From the Sector

ISKO, a global, leading premium denim ingredient brand, announced its participation in The Jeans Redesign – a project, established by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Make Fashion Circular initiative, to encourage and guide the denim industry to transform the way jeans are made and move towards a circular economy for fashion.

ISKO meets the requirements for participation set by The Jeans Redesign guidelines and has made a commitment that 85% of its entire fabric production will consist of recycled material content made from pre-consumer and post-consumer recycled materials. This production will be independently verified by Textile Exchange audit bodies.

This achievement is made possible using ISKO’s R-TWO™ technology which is created through a patented and exclusive yarn spinning technique that retains the unique properties and benefits found in ISKO’s statement fabrics. ISKO’s R-TWO™ is the embodiment of its Responsible Innovation™ mindset and aligns with the principles of a circular economy espoused by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation – to ensure durability, material health, recyclability and traceability. R-TWO™ positions ISKO as a sustainability leader and enables it to exceed the project guidelines to create denim that is designed to be used more, made to be made again and made from safe and recycled or renewable inputs.

Baldwin Technology Company Inc. will showcase a new generation of innovative technologies for optimized corrugated high-graphics package printing at SuperCorrExpo, taking place in Orlando, Florida, from Aug. 8 to 12.

The FlexoCleanerBrush™ enhances the print quality and improves worker safety in corrugated printing. The system automatically removes dust and contamination from the plate in seconds during production, without stopping the press. It also performs full end-of-job plate cleaning and drying in fewer than four minutes, enabling increased uptime and sustainability. A carbon fiber core keeps even the ultra-wide FlexoCleanerBrush to a minimal weight, and ensures cleaning is stable, uniform and consistent throughout the plate’s width. Because the system is fully automatic and spans the entire width of the plate cylinder, the FlexoCleanerBrush improves safety by eliminating routine operator contact with the machine, while also reducing the risk of cylinder nip injuries and contact with wash agents.

Also on view in Baldwin’s SuperCorrExpo booth, the FlexoDry™ is a fully integrated IR drying system, specifically developed for corrugated flexo printing presses. It reduces energy consumption by up to 30 percent over standard IR dryers through patented Diamond IR™ lamps. The system delivers improved drying results because of a unique optical design that produces higher intensity for enhanced color definition, and reduces or eliminates marking altogether, allowing for high-speed and full-confidence printing.

Additionally, Baldwin will showcase LED-UV technology, designed by its AMS Spectral UV division for wide-format flexo corrugated box printing.

• Order intake of CHF 975.3 million (first half of 2020: CHF 250.7 million).
• Sales of CHF 400.5 million (first half of 2020: CHF 254.9 million).
• EBIT of CHF 9.0 million and net profit of CHF 5.3 million

The first half of 2021 has been characterized by a strong market recovery in combination with a regional shift in demand for new machinery and systems. Rieter anticipates a normalization of the demand for new systems in the coming months. The company assumes that spinning mills will continue to work at high-capacity levels.

For the full year, Rieter expects sales to be above CHF 900 million.

The realization of sales from the order backlog continues to be associated with risks in light of bottlenecks in material deliveries and freight capacities as well as the ongoing pandemic in key markets for Rieter.

In recent years, Rieter has implemented its strategy based on the cornerstones of innovation leadership, strengthening the components, spare parts and services businesses, and adjusting cost structures.

Crisis management in the pandemic year of 2020 was aimed at protecting employees, fulfilling customer commitments, ensuring liquidity, and also strengthening the market position for the time after the pandemic as well as retaining the ability to benefit from the incipient market recovery.

The focus for 2021 remains on the implementation of this strategy. The measures for crisis management relating to the protection of employees and fulfilling customer commitments are still in effect in countries that continue to be affected by the pandemic.

The Rieter Board of Directors has approved the implementation of the CAMPUS project. The Rieter CAMPUS comprises a customer and technology center as well as an administration building at the Winterthur location. It will make an important contribution to the implementation of the innovation strategy and to the enhancement of Rieter’s technology leadership position.

Hexcel, a global leader in advanced composites technologies, announces the successful maiden flight of a lightweight camera drone, developed using Hexcel HexPly® carbon fiber prepregs. The composite drone was developed by a team of students from the University of Applied Sciences Upper Austria in Wels with composite materials supplied by Hexcel Neumarkt in Austria.

A team of six students in the university’s lightweight construction and composite materials course was responsible for the complete design, engineering, and manufacture of the camera drone over a period of 18 months. Hexcel materials and optimization of the composite engineering enabled the team to reduce the composite structural mass by an impressive 42% compared to similar drones.

Hexcel Neumarkt was one of eight industrial partners supporting the university team throughout the project, providing all carbon fiber prepreg materials used for the drone’s landing gear as well as the fuselage. The ultra-lightweight 32g landing gear was laid up and cured in the press, whereas the fuselage was autoclave cured by the student team using Hexcel HexPly M901 and HexPly M78.1 prepreg resin systems with a combination of woven and unidirectional carbon fiber reinforcements.

With the development of Unmanned Aerial Vehicles (UAV) as a key emerging market and innovation space in the transportation sector, Hexcel’s collaboration with the University of Applied Sciences Upper Austria team not only creates an important link with the next generation of lightweight composite engineers but also highlights the weight saving and structural benefits of Hexcel composite material solutions.

"The massive weight saving achieved with their updated version of the camera drone is a fantastic achievement by the student team," said Michael Rabl, Dean of FH Wels of the Upper Austria University of Applied Sciences. "The joint study not only illustrates the wide range of complex and innovative composite techniques present in the drone sector but also presents the opportunities that exist for further development in the wider Urban Air Mobility (UAM) and aerospace composites markets.”

Hexcel congratulates the project team which includes Lukas Weninger, Karl-Heinz Schneider, Jakob Schlosser, Matthias Thon, Marla Unter, and Simone Hartl on an exceptional piece of lightweight composite design and thanks them for showcasing the contribution of Hexcel materials with a presentation and drone flight. Johanna Arndt, research and technology group leader at Hexcel Neumarkt, said, “It was a great pleasure to work with the team who were very cooperative and self-motivated to succeed. Watching the drone just fly around the Neumarkt plant was just great.”

Hexcel manufactures a complete range of carbon fibers, dry carbon UD tapes, specialty reinforcements, prepregs, and honeycomb core materials, providing customized manufacturing options for new UAM applications that combine aerospace reliability with the high-rate production required. Hexcel composite materials are the ideal solution for the lightest and most efficient cost-competitive transportation vehicles of the future.

Wülfing GmbH is one of the oldest but also one of the most modern home textiles companies in Germany, with its main weaving and finishing operations located in Borken, North Rhine-Westphalia, and a further jacquard weaving mill in Steinfurt, as well as with a making up and packaging plant in the Czech Republic.

At its Borken plant, Wülfing has employed a Monforts sanforizing line since 2009 to guarantee the required dimensional stability and shrink-fastness of its high quality bed linen. With a working width of over three metres, the sanforizing process is a central pillar in the production of typical wide-width cotton fabrics for home textiles.

In 2017, the company was able to acquire a second Monforts sanforizing line from another company which, although built in 2005, had been virtually unused. It was overhauled and installed behind a Monforts equalizing frame of a similar age.

“Unfortunately, the two machines had to be operated separately via individual controls and did not represent an integrated unit,” says Schulte-Mesum. “This resulted in deficits in the desired productivity and in the control technology.”

Wülfing consulted with Monforts on a number of upgrade options and opted for a completely new joint control system to merge the two machines, as well as a new connecting inlet, a tensioning and damping field and a steaming unit.

“Monforts provided a fast and precise erection and commissioning of the technology in spite of the difficult pandemic circumstances,” says Schulte-Mesum. “The result has been an increase in production speeds by 20% and enhanced uniformity in fabric width through a much improved guidance system.

“We are also achieving energy savings as a result of the new control and drive technology and operation has been simplified and improved as a result of the unified control. We benefit from simplified access for maintenance work such as the grinding of the rubber blanket, but most of all we have greatly improved our flexibility and now have two almost identical Monforts sanforizing lines.”

• A coalition of 13 European business associations, representing different European sectors calls for the swift ratification of the EU-Mercosur association agreement.
• With the political agreement reached already 2 years ago (June 2019), now is the time to move forward and unlock the manifold mutual benefits that this agreement will deliver.

The EU-MERCOSUR agreement is the largest and most ambitious trade agreement ever negotiated by both sides, provides regulatory certainty for both trade in goods and services, and establishes better trade links between countries of respectively 440 and 260 million citizens. It also includes the most advanced sustainable development provisions that will foster partnership, help mitigate climate change and bind both sides to effectively implement the Paris Agreement. Moreover, it includes enforceable commitments on workers' rights and environmental protection through a dedicated dispute settlement mechanism.

Failure to ratify the agreement would leave the EU and Mercosur with fewer instruments to build mutual trust and cooperate to face the biggest challenge of our time. Moreover, non-ratification will lead to Mercosur countries continuing to trade, or even expanding their trade, with other trading partners that have substantially lower environmental and labour standards. Please find attached the full joint statement.

International technology Group ANDRITZ will be presenting its innovative nonwovens production and textile solutions at ANEX/SINCE 2021 in Shanghai, China, from July 22 to 24, 2021. The product portfolio covers state-of-the-art nonwovens and textile production technologies such as air-through bonding, needlepunch, spunlace, spunbond, wetlaid/Wetlace, converting, textile finishing, airlay, recycling, and bast fiber processing.

Among the largest end-use markets for nonwoven products are materials for durable uses. Interior linings for cars, materials for construction, geotextiles, synthetic leathers for clothing and furniture, carpeting, filtration and many other industries rely on the use of nonwovens produced using the needlepunch method.

ANDRITZ Nonwoven’s processes play a pioneering role in the production of biodegradable materials. For many years, ANDRITZ has offered different processes, like spunlace, Wetlace and Wetlace CP, all with one goal in mind: Elimination of plastic components while maintaining the high quality of the desired product properties. Such processes achieve high performance entirely with plastic-free raw materials. The added benefit of using a blend of fibers, like wood pulp, short-cut cellulosic fibers, viscose, cotton, hemp, bamboo or linen, without chemical additives results in a 100% sustainable fabric, thus meeting customers’ needs exactly as well as supporting the strong tendency to move away from plastics and synthetics.

The latest development in this field is the ANDRITZ neXline wetlace CP line. This process combines the benefits of two forming technologies (inline drylaid and wetlaid web forming process) with bonding by hydroentanglement. Natural fibers, like pulp or viscose, can be processed smoothly and generate a high-performance and cost-efficient wipe that is fully biodegradable and plastic-free.

• Die schnellste Textil-Digitaldruckmaschine der Welt, die EFI Reggiani BOLT, liefert nun noch höhere Bildqualität

Dank Verbesserungen bei Hardware und Software der Ultrahochgeschwindigkeits-Inkjet-Druckmaschine gehören die Herausforderungen der Single-Pass-Bildverarbeitung unter anderem aufgrund weicherer Volltöne und verbesserter Druckhomogenität der Vergangenheit an

Electronics For Imaging, Inc. hat die schnellste Textil-Digitaldruckmaschine der Welt, die EFI™ Reggiani BOLT, jetzt noch besser gemacht. Bei dem Upgrade handelt es sich um eine Kombination aus Verbesserungen bei Hardware und Software, mit deren Hilfe die Artefaktbildung minimiert wird, indem der Ausfall einzelner Düsen, der im Laufe der Zeit auftreten kann, kompensiert und für eine höhere Homogenität gesorgt wird, wodurch weichere Volltöne möglich sind. Das Upgrade liefert nicht nur eine höhere Qualität und sanftere Gradienten, sondern beschleunigt auch das Auswechseln der Druckköpfe und sorgt für eine drastische Erhöhung der Dateiverarbeitungsgeschwindigkeit um bis zu 200 % für große, komplexe Dateien.
 
Die Erstellung spezieller Farbprofile mit der neuesten Version des digitalen EFI Fiery®  Front-Ends BT-1000, mit dem der Drucker betrieben wird, liefert bessere, intensivere Farbtöne und verbessert die Möglichkeit zum Abstimmen auf bestehende, im digitalen Textildruck übliche Farbprofile.
 
Diese Verbesserungen sind ein wichtiger Schritt, um die Präsenz des Digitaldrucks in der Branche weiter zu stärken und umweltfreundlichere, nachhaltigere Inkjet-Technologien als Ersatz für analoge Farbgebungsprozesse in den Vordergrund zu stellen, welche die Textilherstellung zur zweitgrößten umweltbelastenden Industrie der Welt machen.
 
“Durch seine in der Branche unangefochtene Geschwindigkeit und die nun noch höhere Druckqualität kann die EFI Reggiani BOLT dazu beitragen, eine Revolution im Textildruck zu entfachen und die Verschiebung der Produktion hin zur Digitaltechnologie zu verstärken, da sich die Investition bei hochvolumigen Aufträgen aufgrund des überlegenden Durchsatzes sowie der unerreichten Zuverlässigkeit und Betriebszeit besonders schnell bezahlt macht”, so Adele Genoni, EFI Reggiani Senior Vice President und General Manager. “Durch die neuen Verbesserungen an der BOLT – und deren Fähigkeit, mit einer Rekordgeschwindigkeit von 90 Metern pro Minute in extrem hoher Qualität auf einer Vielzahl von Designs und Stoffarten zu drucken – liegen Analog- und Digitaldruck in der Textilbranche wirtschaftlich gesehen näher beieinander als je zuvor. Mit dieser branchenführenden, qualitativ hochwertigen und durchsatzstarken Lösung für den digitalen Textildruck ist die Single-Pass-Technologie nun attraktiver denn je.”
 
Die Chancen stehen recht gut, dass die 1,8 Meter breite Single-Pass-Druckmaschine – die als erster Textil-Digitaldrucker den Printing United Alliance InterTech™ Award für Innovationen im Bereich der modernen Drucktechnologie erhielt – die Transformation der Branche stark beeinflussen wird. Mit den bisher in Betrieb befindlichen Exemplaren hat EFI Reggiani BOLT schon jetzt weltweit mehr als 50 Millionen laufende Meter an Textilien bedruckt.
 
Schnellere Verarbeitung und qualitativ hochwertigerer Druck
Das Upgrade der EFI Reggiani BOLT ist jetzt weltweit verfügbar und beinhaltet für eine bessere Gesamtleistung, Druckqualität, Homogenität und Bedienerfreundlichkeit unter anderem die folgenden Verbesserungen bei Hardware und Software.

The new, industrial, entry-level EFI™ Reggiani BLAZE scanning printer from Electronics For Imaging, Inc. is making its debut at the ITMA Asia tradeshow, 12-16 June in Shanghai, China. The high-quality printer is an easy-to-use, smart solution to help textile companies blaze their successful trail into the world of efficient, sustainable industrial inkjet printing. It is equipped with EFI Reggiani’s state-of-the-art technology, offering high quality, reliability and flexibility on the widest variety of designs.

Cutting-edge technology in a compact footprint
The EFI Reggiani BLAZE printer is designed to give textile companies the opportunity to enter the digital textile printing market with a compact solution. The new, 1.8-metre wide printer offers an innovative, low-maintenance, continuous recirculation ink system equipped with a level sensor and degassing as well as a printhead crash protective system for longer printhead life and superior uptime.
 
Thanks to its cutting-edge printhead reliability and low maintenance costs for a competitive TCO (total cost of ownership), the BLAZE printer can produce up to 125 linear metres per hour with a printing resolution up to 600x1200 dots per inch (dpi). The printer – which delivers excellent productivity as one of the fastest digital inkjet solutions in its class – has eight 300-dpi dual channel printheads and can print in up to eight colours with full variable drop size.

Flexible fabric feed and handling for higher productivity
The EFI Reggiani BLAZE is equipped with a continuous and switchable belt washing unit to remove water and fabric hairs. An embedded device for adhesive application offers the possibility to use thermoplastic, resin and permanent adhesives.
 
The printer also includes other features for enhanced productivity and value, including a 400-mm roll unwinder, expandable shafts, an air gun and a pneumatic bar for standard fabrics.

Efficient software and electronics technology
The Reggiani BLAZE printer offers a friendly and intuitive user interface with real-time image processing and flexible queue management. The software also runs a WYSIWYG (What You See Is What You Get) job editor, as well as tools to accurately predict printing speed and ink usage.

EFI Reggiani TERRA Silver enhancement
EFI has also released an enhanced version of the EFI Reggiani TERRA Silver printer, a 1.8-metre wide printer operating with EFI Reggiani’s unique TERRA pigment ink with binder solution for high-quality, highly sustainable, direct-to-textile printing without steaming or washing.

Features:

• A new recirculating ink system for superior reliability and minimum maintenance at start up and during production
• Several printing modes to ensure maximum flexibility in terms of design capability
• New, real-time image processing that eliminates time spent in image pre-calculations
• A user friendly, intuitive interface
• A more-efficient polymerisation process that takes place as printed textile goes through the printer’s on-board dryer.

On the occasion of releasing its 2021 Spring Report, EURATEX calls the European Institutions to implement a new Industrial Strategy which will effectively support the European textiles industry. EURATEX welcomes the fact that Textile and Clothing industry is recognised as one of the 14 essential ecosystems of the European economy, but we need to take effective measures to support these sectors, and take into consideration the global dimension.

Economic data for 2020 in EURATEX Spring Report show preoccupying trends. Figures reflect a dramatic contraction in demand and production: EU turnover contracted by -9.3% in textiles (which is in line with the general manufacturing average) and by -17.7% in clothing, compared with 2019. Furthermore, supply chain disruptions and substantial price increases of some raw materials are putting significant pressure on the T&C industries across Europe. The trade deficit for European textiles and clothing jumped from € -47 bln in 2019 to € -62 bln in 2020, an increase of more than 30%, which is almost entirely due to the import of Chinese face masks and related products. Fortunately, more recent figures from the 1st quarter of 2021 indicate some signs of recovery.

That figure illustrates very well today’s political discussions on the future of the European industry. Many European companies have made considerable efforts to adapt their production to the pandemic, but clearly this was not enough. Whether the production cost in Europe is too high or the EU should adapt its procurement rules, the industry needs have a coherent long-term plan to become more competitive and conquer new markets.

EURATEX General Assembly highlighted the critical role of the new EU Industrial Strategy. The inclusion of textiles and clothing in the fourteen ecosystems is a step in the right direction to consolidate the industrial base but we should look also at the global challenges. European companies should continue investing in innovation, design and quality, in combination with a structural move towards more sustainable textiles. At the same time, the EU should create an environment - both inside the Single Market and globally - where everybody plays by the same rules.