From the Sector

Monforts has installed and commissioned a new Montex finishing range at the Baltic Works of Halley Stevensons in Dundee, Scotland, to further boost the weatherproofing specialist’s highly flexible operations.

The range, with a working width of two metres, was built at the Montex assembly plant in Austria and consists of a Montex®Coat coating unit in knife execution for paste and foam coating and a Montex 8500 6F stenter.

Founded in 1864, Halley Stevensons has amassed unique technical know-how and manufacturing experience in the art of waxed cotton for weatherproofed fabrics and is able to provide international orders in custom colours and finishes to very low minimum quantities where required. The company exports worldwide and its premium brand customers include Belstaff, Barbours, Filson and J.Crew.

The range has replaced one of the company’s older stenter/coating lines and has already enabled Halley Stevensons to recreate various products with lower coating applications at higher speeds than was previously possible.

Waxed cotton was originally developed by sailors in the early 15th century when Scottish North Sea herring fleets began treating flax sailcloth with fish oils and grease in an attempt to waterproof their sails. Remnants of these sails were used by the sailors as capes to withstand the high winds and sea spray.

By the mid 1850s, sailcloth was being treated with linseed oil, but while initially highly effective, it would yellow and stiffen through weathering over time and eventually lose its waterproofing qualities.

In the years that followed, various treatments were applied to cottons in an attempt to find the most effective weatherproofing solution, and the combination of densely-woven cotton impregnated with a paraffin waxed coating proved most successful. For over 150 years, Halley Stevensons created many different variations of both woven constructions and finishing treatments and now supplies thousands of metres of waxed cotton every year, with each roll produced to custom specifications.

“The beauty of waxed cotton is its durability and longevity,” says Managing Director James Campbell. “The fabrics are breathable, with the wax adjusting to ambient temperatures to be softer and more breathable in warm weather and stiffer and more wind proof in cold conditions.”
While traditional waxes are petroleum or paraffin based, Halley Stevensons has always been comfortable about using a waste product from industry and reusing it to make products that last a lifetime.  

“We are always exploring different finishing techniques and one of our most popular finishes is our hybrid aero – an emulsified blend of waxes,” Campbell says. “This fabric is water repellent but has little wax in the mixture so the handle is much drier to touch than the traditional wet waxes.”

The company has also recently launched a new 100% plant-based wax – Ever Wax Olive – consisting of a blend of olive oil, rape seed and castor bean with comparable water repellence to petroleum and a far better rating than other natural waxes which have come before it.

“The high tradition of skills and fabric innovation imposed by our original guildsmen is still our benchmark standard of honest workmanship today,” Managing Director James Campbell concludes “We use responsibly sourced cotton fabrics and processes that are gentle to the product and low impact to the environment. Our dyeing methods use very low levels of water and our waxes are simply heated up for application and cooled down to store when not in use, meaning no waste discharges. Now, with this new Monforts line, we are also achieving running speeds two-to-three times faster than with the older stenter, combined with less gas usage. It’s proved a great partnership.”

• Huntsman Textile Effects presents range of high-performance solutions for performance apparel

Huntsman Textile Effects, global leader in innovative solutions and environmentally sustainable products, will highlight its extensive end-to-end suite of protection effects and high-performance solutions for performance apparel at the Performance Days Digital Fair Week this May. Huntsman will also deliver a presentation on sustainability, showcasing the top megatrends impacting the textile industry.

With increasing adoption of active lifestyles and outdoor activities, consumers are demanding high-performance, yet comfortable and sustainably-produced sportswear. Consumers are looking for brands that incorporate sustainable processes and principles in their operations.

“The upward trend in the performance apparel segment is spurred on by the demands and evolving needs of consumers; sustainability also remains the top of mind amongst these consumers. At Huntsman, we are delighted to be able showcase our suite of solutions that are high-performing and sustainable, so that mills and brands are better able to meet the fast-changing market needs,” said Dhirendra Gautam, Senior Director – Global Market Strategy and Innovation, Huntsman Textile Effects.

Huntsman’s featured solutions:

• Complete end-to-end systems for protection effects, from pre-treatment to coloration and finishing
• Revolutionary antimicrobial and odor-control solutions from Sciessent - The Agion®, Lava X2® and Active X2® products will be featured at the upcoming show
• HIGH IQ® intelligent effects is a set of brand assurance programs that support accelerated evaporation, water and stain repellence, lasting color and cool comfort, ensuring garments dry quickly for long-lasting comfort

Performance Days Digital Fair Week will take place digitally from May 17-21, 2021. Huntsman will also deliver a presentation on May 18, 2021, at 2 p.m. (CEST) at the Expert Talk session. Titled “Sustainability & Textiles: Being the Change That We Want to See”, the presentation will showcase the megatrends that will define the next five years, and the textile and apparel industries’ quest for more sustainable design, product development, production methods and garment care.

• Performance assurance program for textiles with advanced moisture management technology

Huntsman Textile Effects has extended its HIGH IQ® performance assurance program to help mills, brands and retailers meet consumer demand for garments with durable moisture management. HIGH IQ® Cool Comfort performance program is built on the industry’s broadest and most advanced moisture management agents to deliver durable, long-lasting performance.
As consumers around the world adopt more active lifestyles and outdoor activities, the need for cool, dry and comfortable sports and athleisure wear is on an upward trend.
HIGH IQ® Cool Comfort performance program allows garments to breathe, while at the same time, transports moisture away from the body. This ensures consumers can stay cool, dry and fresh throughout. The unique technology supports accelerated evaporation, ensuring garments dry quickly for long-lasting comfort.

“Today’s consumer seeks comfort and performance in their active lifestyle. With Huntsman’s HIGH IQ® Cool Comfort performance assurance program, we offer durable moisture management so your garment remains breathable, stays cool and attains the comfort of cotton. Unique quick-dry properties created by the natural microclimate of the garment help to reduce post-exercise chill, making the effects highly suitable for sports and active wear,” said Lee Howarth, Global Marketing Manager, Huntsman Textile Effects.
Only mills that meet Huntsman’s stringent requirements earn the right to use the HIGH IQ® performance assurance hang tags as point-of-sale product branding. Updated hangtags and promotional materials are available to support mills and brands in communicating the benefits of the HIGH IQ® Cool Comfort performance assurance program.

The technology that drives the HIGH IQ® Cool Comfort program complies with the requirements of bluesign® for safe and sustainable textile production. Furthermore, fabrics produced with HIGH IQ® Cool Comfort moisture management are suitable for STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® certified textile products. The global leader in intelligent effects, Huntsman Textile Effects developed the HIGH IQ® global performance assurance program to help mills, brands and retailers produce high-performance textiles with built-in sun protection, freshness, friction protection and water repellence, in bright whites and color that lasts. The program is based on innovative dyes and effects and unparalleled technical support and application know-how from Huntsman Textile Effects to help mills improve their productivity and competitiveness.