From the Sector

In the first quarter of 2025, orders for textile machinery recorded by ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, showed a sharp decline compared to the same period in 2024, down 29%. The index stood at 41.8 points (base year 2021=100).

The negative result reflects both a significant contraction in the domestic market and a pronounced slowdown abroad. In Italy, orders dropped by 57%, while foreign orders fell by 25%. The index for foreign markets stood at 43.3 points, while the domestic figure dropped to 30.5 points. The order backlog at the end of the quarter ensured 3.6 months of production.

The downturn also continues when compared to the previous quarter (October-December 2024), with overall orders decreasing by 15%.

Marco Salvadè, President of ACIMIT, commented: “The sector started 2025 on an even weaker footing than it ended 2024. On international markets, the deep uncertainty triggered by last year’s geopolitical tensions has been further worsened by the tariff decisions implemented by the Trump administration. In the US, orders remain at a standstill as the market awaits the next steps from the President. Some glimmers of hope come from the estimates of global export data for textile machinery in the first quarter: China, India, and Pakistan—key markets for technology suppliers—show signs of recovery compared to the same period in 2024.”

In Italy, the situation is even more critical, with the orders index at its lowest level, even surpassing the slump of 2020. “We need to look beyond 2025 and call on the Government to implement targeted, structural incentives for investments in capital goods, with simple procedures that allow companies to access them quickly”, Salvadè noted.

With a clear focus on sustainability, Barmag, a subsidiary of the Swiss Oerlikon Group, is presenting comprehensive solutions from its product brands Oerlikon Barmag and Oerlikon Neumag for DTY and carpet yarn production at the Morocco Stitch & Tex Expo in Casablanca. From May 13 to 15, trade visitors can talk to experts from Barmag and the joint venture BB Engineering (BBE) at the Unionmatex booth (booth B4) to get an idea of the portfolio of the chemical fiber machine manufacturer.

Sustainable and efficient – the production of DTY yarns
Oerlikon Barmag offers a wide range of DTY machine configurations for the efficient and sustainable production of high-quality textured yarns made of various polymers – from polyester and polyamide to polypropylene, PLA and PTT. The modular machines – whether manual or automatic – produce yarns for excellent downstream processing at optimal OPEX costs.

Fancy yarns increasingly in demand
The demand for textiles with special characteristics is continuously increasing. For the production of these effect yarns, such as cotton-like DTY, linen-like DTY or wool-like DTY, Oerlikon Barmag offers a variety of processes and additional components. With its high-quality and flexible technology as well as its detailed knowledge of the yarn path and the required parameter settings, Oerlikon Barmag is the ideal partner for the successful and flexible production as well as the continuous further development of these specialty yarns.

Extended product range for carpet yarns
Thanks to its comprehensive knowledge of all relevant technologies in manmade fiber spinning, Oerlikon Barmag is the only manufacturer worldwide that can expand its range for the production of carpet yarns. The system concept, based on a POY and texturing process, is designed for the carpet and home textile sector and produces particularly soft and bulky polyester threads with BCF-like properties. The aim is to produce yarns with a titer of up to 1300dtex and over 1000 filaments, such as 1300dtex f1152, 660dtex f1152 and 990dtex f768. The machine concept includes the well-known WINGS HD POY winder and the eAFK Big-V texturing machine.

Innovative bicomponent BCF yarn for the carpet market
Quality, efficiency and performance – with its latest development in the field of bicomponent yarns for carpet production, Barmag's product brand Oerlikon Neumag is meeting the carpet market's demand for innovative BCF yarns. The new BICO-BCF yarn is characterized by a richer and higher volume and simultaneously significantly reduces the raw material consumption during carpet manufacturing.

VarioFil® – versatile compact spinning system for diverse applications and specialties
The VarioFil® system from BBE is ideal for a broad range of products, whether it be carpets, upholstery fabrics, fashion, sports, seat belts or airbags. This compact turnkey spinning line is particularly suitable for producers of small batches or specialized products. It flexibly processes various polymers such as PET, PP, PA 6, PA 6.6 and PBT. In combination with Oerlikon Barmag texturing machines, a wide range of textile standard yarns as well as textured yarns with BCF-like properties can be produced.

The VarioFil® R+ enables the direct recycling and processing of PET bottle flakes and PET waste from the start-up process into POY. This sustainable machine concept offers a high degree of product flexibility, including the production of spun-dyed yarn.

JeTex® air texturing offers a versatile product portfolio
BB Engineering also offers flexible solutions for the subsequent texturing of yarns. The JeTex® air texturing system perfectly complements the Oerlikon Barmag DTY systems and expands the product portfolio to include high-quality ATY based on POY and FDY for various textile applications. The centerpiece of the system is the texturing box developed by BB Engineering, which ensures gentle yarn treatment with reliable texturing effects and production efficiency.

“From waste to value” with VacuFil and Visco
BBE's VacuFil PET recycling system transforms textile waste into high-quality rPET melt. The technology is based on decades of experience in extrusion, filtration and spinning and combines gentle large-area filtration with targeted IV control. VacuFil processes various input materials, from bottle flakes to production waste and post-consumer waste. The patented Visco+ component removes volatile contaminants and automatically regulates the IV. The recycled melt can be added to the main melt stream, pelletized into chips or fed directly back into the spinning mill. The VacuFil system is modular and flexibly adaptable to customer needs.

Order intake was significantly higher than in the previous year at CHF 725.5 million (2023: CHF 541.8 million), representing an increase of 34%. This was the fourth consecutive quarter of year-on-year growth. An initial market recovery was visible compared with the previous year. As expected, the Rieter Group closed financial year 2024 with lower sales of CHF 859.1 million (2023: CHF 1 418.6 million) and thus remained 39% below the prior year. Despite significantly lower sales, an operating result (EBIT) of CHF 28.0 million (2023: CHF 104.8 million) and thus a solid EBIT margin of 3.3% (2023: 7.4%) was achieved.

Sales by division
The Machines & Systems Division posted sales of CHF 424.9 million, a decrease of 56% compared with the previous year (2023: CHF 965.0 million). In the Components Division, sales declined to CHF 247.6 million, down 7% from the same period of the previous year (2023: CHF 266.2 million). The After Sales Division reported sales of CHF 186.6 million, comparable to the previous year (2023: CHF 187.4 million).

Order backlog
At the end of 2024, the company had an order backlog of about CHF 530 million (December 31, 2023: CHF 650 million).

EBIT, net profit and free cash flow
Profit at the EBIT level in the year under review was CHF 28.0 million (2023: CHF 104.8 million), which represents an EBIT margin of 3.3% (2023: 7.4%). Despite significantly lower sales, a solid EBIT margin was achieved. This is mainly due to the consistent implementation of the measures set out in the “Next Level” performance program. Rieter closed the 2024 financial year with a net profit of CHF 10.4 million (2023: CHF 74.0 million).

Free cash flow amounted to CHF 14.1 million (2023: CHF 118.7 million). Net debt increased due to new lease liabilities in connection with the Campus in Winterthur to CHF 230.3 million (2023: CHF 191.2 million).

The equity ratio as of December 31, 2024, rose to 33.7%, mainly due to positive currency effects and lower net working capital (previous year’s reporting date 28.8%).

Dividend
The Board of Directors proposes to shareholders the distribution of a dividend of CHF 2.00 per share for 2024 based on the positive free cash flow of CHF 14.1 million and the improved equity ratio of 33.7%. This corresponds to a payout ratio of 85.8%.

Sustainability
Rieter has a clearly defined sustainability strategy that is closely linked to the Group strategy. Through the Science Based Targets initiative, Rieter made a commitment in 2024 to define company-wide emission reduction targets for the year 2040, which are consistent with scientifically-based net-zero goals.In the 2024 Annual Report, the report on non-financial matters shows the progress Rieter has made in the areas of environmental, social and corporate governance.

Outlook 2025
Rieter expects a challenging first half in 2025 with regard to sales volume and a stronger second half-year depending on the further market recovery. As a consequence, Rieter anticipates a sales volume at the previous year’s level for the full year 2025. Despite this exceptionally low sales level, Rieter anticipates a positive EBIT margin between 0% to 4% for the year 2025.

Japanese computerized flat knitting technologist SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan, together with its Indian sales representative Universal MEP Projects & Engineering Services, Ltd., will participate in the upcoming Garments Machinery Manufacturers & Suppliers Association (GMMSA) Expo India 2025 exhibition to be held in Ludhiana, India next month.

N.SVR®183
SHIMA SEIKI will be exhibiting its WHOLEGARMENT® knitting technology whereby an item can be produced in one entire piece on the machine without linking or sewing. Its N.SVR®183 WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine produces WHOLEGARMENT® knitwear using every other needle in fine gauge. N.SVR®183 is equipped with the R2CARRIAGE® system and a compact, lightweight carriage for high productivity. Shown in 21G at the GMMSA Expo, N.SVR®183 is an ideal machine for flexible, entry-level WHOLEGARMENT® production, with the versatility to respond to fluctuating market demand.

N.SSR®112
Meanwhile the N.SSR®112 is a computerized flat knitting machine that offers leading technology in an economical yet reliable package. Featuring industry-leading innovations such as the R2CARRIAGE® that yields quicker carriage returns for greater efficiency, spring-type moveable sinker, DSCS® Digital Stitch Control System, stitch presser and takedown comb, Made-in-Japan quality, reliability and productivity, as well as user-friendliness and cost-performance combine to satisfy the high expectations of the world’s, and India’s, fashion industry. N.SSR®112 is even capable of WideGauge® knitting whereby a number of different gauges can be knit into a single garment.

SDS®-ONE APEX4 and APEXFiz®
SDS®-ONE APEX4 3D design system and APEXFiz® subscription-based design software support the creative side of fashion from planning and design to colorway evaluation, realistic fabric simulation and 3D virtual sampling. Virtual samples are a digitized version of sample making that are accurate enough to be used effectively as prototypes, replacing physical sampling and consequently reducing time, cost and material that otherwise go to waste. When a design is approved for production, knitting data which is automatically generated can be converted easily to machine data, allowing smooth communication for digitally bridging the gap between design studio and factory. SDS®-ONE APEX4 and APEXFiz® help to realize sustainability while digitally transforming the fashion supply chain.

Uster FiberQ automated raw material management generated more than 2,000 laydowns in a year for Sagar, one of India’s leading spinners. The results delivered consistent yarn quality and optimized process efficiency – giving a payback period of three months.

Sagar is taking advantage of the new annual subscription format, which includes the software solution plus valuable advisory services from Uster expert technologists.

After one year using FiberQ, A.K. Saini, Chief General Manager Operations at Sagar Manufacturers Pvt. Ltd., reported: “We have seen better fiber utilization, significantly improved yarn quality consistency and elimination of seldom-occurring faults such as white specks and barré. The overall outstanding results convinced our management about the value of FiberQ and we confirmed the renewal of the subscription services of FiberQ and the 360Q platform.”

Sagar insists on consistently high standards in yarn quality and performance. The company wanted to go even further, by optimizing its manufacturing operations and achieving maximum fiber yield.

Sagar Manufacturers Pvt. is renowned for excellence, in both its home country of India and the global textile marketplace, as a producer and supplier of top-class cotton yarns and knitted greige fabric. Saini says: “Our strategic focus is on integrating advanced technology and eco-friendly practices, for creative solutions which drive excellence in manufacturing performance and ensure customer satisfaction.”

Before FiberQ, the company was already proud of the excellent raw material management processes in its spinning operation. It was a determination to improve still further in both production efficiency and consistent quality which led to the decision to implement the Uster FiberQ raw material management solution.

Sagar has always embraced new technologies – especially those focused on innovation and automation – and it was naturally one of the first adopters of the FiberQ raw material management solution. FiberQ combines advanced technology and textile expertise to automate many tasks previously done manually. So it became a very interesting value proposition for progressive spinners like Sagar. The automated, intelligent, reliable and easy-to-use system minimized manual efforts but also provided consistent results. Uster’s end-to-end solution also offers access to continuous improvements such as supplier statistics and fiber-to-yarn correlation, which will add even more value in future.

Impact on production
Sagar figures show that yarn realization has increased by 0.3% to 0.5% on average and it has eliminated the need for ‘cut and creel’ – a big advantage in terms of efficiency and fewer changes in production. During the year, FiberQ generated more than 2,000 laydowns for all production units in a very efficient, fast and easy way. Another plus was the easily accessible laydown history and the visibility of the impact of different cotton lots in use.

Customer feedback has also been strong. Sagar’s improved quality consistency was said to have resulted in better fabric appearance. And since Sagar can now provide customers with bigger yarn lot sizes with the same quality and color properties, they can produce larger, uniform batches of knitted and dyed fabrics and save manufacturing costs.

Advisory service benefits
FiberQ is not only a software solution. It comes with advisory services from expert Uster textile technologists. The FiberQ advisory services ensure there is always a textile engineer with mill experience and deep knowledge available to support the spinners. As well as taking care of all aspects of installation, there are periodic assessments to track quality status from fiber to yarn, which is a unique competence of Uster and a highly appreciated element of the service.

FiberQ is offered as a yearly subscription service. For the industry, the idea of subscribing to a software service for raw material management is quite new, although it has been established for many years in other fields.

International technology group ANDRITZ has received an engineering order from US textile recycling innovator Circ in anticipation of its first large-scale textile recycling plant. The plant will be the first to recover cotton and polyester from blended textile waste.

Circ® is a pioneering company focused on sustainable solutions for the fashion industry. By converting fashion waste into reusable raw materials for fabrics, Circ reduces the need for petroleum and natural resources. The company’s mission is to build a truly circular economy to protect the planet from the cost of clothing.

ANDRITZ has been successfully conducting trials for Circ at the ANDRITZ Fiber R&D Center in Springfield, Ohio, USA, for several years. The successful partnership and recent developments have led to the decision to expand this cooperation.

The majority of fashion waste consists of polyester-cotton blends, which poses a significant challenge to achieving greater circularity. In particular, the separation of cellulosic and synthetic fibers from textile waste has been a major obstacle. Circ’s innovative recycling process can break down polycotton textile waste into its original components – polyester and cotton. The forthcoming plant will process 200 tons of textile waste per day, allowing cotton to be recycled for lyocell production and polyester to be reused for polyester production. This will reduce the need for virgin raw materials.

Conor Hartman, Chief Operating Officer at Circ, says: “We remain excited about this continued collaboration with ANDRITZ. Together, we will commercialize Circ’s innovative recycling process and take another step towards a truly circular fashion industry. With its expertise in engineering and building large-scale process equipment, ANDRITZ is the right partner to help us transform textile waste into recycled fibers on an industrial level.

Michael Waupotitsch, Vice President Textile Recycling at ANDRITZ, comments: “We are eager to support Circ in their vision of circularity because the technology they have developed is uniquely suited to solve one of the biggest challenges in fashion waste and recycling. With our holistic knowledge in resizing, mechanical separation, hydrothermal processing, recovery of cellulosic pulp as well as pulp cleaning and pulp drying, we have the right expertise to help them achieve their goals. Our experience in process development and machinery will help bring their innovative recycling technology to life.”

At this year's CINTE Techtextil fair in Shanghai, DILO received the innovation award for its intensive needling technology “MicroPunch”. Recent developments in energy costs, particularly for electricity and gas, and given the increasing shortage of water resources, have led to a shift in thinking over the past few years. Together with economic efficiency, the evaluation of the environmental impact of production has become increasingly important.

For DILO, this meant focusing on needling technology for the fine and lightweight nonwoven sector over the last years. The individual elements of the intensive needling technology underwent a complete revision. It became clear that the high production rates could only be achieved using the two-dimensional kinematics of the needle beam of "HyperPunch" or "CycloPunch." The necessary high feed rates of around 50 mm per stroke, coupled with the highest stitching densities to achieve good abrasion resistance, led to a need of a significant increase of the number of needles and needle density—almost doubling from approximately 20,000 needles/meter/board to around 45,000 needles/meter/board. It also became obvious that ensuring a high efficiency rate in production also required the careful attention to a quick assembly of the needle boards with needle modules. A completely new approach was needed in the design and construction of the needle boards to enable rapid module exchange and achieve a very high mechanical precision.

Previously, needling technology was primarily used for a surface weight range starting at 100 g/m² up to several kilograms per m². The expansion into the range below 100 g/m², and potentially down to 30 g/m², now completes the applicability of needling technology. The intensive needling technology "MicroPunch" opens up an economical field for a wide variety of lightweight nonwoven fabrics that can be produced by a pure mechanical processes. The product characteristics achieved, such as abrasion resistance, are comparable to those of hydroentangeld nonwovens. Needled fabrics tend to have more volume and more stretch while offering similar tensile strength values. These special quality characteristics are particularly interesting for applications in hygiene, medicine, cosmetics, and for technical products.

With this new development, the energy required to produce lightweight nonwoven fabrics has been reduced up to approximately 75% compared to other bonding technologies of this segment.

Rico Randegger, Head of the Business Group After Sales and member of the Group Executive Committee, will step down from his position on December 31, 2024.

The Board of Directors of Rieter Holding Ltd. has appointed Alexander A. Özbahadir to the Group Executive Committee of the Rieter Group with effect from January 1, 2025. He will be responsible for the Business Group After Sales.

Alexander A. Özbahadir started his career with the Jungheinrich Group in Shanghai (China) and Hamburg (Germany). In 2017, he was Head of Global Sales and Marketing at Schindler Management Ltd., Ebikon (Switzerland). In 2020, he joined Schindler Group China, Shanghai (China), as Senior Vice President New Installations (NI) and Head of “China Growth”.

In the period from 2021 to 2024, he was Chief Executive Officer of C. Haushahn GmbH & Co. KG, Stuttgart (Germany), and, among other positions, he was Head of Acquisitions at Schindler Deutschland AG & Co. KG, Berlin (Germany). Most recently, as Senior Vice President, he was responsible for Global Account Management Europe at the Schindler Group in Ebikon (Switzerland).

Alexander A. Özbahadir was born in 1978 and is a German citizen.

Computerized textile solutions provider SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan, together with its Hong Kong and Chinese market subsidiary SHIMA SEIKI (HONG KONG) LTD., will exhibit at the 30th edition of the Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics show in Shanghai, China this month. It will exhibit as part of the newly established Digital Solutions Zone which allows visitors to capture various opportunities available as part of the digital revolution that is currently making waves in the apparel industry.

SHIMA SEIKI will be showing its APEXFiz® subscription-based design software which supports the creative side of fashion from planning and design to colorway evaluation, realistic fabric simulation and 3D virtual sampling. Virtual samples are a digitized version of sample making that are accurate enough to be used effectively as prototypes, replacing physical sampling and consequently reducing time, cost and material that eventually go to waste. The remarkable realism of textile simulation is achieved by using scanned data of actual yarn to virtually weave or knit, creating an image that resembles real fabric. These fabrics can be utilized in various 3D simulation software including APEXFiz® to create realistic product images. Should the design be approved for production, machine data can be generated to allow smooth communication for digitally bridging the gap between the studio and factory. APEXFiz® thereby helps to realize sustainability and digitally transform the fashion supply chain.

The product planning capability of APEXFiz® is enhanced by several web services featured as part of the SHIMA SEIKI Online Services (SHIMA online) web platform. These include SHIMA Datamall™ digital content web service that allows users to search, browse and purchase a variety of useful data for streamlining the planning and production of fashion items, as well as the yarnbank® digital yarn sourcing web service that offers digitized yarn data by yarn companies from around the world for download and use in virtual sampling.

Knitwear samples produced on the latest lineup of computerized flatbed knitting machines and exclusive to SHIMA SEIKI computerized knitting technology will also be on display, including WHOLEGARMENT® knitwear that can be produced in their entirety without linking or sewing, as well as hybrid knit-weave samples proposed as an alternative to wovens.

As a traditional textile country, India has also established a strong position in the field of manmade fiber production in recent decades. The West Asian country has now become the second largest polyester yarn manufacturer in the world. The Indian textile industry covers the entire value chain from the melt to the finished textile end product.

The technical textiles sector in particular is regarded as a future market. With an average growth rate of 12% since 2013, this dynamic sector accounts for around 13% of the entire Indian textile and clothing market, according to the government organization Invest India. The market volume has almost doubled in the past ten years. In India, the production of industrial yarn has so far relied heavily on polyamide. Oerlikon Barmag has a strong market position here. "In recent years, we have commissioned plants for numerous customers," says Dr. Wolfgang Ernst, Head of Sales of the Oerlikon Business Unit Manmade Fibers Solutions.

Increasing demand for industrial polyester yarns
The construction boom and the increasing use of geotextiles and industrial textiles in various infrastructure projects as well as in agriculture and aquaculture show enormous growth potential. This is supported by the government's 2021 industrial development program, which includes technical textiles as one of ten priority sectors. The program is based on reducing dependence on imports. Until now, a large proportion of the technical textiles and yarns required in the country have been imported.

The trend towards high-quality technical textiles for the domestic market has also been noted by the Remscheid-based machine and plant manufacturer. "We are receiving more and more inquiries from Indian customers for spinning systems for industrial yarns," says Dr. Wolfgang Ernst. "What is new is the great interest shown by companies from downstream processes that are looking for backward integration. We attribute this to the stricter regulations of the Bureau of Indian Standards. Until now, industrial yarns were mainly imported from China. In order to guarantee the quality of the processed yarns, this has been strictly regulated by the government since last year. It therefore makes sense for Indian textile producers to enter the yarn manufacturing sector." This development was also noticeable at this year's Techtextil in Frankfurt, where the experts from Oerlikon Barmag were able to hold a disproportionately high number of technical discussions with Indian customers and interested parties.

The flexible spinning concepts of Oerlikon Barmag enable a variety of possible yarn products for numerous applications. The portfolio includes processes for the production of polyamide and polyester yarns with the required physical properties for a wide range of end applications, whether HMLS yarns for car tires, yarns for geotextiles, safety belts or even airbags.