From the Sector

Graniteville Specialty Fabrics has set new standards by challenging the traditional pad finishing process. With Baldwin Technology’s spray finishing technology, Graniteville Specialty Fabrics has been able to increase production efficiency, and minimize chemical and water waste.
 
Based in Graniteville, South Carolina, Graniteville Specialty Fabrics produces coatings and coated fabrics that are resistant to water, fire, UV and weather for the military, marine and tent markets. The installation of Baldwin’s TexCoat™ G4 is part of a facility upgrade to maximize production efficiency and capacity in the durable water-repellent finishing and coating line to meet growing customer demand for advanced engineered products.

With sustainability benefits, tracking and process control, and Industry 4.0 integration, the TexCoat™ G4 provides high-quality fabric finishing, with no chemistry waste, as well as minimal water and energy consumption. This system utilizes non-contact precision-spray technology, ensuring precise finishing coverage with the exact amount of chemistry. Changeovers (pad bath emptying, cleaning and refilling) are reduced, resulting in substantial chemical conservation and increased productivity.

In recent years, Italian circular knitting machine manufacturer Santoni (part of the Lonati Group) and Groz-Beckert have worked together to develop a new self-cleaning knitting system for the INNOTAS circular knitting machine. The knitting system is also called INNOTAS and consists of the circular knitting machine needle SAN™ DUO and the corresponding sinker SNK DUO-OL.

Following various preliminary investigations, the go-ahead was finally given in January 2015 for the joint development of a self-cleaning system in the needle area with side-by-side needles and a low shank.

The circular knitting machine needle SAN™ DUO with the sinker SNK DUO-OL was developed to meet the desired requirements. In the knitting system, there are two needles in the needle channel and two sinkers in one sinker channel. The benefits became apparent in initial field trials with experienced end customers in 2016. In the following years, the knitting system was continuously analyzed and further optimized.

The double filling in the needle channel significantly reduces soiling. In addition, the further developed shape of the knitting system ensures that any yarn lint is automatically removed from the machine during the knitting process. This extends the cleaning interval, making work more time-efficient and increasing productivity.

Both the needle SANTM DUO and the sinker SNK DUO-OL are characterized by a particularly low shaft with a predetermined breaking notch. The low shank minimizes soiling, while the predetermined breaking groove enables controlled needle breakage in the event of wear at the desired point. This reduces errors in the knitting process and machine downtimes.

At the upcoming SaigonTex, taking place from April 10th to 13th in Ho Chi Minh City, the KARL MAYER GROUP will present its innovations.

DThe KARL MAYER exhibition for warp preparation is entirely dedicated to sustainability. With BLUEDYE, an innovative machine is introduced, which ensures more sustainability and lower costs in the process of indigo dyeing. Thanks to innovative technological solutions, the amounts of water and chemicals used are significantly reduced. Additionally, less yarn waste is generated. Another innovation for more sustainability is CASCADE, a steam and condensation system that requires significantly less steam in the drying process of sizing and indigo dyeing plants by using a solution for energy recycling that is protected against imitation.

For the warp knitting sector, the group of companies presents its latest technological developments. Highlights include a digital solution from KM.ON for optimizing production management (DPM), innovations for enhancing performance in the HKS segment, and a double raschel machine that enables unique creative multi-color designs in spacer textiles with more colour and new Jacquard techniques.

"Vietnam is a growing market for textile production, which is gaining importance especially for major international sports brands," says Eddy Ho, Senior Sales Manager at KARL MAYER.
The sales professional expects a large number of visitors, especially from Vietnam, China, Taiwan, and South Korea. SaigonTex is one of the most important textile machinery exhibitions in East Asia, located in close proximity to production centres. Vietnam is, in turn, the second most important market for the KARL MAYER GROUP after China. It benefits from increasing foreign direct investments in textile production from China, Taiwan, and South Korea.

Members of TMAS – the Swedish textile machinery association – will display technologies in alignment with the theme of digitalisation at the forthcoming Techtextil and Texprocess 2024 exhibitions, taking place in Frankfurt from April 23-26th.

Automatic handling
The fully automated and digitised handling solutions for finished garments, home textiles and furniture of Eton Systems, for example, will be demonstrated at Texprocess.

Designed to increase value-added time in production by eliminating manual transportation and minimising handling, the individually addressable product carriers are fully managed and controlled by the latest ETONingenious™ software. This web based real-time data collection and information system continuously accumulates, processes and makes all production information instantly available to supervisors, quality control personnel and management.

Bespoke seams
Svegea will demonstrate its EC 300-XS colarette technology, which is used by garment manufacturers around the world for the production of tubular apparel components such as cuff and neck tapes and other seam reinforcements.

The EC 300-XS collarette cutter on show in Frankfurt is equipped with the latest E-Drive II system providing the operator with a very user-friendly touchscreen, providing full control of the cutting process. An accompanying FA 350 fully automatic roll slitting machine will also be demonstrated.

Digital finishing
At Techtextil meanwhile, Baldwin Technology Co. will provide full details of how its highly digitised TexCoat G4 non-contact spray technology for textile finishing and remoistening not only reduces water, chemicals and energy consumption, but also provides the flexibility to adapt to customer requirements in terms of single and double-sided finishing applications.

TexCoat G4 can reduce water consumption and chemical usage by as much as 50% compared to traditional padding application processes.

Yarn tension
Celebrating its 60th anniversary this year, Eltex will display the latest Eltex EyETM system for the continuous monitoring of yarn tension on warp beams.

The Eltex EyETM eliminates problems when warping, and also in subsequent weaving or tufting processes, monitoring the yarn tension on all positions in real-time and enabling a minimum and maximum allowable tension value it be set. If any yarn’s tension falls outside these values the operator can be warned or the machine stopped.

The Eltex ACT and ACT-R units meanwhile go beyond yarn tension monitoring to actually control yarn tension. This extends the application range greatly. The plug and play system automatically compensates for any differences in yarn tension that arise, for example from irregularities in yarn packages.

Accumulated know-how
Vandewiele Sweden AB benefits from all of the synergies and accumulated know-how of Vandewiele Group, supplying weft yarn feeding and tension control units for weaving looms to the majority of weaving machine manufacturers. It also retrofits its latest technologies to working mills to enable instant benefits in terms of productivity and control.

The company will present its latest X4 yarn feeders with integrated accessory displays (TED) as a new standard, as well as launching its own e-commerce platform – iroonline.com.

The TED function enables weft tension settings to be transferred from one machine to another, enabling a fast start-up the next time the same article is woven. The position of the S-Flex Tensioner is constantly monitored by an internal sensor – even if adjustment is made during power off.

X4 feeders are also available with integrated active tension control (ATC-W) as an option. With the ATC-W active tension control, the required tension is easily set and monitored on the integrated display. Once set, the system constantly regulates itself, ensuring consistent yarn tension during the weaving process which is constantly and accurately measured by the ATC sensor unit, sending a signal to the ATC operator unit resulting in consistently stable yarn tension at the required level.

Kelheim Fibres is showcasing recent research findings at this year's Cellulose Fibres Conference (13rd-14th of March). The development, led by Dr. Ingo Bernt, Project Leader of Fibre & Application Development at Kelheim Fibres, and Dr. Thomas Harter from Graz University of Technology, provides insights into the correlation between the geometry of viscose fibres and the liquid absorption of tampons.

Kelheim Fibres has long been engaged in the functionalization of viscose fibres, including the specific adaptation of fibre cross-sections. The trilobal Galaxy® serves as an example. The current study underscores the properties of the fibre, primarily rooted in its geometry. This involves taking a closer look at the underlying mechanisms. It has been confirmed that, in contrast to the traditionally round viscose fibres and despite similar chemical compositions and mechanical properties, Galaxy® enables significantly better liquid absorption.

While the higher specific surface area of trilobal fibres already promotes improved liquid absorption, this is not the main factor accounting for the difference in absorption. Instead, the geometric shape of the fibres proves to be crucial. Trilobal fibres create and maintain a more voluminous, extensive network within the absorbent body, providing a larger volume for liquid absorption.

Dr. Ingo Bernt emphasizes, "The results of our study are not limited to tampons—any application requiring increased absorbency can benefit from the properties of our Galaxy® fibres."

The lecture "Geometry Matters: Unveiling Tampon Absorption Mechanisms" by Dr. Ingo Bernt und Dr. Thomas Harter takes place on the 14th of March at 2:50pm.

Messe Frankfurt will extend its footprint in the Central Asian market by establishing seven brand events in Tashkent, Uzbekistan. The country’s strategic location as a crossroads of Europe and Asia positions it as a promising trade gateway and transportation hub, facilitating the economic development of neighbouring countries and access to the wider region. The company’s stronger presence in the market will promote business opportunities and foster the sustainable development of pillar industries, including cosmetics, textiles and clothing, automotive, logistics and transportation.

Uzbekistan has a promising consumer market with significant potential. It is the largest in Central Asia and is expected to increase due to population growth, rising incomes and the modernisation of economic and industry sectors.
 
The nation has actively sought to diversify its economy in recent years, undertaking reforms for greater entrepreneurial freedom and opening up to more international and regional cooperation. The country already exports precious metals, textiles and agricultural produce. It imports machinery, equipment, means of transportation, and vehicle components from foreign trading partners. Attracting overseas investment is also apparent through incentives such as tax benefits, reduced import duties and simplified procedures for overseas investors.
 
In addition, shifting global supply chains and trading patterns could also drive opportunities in the region. The nation benefits from its geographical location owing to its position between Asia and Europe, to which the Uzbek Government recognises the prospects of investing in infrastructure, such as transportation and logistics, to create an efficient transit hub. Against this backdrop, China acknowledges the importance of developing routes along the Belt and Road while Europe has expressed a readiness to support Uzbekistan’s efforts to diversify transport corridors.

Line-up of shows include:

• Automechanika Tashkent; Futuroad Expo Tashkent; and, Scalex Tashkent: 23 – 25 October 2024
• Heimtextil Uzbekistan; Texworld Tashkent; and, Apparel Sourcing Tashkent: 6 – 8 November 2024
• Beautyworld Central Asia: 21 – 23 November 2024

Lenzing Group announced the collaboration with China’s internationally recognized denim mill, Advance Denim, to use matte TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers for their latest Denim Collection.

The TENCEL™ brand offers innovative and planet-friendly fiber solutions¹ that strive to enhance the adoption of responsible production² within the textile industry. Leveraging resource-saving, closed-loop production process³, TENCEL™ fibers are naturally soft and smooth to the touch and support a natural dry feeling through moisture control. The rollout of matte TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers in 2021 provided denim manufacturers with a solution that enabled them to enjoy the ample tactile and environmental benefits of TENCEL™ fibers, while also maintaining a matte finish on the end product.

“Matte TENCEL™ fibers are an extremely important innovation for the denim sector as they address the need for responsible denim made with less shine for a more vintage look. Many brands are currently looking for styles that meet this criterion while also providing softness and drapability for wide-leg jeans. Matte TENCEL™ fibers create the perfect mixture of performance and sustainability without sacrificing that true vintage indigo look,” said Amy Wang, General Manager of Advance Denim. “The matte denim in the ‘Denim Collection’, achieved by using matte TENCEL™ fibers, not only has exceptional softness to the touch, but its fiber properties also make the denim more like traditional cotton jeans after washing. This will enable the final garments to retain the intended retro style of the fabric.”

¹ TENCEL™ Lyocell and Modal fibers are certified with the EU Ecolabel for textile products (license no. AT/016/001) for environmental excellence.
² The responsible production of TENCEL™ Lyocell and Modal fibers uses at least 50% less water and emits at least 50% less CO2 compared to generic lyocell and modal fibers, according to Higg MSI, thereby saving precious resources for future generations. Results based on LCA standards (ISO 14040/44) and available via Higg MSI (Version 3.7).
³ Savings consider solvent recovery.

Devan will showcase the newest additions to their R-Vital NTL Range and Thermic High Cooling technology.

R-Vital® NTL enables textile manufacturers to boost their textiles with a range of active, natural ingredients that have a positive effect on the body and mind. Elements such as Chamomile oil and Arnica Montana are absorbed by the skin and have relaxing, moisturizing or hydrating effects. The biobased content of the R-Vital well-being technology is +97%, readily biodegradable (OECD 301B).

R-Vital® NTL Regenight™: Devan and Lucas Meyer Cosmetics join forces to launch a ground-breaking technology, R-Vital NTL Regenight™, a technology which improves sleep quality and also improves nighttime skin recovery. Using an upcycled oil soluble fraction obtained from Australian Tea tree oil distillation process, Regenight™ acts through both inhalation to improve nighttime rest and through topical action to provide skin recovery.

Tested in real-life context using proven biometric technology, the dual action provided individually by Regenight™ proposes a breakthrough approach to reduce the impact of poor-quality sleep on the skin.

R-Vital® NTL Chamomile oil: Chamomile oil is known for its moisturizing and soothing properties. Additionally, this oil is believed to have antioxidant and inflammatory properties. Furthermore, chamomile oil is renowned for its calming effects and potential to reduce stress and anxiety, helping improve sleep quality.

R-Vital® NTL Warming: Engineered to deliver a gentle warmth, the R-Vital NTL Warming technology ensures a cozy and comfortable sleeping experience. This blend is a solution that infuses a sense of warmth, promoting physical and emotional well-being.

R-Vital NTL Arnica Montana: Harnessing the natural benefits of Arnica Montana, this ingredient, is celebrated for its potent healing and recovering properties.

At Heimtextil Devan will also present a new high cooling technology that provides an optimal and refreshing sleeping climate, ensuring a cool and restful night's sleep. Thermic High Cooling is based on reactive microencapsulated Phase Change Materials (PCMs). The smart heat exchange mechanism keeps the body within its comfort zone. This makes the body suffer less from night sweats, and results in a longer, healthier and more comfortable sleep with fewer awakenings. This new formulation with high cooling level and high solid content, presents around 30% more cooling than standard PCM formulations. One padding allows to achieve high cooling level (no need to run multiple applications). A Bio-based version is also available - Thermic® Bio, where the PCMs are derived from sustainable, natural sources.

Panda Biotech announced that building construction is complete and the official commissioning process to bring its Panda High Plains Hemp Gin™ (the “Panda Hemp Gin”) project online began in early Q4. The commissioning process marks the final stage before beginning commercial operations in Q1 2024 at the 500,000 square foot Wichita Falls, Texas facility. The Panda Hemp Gin will process 10 metric tons of industrial hemp per hour to produce textile-grade fiber, hurd, short-fiber hurd mix, and a nutrient-rich co-product that will be pelletized. The facility is expected to be the largest hemp decortication center in the Western Hemisphere and among the largest in the world.

Using only renewable energy sources, the engineering and production process at the Panda Hemp Gin has been certified green by Mid-South Engineering Company, in accordance with the International Capital Market Association’s Green Bond Principles. Panda Biotech has also partnered with Oritain, a scientific traceability company, to bring the most traceable hemp grown 100 percent in the United States to market.

Additionally, Panda Biotech is actively signing contracts with producers to grow the hemp feedstock for the 2024 growing season, as well as purchasing hemp fiber that has already been harvested or processed. The company recently unveiled an unmatched pay-to-grow program for producers to begin growing Panda hemp. With up-front, guaranteed money and agronomy support, Panda producers also receive tested and proven seed at no cost, successfully mitigating the risk producers may assume and underscoring Panda’s commitment and promise to the farming community. The benefits of growing hemp are substantial, as it is an excellent rotational crop that remediates the soil and provides a competitive margin.

“Each piece of the Panda Hemp Gin production line, including the three miles of overhead pneumatic duct lines, refining, blending, mechanical cottonization, hurd bagging and storage, baling, and more, must be individually started, checked, balanced, and commissioned,” says Panda Biotech Executive Vice President Scott Evans. “Currently, all equipment is individually being brought online to be officially placed in service.”

The kick-off meeting for the "Trends and Design Factors for Hydrogen Pressure Vessels" project, recently held at AZL Aachen GmbH, was a successful event, bringing together more than 37 experts in the field of composite technologies. This event laid a solid foundation for the Joint Partner Project, which currently comprises a consortium of 20 renowned companies from across the composite pressure vessel value chain: Ascend Performance Materials, C evotec GmbH, Chongqing Polycomp International Corp. (CPIC), Conbility GmbH, Elkamet Kunststofftechnik GmbH, F.A. Kümpers GmbH & Co. KG, f loteks plastik sanayi ticaret a.s., Formosa Plastics Corporation, Heraeus Noblelight GmbH, Huntsman Advanced Materials, Kaneka Belgium NV, Laserline GmbH, Mitsui Chemicals Europe GmbH, Plastik Omnium, Rassini Europe GmbH, Robert Bosch GmbH, Swancor Holding Co. Ltd. Ltd., TECNALIA, Toyota Motor Europe NV/SA, Tünkers do Brasil Ltda.

The project follows AZL´s well proven approach of a Joint Partner Project, aiming to provide technology and market insights as well as benchmarking of different material and production setups in combination with connecting experts along the value chain.

The kick-off meeting not only served as a platform to foster new contacts and get informed about the expertise and interests of the consortium members in the field of hydrogen pressure vessels, but also laid the groundwork for steering the focus of the upc oming project's ambitious phases. As a basis for the interactive discussion session, AZL outlined the background, motivation and detailed work plan. The central issues of the dialogue were the primary objectives, the most pressing challenges, the contribut ion to competitiveness, and
the priorities that would best meet the expectations of the project partners.

Discussions covered regulatory issues, the evolving value chain and the supply and properties of key materials such as carbon and glass fibres and resins. The consortium defined investigations into different manufacturing technologies, assessing their matu rity and potential benefits. Design layouts, including liners, boss designs and winding patterns, were thoroughly considered, taking into account their implications for mobile and stationary storage. The group is also interested in cost effective testing m ethods and certification processes, as well as the prospects for recycling into continuous fibres and the use of sustainable materials. Insight was requested into future demand for hydrogen tanks, OEM needs and strategies, and technological developments to produce more economical tanks.

The meeting highlighted the importance of CAE designs for fibre patterns, software suitability and the application dependent use of thermoset and thermoplastic designs.

The first report meeting will also set the stage of the next project phase, which will be the creation of reference designs by AZL's engineering team. These designs will cover a range of pressure vessel configurations using a variety of materials and production concepts. The aim is to develop models that not only re flect current technological capabilities, but also provide deep insight into the cost analysis of different production technologies, their CO₂ footprint, recycling aspects and scalability.

AZL's project remains open to additional participants. Companies interested in joining this initiative are invited to contact Philipp Fröhlig.