From the Sector

• Dibella increases the use of Cotton made in Africa cotton according to the mass balance system from 300,000kg in 2023 to 750,000kg in 2024.

With Cotton made in Africa (CmiA), Dibella is making its business model even more sustainable. This enables the company to minimise its environmental impact and support the people in the growing regions. Dibella relies on the CmiA mass balance system in the chain to achieve its corporate goal of "increasing the use of sustainable fibres".

Cotton made in Africa initiative is an internationally recognised standard for sustainable cotton grown by African smallholder farmers. With up to 13% less greenhouse gas emissions, CmiA-verified cotton has a significantly lower impact on the environment than the global average and also supports village communities in Africa beyond sustainable cotton cultivation. CmiA supports smallholder farmers in sub-Saharan Africa in the sustainable cultivation of genetically unmodified cotton and is committed to improving working conditions in ginning factories. Through a licence fee, which is paid by customers like Dibella, the farmers receive training and access to operating resources in order to reduce the use of pesticides and increase the quality of their cotton and yields from their fields at the same time.

Cotton made in Africa takes a pragmatic approach to the processing of its cotton with two different models in order to best meet the demands for transparency and feasibility in the chain: The Hard Identity Preserved System and the Mass Balance System; Dibella has opted for the latter. While CmiA-verified cotton is always traded separately from other cotton right up to the spinning mill and can therefore be traced seamlessly from the growing region to the ginning plant to the spinning mill, the mass balance system allows CmiA cotton to be mixed with cotton of other origins at the spinning mill level as long as a balance between cotton purchases and CmiA-labelled yarns is ensured. This principle ensures the purchase of sustainably grown fibres and helps Dibella to bring a larger quantity of sustainable cotton into its textile cycle, which ultimately benefits smallholder farmers.

IFFAC (Impact Fund for African Creatives) has revealed plans which will revolutionise West African textile and garment production at one stroke. The fund is converting a partially disused textile mill in the region into a hi-tech centre for processing local cotton and recycling waste fabric, to produce both fabric for further processing and new clothes. The mill will be equipped with modern equipment, all sustainably powered by hydroelectricity from the nearby Volta Dam.

West Africa grows about 6% of the world’s cotton but only a tiny fraction of that crop is processed on the continent, the vast majority being shipped thousands of miles to Asia before being shipped back again as finished or part-finished fabrics. The mill project will end the continent’s reliance on such an unsustainable practice with all the obvious financial and environmental benefits.

As well as producing fabric from sustainably grown virgin cotton, a joint venture with Shandong-based WOL Textiles Ltd., a privately owned plant that has long supplied the African market, the mill will be home to a state-of-the-art shredding and recycling facility, a joint venture between IFFAC and the Dutch Circularity B.V. CEO Han Hamers of Circularity B.V. in The Netherlands, has been involved in the production of 100% circular knit and woven articles.

The mill project is expected to create over a thousand jobs. The surrounding area already boasts a significant number of experienced textile workers ready to be retrained on the new equipment. While the majority of the products created will be sold within the region, all processes will confirm to new EU Supply Chain Law to allow for the possibility of export.  

Output is forecast at six million pieces of finished clothing and twenty-five million metres of spun and woven cloth per year. In total, thirty million US$ of investment will be made in the site with operations ready to begin next year (2023).