From the Sector

• Empowering fashion with responsible R&D, cutting edge finishing and a Made in Italy design imprint

Paris - “The soul of sustainable fashion is an alchemy, a combined commitment and an act of responsibility”. This is the motto ‘embossed’ in the collections and the values of Italian Converter. At Première Vision, the leading manufacturer celebrates its 25th anniversary and presents E.C.O. KOSMOS, a cross-collection, a brand-new ‘green line’ range’ and a winning formula shining a light on the company’s responsible path and unique ‘blend’ for the fashion of tomorrow.

The acronym E.C.O. stands for Ecologic, Conversion, Optimisation; three unique concepts and values that truly embody Italian Converter DNA: sustainability, transformative process and quality improvement.
For over 25 years, Italian Converter creates high-quality materials for some of the leading fashion and accessories brands. “Made in Italy and sustainability are part of our DNA.” Says Costantino Karazissis, founder of Italian Converter. “We believe that responsible sourcing and processes as well as a deep research into new technology pathways and a market-savvy taste for material design must be the starting point.”

At the core of the company’s responsible alchemy is also the constant research for the perfect balance of 100% Made in Italy materials. “We proudly collaborate with 120 skilled employees producing new hybrid material innovations daily, attracting partnerships from the best high-end brands both in Italy and abroad”.

Toupe and brick red E.C.O. Graffiti (100% linen) on E.C.O. Aurora (cotton and AMNI SOUL ECO®)

E.C.O. KOSMOS is entirely traceable, transparent, 100%made in Italy. The collection walks through a very complete and balanced range sustainable materials - from natural to eco high tech ones- that are transformed, enriched and valued in 9 high-tech cutting-edge innovations thanks to the Italian Converter expertise.
•    The natural line starts from bases of cotton bonded with AMNI SOUL ECO®, an enhanced polyamide 6.6 that degrades within 5 years instead of decades, as other conventional ones do.
•    The stretch innovations start from bases in GRS-certified Newlife™, a cutting-edge premium recycled polyester created using a High-Tech Conversion Model. Thanks to a mechanical process, used plastic bottles are turned into a top-quality polymer and yarn which is 100% traceable and 100% Made in Italy. The whole process takes place within a 100 square km area in Piedmont in Northern Italy.
 
All the references make use only of water-based resins and Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX® certified dying. The result, is resistant and transpiring solutions which come with bold and high-performing features, with a soft touch or even with a silky, yet strong, and enveloping feel. The designs range from rustic to contemporary and nod to jacquard, ‘authentic look’ and ‘drill’ hints. An ideal solution for footwear, apparel and leather goods.

Long story short? No compromises. E.C.O. Kosmos reflects design, innovation and responsible values, as well as 100% Italian Converter know-how.
 
“But this is just the beginning,” adds Karazissis. “The next step we are going to implement in the E.C.O. Kosmos cross-collection is a progressive integration of our triple-expertise, processes and R&D.” A sustainable step forward, a leap woven into a deep expertise a story to-be-continued. For a better future, this is for sure.

STITCH & TEX EXPO - AFRICA EDITION, renowned as “Africa’s No. 1 Trade Fair for textile industries”, is gathering Over 1,200 exhibitors from more than 40 countries; with almost 90% of the available space already booked. The trade fair will occupy a space of 50,000 m² of exhibition space, and more than 40,000 trade visitors, delegates and buyers from all over the African continent are expected to attend the event.

STITCH & TEX EXPO - AFRICA EDITION will feature the new concept of organizing two consecutive trade fairs; The first trade fair is dedicated to garment processing technologies including Sewing, Embroidery, Fabrics and their Accessories; While the second is dedicated to textile processing technologies including Weaving, Spinning, Knitting, and Dyeing Machinery, Technologies and Spare Parts; The two events are held under the giant brand STITCH & TEX EXPO - AFRICA EDITION; and will be held in the prestigious venue Cairo International Conventions and Exhibitions Center- Egypt during the period 27 February - 1 March 2020 and 5 - 8 March 2020 successively.

For eight days, the brightest minds of the textiles technologies business will meet in Cairo to demonstrate the latest industrial know-hows; discuss up-to-date tendencies and set the perception for the future. STITCH & TEX EXPO - AFRICA EDITION calls attention to its superior ranking not only through its prominence with the global industry but also by addressing the current challenges being the performance scale for the entire value chain of the African textile industries Bustling, energetic and wide-ranging, STITCH & TEX EXPO - AFRICA EDITION is a premium multi-format event with a distinct commercial and business identity; where cutting-edge technologies, products, services and turnkey solutions are provided by global strategic players and technology makers to serve the ever - growing evolving textile markets of Africa.

imogo is a new Swedish company formed by a team with long experience in textile processing technology. It is now boldly aiming to change the face of the textile manufacturing industry with its new Dye-Max spray dyeing technology, to be introduced to the market at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona.

While still at the prototype stage, and with a first full-scale line currently under construction and due to be demonstrated this Autumn before delivery, the DyeMax nevertheless promises to slash the use of fresh water, waste water, energy and chemicals by as much as 90% compared to conventional jet dyeing systems.

Spray cassettes
Its application unit consists of a closed chamber containing a series of spray cassettes with precision nozzles for accurate and consistent coverage, in combination with the patented imogo pro speed valve that controls the volume to be applied. The chamber is equipped with an exhaust system and droplet separator to ensure that the environment around the unit is free from particles.

“The spray cassettes are a key part in the Dye-Max line,” explains Imogo’s founding partner Per Stenflo. “There is one set of spray cassettes for each of the three separate dye dispersion feed lines and they can be easily exchanged without the need for tools in less than a minute. This allows for extremely fast changeovers between different colours without the need for cleaning. And because the spray cassettes are removable, all maintenance can be performed off line. 
After applying the dye dispersion the fabric is rolled onto a shaft and moved to the autoclave for deep dye fixation via heat and pressure.”

The savings in treatment water the Dye-Max achieves are due to the extremely low liquor ratio of 0.5 litres per kilo of fabric Stenflo adds. 

“At the same time, the low liquor ratio and the spray process require considerably less auxiliary chemistry to start with, and all of it is used in the process, which also greatly reduces the production of waste water, with only 20 litres being required for wash at changeovers. The low liquid content in the fabric meanwhile minimises the energy needed for fixation.”

The Dye-Max has a working speed of up to 50m/min with the practical speed determined by the fabric weight and application volume. 
 

"Beyond Conventional Function" is the exciting special topic at the PERFORMANCE FORUM of the next PERFORMANCE DAYS. Besides the obvious beauty, which is the main topic at the upcoming trade fair, often it is the fabrics that also hide some special added benefit that are of particular interest.

THE BEAUTY OF FUNCTION is the main theme at the next PERFORMANCE DAYS trade fair for functional fabrics and accessories on May 8-9th, 2019 in Munich. Around 300 exhibitors present various interpretations of beauty across all categories in their functional fabrics. Although obviously designed for beauty, these innovative fabrics also promise many hidden benefits at the same time. At the PERFORMANCE FORUM, a special area on the PERFORMANCE WALL is devoted to the most important of these special fabrics, rather than highlighting just one of the fabrics in the context of an award.

The PERFORMANCE JURY selected fabrics from well over 1.100 manufacturer submissions; not only fabrics with an interesting look and feel with essential functions like climate regulation and weather protection for sports, but also fabrics that provide the wearer of the garment with additional benefits and special comfort. These special fabrics represent the motto: "Beyond Conventional Function."

China is the world’s undisputed front-runner in the global car market, leading the way in both production and sales. 2018 saw 27.8 million vehicles produced and domestic sales of 28.1 million, and while these numbers were down slightly year-on-year, the opportunities for global textile producers are still unrivalled given the overall size of the market. These opportunities can best be explored at this year’s biennial China International Nonwovens Expo & Forum (CINE – supported by Techtextil), which runs from 3 – 5 June in Shanghai.
While CINE features nonwovens & nonwoven products, machinery for nonwovens and raw materials & chemicals for nonwovens for a wide range of applications, it is the potential in the automotive sector that is generating a lot of talk before this June’s event. And considering only around 50% of demand for automotive textiles is met by domestic output, the opportunities for imports from overseas suppliers is high.

While new car sales in China dropped for the first time last year since 1992, production still reached 27.8 million vehicles, including 23.5 million passenger cars and 4.3 million commercial vehicles. Furthermore, strong growth is still evident in new energy vehicle (NEV) sales, as well as exports of all vehicle types. NEV production totalled 1.27 million units last year, a staggering 60% increase, while sales grew by nearly 62%. More e-vehicles are sold in China than rest of the world combined, while the government recently set a target of selling 7 million e-vehicles by 2025, ensuring growth in this sector will remain robust for some time. Exports of all vehicle types in 2018 did not grow as fast as NEVs, but the 1.04 million vehicles produced for overseas markets last year still represented growth of 16.8%.

Premium automotive industry buyers attend CINE
Given CINE’s strong reputation in the Chinese nonwovens sector, a number of leading automobile brands, and textile suppliers to these companies, source at the fair. Previous buyers have included Autoliv, Honeywell, Johnson Controls, Lear Corporation, Lydall, Toyota Boshoku, Volkswagen, Wangbo Co Ltd and more.

This edition, buyers such as these can source from a range of automotive nonwovens suppliers. This includes Shanghai Shenda, one of the country’s largest producer of automotive textiles, who will group together a number of automotive interior suppliers.

This year the fair will take place in a new venue, the Shanghai Convention & Exhibition Center of International Sourcing, located conveniently between Hongqiao airport and downtown Shanghai. Visitor registration for the fair is now open and can be accessed here: http://vis.eastfair.com/CINEPCEN/reg.aspx.

• 8^th edition to be held as the “Fair & Convention for Hightech Textiles” at the Carlowitz Congresscenter Chemnitz for the first time on 9 – 10 June 2020 – Textile themes from the LiMA exhibition for lightweight design are being integrated in the new format

 
The “mtex+” is raising its profile and is moving to an attractive setting. The 8^th edition of the international exhibition entitled “Fair & Convention for Hightech Textiles” will be held in the new Carlowitz Congresscenter at the heart of Chemnitz for the first time on 9 and 10 June 2020.
 
“The “mtex+” is a trade event that experts from various sectors greatly appreciate on account of its emphasis on dialogue and in-depth contacts – and because everything is on the spot. The modern, exciting ambiance at the new venue facilitates our desire to create the best possible atmosphere for cooperation in a trusting environment,” Dr Ralf Schulze, Managing Director of C3 GmbH, the organising company, explains. “In its future form, the “mtex+” will act as a source of ideas and inspiration for developers and manufacturers as well as for users of all kinds of high-tech textiles, specifically including composites, to a greater degree than in the past. Textile composite materials are becoming increasingly important for many processors. That’s the reason why we’re transferring the textile themes of the LiMA lightweight design exhibition, which has been held alongside the “mtex+” in the past, into our new trade fair format. Lightweight textile design in all its facets will be one of the major emphases at the “mtex+”.”    
 
The major topics covered by the 8th “mtex+” will include process development, textile engineering, digitalised value-added chains, services with potential for use across different sectors as well as recycling. The highlights of the programme will include workshops on effective and sustainable production, smart textiles, acoustic textiles, a special exhibition on health and protective textiles as well as an entertaining network evening entitled “Excellent connections”.

The North-Eastern German Textile and Clothing Industry Association (vti) believes that this concept exactly matches the needs of its target audience. “Chemnitz is located at the heart of the Central German industrial and research region, which is developing with great dynamism,” says vti Managing Director, Dr.-Ing. Jenz Otto. “Any firm that presents its products and services here will find itself in a very interesting market. Located not far from the border with the Czech Republic and Poland, the “mtex+” will also act as a dialogue forum for potential cooperation partners across sector and international boundaries, both for these and other Eastern European countries.”
 
The “mtex+” will continue to be held in Central Germany’s industrial city of Chemnitz every two years in future too. 159 exhibitors from seven different countries (in conjunction with the LiMA lightweight design exhibition) attended the 7th edition in the spring of 2018. 22 percent of the approx. 1,000 trade visitors came from abroad.

• conceptual and commercial garments presented at exhibition in London

After two years of research Mistra Future Fashion is honoured to present, in collaboration with Centre for Circular Design at University of the Arts London and Filippa K, an exhibition pushing the limits of ‘fast’ and ‘slow’ fashion. Started in 2017, the industry-embedded project Circular Design Speeds takes a unique systemic approach, showcasing what could be accomplished using existing value chains as well as what the future of sustainable fashion holds. Ground-breaking textile research from University of the Arts London is questioning normative use and design of garments in creating prototypes to be worn across a spectrum of 24 hours to 50 years. By implementing research into existing value chains, Filippa K have produced a coat that is 100% recycled and recyclable, as well as a concept dress that is 100% bio-based and biodegradable. The research results and garments will be presented at the launch event at the University of the Arts London, on November 23rd and open to public on the 24th and 25th of November.

On Friday November 23rd the exhibition Disrupting Patterns: Designing for Circular Speeds opens up at University of the Arts London. The exhibition is the results of a two-year research project called Circular Design Speeds aiming at pushing the limits of ‘fast’ and ‘slow’ fashion by testing new concepts for sustainable design in an industry setting. On display are exploratory prototypes, as well as commercial garments produced by industry partner Filippa K using existing value chains. In addition, research results on innovative materials, consumer acceptance, composting studies and Life Cycle Assessments are presented. The aim of this project is to implement research results in a real fashion industry context, focusing on speed of use and maximising fabric value retention in products.

The Service Shirt developed by Professor Rebecca Earley is designed to last for over 50 years. The concept garment explores the multiple complexities, challenges and opportunities associated with design for circular business models in extended use contexts. The Service Shirt was designed as a ‘deliberate extreme’ to have a total lifecycle of 50 years. This lifecycle includes in-house and external remanufacturing processes, as well as various use cycles – often moving between single ownership and rental and sharing contexts. It becomes the lining for a jacket and then crafted in to fashion accessories, before finally being chemically regenerated in the year 2068.

On the opposite side of the spectrum the Fast-Forward concept, developed by Prof Kay Politowicz and Dr Kate Goldsworthy, explores alternative modes of production and use for a sustainable ‘fast-fashion’ application. Advantages with regards to climate impact are enabled through lighter material choices, nonwoven fabric production, no launder, clear routes to recovery and redistributed manufacturing systems. A sliding scale of ‘speed’ from ultra-fast forward through to a more widely accepted length of use, with adaptations to production processes and end of life, is presented. The prototypes are made from a new bio-based nonwoven material co-developed with Dr Hjalmar Granberg at RISE Research Institute of Sweden & University of the Arts London. The composition of the paper is a mix of cellulose pulp and bio-based PLA fibre, making the garment 100% biodegradable or recyclable in existing paper recycling systems.

Working closely with industry partner Filippa K made commercial testing possible. By implementing research into existing value chains, Filippa K was able to produce a coat that is 100% recycled and recyclable, as well as a concept dress that is 100% bio-based and biodegradable. The garments are a part of Filippa K’s Front Runner series and will be available in selected stores on November 26th. With a focus on products’ length of use and maximizing fabric value retention, Filippa K are dedicated to becoming fully circular by 2030.

“Being part of the fashion industry comes with many challenges, especially when considering the fact that we are the second most polluting industry after oil. Our industry needs to change and we believe adapting to circular models, like nature’s ecosystem, is one important solution. We want to be able to offer beautiful clothing and to make business within the planetary boundaries.”
- Elin Larsson, Sustainability Director, Filippa K

To validate the design research presented, a Life Cycle Assessment was performed on the prototypes. Mistra Future Fashion affiliated Dr. Greg Peters, Chalmers University of Technology, together with additional LCA Researchers at RISE, conclude that the production of fibres and fabrics are the main processes impacting the environment during the garment life cycles. Therefore, to extend the lifetime of existing garments and design for re-use, as done in the Service Shirt, is indeed the superior alternative compared to a reference garment.

“Compared with garments of the same mass, the extended life garments represent a large improvement in environmental performance over the reference garments, outperforming the reference garments in all effect categories. This superiority is primarily a consequence of avoiding garment production via reprinting and reassembly of the initial garment to extend its useful life.”
- Dr Greg Peters, LCA Researcher at Chalmers University of Technology

Another way to circumvent the impacts of fast fashion is to develop materials with considerably lower impacts during production, and which also avoid the barriers to recycling faced by conventional garments. Instead of hinder consumers from buying new, the act of acquiring a new garment could in fact be sustainable. The paper-based short life garments considered in this assessment show considerable impact savings when compare to the benchmark garment. Dr. Peters says,

“The paper-based garments benefit from the lower impacts of the material (fibre production, spinning and knitting) compared with conventional cotton, from their relatively light weight and also on account of the lower impacts in garment production and use.”

• 16-18 October 2018, Kay Bailey Hutchinson Convention Center, Dallas, TX

A skateboard, architectural panels and a rigid roof for boats – all three products rely on CHOMARAT composite reinforcements. The three designs will be on display at CAMX Expo in the demonstration area of COMPOSITES ONE, partner of CHOMARAT and leader in composites distribution in North America. CHOMARAT’s reinforcements enable to give unique properties to these three applications.

Proof positive: reinforcements offer design flexibility & improved mechanical performance

These three applications give CHOMARAT the opportunity to demonstrate the performance of its uniquely designed reinforcements in real time. “The skateboard combines Rovicore™, the multi-function closed-mold reinforcement developed by CHOMARAT, with C-Weave™, its woven carbon fabric that offers both structural performance and aesthetics to the design. Rovicore™ provides the permeability, while C-Weave™ provides the carbon aspect,” explains Brian Laufenberg, president, CHOMARAT North America.

During the live demos, architectural panels using Rovicore™ and a rigid boat roof in RTM will also be made. “With 60 years of expertise in designing composite reinforcements, CHOMARAT demonstrates that its reinforcements offer excellent mechanical performance and design for a large number of projects in sectors as diverse as sport and leisure, marine and building,” adds Travis IRVIN, Sales Manager and Closed Mould Process Expert at CHOMARAT.

Meet CHOMARAT teams at BOOTH V39 and see Live demos in the COMPOSITES ONE demonstration area at CAMX 2018 EXPO

Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles has always been at the forefront of the China and Asia markets for participants to find the latest products from around the world and learn about the current market trends. This year, a series of fringe programme events together with some new show features will inspire fairgoers throughout the four-day fair.

New features for contract business

Given the growing demand for textile solutions for architecture, interior design and the hotel industry, the coming August fair will highlight leading contract upholstery suppliers with distinctive labels. In addition, the show will feature a showcase area at hall 5.1 which displays quality contract upholstery from exhibitors. The area will be decorated by interior designers, demonstrating the functionalities of different contract textile products.

To introduce the opportunities that the textile industry can capture from contract business, both domestic and international architects, hoteliers, interior designers and industry experts have been invited to share their insights about design, market, materials and project management on the Contract Business Days, on 28 & 29 August.

Naima A Khan, founder and interior designer from The Green Design in UAE, for instance, will be speaking on The Art of Sustainable Interior Design. She has worked with many international home fashion retail store developers, as well as textile and interior companies, and is experienced in using therapeutic colour schemes, sustainable materials and sunlight in different design projects. Another guest, Esra Lemmens, who is also a designer and active speaker at design events, will talk about the expanding importance of design throughout Dubai as well as her suggestions for doing business in Dubai.

Other speakers also include Martin Oliu from the international design company, Harmony World Consultant and Design (HWCD). He has participated in a broad area of design such as architectural construction & interior design and is responsible for various luxury residential and hotel design projects. Professor Thomas Charles, who has been working on industrial product design and research for user experience & consumer behaviour study, business strategy and branding designs will give a talk on ‘The Power of Innovative Design’. Trevira CS will also participate in the Contract Business Day through their Chinese representative, Jenny Zhang, who will share how the permanently flame retardant Trevira CS textiles can fit into contract business.

Digital printing and technics remain a focal point

The Digital Printing Micro Factory concept was first introduced in the 2017 edition of Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles, and received much attention and positive feedback. To cater to the growing demand for efficient, one-step textile solutions, Global Fortune Limited from Hong Kong will work jointly with Kornit Digital and Bullmer to set up a Micro Factory at this August’s fair. An advanced digital printing system – Allegro & Cut by Kornit Allegro – will be introduced. The system streamlines the entire production process by combining printing and drying together so multiple machinery is not needed. It is also eco-friendly as one single ink set suits various fabric types, and designs will be printed in shapes and sizes that are ready for cutting. Visitors can learn more about the complete production process from printing and cutting to sewing via the onsite demonstration.

In addition to forums discussing how digital printing helps flexible production, there will also be an array of forums where some top domestic industry players will share their experience in resolving  technical problems in productions and satisfying requirements in different product tests.

Forward-looking events to ignite inspiration

The trend committee formed by international trendsetter the NellyRodiTM Agency has developed three themes, namely Caring Future, Crazy Future and Emo Future for the 2019 International Lifestyle Trends. Apart from the trend area where product displays are located, visitors can get a better understanding about the future living styles from the panel discussion and trend area tour. The agency’s creative director, Vincent Grégoire, will guide tours to explain the trend concept. He will also join other industry experts in the panel discussion on consumer lifestyle trends.

Another inspiring event during the show is the Future Talk in which representatives from different industries including fashion brand Shiatzy Chen, home appliance giant Haier, gourmets and lifestyle experts will share their perspectives on the future trends.

The show will be held from 27 – 30 August in the National Exhibition and Convention Center in Shanghai. Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Autumn Edition is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd; the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; and the China Home Textile Association (CHTA).

To find out more about this fair, please visit: www.intertextilehome.com.

Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles 2018 cooperates with the international trendsetter NellyRodiTM Agency again in offering the latest trend forecast to the home textile industry. Integrating different knowledge, inspirations and visions of trend evolution among the experts in the trend committee, three themes namely Caring Future, Crazy Future and Emo Future are established.
As the leading home textile trade fair in Asia, participants can always expect to see the latest items and discover the forthcoming market direction. To fulfil this, more than 1,000 suppliers from China and across the world will showcase a wide variety of products covering the whole spectrum of home furnishing, while the trend forecast, which is introduced during the show, provides both exhibitors and buyers with insight and guidance to stay ahead of the market.

This year, the show works together with the experienced international forecasting firm the NellyRodiTM Agency to form a trend committee consisting of different fields of expertise in order to gain the latest comprehension of international lifestyle forecasts. They have picked ‘FUTURE’ as the keyword of the season and three themes have been developed to illustrate this keyword.

• Caring Future: Now greener, more moral and socially oriented, creation draws from alternative imaginations to protect natural and cultural resources. It pulls inspiration from new eco-gestures and good altruist sense with a new credo – take care of nature and man
• Crazy Future: It plays on whimsical surrealism and petulance, the master of light-hearted insouciance. It plants a seed of madness in creation. Gaiety and fantasy amuse rational souls and titillate a taste for risk
• Emo Future: The need to console our cherished earth revives the emotion its immemorial beauty inspires. New nostalgia for the origin of things reconnects us to the essential. Neo-mysticism consecrates the elements and celebrates spiritual, benevolent nature. It inspires the perpetuation of the Traditions and rituals our ancestors practiced, in all their wisdom and humanism, to glorify nature 

These three themes will be demonstrated and discussed throughout the four-day fair in a series of events, while exhibitors’ products that resonate with the themes will be displayed in the Trend Area. Trend Forum tours will also take place, allowing show attendants to learn and discuss with designers and trend experts about the lifestyle trends.

Committee members with distinct specialties
The committee has contributed their expertise on retail experience, contract markets and new technologies, together with the sociological insights from an international consumer study in developing the themes. The following is an overview of the committee members.

• Mr Vincent Grégoire (France): Creative Director of NellyRodiTM Agency. Studied both interior and industrial design at the École Camondo in Paris, has been the artistic director and designer of exclusive products for the decorator Agnès Comar
• Mr Sun Yun (China): Partner and Design Director of Hangzhou Interior Architecture Design, founder of fashion brand HYSSOP Cornerstone
• Mrs Béatrice Brandt (France): Graduated from the Aix-en-Provence Graduate School of Management in Management Sciences with a major in marketing, 20 years of experience in marketing and innovation, now works as the CEO at Le Jacquard Français
• Mrs Hélène Pasteur (France): Purchasing Manager of Homeware/Leisure, Les Galeries Lafayette/BHV. Graduated from business school, entered Galeries Lafayette’s buying office in 1986 for the beauty, children’s wear, menswear, and accessory markets, managed the project that transformed BHV into BHV MARAIS from 2011 to 2014, now returns to the homeware department

More details of the trend programme will be released closer to the fair. The show will be held from 27 – 30 August at the National Exhibition and Convention Center in Shanghai