From the Sector

Istanbul Apparel Exporters’ Association (İHKİB) and Bilişim Vadisi -Technology Development Zone (Informatics Valley) have signed a Cooperation Protocol to enhance the competitiveness of the Turkish apparel industry in global markets. Under this protocol, the parties will develop projects and work packages that add value to the sector, focusing primarily on twin transformation, sustainability, the circular economy, and design. 

Speaking at the signing ceremony, İHKİB Vice President Mustafa Paşahan noted that Türkiye is the world’s seventh-largest apparel supplier and the third-largest supplier to the European Union (EU). He stated that Türkiye accounts for 3.2% of global apparel exports, and continued: 

“We are a leading country in apparel production. Thanks to our high quality, rapid and flexible manufacturing capabilities, and geographical advantages, we stand out from our competitors. We already comply with European standards in areas such as recycling, carbon footprint reduction, digitalization, and social compliance. To further strengthen our position in global markets, we aim to build on these existing strengths and turn digital and green transformation into key opportunities. In this process, we are making effective use of EU funds through projects developed under the IPA (Instrument for Pre-accession Assistance). So far, we have secured €37 million in EU funding. In February, we successfully completed our METAMORPHOSIS project under IPA II, one of the key outcomes of which was the establishment of the Digital Transformation Center, which now serves the industry. Last month, we launched our MIDAS project, also with EU funding, to provide the necessary infrastructure for twin transformation among SMEs. Later this year, we will initiate our 'Carbon Footprint Tracking and Reduction' project, again supported by EU funds. With our new partnership with Bilişim Vadisi, we believe we will launch many innovative projects that will further enhance the global competitiveness of our fashion industry, especially in digitalization and green transformation.” 

ERKAM TUZGEN: CONNECTING STAKEHOLDERS WITHIN THE SAME ECOSYSTEM 
General Manager of Bilişim Vadisi Erkam Tüzgen also shared his thoughts: “Next-generation textile technologies are being driven not only by major players but also by creative startups. Through this program, we are bringing together young entrepreneurs, designers, and technology developers within a shared ecosystem. Bilişim Vadisi will continue to act as a catalyst at this intersection of technology and design.”

Under the protocol, the two parties will apply for national and international support programs focused on digitalization, green transformation, sustainability, the circular economy, and creative industries. They will jointly develop projects and work packages aligned with strategic goals in the technology and design sectors. By collaborating with their affiliates and stakeholders, they will form solution-oriented partnerships in digital transformation and design processes. They will also engage in joint efforts through structures such as digitalization and design clustering centers. Entrepreneurs based in Bilişim Vadisi will be given opportunities to grow through partnerships with İHKİB members.

The European Chemicals Agency brings forward a proposal for an EU-wide restriction on certain hexavalent chromium, Cr(VI), substances. The aim is to reduce the harmful effects of these carcinogenic chemicals for both workers and the public.

At the request of the European Commission, ECHA has assessed the risks posed by certain Cr(VI) substances to workers and the public as well as the socio-economic impacts of potential restrictions.

The Agency concluded that an EU-wide restriction is justified as Cr(VI) substances are among the most potent workplace carcinogens and pose a serious risk to workers’ health. People living near industrial sites that release these substances into the environment are also at risk of lung and intestinal cancers.

ECHA proposes to introduce a ban on Cr(VI) substances, except in the following use categories when they meet defined limits for worker exposure and environmental emissions:

1. Formulation of mixtures
2. Electroplating on plastic substrate
3. Electroplating on metal substrate
4. Use of primers and other slurries
5. Other surface treatment
6. Functional additives/process aids

Such a restriction could replace the current authorisation requirements under REACH, ensuring that the risks associated with Cr(VI) substances are effectively controlled once they are no longer subject to REACH authorisation. Additionally, barium chromate is included in the scope of the restriction to avoid regrettable substitution.

The restriction could prevent up to 17 tonnes of Cr(VI) from being released into the environment and avoid up to 195 cancer cases each year. Over 20 years, the total monetised benefits are estimated to be €331 million or €1.07 billion, depending on the restriction option chosen. The total cost to European society is estimated at either €314 million or €3.23 billion. These costs include investments in measures to reduce environmental releases and worker exposure, cost of closures and relocations, and replacing Cr(VI) substances with safer alternatives.

All stakeholders have the opportunity to provide information backed by robust evidence during a six-month consultation, which is expected to start on 18 June 2025. ECHA is planning to organise an online information session to explain the restriction process and help stakeholders take part in the consultation.

Next steps
ECHA’s scientific Committees for Risk Assessment and Socio-Economic Analysis will evaluate the restriction proposal. In their evaluation, they will consider the scientific evidence received during the consultations.
The European Commission, together with the 27 EU Member States, will take the decision on the restriction and its conditions – based on ECHA’s proposal and the committees’ opinion.

ECHA is the EU’s chemicals agency responsible for implementing EU chemical regulations.

On 8-9 April 2025, social partners from the Turkish textile industry met in Istanbul to discuss different topics such as the green and digital transition, due diligence and brand responsibility, skills and training in the textile sector, as well as the next steps in their efforts to achieve broader and more effective social dialogue.

In the context of the EU-funded StitchTogether project, which aims at promoting social partnerships in the European Textiles and Clothing Industry in seven countries in the EU and Türkiye, this seminar was also the occasion to draft the Istanbul Declaration: a joint statement to emphasise the social partners’ strong commitment to work together.

The meeting in Türkiye brought together representatives of the Turkish textile industry, including the Turkish employer association (TTSİS), national trade unions (Teksif, Öz İplik İş, DİSK Tekstil), brands representatives, the Ministry of Labour and stakeholders from the International Labour Organisation (ILO) and the Social Labour Convergence Programme, to discuss the future of the industry.

Together, social partners call upon the Government and the European Union to support the upcoming transformation of the textile and clothing industries, technology and skills upgrades, regional development and just transition. The Istanbul Declaration also includes a series of priorities, confirming social partners’ commitment in working together for a more competitive and fair Turkish textile industry.   

Judith Kirton-Darling, IndustriAll Europe's general secretary stated that “There are more than 1 million workers in the textile industry in Türkiye, who are facing many challenges which they have to adapt to. We stand in solidarity with our Turkish partners and recall the fundamental importance of freedom of association and freedom of collective bargaining in both law and practice, essential for the sector’s economic resilience.”

Dirk Vantyghem, EURATEX Director General, stressed that “Turkish companies face important challenges to adapt to a fast changing environment. This requires flexibility and joint efforts from workers and employers alike, to remain competitive. A constructive and open social dialogue is critical in this regard.”

EDANA, the global association and voice representing the nonwovens and related industries, and INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, jointly express their concerns regarding escalating trade tensions.

Both associations recognize the potential for countermeasures and reciprocal tariffs to negatively impact the nonwovens industry globally. The nonwovens industry is a global sector, with many companies having significant operations worldwide, including in Europe and the United States. It is crucial to avoid a harmful cycle of retaliatory tariffs that could have a net negative effect on economies worldwide.

Both EDANA and INDA urge policymakers to prioritize negotiations and seek mutually beneficial resolutions. “While we understand the need to address unfair trade practices, we urge regions to prioritize negotiations and seek mutually beneficial resolutions,” stated Murat Dogru, General Manager at EDANA. “Escalating tariffs create uncertainty and can disrupt supply chains, ultimately harming industries and consumers.”  

Tony Fragnito, INDA’s President & CEO added, “The nonwovens industry supports fair trade and a level playing field. We encourage policymakers to consider the broader impact of trade measures and to pursue policies that foster collaboration and free trade.”  

EDANA and INDA highlight the significant role of the nonwovens industry in providing essential materials for various sectors, including hygiene, healthcare, and manufacturing in many regions, including Europe and the United States. The associations urge the US and EU to recognize the interconnectedness of the industry and the importance of maintaining open trade between the regions. At a time when manufacturers are facing cost pressures from many angles, it is imperative that American and European manufacturers remain competitive globally and have long-term clarity on import costs.  

EDANA and INDA remain dedicated to promoting trade policies that support a strong and adaptable nonwovens industry worldwide. Choosing collaboration over conflict, and commitment to open markets and productive engagement, will pave the way for a future where trade acts as a catalyst for shared prosperity and innovation, to the advantage of industries and consumers alike.

March, 5 marks the official launch of the T2T Alliance - Powering Policy for a Textile-to-Textile Future, spearheaded by recyclers Circ, Circulose, RE&UP, Syre to advocate for their sector within the EU policy framework and beyond. With the textile industry at a critical juncture, the T2T Alliance unites key stakeholders to secure their place at the heart of Europe’s circular economy policies. By bringing recyclers’ expertise to the forefront, the T2T Alliance is driving policy change that supports a thriving, resilient and truly sustainable textile industry.

Set to become the defining textile policy of 2025, the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) will introduce market-entry ecodesign requirements that mandate a significant increase in recycled textile fibers by 2028. Alongside ongoing work in the EcoDesign Forum, the Commission’s technical body is preparing ecodesign requirements and invited stakeholder feedback on its latest report. The T2T Alliance seized the opportunity to provide expert input on the development of ecodesign requirements for textile apparel through:

• Promoting T2T recycled content and recyclability as core requirements in the ESPR ecodesign requirements for textiles
• Supporting a closed-loop textile recycling approach which includes post-industrial, pre-consumer waste and post-consumer waste
• Clarifying misconceptions about the textile recycling industry in the report (for example, by debunking the assumption that allowing post-industrial waste to fulfil recycled content targets would incentivise its overproduction)
• Advocating for a wide range of verification methods for tracing recycled material.

The T2T recycling industry requires urgent strategic intervention to ensure its long-term viability. Closing the loop in the textile industry, textile-to-textile recycling is an innovative process that involves converting used or waste textiles into new textile products. While the developments on the ESPR represent a momentous milestone, the direction that policy discussions are currently taking will have detrimental effects on the growth of T2T recyclers.

Even though the perspective of T2T recyclers is essential for effective policymaking, it seemed to be underrepresented in policy discussions so far. The T2T Alliance is a force to provide policymakers with an understanding of the real-world impact of sustainability policies, holds them accountable and ensures textile circularity is a non-negotiable in EU policy. The group is facilitated by 2B Policy, a consultancy that supports businesses to navigate a regulated future by offering strategic guidance, compliance support and facilitating industry collaboration and association building. The T2T Alliance will act as a hub for advocacy, collaboration and joint action and ensure T2T recyclers’ interests are not just heard but embedded in future textile policies, in the EU and beyond.

The Alliance is committed to:

• Advocating for textile-to-textile recyclers’ perspective in EU legislation and policies.
• Supporting the development of new legal requirements mandating textile-to-textile recycled content and recyclability in new textile products in the context of the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR).
• Removing barriers that hinder the growth and scalability of the T2T industry.

The formation of the T2T Alliance marks a significant milestone in the development toward a truly circular textile economy. By uniting key stakeholders, the Alliance will advocate for textile-to-textile recyclers to receive the necessary recognition in the policy ecosystem and support policymakers in understanding the full impact on T2T recyclers and incorporating these insights into policies.

Global Standard, the nonprofit that owns and operates the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) views the recently published European Commission Omnibus package as a step backwards in the pursuit of a more sustainable EU as the cornerstone of the Green Deal:

“Removing around 80% of companies from the scope of the Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD), postponing its reporting requirements and introducing substantial changes to the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD) goes far beyond simplification. By weakening social and environmental norms applying to companies, the Omnibus package is penalizing those economic actors, such as the more than 15,000 GOTS-certified facilities, that are convinced and have proven that long-term sustainability and competitiveness go hand in hand. The proposed amendments also discourage investors – when investments in sustainable technologies are needed more than ever.

In addition, at a time when consumers are most interested in the social as well as the environmental impact of supply chains, watering down the CSDDD’s requirements is disheartening. This move may lead to further environmental damage, corporate human rights violations and business as usual, further reinforcing power imbalances.
GOTS remains firmly committed to advancing sustainability in the textile sector by relying on internationally recognised frameworks, including the United Nations Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights and the OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains in the Garment and Footwear Sector. These frameworks provide a globally recognised foundation for responsible business conduct, supporting the idea that sustainability is not compromised in pursuit of economic or administrative simplifications.”

One year after the launch of the Antwerp Declaration, 400 business leaders gathered to discuss the Clean Industrial Deal with European Commission President Ursula von der Leyen. Earlier in the day, President von der Leyen presented the initiative to the public, outlining its vision for strengthening Europe’s industrial base. The Antwerp meeting was a crucial moment for industry leaders to assess its impact and demand concrete measures for urgent implementation.

Representing 200,000 textile companies and 1.3 million workers across Europe, EURATEX welcomes the Clean Industrial Deal as a crucial framework to support industrial competitiveness. However, today’s discussions underscored the reality that without swift and targeted action, the European textile sector will remain at serious risk. High energy prices, regulatory complexity, and unfair competition from imports that bypass EU standards are making it increasingly difficult for manufacturers to stay afloat.

EURATEX President Mario Jorge Machado highlighted the industry's struggles with high energy costs and unfair competition. "European textile companies are facing a substantial crisis, combined with an increasingly complex regulatory landscape. We need a level playing field, particularly concerning online platforms that circumvent established quality and sustainability standards."

Addressing Commissioner Hoekstra, in charge of Climate, Machado declared: “We are ready to take responsibility, but if we want to save the planet, we cannot do it alone. Europe represents less than 10% of global CO₂ emissions in textiles—yet we are imposing strict sustainability laws on ourselves, while unsustainable imports take over the market. If we continue like this, we are simply outsourcing pollution to other regions while shutting down European factories.”

EURATEX has outlined four key priorities within the Clean Industrial Deal that must be addressed to safeguard the textile sector:

• Affordable Energy Action Plan: Securing stable and competitively priced energy is essential to retain textile production in Europe and sustain employment.
• Public Procurement Reform: Prioritising EU-made, sustainable textiles in public tenders will support responsible production and foster demand for innovative, eco-friendly products.
• Competitiveness Fund: SMEs, which form the backbone of the textile industry, require targeted financial support to invest in new technologies, upskill their workforce, and enhance competitiveness.
• Clean Trade and Investment Partnerships: To ensure fair global competition, trade agreements must uphold environmental and social standards across supply chains.

President Machado emphasises the need to stimulate demand for sustainable textile products. "We must shift the focus from solely pressuring manufacturers to adopt sustainable practices to actively incentivizing consumers and public procurers to choose sustainable options. If the cost of sustainability is not covered by the customer, it will be carried by the planet!'"

EURATEX therefore urges the European Commission and EU member states to move forward without delay in implementing a comprehensive support package for the textile industry. “Entrepreneurs are making the difficult decision to shut down production," warns Machado. "We need concrete action now to prevent further closures and ensure that the European textile industry not only survives but thrives in the years to come.”

The Candidate List of substances of very high concern (SVHC) now contains 247 entries for chemicals that can harm people or the environment. Companies are responsible for managing the risks of these chemicals and giving customers and consumers information on their safe use.

Two newly added substances (octamethyltrisiloxane and perfluamine) are very persistent and very bioaccumulative. They are used in the manufacture of washing and cleaning products and in the manufacture of electrical, electronic and optical equipment.

Two substances have persistent, bioaccumulative and toxic properties. O,O,O-triphenyl phosphorothioate is used in lubricants and greases. The reaction mass of: triphenylthiophosphate and tertiary butylated phenyl derivatives is not registered under REACH. It was, however, identified as an SVHC to prevent regrettable substitution.

6-[(C10-C13)-alkyl-(branched, unsaturated)-2,5-dioxopyrrolidin-1-yl]hexanoic acid is toxic for reproduction and used in lubricants, greases and metal working fluids.

Tris(4-nonylphenyl, branched and linear) phosphite has endocrine disrupting properties affecting the environment and is used in polymers, adhesives, sealants and coatings. The entry for this substance is updated to reflect that it is an endocrine disrupter to the environment both due to its intrinsic properties and when it contains ≥ 0.1% w/w of 4-nonylphenol, branched and linear (4-NP).

ECHA’s Member State Committee (MSC) has confirmed the addition of these substances to the Candidate List. The list now contains 247 entries – some of these entries cover groups of chemicals so the overall number of impacted chemicals is higher.

These substances may be placed on the Authorisation List in the future. If a substance is on this list, companies cannot use it unless they apply for authorisation and the European Commission authorises its continued use.
 
Consequences of inclusion on the Candidate List
Under REACH, companies have legal obligations when their substance is included – either on its own, in mixtures or in articles – in the Candidate List.
 
If an article contains a Candidate List substance above a concentration of 0.1 % (weight by weight), suppliers must give their customers and consumers information on how to use it safely. Consumers have the right to ask suppliers if the products they buy contain substances of very high concern.
 
Importers and producers of articles must notify ECHA if their article contains a Candidate List substance within six months from the date it has been included in the list (21 January 2025).
 
EU and EEA suppliers of substances on the Candidate List, supplied either on their own or in mixtures, must update the safety data sheet they provide to their customers.
 
Under the Waste Framework Directive, companies also have to notify ECHA if the articles they produce contain substances of very high concern in a concentration above 0.1 % (weight by weight). This notification is published in ECHA’s database of substances of concern in products (SCIP).
 
Under the EU Ecolabel Regulation, products containing SVHCs cannot have the ecolabel award.

Kornit Digital LTD., engaged in sustainable, on-demand digital fashion and textile production technologies, announced the appointment of Peter Alderath as General Manager for the DACH (Germany, Austria, Switzerland) and Benelux regions. His extensive industry expertise and leadership acumen will be instrumental in driving Kornit’s growth and strengthening its market presence in these key European regions.

Peter Alderath brings over 25 years of experience in the digital print and technology industries, with a focus on delivering customer-centric solutions and fostering strategic partnerships. As General Manager for DACH and Benelux, he will spearhead Kornit’s efforts to support its customers, expand its market share, and promote the adoption of Kornit’s innovative, sustainable solutions across the region.

With the leadership of the new General Manager, Kornit Digital aims to accelerate the adoption of its technologies, enabling creators, brands, and manufacturers to embrace sustainable, agile production processes in these regions and beyond.

The European Chemicals Agency’s (ECHA) investigation found that use of non-polymeric aromatic brominated flame-retardant additives pollutes the environment due to their persistence, bioaccumulation and toxicity. These substances are released to the environment throughout the product lifecycle, with waste stage being of particular concern.

ECHA has investigated, as requested by the European Commission, the uses and releases of aromatic brominated flame retardants (ABFRs), and their (potential) hazardous properties. It has also considered possible alternatives and aspects related to recycling and waste management.

The investigation focused on 60 ABFRs that are potentially on the EU market. The key findings are:

• Environmental impact
  Of all ABFRs, non-polymeric additives pose the highest environmental risks due to their tendency to leach from the material. ECHA identified five substances with particular concern, confirmed to be either persistent, bioaccumulative and toxic (PBT) or very persistent and very bioaccumulative (vPvB). In addition, 37 ABFRs are likely to be PBT. Of these, 17 are non-polymeric additives;
• Uses and releases
  ABFRs are used in many applications. The sectors contributing the most to the overall releases are electronics, construction and textiles. Releases from the waste stage are key contributors, particularly when materials are shredded or end up as landfill;
• Alternatives
  Alternatives to ABFRs are available for many uses. These include organophosphate flame retardants and non-combustible materials. However, some organophosphate flame retardants may have similar hazard properties as ABFRs and are prone to leaching. Polymeric ABFR additives are viable alternatives to non-polymeric ABFR additives in many uses;
• Waste management
  Inefficient recycling and waste management systems may increase environmental releases of ABFRs. To address the challenges, ECHA emphasises the need to eliminate problematic plastic additives early in the value chain; and
• Group approach
  Some non-polymeric additive ABFRs are not registered under REACH. Yet, they have been detected in the environment at high concentrations. This suggests potential issues with REACH registration compliance or uncertainty about the plastic composition in imported articles. Therefore, any regulatory action on ABFRs should consider a group approach.

This investigation will support the European Commission in deciding whether to request ECHA to prepare a restriction proposal and, if so, what its scope should be. A potential restriction on flame retardants is already included in the Commission’s planning document, the Restrictions Roadmap.