From the Sector

Trützschler expanded their portfolio to become the first full-liner in the preparation of textile waste – from mechanical recycling to the spinning preparation of torn secondary fibers.

The TRUECYCLED solution is the result of their cooperation with the company Balkan Textile Machinery INC.CO. in Turkey, which they announced at the ITMA 2023 trade event in Milan. Since then, Trützschler has received many inquiries for recycling systems.

Success with a systems approach
Recycling systems face significant technological challenges. On average, torn fibers are much shorter than virgin fibers. The percentage share of short fibers in the fiber mass is much higher. Unopened yarn and fabric particles are also difficult to process. Not surprisingly, much academic and practical research is currently conducted to find solutions for these problems. Dr. Georg Stegschuster, a researcher specializing in textile recycling, believes a systems approach is needed. He is working at the Recycling atelier, a model factory for mechanical recycling in Augsburg, Germany, which is committed to delivering the latest technological insights for textile recycling. “A perfect fine-tuning between tearing and spinning preparation is key for obtaining the best possible quality results and avoiding unnecessary fiber shortening,” he says. “This can be achieved if you are in control of both processes – and have the necessary expertise for both processes too.”

Gentle but effective
In some cases, for example, it may be advantageous to have less aggressive settings in the tearing line. This can help avoid unnecessary fiber shortening. The remaining higher share of unopened fabric must then be handled in a high-performance spinning preparation line. This starts with the right blow room configuration for perfect opening, cleaning and blending. A card that is specially designed for recycling materials, such as the new TC 30Ri, can also enable gentle but effective treatment of fibers.

A shortened drafting process is also a must. The integrated draw frame IDF 3 can make this possible. The draft is high enough to provide excellent levelling of the numerous short fibers, but low enough to prevent floating fibers.

Full-liner in mechanical recycling and preparation of textile waste
Trützschler now offers a complete system covering the whole process, from cutting and tearing textile waste through to carding and drawing secondary fibers. Thanks to this holistic approach and Trützschler’s expertise for the whole process, manufacturers can avoid unnecessary fiber shortening.

Eltex of Sweden, a pioneer in the adoption of electronic sensors by the weaving machinery industry, is marking its 60th anniversary this month.

The electronic detection of broken or missing weft yarns during production was the problem Eltex founders Åke Rydborn and Ragnar Henriksson set out to solve with the development of the world’s first electronic weft-stop-motion. Its potential was recognised on its introduction at the 1963 ITMA exhibition in Hannover, Germany, leading to the foundation of the company in a modest 12-square-metre workshop in Älmhult, Sweden, in February 1964.

By 1968 the company was operating from a modern 3,000-square-metre plant and beginning to establish a global presence, introducing the first all-in-one printed circuit board (PCB) for its sensor systems in 1971. As exports increased, further Eltex operations were established in the USA and Ireland and the company expanded its product range including energy control devices, temperature and humidity loggers, food handling safety systems, and military grade battery chargers. Further textile milestones in parallel to advances in weaving technology included optical arrival detectors for air-jet weaving machines at the beginning of the 1980s, and the QTV system for warp preparation, which introduced digital stop-motion control to the industry at the start of the 1990s. In 2009, the company branched out into carpet tufting, first with the CoTS clamp-on tube sensor for tufting machines, followed by the Compact sensor for tufting machines in 2013. In 2019 the Compact II further cemented the company’s position in this sector.

Newly developed Eltex EyETM and ACT-R
Most recently, Eltex has launched the Eltex EyETM system for the monitoring of yarn tension on warp beams. Not only does it eliminate problems when warping, but also in the subsequent weaving or tufting processes. Eltex EyETM monitors the yarn tension on all positions in real-time and a minimum and maximum allowable tension value can be set. If any yarn’s tension falls outside these values the operator can be warned or the machine stopped.

The Eltex ACT and ACT-R units meanwhile go beyond yarn tension monitoring to actually control yarn tension. This extends the application range greatly. The plug and play system automatically compensates for any differences in yarn tension that arise, for example from irregularities in yarn packages.

Eltex has been owned by Brian Hicks, Seamus O’Dwyer and Jonathan Bell since 2007, following a management buy-out and the subsequent formation of Eltex Global Holdings in Ireland. Today, its head office, Eltex of Sweden AB, is in Osby, Sweden where it provides research and development, administration and global sales for the group. Eltex Manufacturing in Ireland is now the group’s primary production facility and Eltex US, Inc. provides sales and service for North America.

Together with the German circular knitting machine builder Mayer & Cie., Groz-Beckert has developed the optimized Relanit sinker SNK F over the past years. Independently of this, the development of the new LCmax™ energy-saving needles took place. The focus of both developments is on efficiency, energy savings and increased process reliability.

Groz-Beckert offers interested machine builders different cooperation options to jointly develop new products or optimize existing ones. The Groz-Beckert Technology and Development Center (TEZ) provides the appropriate framework for so-called co-development projects. At the ITMA in Milan in June 2023, Groz-Beckert presented some of the successful cooperations under the motto "Innovation through cooperation". Among them were two new developments realized with Mayer & Cie. Groz-Beckert presented the two new products for the first time in Asia at ITMA Asia in November 2023.

Optimized Relanit sinker SNK F
At the end of 2018, circular knitting machine manufacturer Mayer & Cie. approached Groz-Beckert with a request to jointly develop an improved and more efficient sinker for selected machines of their Relanit family that would run more smoothly and reliably in the needle tricks. The innovative sinker has an integral spring with a spring force that is adapted to the sinker thickness. Field tests were consistently successful and confirmed the functionality and advantages of the new sinker.

Thanks to their adapted spring, the newly developed SNK F Relanit sinkers are securely guided while they are running through the cam track, resulting in a quieter operation. This increases process reliability and ensures an improved loop structure. In addition, wear on the swivel butts of the sinkers is reduced. This increases service life and makes the process more sustainable and cost-efficient.

Higher energy efficiency thanks to LCmax™
The objective second recent cooperation with Mayer & Cie. was to develop a cost-effective energy-saving needle. After considering various variants, the common choice of Mayer & Cie. and Groz-Beckert was the LCmax™ knitting machine needle with innovative, wave-shaped shank geometry. The first prototypes were extensively tested on laboratory machines at Groz-Beckert's TEZ.

The wave-shaped shank of the LCmax™ needle ensures a smaller contact area of the needle in the needle trick. This results in less friction, which reduces machine temperature and enables energy savings of up to 20 percent compared to a standard needle. This saves costs and at the same time allows operation of the machine at the maximum possible speed.

In both projects, the cooperation between Mayer & Cie. and Groz-Beckert went far beyond mere product development. In addition to Applications Engineering and Construction, the companies' Sales and Purchasing departments were also involved in a close exchange.

Mahlo GmbH + Co. KG will present its systems and solutions for efficient and high-quality textile production and finishing together with Shanghai Kuantex at ITMA Asia (November 19 and 23). The focus will be on the machine manufacturer's new straightening concept, the Orthopac RXVMC.

"In the new straightening concept, special attention was paid to the straightening mechanics and their interaction with the analysis electronics of the probe system," explains Sales Manager Thomas Höpfl. The control concept is also new. A probe group at the leveler infeed detects distortions even before they reach the correction rolls. In this way, the rolls are brought directly into position and the fabric is corrected from the very first centimeter. A scanner group at the outfeed also detects possible residual distortion, which is corrected at the second straightening module. This enables an even more precise and faster response when it comes to reacting to rapidly changing distortions. The Orthopac RXVMC therefore shows its full strength when straightening knitwear and fabrics sensitive to distortion.

Also contributing to high-quality textile production and finishing is the Famacont PMC for controlling weft and stitch course density, which will also be on show at ITMA Asia. The Famacont PMC-15 uses a sensor to measure the yarn or stitch density and compares it with the target value stored in the recipe data management system. The detected deviation of the yarn density from the target value is used to fully automatically regulate the leading during the needling process on the stenter frame. Interested parties can have the mode of operation explained to them at the Mahlo booth with the help of a demo tower and their own or provided fabric samples.

Another major topic remains Industry 4.0, because the best measured data is of no use if it cannot be utilized. Mahlo has continuously developed its digital environment mSmart. "Our systems generate data that the customer can use immediately to regulate goods on-line. At the same time, all measured values are backed up in our data management system mLog enhanced and can be retrieved at any time. With this historical data, processes can be optimized and weak points in the process can be minimized," explains Sales Manager Thomas Höpfl.

• Lenzing and Södra – a long-standing partnership for systemic change
• International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) honored the two companies in the "International Cooperation" category
• EU co-funded recycling project for textiles on an industrial scale

The Lenzing Group, the world’s leading supplier of specialty fibers for the textile and nonwovens industries, and the Swedish pulp producer Södra have received the ITMF Award 2023 in the category “International Cooperation” for their joint achievements in textile recycling and circular economy. The award was presented at the ITMF Annual Conference in Keqiao, China, on November 06, 2023.

The ITMF Award 2023 is given by the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) to recognize outstanding achievements and merits in the textile sector in two categories: ”Sustainability & Innovation“ and ”International Cooperation“. Since 2021, the two pioneers have been joining forces in textile recycling, making a decisive contribution to promoting the circular economy in the fashion industry. As part of the cooperation, the companies intend to share their knowledge with each other and jointly develop processes to enable the wider use of cellulose-based used textiles on a commercial scale.

The OnceMore® pulp from Södra, which was jointly developed further by Södra and Lenzing, is subsequently used, among other things, as a raw material for the production of Lenzing fibers with REFIBRA™ technology. The OnceMore® process makes it possible to process and recycle a blend of cotton and polyester.

ITMF paid particular tribute to the joint LIFE TREATS project (Textile Recycling in Europe AT Scale)¹,which was supported by an EU grant of EUR 10m under the LIFE 2022² program and aims to build a large-scale plant at Södra's Mörrum site in Sweden.

For more information on the ITMF Awards 2023, visit the ITMF website.

¹ Project 101113614 — LIFE22-ENV-SE-TREATS
² https://cinea.ec.europa.eu/programmes/life_en

Fibre Extrusion Technology Ltd (FET) of Leeds, UK has completed an international series of exhibitions, culminating in a very successful ITMA 2023, the world’s largest international textile and garment technology exhibition, which took place in Milan, Italy in June.

 “This was a very hectic period for FET, organising participation in three exhibitions in Europe and Asia over a period of less than four months” commented FET’s Managing Director Richard Slack. “However, this provides a great opportunity for smaller specialist companies like FET to raise our profile on the international stage, showing what we can offer, alongside major corporations. Being able to meet so many customers face-to-face, post pandemic also indicates a welcome return to normal business relationships.”

Prior to this was INDEX 23 in April, the world’s leading nonwovens exhibition in Geneva. The exhibition season began earlier in the year with the “Green Textile and Innovation Technology Forum and Exhibition” in Hong Kong, taking a small booth to support the event and FET’s official agent in the region, Chemtax.

FET designs, develops and manufactures extrusion equipment for a wide range of high value textile material applications worldwide and the variety of these three exhibitions illustrates FET’s scope in the industry.

SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD., together with its Brazilian representative BRASTEMA TECNOLOGIA TÊXTIL LTDA., will host the Tech Fashion shows, a series of private exhibitions held at two locations in Brazil in July and August. The exhibitions will be a showcase for the company’s latest computerized flat knitting technology, presented through fashion shows, machine exhibits and the latest knit samples featured at ITMA 2023. The event is organized by the Fashion Committee of Fitemavest, consultants to Brazil's fashion market, and will feature presentations by CS DESIGN STUDIO designer Cecilia Seibel.

Technological displays include a full lineup of SHIMA SEIKI flat knitting machines, ranging from the MACH2XS WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine to N.SVR122 computerized shaping machine, as well as the SFG-I fully automated glove knitting machine. Exhibited machines vary between locations. Details are given below under ‘Exhibited Technology.’

The potential of each of these knitting machines are maximized in combination with the SDS®-ONE APEX4 3D design system and APEXFiz® design software. At the core of the company’s "Total Fashion System" concept, SDS®-ONE APEX4 and APEXFiz® provide comprehensive support throughout the apparel supply chain, integrating production into one smooth and efficient workflow from yarn development, product planning and design to production and even sales promotion. Especially effective is their capability to improve on the design and evaluation process with virtual sampling. Ultra-realistic simulation capability on SDS®-ONE APEX4 and APEXFiz® allows virtual sampling to minimize the amount of time, cost and material spent during the sample-making process

The fashion show will feature the newest creations in WHOLEGARMENT® and other knitwear.

Finishing machinery specialist Monforts has secured a number of major orders from textile manufacturers in Central and South America recently, and was pleased to welcome a high number of visitors from the region to its stand at ITMA 2023 in Milan from June 8-14.

Among new orders are those for three Montex stenters delivered to the AustralTex Group in Argentina and a further Montex range to denim manufacturer CIT in Brazil. Guatemala’s Global Textiles placed an order for its second Montex stenter, while Mexico’s Zentrix ordered its third and Avante, also in Mexico, has opted for its sixth.

Elsewhere, orders have also been placed for the delivery of three new Montex stenters to one of Pakistan’s major corporations, as well as a new Thermex dyeing range to nonwovens manaufacturer Orsa in Italy. Further orders – both for new machines and retrofit modules – are now anticipated following ITMA 2023, which attracted over 111,000 visitors to Milan.

“Visitor footfall at ITMA 2023 was well beyond the company’s expectations, and we were especially pleased at the constant number of visitors from South American companies, as well as from Asia and Europe,” said Monforts Marketing Manager Nicole Croonenbroek. “We were able to provide them with detailed information about our portfolio of machines and technologies digitally and fielded an unprecedented number of serious enquiries, many of which promise to turn into new business.”

Monforts Montex stenters for processes such as drying, stretching, heat-setting and coating, she added, are already the industry standard for the fabric finishing industry, providing a number of advantages in terms of production throughput and especially in energy efficiency and resource savings. Other key technologies in the Monforts portfolio include relaxation dryers, Thermex dyeing ranges and Monfortex compressive shrinking ranges.

Montex®Coat
“We were also very pleased with the interest in the Montex®Coat, the latest addition to our range of technologies, which we displayed in Milan,” Croonenbroek said.

The Montex®Coat can serve a very diverse number of markets and enables full PVC coatings, pigment dyeing or minimal application surface and low penetration treatments, as well as solvent coatings. Knife coating, roller coating or screen printing can also all be accommodated with this system. It provides the ultimate in flexibility and the ability to switch quickly from one fabric run to the next, without compromising on the economical use of energy or raw materials.

Many refinements have been made to the Montex®Coat in the past few years, resulting in higher coating accuracy and the resulting quality of the treated fabrics. A number of advanced new improvements were introduced in Milan, including automatic edge limiters for immediately adapting to new coating widths and a new and simplified hand-held control device. These save considerable time in setting up the machine and ensuring consistent production.

The Montex®Coat unit displayed in Milan was sold to Vietnamese company Thai Tuan during the show.

ERCA successfully showcased their latest product during the recent ITMA 2023 exhibition, taking the opportunity to share with ITMA visitors the journey that stood behind the creation of REVECOL®.

REVECOL® transforms critical waste materials (exhausted vegetable oils) into a line of innovative and responsible chemical auxiliaries destined for the entire textile industry and its various applications, offering different characteristics: circular DNA, certification, safety, high performance, competitivity and applicability on any type of textile fiber, whether virgin or recycled.

Patagonia® and trim supplier YKK teamed up with ERCA to deploy REVECOL® in their manufacturing process. This alliance was presented to ITMA visitors as an example of what the industry can achieve through collaborative practices.

The process of sharing REVECOL® with the industry really started with the announcement of ERCA’s partnership with Patagonia® and YKK and deepened during the session Upcycling Minds Think Alike moderated by Giusy Bettoni, CEO and Founder, C.L.A.S.S. (Creativity, Lifestyle and Sustainable Synergy), and which saw the participation of Matt Swartz, Color and Material Quality Manager of Patagonia®, Fabio Locatelli, Head of ERCA, Textile Specialties Business Unit and Mike Maekawa, Sales and Business Development Manager, YKK Vietnam.

Just in time for ITMA 2023 in Milan, the flat knitting machine manufacturer STOLL has launched its new collection COLOR IN KNITTING. It holds a range of knitting techniques that were ideated for novel super fine machine gauges such as the E20.

In addition, STOLL reveals its internal design workflow, showcasing how digital software tools can speed up the design process. The core of this is k.innovation CREATE DESIGN. Through the utilization of STOLL’s jointly developed design software solution, k.innovation CREATE DESIGN, in collaboration with @KM.ON, the shape and structures of a garment, can be digitally created, allowing for its simulation before it is even knitted. The interfaces to various external 3D software tools, allow for a realistic representation of the garment facilitating faster design decisions. Once the virtual knits, made in the CREATE DESIGN software are ready for manufacturing, it will be send to a knitting technician for further processing in k.innovation CREATE PLUS, This significantly speeds up product development while reducing communication issues between designers and technicians.

Sustainability and responsible handling of precious natural resources were key factors driving the development of the latest trend collection, COLOR IN KNITTING. STOLL-knit and wear®, a technique that stands for seamless knitted garments, can play a significant role in reducing waste. In addition, fewer process steps are required in the production chain - with advantages for production efficiency.
For another highlight of COLOR IN KNITTING, the STOLL creatives have worked on imitating different yarn effects with knitting technology such as slub yarn optics or the simulation of fabrics like crepe de chine/crepe georgette

On the occasion of the 150th anniversary of STOLL, COLOR IN KNITTING features a selection of vintage pattern replicates. These patterns can be found in STOLL’s extensive sample archives in Reutlingen. It is impressive to learn that all these former fabric constructions can still be replicated today and also reinvented with todays machine features. This approach showcases the steep progression of technical advancements over the past 150 years.

STOLL´s latest trend collection culminates in the creation of an invaluable resource: the book “Color in Knitting: By Designers, for Designers”. This publication aims to cater to a diverse audience by presenting a comprehensive guide to designing with colors using various flat knitting technologies and will be presented in the chapter "Book release".