From the Sector

From 18 to 20 January 2025 in Hofheim-Wallau near Frankfurt, this international trade fair will be presenting sustainable fashion collections, footwear and accessories for all generations and all occasions.

Labels invest in their presence at the fair
For the first time, organiser MUVEO GmbH has positioned DESIGN DISCOVERIES in the foyer of the Messecenter Rhein-Main, instead of on the first floor as previously. The new location for the first-time exhibitors featured in DESIGN DISCOVERIES, immediately inside the main entrance, ensures that the labels covered by this support programme are immediately visible. The four brands, selected by a jury, include Maison Labiche from France, embroiderers of womens-, mens- and kidswear. Ikiala brings accessories made of Madagascan raffia. Kiwistories supplies fashion items with prints and patterns, while Delin uses linen for its shirts, T-shirts, clothing etc.

The area previously occupied by DESIGN DISCOVERIES has now been used to provide larger spaces for exhibitors. “We have noted that for some years now the stands have been growing ever larger,” comments Jens Frey, Managing Director of MUVEO GmbH. “The increasing willingness to make this type of investment is something we see as a positive signal from the sector, especially in the face of continuing commercial challenges. The labels are saying something with their generously designed areas – it’s well worth a visit!”

Insider expertise for conventional retail too
Events of various kinds will take place in the Talk Area on the first floor: one highlight of the programme is the Retail Association’s expert panel on the Monday, aimed primarily at buyers. Under the title ‘Best practices in retail: ’Tackling challenges with active customer engagement and other strategies’, a panel comprising Dr. Eva Stüber of the Institute for Retail Studies Cologne (IFH), Jost Wiebelhaus of Frankfurter Laufshop, Olivia Dahlmen of Quartier Frau, Marion Käfer of Lumiis and Silvio Zeizinger of the Hessen Retail Association (Handelsverband Hessen e.V.) will be speaking on trends and solutions for retail. Cheryll Mühlen, Editor-in-chief at specialist magazines Textilmitteilungen, J'N'C and Green Knowledge, is the moderator.

„Community-building will be even more important in the future“
The motto of the 55th INNATEX, ‘TOGETHER’, is a call to those involved in the Green Fashion sector to stick together, in order to find synergies and maintain confidence. “Smaller businesses in particular can benefit in very concrete ways from collaboration,” says Hitzel. “The opportunities range from sharing resources and knowledge to extending reach and saving costs. I also believe that community-building will become even more important in the coming years.”

The return of Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris to the Paris-Le-Bourget exhibition centre from 10 to 12 February will see a number of innovations both in terms of the products on offer and the visitor itineraries.

More than 1,200 weavers and garment makers are expected in Halls 2, 3 and 4 of the exhibition centre for this first edition in 2025. This return to a redesigned space marks a new chapter in the visitor experience. This session will also offer a true reflection of the diversity of global sourcing, with creative ranges at competitive prices for the fashion industries.

New sourcing destinations for Texworld
Alongside the Top 5 weaving nations loyal to Texworld - China, Türkiye with its 70 manufacturers grouped together under the pavilion of the Istanbul Chamber of Commerce, India, Korea and Taiwan - alternative sourcing zones such as Malaysia, Singapore, the United Kingdom, Vietnam, the Netherlands and Egypt are enriching the show's offering. Dutch exhibitors Quality Textile, Nooteboom and Verhees Textiles are also back in the cotton sector, with cutting-edge and particularly creative catalogues. In the knitwear sector, we can also note the participation of the Koreans O.N.K, specialists in circular knitting, W-Tex, whose polyester blends produce remarkable fancy fabrics, or specialists in silky aspects such as JK Tex or TL Corporation. The Denim sector is growing this year, with around thirty exhibitors, including some of the world's leading names such as Winwin Textile from China and Bangladeshi supplier NZ Denim.

Innovations, initiatives and sustainability
The new “Initiatives” zone at the entrance of Hall 4 will be showcasing inspiring and sustainable solutions, such as that of Vietnamese company Bao Lan Textile with its range of silk and fabrics made from pineapple leaf fibre. These products, developed with Ecofa Vietnam, have natural antibacterial properties and offer natural UV protection up to 50+ UPF. This area will also host the China Textile Information Centre's trends forum, as well as the Econogy Hub, which brings together Messe Frankfurt's expertise on sustainability-related initiatives in the textile sector. Also to be discovered in the activewear sector is the range from Japan's Toyoshima, known for its streetwear collections, its ‘non-denim’ fabrics that consume very little water, and its astonishing wagami fabrics, produced from blends of very fine yarns made to order from cotton, linen and wool.

Apparel Sourcing: focus on Africa and near sourcing
Apparel Sourcing also has a great session in store. With more than 500 exhibitors expected - up on February 2024 - the show's rich offering of finished products, clothing and fashion accessories will be on full display over the three days. Especially when it comes to local sourcing. Alongside the major manufacturing nations - led by China and India, and Pakistan and Bangladesh, both of which have grouped their exhibitors under their national pavilions - visitors will have access to products from the Africa zone, with a hub of companies from Ethiopia, Rwanda (Pink Mango) and the Arise Integrated Industrial Platform, which brings together the expertise of garment manufacturers based in Togo, Benin and Gabon. Ukraine, back with 5 companies supported by its national textile association, will be adding to the Euromed offering from Foursource, Messe Frankfurt's near sourcing partner, which will be presenting catalogues from companies in Eastern Europe, Portugal and Morocco.

An optimised sourcing experience
The return to Paris-Le Bourget Exhibition Centre has been accompanied by an overhaul of the organisation of visitor areas. The layout of sectors and services has been reviewed to create new synergies between raw materials and finished products. Women's wear areas (All about her, Embrodery & Lace, Silky aspect...) have been set up in Hall 4 - dedicated to knitwear, silk and lace - and a large area will be devoted to the outdoor - sportswear - casualwear offer in Hall 3. Hall 2 will be a focal point for relaxation, catering and networking, as well as a place for inspiration and exchange, with trend forums, product presentations, services and the Agora for conferences and round tables.

Econogy, Small Quantity & Hand Made: themed itineraries
Three exhibitor itineraries have been designed by the Messe Frankfurt France team to meet visitors' needs. The Econogy Finder trail, for example, enables visitors to find more than 80 suppliers of sustainable textiles, listed in the show app and indicated by the Econogy logos visible on the corresponding booths. The Small Quantity itinerary then highlights the more than 200 suppliers able to offer small quantity production (less than 300 pieces for garments or less than 100 metres for fabrics). A plus for buyers looking for limited editions or small orders for capsule collections. Finally, the Hand Made itinerary identifies the more than 130 exhibitors whose catalogues feature authentic, handmade products or unique skills. These manufacturers can also be found directly on the fair's online directory.

Source Fashion, Europe’s leading responsible sourcing show, has announced an inspiring line-up of keynote speakers for its upcoming event, running from 18th to 20th February 2025 at Olympia London. On Wednesday 19th February, a full day of thought-provoking sessions will be headlined by industry visionaries including All Saints Founder Stuart Trevor, award-winning social entrepreneur Safia Minney MBE, and Andrew Xeni, Founder of Nobody’s Child.
 
The sessions will explore critical themes shaping the future of fashion, from sustainability to circularity and transparency, aiming to equip visitors with actionable insights to transform their brands and business practices.
 
Session Highlights:

• The Urgency of Transparency
  • Speaker: Andrew Xeni, Founder, Nobody’s Child, Fabacus and Soreto
  • Time: 11:00 AM
  • Synopsis: As transparency becomes the cornerstone of sustainability, Andrew Xeni will discuss how brands can lead the charge in accountability and ethical operations. From unveiling supply chain practices to empowering consumers, this session highlights the role of transparency in building trust and driving meaningful change in the fashion industry.
•  A Clothing Company That Doesn’t Produce Clothes
  • Speaker: Stuart Trevor, Founder, All Saints & Stuart Trevor
  • Time: 1:30 PM
  • Synopsis: In a groundbreaking fireside chat, Stuart Trevor will showcase how his company is pioneering circularity by transforming pre-owned clothes into desirable fashion pieces. By rethinking the traditional industry model, Trevor will illustrate the potential of upcycling to combat waste and redefine sustainable style.
• Ecosystem Thinking in Fashion: Redesigning for Regeneration
  • Speaker: Safia Minney MBE
  • Time: 2:10 PM
  • Synopsis: In a dynamic panel discussion, Safia Minney will explore strategies to adopt circular and regenerative models, scale these practices, and foster collaborative supply chain solutions. Featuring contributions from experts across industries, this session is set to empower visitors with practical tools for transformative change.

 The keynote sessions will be complemented by speakers from industry-leading organisations such as John Lewis, Vivo Footwear, Pepsi Co, Kingfisher, and environmental NGO WRAP. The full programme will be revealed in the coming weeks.
 
Join the Conversation
Source Fashion 2025 invites fashion professionals, sustainability advocates, and industry leaders to connect, learn, and lead the transformation of the fashion industry.
 
As Europe’s leading responsible sourcing show, Source Fashion brings together a global community of brands, suppliers, and thought leaders to shape the future of ethical and sustainable fashion. Through cutting-edge events, expert-led sessions, and innovative showcases, Source Fashion champions transparency, circularity, and collaboration in the industry.

About Stuart Trevor
In 1983, Stuart Trevor was a finalist in the Paul Smith/Mont Blanc competition and in 1985 he won designer of the year at The Smirnoff Fashion awards “Menswear Day”. Aged 19 he became the first designer and main buyer for REISS. At 28 he founded All Saints and many of the clothes that continue to feature every week in the top 10 bestseller list of the high-street brand today, were designed by Trevor himself over 20 years ago.
 
About Safia Minney
Safia Minney, MBE, FRSA, is an award-winning social entrepreneur, consultant and advisor. Safia is recognised by the World Economic Forum as an Outstanding Social Entrepreneur and is a leading influencer and international speaker on sustainable fashion, sustainable supply chains, ethical business and climate action.
 
Safia founded REAL Sustainability CIC in 2019, to promote awareness and action for sustainable living and leadership. In 2022 REAL launched Fashion Declares – a bottom-up, industry wide movement to promote rapid action to redesign the fashion industry to operate within planetary boundaries.
 
About Andrew Xeni
Andrew Xeni is a visionary technology and retail entrepreneur. After building successful fashion manufacturing business suppling leading UK high street brands, Xeni went on to create eco-conscious 2023 Drapers Retailer of the Year (<£100m), Nobody’s Child, of which Marks and Spencer is a strategic investor and shareholder.
Merging both retail and technology, Xeni also founded award-winning retail tech companies Fabacus and Soreto.
 
As CEO of Fabacus, a DaaS (Data-as-a-Service) technology platform for revolutionising the licencing and retail industries, Xeni has established partnerships with a number of leading businesses within the sectors, including, Fanatics, UFC, Epic Games, Ubisoft and IMG, part of Endeavour.
 
This year, seeing the growing consumer demand for sustainably, Xeni pioneered the UK-first Digital Product Passport in a collaboration with between Fabacus and Nobody’s Child, in partnership with Coinbase.
 
Xeni is backed by a number of leading financial institutions, including iNovia Partners, led by former Google CFO, Patrick Pichette, as well as New Look founder, Tom Singh. In addition to managing a diverse portfolio of businesses, and sitting as Chairman for Nobody’s Child and Soreto, Xeni is an active angel investor.

Dibella‘s latest sustainability report covers the period from January 1st, 2023 to July 31st, 2024 and documents progress and future plans in the areas of environmental, social and corporate governance.

Dibella laid the foundations for corporate social responsibility back in the early 2010s. Since then, the company has been consistently committed to the implementation of socially and environmentally consciously produced textiles and has initiated and completed numerous lighthouse projects in the supply chain. Dibella presented its activities and goals for the first time in 2012 in its sustainability report. Since then, the company has documented its progress at regular intervals.

Environment
Particularly noteworthy are the constant proportion of GOTS and Fairtrade-certified products and a significant increase in the implementation of Cotton made in Africa cotton in the supply chain using the mass balance system: from 300 tonnes in 2023 to 750 tonnes in 2024. Another highlight is the reforestation project in Tamil Nadu, India, where over 4,000 trees have already been planted to offset CO₂ emissions. As a founding member of CIBUTEX, Dibella is also committed to the recovery of textile resources and the associated reduction of environmental pollution.

Social
Dibella has initiated and completed various social projects. One example is the improvement of working conditions in the supply chain by providing ergonomic seating for employees of a Pakistani clothing manufacturer. Dibella's own GoodTextiles Foundation also supports educational projects in India and drinking water initiatives in Africa. Measures have been introduced within the company to promote a good working environment.

Corporate Governance
99.5 per cent of textiles are now labelled with the Green Button, which confirms compliance with the Supply Chain Duty of Care Act. In addition, digital transparency tools such as the respect-code, which disclose the origin and production steps of the goods, have been further expanded. Following the coronavirus-related travel restrictions, business trips to India were also resumed in order to familiarise customers and interested parties with the positive ecological and social framework conditions of the supply chain.

Goals for the future
By 2030, company-related CO2 emissions are to be reduced by 45% and the proportion of organic Fairtrade cotton is to be increased to 20%. Overall, the proportion of sustainable cotton is to be increased to 70% of production. The company will continue to focus on sustainable innovation and transparency in the future.

International technology group ANDRITZ has received an engineering order from US textile recycling innovator Circ in anticipation of its first large-scale textile recycling plant. The plant will be the first to recover cotton and polyester from blended textile waste.

Circ® is a pioneering company focused on sustainable solutions for the fashion industry. By converting fashion waste into reusable raw materials for fabrics, Circ reduces the need for petroleum and natural resources. The company’s mission is to build a truly circular economy to protect the planet from the cost of clothing.

ANDRITZ has been successfully conducting trials for Circ at the ANDRITZ Fiber R&D Center in Springfield, Ohio, USA, for several years. The successful partnership and recent developments have led to the decision to expand this cooperation.

The majority of fashion waste consists of polyester-cotton blends, which poses a significant challenge to achieving greater circularity. In particular, the separation of cellulosic and synthetic fibers from textile waste has been a major obstacle. Circ’s innovative recycling process can break down polycotton textile waste into its original components – polyester and cotton. The forthcoming plant will process 200 tons of textile waste per day, allowing cotton to be recycled for lyocell production and polyester to be reused for polyester production. This will reduce the need for virgin raw materials.

Conor Hartman, Chief Operating Officer at Circ, says: “We remain excited about this continued collaboration with ANDRITZ. Together, we will commercialize Circ’s innovative recycling process and take another step towards a truly circular fashion industry. With its expertise in engineering and building large-scale process equipment, ANDRITZ is the right partner to help us transform textile waste into recycled fibers on an industrial level.

Michael Waupotitsch, Vice President Textile Recycling at ANDRITZ, comments: “We are eager to support Circ in their vision of circularity because the technology they have developed is uniquely suited to solve one of the biggest challenges in fashion waste and recycling. With our holistic knowledge in resizing, mechanical separation, hydrothermal processing, recovery of cellulosic pulp as well as pulp cleaning and pulp drying, we have the right expertise to help them achieve their goals. Our experience in process development and machinery will help bring their innovative recycling technology to life.”

EURATEX (the European Apparel and Textile Confederation) and AMITH (Association Marocaine des Industries du Textile et de l'Habillement) signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) during the 21st edition of Maroc in Mode (MIM 2024) in Casablanca. This MoU aims to foster deeper collaboration and mutual growth within the European and Moroccan textile and clothing (T&C) industries.

The MoU underscores shared priorities, including aligning industry practices with European sustainability and circularity standards, addressing customs and regulatory challenges, and strengthening the investment and business climate between the two regions. The agreement highlights EURATEX and AMITH’s commitment to advancing competitiveness in the global textile market, supporting a seamless and cohesive approach to trade under the revised rules of the Pan Euro Med Convention, which enter into force on 1 January 2025.

This partnership also opens new avenues for information exchange on industrial technology, cross-border business initiatives, and collaborative skill development projects. By enhancing cooperation in these areas, EURATEX and AMITH are working to create a sustainable, resilient, and globally competitive Euro-Mediterranean textile industry.

"The EU-Morocco textile connection has vast untapped potential," said Mario Jorge Machado, EURATEX President. "Through our collaboration with AMITH, we aim to fortify both regions' textile sectors, embracing sustainability and competitiveness as core values. This MoU is a meaningful step toward our shared vision of a thriving Euro-Mediterranean textile ecosystem."

„This Memorandum of Understanding is important for AMITH as it will help achieving our mission: drive the continuous development of the Moroccan industry and help companies rise to new levels of excellence and sustainability” commented El Ansari Anass, AMITH President.

For the first time, a piece of clothing is made entirely from textile waste – no bottles, no packaging, no virgin plastic. 100% biorecycled fibers. By developing and industrializing CARBIOS’ enzymatic depolymerization technology to achieve 100% “fiber-to-fiber” recycling, the consortium collectively advances the textile industry's shift towards a circular economy.

CARBIOS, a pioneer in the development and industrialization of biological technologies to reinvent the life cycle of plastic and textiles, and its “fiber-to-fiber” consortium partners On, Patagonia, PUMA, Salomon, and PVH Corp., parent company of Calvin Klein, unveil the world’s first enzymatically recycled polyester garment made from 100% textile waste using CARBIOS’ pioneering biorecycling technology.

This technological feat contributes to advancing textile circularity when, today, the majority of recycled polyester is made from PET bottles, and only 1% of fibers are recycled into new fibers.  The collective achievement marks an important milestone for the consortium’s ultimate aim of demonstrating fiber-to-fiber closed loop using CARBIOS’ biorecycling process at an industrial scale, and marks an important step forward for the textile industry’s shift towards a circular economy.

A plain, white T-shirt was a deliberate choice to showcase the technological achievement that made its production possible from mixed and colored textile waste.  By using CARBIOS’ biorecycling technology, polyester is broken down using enzymes into its fundamental building blocks which are reformed to produce biorecycled polyester whose quality is on par with oil-based virgin polyester.  Petroleum can now be replaced by textile waste as a raw material to produce polyester textiles, that will in turn become raw materials again, thus fueling a circular economy, with the added benefit of a lower carbon footprint and avoidance of landfill or incineration.

The t-shirt’s production began with all consortium members (On, Patagonia, PUMA, PVH Corp. and Salomon) supplying rolls and production cutting scraps to CARBIOS in Clermont-Ferrand, France.  This textile waste consisted of some mixed blends with cotton or elastane, as well as various treatments (such as durable water repellent) and dyes which render them complex to recycle using conventional methods. The collected waste was deconstructed into its original monomers, PTA and MEG, using CARBIOS’ biorecycling technology at its pilot facility. The resulting monomers were then repolymerized, spun into yarn and woven into new fabric by external partners, demonstrating the seamless integration into existing manufacturing processes.  The resulting sports t-shirt made from 100% textile waste meets the quality standards and sustainability objectives of the apparel brands present in the “fiber-to-fiber” consortium.

CARBIOS’ demonstration plant in Clermont-Ferrand, France, has been up and running since 2021, and its first commercial plant, the world’s first industrial-scale enzymatic PET recycling plant, is currently under construction in Longlaville, France.  In addition, CARBIOS recently announced several letters of intent with PET producers in Asia and Europe, confirming global interest in its biorecycling technology and advancing the international roll-out of its licensing model.

The Salvation Army announces a collaboration with celebrity fashion stylist Rebekah Roy for Sustainable Fashion Week. Rebekah will join as special guest for an exclusive online second-hand fashion event and share expert tips on styling second-hand fashion.  The webinar will be held on Tuesday 24th September at 8 pm (BST). The partnership presents an opportunity to promote second-hand shopping and create lasting change.  
 
Listed as one of the top 100 "Most original and influential people in the UK creative and media industries” by Time Out, Rebekah is an award-winning stylist whose career boasts working on more than 75 catwalk shows, including for London Fashion Week, Rolls Royce, Ascot and Harrods. Beyond the runway, Rebekah has collaborated with iconic musicians including Duran Duran, Billy Idol, Enya, Kate Nash and Max Rae.
 
As a strong advocate for sustainability, Rebekah has also pioneered the UK’s first vegan fashion show and regularly curates the Source Fashion show at London Olympia, reflecting her commitment to a sustainable lifestyle and her vision for a fashion industry that respects our planet.
 
Sustainable Fashion Week unites the community in taking creative action; to change the fashion system from the bottom up and the programme features a series of events to take action locally and change fashion globally.  As part of SATCoL’s commitment to sustain our planet and transform lives, the 30-minute webinar with Rebekah Roy will be available to the public for free and it will encourage second-hand shopping as she shares expert tips on styling vintage looks to make your wardrobe last. In addition to this, guests will receive a free guide to take away to support them further after the event.
 
The webinar is a call to action to drive lasting change and SATCoL will take the opportunity to introduce the great work they do to help sustain the planet and give used textiles a second lease of life whilst, helping to raise vital funds for charity. The webinar will be hosted by Salvation Army Trading Company Ltd (SATCoL), who operates around 250 stores and a UK-wide clothing bank collection service on behalf of the charity. SATCoL has received industry wide recognition in fashion for their efforts to support brands and retailers to meet their sustainability goals and the webinar encourages the public to also take part in diverting more items away from disposal and to shop second-hand.

The Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions Division of the Swiss Oerlikon Group is expanding its customer services and spare parts business in the area of machines and systems for the production of carpet yarns (BCF) and industrial yarns (IDY). To this end, the company concluded an agreement with the Truetzschler Group, based in Moenchengladbach, Germany, in August. Technology experts and service staff from Oerlikon Neumag are now the new contacts for customer services and the spare parts business for Truetzschler's BCF and IDY technologies installed in the market. The Moenchengladbach-based textile machinery manufacturer is withdrawing from this business segment in order to concentrate on the spinning, card clothing and nonwovens businesses in future.

Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions offers complete solutions for the manmade fiber industry. They range from extrusion and polycondensation plants to texturized yarn, and are accompanied by automation and digital solutions. The supply of all process steps from a single source ensures a harmonized technology that guarantees high quality of the yarns produced.

Based in Neumuenster, Germany, Oerlikon Neumag, a branch of Oerlikon Textile GmbH & Co. KG and a brand of the Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions Division, has been an established and broadly positioned international supplier with proven expertise in the field of BCF for decades. The division's sister company Oerlikon Barmag from Remscheid, Germany, contributes its expertise in the field of IDY systems.

From September 11 to 14, 2024, the Trützschler Group will present its latest innovations at CAITME in Tashkent, Uzbekistan - featuring machines and technologies in spinning, card clothing and nonwovens.

Trützschler Spinning
A highlight will be Trützschler’s next generation card, the TC 30i. In recent customer trials, the TC 30i has achieved up to 40 % higher productivity while reducing energy consumption by up to -18 %. In addition, the team will share insights about the Integrated Draw Frame IDF 3, which enables shortened processes that save resources, energy and production space. Visitors will also have the opportunity to discover the TCO 21XL, a 12-head comber. This comber makes it possible to increase productivity by 50 %, while requiring 25 % less space.

Visitors will also get the chance to learn about Trützschler’s new brand for textile recycling, TRUECYCLED. The company enables its customers to produce high quality tapes while turning waste into value.

Trützschler Card Clothing
Trützschler Card Clothing (TCC) will present a range of technologies from its card clothing portfolio, covering the full spectrum of applications in the spinning and nonwovens markets. A key feature will be the Flexible Bend Control (FBC), which ensures flat setting for all card models within a few seconds and guarantees optimum quality.

Trützschler Nonwovens
Trützschler Nonwovens will focus on solutions for the production of cotton nonwovens for wipes, pads and medical products from virgin fibers, comber noils or blends. In addition, the team will provide insights into T-SUPREMA needle-punching lines and show its solutions for the specific requirements of high-potential markets such as geotextiles, filter media, automotive textiles or other durable products.