From the Sector

Pili, a French pioneer in biobased dyes and pigments, partners with Orta, the Turkish denim mill and Citizens of Humanity, a California-based high-end denim brand known for its commitment to quality and sustainability.

They are beginning a transformative shift in the denim industry with the commercial launch of the first products dyed with Pili’s biobased indigo. The first products will debut in January in the Spring 2025 collections of Citizens of Humanity and AGOLDE.

A New Ecological Standard for the Denim Industry
In 2024, Pili achieved a major milestone by producing its first tons of biobased indigo, enabling the creation of sustainable denim articles, a turning point in the company's efforts to decarbonize the textile industry especially denim.

Pili has developed unique processes combining fermentation and organic chemistry to offer a high-performance, eco-friendly alternative to petrochemical dyes. Their ecological alternative significantly reduces the use of toxic chemicals and fossil resources, while aiming to cut CO2 emissions up to 50%. It meets the same performance as petrochemical indigo while seamlessly integrating into existing dyeing processes without requiring additional investment in commercial dyeing equipment.

Pili’s colors development is based on standardized Life Cycle Assessments (LCAs), ensuring a rigorous process to measure and minimize their environmental impact.

A Partnership Driving Sustainable Transformation in the Industry
Fiber and dye are the two main components of denim products and also the ones with the greatest impact on their production. The partnership between Citizens of Humanity, Pili, and Orta establishes one of the highest ecological standards in the market with the use of regenerative cotton and biobased indigo.

Pili biobased indigo will make its debut in Citizens of Humanity and AGOLDE’s Spring 2025 collections. This long-term partnership between Citizens of Humanity, Orta, and Pili will continue to expand in future collections. The launch will be exclusive on NET-A-PORTER on January 6, 2025, before being extended to agolde.com, citizensofhumanity.com, and other global retailers.

A Key Step Towards the Decarbonization of the Color Industry
Building on this first success, Pili is accelerating the development of coloring solutions for various industrial applications, particularly in the inks, paints, and polymers sectors. The aim is to decarbonize everyday products using high-performance biobased pigments, with the first applicative tests set to begin this year. Pili continues its mission to decarbonize the color industry, paving the way for a sustainable revolution.

The upcoming conference on 12-13 March 2025 in Cologne, Germany, will pave pathways to a sustainable textile industry.

Over the past few weeks, the Conference Advisory Board, and the experts from the nova-Institute, have thoroughly reviewed and evaluated over 40 submitted abstracts. The selected external experts bring new insights and perspectives from the pulp, fibre and further developing industries, promising to spark and deepen discussions at the event. Their expertise across the entire fibre value chain will enrich the topics covered and ensure a dynamic and insightful exchange of ideas. The presentations will provide a platform for the discussion at the conference after each session, and the Advisory Board members will foster a lively debate to drive innovation industry-wide.

Biosynthetics on the rise
Besides cellulose fibres, bio-based polymer fibres ("biosynthetics") are an excellent option to reduce fossil fibres in textiles. Biosynthetics offer a powerful alternative to traditional synthetic fibres, bringing both performance and technical properties that make them drop-in replacements. Derived wholly or partially from natural, renewable sources like lactic acids, sugar beet, sugarcane or wood, biosynthetics represent a bio-based option compared to fossil-based counterparts. In a special session “Biosynthetics - Replacing Traditional Synthetic Fibres”, experts will explore the latest advances, challenges and opportunities in the field. Discussing innovative approaches like biosynthetics is essential to drive sustainable transformation within the fashion and textile industries.

Fibre-to-Fibre Recycling: A Path to a Sustainable Textile Industry
The textile industry is at a crucial crossroad. The need for sustainable solutions to meet the EU's ambitious climate change targets is becoming increasingly urgent. Fibre-to-fibre recycling, which transforms discarded textiles into new, virgin fibres, holds great promise for reducing waste and resource consumption and helps to close the loop in textile production. While Europe has made progress in this area, challenges remain – in particular the management of mixed fibre textiles and the scaling up of recycling technologies. As new approaches are needed to tackle climate change, one session of the conference will focus on fibre-to-fibre recycling from textiles, exploring the latest innovations and technological advances, as well as the opportunities and barriers that need to be addressed to move the industry towards a circular, sustainable future.

Fibre Microplastic Formation versus Marine Biodegradability
The environmental impact of textiles extends far beyond landfill, with microplastics from synthetic fibres becoming a growing concern in marine ecosystems. A session at the conference will focus on the complex relationship between microplastic formation and marine biodegradability. While synthetic fibres shed microplastics during washing, these tiny particles, known as microfibres accumulate in the oceans and pose a serious threat to marine life. This session will explore the factors that influence fibre degradation in the marine environment and examine the potential of biodegradable fibres to reduce long-term pollution. Leading research institutes will discuss the challenges of balancing the prevention of microplastics with the development of fibres that can degrade naturally in marine ecosystems, and provide insights into innovative solutions that could help mitigate this pressing environmental issue.

Innovation Award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2025”
The nova-Institute, together with GIG Karasek, is looking for the best fibre innovations of the year. Applicants from the area of cellulose fibres as well as biosynthetics are welcome to submit their innovations. Technologie providers, research institutes or producers can apply until 30 November 2024. The innovation award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2025” is sponsored by GIG Karasek.

Apply for the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2025” award: cellulose-fibres.eu/award-application

Call for Posters
The poster exhibition is a highly anticipated scientific event at the conference, especially for early career scientists. Poster submission is open until 31 January 2025.

The Candidate List of substances of very high concern (SVHC) now contains 242 entries for chemicals that can harm people or the environment. Companies are responsible for managing the risks of these chemicals and giving customers and consumers information on their safe use.

ECHA’s Member State Committee confirmed the addition of triphenyl phosphate to the list in its October meeting. The substance has endocrine disrupting properties and is used as a flame retardant and as a plasticiser. The committee’s discussion on including the substance was originally foreseen for June but delayed, exceptionally, due to substantial new information becoming available on its properties.

Entry added to the Candidate List on 7 November 2024:

The list now contains 242 entries – some are groups of chemicals, so the overall number of impacted chemicals is higher.

This substance may be placed on the Authorisation List in the future. If a substance is on this list, companies cannot use it unless they apply for authorisation and the European Commission authorises its continued use.

 
Consequences of inclusion on the Candidate List
 
Under REACH, companies have legal obligations when their substance is included – either on its own, in mixtures or in articles – in the Candidate List.
 
If an article contains a Candidate List substance above a concentration of 0.1 % (weight by weight), suppliers have to give their customers and consumers information on how to use it safely. Consumers have the right to ask suppliers if the products they buy contain substances of very high concern.
 
Importers and producers of articles have to notify ECHA if their article contains a Candidate List substance within six months from the date it has been included in the list (07 November 2024).
 
EU and EEA suppliers of substances on the Candidate List, supplied either on their own or in mixtures, have to update the safety data sheet they provide to their customers.
 
Under the Waste Framework Directive, companies also must notify ECHA if the articles they produce contain substances of very high concern in a concentration above 0.1 % (weight by weight). This notification is published in ECHA’s database of substances of concern in products (SCIP).

For the first time, a piece of clothing is made entirely from textile waste – no bottles, no packaging, no virgin plastic. 100% biorecycled fibers. By developing and industrializing CARBIOS’ enzymatic depolymerization technology to achieve 100% “fiber-to-fiber” recycling, the consortium collectively advances the textile industry's shift towards a circular economy.

CARBIOS, a pioneer in the development and industrialization of biological technologies to reinvent the life cycle of plastic and textiles, and its “fiber-to-fiber” consortium partners On, Patagonia, PUMA, Salomon, and PVH Corp., parent company of Calvin Klein, unveil the world’s first enzymatically recycled polyester garment made from 100% textile waste using CARBIOS’ pioneering biorecycling technology.

This technological feat contributes to advancing textile circularity when, today, the majority of recycled polyester is made from PET bottles, and only 1% of fibers are recycled into new fibers.  The collective achievement marks an important milestone for the consortium’s ultimate aim of demonstrating fiber-to-fiber closed loop using CARBIOS’ biorecycling process at an industrial scale, and marks an important step forward for the textile industry’s shift towards a circular economy.

A plain, white T-shirt was a deliberate choice to showcase the technological achievement that made its production possible from mixed and colored textile waste.  By using CARBIOS’ biorecycling technology, polyester is broken down using enzymes into its fundamental building blocks which are reformed to produce biorecycled polyester whose quality is on par with oil-based virgin polyester.  Petroleum can now be replaced by textile waste as a raw material to produce polyester textiles, that will in turn become raw materials again, thus fueling a circular economy, with the added benefit of a lower carbon footprint and avoidance of landfill or incineration.

The t-shirt’s production began with all consortium members (On, Patagonia, PUMA, PVH Corp. and Salomon) supplying rolls and production cutting scraps to CARBIOS in Clermont-Ferrand, France.  This textile waste consisted of some mixed blends with cotton or elastane, as well as various treatments (such as durable water repellent) and dyes which render them complex to recycle using conventional methods. The collected waste was deconstructed into its original monomers, PTA and MEG, using CARBIOS’ biorecycling technology at its pilot facility. The resulting monomers were then repolymerized, spun into yarn and woven into new fabric by external partners, demonstrating the seamless integration into existing manufacturing processes.  The resulting sports t-shirt made from 100% textile waste meets the quality standards and sustainability objectives of the apparel brands present in the “fiber-to-fiber” consortium.

CARBIOS’ demonstration plant in Clermont-Ferrand, France, has been up and running since 2021, and its first commercial plant, the world’s first industrial-scale enzymatic PET recycling plant, is currently under construction in Longlaville, France.  In addition, CARBIOS recently announced several letters of intent with PET producers in Asia and Europe, confirming global interest in its biorecycling technology and advancing the international roll-out of its licensing model.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announces the release of the International Fiber Journal’s (IFJ) special sustainability issue dedicated to nonwovens. This special edition, which was sponsored by INDA, is a key piece of the association’s 2024 strategic sustainability initiative, launched at the beginning of 2024 in response to feedback that sustainability remains one of the nonwovens industry’s highest priorities.

The IFJ special issue features exclusive content from industry leaders, including Kimberly-Clark Corporation, Glatfelter, Lenzing Fibers, NatureWorks LLC, Hollingsworth & Vose, MANN+HUMMEL, Nexus Circular, Henkel Corporation, and INDA. This edition explores key sustainability topics, structured around three core pillars vital to the industry’s future: Responsible Sourcing, Innovations in Sustainability, and End-of-Life Solutions. Featured topics include:

• Environmentally sustainable nonwoven materials
• Circularity in single-use plastics
• Potential of post-consumer recycled (PCR) materials in nonwovens
• Navigating regulatory challenges
• Advances in bio-based nonwovens
• The role of plastics and polymers in sustainability

“This special issue of the International Fiber Journal is a vital part of our multi-faceted sustainability initiative aimed at providing new and enhanced offerings to INDA members and the nonwovens industry. We are excited to see the industry come together to share insights on the sustainability challenges we face,” said Tony Fragnito, President of INDA.

Protective gloves, such as those used for work, sport or household gardening, retrieve their protective function from a special coating. This coating provides abrasion resistance, makes the material waterproof and resistant to chemicals or oil, and even protects against cuts and punctures. Until now, coatings made of oil-based polymers, nitrile rubber or latex have been the main materials used. Scientists at the German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) have succeeded in developing a robust yet flexible glove coating using environmentally friendly lignin in a 3D printing process.

Coatings that are subject to mechanical stress always suffer from a certain degree of abrasion that is dispersed in the surrounding area. This is also the case with coated protective gloves. In order to avoid long-term pollution of the environment, materials should be used whose abrasion particles are biodegradable. The aim of the research project was to improve conventional protective equipment and integrate more sustainable materials.

The biopolymer lignin is a natural component of plant cells that is produced in large quantities as a by-product of paper manufacturing. Due to its properties, it represents an environmentally friendly alternative to oil-based coating polymers.

The scientists developed biopolymer compounds containing lignin, which were used to produce thermoplastic materials that can be processed using 3D printing.

Lignin has few polar groups, which makes lignins hydrophobic and therefore insoluble in water. For this reason, they biodegrade slowly. This makes them particularly suitable for durable coating materials.

Despite this durability, lignin particles that are released into the environment through abrasion biodegrade faster than the abrasion of conventional coatings. This is due to the much higher surface/volume ratio.

The use of 3D printing makes it possible to produce the coating precisely and efficiently. The 3D printing process also makes it possible to adapt the glove to the individual needs of the wearer. This increases wearer comfort and promotes freedom of movement.

The research project shows that the use of lignin not only offers ecological benefits, but that protective gloves coated with it are also particularly durable and resistant. They meet safety standards and at the same time contribute to sustainability in the world of work.

CARBIOS and FCC Environment UK, a recycling and waste management companies in the UK, have signed a Letter of Intent (LOI) to jointly study the implementation of a UK-based plant using CARBIOS’ PET biorecycling licensed technology.  CARBIOS’ biorecycling technology is key to supporting FCC’s continuing goal of contributing to the circular economy by exploring new processes and technologies to produce recycled PET (r-PET) from PET plastic and textiles. For CARBIOS, this LOI confirms interest from the waste management sector, in addition to plastic producers, and would mean a foothold for its technology in the UK.

FCC’s continuing contribution to the UK circular economy
Recycling has plateaued in the UK in recent years, but UK Government policy very much supports a continual move to a more circular economy which FCC Environment supports. Achieving a circular economy however requires innovation and investment to deliver real environmental change. Exploring biorecycling is one way of doing this, so FCC is keen to understand this technology better by seeking an evidence based view on the advantages of using enzymes for the treatment of PET such as lower energy consumption and better circularity of the polymers back into the PET production lines. The depolymerization process developed by CARBIOS also facilitates the recycling of all kinds of PET waste, including problematic fractions such as polyester textiles, into high-quality recycled PET.

UK PET biorecycling plant would process hard-to-recycle waste
In order to tackle the plastic waste crisis, CARBIOS has developed a enzymatic depolymerization technology that enables efficient and solvent-free recycling of PET plastic and textile waste into virgin-like products. CARBIOS has ambitious plans to become a leading technology provider in the recycling of PET by 2035. In addition to the world’s first industrial-scale enzymatic PET recycling plant which is currently under construction in Longlaville, France, this UK-based plant would process PET waste that is currently not recyclable using conventional recycling technologies, such as colored, multilayered or textile waste.

Fibre Extrusion Technology Ltd (FET) of Leeds, UK has continued the ongoing process of strengthening its Research & Development team. The latest addition is Charlotte Witts, who is currently studying for a degree in Chemistry at Nottingham University and will work at FET for a 12-month period. She will continue her studies in chemistry as distant learning modules whilst also working at FET. FET designs, develops and manufactures extrusion equipment for a wide range of high value textile material applications worldwide.

“I’m really excited to be joining the team at FET and getting stuck in to the role. Sustainability is a big passion of mine, so I’m looking forward to learning how FET develops new technologies that support the textile industry in this endeavour. I hope that my previous studies within this area will help to foster new ideas.”

Furthermore, FET has a development policy of bringing young people into the industry and has invested heavily in recent years to this end, helping to address the skills gap in the UK textile industry. The company’s R&D department comprises ten scientists and engineers who work closely with customers on process development and new product trials.

Charlotte Witts will be focusing on the wet spinning process which is fortuitous as FET has just finished commissioning their own in-house low viscosity wet spinning system. Over the coming year she will focus on spinning a number of bio-sourced polymers (e.g. alginate, chitosan, gelatin, recombinant proteins). These materials require a strong scientific understanding of the underlying chemistry to successfully produce a high-quality yarn. Furthermore, FET regularly gets customer requests to conduct trial work on these materials to de-risk the equipment purchase process.

The current European Football Championships 2024 in Germany will be played on natural turf, which is very costly to maintain, does not tolerate high frequency of use and has a limited service life of only 6 months in some cases. Artificial turf is easier to maintain and correspondingly popular. In Germany, there are estimated to be more than 5,000 artificial turf pitches and as many as 25,500 across the EU. The drawback: the enormous annual emission of microplastics in the form of infill material, the high CO2 impact and the not environmentally friendly disposal. Researchers in Aachen presented a sustainable alternative: BioTurf is a new artificial turf system made from bio-based polymers that no longer requires polymer infill material!

"Every year, around 500 kilograms of plastic granules are produced per artificial turf pitch, which have to be refilled as infill. This also corresponds to the amount that potentially enters the environment as microplastics per sports pitch," explains Dr Claudia Post from TFI. With an estimated 25,000 artificial turf pitches in the EU, artificial turf in Europe alone produces 12,750 tonnes of microplastics that end up in the environment every year! The TFI - Institut für Bodensysteme an der RWTH Aachen e.V., Institute for Research, Testing and Certification in Europe for Indoor Building Products, has developed the innovative artificial turf system together with the ITA (Institute for Textile Technology at RWTH Aachen University) and in collaboration with the company Morton Extrusionstechnik (MET), a specialist in artificial turf fibres.

"New artificial turf pitches will be phased out by 2031 at the latest due to the ban on plastic granules. Even now, artificial turf pitches with infill material are no longer being subsidised," says Dr Claudia Post. For grassroots sports, clubs, cities and local authorities, converting their existing artificial turf pitches will be a mammoth task in the coming years, as artificial turf pitches have to be replaced every 10-15 years. With BioTurf, an environmentally friendly alternative is now available! The surface can be played on like any other, whether running, passing or kicking. Short, heavily crimped blades support longer blades and this simple approach increases playing comfort. BioTurf fulfils all quality requirements and standards for the highest footballing demands.

"BioTurf is an innovative, holistic solution," emphasises Dirk Hanuschik from TFI. "We use rapeseed oil and agricultural waste that does not compete with food production. BioTurf is also almost completely recyclable".
This is in stark contrast to conventional artificial turf, which can currently only be thermally utilised, i.e. burned to generate heat.

As BioTurf does not require the traditional latex process at all, the energy-intensive drying process can be dispensed with, which has a positive effect on the price. Latex is also difficult to recycle. In contrast, BioTurf uses the new thermobonding technology. Here, the thermoplastic pile yarns are thermally fused to the backing. Further development steps still need to be taken in the endeavour to develop a 100% mono-material artificial turf, as a few percent polypropylene still needs to be processed in the backing in addition to the polyethylene fibre material in order to protect it during thermobonding. However, this does not hinder its recyclability.

A new type of pure synthetic leather meets the requirements of the European Ecodesign Regulation. Made from a bio-based plastic, it is biodegradable and meets the requirements for a closed recycling process.

Many synthetic leathers consist of a textile substrate to which a polymer layer is applied. The polymer layer usually consists of an adhesive layer and a top layer, which is usually embossed. The textile backing and the top coat are usually completely different materials. Woven, knitted, or nonwoven fabrics made of PET, PET/cotton, or polyamide are often used as textile substrates. PVC and various polyurethanes are commonly used for coatings. The use of these established composite materials does not meet today's sustainability criteria. Recycling them by type is very costly or even impossible. They are not biodegradable. The search for alternative materials for the production of artificial leather is therefore urgent. In 2022, the EU adopted the Sustainable Products Initiative (SPI) ("Green Deal"). It includes an eco-design regulation that considers a product's life cycle in the conservation of resources. For textile and product design, this means incorporating closing the loop or end-of-life into product development.

In an AiF project carried out in close cooperation between the DITF and the Freiberg Institute gGmbH (FILK), it has now been possible to develop a synthetic leather in which both the fiber material and the coating polymer are identical. The varietal purity is a prerequisite for an industrial recycling concept.

The aliphatic polyester polybutylene succinate (PBS) was recommended as the base material because of its properties. PBS can be produced from biogenic sources and is now available on the market in several grades and in large quantities. Its biodegradability has been demonstrated in tests. The material can be processed thermoplastically. This applies to both the fiber material and the coating. Subsequent product recycling is facilitated by the thermoplastic properties.

In order to realize a successful primary spinning process and to obtain PBS filaments with good textile mechanical properties, process adjustments had to be made in the cooling shaft at the DITF. In the end, it was possible to spin POY yarns at relatively high speeds of up to 3,000 m/min, which had a tenacity of just under 30 cN/tex when stretched. The yarns could be easily processed into pure PBS fabrics. These in turn were used at FILK as a textile base substrate for the subsequent extrusion coating, where PBS was also used as a thermoplastic.

With optimized production steps, PBS composite materials with the typical structure of artificial leather could be produced. Purity and biodegradability fulfill the requirements for a closed recycling process.