From the Sector

The mission of Accelerating Circularity is to create new supply chains and business models to turn textile waste into mainstream raw materials. Accelerating Circularity has created a working group, the Alliance of Textile Chemical Recyclers (ACTR), to meet and address the textile industry with a common voice to facilitate accurate information on textile chemical recycling.

“We formed this collective to move chemical recycling technology forward, share common definitions, and address policies in a collaborative way to maximize the elimination of textile waste to landfills and incineration” explained Karla Magruder, Founder and President of Accelerating Circularity. “Chemical recycling technology has many benefits, including quality more similar to virgin fiber and the ability to recycle multiple times.”

ACTR plans to provide the industry with information on how textile chemical recycling can:

• offer solutions for diverting textile waste to landfill
• enable textile to textile recycling versus incineration/landfill
• provide sustainably sourced/circular materials
• support brand/retailers/producers in achieving their CO2 reduction targets
• provide long term price stability and consistent supply of raw materials versus virgin

Members of the Alliance include founding members Eastman, Lenzing, and The LYCRA Company, as well as key innovators Circ®, Sappi, Renewcell, Infinited fiber, Worn Again Technologies, Gr3n, CuRe Technology, and OnceMore® from Sodra.

As a first step, the ACTR (Alliance of Chemical Textile Recycling) is introducing a dictionary of common terms developed to educate the industry on the chemical recycling of textiles.

The combination of high strength and rigidity with sustainability and a neutral carbon footprint makes flax the ideal raw material for natural fibre-reinforced plastics. vombaur offers composite textiles made of this natural fibre for the automotive, wind power, construction or sports industries and many other sectors.

Flax fibres are rigid and tear-proof. They have natural bactericidal properties, are virtually antistatic, stain resistant and easy to spin. Humans have taken advantage of these properties to manufacture robust, stain-resistant and lint-free textiles. Between the late 19^th and late 20^th centuries, cotton largely replaced natural fibres. Because flax can be grown in Europe and consumes less energy and water than cotton production, the material's importance is currently growing again, for both clothing and composites. Regional textile value added chains in Europe – flax makes them possible.

Ideal mechanical properties
vombaur makes the mechanical properties of flax usable for lightweight design. Because flax fibres are particularly rigid and tear-resistant, they ensure great stability in natural fibre-reinforced plastics (NFRPs). And thanks to their low density of 1.50 g/cm3, the fibres weigh virtually nothing. On top of this, fibre-reinforced plastics are less prone to splintering than glass fibre-reinforced plastics.

Excellent carbon footprint
The cultivation of flax binds CO₂ and the production of natural fibre-reinforced plastics (NFRPs) generates approximately one third less CO₂ emissions compared with conventional fibre-reinforced plastics. Energy consumption is substantially lower. This saves resources. The use of flax fibre tapes by vombaur in lightweight design applications also improves the product's carbon footprint and contributes to a secure, regional supply chain.

Recycling without impacting on quality
Flax offers another sustainability benefit: more recycling cycles than glass- or carbon fibre-reinforced plastics – without impacting on quality. Thermoplastic fibre-matrix prepregs are melted and reused in the recycling process. The natural fibres can be used in other products such as natural fibre-reinforced injection moulded parts.

Sustainable product developments for many industries
"Orthoses for high-performance sports, high-tech skis, wind turbines, components for the automotive industry or aerospace, but also modern window profiles – the application scope for our lightweight design flax tapes is amazingly diverse", as Carl Mrusek, Chief Sales Officer at vombaur explains. "After all, wherever flax tapes are used, three key properties come together: light weight, strength and sustainability".

The Lenzing Group, a leading provider of specialty fibers for the textile and nonwoven industries, has made significant technical improvements to its Purwakarta site (PT. South Pacific Viscose). Lenzing has invested more than EUR 100 million since 2021 to convert existing production capacity to specialty viscose. With the imminent completion of the investment, Lenzing is in a better position to serve the strongly growing demand for specialty fibers.

Lenzing is striving for certification according to the standard of the internationally recognized EU Ecolabel1. The product portfolio would thus include LENZING™ ECOVERO™ branded fibers for textiles and VEOCEL™ branded fibers for nonwoven applications. In the course of these substantial investments, Lenzing has set the goal of significantly reducing emissions at the site. Moreover, the site started to obtain renewable grid electricity and promotes a changeover to biomass in line with Lenzing's goals of reducing carbon emissions per ton of product by 50 percent by 2030 and achieving carbon-neutral production by 2050.

“Demand for specialty fibers with low environmental impacts continues to grow structurally. We see enormous growth potential in Asia in particular. Through our investments in Indonesia and also at other Lenzing sites worldwide, we are in a better position to serve this growing demand. At the same time, we continue working tirelessly to make the industries in which we operate even more sustainable and to drive the transformation of the textile business model from linear to circular,” says Stephan Sielaff, Chief Executive Officer of the Lenzing Group.

The Lenzing Group, a world-leading provider of specialty fibers for the textile and nonwoven industries, has been awarded platinum status in the EcoVadis CSR rating. The rating comprehensively covers the four most important practices in the area of corporate social responsibility: environment, fair working conditions and human rights, as well as ethics and sustainable procurement.

For the third time, Lenzing has been awarded Platinum status for its sustainability performance by EcoVadis, a leading international provider of sustainability ratings for companies. This puts Lenzing in the top one percent of companies worldwide rated by EcoVadis.

EcoVadis has become the world's largest and most trusted provider of corporate sustainability ratings since its founding in 2007, creating a global network of more than 100,000 rated companies worldwide. The methodological framework assesses companies' policies, actions and activities, as well as their published reports, related to the environment, labor and human rights, ethics and sustainable procurement.

In line with its sustainability strategy “Naturally positive”, the Lenzing Group has set ambitious targets in each of its core strategic areas to further strengthen its path from a linear to a circular economy model. Lenzing reports annually on the corresponding implementation measures and the progress made in its sustainability report. This level of commitment and transparency was particularly positively highlighted by EcoVadis in its assessment. The rating provider also emphasized the Lenzing Group's comprehensive measures in the areas of environment, ethics, and labor and human rights.

Climate change is causing temperatures to rise and storms to increase. Especially in inner cities, summers are becoming a burden for people. While densification makes use of existing infrastructure and avoids urban sprawl, it increases the amount of sealed surfaces. This has a negative impact on the environment and climate. Green facades bring more green into cities. If textile storage structures are used, they can even actively contribute to flood protection. The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research (DITF) have developed a corresponding "Living Wall".

The plants on the green facades are supplied with water and nutrients via an automatic irrigation system. The "Living Walls" operate largely autonomously. Sensory yarns detect the water and nutrient content. The effort for care and maintenance is low.

Innovative hydraulic textile structures regulate water flow. The rock wool plant substrate on which the plants grow has a large volume in a small space thanks to its structure. Depending on how heavy the precipitation is, the rainwater is stored in a textile structure and later used to irrigate the plants. In the event of heavy rainfall, the excess water is discharged into the sewage system with a time delay. In this way, the "Living Walls" developed at the DITF help to make efficient use of water as a resource in post-densified urban areas.

The research project also scientifically investigated the cooling performance of a green facade. Modern textile technology in the substrate promotes the "transpiration" of the plants. This creates evaporative cooling and lowers temperatures in the surrounding area.

The work of the Denkendorf research team also included a cost-benefit calculation and a life-cycle analysis. Based on the laboratory and outdoor studies, a "green value" was defined that can be used to evaluate and compare the effect of greening buildings as a whole.

Bangladesh will stage the world’s first climate conference for the fashion industry this autumn, on 12 October. The Bangladesh Climate Action Forum will convene policy makers, garment manufacturers, fashion retailers and other industry stakeholders to look at solutions for decarbonising global textile supply chains.

The event will focus on technological and financial challenges around reducing emissions. Most of the world’s leading fashion brands have now set ambitious targets for reducing supply chain emissions. These targets relate to 2030 by which time many brands aim to reduce emissions by 50 per cent, and 2050 where most fashion brands aim to be carbon neutral.

The Bangladesh Climate Forum Action will examine causes of climate crisis, its urgency, impacts we have already seen, and what we can expect under both businesses as usual and rapid decarbonisation scenarios.

Also presenting at the event will be the Government of Bangladesh, which will address Bangladesh’s actions to mitigate the impacts of the climate crisis. Bangladesh is particularly vulnerable to climate change and is ranked the seventh extreme disaster risk-prone country in the world according to a report from the Global Climate Risk Index 2021. Tropical cyclones, tornadoes, floods, coastal and riverbank erosion, droughts and landslides are the major climate-induced hazards in Bangladesh.

The Bangladesh Climate Forum Action will also look at approaches towards decarbonization, including NetZero goals and timelines. Speakers will discuss globally recognised pathways for electricity/transportation/industry decarbonisation.

Renewable energy will also be under discussion. If fashion brands are to hit climate targets, it is imperative that supply chains switch to renewable energy and away from gas and fossil fuels. The event will look at challenges around the de-carbonisation of the electricity grid in Bangladesh, as well as the rate of transition toward renewable resources by garment factories, including solar power.

A key element of the event will be evaluation of practical solutions for Bangladesh’s RMG industry. It will profile specific solutions such as energy efficiency, machine upgrades, the electrification of thermal loads, direct power purchase agreements and biomass fed thermal systems. It will also discuss the challenges faced in the industry including business climate (and cycles), pricing, financing challenges, target setting and execution, policy opportunities, knowledge gaps and availability/scaling of solutions.

Financial challenges around decarbonisation of supply chains are significant, and it is far from clear who will pay for the technological upgrades required. While some investment support systems exist – such as lower interest financing – these are not always available, accessible or affordable for the majority of the RMG companies.

The event will explore financial options, changes to business/pricing models, opportunities for de-risking/underwriting investments, direct investment and other tools that need to emerge to address financial challenges and plug the funding gap. The event will also explore opportunities to decouple climate action from business cycles so that the 2030 targets can be met.

• The A+A Expert Talks head into their third round

On 20 June 2023 between 10.00 am and 11.30 am experts from the fields of sustainability, circular economy, environmental protection as well as corporate fashion and product management will be presenting lectures and discussing the topics of sustainability in supply chains, standardisation and quality seals as well as the associated challenges and solutions in cooperation with German Fashion. They will thereby provide a platform for the exchange of knowledge, experience and innovative approaches.

The focus on sustainability and the circular economy reflects the growing relevance of these topics in the world of work. More and more companies recognise the need to make their business practices more sustainable and optimise the use of resources.

This Expert Talk will be presented by Irina Olm, In-House Lawyer & Counsel of GermanFashion Modeverband Deutschland e.V. and Expert for Circular Economy and CSR, who will contribute her know-how on the European level.  

Benjamin Helfritz, Head of Quality in Digital and Green Transformation, DIN – German Institute for Standardisation, will introduce participants to the new standards for the Green Transition.  
The Digital Product Passport (DPP) is needed for both the green and digital transition. However, it will only achieve its full added value if interoperability is ensured between existing and emerging systems. The use of the DPP promotes more sustainability and digital progress.

Henk Vanhoutte, Secretary General, European Safety Federation (ESF) and Lucia Mendori, Regulatory Affairs Associate / Chair ESF Working Group Sustainability will present practical examples and concrete application factors for sustainable PPE as well as solutions for sustainable jobwear. They will provide an overview of survey results from their members regarding various sustainability aspects – pointing to how the industry is treating this important topic but also flagging up the limits to the sustainability of PPE.

Lena Bay Høyland, Product Director of the Swedish workwear manufacturer Fristads Kansas will share the sustainability strategy of her company which has committed to minimise its environmental impact by targets and effective measures. The progress made by Fristads Kansas was measured using concrete figures and audits. This is a use case highlighting the innovations and challenges associated with sustainable jobwear.

By organising the Expert Talks the leading international trade fair A+A jointly with its strategic partners from the German Federal Association for Occupational Safety and Health (Basi), Fraunhofer IPA, German Fashion (Modeverband Deutschland e.V.), DGUV (Germany Statutory Accident Insurance), BAuA (Federal Agency for Occupational Safety and Health), BMAS (Ministry of Labour and Social Affairs), IVPS Interessenverbund Persönliche Schutzausrüstung e.V. (PPE Stakeholder Association) as well as IFA (Institute for Occupational Safety) will provide its community with a networking and information platform.

Silence and resource efficiency are the order of the day in the development and optimization of electric vehicles. On the one hand, ever stricter emissions regulations worldwide are increasing demand for components that reduce noise pollution while helping vehicle manufacturers meet their sustainability targets. On the other hand, the absence of noise from the combustion engine in e-cars amplifies the disruptive effects of other noise sources in the passenger compartment. With Ultra-
Silent Tune, Autoneum now presents a new lightweight and environmentally friendly technology for underbody shields that reduces tire rolling noise both outside and inside the vehicle, thus improving not only acoustic performance but also driver comfort in electric cars.

Autoneum's Ultra-Silent Tune technology owes its sound-absorbing performance to acoustic chambers of different shapes and sizes. The chambers are created by applying an embossed polyester foil to the side of the Ultra-Silent underbody shield facing away from the noise source: they capture the sound waves emitted by the car tires, modulate them according to their respective geometry and reflect them back onto the porous carrier material. Compared to conventional single-layer underbody shields, whose acoustic performance is mainly determined by the noise-reducing properties of the product side facing the tires, Ultra-Silent Tune exploits both sides of the component, which significantly improves its acoustic absorption. Autoneum thus makes innovative use of the proven concept of traditional chamber absorbers, reducing exterior tire rolling noise.

Moreover, Ultra-Silent Tune combines optimized acoustic performance with the sustainability benefits of Autoneum's Pure technology Ultra-Silent. In addition to the high proportion of recycled PET fibers, underbody shields made from Ultra-Silent Tune can be manufactured from 100% polyester and thus be fully recycled at the end of vehicle life. Furthermore, the thickness of the multilayer construction can be flexibly adapted to the packaging spaces of different vehicle models. Underbody shields made from Autoneum's new Ultra-Silent Tune technology are already in pre-development at various vehicle manufacturers in Europe.

With the short slogan ‘NOW’ INNATEX, which takes place from 29 to 31 July 2023 at the Exhibition Centre in Hofheim-Wallau, enters the summer season. The 52nd International Trade Fair for Sustainable Fashion close to Frankfurt am Main is using the slogan to express the urgent need for a sustainable transformation in the fashion industry.

Lounge Area with new themes and collaboration partners
Alongside its well established and constructive partnerships with, for example, the Hessen Retail Federation and Mirjam Smend of Greenstyle Munich and Pureviu, the organisers MUVEO GmbH have entered into a new collaboration agreement with Fashion Changers. The two heads behind this Berlin-based initiative, Nina Lorenzen and Vreni Jäckle, will be holding and moderating two Lounge Talks on the Saturday. On the Sunday and Monday, the other partners will be contributing to the programme with additional experts.

“We are currently discussing several themes for the Lounge Talks, such as size inclusivity and branding strategies for fashion businesses in the digital age,” says Alexander Hitzel, Project Manager for INNATEX. “The new Community Lounge, which brings together the Talks, DESIGN DISCOVERIES and information stands with experts, first appeared in the winter. We still shan’t be putting together a non-stop programme, though, because as an ordering fair INNATEX continues to focus on concentrated working.”

Green Fashion is NOW: Creativity and mood of optimism in the industry
In the community, Hitzel says he perceives an attitude that is far from lethargic, due to the recent crisis-laden years. Among the 220+ exhibitors, several are expanding or even doubling their stand areas. Some labels are announcing entirely new lines as part of their market response. And even traditional textile producers are revealing fresher looks, getting into discussions with suppliers and testing new materials.

“We are excited about the summer fair, because we are already noting an extraordinary degree of creativity and dynamism – which is good!” comments Hitzel. “We need a sustainable counterweight to ultra-fast fashion more than ever.”

Newcomers and labels exhibiting for the first time still have until 1 June 2023 to apply to be DESIGN DISCOVERIES.

Fashion for Good welcomes twelve new start-ups to its Global Platform. The selected Innovators will participate in a nine-month innovation programme with bespoke support to validate their technologies in preparation for implementation across the fashion value chain.

The selected innovators represent technologies across Raw Materials, Processing, Traceability & Transparency, Circular Business Models and End of Use.

The selected innovators joining the Fashion for Good 2023 Innovation Programme are: Virent, Inc., ZimoChem Inc, Polybion, Saltico Ltd, Lamoral Coatings B.V., CleanKore LLC, RESPONSIBLE, Qingdao Amino Material Technology Co., Ltd.,Protein Evolution, Inc., DePoly, Ioncell Oy, and SATMA CE.