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Spring 2025 collections of Citizens of Humanity and AGOLDE with Pili biobased indigo Photo (c) Citizens of Humanity Group
Spring 2025 collections of Citizens of Humanity and AGOLDE with Pili biobased indigo
06.01.2025

Pili partners with Citizens of Humanity and Orta

Pili, a French pioneer in biobased dyes and pigments, partners with Orta, the Turkish denim mill and Citizens of Humanity, a California-based high-end denim brand known for its commitment to quality and sustainability.

They are beginning a transformative shift in the denim industry with the commercial launch of the first products dyed with Pili’s biobased indigo. The first products will debut in January in the Spring 2025 collections of Citizens of Humanity and AGOLDE.

A New Ecological Standard for the Denim Industry
In 2024, Pili achieved a major milestone by producing its first tons of biobased indigo, enabling the creation of sustainable denim articles, a turning point in the company's efforts to decarbonize the textile industry especially denim.

Pili, a French pioneer in biobased dyes and pigments, partners with Orta, the Turkish denim mill and Citizens of Humanity, a California-based high-end denim brand known for its commitment to quality and sustainability.

They are beginning a transformative shift in the denim industry with the commercial launch of the first products dyed with Pili’s biobased indigo. The first products will debut in January in the Spring 2025 collections of Citizens of Humanity and AGOLDE.

A New Ecological Standard for the Denim Industry
In 2024, Pili achieved a major milestone by producing its first tons of biobased indigo, enabling the creation of sustainable denim articles, a turning point in the company's efforts to decarbonize the textile industry especially denim.

Pili has developed unique processes combining fermentation and organic chemistry to offer a high-performance, eco-friendly alternative to petrochemical dyes. Their ecological alternative significantly reduces the use of toxic chemicals and fossil resources, while aiming to cut CO2 emissions up to 50%. It meets the same performance as petrochemical indigo while seamlessly integrating into existing dyeing processes without requiring additional investment in commercial dyeing equipment.

Pili’s colors development is based on standardized Life Cycle Assessments (LCAs), ensuring a rigorous process to measure and minimize their environmental impact.

A Partnership Driving Sustainable Transformation in the Industry
Fiber and dye are the two main components of denim products and also the ones with the greatest impact on their production. The partnership between Citizens of Humanity, Pili, and Orta establishes one of the highest ecological standards in the market with the use of regenerative cotton and biobased indigo.

Pili biobased indigo will make its debut in Citizens of Humanity and AGOLDE’s Spring 2025 collections. This long-term partnership between Citizens of Humanity, Orta, and Pili will continue to expand in future collections. The launch will be exclusive on NET-A-PORTER on January 6, 2025, before being extended to agolde.com, citizensofhumanity.com, and other global retailers.

A Key Step Towards the Decarbonization of the Color Industry
Building on this first success, Pili is accelerating the development of coloring solutions for various industrial applications, particularly in the inks, paints, and polymers sectors. The aim is to decarbonize everyday products using high-performance biobased pigments, with the first applicative tests set to begin this year. Pili continues its mission to decarbonize the color industry, paving the way for a sustainable revolution.

Bohrgerät Schiefergas Bohrhaken Photo: Pixabay
26.04.2022

Natural gas embargo against Russian Federation would mean the end for man-made fibre producers

With its current position paper, the Industrievereinigung Chemiefaser e.V. takes a stand on the intense discussions about an embargo against Russian natural gas supplies. The association believes that Germany's economic and global political future can only be secured with a strong industrial base and therefore, weighing up all positions and influencing factors and assessing the consequences for labour and the market economy, cannot support a short-term natural gas embargo on Russia.

An interruption of the continuous supply of natural gas would result in immense losses for the chemical fibre companies, which could even lead to the destruction of the industry in Germany. The losses are made up of technical damage caused by an uncoordinated shutdown of plants on the one hand and market-related consequential damage caused by lost production and a lack of product sales on the other.

With its current position paper, the Industrievereinigung Chemiefaser e.V. takes a stand on the intense discussions about an embargo against Russian natural gas supplies. The association believes that Germany's economic and global political future can only be secured with a strong industrial base and therefore, weighing up all positions and influencing factors and assessing the consequences for labour and the market economy, cannot support a short-term natural gas embargo on Russia.

An interruption of the continuous supply of natural gas would result in immense losses for the chemical fibre companies, which could even lead to the destruction of the industry in Germany. The losses are made up of technical damage caused by an uncoordinated shutdown of plants on the one hand and market-related consequential damage caused by lost production and a lack of product sales on the other.

Depending on the location and size of the plants, a short-term outage due to a lack of natural gas would result in average losses of EUR 5 million/plant. In addition, an ongoing daily loss would have to be expected which could be in the order of e.g. 250 000 EUR/day/plant, depending on the location. Furthermore, restarting the plants is questionable if supply chains could no longer be serviced and customers globally look for other suppliers in the meantime. Thus, entire sites would be at risk. With China's global market share in man-made fiber production already exceeding 70 %, a scenario is more than realistic that China will also take over these supply chains, thus leading to an even greater dependence on China.

The vast majority of power plants used for the production of man-made fibers, especially the highly efficient combined gas-and-steam power plants based on the principle of cogeneration with efficiencies of 90 %, are designed exclusively for the use of natural gas. Quite often, there are no technical facilities for operating gas turbines or steam boilers with fuels other than natural gas. Only in exceptional cases could a switch be made to mineral oil. However, even in these cases, the necessary stockpiling of mineral oil is designed only for a short-term failure of the gas burners. A change to base-load supply with mineral oil could take a time window of between 3 and 56 months, depending on the type of plant and taking into account licensing requirements. The use of hydrogen as an energy source is only possible in the very long term. In the few cases where natural gas can be substituted, investment costs of EUR 250 million/plant can be incurred, depending on the emission level of the converted plant.

A natural gas embargo imposed by the European Union on the Russian Federation would not only mean the cessation of production and the end for man-made fiber producers, but also for other industries such as basic chemicals, paper, metal production and glass and ceramics manufacturing, as well as their related sectors. As the German economic institute Institut der Deutschen Wirtschaft Köln e. V. (IW Köln) concluded in its summary report 40/2022 of April 2022: "No one can accurately predict what future these businesses would then still have in Germany. That would be an unprecedented development."

Source:

Industrievereinigung Chemiefaser e.V.