From the Sector

Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) has collaborated with PDS Ventures to launch a new Trailblazer Programme. The new initiative seeks to identify early-stage innovators and support them on their journey to scale.

As part of the Trailblazer Programme, PDS Ventures will award one innovator a significant investment of up to USD 200,000* to accelerate the company’s growth and positive impact in the fashion industry. The winner will also receive commercial and operational support from PDS Group’s Positive Materials - a textile company and strategic research partner supporting the development and acceleration of low impact textile innovation through collaboration between early-stage start-ups, supply chain partners and brands. Further scaling opportunities will be gained through access to PDS Limited’s extensive global supply chain.
 
GFA and PDS Ventures are presenting an open call for solution providers addressing different challenges across the fashion value chain to apply for the programme. Applicants will be reviewed and shortlisted by an esteemed Jury including representatives from GFA, PDS Ventures, Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), Ralph Lauren Corporation, Fashion For Good and H&M Group. Eight shortlisted innovations will be enrolled in a group of Trailblazers, receiving feedback and investment pitch training from industry experts and PDS representatives.     
 
Each shortlisted innovator will then pitch for a potential investment, with the winning Trailblazer being revealed at GFA’s Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition 2024 - an international forum for sustainability in fashion, on 22-23 May at the Copenhagen Concert Hall. All shortlisted Trailblazers will also have the opportunity to showcase their businesses within an exhibit at the Summit to connect with other key industry stakeholders and potential investors.
 
The Trailblazer Programme corresponds with the theme of the upcoming Global Fashion Summit - ‘Unlocking The Next Level’. Inspired by a significant milestone, 2024 marks 15 years since the inaugural Global Fashion Summit was hosted in 2009. This pivotal anniversary offers a special moment to not only take stock of the evolution of the sector and the progress made so far, but, most importantly, look ahead at what actions must urgently be implemented in the near term, and the gaps that must be filled to accelerate industry transformation.

Infinited Fiber Company has successfully completed a two-part development financing round totaling 40 million euros, with significant investments from new investors Inditex, TTY Management, Youngone and Goldwin, in addition to existing ones.

The new investors are Inditex Group, the parent company of Zara and other brands, and TTY Management B.V., an asset management company privately owned by Tadashi Yanai, Chairman, President and CEO of Fast Retailing. Outdoor clothing manufacturer Youngone (YOH CVC Fund 1 Limited Partnership) and Japanese sportswear manufacturer Goldwin (GOLDWIN Play Earth Fund Investment Limited Partnership) are also among the new investors who joined in the recent second closing of EUR 27 million.

The first part of the development financing round, closed in summer 2023, included investments from existing investors. Apparel companies H&M Group, adidas, BESTSELLER, and Zalando further reinforced their long-term commitment to Infinited Fiber. Also investment company VTT Ventures participated in the first closing, and investment companies Security Trading and Nidoco AB in both closings of the round.

After the development financing round, Inditex, TTY Management and H&M Group are the largest shareholders of Infinited Fiber Company.

Archroma has developed a new wet-fastness improver that helps brands and mills produce durable clothing, towels, linens and other textile products with long-lasting colors without compromising on quality or introducing hazardous chemicals.

ALBAFIX® ECO PLUS is a next-generation fixing agent that delivers a strong wet-fastness for all reactive dyes on cotton and other cellulosic fibers and polyester-cotton blends. It will not change the shade of the dyed fabric or negatively impact light-fastness. The product also avoids production challenges – such as foaming, acid hydrolysis and migration problems during drying – to promote efficiency and quality output.

ALBAFIX® ECO PLUS is suitable for jet applications, and for other dyeing and washing equipment with vigorous liquor circulation, and can also be applied by exhaustion, by padding or from the last bath of the soaping process after dyeing or printing.

Like ALBAFIX® ECO, the latest addition to the ALBAFIX® family has a positive influence on chlorine-fastness. When applied with double fixing, it achieves the same high performance on polyamide and PA/Elastane fabrics, as it does on cellulosic fibers. This makes it ideal for the production of swimwear, as well as sportswear and outdoor clothing.

ALBAFIX® ECO PLUS complies with global eco-standards and initiatives, including Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), bluesign® and the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Roadmap.

• Autoneum is expanding its production capacities in Asia with two new plants in Changchun in the Chinese province of Jilin and Pune in Western India.

The world's largest automotive market Asia is one of the most important sales regions for vehicle manufacturers and suppliers as well as a pioneer for new forms of e-mobility. Autoneum already supplies both international and local vehicle manufacturers in Asia with multifunctional lightweight components for noise and heat protection, supporting them in their commitment to sustainable mobility. Autoneum is expanding its production capacities in the key automotive hubs of China and India to increase its presence and thus its proximity to customers in these important production centers.

Autoneum’s new plant in China, which will be operated as a joint venture, will be located in Changchun in the northern Chinese Jilin province, which is one of Asia’s largest car production centers. The proximity to key local and international vehicle manufacturers makes Changchun a strategically important and attractive location for Autoneum. The plant will help to increase market share with European, Japanese and Chinese car manufacturers with products for light vehicles and also support the expansion of the Company’s business with components for commercial vehicles in this region. The project is supported by the local authorities in China. From the end of 2024, the plant will ramp up production with first samples for already awarded business for inner dashes, interior floor insulators and other NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) components for cars of all drive types.

Autoneum is furthermore expanding its local presence in Western India with a fully owned production facility in Pune in the state of Maharashtra. The Company already operates two locations in India: one in Behror near New Delhi in the north and a joint venture plant in Chennai in the south. Thanks to the new Pune plant, Autoneum will now be present in the north, west and south of the country and gain access to the third of four major automobile production centers in India. Orders have already been received and the plant in Pune will start manufacturing carpet systems, interior trim, wheelhouse outer liners, e-motor covers and other noise protection components as of the second quarter of 2024. From the 7 500 square meter building, Autoneum will supply international as well as local car manufacturers with a particular focus on Indian and Korean vehicle manufacturers.

Archroma and Browzwear, a company of 3D digital solutions for the fashion industry, have expanded their partnership to bring the complete Color Atlas by Archroma® library of colors to Browzwear’s VSticher, Lotta and Stylezone platforms.

Designers will now have access to a total of 5,760 color references, with 1,440 colors for polyester added to Browzwear’s existing color library of 4,320 Color Atlas colors for cotton poplin. This will support them to collaborate across the entire supply chain, ensuring color consistency from digital design to production for cotton, polyester and blends.

Crucially, the color references in the Color Atlas by Archroma® have been formulated to comply with leading international eco-standards, allowing designers to select dyes and finishes that meet their desired sustainability profile. Each color is available as a physical color standard that includes precise dyeing recipes and compliance data, as well as access to expert technical support from Archroma around the world.

Borealis is commemorating its thirtieth year of operations. Born of a merger between Statoil and Neste, Borealis has expanded from its early Nordic roots to become one of the top polyolefins players. Its dedication to value creation through innovation has produced proprietary and transformative technologies which benefit society and accelerate the transition to a circular economy. The company is regularly ranked as Austria's top innovator in the European Patent Index and holds an extensive patent portfolio of around 8,900 granted patents. In Europe in particular, Borealis has for decades bolstered the industrial landscape by investing in its capital assets, and by providing thousands of jobs.

Innovations
Borealis uses technological innovation to add value to polyolefin-based applications, ensure that production processes are made more resource efficient, and to accelerate plastics circularity. Borstar®, the multi-modal proprietary technology for the manufacture of polyethylene (PE) and polypropylene (PP), has been a mainstay of Borealis success since the start-up of the first Borstar PE plant in Porvoo, Finland in 1995. Borstar has since been joined by other technology brands, like Borlink™, an innovation for the power cable industry; Borstar® Nextension Technology, an innovation that among other benefits facilitates the production of monomaterial applications designed for recycling; or the Borcycle™ M technology for mechanical recycling, which breathes new life into polyolefin-based, post-consumer waste, transforming it into applications with a lower carbon footprint.

Global Expansion
With the strong support of its two majority shareholders OMV (Austria) and The Abu Dhabi National Oil Company (ADNOC, UAE), Borealis continues to expand its global footprint. The joint venture Borouge, established in 1998 in the UAE, and listed on the Abu Dhabi Securities Exchange (ADX) since 2022, is one of the largest integrated polyolefin complexes. It is currently the site of the company’s largest-ever growth project: Borouge 4, the new USD 6.2 billion facility in Ruwais, which will serve customers in the Middle East and Asia. In North America, the Baystar™ joint venture, founded in 2017 and operated with partner TotalEnergies, entailed the construction of a new ethane cracker as well as the most advanced Borstar plant ever built outside of Europe. The PE Borstar 3G plant in Pasadena, Texas was started up in late 2023 and has brought Borstar to this continent for the first time. Borealis’ commitment to Europe as a production location is evidenced by the new, world-scale propane dehydrogenation (PDH) plant currently under construction at Borealis operations in Kallo, Belgium.

Freudenberg Performance Materials (Freudenberg) is unveiling a new 100 percent synthetic wetlaid nonwoven product line made in Germany. The new materials can be manufactured from various types of polymer-based fibers, including ultra-fine micro-fibers, and are designed for use in filtration applications as well as other industrial applications.

Customers in the filtration business can use Freudenberg’s new fully synthetic wetlaid nonwovens in both liquid and air filtration. Applications include reverse osmosis membrane support, support for nanofibers or PTFE membranes as well as oil filtration media. The new materials are suited to use in the building & construction industry or the composites industry.
For filtration applications, the new fully synthetic wetlaid nonwovens are marketed under the Filtura® brand.

Versatile and flexible manufacturing
Freudenberg’s fully synthetic wetlaid nonwovens can be made of polyester, polyolefin, polyamide and polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), using staple fibers of up to 12mm fiber length and microfibers as fine as 0.04dtex. In terms of weight, the product range spans weights of between 8g/m² and 250g/m². Freudenberg’s flexible wetlaid manufacturing line has the capability to combine various thermal and chemical bonding technologies. The materials have high precision in weight and thickness as well as a defined pore size and high porosity.

Wetlaid capabilities for various applications
In addition to its fully synthetic range, Freudenberg can also incorporate glass fibers, viscose and cellulose. General industry applications for Freudenberg wetlaid nonwovens are surfacing veils for glass-fiber reinforced plastics, compostable desiccant bags, battery separators, acoustics, heatshields, and apparel applications such as embroidery substrates.

As of March 1, 2024, Dr. Denis Hinz will become new Head of SGL Carbon's Carbon Fibers Business Unit. The previous Head, Roland Nowicki, will leave SGL Carbon on May 31, 2024 at his own request to pursue new professional challenges. He will be available to the company as a consultant until his leaving date to support a smooth transition.

Roland Nowicki took over as Head of Carbon Fibers in November 2020 and has successfully driven forward the realignment of the business unit over the past three years.  

Dr. Denis Hinz has been with SGL Carbon for more than six years and has held various management positions during this time, including Head of Operations of the Fuel Cell Components division and Managing Director of SGL Fuel Cell Components GmbH in Meitingen since December 1, 2021. The graduate engineer from the Technical University of Munich is an experienced manager who is well networked within SGL Carbon and has closely followed the development of Carbon Fibers in recent years.

Eastman announces a partnership with Patagonia to address textile waste.

The outdoor apparel company teamed up with Eastman to recycle 8,000 pounds of pre- and post-consumer clothing waste, which Eastman processed through its molecular recycling technology. The process involves breaking down Patagonia’s unusable apparel into molecular building blocks that Eastman can use to make new fibers.

"We know apparel waste is a major problem, and consumers increasingly want better, more sustainable solutions when their most loved clothing reaches the end of its life," said Natalie Banakis, materials innovation engineer for Patagonia.

"Our collaborations show the world what’s possible when it comes to sustainability,” said Carolina Sister Cohn, global marketing lead for Eastman textiles. “We have the technology to make the textiles industry circular, and we know it requires collaboration with innovative brands to make circular fashion possible. This is only the beginning, and we look forward to more collaborations throughout 2024."

SGL Carbon SE is currently evaluating various strategic options for the Business Unit Carbon Fibers (CF). These include a possible partial or complete divestment of the Business Unit. In a first step, potential interested parties shall be approached with the general data of the Business Unit to determine their interest in an acquisition. If there is sufficient interest, a structured transaction process will be carried out in a second step. Overall, a share of sales amounting to around € 179.6 million after nine months in 2023 (9M 2022: € 269.0 million) is therefore under review. The CF sales share corresponded to 21.9% of SGL Carbon's consolidated sales after nine months in 2023 (9M 2022: 31.5%). Adjusted EBITDA of the Business Unit excluding the result from joint ventures amounted to minus € 10,9 million after nine months in 2023 (9M 2022: € 27,9 million). Despite the operating loss of CF after nine months in 2023, SGL Carbon maintains its guidance for fiscal year 2023. This shows the positive development of the three other business units and the resilience of SGL Carbon's business model.

Carbon Fibers manufactures textile, acrylic and carbon fibers as well as composite materials at seven locations in Europe and North America. Following the temporary drop in demand for carbon fibers from the important wind industry market, the Business Unit's sales and earnings fell significantly in the course of fiscal year 2023. Due to the importance of the wind industry for the European Green Deal, SGL Carbon and many experts assumed that the wind industry recovers quickly. Unfortunately, this is currently not the case. Even if demand picks up, the company assumes that Carbon Fibers will need additional resources to remain competitive in the international market environment and to exploit market opportunities in the best possible way. Against this background, SGL Carbon is reviewing all possibilities to support a positive further development of the Carbon Fibers Business Unit.