From the Sector

Stratasys Ltd. published its second Mindful Manufacturing™ ESG and Sustainability Report in accordance with the Global Reporting Initiative (GRI) standards, fulfilling its commitment to transparency. The report includes an extensive overview of activities and advancements in Stratasys’ environmental, social and governance (ESG) programs.

Some highlights of the Mindful Manufacturing ESG and Sustainability report, by category, include:

Environmental

• Stratasys reduced water intensity by 32.5 percent across global operations, leading to an overall reduction in water usage by the company.
• Solar panels installed at Israeli facilities generated 441,339 kWh of renewable energy, which contributed to 207 metric tons of reduced CO2 emissions, or the equivalent of planting 3,423 trees
• Double digit (11.3 percent) increases in the number of spools, cartridges and canisters recycled through a new recycling program.

Social

• More than 38,000 hours of employee training were provided, equaling 18 hours of training per employee.
• Approaching world-class status with employee engagement, with a 78 percent participation rate in the last all-employee survey, with an all-time high engagement score of 73.
• 81 percent of managers participated in management training.
• 4 diversity KPIs were set in 2022, focusing on hiring practices. Targets were:
• 100 percent of candidate slates for manager and above will have a diverse slate
• 35 percent of management hires will be women
• 25 percent of tech hires will be women
• 40 percent of intern/student hires to reflect a range of ethnicity and gender diversity.

Governance

• 100 percent of new suppliers in 2021 and 2022 signed the Supplier Code of Conduct, which includes environmental, social and ethical standards.
• More than 97% of all employees completed compliance training.
• No product-related health and safety incidents of non-compliance occurred in 2021 or 2022.

Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) has collaborated with PDS Ventures to launch a new Trailblazer Programme. The new initiative seeks to identify early-stage innovators and support them on their journey to scale.

As part of the Trailblazer Programme, PDS Ventures will award one innovator a significant investment of up to USD 200,000* to accelerate the company’s growth and positive impact in the fashion industry. The winner will also receive commercial and operational support from PDS Group’s Positive Materials - a textile company and strategic research partner supporting the development and acceleration of low impact textile innovation through collaboration between early-stage start-ups, supply chain partners and brands. Further scaling opportunities will be gained through access to PDS Limited’s extensive global supply chain.
 
GFA and PDS Ventures are presenting an open call for solution providers addressing different challenges across the fashion value chain to apply for the programme. Applicants will be reviewed and shortlisted by an esteemed Jury including representatives from GFA, PDS Ventures, Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), Ralph Lauren Corporation, Fashion For Good and H&M Group. Eight shortlisted innovations will be enrolled in a group of Trailblazers, receiving feedback and investment pitch training from industry experts and PDS representatives.     
 
Each shortlisted innovator will then pitch for a potential investment, with the winning Trailblazer being revealed at GFA’s Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition 2024 - an international forum for sustainability in fashion, on 22-23 May at the Copenhagen Concert Hall. All shortlisted Trailblazers will also have the opportunity to showcase their businesses within an exhibit at the Summit to connect with other key industry stakeholders and potential investors.
 
The Trailblazer Programme corresponds with the theme of the upcoming Global Fashion Summit - ‘Unlocking The Next Level’. Inspired by a significant milestone, 2024 marks 15 years since the inaugural Global Fashion Summit was hosted in 2009. This pivotal anniversary offers a special moment to not only take stock of the evolution of the sector and the progress made so far, but, most importantly, look ahead at what actions must urgently be implemented in the near term, and the gaps that must be filled to accelerate industry transformation.

Under adidas’ ambition to help athletes overcome high pressure moments in sport, it has teamed up with leading sport neuroscientists, neuro11, to understand the impact it has within a game of football, basketball, and golf during penalty shootouts, high-stake putts and must-make free-throws.

Working with Emiliano Martínez, Ludvig Åberg, Nneka Ogwumike, Rose Zhang, and Stina Blackstenius, as well as amateurs in the game, adidas and neuro11 delved into their minds to identify and analyse where pressure peaks, to help athletes across the globe to better understand it.

Understanding from this study that grassroots athletes and their elite counterparts experience similarly intense levels of pressure in the biggest sporting moments - but elite athletes were up to 40% more effective at managing pressure during these moments¹ - a toolbox of techniques has been developed, built from the specific findings, to assist next-gen athletes in managing and overcoming the feeling within their game.

Covering in-depth detail on what pressure looks like within each sport, how it has been proven to impact specific in-game moments, the brain zones that neuro11’s state-of-the-art brain technology measures and the main insights from each athlete’s training session, each report sets out to support all athletes in accessing the optimal zone - the brain state in which they perform at their best.

Rounded off with science-backed tips that reveal the optimal area of a goal to strike a penalty, how to use time to regain focus before netting a free throw, as well as the impact of dwell time on putting in golf – the guides are shaped around enhancing mental focus during some of the most pressured moments across sport.

1 Findings captured during athlete training sessions, as part of adidas SS24 Brand Campaign, in collaboration with neuro11 (November ’23- January ’24). Study carried out with Emiliano Martínez, Ludvig Åberg, Nneka Ogwumike, Rose Zhang, and Stina Blackstenius, in addition to 5 grassroot athletes.

• Dibella increases the use of Cotton made in Africa cotton according to the mass balance system from 300,000kg in 2023 to 750,000kg in 2024.

With Cotton made in Africa (CmiA), Dibella is making its business model even more sustainable. This enables the company to minimise its environmental impact and support the people in the growing regions. Dibella relies on the CmiA mass balance system in the chain to achieve its corporate goal of "increasing the use of sustainable fibres".

Cotton made in Africa initiative is an internationally recognised standard for sustainable cotton grown by African smallholder farmers. With up to 13% less greenhouse gas emissions, CmiA-verified cotton has a significantly lower impact on the environment than the global average and also supports village communities in Africa beyond sustainable cotton cultivation. CmiA supports smallholder farmers in sub-Saharan Africa in the sustainable cultivation of genetically unmodified cotton and is committed to improving working conditions in ginning factories. Through a licence fee, which is paid by customers like Dibella, the farmers receive training and access to operating resources in order to reduce the use of pesticides and increase the quality of their cotton and yields from their fields at the same time.

Cotton made in Africa takes a pragmatic approach to the processing of its cotton with two different models in order to best meet the demands for transparency and feasibility in the chain: The Hard Identity Preserved System and the Mass Balance System; Dibella has opted for the latter. While CmiA-verified cotton is always traded separately from other cotton right up to the spinning mill and can therefore be traced seamlessly from the growing region to the ginning plant to the spinning mill, the mass balance system allows CmiA cotton to be mixed with cotton of other origins at the spinning mill level as long as a balance between cotton purchases and CmiA-labelled yarns is ensured. This principle ensures the purchase of sustainably grown fibres and helps Dibella to bring a larger quantity of sustainable cotton into its textile cycle, which ultimately benefits smallholder farmers.

OETI, a Member of TESTEX Group, is an official ZDHC Approved Solution Provider under the ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Programme. Expanding beyond its existing role as a ZDHC Approved MRSL Certification Body for OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT around the globe, OETI now offers comprehensive ZDHC training services in India.

The ZDHC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals) Roadmap to Zero Programme drives sustainable chemical management in the global textile, apparel, leather, and footwear sectors. OETI's ZDHC training services empower brands, manufacturers, and other ZDHC stakeholders to master sustainable chemical management, adopting ZDHC guidelines, platforms, and solutions.

This programme delivers a comprehensive understanding of chemical management systems (CMS) and their practical implementation within the textile and leather industries. Targeting various organisational departments, including management, chemical teams, procurement, compliance, and sustainability, this training fosters collaboration within the departments regarding sustainable chemical management.

BW Packaging, Barry-Wehmiller’s global team of packaging professionals, announces that Jeff Journey has joined the company as the Vice President of Aftermarket. In his new role, he will work with BW Packaging divisional aftermarket leaders and digital innovation teams to drive strategic plans that leverage technology, tools and business process optimization to create new value for customers.

Journey also will review BW Packaging’s existing portfolio of aftermarket products and services —including the rapid delivery of spare and replacement parts, customer and field service programs, and operator training (in-house and onsite) — and will determine how best to maximize these solutions.

Journey brings a wealth of expertise to his new position. Recently, he served as a key leader at Thermo Fisher Scientific’s Life Sciences group, spearheading strategy, innovation, marketing and sales for the $300M-plus global service and support business. Under his guidance, Thermo Fisher underwent a successful digital transformation of its service model, resulting in improved instrument uptime and service contract revenue.

The Sustainability Report 2022, which is now digitally available summarizes key ecological, economic, and social developments.
The report shows that the CHT Group has defined and anchored sustainability as an integral part of its corporate strategy.
 

• The group of companies is pursuing the goal of becoming climate-neutral by 2045
• At the end of 2021, the CHT Group subscribed to the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) to meet the targets of the Paris Climate Agreement and committed to the 1.5 °C target
• 77 % of sales were achieved with sustainably classified products

The issue of sustainability has been anchored in the DNA of the internationally active foundation-owned group of companies for 70 years. No less an aspiration is derived from this than to support all customers with the most innovative, most sustainable products and solutions and thus to become the leading supplier of sustainable chemical products and solutions in all target markets.

"Climate neutrality" and comprehensive social responsibility  
In the implementation of the sustainability strategy of the CHT Group, the field of action "climate neutrality" takes a central role. The CHT Group has set itself the goal of being climate neutral both in its own production and in the supply chain from the year 2045. The path to climate neutrality by 2045 is illustrated in the report as part of the strategic goal.

In addition to climate protection, social responsibility is also a top priority for the CHT Group. The continuous improvement of health protection and occupational safety is a top priority for the company.

From CHT's point of view, qualified and committed employees make a significant contribution to the company's future success. For this reason, the CHT Group promotes the professional and personal development of its workforce to a high degree and invests in future-oriented and targeted training and further education of its workforce.

For the CHT Group, the respect for human rights is an indispensable pillar of the corporate culture and an essential part of the group-wide Code of Conduct. In 2022, the Human Rights Compliance Policy Statement was developed, and compliance processes and measures were put in place to prevent any violations and identify and mitigate human rights related risks.

• Precious water for villages that are running on dry land

The GoodTextiles Foundation has worked to improve drinking water supplies in sub-Saharan Africa in another joint project with Cotton made in Africa (CmiA). In three villages in Togo particularly affected by climate change, the partners built wells and trained people in the use of water. The curriculum included the topics of disease prevention, hygiene and health care.

In 2016, the textile company Dibella (Bocholt) established the GoodTextiles Foundation with the aim of making textile value chains more sustainable. It raises funds and implements its own support projects to benefit people at all stages of the textile industry. Now the foundation has once again supported a project in sub-Saharan Africa initiated by Cotton made in Africa (Hamburg). Funding is being provided for three villages in Togo that, according to a needs assessment by CmiA's local partner, the cotton company Nouvelle Société Cotonnière du Togo (NSCT), have no direct access to drinking water.

Difficult water procurement
The areas where CmiA's drought-resistant cotton is grown include the north and interior of Togo, where cotton farmers are particularly affected by the effects of climate change due to prolonged periods of drought. Many village communities lack access to clean drinking water, and people draw contaminated water from more distant rivers or waterholes and carry the heavy load back with difficulty.

Guide to clean water
As part of a joint project between the GoodTextiles Foundation, Aid by Trade Foundation (holder of the CmiA standard) and NSCT, three drought-affected villages - Namare/Puob-n-kpaad, Tchokoroko and Aloba - will now receive their own water supply.

The funds - 11,756 euros will be provided by the GoodTextiles Foundation, and 4,419 euros will come from the Cotton Society - will be used to construct a well operated by hand pumps in each village. The construction work is to be completed by March 2023 and the 2,300 inhabitants will be taught the basics of water handling, disease prevention and hygiene measures in so-called WASH training courses.

Driving force: UN SDGs
For years, we have aligned our company with the UN's 17 Sustainable Development Goals (Global Goals for Sustainable Development). Through the sponsorship project, we are not only contributing to SDG 6 "Clean water and sanitation", but also to gender equality (SDG 5). In the African countries from which we source CmiA cotton, the physically strenuous task of procuring water is still the responsibility of women. The construction of the wells now leads to a significant improvement of their living situation," reports Ralf Hellmann, managing director of Dibella and chairman of the foundation.

Continued under their own responsibility
Once the wells have been handed over to the village communities, "water committees" will take over their management and maintenance, as well as responsibility for further hygiene training for the residents. The operation of the wells will be financed on the basis of a fund made up of small contributions from the beneficiary communities.

Carbios has strengthened its leadership team with the appointment of Martine Brisset as Senior Vice President from 1 January 2023. Martine will manage the Biodegradation Division and supervise the Human Resources, Legal, Regulatory, Project Management, Quality Health and Safety departments. Martine Brisset joins the Group’s Executive Committee, as does Delphine Denoizé, who remains Innovation Programs Funding, Regulation and LCA Director with an expanding team.

Martine Brisset has over 30 years of General Management experience in international groups within the plastic and paper packaging industry, most notably at Amcor, Huhtamaki, Linpac and Klockner Pentaplast.  Since 2021, she has held the position of General Manager of Carbiolice in order to integrate this high-potential subsidiary dedicated to biodegradation within the Carbios Group. In her new position as Senior Vice President of Carbios, her main mission will be to successfully deploy the biodegradation technology, facilitate the international expansion of Carbios’ activities, organise the recruitment and training of the Group’s employees. With numerous recruitments planned throughout the company in 2023, building Carbios’ attractivity will be a strategic topic.

After several years working in innovation within the agricultural industry, Delphine Denoizé joined the Carbios in 2016 and was one of its first twenty employees. Initially in charge of Innovation Funding and Regulation, then Project Management for PET biorecycling, she now oversees all the Group’s projects. Her responsibilities include French and European public funding for innovation, regulatory compliance of processes and products around the world, and assessment of their environmental impact through specific tools such as Life Cycle Assessment.

Over the past three years, a dedicated AI development team at BTMA member Shelton Vision has been developing tailored machine learning solutions for the textiles industry.

The aim has been to elevate the detection process and the accuracy of naming and grading subtle defects in textiles, in real time within production environments.

“Big Data ‘off-the-shelf’ systems such as those behind technolgies like facial recognition and Google Maps involve reading many thousands of single images each second and simply take too long to accumulate sufficient data for what’s required in this specific case,” says Shelton Vision CEO and Managing Director Mark Shelton. “A feature of the textile industry is that in many sectors, the product range changes several times within a year and it is not uncommon to have to inspect hundreds, if not thousands of different styles in a year based on precise settings.”

In terms of defect types, he adds, there may typically be over 100 that need to be accurately detected, classified (named) and graded in real time.

“Added to this is the need to ‘filter out’ the random occurrence of ‘non defects’, such as loose threads, lint and dust on the surface – the number of which can be higher than actual defects – and it is clear that a bespoke system is required.”
The development team has consequently established metadata for identifying defect properties, enabling the successful identification of faults from a much smaller number of images.

“The system employs a unique combination of machine learning for automated style training and novel algorithms for defect detection, to provide high quality images for the AI real time defect classification and grading software,” Shelton explains. “Due to the inherent variation in fabric features – raw materials, construction, texture, colour and finishes, as well as the differing product quality standards in value chains and the regional variations in what defects are called – our AI engine uses models built for each individual company or group of companies, or product value chain.”

The AI models are constructed so that the user operatives can populate them with their own data produced by the vision system or by obtaining defect images from another imaging source (eg a mobile phone camera).  

The occurrence of defects is sporadic and many defect types occur infrequently, although when they do, they can have severe consequences. These scenarios re-enforce the need for the AI engine to be quickly set up and able to operate accurately with limited data sets of typically between 30 and 50 good quality images per defect type.

A further feature is a tool enabling the user to periodically ‘clean up’ the AI data during the set up phase. This is used to resolve conflicting data and to correct mis-named images.

Generally, the highest cost component of fabric production is the raw material and in addition to finished product inspection, a cost effective use for vision systems is in process operation.

Generally, the highest cost component of fabric production is the raw material and in addition to finished product inspection, a cost effective use for vision systems is in process operation.

“There is a need for the real time detection of defects that are being created in separate processes, such as printing or coating and for real time automated systems that can accurately determine the defects and their severity and provide a reliable signal for an operative to rectify the issue, This can result in considerable savings.

Prior to Shelton introducing powerful customised machine vision and real time defect classification, the only systems available were those that required manual sifting through vast numbers of images, which included both real defects and ‘non defect’ images. The task was very often overwhelming and did not provide much benefit beyond manual fabric inspection.