From the Sector

Wülfing GmbH is one of the oldest but also one of the most modern home textiles companies in Germany, with its main weaving and finishing operations located in Borken, North Rhine-Westphalia, and a further jacquard weaving mill in Steinfurt, as well as with a making up and packaging plant in the Czech Republic.

At its Borken plant, Wülfing has employed a Monforts sanforizing line since 2009 to guarantee the required dimensional stability and shrink-fastness of its high quality bed linen. With a working width of over three metres, the sanforizing process is a central pillar in the production of typical wide-width cotton fabrics for home textiles.

In 2017, the company was able to acquire a second Monforts sanforizing line from another company which, although built in 2005, had been virtually unused. It was overhauled and installed behind a Monforts equalizing frame of a similar age.

“Unfortunately, the two machines had to be operated separately via individual controls and did not represent an integrated unit,” says Schulte-Mesum. “This resulted in deficits in the desired productivity and in the control technology.”

Wülfing consulted with Monforts on a number of upgrade options and opted for a completely new joint control system to merge the two machines, as well as a new connecting inlet, a tensioning and damping field and a steaming unit.

“Monforts provided a fast and precise erection and commissioning of the technology in spite of the difficult pandemic circumstances,” says Schulte-Mesum. “The result has been an increase in production speeds by 20% and enhanced uniformity in fabric width through a much improved guidance system.

“We are also achieving energy savings as a result of the new control and drive technology and operation has been simplified and improved as a result of the unified control. We benefit from simplified access for maintenance work such as the grinding of the rubber blanket, but most of all we have greatly improved our flexibility and now have two almost identical Monforts sanforizing lines.”

• Blauer Engel gibt verlässliche Orientierung für den Konsum nachhaltiger Textilien
• Neonyt erneut digital vom 5. bis 9. Juli 2021

Das staatliche Umweltzeichen Blauer Engel für Textilien (DE-UZ 154) ist dieses Jahr erneut mit einem virtuellen Stand auf der Frankfurter Modemesse Neonyt vertreten, die digital vom 5. bis zum 9. Juli stattfinden wird. Das Ziel der Messe lautet, einen Transformationsprozess der Textil- und Modebranche einzuleiten und die Industrie zu wandeln: Modethemen wie Ästhetik, Trends, Lifestyle sollen mit Nachhaltigkeit, Digitalisierung und Innovation verschmelzen. Der Blaue Engel unterstützt dieses Anliegen: Produkte, die mit dem Umweltzeichen für Textilien zertifiziert sind, erfüllen hohe Umweltstandards. Sie wurden ohne gesundheitsgefährdende Chemikalien hergestellt und weisen gute Gebrauchseigenschaften auf.

Hersteller, Unternehmen und Marken, die ihre Produkte mit dem Blauen Engel zertifizieren, leisten damit nicht nur einen Beitrag für eine nachhaltigere Gestaltung der Modeindustrie, sondern erleichtern auch Verbraucher*innen eine ökologische Kaufentscheidung. Das Siegel stellt Anforderungen an den gesamten Produktionsweg und deckt sowohl Natur- als auch Kunstfasertextilien ab.

Die Teilnahme des Umweltzeichens Blauer Engel für Textilien bedeutet somit nicht nur die Möglichkeit das eigene Zeichen zu bewerben, sondern auch mit Textil- und Modeexpert*innen, Kreativen, Labels und Fashion Week-Neulingen in Diskurs zu treten. Als Vertreterin des Blauen Engels nimmt Frau Dr. Kristin Stechemesser vom Umweltbundesamt an einer Gesprächsrunde zum Thema Siegel und Zertifizierung teil. Diskutiert werden hier unter anderem Fragen zur Zielgruppe des Blauen Engels für Textilen, zu aktuellen und künftigen Herausforderungen für Labels im Textilbereich sowie zu Wachstumschancen und Hemmnissen für nachhaltige Mode.

Die Veranstaltung ist interdisziplinär angelegt, Partner*innen aus Politik, Handel, Industrie und Medien haben ihr Programm gemeinsam entworfen. Pandemiebedingt wird es auch dieses Jahr digital durchgeführt und per Stream übertragen. Nach Beendigung der Messe werden alle Talks, Master Classes, Keynotes und Präsentationen online zur Verfügung stehen.

We aRe Spin Dye (WRSD) AB (publ) (“WRSD”) has entered into a collaboration agreement with the Norwegian brand Stokke®. Stokke AS, a Norwegian manufacturer of children's furniture and accessories, is well known among parents of young children, since their mission is to manufacture products that strengthen the bond between parent and child.

Stokke is known for creating products that are designed to last a lifetime. High production standards, durable and robust materials, flexibility and adjustment options, together with timeless design, is a guarantee of long life for Stokke's products.

Andreas Andrén, CEO of We aRe SpinDye views the collaboration with Stokke as a very exciting agreement with great potential:
-"Of course, our resource-efficient dyeing method is at the center of this collaboration. I have three children myself and as a parent of small children I know how important it is to have sustainable products. We aRe SpinDye will now be extending the life of Stokke's products. As a result of our textile fiber being homogeneously colored, our fabrics' test values are at the top for what is called "colorfastness to light". Our fabrics are thus bleached considerably less than conventionally dyed fabrics."

Janne Muri, project manager at Stokke for this collaboration, explains Stokke's view on sustainability.
"By taking care of our children, we also protect our planet. We strive for sustainable solutions in everything we do. High quality, sustainable materials and opportunities to adapt the products as the child grows, together with a timeless design, give our products a long lifespan that can last for generations. And with these core values in our group, it feels completely natural that we start a collaboration with We aRe SpinDye."

Lectra finalizes June 1^st, the acquisition of all outstanding shares of Gerber Technology, on a cash-free debt-free basis, for 175 million euros – financed through a 140 million euro loan and the Group's available cash – plus 5 million newly issued Lectra shares to AIPCF VI LG, Gerber Technology’s sole shareholder.

This strategic combination, of which all stages have now been successfully completed, has led to the creation of a leading global Industry 4.0 player for the fashion, automotive and furniture markets.

“The union of our respective innovative expertise, our state-of-the-art offers and our talented resources will enable us to bring long-term value to our customers. We will now be in an even better position to support our customers throughout the world in accelerating the digital transformation of their operations,” says Daniel Harari, Chairman and CEO of Lectra.

This acquisition, which was announced on February 8, was approved by Lectra’s Board of Directors on March 25 and by Lectra’s shareholders June, 1.

drapilux 117 comes in 120 colours. The piece dyer also improves the room acoustics thanks to the intelligent additional function drapilux akustik. Additionally it’s possible to equip the fabric with drapilux antimicrobial. This function acts against viruses, bacteria and fungi on  the  textile  surface,  thus  contributing  to  the  hygiene  chain.  With  its comprehensive colour palette, the acoustic fabric is versatile and can be used in hotels as well as in schools, offices and the healthcare sector.

International technology Group ANDRITZ has successfully started up a new batt forming line at Romatex Home Textiles (Pty) Ltd., based in Cape Town, one of the largest household textile manufacturers in South Africa. The line is dedicated to the production of Maliwatt products used in a wide range of applications, including home textiles, construction, geotextiles, medical, footwear, and as a replacement for plastic in the retail sector.

ANDRITZ has supplied Romatex with dedicated batt forming equipment, mixing an aXcess card and an eXcelle crosslapper to provide Romatex’s technical characteristics in terms of product quality and line performance. This new stitchbonding line will enable Romatex to better serve its customers and meet their requirements perfectly.

• Inspiring Interiors

Textiles are an inseparable part of the interior as they give a room atmosphere and good acoustics. But which fabric is best suited for which purpose? This  month's  drapilux recommendation is drapilux 191 and is aimed  at healthcare facilities as well as classic and modern hotels.

• Colourful stripes: drapilux 191

Colourful stripes: drapilux 191Aesthetic,  harmonious and  functional -that's what definesdrapilux  191. The colorful woven fabricwith  the  multicolored  stripes  is  part  of  the we  care-collection, which was specially developed for the dementia-sensitive design of healthcare facilities. Six atmospheric colour schemes ranging from invigorating orange-red to relaxing Mediterranean blue and friendly sunshine yellow create a homely feel-good atmosphere. However, the opaque fabric is not only convincing in terms of design, but also in terms of function. The article can be equipped with the intelligent additional function drapilux antimicrobial. This is effective against viruses, bacteria and fungi on the textile surface and thus makes an essential contribution to the hygiene chain.

• PrimaLoft and Origin Materials have launched a program to develop high-performance, carbon-negative insulating fibers for diverse apparel applications, including for leading outdoor, fashion, and lifestyle brands, as well as home goods applications such as hypoallergenic insulated bedding.
• PrimaLoft, an advanced material technology company and a world leader in the development of high-performance insulations and fabrics, will develop the fibers with Origin Materials to address demand for sustainable, high-performance materials from its over 900 global brand partners. PrimaLoft iconic brand partners include Patagonia, Stone Island, L.L. Bean, Lululemon, adidas and Nike.
• The program will focus on carbon-negative PET and next-generation polymers produced by the Origin Materials patented technology platform, which turns sustainable wood residue into cost-advantaged, carbon-negative materials that reduce the need for fossil resources.

Origin Materials, Inc. (“Origin Materials”), a leading carbon negative materials company, and PrimaLoft, an advanced material technology company and a leader in the development of high-performance insulations and fabrics, announced a new program to develop carbon-negative, insulating, high-performance fibers. The fibers will be used across a diverse array of end products, including insulating fiber for leading outdoor, fashion, and lifestyle brands, as well as home goods applications such as hypoallergenic insulated bedding.

The companies will work to rapidly develop and commercialize new products derived from Origin Materials’ platform. The collaboration will leverage the leadership position of PrimaLoft as a specialty producer of insulating fibers and filaments with over 900 global brand partners, as well as a large global network of manufacturers that employ a wide array of textile processes to make its products, including extrusion, carding, spinning, finishing, weaving, knitting, dyeing, airlaid, meltblown, and other technologies.

The collaboration builds on PrimaLoft’s “Relentlessly Responsible™” mission to elevate both performance and sustainability, through innovation. The platform includes PrimaLoft® Bio™, which was developed and launched into the market in late 2018 as an effort to battle microplastics in the ocean; PrimaLoft® P.U.R.E.™, which provides materials manufactured with greater than 50% CO2 savings; and PrimaLoft’s post-consumer recycling initiative. The next frontier for the company is non-petroleum based raw materials, including products that biodegrade and other circular economy solutions.

Wie kann ein Stoff den Raum verändern? Können Textilien zum Mittel der Kommunikation werden? Diese Fragen stellte sich auch Sharon Kisser während ihres Studiums an der Hochschule Mainz. „Textilien sind nicht nur zum Ansehen da, man muss sie auch erleben können“ lautet die Devise der aufstrebenden Innenarchitektin. So entstand in Kooperation mit dem Emsdettener Textilunternehmen drapilux der Entwurf des Messestandes „Material macht Raum“. Ein Konzept, bei dem klar wird: Hier geht es um „mehr als nur Stoff“.

„Stellen Sie sich ein Krankenhauszimmer ohne Vorhänge oder Bettwäsche vor, ein Wohnzimmer ohne Kissen, Teppiche und Vorhänge. Sitzen Sie bei einer Veranstaltung lieber auf einem harten Stuhl oder einem gepolsterten? Denken Sie an einen verschneiten Wintertag mit Kakao, aber ohne die Lieblingskuscheldecke. Das ist alles möglich, aber geht da nicht die Gemütlichkeit verloren?“ Ein Gedanke, der Sharon Kisser inspiriert, denn Textilien sind ihre Leidenschaft. Die Junior Innenarchitektin weiß, wie Stoffe unsere Wahrnehmung beeinflussen: Textilien begleiten uns jeden Tag, verleihen unseren Räumen eine eigene Identität, schaffen Atmosphäre und geben uns das Gefühl von Geborgenheit. Ein Aspekt, der insbesondere in der heutigen Zeit immer mehr an Bedeutung gewinnt.

Schön und smart
Ebendieser Gedanke legte den Grundstein zu Sharon Kissers Projekt „Material macht Raum“. Mit ihrem Entwurf eines Messestands, der die Stoffe von drapilux auf eine neue Art erlebbar macht, zeigt die ehemalige Mainzer Studentin, dass Textilien mehr zu bieten haben, als eine schöne Optik. Aufgehängt an Metallbögen schwingen Stoffbahnen frei im Raum, werden zu kleinen Zelten, bereit betreten zu werden. Im Inneren offenbaren sie dann ihr Geheimnis: Die intelligenten Zusatzfunktionen von drapilux. Diese neutralisieren Gerüche (drapilux air), mindern Lärm und Geräusche (drapilux akustik) und reduzieren sogar mehr als 99 Prozent der schädlichen Bakterien auf der Textiloberfläche (drapilux bioaktiv). Auch im Brandfall schützen die speziell ausgerüsteten Textilien, denn alle Stoffe des Emsdettener Herstellers sind flammhemmend (drapilux flammstop). Es ist ein gekonntes Zusammenspiel von Design und Funktion, das alle Sinne direkt anspricht. „Mein Ziel war es, für den Besucher eine Erlebniswelt zu erschaffen, die er erkunden und verstehen möchte“, erklärt Kisser ihr Projekt. Das Konzept lässt sich in den Alltag übertragen – ein schönes Design ist nicht mehr alles, Textilien müssen funktional sein und sich unseren individuellen und modernen Lebensgewohnheiten anpassen. Kurz: Sie müssen mehr sein als nur Stoff. „Auf der Suche nach außergewöhnlichen Textilien für mein Projekt bin auf drapilux aufmerksam geworden. Hier tat sich für mich eine neue Sparte auf, denn bisher wusste ich sehr wenig über Stoffe mit intelligenten Funktionen“, erinnert sich Kisser.

Stoff mit Zukunft
Aufgrund der aktuellen Situation sind viele Menschen zu Hause oder arbeiten im Homeoffice. „Gerade in Krisenzeiten sehnt man sich nach einer Umgebung der Entspannung, einem Rückzugsort“, bestätigt Kirstin Herrmann, Leiterin des Design Studios bei drapilux. „Textilien schaffen eine Atmosphäre, die perfekt auf individuelle Arbeits- und Raumbedürfnisse abgestimmt ist und diese ergänzt. Sowohl in den eigenen vier Wänden als auch am Arbeitsplatz spielt der Wohlfühlfaktor eine ganz entscheidende Rolle.“ Essenziell ist der Einsatz von Textilien natürlich auch in den Räumlichkeiten von Senioren- und Pflegeheimen oder Krankenhäusern. In einer fremden Umgebung ist der Wunsch nach Geborgenheit und Sicherheit allgegenwärtig; Textilien greifen diese Bedürfnisse auf und kommunizieren sie. Farben, Strukturen und Design helfen, die Raumatmosphäre positiv zu beeinflussen, genau wie die unsichtbaren intelligenten Zusatzfunktionen, die beispielsweise mit ihrer luftreinigenden Eigenschaft das Raumklima unterstützen oder die die Raumakustik harmonisieren. „Es ist wichtig, dass Funktion und Design perfekt zusammenspielen“, betont Herrmann.

Das rät auch Kisser: „Während des Studiums habe ich gelernt, dass man bei der Auswahl von Textilien auch mal mutig sein sollte. Es muss nicht immer die vorsichtige Kombination von grau und beige sein. Miteinander kombiniert werden einzelne Muster und Farben zu wahren Hinguckern und werten den Raum optisch auf.“ Auch die Haptik spielt eine große Rolle. „Natürlich muss die Qualität stimmen, die Textilien müssen strapazierfähig und robust sein. Gleichzeitig ist es wichtig, dass sich die Stoffe, mit denen wir uns umgeben, beim Berühren angenehm anfühlen. Der richtige Einsatz von Textilien kann das Gefühl und die Aussage eines Raumes komplett verändern.“

• Swiss weaving machinery manufacturers are in the forefront of novel application development

Shoes and electronic calculators are probably not the first products people would associate with the textile weaving process. But they certainly signpost the future for woven fabrics, as two examples of the ever-wider possibilities of latest technology in the field. Fashion and function already combine in the increasing popularity of woven fabrics for shoes, and this is a present and future trend. Calculators in fabrics? That’s another story of ingenious development, using so-called ‘meander fields’ on the back and keys printed on the front of the material.

These glimpses of the outlook for modern weavers are among the highlights of developments now being pioneered by Swiss textile machinery companies. All weaving markets require innovation, as well as speed, efficiency, quality and sustainability. Member firms of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association respond to these needs at every point in the process – from tightening the first thread in the warp to winding the last inch for fabric delivery. They also share a common advantage, with a leading position in the traditional weaving industry as well as the expertise to foster new and exciting applications.

Technology and research cooperation
The concept of a ‘textile calculator’ was developed by Jakob Müller Group, in cooperation with the textile research institute Thuringen-Vogtland. Müller’s patented MDW® multi-directional weaving technology is able to create the meander fields which allow calculator functions to be accessed at a touch. A novel and useful facility, which suggests limitless expansion.

Today, the latest woven shoes are appreciated for their precise and comfortable fit. They score through their durability, strength and stability, meeting the requirements of individual athletes across many sports, as well as leisurewear. Stäubli is well known as a leading global specialist in weaving preparation, shedding systems and high-speed textile machinery. Its jacquard machines offer great flexibility across a wide range of formats, weaving all types of technical textiles, lightweight reinforcement fabrics – and shoes.

It’s possible to weave new materials such as ceramics, mix fibers such as aramid, carbon and other, and produce innovative multi-layers with variable thicknesses. Such applications put special demands on weaving machines which are fulfilled by Stäubli high-performance TF weaving systems.

Great weaving results are impossible without perfect warp tension, now available thanks to the world-leading electronic warp feeding systems of Crealet. Some market segments in weaving industry today demand warp let-off systems which meet individual customer requirements. For example, the company has recognized expertise to understand that geotextile products often need special treatment, as provided by its intelligent warp tension control system. Individual and connective solutions are designed to allow external support via remote link. Crealet’s warp let-off systems are widely used in both ribbon and broadloom weaving, for technical textiles applied on single or multiple warp beams and creels.

Functional, sustainable, automated
Trends in the field of woven narrow fabrics are clearly focused on functionality and sustainability. The Jakob Müller Group has already embraced these principles – for example using natural fibers for 100% recyclable labels with a soft-feel selvedge. It also focuses as much as possible on the processing of recycled, synthetic materials. Both PET bottles and polyester waste from production are recycled and processed into elastic and rigid tapes for the apparel industry.

For efficient fabric production environments, it is now recognized that automated quality solutions are essential. Quality standards are increasing everywhere and zero-defect levels are mandatory for sensitive applications such as airbags and protective apparel.

Uster’s latest generation of on-loom monitoring and inspection systems offers real operational improvements for weavers. The fabric quality monitoring prevents waste, while the quality assurance system significantly improves first-quality yield for all applications. Protecting fabric makers from costly claims and damaged reputations, automated fabric inspection also removes the need for slow, costly and unreliable manual inspection, freeing operators to focus on higher-skilled jobs.

Smart and collaborative robotics (cobots) offer many automation possibilities in weaving rooms. Stäubli’s future oriented robotics division is a driver in this segment with first effective installations in warp and creel preparation.

Control and productivity
Willy Grob’s specialized solutions for woven fabric winding focus on reliable control of tension, keeping it constant from the start of the process right through to the full cloth roll. Continuous digital control is especially important for sensitive fabrics, while performance and productivity are also critical advantages. In this regard, the company’s large-scale batching units can provide ten times the winding capacity of a regular winder integrated in the weaving machine.

The customized concept by Grob as well as design and implementation result in great flexibility and functionality of the fabric winding equipment – yet another example of Swiss ingenuity in textile machinery.  
There is even more innovation to come in weaving – and in other segments – from members of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association in future! This confident assertion is founded on an impressive statistic: the 4077 years of experience behind the creative power of the association’s member firms. It’s proof positive that their developments grow out of profound knowledge and continuous research.