From the Sector

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber, yarn and fabrics to finished sewn products, issued the following statements from NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas and several U.S. textile executives in support of President Trump’s order closing de minimis for China, effective May 2.

National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) President and CEO Kim Glas

“We are grateful to President Trump and his administration for closing the destructive de minimis loophole that has allowed unsafe and illegal Chinese goods—including goods made with forced labor—to flood the U.S. market duty-free and largely unchecked for years.

“This loophole, largely exploited by Chinese e-commerce giants and others to skirt U.S. tariffs, regulations and laws, has contributed to the closure of 28 textile mills in the past 22 months.

“The U.S. textile industry is a critical and strategic sector, supplying more than 8,000 products to the U.S. military, as well as industrial and commercial markets, while supporting local communities across country, and employing 471,000 workers nationwide.

“Today’s action by the administration is an important step forward to help rebalance the playing field for American manufacturers, preserve good-paying American manufacturing jobs, spur more investment and innovation in manufacturing facilities here at home, and close the backdoor to China once and for all.

“We urge the administration and Congress to move swiftly to end de minimis for commercial shipments from all countries to prevent circumvention and to make sure Made in China products cannot enter the United States through third countries. The U.S. textile industry stands ready to assist the administration as it continues its work to end the de minimis exemption and implement this critical provision.”

Anderson Warlick, Chairman and CEO of Parkdale Mills
“The de minimis loophole has impacted our businesses and our workforce significantly. Roughly half of de minimis shipments contain textile and apparel products which get an unfair competitive advantage at our expense. Illegal products like fentanyl and products made with Uyghur forced labor come into the United States under the de minimis exemption, causing economic damage and impacting the lives of many Americans.

“I am pleased to see President Trump take action to eliminate de minimis for products from China, and I encourage the administration to end de minimis for imports from all countries so we textile manufacturers can compete on a more level playing field.”

Amy Bircher Bruyn, CEO & Founder of MMI Textiles
“The de minimis loophole has wreaked havoc on the U.S. textile industry by enabling duty-free access for massive volumes of fast fashion imports, largely from China. This policy undermines American manufacturers who play a critical role in our national security and industrial resilience.

“At MMI Textiles, we employ 39 direct team members and support an additional 21 indirect workers — including a printer of camouflage patterns who operates exclusively within our NC facility, summer interns who represent the next generation of textile leaders, and specialized industry consultants. More broadly, through our robust contract manufacturing network, we directly support hundreds of jobs across the U.S. supply chain. Our company is a catalyst for employment and innovation in domestic textiles, producing essential components for U.S. military and law enforcement applications.

“The U.S. textile industry is vital to our nation’s industrial base. We supply the U.S. military, and during the COVID-19 pandemic, our industry pivoted rapidly to manufacture lifesaving PPE for frontline workers. Despite these contributions, the current de minimis threshold has created an unfair advantage for foreign competitors, particularly China, by allowing them to bypass duties and flood the market with underpriced goods — at the direct expense of American jobs.

“I am encouraged by President Trump’s commitment to ending de minimis eligibility for Chinese imports. I urge the administration to move swiftly to eliminate this loophole for all imports and restore a level playing field that protects U.S. manufacturing, jobs, and national security.”

Ron Sytz, CEO of Beverly Knits
“I am truly thankful to President Trump for closing the de minimis loophole for Chinese imports. This loophole has been devastating to my family’s 44-year-old textile manufacturing business in Gastonia, North Carolina, forcing us to lay off 175 workers and significantly reduce capacity in our plants. We can’t compete against subsidized imports from China that enter the U.S. duty free through the de minimis loophole. With the administration’s action, our company which provides hundreds of jobs and supports our community and the U.S. economy, will once again have a level playing field that will allow us to expand, invest and hire more associates here in the United States.”

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announced the INDA International Trade Handbook, available in the INDA store and free to download for INDA members.

The handbook was written in partnership with the law firm Sandler, Travis & Rosenberg P.A. and represents several months of work compiling U.S. trade and customs policy and compliance information impacting the nonwovens sector. The handbook is a comprehensive, 240-page guide to help you and your business understand and comply with U.S. international trade law.  

Information included in the handbook features active tariffs on goods coming into the U.S. as of April 9, 2025, and tariff rates and classification codes for nonwoven roll goods and finished goods. You can preview the table of contents here.

The US is EU 5th most important trading partner, with total trade exceeding €9 billion.
American customers enjoy high end fashion items, but also technical textiles coming from Europe. Adding a 20% duty will hamper that relationship.
 
EURATEX Director General Dirk Vantyghem warned against this tariff escalation: "This decision is like going back in time; it will lead to a loose-loose relationship within the global textile industry. EURATEX stands for free but fair trade, based on common rules which are respected by all; the EU and the US should lead by example, and promote high quality and sustainable textile products.”

The statement in full:

EDANA, the leading global association representing the nonwovens and related industries, acknowledges the European Commission’s potential decision to implement countermeasures in response to the recently imposed US tariffs on EU steel, aluminium, and certain derived products. As the voice of over 250 companies in the nonwovens supply chain, we are closely monitoring the implications of these measures and their potential impact on our members.

Nonwovens are innovative, high-tech, engineered fabrics made from fibres. They are used in a wide range of consumer and industrial products either in combination with other materials or alone. They provide essential materials for hygiene products, medical applications, filtration, construction, and automotive industries. They are critical in ensuring public health, safety, and industrial efficiency, with applications ranging from surgical masks and wound dressings to baby diapers, disinfectant wipes, and high-performance insulation.

While we welcome the intention to safeguard the interests of EU industries affected by the US tariffs, EDANA joins those already raising significant concerns about the potential unintended consequences of these countermeasures on our sector.

The EU’s relationship with the US is of critical importance, and we believe the primary focus should be on negotiations to reach a mutually beneficial resolution. It is essential to avoid escalating trade tensions that could result in long-term harm to industries on both sides of the Atlantic.

Negative effect on key raw materials
A particular area of concern is the potential effect of these countermeasures on critical raw materials, such as fluff pulp. Fluff pulp, or pulp-based fibres, are a natural raw material used in the absorbent core of absorbent hygiene products, this is due to their high absorbency rate. Baby nappies, menstrual products, and incontinence products all rely on fluff pulp to absorb and retain human fluids. In 2024, the US provided more than 80% of the fluff pulp imported into the European Union.

This is just one example of the broader impact these countermeasures could have on the industry. These measures could lead to increased production costs, higher finished product prices, supply chain disruptions, and a competitive disadvantage for European nonwoven manufacturers in global markets.

Conclusion
It is important to highlight that these proposed measures risk being unfair, as they will disproportionately impact the more vulnerable members of our society, including the elderly, hospitalised individuals, young families with children, and women. Any regulatory changes should carefully consider their social implications to avoid exacerbating inequalities.

Considering these concerns, EDANA urges the European Commission to carefully assess the economic impact on downstream industries, ensuring that countermeasures do not disproportionately impact sectors dependent on essential imported raw materials. We welcome the opportunity to contribute to the ongoing consultation process and strongly advocate for a balanced approach that safeguards European industry while maintaining fair and open trade relations with the US.

The European Commission has the opportunity to prevent a harmful cycle of retaliatory tariffs that could have a net negative effect on both economies.

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber to finished sewn products, issued the following statement today from President and CEO Kim Glas regarding the Trump administration’s notices imposing 25 percent tariffs on imports from Mexico and Canada and additional 10 percent tariffs on China.

Statement by NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas:

“The newly imposed tariffs on imports from Mexico and Canada threaten a crucial textile and apparel coproduction chain with our two valued trade partners—one that sustains nearly 500,000 American jobs and a total of 1.6 million jobs across North America.  Destabilizing this production chain coupled with the de minimis loophole will only exacerbate migration and the fentanyl crisis.  We appreciate that President Trump has drawn much needed attention to these significant problems, but we believe there is another way that achieves critical objectives that grow U.S. jobs, stabilizes the Western Hemisphere, and closes dangerous tariff loopholes that are hurting us all.  We want to work with the President to find solutions that work to meet all these objectives.

“The U.S. textile industry ships $12.3 billion, or 53 percent, of its total global textile exports to Mexico and Canada and those component materials often come back as finished products to the United States under the United States-Mexico-Canada Agreement (USMCA). This coproduction chain under USMCA represents $20 billion in two-way trade and spurs U.S. investment in the region as well as at home.

“Equally as important, it serves as an alternative and counterweight to the China-led, Asia- based production platform that competes based on illegal tactics, such as the used of forced labor, subsidies and counterfeits, and has largely come to dominate global trade.

“For these reasons, we are extremely concerned that the imposition of penalty tariffs on imports from our critical USMCA partners will only serve to benefit China and other Asian countries and harm the U.S. textile industry, which has lost 27 plants in the past 20 months.

“Separately, we welcome President Trump’s plan to impose an additional10 percent penalty tariff on imports from China, bringing the total of new tariffs on China to 20 percent this year. In fact, we encourage even higher penalty tariffs on China and recommend that these penalty duties be specifically targeted to finished apparel and textile imports.

“In addition, we are calling on President Trump to close the de minimis loophole to all commercial shipments from China, Mexico and Canada, and more importantly from all countries. This loophole facilitates 4 million shipments a day to the United States that often hide illegal and unethically made products, unsafe goods and illicit fentanyl and other narcotics to our doorsteps.

“Raising tariffs on countries without closing this destructive loophole will only serve to drive more shipments to the duty-free de minimis loophole. Incentivizing greater use of de minimis will further harm U.S. manufacturers and exacerbate the fentanyl crisis, because this loophole will continue to provide a workaround for importers of consumer products and drug cartels alike who are seeking to avoid punitive trade enforcement.”

“We look forward to continuing to work with the Trump administration on these important trade policies that have widespread implications for the U.S. textile industry and those of our free trade partners. This is a pivotal moment for the domestic textile industry, and we believe the right policies will preserve and bolster this vital manufacturing base and spur more job creation and investment.”

National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) President and CEO Kim Glas issued a statement commending U.S. Customs and Border Protection’s (CBP) notice of proposed rulemaking aimed at curtailing de minimis shipments that are harming the U.S. manufacturing base and U.S. consumers.

Statement by NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas (17 January):
“We welcome CBP’s announced notice of proposed rulemaking exempting de minimis tariff-free benefits on imports ‘specified as trade and national security actions.’ This rulemaking represents a step forward in minimizing the impact of this disastrous loophole in U.S. trade law that has facilitated a surge of duty-free imports that are normally subject to penalty tariffs under various U.S. trade remedy statutes. Failure to collect these duties has exacerbated the flow of goods found to be in violation of U.S. trade laws that are costing American jobs and damaging our manufacturing sector.

“With this rulemaking, CBP and the administration seek to eliminate de minimis treatment for all imported products subject to U.S. trade remedies and penalties, including the current Section 301 tariffs on China. This is an important and much overdue reform.”

CBP states that the number of shipments over the past 10 years entering the United States claiming the de minimis administrative exemption has increased by more than 600%--from approximately 139 million a year in Fiscal Year 2015, to over one billion a year in FY 2023. During FY 2024, de minimis shipments rose once again to over 1.36 billion, according to CBP. The agency notes that the exponential increase ‘has created challenges for CBP’s effective enforcement of U.S. trade laws, health and safety requirements, intellectual property rights, and consumer protection rules.’     

“We have long called on the administration to use its existing authorities to mitigate the damage to our industry created by de minimis, which has functioned as a massive tariff loophole for low-cost, subsidized, and unethical Chinese imports and undermined the competitiveness of the U.S. textile industry—a key contributor to the workforce and the U.S. economy.

“The U.S. textile industry, a strategic supplier of goods to the U.S. military and PPE, is experiencing severe demand destruction fueled by 4 million de minimis shipments a day flooding our market with cheap, often illegal imports because of this outdated trade provision that rewards Chinese e-commerce platforms, importers and tariff cheaters with an open door to the U.S. market.

“The administration’s decision to initiate the rulemaking process in its final days is a significant and meaningful action for our domestic industry and that of other manufacturing sectors. We urge CBP to expedite the rulemaking process to the fullest extent possible and appreciate the agency’s strong engagement with our industry.

“Further, we strongly urge the incoming Trump administration to not only endorse this proposed rulemaking but to expeditiously implement a comprehensive solution to the growing de minimis problem beyond the action announced today. Noting the magnitude of the problem, and the inability of CBP to effectively enforce our trade laws with the flood of de minimis packages coming in daily, we are calling on President-elect Donald Trump to take immediate steps to end de minimis by executive order. We are also pressing Congress to work together with the new administration on a permanent and comprehensive solution to immediately close this disastrous loophole once and for all.

“We are strongly committed to working with CBP on the rulemaking process as well as the Trump administration and both sides of the aisle in Congress to get this done immediately to help provide relief to this most impacted industry and others. “

The Biden administration’s Section 301 penalty tariffs on finished textiles and apparel counteract China’s unfair trade advantages and give U.S. manufactures a chance to compete, two key American textile manufacturing groups told the Biden administration. Removing tariffs, the associations said, would reward China, put U.S. manufacturers at a competitive disadvantage and do nothing to reduce inflation.

In a formal submission to the U.S. Trade Representative’s (USTR) office, which is conducting a four-year statutory review of the tariffs, the associations, representing the entirety of the U.S. textile production chain, expressed strong support for the continuation of current Section 301 penalty tariffs on finished textiles and apparel imports from China and outlined the effectiveness of U.S. tariff actions.

“In some cases, such as on finished apparel, the tariffs have worked to partially offset and counteract China’s unfair trade advantages,” the groups said. “The tariffs on finished textile and apparel items are giving U.S. manufacturers the chance to compete, and we are seeing encouraging investment and growth in moving some production and souring from China back to the Western Hemisphere.”

“The CAFTA-DR [Dominican Republic-Central America Free Trade Agreement] region has seen more than $1 billion in new textile and apparel investment this year, for example, which is historic and due to the textile and apparel rules negotiated under the agreement and sourcing shifts from China,” they added. “This investment and growing U.S. imports from the Western Hemisphere is attributable in part to the 301 tariffs on finished apparel.  The tariffs on finished items in our sector are broadly supported by textile/apparel producers in the hemispheric co-production chain, and it is essential that they remain in place, absent China reforming its practices.”

The submission was filed by the National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) and the U.S. Industrial and Narrow Fabrics Institute (USINFI), a division of the Advanced Textiles Association (AFA).

The groups have long advocated for a fair, transparent process to remove tariffs on textile machinery, certain chemicals and dyes and limited textile inputs that cannot be sourced domestically to help U.S. manufacturers compete against China.

They also stressed that lifting the tariffs on finished textiles and apparel products from China “will solidify their global dominance in this sector for generations to come and reward their abusive behaviors, exacerbate the migration crisis, hurt domestic manufacturers and workers, undermine our ability to recalibrate essential PPE supply chains, and blunt the positive supply chains shifts and investments in the Western Hemisphere that are happening.” They added it would “do nothing to solve the inflation crisis facing U.S. consumers and manufacturers right now.”

See the full submission here.

Textile Groups Urge U.S. to Maintain Penalty Tariffs on Finished Products

The Biden administration should maintain Section 301 penalty tariffs on finished textiles and apparel or risk reversing once-in-a-lifetime nearshoring trends and undermining critical investments and jobs in the U.S. and Western Hemisphere, three key American textile manufacturing groups said today.

In a formal submission to the U.S. Trade Representative’s (USTR) office, which is conducting a four-year statutory review of the tariffs, the associations expressed strong support for the continuation of penalty tariffs on imports from China and warned of the consequences associated with removing the tariffs.

“A key aspect of [the Biden administration’s trade] policy is the need to maintain Section 301 tariffs, absent substantive improvements in China’s pervasive, predatory trade practices,” the groups said. Lifting the tariffs “would also do nothing to achieve the administration’s goal of easing inflationary pressures, as apparel prices out of China continue to hit rock bottom even with the Section 301 tariffs,” they noted.

The submission was filed by the National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) and the Narrow Fabrics Institute (NFI) and Industrial Fabrics Institute (USIFI) – both divisions of the Advanced Textiles Association (ATA).  The associations represent the entirety of the U.S. textile production chain.

“For decades, China’s illegal actions have undermined virtually every domestic manufacturing sector and contributed to the direct loss of millions of U.S. jobs. These devastating state-sponsored practices include intellectual property theft as well as pervasive state-ownership of manufacturing, industrial subsidies, and abhorrent labor and human rights abuses in the Xinjiang region,” they noted. “Cancelling these tariffs would create further unhealthy dependence on Chinese supply chains and embolden future systematic trade abuses as bad actors know that the U.S. will not hold them accountable.”

The tariffs were imposed on China beginning in 2018 in response to China’s continuing IP and related trade violations. China has since failed to comply with an agreement it reached with the United States in 2020.

National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) President and CEO Kim Glas sent a letter to Acting Director of the Office of Management and Budget (OMB) Robert Fairweather, requesting the agency reconsider and approve a proposal to direct U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) to collect Section 301 penalty duties on billions of dollars of Chinese goods currently shipped duty free under Section 321 de minimis waivers.

“There has been an exponential growth of shipments to the United States in recent years that qualify for Section 321 duty-free treatment,” Glas said in the letter. “U.S. manufacturers of textiles, apparel and other consumer goods that routinely sell for less than the $800 de minimis threshold increasingly find their markets and workforce threatened by this tariff avoidance scheme.”

The letter details how the current Section 321 provision is now being coupled with e-commerce to provide billions in duty avoidance on these imported products, including:

• Increased import price pressure on domestic manufacturers of various types of consumer items that routinely sell for less than $800 such as – apparel, footwear, home furnishings, toys, consumer electronics, flatware, auto parts, etc.
• An inability to properly identify and block the importation of adulterated products posing a health and safety risk to consumers.
• An inability to properly identify and block imports of counterfeit products that violate intellectual property laws.
• Enhanced ability of countries like China to access the U.S. market, despite their failure to provide reciprocal access to their markets and their persistent illegal and unfair trading practices.

“Imported merchandise from China that enters under a Section 321 waiver is exempt from all normal tariffs and any penalty duties assessed under the current 301 case. This unreasonable and unnecessary duty exemption severely undermines the purpose and value of the existing Section 301 determination against China as an effort to address its longstanding predatory trade practices,” Glas stated.

“The Biden administration should undertake an exhaustive review of this problem to develop the policy changes needed to mitigate the damaging impact of Section 321 waivers on U.S. workers and manufacturers,” Glas added. “In the interim, it is critical that the OMB and CBP take reasonable steps, such as denying Section 321 benefits to goods covered under the existing China 301 determination [tariffs]. Doing so would be a valuable first step toward limiting the dangerous and growing exploitation of this tariff waiver mechanism.”

NCTO Supports Administration’s Proposals on Economic Stimulus in Coronavirus Response; Rejects Importer Attempts to Remove China 301 Tariffs on Finished Products

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum U.S. textiles from fiber through finished sewn products, issued a statement today welcoming the Trump administration’s proposals on an economic stimulus package to gird the economy against the impact of the coronavirus outbreak. But the organization urged officials to reject any attempts by importers to remove China 301 tariffs on finished products as part of any relief package.

“The president has outlined the need for a broad economic stimulus package that would include various tax incentives to help impacted industries and workers. We support the administration’s efforts to bolster the economy as a response to the coronavirus outbreak, while opposing add-ons to any stimulus package designed to exploit the crisis,” said NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas.

As part of a Phase One deal with China, the administration reduced duties on finished apparel and textile products implemented on Sept.1 from 15 percent to 7.5 percent.

Finished apparel, home furnishings and other made-up textile goods equate to 93.5 percent of U.S. imports from China in the sector; while fiber, yarn, and fabric imports from China only represent 6.5 percent, according to government data.