fourth edition, which was held in Rome on 5 and 6 July. This event is entirely dedicated to the ecological transition of fashion and design brands through technological innovation. The show is an important platform for discussion on sustainable transition issues, involving Italian and international brands, fashion tech start-ups, representatives from the institutional, business and educational fields, and consumers.

RadiciGroup's participation in the event was further evidence of the Group's commitment to making a contribution to sustainability and circularity in the fashion and textile industry, in collaboration with all the other players in the supply chain. During the narrated fashion show, held on the evening of Wednesday, 5 July, in the evocative archaeological complex of the Imperial Forum Museum, RadiciGroup presented a maxi dress made of Biofeel® eleven, a yarn of completely natural origin featuring high technical, aesthetic and environmental performance. This yarn is produced starting from a small bean cultivated in India on semi-arid land and thus does not compete with human food production. These beans yield a special oil ideal for obtaining biopolymers, such as the one produced by Arkema and spun into yarn at RadiciGroup in Italy.

The dress is not only made from a low environmental impact raw material, but is also an example of ecodesign: the garment was realized on a Shima Seiki WholeGarment knitting machine, where the entire item was knit directly from spools of Biofeel® eleven yarn, bypassing the traditional stages of weaving and tailoring. It is a zero-waste process, as only the quantity of yarn strictly needed for the garment is used.

Biofeel® eleven yarn endows the dress with unique characteristics, including low moisture absorption, greater lightness and high resistance and durability. Besides being 100% biobased, the yarn is also 100% recyclable because it is made of a mono-material polymer, which facilitates its end-of-life recycling and processing into new materials suitable for any application requiring high performance.

2XL Corporation, Avgol Nonwovens, and Yowel to compete for Award
INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announced the three finalists for the World of Wipes Innovation Award®. The Award will be presented at the 17th annual World of Wipes® (WOW) International Conference, July 17-20, at the Atlanta Marriott Marquis in Atlanta, Georgia.    

The three products vying for this Award are a cleaning and disinfecting device from 2XL Corporation, a wipe utilizing biotransformation technology from Avgol Nonwovens, and a reusable towel dispensing system from Yowel.

The winner will be announced on July 20th at 11 am. The three companies competing for the Award are:

Windup by 2XL Corporation
Meet the Windup: a groundbreaking new device that can clean and disinfect your home using a self-advancing microfiber roll that you never have to touch. Just one roll will clean your kitchen over 50 times. An innovative one-touch revolving roll and a versatile spray system that allows use of your favorite floor cleaner or our specially formulated disinfecting solution. No more stopping to change expensive pads or change filthy water. Get wound up for Windup.

Nonwoven wipe using biotransformation technology by Avgol Nonwovens
This innovative spunlace wipe utilized advanced biotransformation technology developed jointly by Indorama Ventures and Polymateria. Meeting the BSI PAS 9017 specification, this wipe in the event it becomes fugitive, and exposed to heat, sunlight, air and moisture will transform into a harmless, bioavailable wax at its end-of-life, eliminating microplastic pollution. Compatible with mechanical recycling and combatting ‘fugitive’ waste, this wipe represents a significant leap towards eco-friendly, sustainable nonwoven hygiene products.

The Yowel™ System by Yowel
Ready to help the earth and save money…every day? Yowel is a patented system for dispensing reusable towels. Instead of a roll of paper towels, place a Yowel full of reusable towels into your paper towel holder – or choose the countertop model, and you’re immediately reducing your paper towel consumption.  The Yowel System has 40 reusable towels and a mesh bag for used towels. Save money and help Mother Nature.

INDA’s Technical Advisory Board selected the finalists based on the creativity, uniqueness, and technical sophistication employed in finding novel ways to expand the utilization of nonwovens. Categories considered for the award were wipes related raw materials, roll goods, converting, packaging, active ingredients, binders, additives, and end-use products.

Nice-Pak’s SecureFLUSH® Technology Flushable Wipes received the 2022 World of Wipes Innovation Award for their unique, 100% cellulose nonwoven that is strong enough to clean, yet break apart rapidly, when flushed. A specialty “lock and key” design of plant-based fibers and formula leverages patent-pending technology to break apart five times faster than the leading brand of two-ply toilet paper and ensure responsible care of plumbing and wastewater. SecureFLUSH® Technology Flushable wipes are available in Walmart, Amazon, and at Nicencleanwipes.com.

With combined regional, global, and industry specific expertise, the Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) will make its debut from 28 February – 1 March 2024. Following the signing of a memorandum of understanding (MOU) in late March, Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE) announced the new international fair for the entire textile value chain. The three-day platform will be staged at the Saigon Exhibition and Convention Center (SECC), Ho Chi Minh City.

Commenting on the new event, Ms Wendy Wen, Managing Director of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd, said: “With Intertextile Apparel in Shanghai a prime example, our Texpertise Network provides the ideal global framework from which to launch this diverse, comprehensive platform for the integrated textile supply chain. VIATT itself will capture the essence of Texpertise in one platform – a diverse, one-stop sourcing event for buyers across all categories, from garments, fabrics, yarns and fibres, to textile machinery, technical textiles and nonwovens, and everything in between.”

Discussing the event’s potential, Mr Le Hoang Tai, Deputy Director General of the Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE), said: “Vietnam is one of the world’s leading textile producers and exporters, and going from strength to strength as one of Southeast Asia’s manufacturing hubs. Our establishment has many years of experience organising trade fairs throughout Vietnam, and together with Messe Frankfurt we are excited to help international fairgoers unlock the potential of the country’s fast-growing textile market. In addition, Ho Chi Minh City’s accessibility, and Vietnam’s proximity to other leading textile-producing nations such as Bangladesh, Cambodia, China and India, make it the logical venue to host an event of this nature.”

Many international textile manufacturers have been expanding operations into Vietnam, augmenting an already strong domestic industry. According to the Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (VITAS), the country’s textile and garment industry achieved staggering annual growth of 20 – 26% from 2018 – 2022. Participation in international trade agreements such as the Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP), the Comprehensive and Progressive Agreement for Trans-Pacific Partnership (CPTPP), the EU–Vietnam Free Trade Agreement (EVFTA), and the Indo-Pacific Economic Framework for Prosperity (IPEF)[2], bodes well for future growth.

As one of the world’s biggest importers of textile machinery, and a consistent importer of fabrics, yarns and fibres, garment production is the cornerstone of Vietnam’s industry. The country utilises cotton and functional materials to produce casualwear, childrenswear, swimwear, workwear, and much more, with sportswear an especially fast-growing category, and high-utility garments expected to achieve high exports.

By linking textile players from across Asia, Europe and beyond with this market, VIATT 2024 is willing to play an important part in shaping the future of Vietnam’s industry. Next year’s fair will host an extensive mix of international and domestic exhibitors covering multiple textile sub-sectors, including garments, apparel fabrics and accessories, yarns and fibres, digital printing, home textiles, technical textiles and nonwovens, textile processing, textile machinery, and more.

Exhibitors and buyers can utilise the fair’s global business matchmaking service, where connections are made based on the specific needs of each party. In addition to the fair’s main function as an international trading platform, its fringe programme will facilitate participants’ networking with industry leaders and offer diverse market insights via various seminars, forums, and panel discussions.

The Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE). Covering the entire textile industry value chain, the inaugural edition will be held from 28 February – 1 March 2024 at the Saigon Exhibition and Convention Center (SECC), Ho Chi Minh City.

Trevira CS is exhibiting for the first time at CSI Miami (Cruise Ship Interiors Design Expo Americas). Taking place on 6 – 7 June, 2023 at the Miami Beach Convention Center, CSI will bring together buyers and suppliers involved in cruise ship interiors, including interior designers, architects, outfitters, shipyards and suppliers.
 
On the Trevira CS stand, visitors can get an idea of the wide range of flame retardant fabrics suitable for use on board cruise ships. 53 fabrics from 20 Trevira CS customers will be on display that either have IMO certification and/or have been tested to the fire safety standards (FTP Code) required in the marine sector. Trevira CS fabrics are inherently flame retardant, meaning that their flame retardant properties cannot be washed out or lost through aging or use. This is due to the chemical structure of the polyester fiber: the flame retardant properties are firmly anchored in the fiber and cannot be altered by external influences. A surface-applied flame retardant finish is therefore not necessary.

In the marine sector, the demands placed on textiles are not only high in terms of fire protection, but also with regards to light resistance and durability. This is particularly true for textiles used in outdoor applications. These must be extremely robust, as they are exposed to moisture and sunlight. To meet these requirements, Trevira CS has launched a range of 30 new spun-dyed, UV-stable filament yarns. Besides color depth and durability, spun-dyed yarns offer another advantage: They are more sustainable because the fabrics made from them can be produced in a more environmentally friendly way than textiles that are dyed in one piece or consist of brightly colored yarns. In fabric production, a large share of resource consumption goes to the dyeing and finishing of fabrics as well as the use of chemicals and water. However, with spun-dyed yarns, these processing steps are unnecessary – the yarn immediately comes out of the spinneret in the desired color, reducing the products’ environmental impact.

The topic of sustainability is also taken up in other Trevira CS products. For example, Trevira CS fabrics are available in recycled versions. They consist of fiber and filament yarns obtained in different recycling processes. Filament yarns are produced using recycled PET bottles, they contain 50% post-consumer recycled material. Recycled fibers are obtained using an agglomeration plant and in further processing steps from residual pre-consumer waste from production. They consist of 100% recycled material (pre-consumer recycling). All flame retardant recycled Trevira® products are GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified.
Fabrics made from these yarns are marked with the Trevira CS eco trademark. The prerequisite for this is a recycled content of at least 50%. Among the fabrics presented at the Trevira CS trade fair stand are 8 fabrics bearing the Trevira CS eco brand.

The long-term goal in developing sustainable products is undoubtedly to enter a circular economy. For this new path, an innovative Trevira CS product development was launched, producing flame retardant fibers and filament yarns from chemically recycled raw material. In this case, the basic raw material for the chemical recycling was PET bottles, but essentially it could be most any other PET recyclables, such as packaging material or even textiles. Chemical recycling involves depolymerization, a sequence of chemical reactions in which the polymer chains are broken down again into their original components, i. e. the monomers. In a further processing step, impurities are removed. Before the polymerization process is initiated, a small amount of MEG (mono ethylene glycol) is added.

The same technology used to produce the original (virgin) raw material for Trevira CS is also used here. The flame retardant modification is added during polymerization. In this way, the flame retardant properties are indelibly anchored in the polymer.

By recycling valuable materials such as packaging material, waste can be avoided. The raw material obtained from the recycling process is comparable to the original material can be used again in high-quality products.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwovens Fabrics Industry, announces the publication of a new study, North American Nonwoven Materials Annual Study 2022.

Based on actual surveys and interviews with producers, enhancing the accuracy and relevance, this study tracks machine additions, closures, and productivity improvements. This study is the industry benchmark for capacity and production information for North America and the only publication that provides an estimate of operating rates, based on nameplate machine capacity, through the year 2022. The 72-page study contains 43 figures and 11 tables.

“An element of INDA’s mission is to provide credible statistics to the nonwovens and engineered materials industry,” said Tony Fragnito, INDA President. “Our objective is to continually improve the quality of data and industry information. We feel the industry will greatly benefit from this in-depth resource for strategic planning and investment purposes,” Fragnito added.

The complete study is provided to producers who supplied key metrics. The Executive Summary, an overview of the findings and implications, will be offered to current INDA members on a complimentary basis.

The detailed study is available for purchase, with members receiving a discount.

Findings from this year’s study include:

• North American capacity continues to increase with investments being made across all the processes and for a variety of end-uses. The industry’s nameplate capacity utilization has increased year-over-year, for the fifth consecutive year.
• In 2022, capacity of nonwovens in North America reached 5.565 million tonnes, an increase from the previous year of 2.4% (net growth of 128,700 tonnes) and an improvement over the previous year’s growth rate of 1.8%.
• North American imports, in tonnage, decreased 24.3% in 2022 and exports decreased 16.3% due to market stabilization after COVID. Nonwoven production tends to stay within the region, so the net trade balance (imports less exports) accounted for less than 5.5% of the region’s capacity.

“2022 was a period of economic adjustment and stabilization,” said Mark Snider, Chief Market & Industry Analyst. “We’re seeing a controlled and consistent transition back to pre-pandemic levels of nonwoven growth.”

"ITA Aachen and ITA Augsburg are part of the ITA Group International Centre for Sustainable Textiles. Experience our textile innovations at two exhibition booths," explains ITA Institute Director Professor Dr. Thomas Gries. "See our ring spinning tester at booth H3-B304, which spins recycled fibres sustainably and individually in a previously impossible fineness. In addition, there is digital yarn monitoring, which enables new market potentials. Get an idea of the Recycling Atelier of ITA Augsburg at booth H3-A207 and see the textile cycle from used textile to solution steps for industrial implementation together with industry partners. Join us on the Walk4Recycling and follow the path from used textile to a new knitted pullover on a tour of the trade fair. This is how we live up to our claim as the ITA Group: sustainable - digital - individual."

ITA Aachen - Digital ring spinning tester for recycled fibres enables spinning of fine yarns with high recycled fibres content
The Institut für Textiltechnik of RWTH Aachen University (ITA) will be exhibiting a digital ring spinning tester, which spins recycled fibres directly and conventionally with a particularly high content of 60-70 percent. Up to now, recycled yarns have mainly been rotor-spun in this blend ratio. This results in rather coarse yarns and is not suitable for finer textiles such as outerwear. Ring spinning of recycled yarns now enables the spinning of finer yarns and thus a higher application level for recycled materials.

A unique selling point of the ITA ring spinning tester is the simultaneous spinning in the direct spinning process from the sliver and in the classic ring spinning process. For this purpose, the strength and elongation of the spun yarn are determined online and digitally for the first time. The real-time measurement allows process parameters and yarn properties to be adjusted iteratively and quickly. The ring spinning tester was upgraded from an existing tester to Industry 4.0 standard and is operated via a tablet. Operation via tablet enables the adjustment of process parameters including online quality monitoring remotely from anywhere in the world.
 
For this purpose, the ring spinning tester is also able to produce fine ring spun yarns. These yarns made from recycled material opens up a multitude of further fields of application for woven and knitted goods. Now, for example, clothing and technical textiles can be made from recycled material, the production of which was not possible before - such as outerwear made from recycled material. The development of new industries and fields of application opens up new market potential for recycled yarns - also and especially for processing in Europe. This creates the opportunity to preserve key technologies and jobs in cost-intensive locations.

ITA Augsburg - Recycling Atelier: Walk4Recycling
The Recycling Atelier of the Institut für Textiltechnik Augsburg gGmbH on stand H3-A207 presents the textile recycling from used textiles into new products via the various process steps and, together with the industrial partners, opens up solution paths for industrial implementation.

Under the headline "Walk4Recycling", a tour of the fair shows the cycle of used textiles from used knitwear into a new knitted pullover via a ring yarn made from a blend of 65 percent recycled cotton and 35 percent virgin polyester. The key innovation here is the high proportion of recycled fibres from post-consumer textiles for a ring yarn of this fineness. Today, mainly coarse rotor yarns for low-quality textiles are spun from these materials. The industrial partners participating in the Walk4Recycling are partners of the Recycling Atelier and contribute with their technologies to the fact that fibre material from old clothes can be processed in various process stages into a yarn of new value and high-quality ready-made garments.

The Walk4Recycling offers visitors the opportunity to experience a complete recycling cycle with the numerous process stages from tearing the old textiles, preparing and spinning the fibres and knitting a new jumper live during the fair. Get detailed information on the mechanical recycling of clothing via QR code, website and flyer about the participating exhibitors and their machines and technologies. A short movie will give you additional insights into the various processes involved in the production of the jumper.

Viscose speciality fibre manufacturer Kelheim Fibres, nonwoven producer Sandler, and hygiene product manufacturer pelzGROUP have jointly developed a new panty liner that is plastic-free according to the European Single-Use Plastics Directive (SUPD). This innovative solution is a step towards reducing the amount of plastic in hygiene products – and thus also a contribution to tackling the problem of plastic pollution.

According to a UNEP study on marine litter and microplastics, eight million tons of plastic end up in the oceans every year. A significant portion of this pollution comes from single-use plastic products, including conventional period products such as pads or panty liners.

The partnership between the three companies was formed under the Open Innovation principle, which allowed for creative idea exchange and facilitated the development of an innovative product. According to Jessica Zeitler, R&D Specialist at Sandler, “Our collaboration with Kelheim Fibres and pelzGROUP is a great example of how companies can work together to create solutions that benefit both the environment and consumers. We are proud to be part of this project and the opportunities it offers.”

For hygiene product manufacturer pelzGROUP, it is important to combine sustainability and performance to achieve broad acceptance in the market. “Our panty liner meets the strict requirements of the European Single-Use Plastics Directive (SUPD) while also matching the performance of conventional synthetic products. At the same time, our new panty liner has a completely European supply chain. This means short distances and therefore low CO2 emissions, and – especially in times of global disruption – reliability for our customers,” emphasizes Dr. Henning Röttger, Head of Business Development at pelzGROUP.

"Our viscose speciality fibres are an environmentally friendly and high-performance alternative to synthetic materials," says Dominik Mayer, Project Manager Fibre & Application Development at Kelheim Fibres. "They are at the very beginning of the product value chain and yet have an enormous impact on the functionality of the end product. Open innovation allows us to bring all partners in the value chain to the table, to find the best solution together in a very short time and bring it to commercialisation - the collaboration with Sandler and pelzGROUP is an important milestone in our AHP journey."

On the sidelines of the Intertextile Shanghai fair, the Swedish textile-to-textile recycling innovator Renewcell and the leading Chinese viscose manufacturer Tangshan Sanyou announced the next step in their partnership to make fashion circular that stretches back to 2018.

The two companies’ new shared ambition is to offer manufacturers and brands Circulose® viscose fibers made from 100% recycled textiles in commercial quantities starting in 2024. The collaboration has been facilitated by Ekman Group, Renewcell’s exclusive global trading partner.

“I am very happy to announce this acceleration of our long-standing partnership with Tangshan Sanyou. They were the first commercial producer of Circulose®-based fibers in the world, and the first to commit to sourcing significant volumes from us. Now, they aim to also be the first to commercialize 100% Circulose® content fibers” said Patrik Lundström, CEO of Renewcell, adding "I applaud Tangshan Sanyou’s vision and support to scaling next gen raw materials like Circulose®.”

The announcement, which follows the recent start of deliveries of 100% recycled textile Circulose® pulp from Renewcell’s newly opened Renewcell 1 recycling plant, is the result of successful validation of Circulose®’s quality in production at Tangshan Sanyou’s commercial-scale manufacturing lines. Tangshan Sanyou would strive to finish the mission of producing commercial volumes of 50% Circulose® content fibers during 2023 and work towards achieving the delivery of 100% Circulose® content branded viscose fibers to selected fashion brands and manufacturers starting in 2024. The two companies will cooperate to market the fibers globally using Renewcell’s Circulose® ingredient brand name.

Mr. Zhang Dongbin, Executive Vice General Manager of Tangshan Sanyou Chemical Fiber, says, "Through the collaboration with Renewcell, we have achieved to use Circulose® made from recycled cotton in the production of our viscose fibers, which is great beneficial to improving resource utilization efficiency and lowering carbon footprint of the industry. It has brought a huge impact in the sustainable fashion industry. We will continue putting efforts in forming good interaction between consumers, brands and enterprises, convey the concept of circular sustainable fashion, promote the greening of textile industry, and ensure a more sustainable way to ensure the sustainable development of the textile industry. Protecting the global ecological environment by applying sustainable solutions is our common goal."

• Sales increase of 12.8% to €1,135.9 million
• EBITDApre improves by 23.4% to €172.8 million
• Net financial debt reduced from €206.3 million to €170.8 million
• Fiscal 2023 expected to be investment and stabilization year

SGL Carbon was again able to improve sales and earnings in fiscal year 2022 following 2021. All four business units contributed to this success.
Sales in fiscal 2022 increased by 12.8% year-on-year to €1,135.9 million (previous year: €1,007.0 million). The rise in sales was mainly due to both volume effects and the successful implementation of pricing initiatives to compensate higher raw material, energy and transport prices. At 23.4%, adjusted EBITDA (EBITDApre) improved at a higher rate than sales and amounted to €172.8 million in fiscal 2022 (previous year: €140.0 million). Increased sales and the associated higher capacity utilization also contributed to the improvement in earnings, as well as focusing on market segments with higher margin potential.
 
Earnings development of SGL Carbon
The increase in EBITDApre by €32.8 million to €172.8 million was mainly driven by the Graphite Solutions business unit (+€30.6 million). The Composite Solutions (+€7.9 million) and Process Technology (+€5.2 million) business units also contributed to the improvement in profitability. Although the Carbon Fibers business unit was able to offset the loss of a lucrative supply contract with an automotive customer in terms of sales with new orders from the wind energy sector, but these sales showed a significantly lower margin level. Accordingly, EBITDApre of this business unit decreased by €11.2 million to €43.2 million (previous year: €54.5 million).

Taking into account net one-off effects and non-recurring items of €8.9 million (previous year: €30.7 million) and depreciation and amortization of €60.8 million (previous year: €60.3 million), reported EBIT amounted to €120.9 million (2021: €110.4 million). This corresponds to an increase of 9.5%.
As a result of the pleasing business performance, the successes of the transformation and non-operating one-off effects and non-recurring items (€8.9 million), a positive Group’s net profit of €126.9 million (previous year: €75.4 million) was achieved in 2022. It should be noted that consolidated net income includes tax income of €31.3 million (previous year: minus €6.2 million). This development is mainly due to valuation adjustments on deferred tax assets amounting to €41.8 million, based on the good business development combined with positive earnings prospects in the USA. Current tax expenses amounted to €11.4 million in 2022 (previous year: €11.9 million).
 
Net financial debt and equity
In fiscal 2022, net financial debt was reduced significantly by 17.2% to €170.8 million compared with the end of 2021 (€206.3 million). The main reason for the decrease is the repayment of financial liabilities in the amount of €29.0 million. Free cash flow decreased from €111.5 million to €67.8 million in 2022. In this context, it should be taken into account that in the previous year, free cash flow included cash inflows of €30.6 million from the sale of land not required for operations.
After 2021, the equity ratio increased again to 38.5% at the end of 2022 (previous year: 27.0% I 2020: 17.5%). Due to the significantly improved earnings situation, the return on capital employed (ROCE) also rose from 8.0% in the previous year to 11.3% in 2022.
 
Development of the business units
As the largest business unit with a share of Group sales of around 45%, Graphite Solutions contributed €512.2 million to Group sales in 2022 (previous year: €443.6 million). The 15.5% increase in sales is based in particular on the positive development of the important market segments Semiconductor & LED and Industrial Applications. Compared to the previous year, sales to customers in the semiconductor & LED industry increased by 49.6%, driven in particular by increasing demand of materials and components for the production of silicon carbide-based high-performance semiconductors. Combined with the increase in sales, GS EBITDApre improved by 34.8% to €118.5 million (previous year: €87.9 million). Accordingly, the EBITDApre margin increased from 19.8% to 23.1%. Volume effects due to higher sales as well as margin effects from the product and customer mix had a positive impact.  Especially the higher sales with customers from the semiconductor industry should be taken into account.

In fiscal 2022, the Process Technology (PT) business unit benefited from the good order situation in recent months and increased its sales by 21.9% to €106.3 million. The main clients of the PT business unit are customers from the chemical industry. The positive development of PT is also reflected in EBITDApre which rose from €4.7 million in the same period of the previous year to €9.9 million. Higher capacity utilization and the successful passing on of increased raw material costs led to an improvement in the EBITDApre margin from 5.4%  to 9.3% in 2022. Energy costs play only a minor role at PT.

In the reporting year, sales of the Carbon Fibers (CF) business unit increased by 3.0% to €347.2 million (previous year: €337.2 million). It should be noted that CF had to absorb the scheduled expiry of a supply contract with an automotive customer at the end of June 2022. These sales were offset by orders from the wind industry and Industrial Applications. However, EBITDApre in the CF division decreased by 20.7% year-on-year to €43.2 million (previous year: €54.5 million). This earnings development is mainly attributable to the expiry of the high-margin automotive contract. In addition, a special effect from energy derivatives in the amount of minus €9.2 million impacted CF earnings in the 1st quarter of 2022. However, the implemented energy price hedges enabled the business unit to maintain its production capability throughout the entire fiscal year, that the weakening of earnings was mitigated.
The Composite Solutions (CS) business unit confirmed its upward trend in fiscal 2022 with a 25.0% increase in sales to €153.1 million (previous year: €122.5 million). The most important market segment for the CS business unit is the automotive industry. In line with the highly positive business performance, EBITDApre of CS increased by 65.3% to €20.0 million (previous year: €12.1 million). This figure also includes non-recurring positive effects of €3.7 million from compensation payments received from automotive customers for premature project terminations.

The non-operating Corporate segment contributed €17.1 million to Group sales (previous year: €16.5 million). In line with continued strict cost management as part of the transformation, EBITDApre improved slightly to minus €18.8 million (previous year: minus €19.2 million).

Outlook
"If we summarize our expectations for the 2023 financial year, it can be summed up under the guiding principle: -invest and stabilize," CFO Thomas Dippold comments on the forecast for 2023.
For the fiscal year 2023 we continue to expect solid demand for our materials and products. In particular, we expect that the demand for special graphite products for high-temperature processes, e.g. in the semiconductor, solar and LED industries, will continue to increase. On the other hand, the first-time full-year effect from the expiry of a supply contract with an automotive customer in the carbon fiber segment and the sale of our business in Gardena (USA) will burden sales development.

"The increasing demand for high-performance semiconductors for electromobility or renewable forms of energy will also boost the demand of components made of graphite for the production of these semiconductors. To benefit from the related opportunities, we will expand our production capacities in this segment and invest a double-digit million amount in 2023 . Based on existing supply relationships, we will implement this investments partly together with our customers," explains CEO Dr. Torsten Derr.
On the cost side, we expect energy and raw material prices to remain at a high level in 2023, along with significant wage increases. Our forecast implies that higher factor costs can be partially passed on to customers through price initiatives.
Based on the assumptions described, we expect Group sales to be at prior-year level and EBITDApre to be between €160 million and €180 million in the financial year 2023.
In the medium term (until 2027), we anticipate a further improvement in our EBITDApre margin between 18% and 19%.