From the Sector

National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) Chairman Norman Chapman delivered the trade association’s State of the U.S. Textile Industry overview at NCTO’s 20th Annual Meeting on April 11.

Mr. Chapman’s speech highlighted the severe economic challenges confronting the U.S. textile industry that have been exacerbated by predatory trade behavior and customs fraud that is harming this vital and strategic domestic supply chain. He also highlighted NCTO’s effective advocacy efforts that resulted in a long list of accomplishments to counter some of the damaging illegal trade practices and bolster the industry.

“While the domestic textile industry is a key contributor to the U.S. economy and a critical part of the military and public health industrial base, our sector is facing a crisis of historic proportions as the result of rapidly deteriorating market conditions coupled with unchecked foreign predatory trade practices and diminished customs enforcement activities, Chapman stated in the speech. “At the end of the day, some key fundamentals for the U.S. textile industry remained sound, while others weakened. While we expect to see ongoing challenges this year, which will test our resolve, we know collectively as an industry this will not weaken our resilience or our innovative spirit.”

Archroma launched the ONE WAY+ to help mills and brands to improve their productivity and efficiency, and to reduce their environmental impact.

The program is a three-phase process of establishing the baseline, process design and implementation, and ongoing improvement. Tailor-made for selected customers, it draws on the expertise of a curated team of Archroma processing experts and leverages specialist tools and technologies, including Archroma’s ONE WAY Impact Calculator combined with Sustainability Improvement Program.

Mills that adopt Super Systems+ through the ONE WAY+ process can expect enhanced productivity and reduced resource utilization and utilities costs; in addition, also cleaner chemistry and the co-development of new aesthetics and functionalities. Participation in the ONE WAY+ process also indicates to brand partners that mills are committed to remaining sustainable by adopting global best practices and using products that are compliant with current and future regulatory requirements.

Brands that work with Archroma under ONE WAY+ will be supported with a roadmap to their sustainability targets. They will gain a better understanding of the sustainability status of their current suppliers and how this impacts their supply chain. Ultimately, the aim is to optimize efficiencies in the supply chain and connect with suppliers that are able to meet target sustainability commitments.

From base-line audit to results review, ONE WAY+ is usually carried out over 16 weeks, with a team of two or three Archroma experts working closely with the customer’s technical teams. Results achieved so far include the following:

• A textile mill in China, serving a top international sports and athleisure brand, cut its processing time by 30% while reducing water and steam requirements by 40% and achieving a 10% RFT improvement; and
• A textile mill in Peru, serving a leading American luxury fashion house, reduced water and steam usage by 20% while slashing processing time by 30%.
• A textile mill in Argentina, serving casual wear and performance apparel brands, reduced water consumption by 40% and steam usage by 20%
• A textile mill in India, serving some of the world’s largest homewares brands, improved productivity by 15% while achieving 95% right first time (RFT) processing and 0.5% quality rejection.

Glen Raven hosted United States Trade Representative (USTR) Ambassador Katherine Tai in an important visit to the company’s yarn spinning manufacturing facility and headquarters for its Sunbrella® flagship brand in Burlington, N.C. followed by an industry supply chain roundtable.

Ambassador Tai’s visit coincides with USTR’s Federal Register notice for public input to inform the administration’s development of trade and investment policy initiatives related to a domestic supply chain resilience plan.

USTR has highlighted domestic textiles as a critical part of the supply chain. The textile sector, which includes yarns, fabrics, apparel and other finished goods, will be part of its fact-finding investigation into shaping policy tools that could be deployed to enhance supply chain resilience. The office is requesting input on policies that are currently working well for these sectors, and those that are not working well, in advancing domestic supply chains.

The Ambassador’s visit to Glen Raven included a tour of the Sunbrella facilities, a design and innovation center, and a roundtable discussion with several other textile executives based in North Carolina who highlighted the significant impact of the sector to the U.S. economy.

Glen Raven, a family-owned company founded in 1880, operates five manufacturing facilities in North and South Carolina employing 2,500 people, including their joint venture with Shawmut Corporation. The company is currently in the process of scaling a $250 million multi-phase U.S. capacity expansion plan of its facilities and infrastructure to meet customer demand.

• Solvay’s FY 2023 financial statements reflect the Partial Demerger completed on December 9, 2023, with the Specialty businesses transferred to Syensqo classified as discontinued operations for 2023.
• New Solvay leadership team committed to drive the transformation of the company.
• Net sales for the full year 2023 at €4,880 million were down -12.6% organically versus 2022, driven primarily by volume declines. In Q4, net sales decreased organically by -18.9% from both lower volumes and prices.
• Underlying EBITDA of €1,246 million for the full year 2023 was stable (+0.2%) on an organic basis compared to a record 2022, with positive Net Pricing and lower fixed costs offsetting the drop in volumes. EBITDA in the fourth quarter was down -24.5% organically vs Q4 2022, fully driven by lower volumes, with variable costs reduction offsetting price erosion, while fixed costs decreased slightly.
• Underlying net profit from continuing operations was €588 million in 2023 compared to €740 million in 2022.
• Free Cash Flow of €561 million in 2023 (+17.3% vs. €479 million in 2022) resulting in a record FCF conversion ratio of 45.4%, thanks to the strong EBITDA performance and to the positive impact from working capital variation.
• ROCE was 20.4% in 2023, -2.5pp compared to 2022 as a result of lower profit.
• Solid balance sheet at the end of December 2023, in line with the target capital structure announced in November 2023, with an underlying net debt of €1.5 billion, which translates into a leverage ratio of 1.2x.
• Total proposed gross dividend of €2.43 per share, subject to shareholders’ approval during the next Ordinary General Meeting of May 28, 2024.
• Solvay continues to reduce its GHG emissions (-19% vs 2021, scope 1 and 2).
• 2024 Outlook: Organic growth of the underlying EBITDA of -10% to -20% compared to restated 2023; Free cash flow of minimum €260 million

2024 outlook
Across its product portfolio, Solvay expects current demand levels to continue over the next few months and, as such, expects H1 2024 volumes to be broadly in line with H2 2023. At this point, there is little visibility on the second half of the year, however there are signs that the trend in the second half could improve. Solvay expects Soda Ash prices over FY 2024 to be lower than FY 2023, consistent with the current market environment, which will affect the business margin in 2024. Pricing trends across Solvay’s other businesses are forecasted to be more resilient year on year.

Lower energy and raw materials prices should offset some of the negative pressure on the topline. More importantly, Solvay has started to implement cost savings initiatives that will start to deliver results in 2024.

For full year 2024, Solvay expects an organic growth of the underlying EBITDA by -10% to -20% versus a high comparison base in 2023, especially in H1. This translates into a range of €925 million to €1,040 million at a 1.10 EUR/USD exchange rate.

The organic growth of the underlying EBITDA is calculated from a 2023 restated figure of €1,154 million (vs a reported figure of €1,246 million).

Free cash flow to Solvay shareholders from continuing operations is expected to be greater than €260 million, in line with the cash usage prioritization presented during the Capital Market Day in November 2023. It is supported by Solvay’s ability to manage its capex and working capital to ensure the financing of its businesses and the payment of dividends while keeping the strength of its balance sheet intact.

Solvay remains committed to implement its strategic roadmap and reconfirms its 2028 targets as communicated at the Capital Markets Day of November 2023.

Members of TMAS – the Swedish textile machinery association – will display technologies in alignment with the theme of digitalisation at the forthcoming Techtextil and Texprocess 2024 exhibitions, taking place in Frankfurt from April 23-26th.

Automatic handling
The fully automated and digitised handling solutions for finished garments, home textiles and furniture of Eton Systems, for example, will be demonstrated at Texprocess.

Designed to increase value-added time in production by eliminating manual transportation and minimising handling, the individually addressable product carriers are fully managed and controlled by the latest ETONingenious™ software. This web based real-time data collection and information system continuously accumulates, processes and makes all production information instantly available to supervisors, quality control personnel and management.

Bespoke seams
Svegea will demonstrate its EC 300-XS colarette technology, which is used by garment manufacturers around the world for the production of tubular apparel components such as cuff and neck tapes and other seam reinforcements.

The EC 300-XS collarette cutter on show in Frankfurt is equipped with the latest E-Drive II system providing the operator with a very user-friendly touchscreen, providing full control of the cutting process. An accompanying FA 350 fully automatic roll slitting machine will also be demonstrated.

Digital finishing
At Techtextil meanwhile, Baldwin Technology Co. will provide full details of how its highly digitised TexCoat G4 non-contact spray technology for textile finishing and remoistening not only reduces water, chemicals and energy consumption, but also provides the flexibility to adapt to customer requirements in terms of single and double-sided finishing applications.

TexCoat G4 can reduce water consumption and chemical usage by as much as 50% compared to traditional padding application processes.

Yarn tension
Celebrating its 60th anniversary this year, Eltex will display the latest Eltex EyETM system for the continuous monitoring of yarn tension on warp beams.

The Eltex EyETM eliminates problems when warping, and also in subsequent weaving or tufting processes, monitoring the yarn tension on all positions in real-time and enabling a minimum and maximum allowable tension value it be set. If any yarn’s tension falls outside these values the operator can be warned or the machine stopped.

The Eltex ACT and ACT-R units meanwhile go beyond yarn tension monitoring to actually control yarn tension. This extends the application range greatly. The plug and play system automatically compensates for any differences in yarn tension that arise, for example from irregularities in yarn packages.

Accumulated know-how
Vandewiele Sweden AB benefits from all of the synergies and accumulated know-how of Vandewiele Group, supplying weft yarn feeding and tension control units for weaving looms to the majority of weaving machine manufacturers. It also retrofits its latest technologies to working mills to enable instant benefits in terms of productivity and control.

The company will present its latest X4 yarn feeders with integrated accessory displays (TED) as a new standard, as well as launching its own e-commerce platform – iroonline.com.

The TED function enables weft tension settings to be transferred from one machine to another, enabling a fast start-up the next time the same article is woven. The position of the S-Flex Tensioner is constantly monitored by an internal sensor – even if adjustment is made during power off.

X4 feeders are also available with integrated active tension control (ATC-W) as an option. With the ATC-W active tension control, the required tension is easily set and monitored on the integrated display. Once set, the system constantly regulates itself, ensuring consistent yarn tension during the weaving process which is constantly and accurately measured by the ATC sensor unit, sending a signal to the ATC operator unit resulting in consistently stable yarn tension at the required level.

Baldwin Technology Co. will join Elmatex GmbH at Techtexil (April 23-26 in Frankfurt, Germany) to demonstrate its TexCoat™ G4 precision spray finishing system.

With Baldwin’s system, the chemistry is precisely distributed across the textile surface and is applied only where it is required, on one or both sides of the fabric. The non-contact technology eliminates chemistry dilution in wet-on-wet processes, allowing full control of maintaining consistent chemistry coverage rates. Plus, pad bath contamination is eliminated, and changeovers are only required when there is a change of finish chemistry.
 
Furthermore, the system offers automated speed tracking, fabric-width compensation, and real-time monitoring to track system uptime, performance and chemistry usage, as well as active care alerts.
 
In addition, the TexCoat™ G4 system can process a wide range of low-viscosity water-based chemicals, such as durable water repellents, softeners, antimicrobials, flame retardants and more. Baldwin’s technology utilizes the same chemicals used in the traditional pad bath, and no special auxiliaries are required. The recipe is adjusted by increasing the concentration and reducing the pickup by a corresponding amount, so that the same level of solids is applied.
 
Some applications, such as durable water repellents, are only applied on the face of the fabric, instead of the traditional method of saturation through dipping and squeezing. Drier fabric entering the stenter means lower drying temperatures and faster process speeds. Single-side applications also open up the opportunity to process back-coated or laminated fabrics in a single pass of the stenter, instead of two passes.

The 17th World-Pultrusion-Conference (WPC) took place in Hamburg from 29 February to 1 March. Pultrusion, also known as the extrusion process, is a highly efficient method for producing fibre-reinforced plastic profiles for various applications in the construction/infrastructure and transport sectors.

A record number of almost 150 participants from all over the world attended the event. An international audience of experts from Europe and the USA, as well as China, India and Japan was represented.

The lecture programme with a total of 25 specialist lectures was strongly characterised by the topic of sustainability. The process development of thermoplastic pultrusion and applications in wind energy, solar panels, bridge construction and the automotive industry were also discussed at length. Despite the difficult market environment, many opportunities and possibilities for the pultrusion industry were presented.

The conference takes place every two years in a European country of importance to the pultrusion industry and is organised by AVK for the European Pultrusion Technology Association (EPTA), in cooperation with the American Composites Manufacturers Association (ACMA).

Borealis is commemorating its thirtieth year of operations. Born of a merger between Statoil and Neste, Borealis has expanded from its early Nordic roots to become one of the top polyolefins players. Its dedication to value creation through innovation has produced proprietary and transformative technologies which benefit society and accelerate the transition to a circular economy. The company is regularly ranked as Austria's top innovator in the European Patent Index and holds an extensive patent portfolio of around 8,900 granted patents. In Europe in particular, Borealis has for decades bolstered the industrial landscape by investing in its capital assets, and by providing thousands of jobs.

Innovations
Borealis uses technological innovation to add value to polyolefin-based applications, ensure that production processes are made more resource efficient, and to accelerate plastics circularity. Borstar®, the multi-modal proprietary technology for the manufacture of polyethylene (PE) and polypropylene (PP), has been a mainstay of Borealis success since the start-up of the first Borstar PE plant in Porvoo, Finland in 1995. Borstar has since been joined by other technology brands, like Borlink™, an innovation for the power cable industry; Borstar® Nextension Technology, an innovation that among other benefits facilitates the production of monomaterial applications designed for recycling; or the Borcycle™ M technology for mechanical recycling, which breathes new life into polyolefin-based, post-consumer waste, transforming it into applications with a lower carbon footprint.

Global Expansion
With the strong support of its two majority shareholders OMV (Austria) and The Abu Dhabi National Oil Company (ADNOC, UAE), Borealis continues to expand its global footprint. The joint venture Borouge, established in 1998 in the UAE, and listed on the Abu Dhabi Securities Exchange (ADX) since 2022, is one of the largest integrated polyolefin complexes. It is currently the site of the company’s largest-ever growth project: Borouge 4, the new USD 6.2 billion facility in Ruwais, which will serve customers in the Middle East and Asia. In North America, the Baystar™ joint venture, founded in 2017 and operated with partner TotalEnergies, entailed the construction of a new ethane cracker as well as the most advanced Borstar plant ever built outside of Europe. The PE Borstar 3G plant in Pasadena, Texas was started up in late 2023 and has brought Borstar to this continent for the first time. Borealis’ commitment to Europe as a production location is evidenced by the new, world-scale propane dehydrogenation (PDH) plant currently under construction at Borealis operations in Kallo, Belgium.

The fifth edition of IFCO Istanbul Fashion Connection took place from 7 to 10 February 2024 with a record 38,545 visitors. At IFCO, 545 exhibitors met international trade visitors from 159 countries such as Australia, Canada, Colombia, France, Germany, Kenya, Malaysia, Mexico, Nigeria, Philippines, Saudi Arabia, South Africa, South Korea, Spain, Thailand, UK, USA, United Arab Emirates in a total of 8 halls at the Istanbul Expo Centre. The largest group of foreign visitors came from the Middle East (33.4%), Europe (24%), Asia (23.3%) and North Africa (13.3%). A total of 6% of visitors came from the USA, South America, Australia and Africa.

Divided into clear exhibition areas on a total of 100,000 square metres of exhibition space, brands and manufacturers presented the latest collections from the areas of womenswear, menswear, kidswear, denim, sportswear, evening and wedding wear, lingerie, hosiery, leather and furs.

The next IFCO is planned for 7-9 August 2024.

Eltex of Sweden, a pioneer in the adoption of electronic sensors by the weaving machinery industry, is marking its 60th anniversary this month.

The electronic detection of broken or missing weft yarns during production was the problem Eltex founders Åke Rydborn and Ragnar Henriksson set out to solve with the development of the world’s first electronic weft-stop-motion. Its potential was recognised on its introduction at the 1963 ITMA exhibition in Hannover, Germany, leading to the foundation of the company in a modest 12-square-metre workshop in Älmhult, Sweden, in February 1964.

By 1968 the company was operating from a modern 3,000-square-metre plant and beginning to establish a global presence, introducing the first all-in-one printed circuit board (PCB) for its sensor systems in 1971. As exports increased, further Eltex operations were established in the USA and Ireland and the company expanded its product range including energy control devices, temperature and humidity loggers, food handling safety systems, and military grade battery chargers. Further textile milestones in parallel to advances in weaving technology included optical arrival detectors for air-jet weaving machines at the beginning of the 1980s, and the QTV system for warp preparation, which introduced digital stop-motion control to the industry at the start of the 1990s. In 2009, the company branched out into carpet tufting, first with the CoTS clamp-on tube sensor for tufting machines, followed by the Compact sensor for tufting machines in 2013. In 2019 the Compact II further cemented the company’s position in this sector.

Newly developed Eltex EyETM and ACT-R
Most recently, Eltex has launched the Eltex EyETM system for the monitoring of yarn tension on warp beams. Not only does it eliminate problems when warping, but also in the subsequent weaving or tufting processes. Eltex EyETM monitors the yarn tension on all positions in real-time and a minimum and maximum allowable tension value can be set. If any yarn’s tension falls outside these values the operator can be warned or the machine stopped.

The Eltex ACT and ACT-R units meanwhile go beyond yarn tension monitoring to actually control yarn tension. This extends the application range greatly. The plug and play system automatically compensates for any differences in yarn tension that arise, for example from irregularities in yarn packages.

Eltex has been owned by Brian Hicks, Seamus O’Dwyer and Jonathan Bell since 2007, following a management buy-out and the subsequent formation of Eltex Global Holdings in Ireland. Today, its head office, Eltex of Sweden AB, is in Osby, Sweden where it provides research and development, administration and global sales for the group. Eltex Manufacturing in Ireland is now the group’s primary production facility and Eltex US, Inc. provides sales and service for North America.