From the Sector

Protective gloves, such as those used for work, sport or household gardening, retrieve their protective function from a special coating. This coating provides abrasion resistance, makes the material waterproof and resistant to chemicals or oil, and even protects against cuts and punctures. Until now, coatings made of oil-based polymers, nitrile rubber or latex have been the main materials used. Scientists at the German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) have succeeded in developing a robust yet flexible glove coating using environmentally friendly lignin in a 3D printing process.

Coatings that are subject to mechanical stress always suffer from a certain degree of abrasion that is dispersed in the surrounding area. This is also the case with coated protective gloves. In order to avoid long-term pollution of the environment, materials should be used whose abrasion particles are biodegradable. The aim of the research project was to improve conventional protective equipment and integrate more sustainable materials.

The biopolymer lignin is a natural component of plant cells that is produced in large quantities as a by-product of paper manufacturing. Due to its properties, it represents an environmentally friendly alternative to oil-based coating polymers.

The scientists developed biopolymer compounds containing lignin, which were used to produce thermoplastic materials that can be processed using 3D printing.

Lignin has few polar groups, which makes lignins hydrophobic and therefore insoluble in water. For this reason, they biodegrade slowly. This makes them particularly suitable for durable coating materials.

Despite this durability, lignin particles that are released into the environment through abrasion biodegrade faster than the abrasion of conventional coatings. This is due to the much higher surface/volume ratio.

The use of 3D printing makes it possible to produce the coating precisely and efficiently. The 3D printing process also makes it possible to adapt the glove to the individual needs of the wearer. This increases wearer comfort and promotes freedom of movement.

The research project shows that the use of lignin not only offers ecological benefits, but that protective gloves coated with it are also particularly durable and resistant. They meet safety standards and at the same time contribute to sustainability in the world of work.

Archroma, specialist in chemicals towards sustainable solutions, Kipaş Denim, a Turkish company with a focus on integrated textile production, and Jeanologia, a sustainable textile solutions company, are collaborating to pioneer a new denim finishing process for enhanced aesthetic appeal and greater sustainability.

Combining their advanced technologies, the three textile innovators are behind the launch of Kipaş Denim’s new Contra Denim concept – a breakthrough in denim dyeing and finishing that enables brands to create stunning and long-lasting distressed looks and designs effects, including intricate patterns, whiskering and fades, through cleaner processes that save water and energy and reduce greenhouse gas emissions.

Denim has traditionally been challenging to produce, especially for black and indigo fabric with a worn or distressed look, requiring significant water usage, harmful chemicals and intensive manual labor. The Contra Denim collection is laser- and laundry-friendly, with colors that are deep and durable. Stunning wash-down vintage effects and high contrasts are achieved via washing or laser techniques.

Contra Denim is based on Archroma’s DENIM HALO, a new approach to denim production that incorporates resource-saving pretreatment that includes DIRSOL® RD and dyeing processes to produce easy-wash laser-friendly denim. It delivers a substantially reduced environmental footprint compared to the industry-standard denim finishing process while reducing yarn shrinkage and improving garment tensile strength.

The Contra Denim’s vintage looks are achieved with advanced laser marking technology from Jeanologia. Thanks to the combination of Archroma and Jeanologia technologies, manual hand scraping or potassium permanganate spraying harmful for workers and the environment are completely eliminated.

Fernando Cardona, Brain Box Team Manager, Jeanologia, said: “As a purpose-driven textile technology company, we take pride in working with partners to accompany them through their transformational processes. We are delighted to work with industry leaders such as Archroma and Kipaş Denim, who are at the forefront of responsible denim production.”

Initially producing a ContraBlack Denim collection, Kipaş Denim has now extended the Contra line to classic indigo and other colors from the DIRESUL® RDT range.

The ContraBlack collection earned a Jeanologia Environmental Impact Measurement (EIM) score of 11 on stone wash versus the ring dyeing market standard score of 67. This confirms the low impact of the ContraBlack range in both water and energy consumption, chemical impact and workers’ health.

For the second year running, Global Standard is taking consumers #BehindTheSeams this September, highlighting the sustainable and social qualities of GOTS-certified products – from runway fashion to hygiene products and so much more in between. Building on the success of last year, #BehindTheSeams 2024 has expanded to take over the entire month, Sept. 2-30, with more education on the people and practices making sustainable textiles, plus giveaways planned each day.

Throughout September, Global Standard introduces daily giveaways on Instagram, featuring partnerships with GOTS-certified brands such as Frugi, FC St. Pauli, LangerChen, Natracare, Mandala, Dedicated, and more. Additionally, a giveaway will be hosted on behindtheseams.eco, where visitors can learn about sustainability by answering daily questions while earning entries. The grand prize is a sustainable trip to Paris. This includes train travel, a two-night stay at the eco-friendly Eden Lodge Paris and a private fitting for a custom GOTS-certified jacket by John Preston, the only brand offering made-to-measure GOTS-certified fashion.

#BehindTheSeams is also spotlighting "organic in-conversion" farming and urging brands to support farmers during the critical transition period from conventional to organic. In this campaign, GOTS has partnered with the Organic Cotton Accelerator, an organisation dedicated to supporting farmers throughout the cotton supply chain as they make the shift to and sustain organic practices. Together, GOTS and OCA want to send a message that brands can bolster the organic cotton supply by investing in and buying organic in-conversion cotton.

DyStar has published its Integrated Sustainability Report for FY2023/24. For the past 14 years, DyStar has formally reported on its sustainability performance in accordance with the Global Reporting Initiative (GRI) Standards. This report also adopts the Integrated Reporting <IR> framework, which outlines the company's environmental, social, and governance (ESG) practices through the lens of six major capitals.

DyStar has demonstrated the effectiveness of its strategy in the latest report. For instance, their efforts in implementing energy-efficient initiatives across its operations have started to yield credible results. DyStar’s Scope 1 and Scope 2 emissions totaled 42,084 tCO2e, representing a 67% decrease from 2011’s baseline year and a 26% decrease compared to FY2022. Scope 3 accounted for 8.2% of DyStar’s total emissions profile, with over 80% primarily stemming from the transportation of goods and services.

In terms of energy management, the Group has increased its use of renewable energy by 20%. Additionally, several energy conservation initiatives have been implemented as part of a concerted effort to reduce energy consumption globally.

Operationally, there have been several improvements to procedures aimed at boosting water efficiency and achieving cost savings at all manufacturing sites.

Wastewater discharge was reduced by 37%, improving the intensity level to 8.04 m³ per ton of production compared to 8.71 m³ per ton the previous year. This improvement is also partially due to some of their sites operating under a “Zero Liquid Discharge Scheme” mandated by local authorities.

Key highlights of FY2023 include:

• Participated at ITMA Milan, where DyStar introduced a new range of bio-based DyStar products, dyes and auxiliaries containing renewable feedstock, as well as the Eco-Advanced Indigo Dyeing process.
• Recognition by the Institute of Public & Environmental Affairs (IPE), achieving second place on IPE’s Green Supply Chain Corporate Information Transparency Index (CITI).
• Celebrating diversity and inclusivity through global campaigns.

Cascale, formerly the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, has published a white paper that details how the organization’s Higg Brand & Retail Module (BRM) can help companies meet their regulatory reporting obligations under European Union (EU) law. The paper, titled “How the Higg BRM Supports CSRD Reporting Obligations,” speaks specifically to how the tool is continually evolving to support companies in meeting their regulatory reporting requirements under the EU’s Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD).

In the face of today’s challenging and ever-changing legislative landscape, brands and retailers require reliable tools to support them in meeting compliance requirements. The Higg BRM is the leading framework specific to the textile, apparel, and footwear industry designed for brands and retailers to evaluate, assess, and improve Environmental, Social, and Governance (ESG) performance. The tool assesses 11 critical impact areas along global value chains to foster a holistic approach to sustainability, and is available on Worldly, a sustainability data and insights platform.

The Higg BRM has evolved to assist brands and retailers in fulfilling reporting obligations, while also supporting companies in the development of consistent corporate sustainability strategies to streamline efforts and reduce redundancy across sustainability initiatives. Beginning in 2024, Cascale conducted a thorough analysis of the European Sustainability Reporting Standards (ESRS), which provides specific guidance on how companies should report on sustainability. Cascale mapped how the standards align with the Higg BRM, offering a clear pathway for organizations aiming to comply with ESRS. As detailed in the white paper, there is a 65 percent content overlap between the ESRS and the Higg BRM.

While the Higg BRM aligns broadly with ESRS on sustainability topics, it also delves deeper into issues that are specific to the textile, apparel, and footwear sector. This focus on sector-specific material issues ensures Higg BRM users can expect a comprehensive tool that not only meets general reporting requirements but also emphasizes the nuances and priorities unique to the industry.

Cascale is currently hosting an ongoing webinar series titled “Navigating Legislation & the Higg Index,” which highlights how the Higg Index tools serve as a valuable resource and can offer specific guidance on reporting requirements. The most recent webinar, co-hosted by Cascale and Worldly, provided an in-depth discussion on how the Higg BRM intersects with key pieces of legislation at the EU level, such as the CSRD.

Cascale is committed to continuously evolving, updating, and refining the Higg Index to meet the needs of its members, Higg Index users, and the industry. In collaboration with Worldly, the Higg BRM will be further refined to enhance alignment with the CSRD and other relevant regulations. By identifying and bridging gaps, the Higg BRM continues to support stakeholders in achieving a more structured and transparent approach to sustainability reporting.

The Lenzing Group has been awarded platinum status in the EcoVadis CSR rating. The rating comprehensively covers the four most important practices in the area of corporate social responsibility: environment, fair working conditions and human rights, ethics, and sustainable procurement.

For the fourth time in a row, Lenzing has been awarded platinum status by EcoVadis. This puts Lenzing in the top one percent of companies rated by EcoVadis worldwide. Lenzing achieved the greatest progress this year in the categories of sustainable procurement and ethics. Lenzing also outperformed the previous year in the areas of labor and human rights as well as certifications. Since its foundation in 2007, EcoVadis has developed into on of the largest and most trusted providers of sustainability ratings for companies and has created a global network of more than 130,000 rated companies worldwide. The methodological framework evaluates companies' policies, measures and activities, as well as their published reports on the environment, labor and human rights, ethics, and sustainable procurement.

In line with its "Naturally Positive" sustainability strategy, the Lenzing Group has set ambitious targets in each of its core strategic areas to further strengthen its transition from a linear to a circular economy model. Every year, Lenzing provides updates on its sustainability initiatives and the progress made in its annual sustainability report. This level of commitment and transparency was also positively emphasized by EcoVadis in its assessment.

Fashion for Good and its footwear partners adidas, Inditex, ON Running, PVH Corp., Reformation, Target, and Zalando announce a new initiative aimed at accelerating and validating the next generation of footwear innovations. This builds on the organisation’s existing work leveraging their expertise in scouting, validation, innovation and collaboration. This initiative will address the key intervention points needed to drive footwear circularity spanning four work streams across the supply chain from materials to end of use. Industry wide collaboration will be vital to overcome the various roadblocks we face in this space. Therefore, Fashion for Good is launching a call for action, asking all relevant innovators to apply and collaborators to join in the movement.

Around 23.9Bn shoes are produced globally each year, they are often made using over 40 different components from a range of different materials including TPU, EVA, PU and rubber. The industry faces significant challenges due to this high complexity of shoe construction. This combined with a low collection rate, results in a vast majority of discarded footwear ending up in landfills. Fashion for Good sees the need to address this challenge and focus on laying the foundation for footwear circularity as well as accelerating innovation.

Therefore, Fashion for Good will double down their work in this space, building on their existing projects including the Fast Feet Grinded pilot, which tests and validates Fast Feet Grinded's footwear recycling process. Expanding on existing workstreams Fashion for Good will collaborate with our footwear focused partners, including adidas, Inditex, ON Running, PVH Corp., Reformation, Target, and Zalando

To effectively address the challenges in footwear sustainability, Fashion for Good has identified the key intervention points across the shoe lifecycle and structured work into four core workstreams:

1. Materials - Scouting and validating sustainable alternatives for footwear materials including TPU, PU, EVA, leather, and rubber
2. Design - Defining circular design in the footwear space and collectively driving guidelines to build a circular infrastructure
3. End of Use: Sorting, Disassembly, & Recycling - Developing a comprehensive data set on post-consumer footwear waste flows, including (non-)rewearable fractions, volumes, construction and composition. As well as scouting and validating solutions for repair,  end of use, disassembly and recycling of footwear
4. Traceability - Laying the foundation by amalgamating a footwear traceability data protocol to build traceability for evidence to substantiate sustainability claims

CALL FOR INNOVATIONS
Fashion for Good is on the lookout for breakthrough sustainable solutions in the footwear sector that maintain performance and durability. If you have a relevant technology, whether you're an innovator, university, or established company, can apply by 20th September 2024 here.

The Lenzing Group is working with the non-profit organisation RTDS Group and 13 other partners from research and industry to promote the scaling of lyocell filaments as part of the CELLFIL project. Co-funded by the EU with EUR 6.9 million, the project aims to drive the reformation of the textile industry towards greater sustainability and a circular economy.

The Austrian organisation RTDS has launched the CELLFIL project with great vision. In close cooperation with Lenzing Group, which is at the technical helm of the project, CELLFIL aims to reform the textile industry. The centrepiece of the project is the sustainable and robust production of lyocell filaments. By optimising the entire fabric production process and its intermediate processing steps, the aim is to replace synthetic fibers with environmentally friendly lyocell filaments in recyclable end applications. This approach aims to develop and utilise alternative raw material sources for textiles. The realisation of these goals is crucial for scaling up lyocell filament production and promoting a circular economy that represents an environmentally friendly alternative to the currently dominant fossil-based synthetic filaments.

CELLFIL is part of the EU research and innovation program Horizon Europe and is supported by 15 partners from eight different countries. EUR 6.9 million from the European Union's Horizon Europe program has been made available for the implementation of this initiative. The European Commission has presented a visionary roadmap for the future of textiles, aiming for a circular economy in which all textiles on the EU market are durable, repairable and recyclable. This underlines Europe's commitment to sustainable innovation and a greener future in the textile sector.

In a position paper published, the companies organised in the VDMA Textile Machinery Association comment on the ambitious EU regulations and their national implementation for the sustainable and circular transformation of the textile and clothing industry.

The production of textiles requires a large number of resources, such as water, energy and chemicals. “The members of VDMA Textile Machinery support customers with products worldwide to utilise great potential already at the textile production stage to thereby reduce CO2 emissions“, explained Verena Thies, Deputy Chairwoman of VDMA Textile Machinery.

The position statement emphasises the importance of efficient processes, circular economy and binding rules for all market participants. Besides, the position paper summarises the status of textile-to-textile recycling processes as well as the framework conditions for reprocessing of recyclates. The companies of VDMA Textile Machinery develop processes and technologies for recycling and provide the technical prerequisites for the efficient reuse and recycling of textile raw materials, whether natural or man-made fibres.
The Executive Board of VDMA Textile Machinery stresses additionally, that the new EU regulations for circular economy and their national implementation must be designed with realistic targets, measurable effects and as little bureaucracy as possible. Furthermore, market surveillance is needed to ensure a level playing field for all market participants.

On behalf of the industry, the VDMA Textile Machinery Association calls for creating better location conditions in Germany and EU as a favourable environment for innovation und competitiveness for textile machinery manufacturing to significantly advance the sustainability of the textile industry: The Textile Machinery Association strongly emphasises the need for a wide range of low-cost green energy, which is essential for the implementation and sustainable use of recycling solutions in the manufacturing industry. The association also sees the positive shaping of location conditions (the potential for skilled labour, a reduction in bureaucracy, shorter approval periods, investment security and predictability as well as a reduction in the tax burden) as a decisive factor for supporting sustainable business in the highly competitive textile and clothing industry.

Polartec, a Milliken & Company brand and premium creator of innovative and more sustainable textile solutions announced the launch of its newly revamped website. Designed to deliver a seamless and engaging browsing experience for all, the site now caters more effectively to the company’s brand partners and its growing base of direct consumers. It also makes it easier for users to discover the Polartec performance guarantee.

The new website features a fresh new look and feel, along with significant enhancements to improve the user experience. With a strong emphasis on accessibility and user engagement, the revised site ensures that visitors can quickly find the information they need, whenever and wherever they want it. Key features include:

• Modern Design and Structure: The site’s intuitive navigation and streamlined design allow our users to access vital information quickly and easily from any entry point.
• Dynamic Animation: Integrated modern animation enhances engagement and facilitates the interactive and highly enjoyable browsing experience.
• Optimized Content: Overhauled and strategically optimized for SEO, the new content reflects our refreshed positioning while ensuring high visibility in search engine results.

Just as Polartec is dedicated to pushing the boundaries of textile innovation while prioritizing the planet, the new navigation menu reflects this commitment by ensuring fast, easy access to primary sections and important information. And, by highlighting sustainable practices, groundbreaking fabrics and exclusive textile technologies, the new website meets the needs of renowned sportswear apparel companies, top-tier athletes and everyday users alike.

• Fabrics: Explore Polartec’s extensive range of high-performance fabrics.
• Sustainability: Learn about Polartec’s commitment to sustainability and eco-friendly practices.
• Brands: The newly named Products section features our partner brands and their products
• News: Stay up to date with the latest information and company news.
• About Us: Gain insights into Polartec’s company values and mission.