From the Sector

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals, will be presenting its innovative and sustainable denim solutions for manufacturers and brands at DenimsandJeans Vietnam 2018, on June 27 and 28.
From fiber to finish, Archroma offers a scope of possibilities for effects and colors, from the authentic roots of indigo to the most innovative and eco-advanced solutions. Archroma is a recognized leader in integrated solutions, offering best-in-class auxiliaries for bespoke process packages.
Visitors will be able to discover solutions designed to make denim in a more sustainable and responsible way, in particular:
DENISOL®, BRINGING INDIGO BACK TO ITS ROOTS - NOW ANILINE-FREE*
Archroma’s Denisol® range is a newly developed pre-reduced liquid indigo solution that is manufactured in Archroma’s award winning ‘zero liquid discharge’ manufacturing plant in Pakistan.

• Denisol® Indigo 30 liq is compliant with major official eco-standards and requirements from retailers, brands and fashion leading companies and helps to produce fabrics suitable for current eco-labeling such as bluesign® and GOTS.
• Responding to demands for a non-toxic alternative to the dyes that are used for the iconic and traditional indigo blue that consumers associate with denim and jeans, Archroma just announced the upcoming new Denisol® Pure Indigo 30.

ADVANCED DENIM, TOWARDS WATERLESS DENIM DYEING
Consider this: The water needed to produce one pair of jeans is said to be ~ 11'000 liters(1). With approximately 167 million pairs of jeans produced monthly(2), that is 1,837,000,000,000 liters of water consumed every month in the process! Based on the Denim-Ox and Pad/Sizing-Ox dyeing processes, Archroma’s multi-awarded ADVANCED DENIM, dyeing technology allows savings of up to 92% in water, 87% in cotton waste and 30% in energy, compared to a conventional denim dyeing process.
The technology has been adopted by brands like Patagonia and received the prestigious 2012 ICIS Innovation Award and Innovation with Best Environmental Benefit Award.

• Optisul® C, “soft colors” made easy
  Colors other than blue have been tricky to achieve in the past. With Optisul® C dyes, denim manufacturers can expand their color horizons with this range of six dyes especially designed to produce soft denim colors in continuous dyeing processes, as well as on coating and printing. Optisul® C affinity-free, sulfide-free dyes can easily be combined with each other to create garments suitable for wash-down treatments in a wide array of easily achievable and reproducible soft colors. They are suitable for GOTS and bluesign® approval.
• Diresul® RDT Ocean Blues, ocean-themed bright sulfur blue dyes
  Archroma’s Diresul® RDT Ocean Blues are a collection of vibrant, ocean-themed bright sulfur blue dyes. These best-in-class dyes and their auxiliaries bring out the best of indigo, improve workability, dyeing consistency and process safety.
  They can be combined with Denisol® Indigo 30 liq in bottoming/topping manufacturing routes for avant-garde blue styles. At the booth, Archroma will display an “illustration collection” of exciting indigo casts.
• Diresul® blacks & greys, a universe of greys and deep black and navies.
  Archroma’s dye portfolio of conventional and black Diresul® specialties allow to create a universe of greys and deep black and navies. From superficial to solid blacks for both extreme wash-down and stay black effects.

EARTHCOLORS, TRACEABLE FROM NATURE TO FASHION
As consumers increasingly aspire to functional, beautiful and meaningful clothing, brands and manufacturers are increasingly interested in the environmental impact of the denim industry. Archroma has placed sustainability at the heart of its innovation process to create products and processes that improve the industry’s sustainability.
The EarthColors patented range of “biosynthetic” dyes for cotton and cellulose-based fabrics, which are made from waste left over by the agricultural and herbal industry after extraction, such as almond shells, saw palmetto, or rosemary leaves. The latest NFC technology used on the end-product hangtags enables transparency and traceability through the supply chain to consumers.
The EarthColors allow to produce the earth tones that are coming strong: red, brown and green colors. They have been adopted by brands such as Patagonia, Kathmandu and G-Star, and won an OutDoor Industry Award 2017.

SOLUTION PACKAGES FOR SUSTAINABILITY
Brand owners and retailers around the world are taking action to evaluate the environmental impact of textile treatment, dyeing and finishing processes in response to consumer concerns.

Archroma recently introduced the ONE WAY Process Simulator, the last update of a calculation tool that supports its ONE WAY Sustainability Service introduced back in 2012. The new, online software can be used to mimic and compare products and processes, and thus calculate the ecological and economical profile of the final end-product.
Archroma’s portfolio of ZDHC MRSL-compliant chemicals and dyes is integrated into the ONE WAY calculation tool since 2013.
“Innovation and sustainability go hand in hand,” says Paul O’Prey, Head of Sales, Brand & Performance Textile Specialties, Archroma, Vietnam. “While developing new products and services, we always consider the environmental impact so they are as sustainable as possible. This can be seen in our innovative and eco-advance products, such as the water-saving ADVANCED DENIM and the aniline-free* Denisol® Pure Indigo.”

• Amazon, EasySize, Evo Pricing and Lectra explored diverse uses for customer data during a round table event organized by the ESCP Europe - Lectra ‘Fashion & Technology’ Chair Paris

Lectra, the world leader in integrated technology solutions dedicated to industries using fabrics, leather, technical textiles and composite materials, the French business school ESCP Europe and their joint ‘Fashion & Technology’ Chair examined the multiple ways the fashion industry’s ecosystem can use customer data, during a recent round table event at the start of the fifth Fashion Tech Week in Paris.

Elise Beuriot, senior category leader, EU Luggage, Amazon, Olivier Dancot, VP of data, Lectra, Fabrizio Fantini, founder and CEO, Evo Pricing, and Gulnaz Khusainova, founder and CEO, Easysize, agreed straight away on one key point: the analysis of customer data lends itself to limitless applications along the entire fashion value chain. Its impact is immense, whether in terms of customer satisfaction, competitiveness, revenues or waste limitation.

As early as the design phase, a wealth of data offers many sources of inspiration for stylists. For teams in charge of collections, “complex models allow the analysis of data like online traffic and purchase history in order to design and offer the products that consumers expect, which is a priority for a company obsessed by the customer, like Amazon,” stated Elise Beuriot. For sales, “decisions based on data trigger millions of orders. The impact on the inventory is enormous,” she added.

“Fashion is an industry where unsold items generate a lot of waste. Algorithms and big data analysis can reduce left-overs by anticipating demand several weeks ahead in order to optimize the price and replenishment,” observed Fabrizio Fantini. “Fashion companies who exploit data to inform their decisions become more efficient. They are better armed to protect their margins, but can also sell for less, and potentially reach a larger number of consumers.”

Other IT models aggregate customer data in real time ‘to determine, among hundreds of factors, those which have the biggest influence on buying decisions. Value doesn’t necessarily lie in the volume of data but in the depth of the analyses,’ claimed Gulnaz Khusainova. Easysize is careful that collected data is anonymous, she underlined, because ‘consumers need to keep control of their data, and know how it is used’.
For editors of software dedicated to fashion businesses, and suppliers of cutting machines designed for the clothing industry, “analyzing usage data from our solutions enables the offer to evolve, making each step in the value chain more efficient and perfectly adapted to the needs of the brands, retailers and manufacturers. What is at stake is better quality products, placed on the market as quickly as possible and at a reduced cost,” explained Olivier Dancot.

“It is easy to collect data, but difficult to extract actionable information. Everything hinges on data analysis,” concluded Céline Abecassis-Moedas, professor and co-scientific director of the ‘Fashion & Technology’ Chair and moderator of the round table. “Due to its emotional dimension—from the stylist’s inspiration to the consumer’s desire to buy—fashion is not an industry like others. However, all the components that make up its ecosystem can truly benefit from the judicious exploitation of customer data. Examples discussed this evening illustrate the diversity of what is possible.

Für die Aus- und Weiterbildung von Verkaufsmitarbeitern sind Fernlehrgänge besonders geeignet, da sie flexibel genutzt werden können und keine Fehlzeiten verursachen. Am 10. Oktober 2017 (Anmeldeschluss: 3. Oktober) starten wieder zwei Fernlehrgänge für Bekleidung und Schuhe, die von der Staatlichen Zentralstelle für Fernunterricht zugelassen sind:

• Der Lehrgang „Bekleidung verkaufen mit Herz und Verstand“ vermittelt in fünf monatlichen Lehrbriefen mit je rund 50 Seiten umfangreiche Kenntnisse über Damen- und Herrenoberbekleidung sowie über erfolgreiche Verkaufsgespräche.
• Der Schuh-Lehrgang „Wissen erweitern – Beratung verbessern – Erfolg steigern“ besteht ebenfalls aus fünf leicht verständlichen Lehrbriefen mit je ca. 70 Seiten zu den Themen Bedarfsermittlung, Fußgesundheit, Schuhmaterialien und –pflege sowie Verkaufsgespräch.

Hinweis: Bestellung und weitere Informationen beim BTE, An Lyskirchen 14, 50676 Köln, Fax 0221/92 15 09 10, E-Mail: itebestellungen@bte.de oder im BTE-Webshop unter www.shop.bte.de  (Rubrik: Fachliteratur/Schulungsmaterial).

In Deutschland finden die Aufsichtsbehörden in Artikeln aus Leder immer noch das verbotene Chrom VI. So wurde im EU-Schnellwarndienst RAPEX in den letzten Wochen mehrfach vor entsprechender Ware gewarnt. Besonders oft waren dabei Handschuhe betroffen, und zwar auch von deutschen Marken wie Roeckl und Polo. Die Artikel waren damit nicht verkehrsfähig und mussten aus dem Verkauf genommen werden. Den Lieferanten droht zudem ein Bußgeld.

Der BTE empfiehlt daher allen Unternehmen, beim Einkauf noch einmal vom Lieferanten zu fordern, dass kein Chrom VI nachweisbar ist. Ggf. sollte dies auch in die eigenen Einkaufsbedingungen aufgenommen werden. Bei Eigenmarken bzw. großen Einkaufsmengen sollte der Händler außerdem stichprobenartig die Ware selbst auf Chrom VI untersuchen.

Besserer Rückgriff im Gewährleistungsfall

Mitunter treten versteckte Mängel an Bekleidungsstücken erst Jahre nach der Lieferung vom Hersteller an den Handel zutage und werden dann vom Endkunden reklamiert. Je nach Lieferland bzw. Vertragsgestaltung können die Folgen für den Modehändler jedoch sehr unterschiedlich sein. Denn während das deutsche Bürgerliche Gesetzbuch dem Händler bis zu fünf Jahre lang die Möglichkeit bietet, nach einer späten, berechtigten Verbraucherreklamation Regress zu nehmen, kennen andere europäische Länder eine solche handelsfreundliche Regelung nicht. 

Hintergrund: Das europäische Gewährleistungsrecht hat nur die Verbraucherrechte betont und den Anspruch des Händlers gegen seinen Lieferanten der nationalen Gesetzgebung überlassen. Hier hat der deutsche Handel davon profitiert, dass der Handelsverband Deutschland HDE bzw. die Einzelhandelsorganisation, die auch den BTE trägt, die Bundesregierung schon vor Jahren in intensiven Gesprächen von der Notwendigkeit einer entsprechenden Regelung überzeugen konnte. Ein weiterer Beleg, wie wichtig entsprechende Verbändearbeit für jeden Händler sein kann!

Da vergleichbare effiziente Interessenvertretungen im Ausland nicht oder kaum existieren, ist die Rechtsposition des Handels dort schlechter. Besonders im Mittelmeerraum fehlt bei Käufen von Bekleidung und auch Schuhen oder Lederwaren gelegentlich gegenüber Herstellern ein wichtiger Rechtsbehelf.

Der BTE empfiehlt daher: Wer nicht einzelvertraglich mit seinem Lieferanten eine dem deutschen § 479 Abs. 2 BGB entsprechende Regelung vereinbaren will oder kann, sollte versuchen, generell die Geltung deutschen Rechts in Verträgen mit Ausländern festzulegen. Im Zweifel ist dies die Handels-freundlichere und im Streitfalle auch besser durchsetzbare Rechtsordnung!

• Grundstoffe: Baumwolle, Chemiefasern (cellulosische und synthetische), Feine Haare, Leder, Leinen, Naturfasern, Pelze I und II, Seide und Wolle.
• Verarbeitung: Färben/Drucken/Veredeln, Garne & Zwirne, Maschenware und Weben.
• Verwendung: Anzüge (Herren), Hemden, Hosen (Damen und Herren), Jacken/Mäntel, Outdoor-, Sport- und Funktionsmaterialen sowie –mode, Waschen/Reinigen/Pflegen, Schuhe (Grundlagen und Modelle) und Taschen.

Die Frühjahr/Sommer-Saison war für die Modebranche nicht einfach. Es gab zwar im März/April eine umsatzfördernde Schönwetter-Periode, danach folgte aber ein Auf und Ab, so dass der stationäre Modefachhandel im Durchschnitt den Vorjahresumsatz nach BTE-Berechnungen knapp verfehlt haben dürfte.

Als Folge sind die Bestände an aktueller Ware in etlichen Modehäusern noch hoch, was die Lagerräumung nicht erleichtern dürfte. In diesem Zusammenhang empfiehlt der BTE, den Sommer-Schluss-Verkauf als Räumungs-Event intensiv zu nutzen. Als Starttermin haben der BTE und die anderen Handelsverbände in diesem Jahr den 31. Juli propagiert. Er markiert das Ende bzw. den Höhepunkt der Reduzierungsphase und lockt so immer noch – wenn auch regional unterschiedlich stark - beträchtliche Teile der Bevölkerung zu diesem Anlass in die Läden.

Der Handel profitiert davon, dass die Medien nach wie vor über den Schlussverkauf berichten und so für einen beträchtlichen PR-Effekt sorgen. Der BTE rät deshalb, diese kostenlose Vorlage zu nutzen und die Kunden über den Start der letzten Reduzierungs-Phase zu informieren. Aufwändige begleitende Schlussverkaufs-Werbung rechnet sich sicher nicht immer, aber zumindest kostengünstige Kanäle (z.B. Schaufenster-Werbung, eigener Newsletter oder Facebook) sollten dafür ggf. verwendet werden.

Hinweis: Der BTE und der HDE Handelsverband Deutschland werden im Vorfeld  wieder entsprechende Pressemeldung zum Sommer-Schluss-Verkauf verbreiten, die erfahrungsgemäß zahlreiche Berichte in den Medien auslösen. Die entsprechende BTE-Meldung ist im Internet unter www.bte.de einzusehen.

Lectra has leveraged more than 10 years of experience in connected manufacturing to offer Versalis®, an innovative digital solution designed to cut leather without compromise on quality. Featuring a powerful automatic nesting system for overall improvements in efficiency, the fully automated solution enables automotive leather suppliers to cut costs, improve productivity and minimize waste while also establishing a pathway to value-added Industry 4.0 processes.

Currently, almost 90% of leather used for automotive applications is cut using manual die presses, which require designers to build a physical prototype and finalize the design through trial and error. Lectra offers a fully digitalized leather solution from prototyping to cut parts—when used in combination with Lectra’s 3D prototyping and pattern-making software, Versalis digital leather cutting solution enables a 12-16 week reduction in development and launch cycles for vehicle seating models.
During the leather-cutting phase, the latest release of Versalis LeatherSuite allows automotive leather suppliers to achieve up to 15% greater productivity. Lectra’s end-to-end automotive leather offering furthermore guarantees optimal uptime through an extensive worldwide support network of field engineers and technical experts.
"Lectra focuses on a consultative approach that allows it to fully understand the customer’s needs before building a solution comprising software, hardware, consulting, training, and after-sales support,” said Frost & Sullivan Industry Analyst Kamalesh Mohanarangam. "Lectra’s equipment is fitted with more than 200 sensors that predict failure and immediately report issues to its call centres. This product feature and service has resulted in 98% uptime and very fast mean time to repair."

Although digital leather cutting solutions are an investment, leather cutters and Tier-1 suppliers have begun to recognize the value of these products. On average, Lectra’s solutions help customers achieve up to 7% savings on leather compared to manual die-press methods by minimizing human error and variability in the cutting room. A benchmark test of leather trim cutting for door panels demonstrated a 3.5% gain in material made possible by Versalis’ superior nesting capabilities compared to the customer’s yield using manual nesting with die press machines, representing potential savings of €9 million per year.
Versalis is the fruit of significant R&D investment for the company, which has always made re-investment of capital a priority. As part of a transformational plan, Lectra spent more than €50 million in investments between 2011 and 2015. With Lectra’s new strategy focusing on supporting their customers’ transition to Industry 4.0 standards, Lectra will increase the share of revenues dedicated to R&D to 10% for the period from 2017 to 2019, representing a rise of about 50% between 2016 and 2019.

JEC Asia is on the threshold of 10 years. In November of this year, not only does it transfer the composites exhibition to Seoul for the first time, but it will also highlight the composites industry in End-Users Markets, such as the development of materials for Transportation (including Automotive & Aeronautics), renewable energies, Building & Construction, Electrical & Electronic Equipment (EEE) or again Sports & Leisure.
JEC Asia is the annual grand occasion for composites industries in Asia. Every year thousands of professionals and more than 200 companies from more than 45 countries across Asia-Pacific come together in this place creating innumerable business opportunities.

“In 2016, Asia represented 43% of the global Composites Market in value i.e. $35,26 Bn. This important market needs to be addressed in accordance with its needs and specificities. For instance, in volume, Asia accounts for 27% of the global weight of Composite use in EEE; if we add China, this figure raises to 66% of the world usage in Kilo Tons. Thanks to our partnerships with Asians clusters, government and Industries, and also thanks to our permanent office in Singapore, we are stronger in bringing dedicated content and solutions to Composites professionals in Asia or interested in the Asian markets.” comments Mrs. Frédérique Mutel, JEC Group President & CEO. “Besides, JEC Asia steering committee is mainly composed of Asian academics, industrialists and officials to make sure that the November event will perfectly fit current and future interest for this region”, she adds.
Conferences on Composites in Automotive, Aeronautics, IT & EEE and Sports & Leisure are already planned in the agenda.