From the Sector

Textile waste is a problem in Europe. Out of 7-7.5 million tonnes of textiles discarded every year, 30-35 % are collected separately – and of that quantity, 15-20 % are sorted by medium and larger sorting facilities within the EU. After sorting, 60 % still qualify as wearable clothes, however after a second or third collection-loop, all of the textiles become non-wearable sooner or later. Therefore, fibre-to-fibre recycling is becoming increasingly important to preserve the valuable resources.
 
The textile recycling value chain is not yet mature, but we are on the verge of a turning point, as different fibre-recycling technologies are deployed on a large scale. If successful, the textile recycling industry could reach a recycling rate of 18 to 26 percent of gross textile waste in 2030. This would create economic, social and environmental value that could total 3.5 to 4.5 billion euros in 2030.

Today, there is a sorting gap to achieve a circular economy for textiles in Europe. To feed this new circular value chain, a significant sorting-capacity increase is needed with 150 to 250 sorting and recycling facilities nearby, as the McKinsey-study “turning waste into value” assessed.

There is also a technology and capacity gap in sorting for reuse and recycling to ensure that high quality raw materials from non-wearable textile waste can be made available on a large scale. This is why the “Transform Textile Waste into Feedstock” project was initiated by TEXAID, within the ReHubs initiative together with well-known stakeholders of the textile value chain.

The major outcome of this project will be a sorting-factory blueprint fulfilling the requirements to the future needs of fibre-to-fibre recycling, enabling the future of more sustainable textiles by using recycled fibres. TEXAID, who is leading the project, is committed to build and operate scalable sorting facilities across Europe, the first with a capacity of 50,000 tonnes by the end of 2024.

Companies like Concordia, CuRe Technology, Decathlon, Inditex, Indorama Ventures, L’Atelier des Matières, Lenzing, Marchi & Fildi, PurFi, Södra, Worn Again and others are taking part in the project to jointly evaluate technologies and the business case for scaled sorting for reuse and recycling. ITA Academy GmbH (in cooperation with RWTH Aachen) together with CETIA has been commissioned for the assessment of technologies. The outcome will be an innovative sorting system 4.0, building on cross-functional technologies with digitalization and automation are at the heart.

• Sales of CHF 890.3 million in second half-year 2022
• EBIT margin of around 2% expected for full year 2022
• Order intake of CHF 1 157.3 million in 2022; order backlog of around CHF 1 540 million as of December 31, 2022
• Preparations for ITMA 2023 on schedule
• Implementation of action plan to increase sales and profitability ongoing
• Rieter site sales process on schedule

For Rieter, in addition to the geopolitical uncertainties, the 2022 financial year was characterized by three main challenges:
Due to the rapid rise in inflation, the exceptionally high order backlog of around CHF 1 840 million at the beginning of 2022 was processed at significantly higher costs. It was only possible to offset these higher costs in part by means of price increases and other remedial measures.

In order to safeguard deliveries, it was necessary to compensate for serious material bottlenecks, particularly in electronic components, which resulted in considerable additional development expenditure.

Major expenses were also incurred in connection with the acquired businesses (Accotex, Temco and Winder).

Sales
The realization of sales from the exceptionally high order backlog developed better than expected. With sales of CHF 1 510.9 million, Rieter achieved an increase of 56% compared with the previous year (2021: CHF 969.2 million). In the second half of 2022, especially in the fourth quarter, the measures introduced to address material bottlenecks had a positive impact. Consequently, sales increased to CHF 890.3 million compared with the first six months (first half-year 2022: CHF 620.6 million).

EBIT margin
The trend in the EBIT margin was strongly influenced by substantial cost increases, which could only be offset in part through price increases and other remedial measures. In addition, to compensate for material shortages, expenses were incurred in connection with the development of alternative solutions and the acquired businesses.

Rieter succeeded in improving profitability compared with the first half of 2022 due to the higher sales volume and offsetting measures to compensate for increased costs, and expects a positive EBIT margin of around 2% for the full year 2022 (2021: 4.9%).

Order intake
In line with expectations, the order intake of CHF 1 157.3 million in 2022 was below the record year of 2021 (CHF 2 225.7 million). The market situation is characterized by investment restraint due to geopolitical uncertainties, higher financing costs and consumer reticence in important markets.

Order backlog
The company had an order backlog of around CHF 1 540 million at the end of 2022, which thus extends well into 2023 and 2024. In 2022, Rieter recorded order cancellations of less than 10% of the order backlog of CHF 1 840 million at the beginning of the year.

Preparations for ITMA 2023 on schedule
Rieter has continued to boost its innovative capability and, in order to further extend its technology leadership, will present new innovative solutions at ITMA 2023 in Milan.

Action plan to increase sales and profitability
Implementation of the action plan to increase sales and profitability is ongoing. With regard to the profitability of the order backlog, which remains high, the implemented price increases in combination with a favorable trend in costs, particularly in logistics, are having an impact. In addition, progress was made in eliminating material bottlenecks and reducing expenses for the three acquired businesses.

Rieter site sales process
The sales process for the remaining land at the Rieter site in Winterthur (Switzerland) is proceeding according to plan. In total, around 75 000 m² of land will be sold. The Rieter CAMPUS is not part of this transaction.

Results press conference 2023
Rieter will provide further details on the 2022 financial year and an outlook for the 2023 financial year on March 9, 2023.

Global Fashion Summit, a leading international forum for sustainability in fashion, will convene core stakeholders across the fashion ecosystem and parallel industries to drive tangible action on social and environmental sustainability. The Summit is presented by Global Fashion Agenda (GFA). GFA is a non-profit organisation that is accelerating the transition to a net positive fashion industry, under the patronage of HRH The Crown Princess of Denmark. Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition 2023 will take place on 27-28 June in Copenhagen, Denmark.

The theme of Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition 2023 is ‘Ambition to Action’. Under this premise, the Summit will present content experiences focused on tangible impact.

The theme will underly all elements of the Summit and Main Stage speakers will showcase inspiring thought leadership for accelerated change by exploring a matrix of interconnected topics. The 2023 Copenhagen Edition will build on more than a decade’s worth of Summit guidance and outcomes by dedicating even more focus towards action-oriented workshops and case studies. Through these formats, the forum will demonstrate tangible learnings and concrete recommendations that can help drive implementation.
 
The forum will also host strategic roundtable meetings with the aim to mobilise industry leaders to build alliances with solution providers, policy makers, investors and other industry stakeholders and implement immediate solutions. Such alliances can set in motion progress towards a net positive industry. With upcoming policy expected to influence the fashion industry even further this year, the Summit will shed light on the ongoing pieces of legislation currently under discussion both within the EU and worldwide.

This year’s Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition is supported by Principal Sponsor, Maersk. A globally renowned leader in logistics that aims to deliver a more connected, agile and sustainable future for global logistics. Maersk will support the Summit's agenda to accelerate industry transformation by highlighting how logistics can help the fashion and lifestyle industry in reaching their sustainability goals.

Additionally, the Innovation Forum will present a curated exhibition of other leading sustainable solutions. Summit attendees can meet with exhibitors covering the entire value chain – from innovative materials to end-of-use solutions. Innovation Forum Matchmaking will enable small and large fashion businesses to advance their sustainability journey, by providing the unique opportunity to be matched with relevant solution providers. 

For the third time, nova-Institute awards the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year” award in the frame of the “Cellulose Fibres Conference 2023” (8-9 March 2023). The conference advisory board nominated six remarkable products, including cellulose fibres from textile waste, banana production waste and bacterial pulp, a novel technology for producing lyocell yarns and a hygiene product. The innovations will be put to the vote of the conference audience on the first day of the event, with the awards ceremony taking place in the evening. The innovation award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2023” is sponsored by GIG Karasek (AT).

Here are the six nominees
Vybrana – The new generation banana fibre – GenCrest Bioproducts (India)
Vybrana is a Gencrest’s Sustainable Cellulosic Fibre upcycled from agrowaste. Raw fibres are extracted from the Banana Pseudo stem at the end of the plant lifecycle. The biomass waste is then treated by the Gencrest patented Fiberzyme technology. Here, cocktail enzyme formulations remove the high lignin content and other impurities and help fibre fibrillation. The company's proprietary cottonisation process provides fine, spinnable cellulose staple fibres suitable for blending with other staple fibres and can be spun on any conventional spinning systems giving yarns sustainable apparel. Vybrana is produced without the use of heavy chemicals and minimized water consumption and in a waste-free process where balance biomass is converted to bio stimulants Agrosatva and Bio Fertilizers & organic manure.

HeiQ AeoniQ™ – technology for more sustainability of textiles – HeiQ (Austria)
HeiQ AeoniQ™ is the disruptive technology and key initiative from HeiQ with the potential to change the sustainability of textiles. It is the first climate-positive continuous cellulose filament yarn, made in a proprietary manufacturing process and the first to reproduce the properties of polyester and nylon yarns in a cellulosic, biodegradable, and endlessly recyclable fibre.
HeiQ AeoniQ™ can be manufactured from different cellulosic raw materials such as pre- and post-consumer textile waste, biotech cellulose, and non-valorized agricultural waste, such as ground coffee waste or banana peels. It naturally degrades after only 12 weeks in the soil. Each ton of HeiQ AeoniQ™ saves 5 tons of CO2 emissions. The first garments made with this innovative cellulosic filament fiber were commercially launched in January 2023.

TENCEL™ LUXE – lyocell filament yarn – Lenzing (Austria)
TENCEL™ LUXE is LENZING’s new versatile lyocell yarn that offers an urgently needed sustainable filament solution for the textile and fashion industry. A possible botanical alternative for silk, long-staple cotton, and petrol-based synthetic filaments, is derived from wood grown in renewable, sustainably managed forests, and produced in an environmentally sound, closed-loop process that recycles water and reuses more than 99 % of organic solvent. Certified by The Vegan Society, it is suitable for a wide range of applications and fabric developments, from finer high fashion propositions to denim constructions, seamless and activewear innovations, and even agricultural and technical solutions.

Nullarbor™ – Nanollose & Birla Cellulose (Australia/India)
In 2020, Nanollose & Birla Cellulose started a journey to develop and commercialize tree-free lyocell from bacterial cellulose, called Nullarbor™. The name derives from the Latin “nulla arbor” which means “no trees”. Initial lab research at both ends led to a joint patent application with the patent “production of high-tenacity lyocell fibres made from bacterial cellulose”.
Nullarbor is significantly stronger than lyocell made from wood-based pulp; even adding small amounts of bacterial cellulose to wood pulp increases the fibre toughness. In 2022, the first pilot batch of 260kg was produced with 20 % bacterial pulp share. Several high-quality fabrics and garments were produced with this fibre. The collaboration between Nanollose & Birla Cellulose now focuses on increasing the production scale and amount of bacterial pulp in the fibre.

Circulose® – makes fashion circular – Renewcell (Sweden)
Circulose® made by Renewcell is a branded dissolving pulp made from 100 % textile waste, like worn-out clothes and production scraps. It provides a unique material for fashion that is 100 % recycled, recyclable, biodegradable, and of virgin-equivalent quality. It is used by fibre producers to make staple fibre or filaments like viscose, lyocell, modal, acetate or other types of man-made cellulosic fibres. In 2022, Renewcell, opened the world’s first textile-to-textile chemical recycling plant in Sundsvall, Sweden – Renewcell 1. The plant will eventually reach 120,000 tons of annual capacity.

Sparkle sustainable sanitary pads – Sparkle Innovations (United States)
Globally, around 300 billion period products are discarded every year, resulting in millions of tons of non-biodegradable waste. Since most conventional sanitary pads contain up to 90 % plastics, they do not biodegrade for around 600 years. Sparkle has designed sustainable, plastic-free, biodegradable and compostable Sparkle sanitary pads. From product to packaging, they are made up of around 90 % cellulose-based materials with top sheet, absorbent core, release paper, wrapping paper and packaging made of cellulose-based fibres. Whether Sparkle pads end up in a compost pit, are incinerated or end up in a landfill, they are a more sustainable alternative compared to conventional pads that contain large amounts of plastics, complex petro-chemical based ingredients and artificial fragrances. When tested according to ISO 14855-1 by a leading independent lab in Europe, Sparkle pads reached over 90 % absolute biodegradation within 90 days in commercial composting conditions.

• Auraloop is a brand-new range of cushioning solutions made from an innovative structure of Polyester-based fibers, 100% recyclable, aimed at the mobility markets
• One of the objectives of Auraloop is a twofold reduction in the carbon footprint of car seat pads, currently made from polyurethane foam
• Auraloop offers an increased level of performance in terms of thermal comfort and durability

R&D teams within the Faurecia seating activity have recently penned an exclusive development agreement with Indorama Ventures. This partnership between Indorama Ventures and Faurecia, a company of FORVIA Group which is one of the largest automotive industry suppliers, has the aim of developing Auraloop, a new range of cushioning solutions for the mobility markets and intended to replace polyurethane foam currently used in car seats.

“By setting out these initial milestones in our close-knit collaboration with Faurecia, this partnership is an integral part of Indorama Ventures’ commitment to expand its existing Polyester (PET)-based portfolio and related activities into wider areas. By bringing together two leading players in the automotive industry, we aim to open up further growth opportunities for both partners”, stated Arnaud Closson, Chief Executive Officer at Indorama Ventures’ Mobility Group / Fibers Segment.

“Auraloop will replace those materials currently used in car seating with innovative and sustainable materials, based on polyester fibers that offer a total recyclability of 100%. This new material will allow for a twofold reduction in the carbon footprint of car seat pad solutions compared to current materials”, explains Nicolas Michot, Director of Technology at Faurecia Seating. Development of this product, which paves the way towards wider commercial release in two or three years, falls within the FORVIA Group strategy of going carbon neutral by 2045. For this, the group is seeking to root its commercial offer fully in the circular economy, with the development and production of sustainable cutting-edge materials under the banner of MATERI’ACT.

Auraloop offers a range of new perspectives in terms of seating comfort thanks to a more open fiber structure and permeability for air than current seating pad solutions, the breathability of seating is improved, enabling a better passive thermal regulation of occupants. The durability of seating is also increased by limited subsidence of the seat over its lifetime. The market for comfort aboard vehicles is constantly growing. The development of Auraloop falls within this dynamic, with a product offering significantly improved performances in terms of static, dynamic and welcoming comfort.

AVK, the Federation of Reinforced Plastics, has once again awarded its Innovation Awards to a range of companies, institutes and their partners in 2022. Three innovative composites from each of the three categories Products & Applications, Processes & Methods and Research & Science were honoured during the JEC Forum for Germany, Austria and Switzerland in Augsburg at an award ceremony on 29 November 2022. A professional jury, composed of engineers, scientists and trade journalists, presented the awards for 2022 in three categories.

List of award winners in the three categories:
Products & Applications category
First place: LAMILUX Composites GmbH, Rehau, Germany: Lamilux Sunsation® – the new standard under the sun
Second place: Carbo-Link AG, Fehraltorf, Switzerland: CL RESTRAP – Reinforcement of concrete girders using flexible, prestressed CRP tapes
Third place: Borgers SE & Co. KGaA, Bocholt, Germany: blue label by Borgers ®

Innovative Processes & Methods category
First place: BaltiCo GmbH, Hohen Luckow, Germany: Rod laying technology as an additive manufacturing process
Second place: Schmidt & Heinzmann GmbH & Co. KG, Bruchsal, Germany: Pole Position, a positioning system for polarisation imaging
Third place: NETZSCH Process Intelligence GmbH, Selb, Germany: SensXPERT, process optimisation driven by material data to increase the efficiency of thermosets and fibre composites

Research & Science category
First place: Institute for Textile Machinery and High Performance Textiles at the Technical University of Dresden: Spherically curved fibre-reinforced plastic composite components made from near-net-shape fabrics
Second place: Leibniz-Institut für Verbundwerkstoffe GmbH, Kaiserslautern, Germany: HyKoPerm – a measurement system for an industry-specific characterisation of textile impregnation behaviour
Third place: Technical University of Munich, Chair of Carbon Composites: Manufacturing processes for a tension-strut-supported pressure vessel that can be adapted to suit a given space

Baldwin Technology Company Inc. announced that Igatex Pakistan will officially kick off its new partnership with long-established Pakistan textile technology agent Al Ameen Trading Corporation. Representatives from both companies will team up to demonstrate Baldwin’s highly sustainable TexCoat™ G4 finishing system.

Igatex, the International Exhibition for Garment, Textile Machinery and Accessories, takes place December 1-4 at the Expo Centre in Lahore. Baldwin and Al Ameen will demonstrate TexCoat G4 and provide details on Baldwin’s Plasma Pure corona treatment as well as TexMoister G2™ remoistening systems technologies.

Baldwin’s TexCoat G4 non-contact precision-spray technology helps textile finishers up their game by enabling consistent, high-quality finishing, with zero chemistry waste and drastically minimized water and energy consumption. With Baldwin’s innovative system, the chemistry is precisely distributed across the textile surface and is applied only where it is required, on one or both sides of the fabric. The non-contact technology eliminates chemistry dilution in wet-on-wet processes, allowing full control of maintaining consistent chemistry coverage rates. Plus, pad bath contamination is eliminated, and changeovers are only required when there is a change of finish chemistry.

From 7 – 9 December 2022, Cinte Techtextil China will welcome visitors sourcing solutions for 12 application areas of technical textiles and nonwovens at the National Exhibition and Convention Center in Shanghai.

A number of countries and regions are represented at the fair’s International Zone, with companies from Austria, Belgium, France, Germany, Hong Kong, Italy, the Netherlands, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Taiwan, and the US. Standout international exhibitors include:

• TESTEX, an international, independent Swiss institute which specialises in the testing and certification of textile and leather products. The organisation is a founding member and official representative of the OEKO-TEX® Association, and will present their certification services at the fairground.
• Cotton Council International (CCI) is a non-profit trade association that promotes US cotton fibre and manufactured cotton products, with their COTTON USA™ Mark. At this year’s fair they will showcase cotton spunlace fabric, wipes, kitchen tissues, facial masks, cosmetic removers, and more, with their products particularly applicable to Agrotech, Clothtech, Medtech, and Sporttech.
• Graf + Cie AG is a subsidiary of the Rieter Group, and a leading supplier of clothing for carding and combs for combing machines in the short- and long-staple spinning industry. This year, the Swiss company will showcase stationary flats, and metallic card clothing for roller cards.
• At the returning German Pavilion, buyers can source sought-after technical textiles and nonwovens that are renowned for their quality. The companies and expertise on display at this pavilion are endorsed by the Federal Republic of Germany, with several exhibitors highlighted below:
• Brückner Textile Technologies GmbH & Co KG has developed machinery for the textile industry since 1949. Today, the company offers complete line systems for the dry finishing of both woven and knitted fabric, as well as for technical textiles, glass fibres, and floor coverings.
• Perlon (Zhejiang) Co Ltd is part of a global group of companies that specialises in the manufacture of synthetic filaments, with factories in China, Germany, Poland, and the US. Their products have a diverse range of potential uses, largely categorised in the Agrotech and Indutech application areas.
• IBENA Textilwerke GmbH produces various functional fabrics for Protech. At the fair, the company will be showcasing insulative, flame retardant (FR) textiles for firefighting and search & rescue services. Developed with DuPont™ aramid material, their FR properties will not diminish after washing or repeated use.

This year’s fair also sees the return of the Taiwan Zone. With support from the Taiwan Nonwoven Fabrics Industry Association, the area will showcase a range of industry leading nonwoven products and services, by brands such as KNH Enterprise, Nan Liu Enterprise, Unique Pretty Ind, and Web-Pro Corporation.

As a world’s largest manufacturer of technical textiles, China is home to a vast array of companies responsible for innovative products. Some domestic exhibitors to look out for are:

• CTA Hi-Textiles Co Ltd, a high-tech enterprise controlled by China Textile Science Research Institute. In recent years, the company has developed several new textile composite materials, and their products are widely used in sectors such as national defence, policing and public security, medical protection, and engineering and manufacturing.
• Sateri is one of the world’s largest producers of viscose fibre, with an annual capacity of 1.8 million metric tonnes. At their mills, they make yarn and fibre products applicable to sectors such as beauty, hygiene and personal care, medical, wipes, and protective wear.

To help international buyers stay connected with the Chinese market, Match Plus, the fair’s online business matching platform, will support foreign buyers achieve their sourcing goals despite travel limitations. Further information on Match Plus will be available at a later stage.

The fair’s product categories cover 12 application areas, which comprehensively span a full range of potential uses in modern technical textiles and nonwovens. These categories also cover the entire industry, from upstream technology and raw materials providers to finished fabrics, chemicals and other solutions.

Founded in Catania, Italy in 2014, Orange Fiber has developed a process to transform what remains from the industrial pressing process of citrus fruits for juice into a unique textile material. The innovative process has been patented in Italy and extended to major citrus juice producing countries around the world.

Recently, Orange Fiber and the Lenzing Group, a leading manufacturer of textile fibers specialties from wood, started a collaboration to produce the first lyocell fiber branded TENCEL™ composed of cellulose from orange and from wood. Produced using the same closed-loop process as the TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers, the TENCEL™ Limited Edition x Orange Fiber contributes to promote sustainability in the textiles. The name of the fiber is LENZING Lyocell LE orange, abbreviated to OF in the yarn and in the fabric composition.

• Carbios’ biorecycling and biodegradation technologies internationally recognized by consumers as promising answers to their top environmental concerns
• Carbios’ innovations considered one of the best for solving recycling effectively and achieving a real plastic circularity
• Consumer research including qualitative and quantitative fields was conducted between March and August 2022. The research institute, Strategic Research, conducted 6000 interviews in Europe and USA

Carbios’ biorecycling and biodegradation technologies acclaimed by consumers
During the first research field study, respondents were exposed to Carbios’ biorecycling process; a new enzyme-based biotechnology that enables biological recycling of all types of PET plastic waste (including bottles, packaging and textiles), and pushes the boundaries of recycling in terms of the number of cycles.

The research results demonstrated that European and US respondents find Carbios’ biorecycling technology more unique and innovative than traditional PET recycling (i.e. thermo-mechanical recycling), as well as more relevant in its ability to address their concerns and challenges regarding recycling.

In the second research study, conducted in the US, respondents were also exposed to Carbios’ biodegradation technology: an innovative enzymatic solution by which an enzyme is incorporated into plastics during the production process of bio-sourced PLA plastics (corn, sugar cane). This approach makes the material made from plants 100% compostable at ambient temperatures and degradable like plants with the built-in enzyme biologically breaking the bioplastic down in less than eight weeks without microplastics or toxic residues; creating a fully organic circularity.

Similarly to Carbios’ biorecycling technology, Carbios’ PLA biodegradation innovation caught US respondents’ attention with 64% overall liking it. Additionally, 93% of the respondents sampled described the concept as innovative, unique, easy to understand (49%), and believable (43%). Up to 82% of the most environmentally engaged respondents declared they would definitely buy more products made with Carbios’ fully circular biodegradable bioplastic.

Consumers: No other choice but to make plastic fully circular
The research says 99% of the respondents consider it important to protect the environment, while plastic pollution is now ranked the third most-concerning environmental issues after climate change and ocean pollution.

This awareness brings most of these consumers to be environmentally active when it comes to purchasing goods and sorting. For the US respondents, eco-friendly packaging comes in the fourth place in terms of purchase drivers for packaged goods and 65% of them declare sorting plastic from general waste on a regular basis, which makes plastic the most sorted type of waste.

Nevertheless, for a vast majority of the respondents across geographies, even if they would like to reduce their plastic consumption most of the time there is no suitable alternative that is as convenient, light, and cost-efficient as plastics. Hence in an ideal world, consumers would like all plastic waste in landfills and oceans to be collected, cleaned, reused and recycled.