From the Sector

Carbios, a pioneer in the development and industrialization of biological technologies to reinvent the life cycle of plastic and textiles, inaugurated its textile preparation line at its demonstration plant in Clermont-Ferrand.

To streamline the textile preparation phase, which is currently carried out by hand or on several lines, Carbios has developed a fully integrated and automated line that transforms textile waste from used garments or cutting scraps into raw material suitable for depolymerization with its enzymatic biorecycling process.  

The patented line integrates all preparation stages (shredding and extraction of hard points such as buttons or fasteners), and provides Carbios with a high-performance, scalable development tool. The platform will help validate the biorecycling technology for textiles at demonstration plant scale (by 2024), and provides Carbios with expertise in working with collection and sorting operators to specify the quality of textiles and the preparation steps needed to make them suitable for enzymatic recycling.

Digital fashion outlet Otrium announces the launch of a dedicated garment refurbishment and repair programme for damaged returns following a successful pilot scheme. The initiative is being run in partnership with Bleckmann, experts in supply chain management for fashion and lifestyle brands. Working with Bleckmann’s team of circular fashion experts from The Renewal Workshop, Otrium is taking the next step in its strategic journey to help reduce the number of that might ultimately end up in landfills or destroyed.
 
Most of the returns that Otrium currently receives can be easily restored and put back on sale. However, in rare cases, returned items are damaged. “Preventing waste is an important part of Otrium’s DNA, and thanks to our partnership with Bleckmann and their Renewal Workshop team, we can now repair the majority of damaged returns and put them back into circulation,” said Kevin Carolan, Director of Logistics at Otrium. “We are happy that we can use our position in the fashion supply chain to create lasting change and accelerate towards our mission of reducing the volume of garments that go to landfill.”

Since 2020, Otrium is exploring refurbishment and repairs with their third-party logistics provider Bleckmann. In April 2023, both partners started a three-month pilot at Bleckmann’s facility in Almelo, the Netherlands, to expand the programme with a broader range of repairs and optimised processes through data use. During the pilot, the Renewal Workshop team at Bleckmann refurbished more than 1,000 returned garments, shoes and accessories for Otrium each month.

“With hundreds of high-end labels on the platform, we needed an efficient solution tailored to the needs of a wide range of products – from shoes and coats to bags,” explained Marlot Kiveron, Head of Sustainability at Otrium. “The Renewal Workshop team worked closely with us to develop a streamlined and scalable process that could grow in line with our ambitions, delivering like-new repairs at the speed of e-commerce. Their combination of purpose, professionalism, agility and expertise makes them the ideal partner for this kind of project.”
 
Bleckmann’s integrated data capabilities were also crucial to the success of the partnership. “Data collection and analysis can be vital in demonstrating the commercial viability of sustainability initiatives,” said Tamara Zwart, Director of Renewal at Bleckmann. “Using our advanced stock tracking systems, we determined that 70% of the renewed Otrium stock had been sold within seven weeks. We’re all delighted with the results!”
Furthermore, carbon-tracking software Vaayu calculated that on average, a refurbished return sold on Otrium avoids 2.760kg of carbon emissions and 69g of waste proofing that this programme can have a positive impact on both: the planet and the business.

Having established the business case, the team decided to expand the initiative beyond the pilot phase. “This project is a milestone in our sustainability journey,” concluded Marlot. “It’s a key part of our ongoing commitment to finding more ways to reduce our environmental impact while helping to ensure that more clothes get worn. By the end of 2023, we aim to repair at least 25,000 damaged garments. Together with Bleckmann and their renewal experts, we’re well on our way to proving that this circular business model can be a valuable part of our future growth.”

Carbios inaugurated its textile preparation line at its demonstration plant in Clermont-Ferrand, in the presence of Mr. Lescure, French Minister for Industry. To streamline the textile preparation phase, which is currently carried out by hand or on several lines, Carbios has developed a fully integrated and automated line that transforms textile waste from used garments or cutting scraps into raw material suitable for depolymerization with its enzymatic biorecycling process. This patented line integrates all preparation stages (shredding and extraction of hard points such as buttons or fasteners), and provides Carbios with a high-performance, scalable development tool. The platform will help validate the biorecycling technology for textiles at demonstration plant scale (by 2024), and provides Carbios with expertise in working with collection and sorting operators to specify the quality of textiles and the preparation steps needed to make them suitable for enzymatic recycling. This expertise will also be invaluable to brands in the eco-design of their products.

Current collection, sorting and preparation infrastructures limit the amount of textile waste available for “fiber-to-fiber” recycling. Collection rates average around 15-25% worldwide^[1], and much of the waste collected is exported to Africa, Asia or Latin America for sorting.

Moreover, textiles are highly complex materials, with yarns of different composition (or nature) that are difficult, if not impossible, to physically separate. However, the highly selective enzyme developed by Carbios can specifically depolymerize the PET (polyester) present in textile material.

At present, textiles are sorted and prepared mainly by hand, with low yields, particularly for disruptors to recycling processes such as “hard points” (zips, buttons, etc.). To optimize this crucial phase, Carbios is contributing a textile preparation solution to accelerate the development of biorecycling in the textile industry. Enzymatic recycling, or biorecycling, therefore contributes to the construction of a textile recycling chain and the acceleration of textile circularity, also enabling brands to do away with used bottles.

^[1] Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017

ISKO provided their latest innovation in material science to British designers, Priya Ahluwalia, Masha Popova, Chet Lo and Aaron Esh, for the London Fashion Week SS24 season.

Alongside supplying their latest denim fabrics, ISKO opened its doors to its London-based product development centre, Creative Room London, for finishing and washing of their final designs as well providing expertise and knowledge in denim design and construction.

Priya Ahluwalia
For Ahluwalia’s Spring Summer 24 collection, entitled Acknowledgements, Creative Director and founder Priya Ahluwalia’s research led her on a journey of creative rediscovery.
ISKO’s Ctrl+Z fabric, which is made entirely from recycled and regenerated fibres, was used to create the flower motif denim showcase within 3 looks across jeans and jackets. This development contains no virgin cotton and uses a minimum of 60% recycled materials and the remainder is regenerated cellulose fibres while still giving a look and feel identical to traditional denim and speaks to Ahluwalia’s ongoing commitment to sustainable design and business practices.

Chet Lo
This season, Chet Lo took an active stand in reclaiming the power lost during his youth, healing the childhood wounds inflicted by a society that sidelined differences instead of celebrating them.
ISKO’s Ctrl+Z fabric and specialist lasering techniques from ISKO’s Creative Room was used across three looks featuring signature Chet Lo erotic laser prints across denim bottoms.

Aaron Esh
The SS24 season marked the brand’s debut at London Fashion Week, a homecoming of sorts for Esh, who was born and raised in the heart of the British capital, studied at Central Saint Martins and became a finalist at the LVMH Prize earlier this year. The early impulses of Aaron Esh remain steadfast: clothes that combine establishment rigour with the rebellious spirit of youth culture, devotedly crafted for a generation who feels somewhere in-between.
Aaron created bootleg denim ripped jeans made entirely from ISKO Denim using R-TWO50 fabric, which comprises a minimum of 50% pre and post-consumer recycled content. The designer noted the addition of denim accompanied by leathers add a new level of depth to their latest collection.

Masha Popova
Masha Popova’s sophomore catwalk outing, MONSTER was a “seasonless” offering that combines Autumn Winter 2023 and Spring Summer 2024.
Masha continued her obsession with denim manipulation, using various finishings including over-dyeing, flocking, patchwork, scratching and fraying in a variety of colours from vibrant green to silver across jeans, tops and jackets, all developed with the help of ISKO’s Creative Room, London.

Coloreel has signed a two million dollar deal with a prominent Asian manufacturer. This agreement is a milestone for Coloreel and its innovative product.

The new partnership underscores Coloreel's capacity to meet the growing demand for innovative and sustainable solutions among manufacturers and brands worldwide. While the initial delivery of the on-demand digital thread-dying units is set for October this year, the majority of the volume will be shipped during 2024.

The Swedish company has rapidly gained recognition for its pioneering innovation in embroidery. The technology enables manufacturers to instantly dye a white thread into an unlimited spectrum of colors, all in real-time. At the same time, the technology makes production more efficient by using digital processes and automation, while saving up to 97% of water compared to traditional thread dyeing.

•    First production supercar created with Hypetex coloured carbon fibre
•    Paint-replacement technology reduces weight to enhance performance

British car manufacturer Briggs Automotive Company (BAC) has created a unique Hypetex coloured carbon fibre version of its Mono R, reducing the weight by removing the need for paint.  

The original BAC Mono R was created to be lighter and more powerful than the standard model, with 343bhp and 555kg total weight, equating to a power-to-weight ratio of 618bhp-per-tonne. By removing the need for paint coatings in this version, the net weight of the exterior is reduced compared to a painted shell, resulting in a further improved overall performance.

The car’s body was created using Hypetex’s titanium carbon fibre twill, and finished with a crystalized lacquer, offering a unique aesthetic finish. The ultra-lightweight supercar can accelerate from zero to 60mph in less than 2.5 seconds.  

Hypetex’s paint-replacement technology retains the visible weave, allowing for a bold design and a choice of colours without technical compromises, perfectly aligning with BAC’s initiatives to maximise performance whilst creating bespoke supercars. Paint generally adds 138 grams per metre squared, whereas Hypetex adds just 17 grams for the same area, offering an 8x weight saving.
This bespoke version of BAC’s single-seater Mono R was subject to BAC’s renowned BAC Bespoke programme, which ensures that no two Monos are the same. The client, a US-based collector, worked with BAC’s design team to design the car to their personal taste.   

Born out of Formula 1 technology, Hypetex offers manufacturers sustainable aesthetic materials with technical and efficiency benefits. This collaboration is an all-British success story, with the Hypetex carbon fibre body built by Formaplex, a leading UK-based manufacturing company who manufacture lightweight engineered solutions for top tier customers in Automotive, Aerospace and Defence markets. BAC’s supply chain is 95% UK-based.  

Hypetex continues to expand its growing portfolio of the use of coloured carbon fibre to add personalisation to the automotive field, with its material recently featured on the 2024 Ford Mustang Dark Horse.  

Deakin University has signed a partnership agreement with Geelong-based company Xefco as part of its Recycling and Clean Energy Commercialisation Hub (REACH) to conduct new research to transform how our clothing, including jeans, get their colour.

Jeans are one of the most worn garments in the world, but they are also one of the least environmentally friendly, taking around 75 litres of water to dye just one pair.

Deakin’s work with Xefco is helping to explore if a waterless manufacturing process can replace the water intensive processes the clothing industry has used for hundreds of years. The new technology in development is called ‘Ausora’.

Associate Professor Alessandra Sutti, from Deakin’s Institute for Frontier Materials, said it was exciting to be on the commercialisation journey with Xefco, working with the company to discover what is possible and hopefully reduce the world’s fashion footprint.

“If successful, the Ausora technology, which colours fabrics without the need for large quantities of water, will put us a step closer to more efficient and sustainable clothing manufacturing,” Associate Professor Sutti said.

Xefco CEO Tom Hussey said the company’s new pilot plant, housed at Deakin in Geelong, will test different materials, including specialised fabrics such as waterproof items like outdoor jackets and jeans.

“This is the first stage of Xefco’s vision for the technology, with the REACH project focused on demonstrating the commercial viability of the technology at pilot scale and developing processes so it can be scaled up for commercial production,” Mr Hussey said.

“Together, Deakin and Xefco will push the limits of innovation and see what is possible.”
Xefco’s pilot plant is co-located with Deakin researchers at ManuFutures, the state-of-the-art advanced manufacturing hub at Deakin’s Waurn Ponds campus.

Founded in 2018 Xefco now employs 17 people and its products are already making a difference across the world. Its XReflex technology, which reduces consumption of insulation materials, is being used by some of the world’s leading apparel and fashion brands including The North Face.

Backed by a $50 million grant from the Australian Government’s inaugural Trailblazer Universities Program, with industry and university support taking the total project value to $380 million, REACH is facilitating the development of greener supply chains and accelerating business success as markets move from a throughput economy to a circular economy.

adidas launches its new LFSTLR jersey collection, featuring the season 23/24 third jerseys of some its leading clubs, re-imagined as fashion-focused, lifestyle streetwear.

LFSTLR blurs the lines between football performance and streetwear culture, re-defining what it means to represent your club away from the terraces. The collection includes adaptations of the third jerseys of Arsenal, FC Bayern Munich, Juventus, Manchester United and Real Madrid, retaining the overall design blueprint of the authentic on-pitch and fan versions but with a focus on wearability and comfort over pure performance for the field of play.

Each jersey is made with an elevated base material, including heavier superior fabrics for additional comfort as well as featuring a more premium trim execution and detailing to truly ramp up the style factor. The application of a tonal adidas badge gives each jersey a clean, crisp look that gives the club crests additional prominence. Between 70-100% of the materials used in each jersey are from recycled or renewable sources.

adidas worked with each club to appoint a Creative Lead, tapping into the worlds of fashion and music, and ensuring the unique flair of each team came through with bespoke individuality:

• Arsenal linked up with Grammy-award winning rapper, Pusha T
• FC Bayern collaborated with Achraf, one of the hottest names in the German fashion and music industry
• Juventus called upon Italian style with fashion photographer Giampaolo Sgura
• Manchester United teamed up with Nigerian Afropop singer-songwriter, Adekunle Gold & Manchester’s The KTNA
• Real Madrid worked with renowned Mexican rapper, Alemán 

OCSiAl, a leader in graphene nanotube technologies, has been granted a construction permit for a nanotube production facility near Belgrade, Serbia. The new nanotube synthesis plant will be launched in 2024 and will have an initial annual capacity of 60 tonnes of graphene nanotubes. Over the next two years, the capacity of this plant will be increased to 120 tonnes per year. “The project will facilitate logistics and lower supply chain costs. European-produced nanotubes and nanotube derivatives will be primarily supplied to our customers in central and western Europe, North America, and Asia,” said OCSiAl Group Senior Vice President Gregory Gurevich.
 
In addition to synthesizing nanotubes, the facility will manufacture nanotube suspensions for lithium-ion battery manufacturers in Europe, the US, and Asia – enough to enhance the performance of more than 1 mln electric cars with an average battery capacity of 75 kWh per car. OCSiAl nanotubes create long and robust electrical networks between active material particles, improving key battery characteristics, including cycle life, lower DCR, C-rate performance, and cohesion between active battery material particles, making the battery electrodes more durable. Graphene nanotubes unlock new battery technologies, including high-silicon content anodes, thick LFP cathodes, fast-charging graphite anodes, and more. They can be applied in both conventional and emerging battery tech, such as a dry battery electrode coating process, and solid-state batteries.
 
As well as synthesizing nanotubes and producing suspensions, OCSiAl project includes manufacturing of nanotube concentrates for high-performance polymers. The project has passed environmental impact assessment and it is 100% powered by green energy. It enjoys support from Serbian municipal and national governments. The plant is planned to be certified in accordance with ISO 9001, ISO 14001, and ISO 45001, and to be compliant with the IATF 16949 automotive industry standard. The project will create more than 200 job opportunities for engineers, scientists, managers, operators, and administrative staff.
 
Currently, OCSiAl has an extensive manufacturing system of nanotube-based products in the regions of highest market demand, such as China, Japan, Sri Lanka, Brazil, Malaysia, and other countries. The Serbia nanotube hub will operate in conjunction with the company’s operational R&D center and planned graphene nanotube synthesis facility in Luxembourg.

Die AZL Aachen GmbH, bekannter Innovationspartner für Industriekooperationen auf dem Gebiet der Leichtbautechnologieforschung, startet eines neuen Projekts mit dem Titel "Trends und Designfaktoren für Wasserstoffdruckbehälter". Das Projekt wird Fragestellungen der Industrie in Bezug auf die Wasserstoffspeicherung adressieren.

AZL Aachen GmbH, a recognized innovator in lightweight technologies research and industry collaboration, announces the initiation of a new project titled "Trends and Design Factors for Hydrogen Pressure Vessels". The project aims to address industry needs surrounding hydrogen storage.

Hydrogen has gained significant attention as a key technological solution for decarbonization, with high pressure storage and transportation emerging as vital components. Its applications extend from stationary storage solutions to mobile pressure vessels employed in sectors such as transportation and energy systems.

The AZL team, renowned for its high reputation in providing market and technology insights as well as developing component and production concepts in the format of Joint Partner Projects seeks for companies along the whole composite value chain interested in further developing their application know how in this economically highly relevant field.

The project will provide an in depth exploration of market insights, regulatory standards, and intellectual property landscapes. Beyond this, there is a dedicated focus on staying updated with state of the art and advancements in design, materials, and man ufacturing techniques.

An integral component of the project involves the creation of reference designs by AZL´s engineering team. The reference designs will encompass a variety of pressure vessel configurations and will consider a diverse range of materials and production concep ts.

With the scheduled project start in October 2023, and a project timeline of approximately nine months, AZL encourages companies active across the composite value chain to participate. Companies interested in participating or seeking further information should reach out directly to the AZL expert team.