From the Sector

Candiani launches at Kingpins its new eco-smart denim range in partnership with ROICA™ from Asahi Kasei.

Both companies can claim their separate leading roles in textile innovation. Candiani, ‘the Greenest Mill in The Blue World’, is always at the cutting edge of new developments, and ROICA™ with its various premium stretch functions. Now they join forces through a unique synergy and an exclusive, custom made premium stretch sustainable ROICA™ yarn developed by Asahi Kasei especially for Candiani.

ReLAST is a range of market fresh responsible denim products, designed by Candiani that tick every smart box: from new ways in colouration, to better, more sustainable raw materials, new finishing and fade-tech that minimises water waste, and now with a key responsible stretch ingredient in a specially produced GRS certified ROICA™ yarn that perfectly completes this range making better, more sustainable, sharp fashions for customers looking to live and wear better with better values.

New Colouration values in the K-Seal range come from indigo applied with a water saving Indigo Juice® system. Or in the KN-Cotton range from cotton scraps recycled and dyed with Archroma earth colours. Both are sized with the Kitotex® Vegetal size derived from plants and natural renewables.
KN-Blue and Regen ranges use Sulfur dye and conventional Indigo dye using N-Denim tech and water saving Indigo Juice® respectively. The Regen range also uses Tencel and Refbra materials from Lenzing to add softness and a luxe touch to denims of the future.

All ranges in the ReLAST collection deploy the customized ROICA™ advanced sustainable stretch yarns.

With the ReLAST collection from Candiani and ROICA™ from Asahi Kasei rewrite the rules for responsible denim stretch manufacture, designing fashion forward denims that are now guaranteed completely 100% sustainable.

The evidence for excellence is underpinned by a qualified list of certifications that include GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) and GRS(Global Recycled Standard), Recycled Cotton Certification as well as registered affiliated processing methods for saving water (Kitotex® and Indigo Juice®). Branded raw materials with confirmed responsible status include Tencel and Refibra from Lenzing, Q-Nova recycled polyamide and of course the newly developed ROICA™ advanced fit, premium stretch yarn with full GRS certification.

Dedication to reaching the same goal pays off with the ReLast collection, a collaborative partnership with Candiani and ROICA™.

The presentation of the Bemberg™ new campaign represents a high benchmark in value for smart textile fiber innovations. Bemberg™ is the ONE new material definition for responsible luxury. The ONE for cool exquisite comfort, and the ONE whose smart heritage is born in a circular economy.
 
Made since 1931 by Asahi Kasei, which is the sole maker of this one-of-a-kind, matchless, high-tech natural material, with a unique and precious touch and feel. The new campaign will amplify this uniqueness and innate smartness, redefining the brand voice as Bemberg™ at an international level with an openness and positive approach that facilitates a stronger, more focused role in the market while supporting our partner’s strengths too. It is not just another brand name, but about enhancing core values through a now even better, more refined product and process that supports our partner’s mission to materially benefit the whole supply chain.

• Textile Exchange’s Sustainability Conference - Milan, October 22-24, 2018
• The theme of the 2018 conference is United by Action: Accelerating Sustainability in Textiles and Fashion.

The conference offers an opportunity to connect with industry pioneers and learn about cutting edge solutions and innovations in textile and apparel sustainability. As a result, C.L.A.S.S., headquartered in Milan, the global resource for smart material innovation, education, marketing and communication, will be on hand to support this year’s theme.

Many of the materials the C.L.A.S.S. team will showcase speak to circular economy such as Re.VerSo™, Bemberg™ and ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei, Iluna Group and TINTEX Textiles and many others that use technological breakthroughs to offer fashion materials that provide significant reductions in water during the manufacturing process, an important step toward responsible future fashion systems.

During Textile Exchange’s Sustainability Conference, Giusy Bettoni, C.L.A.S.S. CEO and Founder and her team will have a dedicated space to engage attendees in an open discussion regarding the importance of fashion business strategies. The experience in the space, that will reflect an New York event created for C.L.A.S.S. by Ginger Design, will start with the vision of a film by Cristina Picchi that represents harmony between the various phases of the textile process and the cycles of natural elements. Visitors will walk through a three-dimensional installation designed by Cécile Feilchenfeldt to inspire creativity and explore the limitless possibilities using innovative smart materials.

“We are always proud to have a presence at international events including this year’s Textile Exchange’s Sustainability Conference. It is a great way for us to share our expertise regarding responsible innovation and new business model strategies. As C.L.A.S.S. is headquartered in Milan, we are proud that they selected our city for this year’s conference. Being held in Milan provides a chance for us to support Textile Exchange regarding smart material innovation, many of them produced in Italy.” said Bettoni.

Just off their return from Première Vision in Paris, Bettoni who is also the Sustainability Consultant for Smart Creation, recognizes the importance for her company to have a strong international presence to spread C.L.A.S.S.’ message to a global audience regarding responsible creation. 

As C.L.A.S.S. enters their second decade of business, they have expanded their business activities to include e-commerce that provides an opportunity for fashion start-up to purchase up to a maximum of 50, an initiative launched to support fashion start-ups. And a new division, C.L.A.S.S. Education, an initiative Bettoni co-founded with James Mendolia, also a Professor, Fashion Institute of Technology. Mendolia has been visiting universities to speak to fashion design, business, textiles and production students in Europe, Asia and North America to encourage attendees to infuse a new way of design thinking and move from a linear to a circular business model.   

• @ Premiere Vision, Paris, 19-21st September, Booth 6G62 - 6H63

The story of a Bemberg™ heritage that has shaped a new future for smart innovation through research, knowledge and expertise to deliver the new face of Bemberg™, the one true original material for modern living. The presentation of the Bemberg™ new campaign represents a high benchmark in value for smart textile fiber innovations, and one that is built on a long heritage of innovations since 1931. Bemberg™ is the ONE new material definition for responsible luxury. The ONE for cool exquisite comfort, and the ONE whose smart heritage is born in a circular economy.

Made by Asahi Kasei, the company is the sole maker of this one-of-a-kind, matchless, high-tech natural material, with a unique and precious touch and feel. The new campaign will amplify this uniqueness and innate smartness, redefining the brand voice as Bemberg™ at an international level with an openness and positive approach that facilitates a stronger, more focused role in the market while supporting our partner’s strengths too.

It is not just another brand name, but about enhancing core values through a now even better, more refined product and process that supports our partner’s mission to materially benefit the whole supply chain with beautiful products and open, honest communication. This is the key reason to launch the Bemberg™ global brand, taking the next steps on a journey that redefines a new future of contemporary luxury this unique fiber represents.

And for this, European manufacture is playing its key role in the global role out of the latest Bemberg™ innovations. Pioneering partner mills featured at the booth include: Euromaglia, Fiveol Textil, Infinity, Ipeker, Jackytex, Lanificio Europa, O’Jersey, SMI Tessuti, Tessitura Uboldi Luigi, TINTEX Textiles, Brunello, G.I. Tessil Foderami, Gianni Crespi Foderami, Manifattura Pezzetti, Marco Pastorelli and more. The new Bemberg™ booth at Premiere Vision is a contemporary and clean vision of the brand with a glowing, whitened atmosphere of modern architecture and luminous lighting that perfectly frames the new and dynamic identity image to reveal the ‘preciousness’ essence of the brand, its amazing textiles and leading fashion innovations.

Come and review the 3 fabric galleries, each showing the latest and unique fabric designs for Fashion Forward looks, refined Jersey Dressing and Luxury Athleisure Loungewear. Fashions by Maison Margiela confirm the new status of Bemberg™ as the ONE fiber that moves the luxury of Touch to a new contemporary fashion Feel: the ONE for a cool, liquid drape and movement: the ONE for fresh, exquisite comfort, and the ONE smart material born in the circular economy.

The Bemberg™ new campaign

We show a vision from the past in a true classic vintage sheath dress from the 1991 Martin Margiela winter collection using a peach skin finish on a refined, parachute-light fabric in a signature gunmetal grey colour courtesy of Zohra Alami. And also a contemporary representation of fashion from the MM6 MAISON MARGIELA SS2018 collection with a lingerie inspired dressy style in Bemberg™ popeline. This is a multifunctional style to be used as a top or as a dress

A new technical advance in finishing from Asahi Kasei is presented at the booth. Called Velutine Evo, the finish is comparable to premium peach skin finishes today, but now with a better environmental profile by using less water and energy to produce a durable and refined finish that sets a new benchmark for everyday luxury, demonstrating the company’s ongoing commitment to R&D in smarter, market relevant innovations. The results are supported by a preliminary study carried out by ICEA according to the methodology of Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) 3rd party testing from ICEA, on datas provided by TIFAS and focusing on environmental benefits that will accrue to partners efforts to offer value with values.

Moreover, you will be able to enjoy the circularity of the Bemberg™ story: its source, manufacture and end-of-life credentials, as well as checking the LCA study, also signed by ICEA and validated by Paolo Masoni, a step that confirms a new quality profile and standard for Bemberg™ with a more responsible and unique position today. Full GRS certification, Oeko-Tex 100, ISO 14001, & Eco-Mark.
Also Bemberg™ can add to its premium position on responsible issues, starting from its raw material choice that clearly demonstrates its circular economy approach. Bemberg™ is made from a cotton linter bio-utility waste, a natural derived and abundant source, and a truly unique one in the smart fiber arena that doesn’t deplete food or forestry resources.

Bemberg™ has new Compostability Certification. Innovhub-SSI report confirms Bemberg™ filaments disintegrate at 100% value within the limits specified by the UNI EN 13432, point A.3.1 for disintegration in the composting process. Also related is a new Ecotoxicity metric to EN 13432:2000 Annex E, the compost obtained from the Bemberg™ filaments according to ISO 16929:2013 revealed the absence of any ecotoxicity effect respect higher plants. The Bemberg™ filaments tested for the presence of heavy metals and other toxic hazardous substances comply with the requirements specified by the UNI EN 13432, for the substances listed in table A.1.

Asahi Kasei is proud to present the Bemberg™ heritage that delivers a true precious uniqueness through responsible smart innovation and transparency. To make contemporary luxury materials that provoke emotive responses through its rarity, sensuality, research and creativity. The ingrained knowledge and know-how behind the brand adds value to the supply chain, working only with the best, amplifying our partner’s knowledge and dynamic commitment too.

EUROBIKE, the world’s leading trade fair for the cycling industry, included ROICA™ smart innovations into the race. Cycle retailers, brands and manufacturers discovered ROICA™ premium stretch that provides comfort and movement as it energizes.

ROICA™ joined this year’s EUROBIKE Academy line-up and host an interactive panel focused on sustainability as an added value for the cycling market. Whether an expert or newcomer, the must attend panel titled; What is Smart Innovation in the Biking Market? was held on Monday, July 9th from 12:00-12:45 in Conference Center East, Room London. Moderated by Giusy Bettoni, CEO, C.L.A.S.S. (Creativity Lifestyle And Sustainable Synergy), a Milan based company generating global strategies and identifying new values essential for today’s knowledgeable conscious consumer. The panel led the way, as they shared their expertise and discuss what they are doing to push the boundaries of innovation. They will highlight responsible dimensions and processes currently available. The all-star lineup includes:

Uwe Schmidt, Asahi Kasei’s ROICA™, Managing Director introduces cycle enthusiasts, brands, retailers and manufacturers to the world’s first premium sustainable stretch yarn: ROICA™ Eco-Smart and the ROICA™ Feel Good family dedicated to well-being.
 
Laura Gambarini, marketing and communication manager at M.I.T.I. S.p.A.: M.I.T.I. Since 1931, M.I.T.I. develops and creates premium and innovative stretch warp knitted fabrics for all the high performance sports. Cycling brands recognize M.I.T.I. as the market leader for the outstanding features of their innovative fabrics. Green soul is their ultimate creation, the first fully sustainable stretch warp knitted range of fabrics in the world, created with ROICA™ Eco-Smart family for the new generation sustainable performance garments.
 
Sven Koehler, Head of production Maloja Clothing GmbH: Maloja, an outdoor specialty brand with its roots in nature and wellbeing have developed new amazing biking sets constructed of M.I.T.I. SpA fabrics using certified yarns belonging to ROICA™ Eco-Smart family.
 
Sergio Alibrandi, Executive Marketing Director Sitip S.p.A.: SITIP creates high-tech innovative sports fabrics that are made in Italy and optimize the latest technology. Committed to smart innovation, learn how they developed their ground-breaking multi-panel thermal bib tights able to generate heat for riders that want to conquer cold winter training. Made from BeHOT fabric constructed with ROICA™ StretchEnergy™, the next level of well-being providing a new dimension to active performance.  The audience will learn how leading international cycling brand Santini is using BeHOT with ROICA™ on select products to generate additional heat – up to 2 degrees C as the cyclist moves their body, thanks to ground-breaking heat generating technology as certified by CeRism, Outdoor Sport Research Centre at Verona University.
 
 Witness ROICA™ partners as leaders in high-tech performance fabrics for the world of sports for riders that want to stand out. The unbeatable collection of well-constructed fabrics that revolutionize the premium stretch market at the following EUROBIKE Exhibitors:

• M.I.T.I. SpA (IT)
• Maglificio Ripa (IT)
• Piave Maitex (IT)
• SITIP SpA (IT)
• SOFILETA (FR)
• Sportwear Argentona S.A. (ES)

In line with the powerful global trend towards smarter fashion solutions, Iluna Group launches its Embroidery Division. Specialists in lace since 1985, the new Embroidery Division offers a complete and innovative product match in line with the modern expectations of brands and retailers. Staying true to Iluna’s DNA, the introduction of embroidery and guipure are all produced with only recycled materials.
IIn addition to the launch of the Embroidery Division, this season novelties include:

1. Of major interest today, the launch of velvet lace entirely made of sustainable materials including ROICA™ Eco-Smart family.

2. Within the Black Label collection, the Ultralight series is enriched with new multicolor floral galloons: here Iluna changes the color of the thread not only in the background, but also in the design, the same article reinvents itself in a variety of great visual impact.

3. Green Label collection, the Iluna dedicated range featuring a new responsible approach in respect of the planet and people, able to deliver innovation, beauty and quality, at 360°. In addition to the all over, jacquard, double jacquard and mesh offer, the line is also featuring new stretch Galloon laces fully made with GRS certified recycled materials, including the stretch thanks to the introduction of the unique ROICA™ sustainable yarn part of the ROICA™ Eco-Smart family.

4. ILUNA has strategically included in all their stretch laces only ROICA™ Eco-Smart family of sustainable yarns since some time.

5. ILUNA can also boast its new STeP (Sustainable Textile Production) certification by Oeko-Tex, a certification that clarifies and communicates the company’s sustainable production commitment. In addition to this, all products are Oeko-Tex 100 certified.

6. ILUNA has created the new e-shop offering its exclusive materials to smaller companies looking for added values as: creativity, innovation, made in Italy and responsibility.

7. The whole collection is also visible online at its web site, previous registration, and orders can be done directly online always aiming to customers care.

On Thursday, March 22nd, C.L.A.S.S., with support from the Council of Fashion  Designers  of  America  (CFDA),  hosted  an  intimate  gathering  of  fashion’s  industry  leaders, educators, designers and members of the press to celebrate An Evening of Smart Innovation.

The event was beautifully orchestrated by Ginger Design, an exceptional team of Italian creatives, filmmakers, food and  textile  designers  as  a  way  to  create  a  unique  immersive  experience  telling  the  story  of  C.L.A.S.S.’ visionary journey. Thus, providing guests with an awareness and chance to embrace knowledge related to four key areas that set new standards for fashion vital to C.L.A.S.S.’ business philosophy:  Heritage, Smart Innovation, Circular Economy and Design Responsibility.

Imagination and responsibility at the forefront of the event, guests entered to view a film by Cristina Picchi that  represented harmony  between the various  phases  of  the  textile  process  and  the  cycles  of  natural elements.

The piece de resistance was a three-dimensional installation designed by Cécile Feilchenfeldt that  contained  exquisite  knits  allowing  guests  to  walk  through  the area to  inspire creativity and explore the  limitless possibilities using innovative  smart  materials.  So,  with  responsible  design  in  mind  the guests  were  able  to  touch  and  feel  the  luxurious  smart  textiles supported  by  sustainable  credentials  from  Bacx  by  Centro  Seta, Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei, ECOTEC® by Marchi & Fildi, Organic Cotton  Colours,  Re.VerSo™,  ROICA™  by  Asahi  Kasei,  TINTEX Textiles, and Zignone. The new generation of beautiful cottons, rich silks, lush wools and opulent cashmeres showcased throughout the C.L.A.S.S. event currently available to the market.

Giusy Bettoni and the C.L.A.S.S. team from Milan and New  York, as well as several of their partner representatives from around the globe  were  on  hand  to  engage  designers  and  educators  and answer   questions   related   to   smart   materials   and   processes. Designers  and  educators  were  pleased  to  learn  about  the  new C.L.A.S.S. e-commerce site dedicated to emerging designers and fashion  startups,  as  well as  new  details  regarding  C.L.A.S.S. Education  as  a  university   learning  resource,  co-founded   with James  Mendolia,  FIT  Professor,  MFA  Fashion  Design  and  FIT Sustainability Council Member.

Attendees included: Julien Labat, president of Edun and Marilyn Balkaransingh Director of  Fabric  R&D of  Edun, J.R.  Campbell  and  Young  Kim  Thanos of Kent State’s School of Design and Merchandising, Lisa Smilor and Stephanie  Soto of  CFDA,  Nomi  Dale  Kleinman of  FIT,  Susan Easton, founder   of   From   the   Road,   Nicole   Fischelis,   Heron Preston, Luciana Scrutchen of Parsons School of Design and Kay Unger, chair of the Board of Governors for Parsons, among others.
 

On Thursday, March 22nd, C.L.A.S.S., with support from the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), will invite fashion’s industry leaders, designers and members of the press to celebrate An Evening of Smart Innovation.  An exceptional team of artists, filmmakers, food and textile designers have created an immersive experience that will engage the guests’ senses highlighting that smart innovation is the new standard for fashion. The experience will examine the four key areas that are vital to C.L.A.S.S.’s business philosophy: Heritage - Smart Innovation - Circular Economy - Design Responsibility. The commitment to those principles and to forward thinking led to C.L.A.S.S. having been nominated as one of the European Business Awards 2017/2018 Ones to Watch for exceptional growth, significant innovation along with an ethical approach to business.

The March 22nd date is a deliberate choice as it marks International Water Day and serves as a way to advocate for sustainable water management, a key issue in textile manufacturing. Many of C.L.A.S.S.’s partners, such as ECOTEC® by Marchi&Fildi, Bemberg™ and ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei and TINTEX Textiles use technological breakthroughs to offer fashion materials that provide significant reductions in water during the manufacturing process, an important step toward responsible future fashion systems.

“In touting significant reductions in water, energy usage and CO2 emissions, C.L.A.S.S.’s  message has always been one of consistency but now with today’s customers becoming increasingly environmentally mindful, the timing has never been better to bring awareness to the ways that responsible sustainability can be incorporated, in an authentic way, into a fashion or lifestyle brand increasing the bottom line without compromising design integrity,” said C.L.A.S.S. founder Giusy Bettoni.

The future is already here; guests can see and feel materials during the event that showcase technological breakthroughs currently available. While C.L.A.S.S. works with leading brands that practice responsible design, the next step is to expand their reach and set a new level of standards that benefit the entire industry. To that end, they have identified C.L.A.S.S. Education, their new division, as an essential learning resource to support fashion schools. The new division was co-founded with James Mendolia, professor in the MFA Fashion Design program at Fashion Institute of Technology. C.L.A.S.S. will also launch C.L.A.S.S. e-commerce platform, which will sell partner materials to support emerging designers and fashion start-ups.

Thank you to all of our partners for making this event and the last ten years possible: Bacx by Centro Seta, Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei, ECOTEC® by Marchi & Fildi, Organic Cotton Colours, Re.VerSo™, ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei, TINTEX Textiles, Zignone.

At the upcoming ISPO exhibition, SITIP are pleased to introduce BEHOT, a SITIP Heat Generating Technology for fabrics that has been licensed from the unique ROICA™ StretchEnergy™ System by Asahi Kasei and is already adopted by Santini that is offering Premium cycle wear Made in Italy since 1965.

SITIP is a leading Italian textile company specialized in high-tech and function-rich innovations for sport, technical underwear, shapewear, beachwear, footwear components, protective helmets, and in particular Velcro-receptive fabrics for mechanical fastening systems and a number of innovative technical fabrics for other industrial end-uses, all made through key manufacture technologies that include weft & warp knit fabric innovations.

Further, SITIP has more recently launched 16 unique trade brands, each one specialized in highly advanced innovation solutions designed to fit both market and the discerning needs of the contemporary consumer.

Santini is offering to the market a multi-panel thermal bib tight for the coldest winter training. Made with the special BeHot fabric by Sitip, constructed with the ROICA™ StretchEnergy™ active performance material, it not only insulates, but generates up to 2 degrees of heat as you workout as certified by CeRism, Outdoor Sport Research Centre at Verona University. Complete comfort and protection thanks to the Acquazero by Sitip treatment that ensures you stay dry even in the most challenging conditions.

The design is completed with breathable mesh braces for added comfort and a reflective pixel detail on the leg to improve visibility in low light conditions. BeHOT represents a special combination of a highly refined type of knitted construction combined with this unique ROICA™ Premium Stretch yarn function, and has been especially developed for this new high-function concept.

LINGERIE becomes SMART with ROICA Cosabella premium lingerie brand with almost 2,000 styles of lingerie, daywear, loungewear, sleepwear and activewear sold in more than 100 countries. Cosabella chose Eco-Lace by Tessitura Colombo Antonio, a unique sustainable lace collection whose main premium stretch ingredient is ROICA™ Eco Smart by Asahi Kasei – the first and exclusive premium elastomer, sustainable and GRS certified (Global Recycle Standard by Textile Exchange) at international level.

DIESEL choose CUPRO Diesel presents its SS 2017 preview collection of 5 pure CUPRO pearl, washed finish silhouettes. CUPRO, by Asahi Kasei, is a refined, matchless material with an exquisite silk like touch. CUPRO is a matchless and original, new generation material made from the smart-tech transformation of cotton linter bio-utility waste, converted through a traceable and transparent closed loop process. Innovhub 3rd party lab test proves CUPRO can claim full biodegradability end of life option.