From the Sector

Textiles are a given in civil engineering: they stabilize water protection dams, prevent runoff containing pollutants from landfills, facilitate the revegetation of slopes at risk of erosion, and even make asphalt layers of roads thinner. Until now, textiles made of highly resistant synthetic fibers have been used for this purpose, which have a very long lifetime. For some applications, however, it would not only be sufficient but even desirable for the auxiliary textile to degrade in the soil when it has done its job. Environmentally friendly natural fibers, on the other hand, often decompose too quickly. The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) are developing a bio-based protective coating that extends their service life.

Depending on humidity and temperature, natural fiber materials can degrade in the soil in a matter of months or even a few days. In order to significantly extend the degradation time and make them suitable for geotextiles, the Denkendorf team researches a protective coating. This coating, based on lignin, is itself biodegradable and does not generate microplastics in the soil. Lignin is indeed biodegradable, but this degradation takes a very long time in nature.

Together with cellulose, Lignin forms the building materials for wood and is the "glue" in wood that holds this composite material together. In paper production, usually only the cellulose is used, so lignin is produced in large quantities as a waste material. So-called kraft lignin remains as a fusible material. Textile production can deal well with thermoplastic materials. All in all, this is a good prerequisite for taking a closer look at lignin as a protective coating for geotextiles.

Lignin is brittle by nature. Therefore, it is necessary to blend the kraft lignin with softer biomaterials. These new biopolymer compounds of brittle kraft lignin and softer biopolymers were applied to yarns and textile surfaces in the research project via adapted coating systems. For this purpose, for example, cotton yarns were coated with lignin at different application rates and evaluated. Biodegradation testing was carried out using soil burial tests both in a climatic chamber with temperature and humidity defined precisely according to the standard and outdoors under real environmental conditions. With positive results: the service life of textiles made of natural fibers can be extended by many factors with a lignin coating: The thicker the protective coating, the longer the protection lasts. In the outdoor tests, the lignin coating was still completely intact even after about 160 days of burial.

Textile materials coated with lignin enable sustainable applications. For example, they have an adjustable and sufficiently long service life for certain geotextile applications. In addition, they are still biodegradable and can replace previously used synthetic materials in some applications, such as revegetation of trench and stream banks.

Thus, lignin-coated textiles have the potential to significantly reduce the carbon footprint: They reduce dependence on petroleum-based products and avoid the formation of microplastics in the soil.

Further research is needed to establish lignin, which was previously a waste material, as a new valuable material in industrial manufacturing processes in the textile industry.

The research work was supported by the Baden-Württemberg Ministry of Food, Rural Areas and Consumer Protection as part of the Baden-Württemberg State Strategy for a Sustainable Bioeconomy.

Deakin University has signed a partnership agreement with Geelong-based company Xefco as part of its Recycling and Clean Energy Commercialisation Hub (REACH) to conduct new research to transform how our clothing, including jeans, get their colour.

Jeans are one of the most worn garments in the world, but they are also one of the least environmentally friendly, taking around 75 litres of water to dye just one pair.

Deakin’s work with Xefco is helping to explore if a waterless manufacturing process can replace the water intensive processes the clothing industry has used for hundreds of years. The new technology in development is called ‘Ausora’.

Associate Professor Alessandra Sutti, from Deakin’s Institute for Frontier Materials, said it was exciting to be on the commercialisation journey with Xefco, working with the company to discover what is possible and hopefully reduce the world’s fashion footprint.

“If successful, the Ausora technology, which colours fabrics without the need for large quantities of water, will put us a step closer to more efficient and sustainable clothing manufacturing,” Associate Professor Sutti said.

Xefco CEO Tom Hussey said the company’s new pilot plant, housed at Deakin in Geelong, will test different materials, including specialised fabrics such as waterproof items like outdoor jackets and jeans.

“This is the first stage of Xefco’s vision for the technology, with the REACH project focused on demonstrating the commercial viability of the technology at pilot scale and developing processes so it can be scaled up for commercial production,” Mr Hussey said.

“Together, Deakin and Xefco will push the limits of innovation and see what is possible.”
Xefco’s pilot plant is co-located with Deakin researchers at ManuFutures, the state-of-the-art advanced manufacturing hub at Deakin’s Waurn Ponds campus.

Founded in 2018 Xefco now employs 17 people and its products are already making a difference across the world. Its XReflex technology, which reduces consumption of insulation materials, is being used by some of the world’s leading apparel and fashion brands including The North Face.

Backed by a $50 million grant from the Australian Government’s inaugural Trailblazer Universities Program, with industry and university support taking the total project value to $380 million, REACH is facilitating the development of greener supply chains and accelerating business success as markets move from a throughput economy to a circular economy.

The Munich-based startup Sizekick launches a new technology and attracts well-known brands and retailers to reduce size-related returns in e-commerce. With the apparel technology know-how of the strategic partner and investor Hohenstein and the AI-based technology of Sizekick, more sustainable shopping in e-commerce with less CO₂ emissions will be made possible. The technology company is now celebrating a successful market entry: The newly developed sizing AI is now available for fashion e-commerce stores and is pleased about the first successfully acquired customers. The first customers to join the company include the Swiss multi-brand store for sustainable fashion, Rrrevolve, the premium outdoor brand Black Diamond from the USA, and Marc Cain, a global brand with German roots in the premium sector.

The solution promises to add value for both brands and consumers when shopping online by taking individual body measurements into account when recommending the right clothing size. The AI-based technology always offers two options to help arrive at the appropriate size recommendation. With BodyFinder, the AI suggests realistic body shapes to choose from. Alternatively, the video-based BodyScanner option enables a body scan via the smartphone's video function. All it takes to do this is to turn around in front of the phone's camera. Fashion brands and fashion retailers now have easy access to the new technology, as integration in the e-commerce store takes just a few minutes.

Hohenstein's expertise helped the Sizekick team to link accurate body measurements with the right product properties. Hohenstein is considered a leader in the field of size & fit and has been advising companies in the textile industry for over 75 years. The Sizekick fit analysis not only supports the brands' product teams, but is also used as direct input for Sizekick AI.

Climate change is causing temperatures to rise and storms to increase. Especially in inner cities, summers are becoming a burden for people. While densification makes use of existing infrastructure and avoids urban sprawl, it increases the amount of sealed surfaces. This has a negative impact on the environment and climate. Green facades bring more green into cities. If textile storage structures are used, they can even actively contribute to flood protection. The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research (DITF) have developed a corresponding "Living Wall".

The plants on the green facades are supplied with water and nutrients via an automatic irrigation system. The "Living Walls" operate largely autonomously. Sensory yarns detect the water and nutrient content. The effort for care and maintenance is low.

Innovative hydraulic textile structures regulate water flow. The rock wool plant substrate on which the plants grow has a large volume in a small space thanks to its structure. Depending on how heavy the precipitation is, the rainwater is stored in a textile structure and later used to irrigate the plants. In the event of heavy rainfall, the excess water is discharged into the sewage system with a time delay. In this way, the "Living Walls" developed at the DITF help to make efficient use of water as a resource in post-densified urban areas.

The research project also scientifically investigated the cooling performance of a green facade. Modern textile technology in the substrate promotes the "transpiration" of the plants. This creates evaporative cooling and lowers temperatures in the surrounding area.

The work of the Denkendorf research team also included a cost-benefit calculation and a life-cycle analysis. Based on the laboratory and outdoor studies, a "green value" was defined that can be used to evaluate and compare the effect of greening buildings as a whole.

Trevira CS is exhibiting for the first time at CSI Miami (Cruise Ship Interiors Design Expo Americas). Taking place on 6 – 7 June, 2023 at the Miami Beach Convention Center, CSI will bring together buyers and suppliers involved in cruise ship interiors, including interior designers, architects, outfitters, shipyards and suppliers.
 
On the Trevira CS stand, visitors can get an idea of the wide range of flame retardant fabrics suitable for use on board cruise ships. 53 fabrics from 20 Trevira CS customers will be on display that either have IMO certification and/or have been tested to the fire safety standards (FTP Code) required in the marine sector. Trevira CS fabrics are inherently flame retardant, meaning that their flame retardant properties cannot be washed out or lost through aging or use. This is due to the chemical structure of the polyester fiber: the flame retardant properties are firmly anchored in the fiber and cannot be altered by external influences. A surface-applied flame retardant finish is therefore not necessary.

In the marine sector, the demands placed on textiles are not only high in terms of fire protection, but also with regards to light resistance and durability. This is particularly true for textiles used in outdoor applications. These must be extremely robust, as they are exposed to moisture and sunlight. To meet these requirements, Trevira CS has launched a range of 30 new spun-dyed, UV-stable filament yarns. Besides color depth and durability, spun-dyed yarns offer another advantage: They are more sustainable because the fabrics made from them can be produced in a more environmentally friendly way than textiles that are dyed in one piece or consist of brightly colored yarns. In fabric production, a large share of resource consumption goes to the dyeing and finishing of fabrics as well as the use of chemicals and water. However, with spun-dyed yarns, these processing steps are unnecessary – the yarn immediately comes out of the spinneret in the desired color, reducing the products’ environmental impact.

The topic of sustainability is also taken up in other Trevira CS products. For example, Trevira CS fabrics are available in recycled versions. They consist of fiber and filament yarns obtained in different recycling processes. Filament yarns are produced using recycled PET bottles, they contain 50% post-consumer recycled material. Recycled fibers are obtained using an agglomeration plant and in further processing steps from residual pre-consumer waste from production. They consist of 100% recycled material (pre-consumer recycling). All flame retardant recycled Trevira® products are GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified.
Fabrics made from these yarns are marked with the Trevira CS eco trademark. The prerequisite for this is a recycled content of at least 50%. Among the fabrics presented at the Trevira CS trade fair stand are 8 fabrics bearing the Trevira CS eco brand.

The long-term goal in developing sustainable products is undoubtedly to enter a circular economy. For this new path, an innovative Trevira CS product development was launched, producing flame retardant fibers and filament yarns from chemically recycled raw material. In this case, the basic raw material for the chemical recycling was PET bottles, but essentially it could be most any other PET recyclables, such as packaging material or even textiles. Chemical recycling involves depolymerization, a sequence of chemical reactions in which the polymer chains are broken down again into their original components, i. e. the monomers. In a further processing step, impurities are removed. Before the polymerization process is initiated, a small amount of MEG (mono ethylene glycol) is added.

The same technology used to produce the original (virgin) raw material for Trevira CS is also used here. The flame retardant modification is added during polymerization. In this way, the flame retardant properties are indelibly anchored in the polymer.

By recycling valuable materials such as packaging material, waste can be avoided. The raw material obtained from the recycling process is comparable to the original material can be used again in high-quality products.

To ensure that our four-legged pets are looked after in terms of product safety, quality and durability of their cuddly blankets, cushions or favorite toys, the testing service provider Hohenstein has established its quality label Tested Pet Supplies. In May 2023, Markus Tiemann, Hohenstein Global Head of Retail, had the pleasure of handing over the first quality certificate of its kind to Bernd Brunssen, Head of Quality Assurance at Carstensen Import Export Handelsgesellschaft mbH, located near Hamburg.

The bar for quality products is set high at the globally networked importer and distributor, and the company accordingly commissioned product-testing with Hohenstein testing laboratory from its existing range of dog cushions, toys for dogs and cats, pet transport boxes and food balls for dogs and cats.

The label is designed for the entire range in pet supplies, from chew toys to pet beds, with special attention to the high requirements for textiles. It provides consumers with clear product information on product safety, quality and durability, and also offers pets and their owners security against unwanted residues of chemical substances. Markus Tiemann adds, "To ensure that our four-legged darlings feel completely at ease, we can, depending on the intended use also include additional tests for example chew resistance, scratch resistance, outdoor suitability, water repellency, waterproofness or air permeability and include these in the claim, alongside standard tests."

Performance sportswear brand FIRE+ICE by BOGNER announces an exclusive collaboration with the multi-sport athlete, Ester Ledecka. This 28-year-old made history during the 2018 Pyeongchang Winter Games as the first athlete to win Olympic gold medals in two distinct sports in the same year. Ester has followed her career with winning 24 World Cup races in skiing and snowboarding combined and defending her Olympic gold in snowboarding in 2022.

Ester's athletic spirit runs in the family, with her grandfather being an ice hockey world champion and Olympian. The Czech-born athlete took up skiing at the age of two and added snowboarding to her repertoire just three years later. On top of her performance on snow, she embraces her passion for windsurfing during the summer months.

Her personality and drive for success perfectly align with FIRE+ICE's commitment to outstanding performance, innovation, and adventure. This stylish collaboration blends high-performance Olympic sport with trendy urban performance wear.

"FIRE+ICE by BOGNER is my go-to outfitter for every occasion. In winter, I'm well protected from wind, cold and wet, and in warmer seasons, I'm fashionably and functionally geared up for surfing. The brand ideally reflects my lifestyle, and I'm excited about the upcoming joint projects", says Ester.

adidas TERREX announces a multi-season collaboration with National Geographic, consisting of high-performance outdoor wear. The inaugural collection is built to celebrate the role of photography in the culture of outdoor sport - as well-equipped hikers turn their ability to explore more places, and spirit of adventure, into stunning content.

To celebrate this relationship, designers at adidas TERREX combed the National Geographic photography archives for stunning stills of some of the most remote yet moving locations on earth, integrated in unique all over prints in a bold new hiking collection. All pieces are unified by National Geographic’s iconic yellow icon.

Places celebrated in the collection include a snow-covered sandstone monocline in Comb Ridge, Utah, a 120-mile-long, north to south stretch that defines the State’s red rock landscape, as well as textured portraits of shale, - captured on the coast of Norway’s northernmost county - highlighting the sedimentary rock’s distinctive formations.

The 51-piece collection includes women’s, men’s, and gender-neutral offerings – all built to equip the wearer in multi-terrain environments:

• A part of the collection is the RAIN.RDY Jacket; a 2.5L waterproof and seam-sealed outer garment built to facilitate epic adventures. The men’s jacket features a bold print of the shell formations in the Porsanger Peninsula, Norway, while the women’s is inspired by stills of White Sands National Park in New Mexico.
• A long sleeve shirt is finished with the bold National Geographic yellow icon and reflective details.
• The TERREX Swift R3 GORE-TEX Hiking shoes offer the peak combination of a lightweight construction and cushioning as seen in trail running shoes with the stability of a hiking boot. Finished in a print inspired by a stunning aerial shot of Earth, the hiking shoes come with a GORE-TEX lining and membrane seal so water is kept out, and a Continental™ Rubber outsole for optimal grip in wet or dry conditions.
• The WIND.RDY: GET SHELTERED Jacket, with wind-resistant technology and a water repellent ripstop fabric, allows explorers to feel protected and confident in many weather conditions. The men’s and women’s versions come with bold prints inspired by photography including that of sandstone and snow at Comb Ridge, Utah. Smart design features including a bungee-cord enabled adjustable hem, a lightweight fabric and reflective details. Additionally, it features a bold new lenticular logo design that alternates between Terrex and National Geographic from different perspectives – and is made in part with recycled materials.

Am 11. Mai eröffnet der Outdoor-Ausrüster Globetrotter seinen neuen Re:Think-Store in der Bonner Weststadt. Das nachhaltige Konzept: Ein großer Teil der Einrichtung des Vormieters Conrad Electronic wurde übernommen und weitergenutzt. Darüber hinaus wird die neue Filiale zahlreiche nachhaltige Angebote, wie eine eigene Reparaturwerkstatt und einen 2nd Hand An- und Verkauf, bieten.

Das Besondere am Konzept: Große Teile des vom Vormieter vorhandenen Inventars wurde weiter-genutzt und teilweise zu etwas völlig Neuem umgewandelt – wie etwa einer großen Bären-Skulptur aus Abfall oder einer Teststrecke für Wanderschuhe, in die nach dem Patchwork-Prinzip alte Materialien verbaut wurden. Ergänzend wurde weiteres, gebrauchtes Inventar aus anderen Globetrotter-Filialen weiterverwendet. Wie genau diese umgewidmet wurden, wird anhand von Schautafeln und Ausstel¬lungsstücken im Store erläutert.

„Der Re:Think Store ist eines der spannendsten Experimente, das wir bei Globetrotter je gewagt haben. Wir wollten den Store so nachhaltig wie möglich gestalten – und nichts ist nachhaltiger, als Materialien zu nutzen, die bereits da sind,“ so Globetrotter CEO Andreas Vogler. „Die große Herausforderung bei diesem Projekt bestand darin, aus einem Elektronikmarkt einen Globetrotter Store machen.“

Entwickelt und umgesetzt wurde das innovative Store-Konzept von dan pearlman und loom shopex¬pansion. „Nachhaltige Ladenbau-Projekte sind Stand heute noch sehr herausfordernd, da innovative Ansätze in einer eher weniger nachhaltigen Branche umgesetzt werden müssen, in der aber gerade sehr viel im Umbruch ist. Der Re:Think-Store ist ein tolles Beispiel, wie die Wieder- und Weiterverwendung von Bestand und Material kreativ in einem nachhaltigen Store-Konzept umgesetzt werden kann. Solche wegweisenden Innovationen sind heute der Ladenbau-Standard von morgen,“ so
Eva Schall, Leiterin des Bereichs Nachhaltigkeit bei loom.

Vergrößerter Store mit erweitertem Angebot
Auf einer Fläche von 2.150m² bietet die neue Filiale auf zwei Etagen deutlich mehr Fläche als die alten Räumlichkeiten in der Vorgebirgsstraße. Damit bieten sie auch mehr Raum für altbekannte Angebote, wie Outlet- und Second Hand, aber auch für neues, wie etwa Shop-in-Shop Flächen der Outdoor-Marken Fjällräven, Rab, Icebreaker und Frilufts. Einen zentralen Anlaufpunkt wird die neue, hauseigene Werkstatt bieten: Hier können Ausrüstungsstücke direkt vor Ort repariert und gepflegt werden. Die sogenannte Clubhütte stellt das Herzstück des Stores dar: Hier kommt die lokale Outdoor-Community bei Workshops und Vorträgen zusammen.

In der neuen, vergrößerten Filiale wird Globetrotter eine Vielzahl neuer Arbeitsstellen schaffen – so¬wohl in Voll- als auch in Teilzeit.

From March 15-16, 2023, the spring edition of PERFORMANCE DAYS kicked off on the fairgrounds of Messe München. With around 2,685 visitors, the event organizers were particularly pleased with numbers up on the previous winter fair. High attendances were also evident at the Expert Talks on both days, which provided information on the latest color and fabric trends, news on developments in sustainability and new technologies from fiber manufacturers. The focal points of the show were marked by the PERFORMANCE FORUM, which showcased the fabric highlights for the spring/summer 2025 season as well as the two PERFORMANCE AWARD and ECO PERFORMANCE AWARD winners.

After the kick-off event in Munich in March, the industry now looks forward to the follow-up fairs in Portland from April 4-5, 2023 and in Shanghai, April 10-11, 2023.

New concept starting October 2023: Premiere for highlighted focus on footwear
As part of the upcoming PERFORMANCE DAYS, which will once again take place at the Messe München exhibition center on October 4-5, 2023, the event organizers will no longer focus explicitly on sustainable functional textiles and accessories, but will also focus on the footwear market.

To support the integration of the footwear market into the trade fair events in Munich, Portland, New York and Shanghai, the organizers have brought on board two industry specialists, Nina Conrad and Rucky Zambrano.

Nina Conrad has been active as a sustainability consultant in the textile and leather industry for many years, specializing in traceable and local supply chains. Her core business is the production of leather and leather goods derived from animals raised on certified organic farms. She is also a founding partner of the Sustainable Leather Foundation and co-founder of the Fibershed subsiduary DACH.

Rucky Zambrano is a industrial designer and expert. When he got to know Vibram in 1992, he shifted his career to footwear for reasons of passion. For 13 years now, Zambrana and Vibram have been a driving force in the footwear market and made the leap from performance to fashion, as witnessed with the Merrell Chameleon, the Prada Luna Rossa boat shoe sole or the latest Vibram FiveFingers models. He is currently responsible for footwear for the Finnish children’s outdoor brand Reima.