From the Sector

International technology group ANDRITZ has received an order from Fouani, Nigeria, to supply two baby diaper lines for its facilities in Lagos. The lines will produce a wide range of diaper products with absorbent cores made of pulp and SAP (super absorbent polymer). Start-up is scheduled for 2022.

Fouani Nigeria Ltd was established in 2001 as a subsidiary of the Fouani Group of Companies. The company has grown to be a pioneer and the sole distributor of LG, Hisense, and Maxi products in Nigeria, Africa, thus winning several awards for its proactive market penetration.

The two baby diaper lines feature the most advanced forming technology for the absorbent core and SAP dosing.The lines are equipped with a web tensioning control system and quality check devices to ensure a high level of production quality. In addition, ANDRITZ will provide services for installation and start-up of the machines.

Sateri’s Lyocell facility in Rizhao, Shandong Province, has been awarded the Sustainable Textile Production (STeP) certification for responsible production, making it the first Lyocell producer in China to be certified to the rigorous standards set by independent Swiss-based certification organisation OEKO-TEX®. Sateri’s Lyocell facility has also obtained the highest ranking of level three in the certification assessment scoring for exemplary implementation of best manufacturing practices.

Together with its earlier achievement of the STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® certification that confirms its Lyocell fibre is free from any harmful substances and complies with European standards, Sateri’s lyocell products are qualified to carry the MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX® product label. This label not only attests to Sateri’s Lyocell fibre as safe and manufactured in environmentally-friendly, socially responsible and safe facility, but also the Group’s commitment to higher levels of transparency and accountability through the product traceability feature of the label.

The STeP by OEKO-TEX® certification comprises three levels describing the extent to which a company has achieved sustainable production and working conditions of factories in the textile industry. The areas of assessment include chemicals management, environmental performance, environmental management, social responsibility, quality management, as well as occupational health and safety.

Sateri’s Lyocell fiber factory in Rizhao commenced operation in May 2020, with an annual output of 20,000 tonnes of Lyocell fiber. The same site houses a 5,000 tonne Lyocell pilot production line dedicated for the development of Lyocell application technology. In March 2021, the Group announced plans to expand its Lyocell annual production capacity in China up to 500,000 tonnes by 2025.

A natural and biodegradable fibre, Sateri’s Lyocell is made from wood pulp sourced from certified and sustainable plantations. It is manufactured using closed-loop technology, requiring minimal chemical input during the production process, and utilising an organic solvent that can be almost fully (99.7%) recovered and recycled.

Sateri’s Lyocell is used to produce high quality textiles and personal hygiene materials. Using a unique high technology manufacturing process, it has outstanding dry and wet strength, high uniformity and consistency, and superior quality. It blends well with various textile fibres to create different fabric styles and characteristics for wide downstream applications.

In the Canopy’s 2021 Hot Button Ranking, Kelheim Fibres once again occupies a leading position: With a increase of 2.5 points in the evaluation, the Bavarian viscose speciality fibre manufacturer tied for third place out of around 40 viscose fibre manufacturers worldwide and a dark green/green shirt for the second year running. The Hot Button Report not only stands for responsible raw material sourcing - it is an overall sustainability indicator for viscose fibre producers.

Especially in the areas of transparency and procurement, the NGO Canopy, which is committed to the preservation of ancient and endangered forests, awarded Kelheim Fibres top points: Kelheim Fibres is the only EMAS-certified viscose fibre manufacturer worldwide and publishes all environmentally relevant data publicly.

Kelheim Fibres also gained points in the area of "Next Generation Solutions" - the use of alternative raw materials in fibre production. Together with the Swedish textile recycling company Renewcell, the fibre experts are planning to realise the large-scale production of high-quality viscose fibres from up to 10,000 tonnes of the 100% textile recyclate Circulose® per year.

The Swedish textile recycling company, Renewcell, has chosen AFRY as partner in order to digitalize production operations in their plants in Kristinehamn and Sundsvall, Sweden. AFRY will deliver an Industrial IT solution, containing AFRY MES and AFRY ProTAK, to manage production information and secure both high quality, as well as high overall efficiency in the production. The delivered solution will serve as a hub for all production process information.

Renewcell is a multi-award-winning textile recycling company based in Sweden. With the technology they have developed, the company has succeeded in recycling and regenerating textile fiber from old clothes to turn it back into fiber pulp. Renewcell has had a production site in Kristinehamn since 2017 and is now scaling up the production in their new production plant in Sundsvall. The new plant is expected to be operating during the first half of 2022. “Modern production and logistics require a high level of digitalization to meet the demands for, e.g., traceability, and therefore the systems and experience from AFRY will be very important to us,” says Ylva Stjernquist, Supply Chain Manager and Project Leader at Renewcell.

AFRY has a long experience in Industrial IT and will now deliver the two leading, closely integrated digital solutions for production management to Renewcell. The AFRY MES (Manufacturing Execution System) is a highly advanced digital information system that connects, monitors, and controls the complex production systems and data flows of the production processes. AFRY ProTAK is a digital tool that measures the effectiveness of a plant’s production machine performance. The system gathers information from different sources (e.g., DCS, MES, Maintenance) and combines that with the operators’ notes to calculate or present Overall Equipment Efficiency (OEE), which will lead to optimized production and increased profitability.

Together these tools will improve traceability and secure a high production efficiency by integrating data from all production systems and equipment. “We are focusing on improving sustainability within process industries, and it is therefore an honor to be part of Renewcell’s textile recycling through a full-scale digitalized solution. Our modern and competitive digital solution will definitely bring added value to these types of processes,” says David Andersson, Business Segment Manager Digitalization, AFRY Process Industries Sweden.  

AFRY MES and AFRY ProTAK will be installed to both Kristinehamn and Sundsvall plants. The installation is planned to be up and running during Q2 2022.

Composites Evolution exhibited at the Advanced Engineering 2021 show on 3rd - 4th November highlighting its range of prepreg and introducing a new thermoplastic tape manufacturing capability.

Composites Evolution is a developer, manufacturer and supplier of prepregs for the production of lightweight structures from composite materials. A flexible approach allows Composites Evolution to offer short lead times and low minimum order quantities, while decades of combined expertise ensure that in-depth technical support is on-hand when customers need it.

Showcased was a battery box from a high-performance luxury electric vehicle manufactured from Evopreg® PFC bio-based, fire-resistant prepreg, a rear wing from a Ginetta G56 GTA GT4 race car utilising Evopreg® ampliTex™ natural fibre prepreg, and parts fabricated from the company’s newly-launched Evopreg® PA thermoplastic tape range.

Composites Evolution has a family of specialist prepregs for various applications, including Evopreg® EPC epoxy component prepregs which are a range of pre-impregnated fabrics suitable for moulding into high-performance, lightweight, structural components; Evopreg® EPT epoxy tooling prepregs which have been designed to help composite tooling manufacturers improve the flexibility and efficiency of their tooling manufacturing processes; and Evopreg® PFC fire-retardant prepregs a 100% bio-derived alternative to phenolics for applications where fire performance is a critical requirement.

Evopreg® ampliTex™ combines Composite Evolution’s high-performance Evopreg® epoxy resin systems with Bcomp’s award-winning ampliTex™ flax reinforcements, to deliver a family of materials which offer outstanding performance for component applications.

Composites Evolution launched their new range of Evopreg® PA Thermoplastic Tapes at Advanced Engineering; these are manufactured from polyamide-6 (PA6) polymer with unidirectional carbon fibre and are suitable for automated tape laying, winding and compression moulding into high-performance, lightweight components.

INDEX™20 opened its doors, after an 18 month’ wait, delighted to welcome the nonwoven industry back to Geneva with open arms. The exhibition floor was busting with activity and anticipation at the prospect of new business.  

Over 500 exhibitors from 44 countries were present at the event, premiering their latest innovations. The resounding message was one of a positive outcome and an inspiring vision of the industry’s future across the spectrum of applications sectors.

The industry continued to evolve dramatically during the pandemic, and expectations were high as players from across the industry worldwide came together for the first time since 2017. Exhibitors said their expectations were exceeded, citing the high quality of the visitors present, converging on INDEX™ to conclude new business projects.

Over 9,300 visitor entries were recorded on-site, and over a thousand on the virtual platform. 

As the industry’s first hybrid industry event, many attendees made the most of the interactive INDEX™ virtual platform by arranging video meetings and messaging as well live exchanges. It also meant those unable to attend personally benefitted from the rich Sector Seminar programme and a wide variety Exhibitor Product Presentations.

The Innovation Lab opened its doors for the first time, demonstrating the sheer diversity of applications in which nonwovens are employed. The spotlight was on nominees of the INDEX™ Innovation Awards, and the winners presented with their coveted bronze statues designed by Belgian artist Olivier Strebelle. This initiative demonstrates the innovative properties and uses of nonwovens across a wide range of sectors, demonstrating the exciting future of the industry and its suppliers.

INDEX™23 will take place from 18 to 21 April 2023.

The German speciality viscose fibre manufacturer Kelheim Fibres was awarded gold in the CSR rating by EcoVadis, scoring among the top 3% of all companies evaluated. The rating was well above average in all four individual areas (environment, labour and human rights, ethics, sustainable procurement), but Kelheim Fibres achieved absolute top scores in the environment area in particular.

In addition to the excellent EcoVadis rating, Kelheim Fibres is also the first viscose fibre producer worldwide with a certified EMAS environmental management system and ranked highly in the Canadian NGO Canopy's "Hot Button Report" for sustainable wood and pulp sourcing.

Since its founding in 2007, EcoVadis has grown to become the world’s largest and most trusted provider of business sustainability ratings, creating a global network of more than 75,000 rated companies.

• From C.L.A.S.S. ICON 2021 to Special Project at WHITE Milan, the streetstyle Portuguese brand shows urban outfits for everyday heroes fighting for the environment, with a holistic approach to sustainability

After being rewarded with the 2021 C.L.A.S.S. Icon Award, the Portuguese brand Duarte is ready to present its Spring/Summer 2022 collection developed with C.L.A.S.S. ecohub support. The streetwear designer Ana Duarte has worked in close contact with the Milanese hub in order to create a 40 pieces collection where the approach to materials, suppliers, new business models and communication could include and support a holistic view of the sustainable values aligned with style, performances, look and touch and Duarte identity.

The inspiration behind the collection is the superhero Tadao - Ana Duarte’s dog, an English Cocker Spaniel - which is the World Keeper fighting against the environmental issues mankind has generated. Like a protector of sustainability, it battles modern monsters as Smog Man, Fire Man, Deforestation Man and Wave man, who respectively represent the issues of air pollution, climate change, forest destruction and water overconsumption. A very simple, direct and engaging way of talking about hot topics and simple, direct solutions.

The collection is made of 20 outfits, mainly unisex apart from some of them typically feminine as the crop tops. Hints of bright red and mustard yellow are alternated with denim, grey and pale azure tones, blending in with the colorful prints. Accents of black - used in inserts or as piping - seem to emphasize the outline of the garments. The different textures of the materials create a sense of movement, further enhanced by the unique patterns. All the garments’ prints are exclusively designed by the designer, following each collection inspiration: this time, they recall urban landscapes and the appeal of big metropolis, with Tadao as protagonist in prints, patches and ankle socks.

Among the most representative Duarte outfits we find:

• A matching sweater with trousers made of Newlife™, a yarn 100% made In Italy coming only from post- consumer, traceable plastic bottles.
• A unisex oversized bomber is crafted from Newlife™, lined with precious 100% Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei fabric by Gianni Crespi Foderami and matched with printed neoprene hoodie and shorts.
• Long-panelled unisex coat and trousers made with ReLAST® denim by Candiani, a responsible textile featuring a premium recycled stretch yarn, ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei. The coat is lined with a fabric by Gianni Crespi Foderami in 100% Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei, a new generation material made from the smart-tech transformation of cotton linter.
• The same sustainable stretch yarn is implied in the responsible tulle by Iluna Group, and featured in a shorts and top women’s ensemble, paired with a neoprene printed bomber. The tulle is skillfully matched with 100% Tencel™ back in the loop fabric by Maeba International underneath it.

Ana Duarte is part of a new generation of designers with a new approach to sourcing and production: her research goes into different kind of business models to fit her responsible innovation and style needs at the same time. That’s why in her collection we can find amazing and unique combination of organic, recycled, Back in The Loop, innovative materials that are the right choice for the look&touch and the performance she’s looking for. The result is cool yet respecting people and the environment in full traceability thanks to certified and sometimes even circular solutions. Working with components from various sources and business models requires a certain expertise and a particular sensibility we find in Ana Duarte’s design solutions and in her responsible interpretation of streetwear.

• Next-Gen Technologies for Nonwovens/Engineered Materials
• Canopy Respirator from Canopy Wins Innovation Award

145 professionals in product development, material science, and new technologies convened for the 11th conference edition of RISE®—Research, Innovation & Science for Engineered Fabrics, held virtually, Sept. 28-30. The event was co-organized by INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, The Nonwovens Institute, and North Carolina State University.

The program focused on Nonwoven Material Science Developments, Sustainability, Increasing Circularity, Promising Innovations, Process Innovations, Material Innovations, Government/NGO Challenges to Single-Use Plastics, Machine-Assisted-Learning Development of Biopolymers, and Market Intelligence and Economic Insights.

Participants praised the high-quality program content, in-depth round table discussions, networking and Q&A’s where participants ask expert speakers questions pertaining to their focused presentations.

Highlights among the 26 presentations included

• Sustainable Solutions for our Plastic Planet Predicament, by Marc A. Hillmyer, Ph.D., McKnight Presidential Endowed Chair, University of Minnesota;
• Closed-Loop Recycling Pilot of Single-Use Face Masks by Peter Dziezok, Ph.D., Director of Open Innovation, Proctor & Gamble;
• Innovating a Sustainable Future for Nonwovens: A European Perspective, by Matt Tipper, Ph.D., CEO, Nonwovens Innovation & Research Institute (NIRI);
• Phantom Platform: The Polyolefin-cellulose Coformed Substrates Technology, by Fabio Zampollo, CEO and Founder of Teknoweb Materials; 
• Guiding Environmentally Sustainable Innovations – From Reactive to Proactive Life Cycle Management, by Valentina Prado, Ph.D., Senior Sustainability Analyst, EarthShift Global LLC;  
• High-Loft, Ultra-Soft Hygiene Solutions, Paul E. Rollin, Ph.D., Senior Principal Scientist – Global Hygiene, Propylene-Vistamaxx-Adhesion (PVA) Global Technology, ExxonMobil Chemical Company;
• Canadian Plastic Policy Update, by Karyn M. Schmidt, Senior Director, Regulatory & Technical Affairs, American Chemistry Council (ACC).

Other highlights included the announcement of Canopy Respirator as the winner of this year’s RISE® Innovation Award winner. The annual award recognizes innovation in areas within and on the periphery of the nonwovens industry which use advanced science and engineering principles to develop unique or intricate solutions to problems and advance the usage of nonwovens.

RISE® Innovation Award Winner
The RISE® Innovation Award was presented to Canopy for their Canopy Respirator. The productis an innovative respirator that is fully mechanical, non-electrostatic, with a filter designed for superior breathability while offering the wearer facial transparency. The breakthrough respirator features 5.5mm water column resistance at 85 liters (3 cubic feet) per minute, 2-way filtration, and a pleated filter that contains over 500 square centimeters of surface area. The patented Canopy respirator resists fluids, and eliminates fogging of eyeglasses.

Textechno reports launch of a new standard for the drapability and deformability of fabrics and non-wovens: ISO 21765

World market leader for precision testing equipment Textechno and their partner SAERTEX, global market leader in non-crimp fabrics (NCF) are proud to announce that the newly developed international standard ISO 21765:2020 to quantify material behaviour in terms of drapability and deformability was recently published by ISO.

The new standard ISO 21765 allows the world-wide comparable measurement of all relevant parameters regarding the deformability and drapability of all kinds of fabrics, including woven fabrics and NCFs as well as knitted fabrics and non-wovens on Textechno´s precision testing equipment DRAPETEST. This can be very useful in the carbon fibre recycling since one of the most efficient applications of recycled carbon fibres will be in non-wovens.

This is the first testing instrument world-wide to quantify not only the force which is required for deforming a fabric, but also the various defects such as gaps, undulation, or wrinkles which can arise due to the deformation.

In the frame of a publicly funded project which started in 2011, Textechno developed the award-winning automatic drapability tester DRAPETEST along with other partners, amongst them SAERTEX.  

Dietmar Möcke, CTO at SAERTEX says: „With ISO 21765, we finally have a standardized testing method with world-wide validity. It allows us to provide our customers with comparable and reproducible measurement values regarding the draping characteristics of our products.”

Ulrich Mörschel, Managing Director of Textechno adds: “We are grateful for the support from all around the world allowing us to establish the new ISO standard. The standard finally fills a gap in the testing methods for fabrics both in the fields of textiles and composites.”

Dr. Michael Effing, Managing Director of AMAC GmbH and Senior Advisor to Textechno: “A lot of research is dedicated to new production technologies of composites, non-crimp fabrics and classical fabrics for thermosets have with 33 % a significant market share in the production of all composite materials. The application of the new standard for non-wovens from recycled carbon fibres comes perfectly on time for this market sector which will gain more and more importance within the next years.