From the Sector

The Swiss group presents three creative inspirations to explore new shapes, colors, materials and define a new offer featuring a variety of solutions and ideas.
A tribute to health and to balance with nature, to the advanced goldsmith craftsmanship and to the effortless sophistication of industrial luxury: the FW 2022-23 collection by Riri Group is a true kaleidoscope of shapes, colors and materials, where three different creative inspirations meet – Biophilic, Stones&Gold and Industrial Luxe – for a high-end line of accessories.

All three paths are the result of state-of-the-art techniques, of an R&D effort and of the renowned expertise of the Swiss group. Part of the offer is also a selection of pieces by Cobrax Metal Hub, among which stand out buckles and locks with peculiar shapes and finishing.

Looking to the new season with a positive and enthusiastic attitude, the Group continues to work towards an increasing sustainability when it comes to products and processes. The collection, in fact, is a further step toward Riri’s path of green responsibility that the company has taken to bring actual improvement in its sustainable performance. This year, Riri Group published its first Sustainability Report, calculated in compliance with Global Reporting Initiative Standard (GRI), and adopted recycled polyester as production standard for zips’ tapes.

Biophilic
A way to honor love for life, this line emphasizes the importance of physical and mental wellbeing, answering the questions raised during the challenges faced in the last year. Balance with nature becomes a concrete product circularity operation resorting to manufacturing processes with a low environmental impact and to organic and biodegradable materials. Among them stands out recycled polyester for zips which is Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certified, Global Organic Textile Standard certified organic cotton and other alternative fibers, such as nettle, a natural resource that is a great alternative to synthetic fibers. Rivets, zips, buttons and metal components are made of stainless steel, which guarantees durability and resistance, 100% recycled copper and aluminum – light, ductile and resistant to oxidation. Among the most interesting solutions are rice peel powder – used on buttons’ overseals – and eco-sustainable thermoplastic polyurethane, obtained from renewable raw sources.

Stones & Gold
Sophistication and advanced craftsmanship mark the pieces of this creative path which, inspired by goldsmith and glyptic craft tradition, reveals a delicate sense of positivity and richness. Gems, lapis lazuli, marble, and mother-of-pearl are protagonists of a refined selection of accessories designed to amaze and catch the eye, resembling actual jewels. Essential the use of gold, especially in its liquid form: dominating zips and buttons’ finishes, this precious and versatile metal becomes a decorative feature on printed tape.

Industrial luxe
The third proposal embodies the unique style and timeless elegance that have always defined Riri’s products, embellishing them with new engineering details which makes them very relevant. The accessories come with golden and black finishes, both glossy and matt, and explore shapes developed to bring life to a range of luxury accessories with a sophisticated industrial aesthetics. A dominating role goes to stainless steel, along with a selection of impactful and elegant tapes which includes jacquard options, for a retro-futuristic look that is revealed also through the use of mechanical elements, such as screws and etched metal sheets, and in the clean and boxy shapes of pullers and buttons.

Iluna Group comes back to Milano Unica with a great and important goal: to relaunch the qualities and dimensions of sustainability by going beyond the ingredient.

Iluna’s new path, which was born in a moment when the market seems to speak about “fragility”, begins with the investment in the renewal of machines, which allow it to fly ever higher in terms of high-tech developments, quality, definition, effects of yarns and patterns. The journey into the new dimension of responsible quality continues with ad hoc developments in the field of GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified recycled yarns, aimed at unprecedented effects both in look, in performance and in the hands of fabrics. Including cord yarn, shiny threads and an expansion of the range of GRS yarns, previously available only opaque. The cord yarn is a precious yarn with a ROICA™ EF premium stretch yarn core, GRS certified and developed with 50% of pre-consumer waste materials content - double, covered with an equally recycled shiny thread; the bright and translucent is instead to add brilliant effects so far not possible with a GRS yarn.

The printing processes are also born from this constant search for innovation towards new materials and new techniques, becoming more and more sustainable: Global Recycle Standard (GRS)-certified sublimation printing and register printing carrying Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certification. This one overlap exactly on the design and color the details, reaching where the dye cannot reach.

Diversification has become essential in today’s competitive market and the fragility of the moments experienced in 2020 was the stimulus to return to being here again, to return to action. Flexibility is the watchword today, along with research. And Iluna has managed to go further: starting from the ingredients at the base of the materials, last year launched a collection with natural dyes made with GOTS certified plant-based dyes, up to proposing magnificent prints with extraordinary effects for this edition of the Milanese fair.

The three dimensions of sustainability, design and innovation are thus finally linked thanks to valuable partnerships with expert and excellent reference companies that have allowed these new developments and these unique results thanks to advanced technologies designed specifically for Iluna, which is today the only company to offer ingredients, natural colors and prints, all three strictly certified.

• Was macht Modemarken und Textilhersteller vertrauenswürdig?
• Nachfragen von Geschäftskunden nach aufgedecktem Biobaumwoll-Betrug

Bei eigenen Ermittlungen deckte der Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) im Herbst diesen Jahres in Indien einen Betrug auf: gefälschte Zertifikate für 20.000 Tonnen Biobaumwolle. Dabei wurden keine GOTSeigenen Zertifikate gefälscht, sondern Bio-Zertifikate für die Rohfaser, die GOTS als Nachweis akzeptiert. Seit Bekanntwerden dieses Betrugs erreichen Nachfragen von Geschäftskunden den Biotextil-Hersteller Cotonea. Dieser setzt zwar in der Regel auf den IVN Best, den Standard mit den höchsten Ansprüchen weltweit, nutzt aber auch GOTS für seine Produkte. Geschäftsführer Roland Stelzer arbeitet seit 25 Jahren beim Traditionsunternehmen und Cotonea- Hersteller Elmer & Zweifel an der Entwicklung nachhaltiger Textilien: „Was der Global Organic Textile Standard leistet, ist grundsätzlich beachtlich und maßgeblich“, befindet er. „Die Richtlinien und Kriterien, die er zur Vergabe seines Siegels definiert, gehören zu den sinnvollsten und besonders richtungsweisenden.

Beispielsweise gibt der GOTS wie der IVN Best eine doppelte Sicherheit dadurch, dass es eine Positivliste gibt, nach der Chemikalien freigegeben werden müssen, und zusätzlich Rückstandskontrollen und Grenzwerte festgelegt sind. Dennoch: Wer seine Produktionskette nicht genau kennt, ist vor einem Betrug nie hundertprozentig sicher“, erklärt Stelzer weiter.

Die steigende Nachfrage nach biologisch erzeugten Textilien mache betrügerische Aktivitäten Stelzers Einschätzung nach attraktiver. Umso mehr, wenn der Betrug am Anfang einer langen Kette geschieht und so schwieriger nachvollziehbar ist. Darum sei es umso wichtiger, sowohl die eigene Produktionskette als auch Schwachstellen genau zu kennen und zusätzlich zu vorhandenen Siegeln selbst zu prüfen. Cotonea nicht betroffen: Biobaumwolle nur aus eigenen Anbau-Projekten In Kirgistan und Uganda hat Cotonea ökologische Anbau-Projekte selbst mit aufgebaut und bezieht von dort die Biobaumwolle für die weiteren Produktionsschritte. Cotonea ist dementsprechend nicht betroffen von dem jüngst in Indien aufgedeckten Betrug. Das Unternehmen arbeitet zudem mit allen weiterverarbeitenden Betrieben entlang der Herstellungskette auf persönlicher Ebene: von der Entkörnung und Fasererzeugung über die Garn- Spinnerei, die Garn-Veredlung, die Flächenbildung, dem Weben und Stricken, der Veredlung der Flächen bis hin zur Konfektionierung. Darauf verlässt sich Cotonea aber nicht allein. Eigene Stichproben und Transparenz „Stichproben unserer Ware schicken wir selbst ins Labor und prüfen, ob standardgemäß, also entsprechend der Richtlinien, nach denen das angestrebte Siegel vergeben wird, gearbeitet wurde,“ sagt Susanne Günter, die bei Cotonea verantwortlich ist für Qualitätssicherung und Zertifizierung. „Das tun wir vor allem dann, wenn es kritisch sein könnte – auch, wenn das heißt, dass wir eine Charge nicht nutzen können.“

„Wir setzen auf Transparenz bis ins Detail“, ergänzt Roland Stelzer. „Bei unserer Kommunikation geht es nicht allgemein um Nachhaltigkeit, sondern konkret um die vielen wichtigen Teilaspekte wie Biolandbau, Freiheit von gentechnisch veränderten Organismen, regenerative Energie, Langlebigkeit der Produkte durch hohe Qualität – die Liste lässt sich lange fortsetzen. Und wir waren weltweit die erste Textilkette, die auch komplett fair zertifiziert war.“

Für Verbraucherinnen und Verbraucher macht ein Produktpass an jedem Cotonea-Produkt den gesamten Herstellungsprozess samt aller Zulieferer und beteiligten Betriebe sichtbar. Ein Nachhaltigkeitsbericht auf der Website gibt weitere Einblicke in die Produktionskette. Stelzer rät Konsumenten, Einkäufern und Labels, nicht nur auf Siegel zu achten, sondern auch sonst genau hinzuschauen. Eine Möglichkeit sei, den  direkten Lieferanten oder das Modelabel wiederum nach dessen Lieferanten zu fragen. Die Art, wie offen, transparent, engagiert und nachvollziehbar ein Unternehmen arbeitet und Auskunft geben kann, sage mehr aus als Werbephrasen.

Artisan craft, experience and high eco-technological specialization: the great tradition of fabrics for shirts which styles the future.

Search for quality, the ability to interpret elegance and a product inspired by tradition, though always trendy: these are the distinctive traits which define the vocation of Canclini 1925, a point of reference worldwide for shirt fabric manufacturing. This expertise is implemented through dynamic creativity and 100% Made in Italy artisan  craft. These are the foundations which make the history and capability of Canclini 1925 unique, as standard bearer for everlasting style.

All this results from an authentic family tradition which, for three generations, has been the driving force of the company, shaping each collection. This passion is at the service of tireless search in terms of style and technology which underlies the whole Canclini 1925 innovative approach. The goal is to offer, through its fabrics, an inimitable experience, “creating wellbeing” and emotion through touch alone, respecting the environment and humans.

Founded in 1925, Canclini has always been a company able to combine extraordinary creativity and product care, established as a silk factory in the Como region. This tradition was renewed in the 1960s with the shift to the cotton sector, aiming more and more at customer service, developing a partnership and trust relation. Working with Canclini 1925 means reaching into the tradition of a family which has always been passionate about its work, dynamic, creative and focused on continuous innovation.

These are distinctive and qualifying elements in the Canclini 1925 approach. An approach which, in line with the research and development pathway on which the company has always invested substantial resources, also involves considerable attention the topic of environmental and social accountability. This commitment is confirmed by numerous and prestigious certifications in the company portfolio, starting from the careful selection of raw materials to its social commitment. More specifically, Canclini 1925 has been awarded the GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard), SUPIMA COTTON (the Pima “Gossypium Barbadense” cotton, classified as Extra-long Staple) certifications, following the Standard 100 by OECO-TEX®, BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) and GRS (Global Recycle Standard). A comprehensive range of tools which, combined with its in-house know-how and expertise capital, enhances the portfolio of Canclini 1925 branded innovations.

This accountability approach also encompasses the social area with the association “Un sorriso in più” (“One extra smile”). Founded and managed by the company, it is a non-profit organisation engaged in projects which include assistance in nursing homes to elderly persons without family ties, as well as in the support to children living difficult and disadvantaged family situations, focusing its activity on “human life quality”. The uniqueness generated by this meeting between tradition and innovation is the driving force behind corporate research, as well as the truly distinctive reason for its style and technology development. The high-performance looms and technologies used make the company strong and flexible enough for contemporary market requirements. The trademark passion of the Canclini family completes the picture within which the company operates, true to an approach which is at the same time artisan and high-tech, a point of reference in Italy and worldwide.

Thanks to its substantial manufacturing capacity, Canclini today is present on all of the most influential shirt markets worldwide, and – with its new Blue 1925 line - also in the denim world. In this way the company has succeeded in positioning itself among major players in textile manufacturing, authentically Italian because of its farsighted  business vision, care for details and production flexibility. It is the approach which – over the years - has allowed the group to take over important enterprises in the sector, for example Hausmann-Moos and Profilo Tessile, Maglificio Mida and Grandi & Rubinelli.
According to Simone Canclini, CEO of Canclini 1925: “What characterises the Canclini 1925 spirit is first and foremost genuine passion driven by our inspiring principles: quality, style and service. These elements have allowed us to become and remain a point of reference worldwide, to rediscover the everyday – basic and exciting – emotion of choosing a special shirt”.

Candiani launches at Kingpins its new eco-smart denim range in partnership with ROICA™ from Asahi Kasei.

Both companies can claim their separate leading roles in textile innovation. Candiani, ‘the Greenest Mill in The Blue World’, is always at the cutting edge of new developments, and ROICA™ with its various premium stretch functions. Now they join forces through a unique synergy and an exclusive, custom made premium stretch sustainable ROICA™ yarn developed by Asahi Kasei especially for Candiani.

ReLAST is a range of market fresh responsible denim products, designed by Candiani that tick every smart box: from new ways in colouration, to better, more sustainable raw materials, new finishing and fade-tech that minimises water waste, and now with a key responsible stretch ingredient in a specially produced GRS certified ROICA™ yarn that perfectly completes this range making better, more sustainable, sharp fashions for customers looking to live and wear better with better values.

New Colouration values in the K-Seal range come from indigo applied with a water saving Indigo Juice® system. Or in the KN-Cotton range from cotton scraps recycled and dyed with Archroma earth colours. Both are sized with the Kitotex® Vegetal size derived from plants and natural renewables.
KN-Blue and Regen ranges use Sulfur dye and conventional Indigo dye using N-Denim tech and water saving Indigo Juice® respectively. The Regen range also uses Tencel and Refbra materials from Lenzing to add softness and a luxe touch to denims of the future.

All ranges in the ReLAST collection deploy the customized ROICA™ advanced sustainable stretch yarns.

With the ReLAST collection from Candiani and ROICA™ from Asahi Kasei rewrite the rules for responsible denim stretch manufacture, designing fashion forward denims that are now guaranteed completely 100% sustainable.

The evidence for excellence is underpinned by a qualified list of certifications that include GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) and GRS(Global Recycled Standard), Recycled Cotton Certification as well as registered affiliated processing methods for saving water (Kitotex® and Indigo Juice®). Branded raw materials with confirmed responsible status include Tencel and Refibra from Lenzing, Q-Nova recycled polyamide and of course the newly developed ROICA™ advanced fit, premium stretch yarn with full GRS certification.

Dedication to reaching the same goal pays off with the ReLast collection, a collaborative partnership with Candiani and ROICA™.

FILPUCCI GROUP proceeds along the path of commitment towards an ever more responsible innovation. The group takes part in the 83rd edition of Pitti Filati (June 27-29, 2018) with unique products, high-end knitwear and creative yarns, all resulting from the authentic Smart Innovation the company has been long committed to.
 
Research, style and fashion are key words for the world-renown Tuscan company, which unveils an always more responsible approach both at a corporate level and in terms of offer.
Here are some key elements to prove Filpucci’s relentless commitment:

• The GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) and OCS (Organic Content Standard) certifications obtained by the Filpucci dyeing plant add to the Clear to Wear (CTW) standard developed by Inditex Group and achieved in 2014 and to the Detox commitment, which was signed in February, 2016.
• Not only the best raw materials, but also an established knowhow in the fields of dyeing and finishing, always under the key concept of Responsible Innovation. This concept extends to each and every FILPUCCI collection and their ever-increasing offer, the roughly twenty innovative new items, the Woolen line of carded yarns and the real spearhead of premium fashion, the Collection. Among this season’s new offer: Baby Camel Re.Verso™, RWS- certified merino organic wool, Re.Verso™ cashmere, organic silks and FSC-certified viscose.
• The achievement of further certifications such as the FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) for viscose shows the care and respect towards the ecosystem as a whole, guaranteeing a product derived from a forest or a plantation forest in the respect of strict environmental, social and economic standards. The RWS (Responsible Wool Standard) finally guarantees the use of wool coming from livestock managed under rigorous criteria oriented towards the wellbeing of animals and the reduction of environmental impact.
• Filpucci Group is all about a constant vocation towards new generation values and a reliable, traceable and transparent manufacturing process, as shown by the Re.Verso™ circular economy supply chain, of which the group is a unique ambassador in the field of high-end/low-impact knitwear yarns.

With absolute quality always in mind, FILPUCCI GROUP represents a corporate model that has made of sustainability a real mission, embarking on complex paths that have brought great results with fashionable textile solutions lead by ethnical and sustainable values. Thanks to this, Filpucci’s products have become part of Patagonia Collections, an important acknowledging from the brand’s part, whose managers stated: “We are always on the hunt for the highest performing, lowest impact materials. We were thrilled to find Re.Verso ™ (95/5 transformed) Cashmere yarn from Filpucci. It allowed us to create a range of products with the insulative and soft properties of cashmere while adhering to our mission statement; build the best product, cause no unnecessary harm.”
FILPUCCI GROUP’s commitment is evident and it moves forward thanks to the passion towards responsible and innovative paths that contribute to turning the group into a reliable partner, symbol of quality and excellence.

Filpucci is also a C.L.A.S.S. (Creativity Lifestyle And Sustainable Synergy) partner.