From the Sector

Neue Wertschöpfungsmöglichkeiten für die Region

»Vom Braunkohle- zum BioökonomieREVIER«: Im Rahmen des Strukturwandels soll das Rheinische Revier zu einer Modellregion für ressourceneffizientes und nachhaltiges Wirtschaften werden. Insgesamt 15 Innovationslabore entstehen gerade an der Schnittstelle zwischen (Land-)Wirtschaft und Wissenschaft, beteiligt sind Vertreter aus Wirtschaft, Wissenschaft, Politik und Gesellschaft. Die Innovationslabore sollen den schnellen Transfer neuer Verfahren in die Praxis ermöglichen, um Wertschöpfung und neue Arbeitsplätze zu generieren. Das Fraunhofer UMSICHT ist gemeinsam mit weiteren Partnern für das Projekt »AZUR« verantwortlich, das den Anbau und die Verwertung von Heil- und Medizinpflanzen am Beispiel von Arnika untersucht.

Aus den Händen von Forschungsstaatssekretär Thomas Rachel MdB (3.v.l.) nahmen Prof. Wolfgang Marquardt (Vorstandsvorsitzender Forschungszentrum Jülich), Prof. Ulrich Schurr (Forschungszentrum Jülich), Prof. Ulrich Schwaneberg (RWTH Aachen), Dr. Georg Schaumann (Sense up) und Prof. Volker Sander (FH Aachen) die Förderurkunden entgegen. Die Fraunhofer-Gesellschaft und YNCORIS GmbH & Co. KG sind weitere Partner des Konsortiums.

Aus den Händen von Forschungsstaatssekretär Thomas Rachel MdB (3.v.l.) nahmen Prof. Wolfgang Marquardt (Vorstandsvorsitzender Forschungszentrum Jülich), Prof. Ulrich Schurr (Forschungszentrum Jülich), Prof. Ulrich Schwaneberg (RWTH Aachen), Dr. Georg Schaumann (Sense up) und Prof. Volker Sander (FH Aachen) die Förderurkunden entgegen. Die Fraunhofer-Gesellschaft und YNCORIS GmbH & Co. KG sind weitere Partner des Konsortiums.

Das Rheinische Revier ist stark von der Nutzung fossiler Rohstoffe geprägt. Ein zentraler Pfeiler der Energiewende ist jedoch der Kohleausstieg, weshalb die Region besonders vom Strukturwandel betroffen ist. Die Gestaltung dieses Strukturwandels ist Kern des Projekts »BioökonomieREVIER Rheinland«, das Ziel: eine Modellregion für nachhaltiges Wirtschaften zu schaffen. Insgesamt stellt die Bundesregierung bis Mitte 2021 rund 25 Millionen Euro für das Vorhaben zur Verfügung. »Mit der Förderung durch das Bundesministerium für Bildung und Forschung wollen wir die Bioökonomie in die Anwendung bringen und so zu neuen Produkten, neuen Produktionsverfahren und neuen Arbeitsplätzen kommen. Das Rheinische Revier bietet dafür beste Voraussetzungen und wird einer der Eckpfeiler sein, um die jüngst beschlossene, neue Bioökonomiestrategie der Bundesregierung mit Leben zu füllen«, so Forschungsstaatssekretär Thomas Rachel MdB zum Projektauftakt. Beste Voraussetzungen für eine erfolgreiche Umsetzung bringen auch die beteiligten Organisationen mit ein: Sie decken das gesamte Spektrum von der Grundlagenforschung bis hin zur praktischen Umsetzung ab.

Landwirtschaftliche Produktion erweitern: hochwertige pharmazeutische Inhaltsstoffe

Im ersten Teilprojekt wird eine Regionalstrategie ausgearbeitet. Parallel dazu entstehen sogenannte Innovationslabore und -plattformen an den Schnittstellen von Wissenschaft, Wirtschaft und Landwirtschaft. Sie gehen auf konkrete Probleme im Rheinischen Revier ein und sollen auch in der Fläche wirksame Maßnahmen umsetzen.

Das Fraunhofer UMSICHT bringt seine Expertise im Bereich nachhaltiger Landwirtschaft mit ein. Auf Basis der Forschungsarbeit soll die landwirtschaftliche Produktion in der Region ausgebaut werden. In Zusammenarbeit mit dem Fraunhofer IME und dem Forschungszentrum Jülich betrachten die Wissenschaftlerinnen und Wissenschaftler die nachhaltige biogene Wertschöpfung von Heil- und Medizinpflanzen am Beispiel von Arnika. »Im Laufe des Projekts `AZUR` wählen wir zum einen ertragreiche Arnikapflanzen aus Zuchtprogrammen für den Freilandbau aus, zum anderen entwickeln wir die sensorgesteuerte Kultivierung in Indoor-Systemen«, erklärt Volkmar Keuter, Leiter der Abteilung Photonik und Umwelt am Fraunhofer UMSICHT. Auch der Ernteprozess wird detailliert betrachtet, um mithilfe neuer Technologien gezielt die wirkstoffreichsten Blüten zu gewinnen.

At the Swiss-Egyptian Investment Forum which took place on February 3 in Cairo (Egypt), the Cotton & Textiles Holding Company and Rieter signed additional contracts related to the modernization program for the Egyptian textile industry.

Further Orders from Egypt:

• Contracts for additional projects signed in Cairo
• Order volume is around 30 million Swiss francs
• Order intake in the first half year of 2020 expected

The total volume of the contracts sums up to around 210 million Swiss Francs, including the contracts which had been signed at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona and which represent a volume of around 180 million Swiss Francs.

Rieter expects the full amount of orders to be booked as order intake in the first half year of 2020. So far, 165 million Swiss Francs have been booked.

At JEC World 2020, MECELEC COMPOSITES is a finalist of the JEC Innovation Awards in the Design & Furniture category. The Group announces the launch of a new sustainable development application on the urban design market. MECELEC COMPOSITES designed the first mass-produced flax fibre roofs for the 550 Morris columns installed by JCDecaux in Paris. “This is the first application of flax fibre BMC for mass production. The new solution combines all the advantages of composite materials, lightness and strength, with stringent environmental requirements and is adapted to the safety constraints of this kind of street furniture,” says Bénédicte Durand, Chief Executive Officer at MECELEC COMPOSITES.

A COMPOSITE ROOF THAT IS BOTH INNOVATIVE AND GREEN
The dome of the Morris columns is composed of 23 different parts, 14 of which are made from composite materials. To design the roof, MECELEC COMPOSITES developed a new RTM complex and a new BMC material, that is reinforced exclusively with a flax mat. “Today it is the only BMC with a 100% flax fibre reinforcement, which uses a partially recycled ABS resin. It was created specifically for this project and we had to work on the processes in order to adapt them to this new material,” explains Bertrand Vieille, Head of sales.
In the design, MECELEC COMPOSITES replaced the bonding process with a time-saving mechanical assembly process using an invisible fixing system.

AN ECO-FRIENDLY APPLICATION IN LINE WITH THE GROUP’S ECO-DESIGN CSR APPROACH
MECELEC COMPOSITES creates scalable, sustainable and environmentally-friendly street furniture. The Group is committed to developing a sustainable production process and reuses all its waste materials. MECELEC COMPOSITES R&D laboratory promotes eco-design with a process of characterisation and mechanical sizing of parts. “For this project, we imagined, created, produced and delivered a mass-produced composite application with a low environmental impact within less than a year. At the end of its lifecycle, the product completely breaks down, leaving no fibre residue,” Bénédicte Durand concludes.

Because of the unpredictable risks arising from the Corona virus, the viscose speciality fibre manufacturer Kelheim Fibres has decided to stop all business trips to and from China for the time being.

“We recognise our responsibility towards our customers and our employees. Their health and safety come first”, explains Matthew North, Commercial Director of Kelheim Fibres.

Among other things, Kelheim Fibres manufactures hygiene fibres that are used, for example, in tampons and other personal care products. These highly sensitive products have been also taken into account in making this decision.

The Bavarians operate their own representative office in Shanghai and are supplier for many Chinese companies.

“We wish China and its population that the measures taken will lead to a rapid containment of the virus”, adds Matthew North.

The Trevira CS joint booth at Heimtextil 2020 was once again a success.

Trevira looks back on a successful trade fair appearance at Heimtexil 2020. The concept of a joint booth together with customers along with the presentation of product innovations and a special exhibition dedicated to the contract sector has once again proved its worth. Trevira hosted 31 co-exhibitors thus increasing the number of participants again compared to last year. Members of the entire textile value chain were present at the Trevira stand: from the fibre production and yarn manufacture, to the colouring, weaving and warp and weft knitting stages, to the textile editor.

Klaus Holz, CEO Trevira GmbH: „We are pleased about the very positive feedback we got on our joint booth at Heimtextil 2020 from our customers and the visitors to our stand. It shows that our concept is successful and that the booth works well as a market place for Trevira CS.”

Product novelties were presented in an Innovation Park. Under the headline “Recycling at Trevira” the fibre producer presented its sustainable product range and diversified approaches to recycling: flame retardant fibres are produced from residual materials, which are reprocessed in an agglomeration plant. The recyclates are then deployed in the spinning facility to make new, high-quality products consisting of 100 % pre-consumer recycled material. Recycled, flame retardant filaments are produced from PET bottles and have a recycled content of 50 %. Standard polyester spun-dyed filament yarns are also available in a recycled version. Produced from PET bottles these yarns have a recycled content of 100 %.

In order to produce flame retardant fabrics which are also high-performing  in outdoor applications, Trevira now offers six more colours in addition to the existing colour range of 24 UV-stable, spun-dyed filament yarns. Trevira had been awarded the „Brandenburger Innovationspreis Kunststoffe und Chemie 2019“ for this innovation.

Cationic dyeable fibres and filament yarns enhance the Trevira portfolio of flame retardant specialties. They are used to create melange designs in fabrics, which still represents a strong trend in the home textile sector.

To meet the ever more complex demands of the market for more flexibility in design and additional functions as well as for sustainable products Trevira has introduced an enhanced Trevira CS branding concept, consisting of the three brands Trevira CS, Trevira CS flex und Trevira CS eco. Assigned according to product features, all of them stand for tested safety.

Bemberg™ gears up for Première Vision - February 11th-13th, Paris, France; with a great deal of novelties and a key statement on sustainability: Let’s Make it Circular! That’s why the Japanese brand of regenerated cellulose fibers joins the fair with two booths, one in the yarn-focused sector – Hall 6 C52 6D53 – the other one in the Smart Creation area, the curated district showcasing cutting-edge sustainable innovation for the textile and fashion business. Hall3 S14.

“We simply could not miss out on the Smart Creation Area as sustainability is the founding pillar of our company,” says SHUNSUKE SATO, sales manager of Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei. “Indeed, the smart fiber is made from a cotton linter which is pre-consumer material, a natural derived source, that doesn’t deplete forestry resources. The strategy beyond our double presence is to highlight our deep commitment to responsible innovation to a larger target of professionals.”

Let’s take it circular! is the motto at the Smart Creation booth. The lifespan of Bemberg™’s regenerated cellulose fiber derived from cotton is fully circular: from the source to manufacturing. The whole sustainable closed-loop process is supported by the LCA study, signed by ICEA and validated by Paolo Masoni. Recyclability is granted by the Global Recycle Standard - GRS certification by the renown Textile Exchange. An influential guarantee that involves the whole production process and supply chain behind the company’s smart yarns. Bemberg™ yarns are entirely biodegradable and ecotoxicity-free – meaning that at the end of their life circle they break down into the environment leaving no trace in terms of toxic substances as attested by the Innovhub-SSI report.

On show at Première Vision some of the most recent collaborations with GRS-certified partners such as FIVEOL, SMI TESSUTI, TESSITURA UBOLDI, INFINITY, SIDONIOS, MATIAS & ARAUJO, TINTEX, IPEKER, EKOTEN, for fashion fabrics as well as PEZZETTI and BRUNELLO & G.CRESPI from lining partners.

The first Bemberg™ partner to present a commercial collection enriched by Velutine™ Evo is the Portuguese Matias & Araújo. With an innovative spirit, dynamism and a determined entrepreneurial spirit, the company is a leading knitwear producer for the textile industry.

In the Hall 6 Bemberg™ displays key commercial items developed by premium brands such as CAALO that is making its mark in the outerwear market with its Sustainably produced Functional-Luxury proposal. For SS20, CAALO utilized Bemberg™ lining because of the sustainability properties and it's unique colour.

CAALO looks to utilize as much eco-friendly and sustainable materials as possible without compromising on design or quality. This Bemberg™ lining was a perfect fit.

• Sales were significantly down on the previous year, falling by 29% to CHF 760 million
• EBIT margin of around 11% and net profit of around 7% of sales anticipated, non-recurring profit contribution from sale of real estate in Ingolstadt (Germany)
• Order intake up 7% on previous year; order intake amounting to CHF 401.6 million booked in fourth quarter 2019 (4th quarter 2018: CHF 119.0 million)
• First half of 2020 expected to be significantly lower than previous year in terms of sales and earnings
• Further capacity adjustment measures introduced
• Start of construction of Rieter CAMPUS expected during 2020, subject to granting of building permit

The Rieter Group closed the 2019 financial year, as expected, with considerably lower sales than in the previous year. According to the first, unaudited figures, total sales of CHF 760.0 million were achieved, which is 29% down on the previous year (2018: CHF 1 075.2 million). At CHF 926.1 million, order intake was 7% higher than in the prior year period (2018: CHF 868.8 million). Rieter will publish the full annual financial statements and the 2019 Annual Report on March 10, 2020.

So far, ROICA™ has become a global success in the market reaching in the end consumer’s wardrobe. At Première Vision, the company takes place at the Smart Creation Area, the fair’s centre of sustainability. On show in Paris premium collaborations for the wardrobe of tomorrow starting from G-Star Raw smart jeans and Licia Florio’s soft sports apparel.

“A true pioneer cannot only be the first one of the leading one. It must commit to raise the bar.” Says Shinohe Hiroaki, ROICA™ Chief Marketing Officer based in Germany. “That’s why we are working to evolve and empower the smart yarns of the certified ROICA Eco-Smart™ family with additional performances.”

13. Fashion Net & Friends Come Together

Düsseldorf - Highlight der Düsseldorfer Ordertage war auch am Wochenende wieder das Fashion Net & Friends Come Together im Blumengroßmarkt. Über 800 Gäste aus dem Fashionbusiness kamen bei Deutschlands größtem Branchentreff der Modeindustrie zusammen und feierten zum 13. Mal gemeinsam das erfolgreiche Orderwochenende in der nordrhein-westfälischen Landeshauptstadt.

Unter dem Motto „Polarlichter“ verwandelte sich der Düsseldorfer Blumengroßmarkt in eine winterliche Location. In entspannter, informeller Atmosphäre traf sich das Who-is-Who der Branche zum Networking und feierte zu einem abwechslungsreichen Live-Musik-Mix. Neben DJ-Sound der DJanes Anie 2elements und Xandra, sorgten Supertalent-Gewinner Jay-Oh sowie die Habama Brothers für mitreißende Partystimmung. Erfrischende Drinks sowie eine breite kulinarische Palette komplettierten die exklusive Branchenveranstaltung. Von Sushi über Teppanyaki, Burritos bis zur Currywurst – Fashion Net servierte den Gästen des Branchen-Happenings eine internationale Variation für jeden Geschmack.

„Die CPD im Januar hat erneut gezeigt: Düsseldorf bleibt ein international relevanter Orderstandort. Auch die Stimmung unter den Einkäufern in Düsseldorf war gut – nicht nur beim Ordergeschäft auf den Messen und in den Showrooms, auch bei unseren Netzwerkveranstaltungen wie dem Modebusiness Award und dem Fashion Net & Friends Come Together. Mit dem Blumengroßmarkt bieten wir dem Branchenpublikum eine gute Plattform für informelles Networking. Ich bedanke mich herzlich bei unseren Gastgebern, ohne die wir diesen Abend nicht so erfolgreich umsetzen könnten“, so Angelika Firnrohr, Geschäftsführerin Fashion Net Düsseldorf und Initiatorin des Branchen-Events.

Neben Fashion Net ermöglichten weitere hochkarätige Gastgeber die exklusive Veranstaltung: Brax, Rabe, bugatti, C.E.d.E.R., Kö-Bogen Düsseldorf, Eterna, Gerry Weber, ZERRES, The Supreme Group, Füchschen, Seidensticker und TextilWirtschaft.

In the latest short film released on the Monforts YouTube Channel – captured at the recent Denim Première Vision show in London – some of the leading global manufacturers discuss their initiatives for more sustainable denim production.

Cone Denim, based in Greensboro, North Carolina, for example, can lay claim to having put in place its first environmental control measures back in the 1940s when the company first started recycling its water.

“It was a method of efficiency even back then, eighty years ago,” says Gabriel Magopat, of the company’s UK customer service centre, “but  producing high quality products is another method of being sustainable and of being efficient, and I think that’s what Cone stands for. We have an amazing history.”

Cone Denim is known for its signature S Gene® stretch denims which have traditionally incorporated polyester components to provide the stretch. It has now partnered with Intrinsic Advanced Materials of Gastonia, also in North Carolina, to introduce patent-pending CiCLO stretch polyester fibres into its denim collections. 

While still being synthetic based, CiCLO polyester is able to biodegrade in marine environments, wastewater treatment plants and landfill conditions, at rates similar to natural fibres like wool. 

This more sustainable solution for stretch is also being introduced to China for the first time by another leading denim supplier, Advance Denim.

“Advance Denim is spending its resources on being the most technologically advanced company in China, and also the most sustainable,” says Mark Ix, the company’s Director of Marketing. “We are investing heavily in our manufacturing to save both water and chemicals to create cleaner products.”

Monforts denim customer Berto is a family-owned company with its main denim mill in Bovolenta, a small rural town near to Padua in the north east of Italy, where respect for the environment has always been a must.

“The family has always been focused on respect for the environment,” says Berto’s Marketing Manager Francesca Palento. “In particular, we have a river next to the company from which we take our water for production and we then return it cleaner than it was before. We are also now producing GOTS and Global Recycling Standard jean produced with yarns made from our own internal waste production.”

Pakistan’s Soorty has recently received Cradle to Cradle Gold certification – the most stringent and exacting sustainable standard currently in existence – for its Pure D range of denims. These are produced using the company’s proprietary Zero Waste Water dyeing technology, in combination with the most advanced Monforts finishing machines. 

“Our very latest collection is called Climate Jeans, because every single product we now produce draws attention to the climate emergency we are living through right now,” says Eda Dikman, Soorty’s Marketing Communications Manager. “Sustainability is very important to us because we produce at scale and all of the actions we take reflect on the planet.”