From the Sector

Stahl has published its 2023 Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) Report. The report outlines Stahl's recent progress on its ESG Roadmap to 2030 and the steps the company is taking to live its purpose of Touching lives, for a better world.

Stahl’s ESG Roadmap to 2030 includes interim targets for 2023, making this a year in which Stahl reached several important milestones. For example, the company reduced its scope 1 and 2 greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions by 22% versus 2022. Furthermore, in 2023 the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) validated Stahl's scope 1, 2 and 3 targets, making it one of the first coatings companies on the SBTi-approved list.

To reduce its GHG emissions, Stahl is actively increasing its use of clean energy. At the end of 2023, renewable energy generation, such as solar panels, had been installed at four Stahl sites, compared to its target of three.

Measuring – and reducing – the impact of products is an important step in the company’s scope 3 emissions. As such, 353 Stahl products now have either life cycle assessment (LCA) or product carbon footprint (PCF) data, far exceeding the 2023 target of 50.
 
New ratings and certifications
In 2023, 2,161 of Stahl's products were certified by Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC), in line with ZDHC MRSL V3.1. These products represented 70% of the company’s sales revenue, demonstrating increased demand for coatings with a lower risk to health and the environment.

Stahl was also proud to achieve a Platinum rating from EcoVadis for the second year in a row, which places it in the top 1% of companies evaluated. Stahl also exceeded its 2023 target of an average EcoVadis rating of at least 60/100 for their top ten suppliers, with an average rating of 68/100 reported in December 2023.
Fostering a safe and welcoming work environment

A core pillar of Stahl’s ESG approach is how it supports its employees’ physical and mental well-being. The 2023 ESG Report outlines several examples of this commitment, such as improvement in its key safety KPIs for the third year in a row.

Besides keeping people safe, Stahl continues to make progress in fostering an open and inclusive workplace. For example, in support of diversity, equity and inclusion (DEI), Stahl appointed its first female leadership team member, trained 98% of its staff in DEI and established DEI committees at all Stahl sites. In addition, to strengthen communication, engagement and collaboration across the workforce, Stahl also established an internal workplace hub, MyStahl.

Quickly becoming the benchmark for sustainability, circularity presents a simple solution for many of the world’s complex waste issues. However, in a quickly changing textile marketplace with increasing regulatory pressures, designing circular products can be anything but simple.

To help demystify this accelerating paradigm shift, the Designing for Circularity panel is coming to Portland’s Functional Fabric Fair, where expert panelists will inform and inspire the next generation of product designers and developers.

Scheduled for Wednesday, April 17th at 2:00pm and hosted by textile industry communications agency Formidable Media, the Designing for Circularity panel will bring together experts in materials sourcing, textile finishes, trims, sustainability, recycling, natural materials, and more, to help designers, product developers, and brand representatives make the choices needed to become leaders in the future of sustainable products.

“Fashion is regularly listed among the top five largest polluting industries in the world and our panel of experts hope to  help shape future design and sustainability decisions to mitigate fashion’s outsized impact on the environment,” said Scott Kaier, Founder and President of Formidable Media. “Informed and innovative design is the first step in creating circular products, so today’s designers will be instrumental in creating a cleaner, more sustainable future.”

Hand-picked from across the outdoor, fashion, lifestyle, and footwear industries, the Designing for Circularity panelists include:

• Daniel Uretsky, President, ALLIED Feather + Down
• Martin Flora, VP of Business Development, Green Theme Technologies
• Sarah Schlinger, R&D Commercialization Manager, Woolmark
• Sharon Perez, Senior Business Development Manager, Lenzing Group
• Brian La Plante, Senior Manager of Sustainability, YKK
• Theresa McKenney Director of Sustainability, NEMO Equipment

CARBIOS, a pioneer in the development and industrialization of biological technologies to reinvent the life cycle of plastic and textiles, announces its membership to Paris Good Fashion, the association that unites over 100 French players in the sector - brands, designers and experts - around their commitment to sustainable fashion. CARBIOS is the first recycling technology supplier to join, demonstrating the importance given to recycling to achieve textile circularity. By contributing its solution for the biorecycling of polyester, the world's most widely used and fastest-growing textile fiber, CARBIOS aims to contribute Paris Good Fashion’s mission, which focuses on concrete actions, best practice sharing and collective intelligence to accelerate change in the fashion industry.

CARBIOS will be particularly involved in the association's project to set up a working group dedicated to the development of a "fiber-to-fiber" industry, one of Paris Good Fashion's top priorities over the next five years. While only 1% of textiles are currently recycled fiber-to-fiber (circular), this working group will identify levers for significantly increasing the share of recycled fibers in the industry.  Polyester currently follows a linear model from which we need to break out: virgin polyester is made from petroleum, and recycled polyester from PET bottles. After use, most of these products end their lives in landfill or incineration. A circular, "fiber-to-fiber" industry will give new life to textiles and reduce the environmental impact associated to their end-of-life management.

The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) have modernized and expanded their melt spinning pilot plant with support from the State of Baden-Württemberg. The new facility enables research into new spinning processes, fiber functionalization and sustainable fibers made from biodegradable and bio-based polymers.

In the field of melt spinning, the DITF are working on several pioneering research areas, for example the development of various fibers for medical implants or fibers made from polylactide, a sustainable bio-based polyester. Other focal points include the development of flame-retardant polyamides and their processing into fibers for carpet and automotive applications as well as the development of carbon fibers from melt-spun precursors. The development of a bio-based alternative to petroleum-based polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fibers into polyethylene furanoate (PEF) fibers is also new. Bicomponent spinning technology, in which the fibers can be produced from two different components, plays a particularly important role, too.

Since polyamide (PA) and many other polymers were developed more than 85 years ago, various melt-spun fibers have revolutionized the textile world. In the field of technical textiles, they can have on a variety of functions: depending on their exact composition, they can for example be electrically conductive or luminescent. They can also show antimicrobial properties and be flame-retardant. They are suitable for lightweight construction, for medical applications or for insulating buildings.

In order to protect the environment and resources, the use of bio-based fibers will be increased in the future with a special focus on easy-to-recycle fibers. To this end, the DITF are conducting research into sustainable polyamides, polyesters and polyolefins as well as many other polymers. Many 'classic', that is, petroleum-based polymers cannot or only insufficiently be broken down into their components or recycled directly after use. An important goal of new research work is therefore to further establish systematic recycling methods to produce fibers of the highest possible quality.

For these forward-looking tasks, a bicomponent spinning plant from Oerlikon Neumag was set up and commissioned on an industrial scale at the DITF in January. The BCF process (bulk continuous filaments) allows special bundling, bulking and processing of the (multifilament) fibers. This process enables the large-scale synthesis of carpet yarns as well as staple fiber production, a unique feature in a public research institute. The system is supplemented by a so-called spinline rheometer. This allows a range of measurement-specific chemical and physical data to be recorded online and inline, which will contribute to a better understanding of fiber formation. In addition, a new compounder will be used for the development of functionalized polymers and for the energy-saving thermomechanical recycling of textile waste.

Re:NewCell AB announced that the Stockholm District Court has decided to approve the previously communicated bankruptcy application and has declared the company bankrupt.

The appointed bankruptcy trustee is lawyer Lars-Henrik Andersson at Cirio Advokatbyrå.

February,25 the Board of Directors had decided to file for bankruptcy of Re:NewCell AB at the Stockholm District Court. The reason for the decision to file for bankruptcy was that Re:NewCell has not been able to secure sufficient financing to complete the strategic review, announced on 20 November 2023, with satisfactory result.

As part of the strategic review, Re:NewCell has had well advanced negotiations with its two largest shareholders, H&M and Girindus, its existing lenders BNP Paribas, European Investment Bank, Finnvera (as partial guarantor), Nordea, AB Svensk Exportkredit and potential new investors as well as other stakeholders regarding long-term financing solutions. These discussions have not resulted in a solution which would provide Re:NewCell with the necessary liquidity and capital to ensure its operations going forward.

"I regret to inform that we have been forced to take this decision to file for bankruptcy. As we have a strong belief in the company’s long-term potential, we have together with our advisors spent very substantial time and efforts into trying to secure the necessary liquidity, capital and ownership structure for the company to secure its future. As part of the negotiations, we have had intense dialogues with both current main owners, new investors and our banks, as well as other stakeholders. However, these discussions have not been successful. This is a sad day for the environment, our employees, our shareholders, and our other stakeholders, and it is a testament to the lack of leadership and necessary pace of change in the fashion industry” says Chairman of the Board of Directors, Michael Berg.

CARBIOS and De Smet Engineers & Contractors (DSEC), a provider of Engineering, Procurement and Construction services in the biotech’s and agro-processing industries, announce their collaboration to spearhead the construction of the world's first PET biorecycling plant. Under the agreement, De Smet has been entrusted with the project management and detailed engineering, including procurement assistance and CARBIOS partners’ management, to ensure the execution of the plant's construction in Longlaville, France, due for commissioning in 2025.  CARBIOS’ first commercial facility will play a key role in the fight against plastic pollution by offering an industrial-scale solution for the enzymatic depolymerization of PET waste to accelerate a circular economy for plastic and textiles.

With over 70 members of De Smet's expert team dedicated to the project and working alongside CARBIOS teams, the collaboration aims to guarantee the project timeline and budget while upholding quality, safety, health, and environmental standards. Construction is currently underway and on schedule.

Wie unterscheiden sich Wiederverwendung und Recycling? Wie ist der deutsche Begriff Mehrweg zu verwenden, wie grenzt er sich von Einweg ab? Für welche Bewertung sind Wiedereinsatzquoten sinnvoller als Recyclingquoten? Antworten auf diese nicht zuletzt durch die PPWR (Packaging & Packaging Waste Regulation der EU) aufgeworfenen Fragen und kurze Erläuterungen zu Begrifflichkeiten der Kreislaufführung von Verpackungen liefert das neue auf Deutsch und Englisch erschienene »Mehrweg-Glossar/Glossary on Reuse«. Das Fraunhofer-Institut für Umwelt-, Sicherheits- und Energietechnik UMSICHT und das Fraunhofer-Institut für Materialfluss und Logistik IML erstellten dies im Auftrag der Stiftung Initiative Mehrweg, um Klarheit in die oft nicht trennscharfen Begrifflichkeiten rund um Wiederverwendung und die Circular Economy zu bringen.

Das rund 40 Seiten umfassende, zweisprachige Glossar hat das Ziel, Beschreibungen und Vergleiche im Bereich der wiederverwendbaren und rezyklierbaren Verpackungssysteme zu schärfen. Das Werk soll als Arbeitshilfe dienen, um die Kommunikation zwischen Wissenschaft, Politik, Unternehmen und Verbraucher*innen zu erleichtern. Begrifflichkeiten wie Recycling, Reutilization, Einweg, Mehrweg oder Recyclingquoten sind omnipräsent, jedoch nicht immer trennscharf definiert. Beispielsweise werden Wiederverwendung und Recycling manchmal als konkurrierende Verfahren angesehen, manchmal fungiert Recycling als Oberbegriff, manchmal Wiederverwendung. »In diesem Glossar betrachten wir die Wiederverwendung als zerstörungsfreie Kreislaufführung, d.h. das Objekt und seine Form bleiben erhalten, während das Recycling einen zerstörenden Aufbereitungsprozess beschreibt, bei dem es vor allem um den Stofferhalt geht«, gibt Jürgen Bertling von Fraunhofer UMSICHT und Mitautor des Glossars einen Einblick.

Das Glossar ist in vier Kapitel unterteilt: Zunächst erläutert das Autorenteam relevante Aspekte für den Vergleich von Verpackungssystemen, das nächste Kapitel enthält Übersichtsgrafiken zu Verpackungstypen in Abhängigkeit ihrer Kreislauffähigkeit und eine schematische Darstellung verbundener Kreisläufe. Die Definitionen aller relevanten Begrifflichkeiten wie z. B. Wiederverwendung und Weiterverwendung sowie eine Abgrenzung und Einordnung der im Deutschen verwendeten Begrifflichkeiten Einweg und Mehrweg finden sich im dritten Kapitel. Das Glossar schließt mit einem Kapitel zu Formeln und Formelzeichen für Berechnungen, die zu einer möglichst allgemeinverständlichen Schreibweise in wissenschaftlich-technischen Analysen beitragen sollen.

Das Glossar ist frei zugänglich und kann unter diesem Link heruntergeladen werden.

“From Earth to Earth”: The new plan defines goals and concrete actions in Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) areas to foster value creation for all stakeholders and put new sustainability regulatory requirements at the centre of attention.

A project, designed to enhance RadiciGroup's transparency and commitment to develop a responsible business along its entire value chain from an economic, social and environmental perspective and focus on the ever more widespread and stringent sustainability regulatory requirements. These are the features and goals of the Sustainability Plan presented by the Group and called "From Earth to Earth", precisely to emphasize the intent to focus on the Earth and future generations.

In the context of a complex and constantly changing scenario, the Group has therefore decided to capitalize on the goals achieved and look beyond them with a plan defining the medium-term targets and the actions to be taken to fulfil them and covering all areas considered to be "material”, i.e., relevant from the point of view of ESG and financial risks, opportunities and impacts. Indeed, the ultimate goal of "From Earth to Earth" is to support business continuity and the growth of the company and all its stakeholders.

The project was the result of a multi-year collaboration with Deloitte, which contributed an external and objective viewpoint on the definition of the material targets and themes. However, it was not an armchair exercise, but the result of an extensive listening process involving internal and external stakeholders, all of whom were sustainability experts who helped define a shortlist of strategic themes for both the Group and its main stakeholders. These issues were then analysed in detail using working tables on the different themes to identify the objectives in Environmental, Social and Governance areas and the related concrete actions needed to achieve them, in line with the European decarbonization and energy transition policies and the
United Nations Sustainable Development Goals, a global blueprint for sustainable growth.

In particular, RadiciGroup’s environmental goals include: a 20% increase and differentiation in renewable source electricity consumption, an 80% reduction in total direct greenhouse gas emissions by 2030 compared to 2011, attention to water consumption to limit the impact on local communities and biodiversity, the extension of Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) methodology to measure the environmental impact of 70% of the products (in terms of weight) manufactured by the entire Group, collaboration among the various actors in the supply chain from an ecodesign perspective and the search for increasingly more sustainable and circular packaging solutions.

RUDOLF announces a significant leap in textile performance with the introduction of bio-based innovations for its HYDROCOOL® technology, a moisture management product line.

HYDROCOOL® technologies have long been the standard for wicking moisture away from the skin to keep athletes and active people comfortable and dry. RUDOLF has taken this performance to a higher level with the integration of bio-based raw materials and their new products, RUCO®-PUR BIO SLB and FERAN® BIO ICR. These bio-based ingredients, derived from renewable sources offering:

• Reduced environmental impact: By using bio-based materials, RUDOLF reduces its reliance on traditional petroleum-based raw materials, minimizing the environmental footprint of its products.
• High performance: The new bio-based formulations are as efficient as the traditional HYDROCOOL® products and offer maximum wash resistance.
• RUCO®-PUR BIO SLB is a bio-based finishing agent that is ideal for synthetics, cellulosic and blends. It offers a bio-based content of 43% and is therefore an important step towards a more sustainable textile industry.
• FERAN® BIO ICR is a bio-based soil release agent specially developed for polyester and its blends. It has a 87% bio-based content, further underlining the commitment from RUDOLF for sustainable innovation.

The Fashion for Good museum in Amsterdam marks its 6 year journey with a special fashion exhibition focused on circularity, called What Goes Around Comes Around. Honing in on how circularity plays out in different circles of influence, the exhibition showcases inspirational displays that make tangible what a circular fashion industry will look like.

What Goes Around Comes Around pays homage to the extraordinary work of pioneering artists, innovators and designers working to shift the fashion industry with new solutions. The exhibition opens January 27, 2024 and will be open to the public for 5 months. It is the grand finale, as the Museum is closing its doors. As such it will be the Museum’s final call to collective action, which the fashion industry still so highly needs.

“We are highlighting three areas in What Goes Around Comes Around", explains curator Sophie Jager-van Duren at the Fashion for Good Museum. “First: new work by local artists Atelier Reservé and The Patchwork Family, design collectives working towards circularity, demonstrating what is happening right now. We are also showing looks from established designers BOTTER, Ronald van der Kemp and Marga Weimans, Yuima Nakazato and Nicole McLaughlin. Second, the community, with an installation for visitors to participate in, planting the seed that we need each other to change the fashion system. Lastly, the industry - honing in on examples of innovations and technologies. We invited designers to create new work with circular materials including Living Ink, MIRUM, Altmat and Biophilica.”

Today’s fashion industry is caught in a vicious cycle of ‘take-make-waste’ and this system has a growing negative impact on people and the planet. For instance, in Europe, the average consumer is responsible for 15 kilos of textile waste per year and these numbers are increasing. To address this, we need action from individuals, the industry and society alike to go from a linear take-make-waste model into one that is circular by design.

The Fashion for Good Museum is inviting anybody to come visit its final exhibition and learn from concrete examples, to understand the current state of the fashion industry, gain the tools for taking individual or collective action and be inspired by circular fashion available today.

Designing for circularity means designing without creating waste or pollution, as all materials are continually reused instead of discarded. A circular system is restorative and regenerative and reduces pressure on natural resources. The ultimate goal of the exhibition is to put circularity into practice, help people envision a circular economy based on community practices and empower visitors to take collective action, starting in the museum but extending to their homes and daily lives.

Through the exhibition and its public programme, which consists of interactive workshops and educational events, the museum functions as a community space where visitors are invited to learn, gain new perspectives and are exposed to inspiring examples, building the skills and knowledge to create positive change. The upcoming few months there are multiple events, educational toolkits and other opportunities to join us, all open for the public, keep an eye out on our website and social media channels for the latest updates.

The exhibition is open for the public from Saturday 27th of January until June 5th 2024, marking World Environment Day on June 5th as the final closing day of the museum.