From the Sector

The transition towards safer and more sustainable chemicals is progressing in some areas, while in others, it is just beginning. This is the finding of a first, joint Europe-wide assessment of the drivers and impact of chemical pollution by the European Environment Agency (EEA) and the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA). The benchmarking found that more work is still needed to reduce the impact of harmful substances on human health and the environment.

The number of industrial chemicals scrutinised under the EU’s chemicals legislation to determine their safety has increased substantially. Authorities now have much better knowledge about the hazardous properties of chemicals that are used across the EU, resulting in many actions to minimise and control the risks of several groups of substances.

According to the joint EEA-ECHA synthesis report on the EU indicator framework for chemicals, the overall use of the most harmful chemicals (in particular those that are carcinogenic, mutagenic and reprotoxic) is still growing but more slowly than the overall chemicals market growth. Pressure is increasing to avoid the use of so-called substances of concern and to implement the principles of the safe and sustainable by design framework.

There is a need to more effectively ensure that consumer products do not contain the most harmful substances, for example chemicals that are endocrine disrupting, that negatively affect the hormone system, or substances that are persistent, bioaccumulative and toxic, which present a risk for years to come even after their use has ceased.

More data and information are needed to better understand human and environmental exposure to those most harmful chemicals and their impacts. Still, the indicators show clearly that the shift to safe and sustainable chemicals must continue and should even be accelerated.

The report is based on a set of 25 key indicators, which monitor the drivers and impacts of chemical pollution in Europe.

Key findings

• Transition towards safer and more sustainable chemicals is progressing in some areas while in others it is just getting started.
• Action by authorities and industry has supported minimising and controlling the risks from several groups of hazardous chemicals. Efforts are ongoing to increase knowledge on chemical hazards and support risk management action where needed.
• Available data suggest that there is little evidence of progress towards eliminating substances of concern from waste and secondary materials. This is a barrier to the transition towards a more circular economy.
• Emissions of certain chemicals to water and air have fallen following specific EU regulations (e.g., on industrial emissions) and international actions, but further measures are needed to reach concentration levels that are not harmful for human health and the environment.
• Emissions from industry still lead to major costs in terms of damages to human and ecosystem health.
• Human biomonitoring offers the opportunity to understand human exposure to chemicals from multiple sources and thus health risks associated with chemical pollution. As such, biomonitoring forms a key tool to measure the effectiveness of chemicals legislation in protecting human health and the environment.

National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) Chairman Norman Chapman delivered the trade association’s State of the U.S. Textile Industry overview at NCTO’s 20th Annual Meeting on April 11.

Mr. Chapman’s speech highlighted the severe economic challenges confronting the U.S. textile industry that have been exacerbated by predatory trade behavior and customs fraud that is harming this vital and strategic domestic supply chain. He also highlighted NCTO’s effective advocacy efforts that resulted in a long list of accomplishments to counter some of the damaging illegal trade practices and bolster the industry.

“While the domestic textile industry is a key contributor to the U.S. economy and a critical part of the military and public health industrial base, our sector is facing a crisis of historic proportions as the result of rapidly deteriorating market conditions coupled with unchecked foreign predatory trade practices and diminished customs enforcement activities, Chapman stated in the speech. “At the end of the day, some key fundamentals for the U.S. textile industry remained sound, while others weakened. While we expect to see ongoing challenges this year, which will test our resolve, we know collectively as an industry this will not weaken our resilience or our innovative spirit.”

With the aim to help the denim industry reduce the environmental impact of its wastewater and move towards circularity, Archroma, G-Star RAW and Advance Denim have renewed their joint commitment to the production of aniline-free denim apparel based on Archroma’s DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30.

Their joint aim is to produce high-quality denim in authentic blue shades without the aniline impurity carried through from the synthesis of standard synthetic indigo. In traditional denim production, this aniline remains bound with the indigo pigment on the fabric; the remaining aniline is discharged during the dyeing and washing process. This can be a problem because aniline is toxic to aquatic life and two-thirds of aniline waste currently ends up in wastewater discharge where it could potentially pollute waterways and the ocean.

Archroma developed DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 to answer this key challenge. A 30% pre-reduced indigo solution, DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 makes it possible to produce indigo-dyed denim without aniline impurities throughout the process.

Easy to use with automated dosing, DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 reduces the water needed for preparation, washing and wastewater treatment compared to indigo grains. It also reduces hazardous chemical consumption while allowing high reproducibility and creating the authentic and iconic deep indigo shades traditionally associated with denim.

G-Star RAW is working towards making 20% of its entire collection from Cradle to Cradle Certified® fabrics by 2025. Its partnership with Archroma and Advance Denim contributes to this goal, since the aniline-free DENISOL® holds a Gold Level Material Health Certificate from the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute. DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 is also compliant with other eco-standards and the requirements of leading retailers and brands.

Advance Denim, G-Star RAW and Archroma have previously collaborated to launch collections based on Archroma’s EarthColors® technology, which upcycles plant waste from the herbal industry to create sustainable colorways.

From 6 – 8 March 2024, over 330 exhibitors from seven countries and regions will convene at of Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Spring Edition to highlight a variety of home textile products. Buyers will be able to source the latest bedding, duvets, pillows, towels, carpets, rugs and many more.

Highlighted exhibitors

• Bedding – GSI Creos Corporation, Jjiangyin Hongliu Bedsheet Co Ltd, Zhejiang Eider Warmth New Material Co Ltd
• Down – Anhui Million Feather Co Ltd, Hangzhou Gaga Home Textiles Co Ltd, Shanghai Donglong Home Textile Products Co Ltd
• Functional pillow & mattress – Changshu Dafa Warp Knitting Co Ltd, Chuzhou Bray Smart Home Appliances Co Ltd, Zhangjiagang Coolest Life Technology
• Floor – Amore Textile (Suzhou) Co Ltd, Jingyi Fur Products Co Ltd, Shaoxing Jiaohui Home Textile Co Ltd
• Quilt fillings – Pujiang Boyue Home Textile Co Ltd, Pujiang Huayu Hometextile Co Ltd
• Textile design – Tela’s Design Lda
• Towelling – Nantong Dadong Co Ltd, Sunvim Group Co Ltd
• Loungewear & bath – Suzhou Huazhong Knitting Co Ltd, Zhejiang Demu Textile Technology Co Ltd
• Upholstery fabrics – Changshu Xinghan Hometextiles Co Ltd, Jiangsu First Home Textile Co Ltd, Shaoxing Chengchong Imp & Exp Co Ltd
• Home textile technologies – Nantong Mingxing Science & Technology Development Co Ltd, Sichuan Chnki Sewing Machine Co Ltd

Fringe programme
Complementing the exhibitor lineup, Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles will feature events to keep attendees up-to-date with emerging developments, trends, and important intuition.
For example, one of the most essential yet often overlooked foundations for sustaining wellness is quality sleep. Throughout day one and two at the Bedding Seminar Area, sleep technology will again be a key topic of discussion, guaranteeing comprehensive insights on sleep quality while tapping into associated business prospects.
Traditional Chinese medicine will also take the spotlight, with talks linking various health issues to remedies. Crossover subjects include topical therapy’s role in a better night’s sleep as well as innovations blending medicinal properties with textile design.
An increasing number of people are choosing to use natural materials and green textiles for their bedrooms and throughout their homes. For this reason, the seminars falling under the "Textiles & Technology" theme will shed light on sustainability and what’s next in the industry.

CARBIOS and De Smet Engineers & Contractors (DSEC), a provider of Engineering, Procurement and Construction services in the biotech’s and agro-processing industries, announce their collaboration to spearhead the construction of the world's first PET biorecycling plant. Under the agreement, De Smet has been entrusted with the project management and detailed engineering, including procurement assistance and CARBIOS partners’ management, to ensure the execution of the plant's construction in Longlaville, France, due for commissioning in 2025.  CARBIOS’ first commercial facility will play a key role in the fight against plastic pollution by offering an industrial-scale solution for the enzymatic depolymerization of PET waste to accelerate a circular economy for plastic and textiles.

With over 70 members of De Smet's expert team dedicated to the project and working alongside CARBIOS teams, the collaboration aims to guarantee the project timeline and budget while upholding quality, safety, health, and environmental standards. Construction is currently underway and on schedule.

Happy New Year 2024! Here's to a year full of innovation and success in the textile and apparel industry.

The Textination team sincerely wishes you a great start: may 2024 be full of health, joy and energy for you.

There are undoubtedly 365 days of exciting encounters, developments, innovations and new trends ahead in our shared world of the textile and apparel industry. We would like to join you on this journey and document the many facets of our industry.

We are convinced that the new year will be just as fascinating and inspiring for our users as the best textile products and designs that our industry has to offer. We look forward to accompanying you through the coming 12 months with the latest news, in-depth analyses and exclusive insights.

Thank you for your continued support and interest in Textination.

Together we will tell textile tomorrow!

Ines Chucholowius
- Managing Director -

Solvay announced the future Board of Directors of SYENSQO, effective upon completion of the planned separation of Solvay into two companies – SOLVAY and SYENSQO – which is on track to be completed in December 2023.

SYENSQO’s Board will be composed of 10 members, including 6 independent members, 3 members representing the reference shareholder, Solvac, and the company CEO. They have deep expertise in specialty industries, international business operations, risk management, corporate governance, finance and clean technology.

The following individuals will serve on the SYENSQO Board of Directors:
Rosemary Thorne will serve as independent Director and Chair of the SYENSQO Board, as well as Chair of the Board’s Finance Committee. She is currently an Independent Director on the Solvay Board of Directors, appointed in 2014, and Chair of the Board’s Audit Committee. She is also an Independent Director on the Board of Merrill Lynch International (UK), a wholly-owned subsidiary of Bank of America, serving as Chair of the Audit Committee. Ms. Thorne has decades of financial leadership experience across a wide range of industries. She previously served as Chief Financial Officer at J. Sainsbury, the UK’s largest supermarket chain at the time; Bradford & Bingley; and Ladbrokes. Ms. Thorne previously sat as an Independent Director on the Boards of Royal Mail Group, Cadbury Schweppes, Santander UK, First Global Trust Bank and Smurfit Kappa Group.

Dr. Ilham Kadri will serve as Chief Executive Officer and member of the Board of Directors of SYENSQO. She is currently CEO and President of the Executive Committee at Solvay. Ms. Kadri has successfully led the turnaround of Solvay, delivering double-digit EBITDA growth and 18 consecutive quarters of positive free cash flow, deleveraging the balance sheet and promoting superior people engagement. She is an independent Board member at A.O. Smith and L’Oréal. She is active in non-profit organizations, as Chair of the World Business Council for Sustainable Development (WBCSD), member of the steering committee of the European Round Table of Industrialists (ERT) as well as a permanent member of the World Economic Forum’s International Business Council (WEF). Ms. Kadri has extensive leadership experience across a variety of industries in four continents and with leading industrial multinationals, including Shell, UCB, Huntsman, Dow, Sealed Air. Prior to Solvay, she was CEO and President of Diversey in the USA, led the company’s return to profitability and resulting spin off and divestiture to Bain Capital. She founded two non-Profit foundations: the Solvay Solidarity Fund in Belgium in 2020 which supported more than 7000 families affected by Covid-19 and natural disasters; and founded the ISSA Hygieia Network in 2015 in the USA, to help women in the cleaning industry. She received two Doctor Honoris Clausa from EWHA University in Korea and Université de Namur in Belgium.

Julian Waldron will serve as independent Director and Chair of the Audit Committee. He currently serves as Deputy Executive Chairman of privately-held Albea Group, a global beauty and personal care packaging company which operates 35 facilities in Europe, Asia and the Americas. Mr. Waldron has held senior leadership roles at several leading listed companies in the industrial, technology and services sectors and brings a wealth of expertise in finance and business operations. Prior to joining Albea in 2022, he was Chief Financial Officer of Suez for three years after serving as Chief Financial Officer and subsequently Chief Operating Officer of Technip. He started his career at UBS Warburg where he spent 14 years. Mr. Waldron also served as an independent Board member and Chairman of finance, risk and investments at Carbon Clean, a privately-owned carbon capture company dedicated to achieving net zero.

Heike Van de Kerkhof will serve as independent Director and Chair of the Nomination Committee. She currently sits on the Board of OCI N.V.. Ms. Van de Kerkhof brings more than 30 years of experience in the chemicals, oil & gas and materials industries, having served in numerous leadership roles around the globe. From 2020 to 2023, she was Chief Executive Officer of Archroma Management, a global specialty chemicals company. During her tenure, she successfully completed the transformational acquisition of Huntsman’s Textile Effects business. Prior to her role at Archroma, Ms. Van de Kerkhof served as Vice President of Lubricants, Western Hemisphere at BP, and held positions at Castrol, The Chemours Company, and Neste Corporation. She also held many leading roles within DuPont over 18 years.

Matti Lievonen will serve as independent Director and Chair of the Compensation Committee. He is currently an independent director on the Solvay Board, appointed in 2017. Mr. Lievonen is a proven executive in the energy, forestry, power and automation industries with an extensive track record of leading businesses through climate transition. For over ten years until 2018, he served as Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of Neste Corporation, a global leader in next-generation renewable fuels and chemicals. During his time at Neste, Mr. Lievonen successfully promoted the development of clean fuels as well as Finland’s bioeconomy strategy in advancing renewable transportation fuels. He has also been involved with organizations such as Fortum Board, SSAB, Nynäs AB, Ilmarinen, and the HE Finnish Fair Foundation. Until 2021, Mr. Lievonen was also Chairman of the Board of Directors at Fortum. He has been recognized for his admirable leadership and expertise, and in 2016 was awarded an Honorary Doctorate of Technology by the Aalto University Schools of Technology.

Dr. Françoise de Viron will serve as non-independent Director, Chair of the ESG Committee and Vice-Chair of the Board. She is currently a director of the Solvay Board, appointed in 2013. Ms. de Viron is a regarded academic leader and has extensive experience in innovation, R&D and qualitative research. She is a Professor Emeritus at the Faculty of Psychology and Education Sciences and Louvain School of Management at UCLouvain in Belgium where she has been an Academic Member of various groups at UCLouvain. Ms. de Viron previously served as the president of AISBL EUCEN – the European Universities Continuing Education Network. Prior to her university position, from 1985 to 2000, she was in charge of developing Artificial Intelligence applications at Tractebel S.A. (now Tractebel-Engie).

Roeland Baan will serve as independent Director. He currently serves as President and Chief Executive Officer of Topsoe, a privately-held leading provider of clean energy and petrochemical technologies. He is also Chairman of the Supervisory Board of SBM Offshore NV. Roeland Baan has extensive experience in supply chain management, M&A, business development and operations management. Prior to joining Topsoe in 2020, he was President and CEO of Outokumpu and has held several executive roles at global organizations such as Aleris International, ArcelorMittal and SHV NV. He spent over 16 years in various roles across the globe at Shell, living in South America, in Africa and in the United Kingdom.

Edouard Janssen will serve as non-independent Director. He is currently a Director on the Solvay Board, appointed in 2021. Earlier this year, he was appointed Chief Financial Officer of D’Ieteren Group, a European leader in automotive distribution services. Mr. Janssen is also a Board member of privately-held Financière de Tubize and Union Financière Boël, as well as Co-Founder and Chair of Trusted Family. Mr. Janssen is active in academics, as Vice-Chair of the International Advisory Board of the Solvay Brussels School of Economics and Management and on the advisory board of the INSEAD HGIBS. He brings expertise in finance, strategy, entrepreneurship, business management, planning and marketing. He has served as Solvay’s Vice President in strategy and M&A between 2019 and 2021, and prior to that, he was the US-based General Manager for North- and Latin America at Solvay’s Aroma Performance Global Business Unit.
 
Dr. Mary Meaney will serve as non-independent Director. She is currently a member of the Board of Directors and of the Audit Committee of Groupe Bruxelles Lambert SA. She also sits on the Board of Directors and the Remuneration Committee of Beamery, the privately-held talent management company. She is a member of the Board of Directors and of the Finance Committee of Imperial College, London.Dr. Meaney will bring expertise in Strategy, M&A, and change management, which she acquired over a 24-year career at McKinsey. She was a Senior Partner, served on the McKinsey Shareholders Council and led McKinsey’s global Organization practice.

Nadine Leslie will serve as independent Director and is based in the United States of America. She is currently a member of the Board of Directors of Provident Financial Services , as well as a Non-Executive Director of Seven Seas Water Corporation, a water and wastewater treatment multinational company. She also sits on the Board of Trustees of Hackensack Meridian Health Network and is active as strategic consultant for civil engineering firm T&M Associates. Over a 22-year career at Suez, Ms. Leslie held several leadership positions, the last one being Chief Executive Officer of Suez North America, until 2022. Previously she served as Executive Vice President Health & Safety.

The advisory board of A+A in Düsseldorf, an international trade fair for safety, security and health at work, will soon be under new leadership. Stefan Brück, CEO and Chairman of the Board at UVEX SAFETY GROUP GmbH & Co. KG, Fürth, who has been a member of the A+A advisory board for 7 years, will be the new Chairman. In this position he succeeds Klaus Bornack, Managing Director at Bornack GmbH & Co. KG, who successfully headed the advisory board for 12 years. The handover of office will take place during A+A 2023.

Stefan Brück has developed the Uvex Safety Group into one of the innovation leaders in the international PPE industry. He will assume his future task with over 30 years of industry experience under his belt and is already looking forward to the new challenge.

“My short and medium-term aim is to move such themes as sustainability but also new technologies and innovations even more into focus in occupational safety. This also includes digital products and solutions such as AI, Virtual Reality or Augmented Reality applications,” explains Stefan Brück and goes on to say: “I look forward to contributing to develop A+A further as the world-leading trade fair and to increasing the social, economic and ecological relevance of PPE on a global scale all year round.”

From 16 – 18 August 2023, 1,022 exhibitors from 13 countries and regions will occupy four halls and 100,000 sqm gross at the National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai). This Autumn Edition of Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles will return to its regular format, as a comprehensive platform held separately from Messe Frankfurt’s other autumn textile fairs. Complementing the strong lineup of exhibitors over all three days, a varied selection of fringe events will communicate key insights, offer industry specific inspiration, and facilitate cross-sector exchanges for fairgoers.

Buyers from 66 countries and regions have already pre-registered for the show, while a range of international brands are preparing to showcase their latest innovations. Multiple exhibitors will gather according to origin, with three country and region pavilions a must-see for fairgoers seeking exotic home textiles:

• Belgium Pavilion: products on show include bedding fabrics and sets, curtains and curtain fabrics, sofa covers, upholstery, and much more. With the pavilion set to feature a number of Belgian brands, its highlighted exhibitors are Libeco and Love Home Fabrics.
• Taiwan (China) Pavilion: multiple Taiwanese exhibitors, including JWL Fabrics Co Ltd, Maxland Home Textile Industrial Co Ltd, and Vanttex International Co Ltd, will demonstrate specific examples of the varied applications of their home textiles.
• Türkiye Pavilion: organised by Uludag Textile Exporters’ Association (UTIB), the pavilion will showcase a range of curtains, upholstery fabrics, and other home textiles, from suppliers such as Aleran Tekstil Inşaat Gida Sanayi Ve Ticaret Ltd Şti, Küçükçalik Tekstil San Ve Tic A Ş and Weavers Tekstil San Ve Tic A Ş.

Beyond the pavilions, buyers can easily locate their desired home and contract textiles via conveniently placed product zones, covering categories such as curtain and curtain fabrics; sun protection and window shades; upholstery and sofa fabrics; furniture leather; bedding and editors; loungewear and bath; and rugs. Wide-ranging suppliers from China and beyond will showcase their various products, featuring international exhibitors such as Elastron – Leather & Fabrics, Morgan and PT Sinar Continental; and well-known domestic manufacturers including Hangzhou Aico Home Textile Co Ltd, Huatex International (Hangzhou) Co Ltd and Zhe Jiang Maya Fabric Co Ltd.

Fringe programme: keeping fairgoers up-to-date with range of industry developments
Business exchange at Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles will once again be supplemented by multiple concurrent events, for home textile players to learn more about the latest industry innovations, as well as upcoming design trends. These include:

• International Intertextile Trend Forum 2023–2024: held in the afternoon of day one, the event will be hosted by a prominent member of the ‘2023 – 2024 Intertextile International Lifestyle Trend’ trend committee, Mr Shen Lei, joined on the panel by multiple designers. They will discuss various impacts on designs, such as sustainability’s effect, the influence of emerging technologies, and international integration and localised expression.
• IKASAS Japanese Home Design Gallery and themed seminar: the leading Japanese furniture brand IKASAS will utilise a display area to illustrate its unique design philosophy, by showcasing innovative furniture products that predominantly align with contemporary trends. The company’s founder, Mr Akiyuki Sasaki, will delve deeper into his design views in a seminar held on the morning of day one.
• The New Power of Healthy Home Decoration Environment: a first-time collaboration with CRECC Full Decoration Council, the cross-sector conference in Hall 5.1 on day two will welcome keynote speakers from the real estate industry, to discuss topical insights at the intersection of realty and home textiles. The audience will come away with a widened scope of the different applications and demands of home textiles, and an ability to more accurately identify business opportunities within the property market.

ECHA’s Enforcement Forum agreed to launch an EU-wide project to check that products sold online comply with REACH restrictions and the requirements of the Classification, Labelling and Packaging (CLP) Regulation. Its subgroup on Biocidal Products Regulation, BPRS, agreed to launch a project on labelling of biocidal products.

The Enforcement Forum including its BPR subgroup (BPRS) is a network of enforcement authorities from the EU and EEA. They are responsible for coordinating the enforcement of the REACH, CLP, PIC, POPs and the Biocidal Product Regulations with the aim of protecting our health and the environment while ensuring a level playing field for companies across the EU market.

Inspections in this REACH-EN-FORCE (REF)-13 project will take place in 2025. The objective is to check that products, such as toys, common household goods or chemicals, sold online comply with REACH restrictions. Inspectors will also check that mixtures are classified, labelled and packaged in line with CLP and that online offers include the required information about the hazards of the mixture. Inspectors may also check compliance with restrictions under the Persistent Organic Pollutants (POPs) Regulation and the Restriction of Hazardous Substances (RoHS) Directive.

The online sale of chemicals is an area of high non-compliance. In a previous Forum project (REF-8), inspectors often found that mixtures and articles sold online contained restricted hazardous substances, including those causing cancer. The project found that 78 % of controlled mixtures or articles did not fulfil the conditions of REACH restrictions.

In the upcoming project, inspectors can rely on stricter rules governing online sales, such as the Digital Services Act and General Product Safety Regulation. These new laws are expected to make enforcement stronger.

The Forum’s subgroup on Biocidal Products Regulation (BPRS), agreed that the next major enforcement project on biocides (BEF-3) will focus on controlling the correctness of product labels for biocidal products. Inspectors will check that the information on the labelling of biocides corresponds to that what has been authorised and included in the Summary of Product Characteristics. Inspectors may also check the presence and quality of information in the Safety Data Sheets, where it is required for biocidal products.

Both REF-13 and BEF-3 projects will be prepared in 2024, inspections are planned for 2025 and reports are expected to be published in 2026.

During the meeting, the Forum members elected a new chair and vice chair. Henrik Hedlund (SE) will start as the Forum chair and Katja vom Hofe (DE) and Maria Orphanou (CY) will be the vice chairs as of 21 June 2023. Its biocides subgroup elected Helmut de Vos (BE) as chair and Jenny Karlsson (SE) and Eugen Anwander (AT) as vice chairs.