From the Sector

With China easing its pandemic restrictions, foreign exhibitors and buyers can look forward to quarantine-free travel when participating at this year’s industry showcase in Shanghai. The technical textile and nonwovens fair is scheduled to take place from 19 – 21 September 2023 at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre, amid positive market forecasts for both sectors. The organisers are anticipating a strong showing and the conclusion of an inconsistent period for in-person textile business.

“The industry has demonstrated incredible patience and resilience over the course of the pandemic,” said Ms Wilmet Shea, General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd. “With both markets growing and China opening its borders, we are excited at the prospect of providing participants with an international, business-friendly platform and expect to welcome a healthy number of exhibitors later this year.”

The global technical textile and nonwovens markets are both set to perform strongly over the next few years. According to Grand View Research, the technical textile market is forecast to expand at a CAGR of 4.7% from 2022 to 2030^[1]. The nonwoven fabrics market is anticipated to display an even stronger CAGR of 5.6% during the same period^[2], with Asia-Pacific to maintain its position as the biggest regional market.

As one of Asia’s leading trade fairs for the abovementioned sectors, Cinte Techtextil China is the preferred platform for multiple industry players. Speaking at the previous edition in 2021, Mr Seven Shen, Sales Manager at Libero Trading (Shanghai) Co Ltd, China, said: “We have been exhibiting at this fair for years, and know we will meet our target customers at every edition. The buyers here are all highly specialised.”

During his interview at the same edition, Mr Eric Ni, Senior Manager, China Supply Chain Marketing for Cotton Council International, USA, commented: “We hope to use this platform to meet more companies and brands in the nonwovens industry who are interested in US cotton, and to meet up with old friends to discuss the current situation and industry trends. The fair’s buyers are quality, and we have found some new potential clients at this edition.”

Many buyers at the previous edition also gave positive appraisals. “As a professional trade fair for technical textile and nonwoven products, Cinte Techtextil China is not only a platform to gather qualified industry players, but also the best place to showcase new products and innovations,” said Mr Lin Bin, Technical Director at Zhejiang Xinna Medical Device Technology Co Ltd, China. “Specific and high quality products enhance sourcing efficiency for buyers, and exposure to new trends and market developments ensures my company visits here regularly.”

The fair’s product categories cover 12 application areas, which comprehensively span a full range of potential uses in modern technical textiles and nonwovens. These categories also cover the entire industry, from upstream technology and raw materials providers to finished fabrics, chemicals and other solutions. This scope of product groups and application areas ensures that the fair is an effective business platform for the entire industry.

^[1] “Technical Textile Market Size, Share & Trends Analysis Report 2022-2030”, 2022, Grand View Research, https://bit.ly/3IAxQIK, (Retrieved: January 2023)
^[2] “Nonwoven Fabrics Market Size”, 7 September 2022, GlobeNewswire, https://bit.ly/3CxPE3u, (Retrieved: January 2023)

Mit ihren Textilveranstaltungen engagiert sich die Messe Frankfurt weltweit für die Sichtbarkeit der Nachhaltigen Entwicklungsziele. Dabei arbeitet sie zusammen mit dem Conscious Fashion and Lifestyle Network und dem UN Office for Partnerships. Am 2. Juni kam das internationale Netzwerk am Sitz der Vereinten Nationen zur ersten Jahrestagung zusammen.

Bereits seit mehr als 15 Jahren macht die Messe Frankfurt auf ihren weltweiten Textilveranstaltungen unter dem Dach des Texpertise Network auf das Thema Nachhaltigkeit aufmerksam, gibt spezielle Messe-Guides heraus, initiiert Talkrunden, bietet geführte Touren zu Aussteller*innen mit entsprechendem Portfolio, erstellt Materialgallerien mit nachhaltigen Textilinnovationen und veranstaltet eigene Events, wie etwa die Neonyt, ausschließlich zu nachhaltiger Mode. Seit 2019 arbeitet die Messe Frankfurt mit dem Conscious Fashion and Lifestyle Network und dem UN Office for Partnerships zusammen, um zusätzlich die Nachhaltigen Entwicklungsziele (SDGs) auf ihren weltweiten Textilveranstaltungen bekannt zu machen und so einen Beitrag zu deren Erreichung in der Mode- und Textilindustrie zu leisten. Am 2. Juni kam das internationale Netzwerk aus Vertreter*innen der Mode- und Lifestyle-Branche, Medien, Regierungen und UN-Institutionen zu seiner ersten Jahrestagung am Hauptsitz der Vereinten Nationen in New York zusammen – mit dabei das Texpertise Network der Messe Frankfurt.
 
In Anbetracht der enormen Auswirkungen des Mode- und Lifestyle-Sektors auf Mensch und Umwelt gab das Jahrestreffen des Conscious Fashion and Lifestyle Network einen Überblick darüber, wie die Plattform ein transparentes, umfassendes und transformatives Engagement globaler Stakeholder fördert, um dringende Maßnahmen für Nachhaltigkeit voranzutreiben. Hauptziel des Netzwerks ist es, vorhandenes Fachwissen, Innovation, Technologie und Ressourcen für eine nachhaltige und ganzheitliche Erholung nach COVID-19 zu mobilisieren, wobei die Ziele für nachhaltige Entwicklung als Leitrahmen dienen.
 
In einer gemeinsamen Paneldiskussion sprachen Olaf Schmidt, Vice President Textiles & Textile Technologies bei der Messe Frankfurt, Sara Kozlowski, Vice President Education and Sustainability Initiatives beim Council of Fashion Designers of America, Sergio Fernández de Córdova, Vorsitzender der PVBLIC Foundation und Roberta Marcenaro, CEO der Strategieberatung IMARK und Strategin bei der POLIMODA über die Bedeutung von Partnerschaften und Zusammenarbeit bei der Erreichung der Nachhaltigen Entwicklungsziele. Moderiert wurde die Diskussion von Lucie Brigham, Chief of Office des United Nations Office for Partnerships und Mitgründerin des Conscious Fashion and Lifestyle Networks.

„Die Textilindustrie ist eine Branche mit starken Gegensätzen. Man findet hier sowohl traditionelle Handwerkskunst als auch Hightech mit vollständig digitalisierten und automatisierten Fertigungsprozessen. Gleichzeitig sind die Lieferketten so komplex und global vernetzt wie in kaum einer anderen Branche. Nachhaltigkeit kann nur im engen Zusammenspiel der richtigen Partner*innen erreicht werden“, so Olaf Schmidt während der Diskussion. „Als Messeveranstalter machen wir selbst die Textilindustrie zwar nicht unmittelbar nachhaltiger. Unsere zentralen Aufgaben im Texpertise Network der Messe Frankfurt sind jedoch andere: Wir bieten Plattformen zum Netzwerken und bringen auf weltweit rund 60 Textilveranstaltungen die richtigen Partner*innen zusammen. Wir schaffen Sichtbarkeit, indem wir der Branche eine Bühne bieten, um ihr Nachhaltigkeitsengagement ins Blickfeld zu rücken. Wir bieten Bildung und Wissenstransfer auf zahlreichen Konferenz- und Talkformaten rund um das Thema Nachhaltigkeit. Und wir gehen mit gutem Beispiel voran. Mit unseren weltweiten Aktionen zu den SDGs haben wir bislang schätzungsweise rund 9.200 Aussteller*innen und 195.500 Besucher*innen erreicht – auch in Zeiten der Pandemie.“

Gemeinsam mit der Messe Frankfurt waren Vertreter*innen der Textil- und Modeunternehmen Hugo Boss, Heiq, Ocean Safe, Lectra, Madewell und des KTC Korea Textile Center vor Ort. Weitere Sprecher*innen auf der Veranstaltung waren zudem Arch and Hook, Catcher in the Style, Calik Denim, DRESSX, Fashion Impact Fund, Fashion Revolution, Jakarta Fashion Week, Lenzing, Lycra, nft now, People Tree, Remake, Saheli Women, Sourcing Journal, The Business of Fashion, Timberland, Tech Crunch, Textile Exchange, Transformers Foundation, The Canvas Global, Vogue, WWD sowie Designer*innen wie Anyango Mpinga, Gabriela Hearst, Patrick McDowell und Shivam Punjya.
 
Die nächsten Gelegenheiten, sich umfassend zur textilen Wertschöpfungskette einschließlich innovativer textiler Materialien, Herstellungsverfahren sowie Einrichtungs- und Objekttextilien und nachhaltiger Mode zu informieren, bieten die internationalen Leitmessen Techtextil, Texprocess und das Heimtextil Summer Special vom 21. bis 24. Juni 2022 sowie die erste DtoC-Ausgabe der Neonyt, das Neonyt Lab, vom 24. bis 26. Juni 2022 in Frankfurt.

Looking back, 2021 was a positive year for the Albstadt-based circular knitting machine and braiding machine manufacturer Mayer & Cie. After two tough years, sales exceeded Euro 100 million again last year, and the outlook for this year is promising, with production working at long-term full capacity in the circular knitting machine sector.

In order to maintain its market edge Mayer & Cie. continues to rely on digitisation of both its processes and its products. Substantial investment at its headquarters location, especially in machinery, is on the Mayer & Cie. agenda for 2022. In the years ahead a range of production machinery – lathes, gear cutting and grinding machines – is to be replaced at a scheduled cost running into low double-digit millions. Last year saw an investment in a robot-controlled laser hardening system for heat-treating machine components. The company passes an energy upgrade milestone these days with launching its new CHP cogeneration units.  
 
“Compared with 2020, our Group sales were up by about 40 per cent in 2021,” said Mayer & Cie. Managing Director Benjamin Mayer. After two difficult years in 2019 and 2020 the circular knitting machine manufacturer was able last year to restore sales to a stable level of about 103 million Euro. And it could have achieved an even better result. “Supply chain problems hampered production perceptibly,” the company’s managing director said. “In view of the order situation up to five per cent more might have been possible.” The Albstadt textile machinery manufacturer’s order position has stayed at a sound, high level since the fourth quarter of 2020, and orders in hand will already keep the circular knitting machine division busy until the end of the year, with orders coming in from all over the world, but especially, and with no change, from the company’s core markets Turkey, China and India.

The Management views with concern, however, the conflict in the Ukraine, which at first glance may not affect the sales market directly but might lead to general purchasing restraint in the capital goods sector that like the trade war between the United States and China, which began in 2018, would also affect Mayer & Cie. In addition, effects of the conflict such as high energy prices and interruptions in material supplies and logistics pose a genuine challenge in the further course of the year.

In the braiding machine division, the order position recovered in 2021. Sales of new machines and, especially, spare parts exceeded the 2020 figures significantly. Mayer & Cie. has once more won an award for its in-house and external digitisation measures as one of the most innovative German SMEs. The textile machinery manufacturer won a 2022 Top 100 award for its innovative processes in particular.

Premium Group, important trade fair organiser in the German fashion industry and biggest player for advanced contemporary fashion in Europe, is returning to the capital and, in July 2022, is set to present a completely new live event concept around the Berlin Radio Tower and summer garden.
 
Interactive live event concept for B2B and D2C and redefines the future of fashion fairs
After decades of everything being the same, the constantly changing market environment forces brands, retailers, consumers and trade fair organisers alike to continuously develop and reposition themselves. Two years after the start of the pandemic, the Berlin-based company is now reacting with a surprising step: Anita Tillmann, Jörg Arntz and the team are bringing their passion for people, fashion, innovation and entertainment back home and setting new standards for live fashion events.
 
The creators of PREMIUM, SEEK, FASHIONTECH and THE GROUND are redesigning the sustainability of future-proof fashion fairs with the commitment of the Berlin government, and launching a completely new event concept in which the B2B and D2C sectors merge. In the new Premium Group cosmos, brands can present themselves emotionally and interactively to retailers and consumers. All realities are represented: the new kids in the industry, such as D2C brands, e-com and influencers, are given their place in the Premium Group cosmos in the form of the new fashion festival THE GROUND. But also long-standing partners of established brands and representatives from traditional stationary retail will profit from further developed B2B spaces.

Taking into account the different needs of all visitors, the events will take place from Thursday to Saturday for the first time: from 7 to 9 July 2022.
 
Classic trade fair formats are no longer up to date
'Classic trade fair formats are no longer up to date', sums up Anita Tillmann, Managing Partner of the Premium Group. 'We have to reinvent ourselves and look to the future – to a new stage in the life of the fashion industry post pandemic, which has changed everything. Digitisation, climate change, pandemic, changing values, new industry cycles and new players, as well as topics around gender equality, diversity, metaverse, gaming and NFTs, are just a few areas we are dealing with. We aim to set new standards for the future of trade events and merge B2B and D2C with our new event concept.'
 
Move to Frankfurt am Main fell victim to the coronavirus
The planned kick-off of the Premium Group Events in Frankfurt am Main could not take place because of the coronavirus, and the plan to establish the events at the new location has fallen victim to the pandemic.
 
'It's a shame that the move to Frankfurt didn't work out', says Jörg Arntz, Managing Director of the Premium Group. 'We all tried very hard and did our best. As an entrepreneur, you always have to remain capable of acting and questioning decisions that have been made. In order to do justice to our customers and the market environment, we have decided – after intensive discussions with the city of Berlin – to hold our events in our home city again. We are Berliners at heart and are confident that the new government will anchor Berlin as Europe's creative metropolis in a sustainable and economic way.'

New government brings Premium Group power back to Berlin
“Berlin is THE metropolis for the cultural and creative industries and Europe's largest start-up scene. As the new state government, we are committed to an economically strong Berlin. Trade fairs and events are an important economic factor and a centre of attraction for Berliners and guests from all over the world. We are therefore delighted that we have succeeded in bringing the events of the Premium Group back home”, says Franziska Giffey, Mayor of Berlin.
 
“The Premium Group events strengthen Berlin as a fashion and trade fair location, attract tens of thousands of trade visitors and fashion enthusiasts, create additional economic effects in hotels, gastronomy, retail and the service industry, multiply the global appeal of the city as a location and will open the summer of creativity brilliantly in July. The fact that the fair organiser is returning to its home venue with a new concept is a special opportunity for Berlin and will give the city an additional boost. Opening up the events to end consumers ideally rounds off the trade fair concept. With the Premium Group, Berlin will sustainably strengthen the core themes of fashion and digital transformation”, says Stephan Schwarz, Senator for Economics, Energy and Operations.

• BLUEZONE & KEYHOUSE move forward to 3 - 4 May 2022

The team of the Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH has dedicated the last weeks to the finalisation of the upcoming BLUEZONE and MUNICH FABRIC START: the new measures for safe events have been implemented; the organisers are ready to welcome the industry In Munich in just a few weeks.

And the current status is impressive: more than 600 suppliers from 33 countries are registered for
MUNICH FABRIC START from which some 90 international denim mills are ready to show at BLUEZONE. In such extraordinary times, the enormous support from the industry is a milestone and anything but a matter of course.

At the same time, the ongoing dynamic situation, the ever-increasing demands on events and the enormous
planning uncertainty make the next necessary steps more difficult. With the rapidly increasing infection
rates of the Omicron variant across Europe and especially in some neighbouring countries that are
already in a new lockdown, the organisers do face very complex challenges in many respects.

After the extensive consideration of the overall situation with an extremely serious situation
in many places, the organisers feel obliged to cancel MUNICH FABRIC START Spring.Summer 23
from 25 - 27 January 2022.

With regards to BLUEZONE and KEYHOUSE, an alternative scenario will be realised:
both formats will skip the January show and move forward to 3 – 4 May 2022 as a dedicated
denim and innovation show on the Zenith grounds in Munich.

The decisive factors for this major decision are various realistic scenarios which need to be considered to occur within the coming weeks: a new lockdown in Germany with a possible event ban imposed at very short notice, further restrictions on events and additional travel restrictions.

Fibre Extrusion Technology of Leeds, UK has delivered nine meltspinning systems to clients in the biomedical sector since the onset of the Covid-19 pandemic, with a similar number currently on order for 2021/22. This way FET could confirm the position as an acknowledged world leader in meltspinning equipment for the production of precursor materials used in medical devices and as a default supplier for absorbable suture production systems, with orders virtually doubling year on year.

Recent installations include a multi-functional system that can produce both multifilament and monofilament pre-cursor fibres, but nonwoven systems have been particularly prominent, driven by the burgeoning demand for FFP3 masks, gowns and other medical products required during the pandemic. These have been sold to medical device manufacturing companies across the globe, including the Far East, USA and Europe. Research organisations have also invested in FET systems for biomedical applications, the most recent being the University of Leeds in a laboratory scale Spunbond system.

The FET in-house Process Development Laboratory and ongoing collaboration with biomaterial polymer suppliers has helped to optimise the biomedical melt spinning technology. The Laboratory is at the disposal of customers for all aspects of confidential testing and evaluation. To further increase this competitive edge, FET will be opening a new Process Development Laboratory and Visitor Centre in early 2022.

• Parade Example for physical Trade Shows

A whole year without physical trade fairs, long months without personal exchange: last week the physical International Textile Trade Show MUNICH FABRIC START and the International Denim Trade Show BLUEZONE took place for the textile industry in Munich. The team at Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH is bringing a bit of normality back to the industry, but also to event management. Thanks to detailed, Covid-19 compliant fair formats, the organisers show that trade fairs are possible and can be successfully implemented with the appropriate measures.

More than 600 international suppliers presented their new collections and developments for Autumn.Winter 22/23 in around 1000 collections in the Fabrics, Additionals, Design Studios, Sourcing, ReSource and Sustainable Innovations areas at MUNICH FABRIC START as well as denim, sportswear and KEYHOUSE at BLUEZONE.

A winning fusion of BLUEZONE & KEYHOUSE well-attended events

Under the motto "BACK TO THE FUTURE", BLUEZONE offered a way back to the tactile experience of textiles and the reunion of the denim community. In addition to international denim weavers and manufacturers, visitors to the Zenith Hall also saw a qualitative selection of KEYHOUSE exhibitors who presented their futuristic innovations for the fashion industry.

Positive visitor & exhibitor echo despite Covid-19 measures

In keeping with the season's title "RISE", the visitors were greeted by inspiring, colourful trend forums with unique highlights for Autumn.Winter 22/23 collection development. In the halls, the industry was able to discover a trade show with the well-known and proven pre-pandemic quality with manufacturers and suppliers presenting in all 8 areas. Non-European suppliers were represented by agencies and offered well-attended show in show concepts.

The newly formed ReSOURCE x SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS Area also drew in the crowds. In a modern atmosphere, information was shared on sourcing sustainable textiles and additionals as well as innovative concepts. Another highlight was the launch of FABRIC.iD, the innovative process for the complete digitisation of fabrics to greater serve the industry's digital future.

• Digital Pioneer Awards ceremony at the digitalCHURCH
• ITA Academy GmbH was honoured to receive the Digital Pioneer Award at the Digital Summit Event in Aachen on June 09, 2021.

The Digital Pioneer Award is given to companies that drive digitalisation with digital business models, processes or digital products. ITA Academy GmbH was honoured with the Digital Capability Center (DCC) Aachen and its support of companies in their digital transformation.

Using the latest didactic methods, sophisticated solution concepts and state-of-the-art technologies, the DCC Aachen supports people in keeping up with the digital future and becoming pioneers in digital transformation. In order to make innovative solutions such as AI and digital assistance systems tangible, the ITA Academy founded the Digital Capability Center (DCC) Aachen together with McKinsey & Company in 2017. The DCC is a model factory 4.0 in which digital applications are demonstrated and taught using the example of a realistic factory. The DCC thus offers a learning environment for companies in which participants are supported in building up competencies in the field of digital transformation in the form of practical work-shops.

The digital pioneers are to be publicised as best-practice examples in order to sensitize regional SMEs to the topic of digitisation. Around the award of the digital pioneers, the digitalHUB Aachen e.V. rolls out effective marketing activities. The pioneers achieve high visibility through the various planned campaigns and advertising opportunities.

U.S. Senators Rob Portman (R-OH) and Gary Peters (D-MI), Ranking Member and Chairman of the Senate Homeland Security and Governmental Affairs Committee, applauded the Senate Homeland Security and Governmental Affairs Committee for passing their bipartisan legislation that will strengthen efforts to onshore production of personal protective equipment (PPE) in the United States by requiring federal agencies to issue long-term contracts for American-made PPE. Reshoring production will ensure American workers, health care professionals, and more have the PPE they need as the economy continues to reopen. Domestic production of PPE supplies also will create American manufacturing jobs and ensure that America is better prepared for the next pandemic.

Contact restrictions, home office and altered daily lives – our lives in 2020 were radically changed. This was also the case for various sectors of the economy, including the textile and clothing industry. However, with crisis come opportunities and stimuli for change. Under the motto “Still Physical”, manufacturers recount their personal success stories in 2020 – the industry can look forward to a selection of sustainable materials curated exclusively by the PERFORMANCE FORUM Jury. Areas of focus: natural fibers that highlight wellbeing aspects, plant-based materials that make us strong and excite on an emotional level, bio-nylons and bio-based finishings that rethink function. “Still Physical – Your Success Story of 2020” will be on display online as the first of its kind within a trade fair week from 17 to 21 May 2020.

Transformation: Technology first?
The pandemic has forced us into new, primarily digital forms of living and working. Our daily lives are characterised by home offices, home schooling and online meetings. The desire for real, physically perceptible experiences has grown incessantly within the last year. In the same context, people nowadays are strongly driven by technological progress – yet how far can we allow technological change to go and how do we wish to live in the future? Long before the pandemic, the trend towards self-monitoring and control of important bodily functions developed. The sports industry developed tools to measure levels of performance and monitor bodily functions with the goal of enhancing performance. Self-optimisation, body shaping and health promotion have become standard nowadays. Staying healthy and keeping fit are now social imperatives in our performance-oriented society. The pandemic has made us rethink, made us pause – with sustainable function still in focus, yet function needs to be rethought for the future, distancing ourselves from mere performance enhancement, and embracing clothing that facilitates people in feeling good.

Touch & Feel
In a visual, digital world, one sense has been forgotten: the sense of touch. Materials trigger completely different reactions, consciously or unconsciously. Moreover, the surface texture is also decisive in the functionality of a fabric, lending it its unique characteristics. In times of contact restrictions and lockdown, there is a need for a space for emotions, for regeneration and physical wellbeing. This is also reflected in the desire for appropriate apparel that leaves a pleasant sensation on the skin. Lightweight, warm and of a softer nature, plant-based fibers fulfil the desire for comfort and promote wellbeing.

We are physical – we are nature
How will we shape and adapt the post-pandemic textile and apparel industry? The Corona crisis once again reminds us of our existential bond with the natural world. While humanity fights against the spread of a deadly virus with social isolation, one thing is doing well: our planet. It is recovering from all the exhaust gases that are released into the air daily by cars and factories. There is a shift in focus towards taking time out in nature, whether in the form of a morning run, a mountain hike or a yoga session on the grass.

Your success story of 2020
What has touched them? Which experiences have shaped their latest innovations? Does the crisis also present opportunities? The chance for something new, for a rethink, on an even more sustainable, more ecological path? Which highlights, which stories are worth communicating and where did the focus lie in 2020? Various material manufacturers already started to focus on sustainability and the cautious use of resources some time ago. Innovations in the areas of materials and in processing methods are the driving forces of the development towards more sustainability. However, we need to realign all processes and structures in our supply and production chains and adapt them to the needs of a resource-conserving, responsible industry. A pioneering example of such alignment was the decision of PERFORMANCE DAYS to only present sustainable materials at the PERFORMANCE FORUM from the November 2019 trade fair event onwards. Additionally, the setting-up of the new digital sourcing platform “THE LOOP” shows how technology can be implemented aside from material and processing innovations in such a way that our procedures and structures can be adapted to difficult conditions.

Informative & up-to-date: the digital trade fair week from 17 to 21 May 2021
As usual, the highlighted fabrics from the Focus Topic “Still Physical”, which the exhibitors have defined as their personal success stories, will be available shortly on the PERFORMANCE DAYS website highlighting all details and facets.