From the Sector

The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) has updated its report on Key Areas of Regulatory Challenge with new topics in line with the European Union’s Competitiveness Compass and the Clean Industrial Deal. Specific scientific research is needed to better protect people and the environment from hazardous chemicals and to develop balanced and effective regulatory measures.

The report introduces new topics to reflect ECHA’s growing responsibilities. It also covers emerging topics in waste and recycling that aim to support circularity and enhance Europe’s industrial competitiveness. 

For example, more specific research is needed on:  

• chemical emissions and exposure from the waste stage of materials to help create more accurate emission estimates to avoid potentially over-conservative regulatory measures;
• recycled non-fossil fuel resources, to improve our understanding of their hazards and support EU policies that aim to reduce pollution and promote sustainable growth; and
• the valuing of environmental impacts to assess the effectiveness and proportionality of chemicals regulation and specific regulatory actions under, for example, REACH and the Batteries Regulation.

Dr Sharon McGuinness, ECHA’s Executive Director, said: 
“Since ECHA’s first report in 2023, we have seen important, regulatory-relevant scientific research get underway. For example, new research has been initiated on developing analytical methods to detect and measure PFAS for use by enforcement authorities and on generating monitoring data on a specific phthalate that is a chemical of concern.   

“Our updated report reflects the European Commission’s Clean Industry Deal and Competitiveness Compass, by inviting more specific research to support the circular economy and innovation in Europe.”

Other research needs added to the report include developing better methods to monitor chemicals in water environments, such as rivers, lakes, and oceans, and how chemicals can contaminate drinking water from materials that come into contact with it.

Background
The Key Areas of Regulatory Challenge report is part of an evolving research and development agenda aiming to support and inspire the research community. The list of research needs is not exhaustive. The report reflects ECHA’s current priorities, including the Agency’s new tasks. It was originally developed to support the work under the Partnership for the assessment of risk from chemicals (PARC). 

PARC is a seven-year EU wide research and innovation programme under Horizon Europe which aims to advance research, share knowledge and improve skills in chemical regulatory risk assessment.

ECHA’s role in PARC is to ensure that the funded scientific research addresses current regulatory challenges related to chemical risk assessment and adds value to the EU’s regulatory processes.

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) sent a letter to Treasury Secretary Scott Bessent, following remarks the Secretary made about the U.S. textile industry at this morning’s White House daily press briefing:

Dear Mr. Secretary:

On behalf of the U.S. textile industry and our 471,000 American workers, we appreciate the Trump administration’s efforts to advance an America First Trade Policy to reshore high-quality industrial jobs by addressing unfair trade practices that have harmed U.S. manufacturers and workers for decades. As you may know, our industry publicly endorsed President Trump’s America First Reciprocal Trade Plan and the White House included our endorsement in its April 3 press release highlighting statements of support for the president’s initiative.

We are writing to request a meeting at your convenience with our top industry leaders. We noted your comments today during the press conference that “President Trump is interested in the jobs of the future, not the jobs of the past. We don't need to necessarily have a booming textile industry where I grew up again, but we do want to have precision manufacturing and bring that back.” Our industry saw your remarks and were disheartened to hear this sentiment, especially since this industry has been noted by President Trump himself on a number of occasions as critical and strategic. The U.S. textile industry was proud to make lifesaving PPE during the first Trump Administration in response to COVID. The U.S. proudly makes over 8,000 different products to the U.S. military alone to ensure we do not have to rely on foreign adversaries to make essential products. This is a strategically important, relevant, and key industry – which is why we were pleased the White House amplified the industry again in its press release on reciprocal tariffs.´

Today we write to underscore the importance of our industry and the jobs it offers to thousands of workers, sustaining communities across the United States. The U.S. textile industry provides much-needed employment in rural areas and has functioned as a springboard for workers out of poverty into good-paying jobs for generations, including in your home state of South Carolina. Last year, the multifaceted U.S. textile supply chain directly employed 471,000 workers and produced shipments of man-made fiber, yarns, fabrics, apparel and non-apparel sewn products valued at $64 billion.

The United States exported $28 billion worth of textile-related goods to global markets in 2024, making it the second largest exporter of textile and apparel products in the world. Most U.S. textile exports go to Canada, Mexico, or other Western Hemisphere countries with which the United States has a free trade agreement for finishing and return to the U.S. as apparel. This vibrant production supply chain with our closest trading partners competes directly against imports from China and other countries in Asia that often deploy unfair, predatory trade practices, such as subsidized production, dumped exports, intellectual property theft, undervalued currency, abhorrent labor abuses, and unsustainable environmental practices.

Our industry proudly remains a world leader in textile innovation with unparalleled breadth and scope of manufacturing capabilities. Over the past 10 years, the U.S. textile industry made $22.3 billion in capital investments in pursuit of the latest innovations related to sustainability and production. This focus on innovation enables the industry to create tens of thousands of products including apparel, industrial textiles, and home furnishings.

With the right policies, the Trump administration can encourage the U.S. textile industry to reinvest in America, preserve and grow our existing workforce, and spur greater production and sales of American-made textiles now and in the future.

We would like to meet at your convenience to discuss the critical nature of the U.S. textile industry and how the Administration can help this key supply chain onshore jobs. Thank you for your consideration of this timely request.

Respectfully,
Kimberly Glas, President and CEO

Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals, has successfully implemented a state-of-the-art Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD) technology at its Mahachai plant in Thailand. The ZLD solution was designed and built by Gradiant, a global leader in advanced water and wastewater treatment. This milestone project marks a major leap forward in water circularity, enabling the recovery of 90-95% of wastewater for reuse and the extraction of valuable minerals for industrial applications.

Archroma partnered with Gradiant to deploy a high-efficiency, membrane- and oxidation-based ZLD solution, reinforcing its commitment to responsible water management in the textile industry. Located in a water-stressed region near Bangkok, the Mahachai plant now serves as a model for sustainable textile dye production, significantly reducing reliance on local water supplies while improving environmental resilience.

As part of its broader sustainability endeavor, Archroma addresses critical challenges within the apparel and textile industry, particularly water consumption. “We believe in reducing water use in production and home laundering. We innovate to remove toxins and contaminants from our products, making wastewater treatment easier for our plants and customers,” said Dhirendra Gautam, VP Global Marketing and Strategy, Archroma. “Our goal is to require our plants to have effective water conservation facilities with special focus on water stressed areas, contributing to water conservation and helping to combat acute water scarcity worldwide.”

Since 2019, Archroma has evaluated various ZLD solutions to address growing water challenges in Thailand. Gradiant’s Counterflow Reverse Osmosis (CFRO) was selected as the preferred technology for its ability to treat diverse wastewater compositions with superior efficiency and minimal energy consumption. The modular system seamlessly integrates with the plant’s existing wastewater treatment infrastructure, maximizing desalination capacity and water recovery while reducing the plant’s environmental footprint.

In addition to CFRO, Gradiant’s Free Radical Oxidation (FRO) technology has been deployed to remove color and organics from the RO concentrate, ensuring safe discharge and meeting stringent environmental regulations. The system also enables the recovery of concentrated brine, which Archroma repurposes within the dyeing process or supplies to industry partners for applications such as resin regeneration and chlorine production, further promoting a circular economy in water and resource management.
Thailand faces mounting water stress due to climate change, extreme droughts, and aging infrastructure, making sustainable water management an urgent priority. By implementing Gradiant’s ZLD solution, Archroma significantly reduces its dependence on freshwater sources, ensuring long-term operational resilience in a resource-constrained environment.

This multi-million-dollar investment underscores Archroma’s dedication to water conservation and its broader mission to transform the textile industry through sustainable innovation. Beyond Thailand, Archroma continues to expand its ZLD initiatives globally, including its Sustainable Effluent Treatment (SET) plant in Jamshoro, Pakistan, which has been providing irrigation water to surrounding communities.

The British Textile Machinery Association (BTMA) is alerting apparel brands, retailers and their supply chain partners to an important change taking place this month.

As of February 24th 2025, the sale of all fluorescent lighting will officially come to an end in the EU and UK, with potentially significant implications for everyone along the supply chain – from designers and fabric manufacturers through to merchandisers and window display artists.

Eliminating mercury
“The phase-out of fluorescent lamps has been in progress for some years because they contain mercury which can be damaging to health,” explains BTMA CEO Jason Kent. “Lamps containing mercury were banned for general use in August 2023, impacting lighting in homes, factories and retail environments, but an exemption was granted for specialist applications such as visual and digital colour assessment until this month.

“So far, the legislation only initially applies in Europe and the UK but will rapidly be adopted globally and this means that specialist light booth manufacturers such as our member company VeriVide will no longer be able to sell new fluorescent-based light booths.”

“Colour consistency is vital throughout the textile supply chain and all participants – from designers to fabric and garment manufacturers – have to be working under the same lighting conditions to guarantee it,” adds VeriVide Sales Director Adam Dakin “The colour-matching that is carried out under fluorescent lamps in labs and design offices and passes through successive process steps in manufacturing can come out looking very different once it’s displayed in store under LEDs. This can result in very costly products returns, and even complete batch recalls.”

Colour ecosystem
VeriVide has spent the last decade developing and optimising its industry-leading all-LED light booths as part of its ecosystem of products specifically designed for instantly communicating colour decisions, colour fastness gradings, test reports and more, incorporating the DigiEye and DigiView digital colour measurement systems.

“What the ban means is we’ll no longer be able to manufacture fluorescent light booths,” says Adam. “What we will have going forward is the UltraView all-LED technology. We do, however, have a stock enabling customers to buy replacements for their existing light booths before transitioning to UltraView.”

Retail adoption
Since its launch in 2023, Ultra-View all-LED technology has already been successfully adopted by leading retail brands including H&M, George by Asda, Marks & Spencer, NEXT, River Island and Tesco.

“With UltraView from VeriVide, we are confident that we have future-proofed our capability for the visual assessment of colour,” says Gary Timmons, fabric technologist at NEXT.

“LED technology is the ideal alternative to fluorescent lighting being both mercury-free and using significantly less energy,” says Jason Kent in conclusion. “It’s vital that all players are working to the exact specs, especially because the textile supply chain can be so complex.”

UMAC, a member of the EREMA Group, is expanding its ReadyMac product line with a new 60 hertz version. This means that the immediately available plastics recycling solution can now be deployed worldwide. The standardised machine with its particularly attractive price-performance ratio will be presented in its new look for the first time at Plast Eurasia from 4-7 December 2024 in Istanbul.
    
The ReadyMac celebrated its market launch at K 2022. The recycling system, which is produced in stock and therefore available at short notice, has since established itself successfully in the 50 hertz version, particularly on the European market. Based on this success, UMAC is now also offering the ReadyMac 500 in a 60 hertz version. "The ReadyMac is suitable for a wide range of materials and degrees of contamination, processing film, flakes and regrind into high-quality recycled pellets. The fixed price of just EUR 375,000 makes it an attractive proposition," says Michael Köhnhofer, Site Manager at UMAC. The machine is produced in small series at the St. Marien site.

The ReadyMac is based on EREMA's proven TVE technology, in which degassing occurs after filtration. Equipped with a robust SW RTF® screen changer filtration system, the recycling machine processes both printed and contaminated waste. The multipurpose screw handles a wide range of materials efficiently and reliably. With a throughput of up to 500 kg/h for LDPE, LLDPE, MDPE, PP, PS, PC, ABS and up to 450 kg/h for HDPE, the ReadyMac 500 is a true all-rounder. In addition, the two frequency converters on the main drives (preconditioning unit and extruder screw) ensure consistently high throughputs and quality for a wide variety of material types, such as regrind, film or nonwoven, even without changing the screw. This enhances both flexibility and productivity. The frequency converters are now included as standard with the ReadyMac.

National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) President and CEO Kim Glas issued the following statement on news of the passing of Congressman Bill Pascrell (D-NJ).

Statement by NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas:

"The entire U.S. textile industry is mourning the loss of Congressman Bill Pascrell (D-NJ), a true leader and advocate for critical manufacturing policies aimed at bolstering the domestic supply chain and confronting ongoing threats from predatory trade practices.

We commend his significant contributions – not just to the U.S. domestic industry—but for American manufacturers and workers everywhere.

Rep. Pascrell had served as co-chair of the House Textile Caucus with Rep. Patrick McHenry (R-NC) since 2013 and was an ardent fighter for the U.S. textile industry and beyond.

In April, Congressman Pascrell championed a bill titled the Import Security and Fairness Act led by Rep. Earl Blumenauer (D-OR) that would exclude all Chinese imports from de minimis treatment, as highlighted in our blog post on a House Ways & Means markup.

He also penned an op-ed with Congressman McHenry highlighting the urgent need to drive investment and for onshoring and nearshoring textile and apparel production and to not weaken the critical U.S. and Central America  Dominican Republic-Central America Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA-DR)..

In addition, he co-sponsored legislation aimed at strengthening the American PPE supply chain which would expand the Berry Amendment to nearly all federal purchases of PPE.

As is evidenced above, Congressman Pascrell took on every policy battle in support of U.S. textiles and manufacturing in general as an unwavering supporter of maintaining and expanding a vital domestic manufacturing chain.  He worked closely with Rep. McHenry on critical textile issues to advance the cause for our domestic industry and its workforce.

He will be missed deeply by the industry and to all who knew him. We extend our gratitude to a manufacturing warrior and express our condolences to the entire Pascrell family and his staff team."

China in-store, which was established under the name C-Star as an official satellite of EuroShop in Shanghai in 2015, will be held in Hall N1 of the Shanghai New International Expo Center from 3 to 5 September 2024. In consumer-friendly and tech-savvy China innovative store design plays a prominent role, which is why the trade fair specifically focuses on instore design and high-end solutions for brands. On display will be solutions for store design, fittings, but also retail technologies that help to selectively shape stores as spaces for interacting with shoppers as well as stage their brand messages.

After the success of last year’s event attracting over 100 exhibitors and almost 14,000 trade visitors, China in-store 2024 will offer over 200 providers of retail design and retail-relevant solutions the opportunity to showcase their latest instore design, retail technology and retail solutions while inviting industry professionals to explore, learn and network. The exhibited products and solutions for shopfitting and the retail industry will include store design, materials as well as surfaces and furnishings for shops – ranging from displays fixtures and mannequins to visual merchandising services and omnichannel technologies.

Since personalisation in retail is increasing in importance, the Designer Village will present design companies with trail-blazing stand designs and visual merchandising solutions. The special area will inspire visitors with innovative store concepts that improve both the brand image and customer journey. At the Retail Technology Village the latest advances in AI, VR and data analytics will be presented. These technologies enable an omnichannel experience for shoppers and convert physical stores into third places. On the Retail Stage and the Design Stage experts, retailers and brands will present the latest retail trends, shopfitting strategies and innovations that drive the retail market. A themed exhibition is dedicated to changing trends in retail area design.  

Once again proving a highlight of China in-store will be the presentation of the ERDA China (EuroShop RetailDesign Award China) on 4 September 2024; this award recognises store designs and extraordinary store concepts from the Chinese market. This year the categories were extended. 

The EREMA Group, based in Ansfelden near Linz, Austria, closes the financial year 2023/24 with total revenues of EUR 380 million. A joint venture with the Lindner Group sees the group of companies expand its portfolio to include washing technology. EREMA Group GmbH now has eight subsidiaries: EREMA, PURE LOOP, PLASMAC, KEYCYCLE, Lindner Washtech, UMAC, plasticpreneur and 3S.

"With our machines and components, we have now reached a recycling volume of more than 25 million tonnes per year worldwide, which makes a significant contribution to the development of a circular economy for plastics," says Manfred Hackl, CEO of the EREMA Group. The group of companies manufactured 290 extruders for recycling plastic in the past financial year, supplemented by over 100 add-on components such as filter systems and ReFresher anti-odour technology. These recycling solutions generated total sales of EUR 380 million. Around 8,500 machines and components from the group are in operation in more than 100 countries. The EREMA Group employs 950 people worldwide.

Strategic investments in all areas of the plastics recycling industry
In recent years, the EREMA Group has invested in developing specific machines, applications and infrastructure. "The opening of the new R&D Centre in Ansfelden last summer and the new machines in the Customer Technology Center at EREMA North America at the beginning of this year, have seen us complete the largest phase of investment in our history to date. We have invested more than EUR 110 million in the expansion and modernization of our international locations over the past five years," emphasizes Horst Wolfsgruber, CFO of the EREMA Group. Another important milestone is the founding in August 2023 of the holding company BLUEONE Solutions together with the Austrian family-owned company Lindner. Incorporating Lindner Washtech means that the EREMA Group's extensive portfolio now also includes washing technology.

Developments in post consumer and PET recycling
The new DuaFil® Compact technology, which EREMA developed specifically for challenging applications with high levels of contamination and moisture, is proving successful. Since the launch at K 2022, around 20 INTAREMA® TVEplus® DuaFil® Compact systems have been sold. In the post consumer segment, ReFresher technology for the production of odour-optimised recycled pellets is also gaining ground and is now in use worldwide with a total capacity of one million tonnes per year for film and regrind applications. Another interesting new component is the DischargePro control system for the EREMA laser filter, which has been nominated for this year's Plastics Recycling Awards Europe. The discharge control system responds automatically to fluctuations in flow rate during the recycling process and reduces melt loss by up to 50 percent. With its new Fast-Track scheme, EREMA is responding to the demand for machines available at short notice at an attractive price-performance ratio.

For bottle applications, VACUREMA® systems have been proving their performance for 25 years. Over 400 EREMA PET systems for food grade are in operation worldwide, notching up a total capacity of more than 4.5 million tonnes per year. PET recycling is also becoming increasingly important in the textile industry. FibrePro:IV technology was developed especially for fibre-to-fibre recycling, which is used together with machine combinations from EREMA or PURE LOOP, who specialise in shredder-extruder technology, depending on the geometry and contamination of the PET fibre waste. For these applications, the EREMA Group has set up a fibre technical centre at its headquarters in Ansfelden.

Big potential for plastics recycling
The amount of plastic produced worldwide is currently around 400 million tonnes per year - and the figure is still rising. Around 9 percent of it is recycled globally. This represents big potential for the EREMA Group, as Manfred Hackl emphasizes.

Archroma is bringing its new SUPER SYSTEMS+ concept and key denim innovations to Denim Première Vision Milan on June 5 and 6 and Denimsandjeans Vietnam on June 26 and 27.

From classic blue jeans to fashion-forward designs with fresh cuts, colors and finishes, denim remains one of the most popular fabrics worldwide. At the same time, the industry is beginning to question traditional production methods that use considerable water and energy and also have limitations in terms of the selection of chemicals and dyes that are clean and safe.

Archroma will demonstrate its solutions at Denim Première Vision Milan and Denimsandjeans Vietnam, including SUPER SYSTEMS+ for Denim. SUPER SYSTEMS+ are end-to-end systems developed by Archroma to allow brands and mills to make an impact by saving resources, delivering more durable apparel or adopting cleaner chemistries, or by choosing enhanced outcomes in all three areas at once. The suite encompasses wet processing solutions from sizing to finishing; durable colors and functional effects that add value; and cleaner chemistries that go beyond compliance to anticipate future restrictions.

Trade show visitors will also be able to explore Archroma’s new DENIM HALO, a laser-friendly and easy washable denim, as well as a range of other product innovations, such as DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK, DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 and EarthColors®.

DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK is Archroma’s cleanest sulfur black dyestuff. Manufactured using fewer resources, it has an overall impact reduction to 57% during dye synthesis compared to standard Sulfur Black 1 liquid.* Importantly, it also offers mills the opportunity to deliver unique shade and wash-down effects that stand out in the market.

DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 LIQ is an aniline-free** pre-reduced indigo that creates authentic denim look with the same performance and efficiency as conventional indigo dye, but in a way that can reduce the risk of pollution. Furthermore, it is produced in an aniline-free** process to help enable cleaner denim production.

EarthColors® is a patented Archroma technology that creates high-performance biowaste-based dyes from non-edible food and agricultural waste, leaving the edible part available for consumption. EarthColors® dyes are fully traceable and help reduce the industry’s overall impact on the water footprint. Since they upcycle waste from other industries, they also help contribute to a circular economy.

* Ecotarrae lifecycle analysis
** Below limits of detection according to industry standard test methods

National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) President and CEO Kim Glas issued a statement welcoming the appointment of Katherine White as Chief Textiles and Apparel Negotiator for the U.S. Trade Representative’s Office (USTR).

“Katherine White is an excellent choice for the critical position of Chief Textiles and Apparel Negotiator. We are also grateful to U.S. Trade Representative Ambassador Katherine Tai for elevating this position back to a political appointee role, which is historically how it has been designated.

Katherine comes to this position with an outstanding resume, including a strong knowledge base and expertise in manufacturing policy and on textile-related trade issues, having worked most recently as an International Trade Policy Advisor on the House Ways and Means Committee, and prior to that, at the U.S. Department of Commerce and the White House.

Given the prominence of both the agency and her political appointment, we know she will play a highly instrumental role in shaping policy impacting our industry. She is a fantastic choice.  We thank Ambassador Tai for the redesignation of this critical office and her support for our textile industry and its workforce. We also sincerely thank Dr. Laurie-Ann Agama for her service in the role through this transition.

We could not be more delighted to work with Katherine in her new capacity and look forward to coordinating with her on manufacturing and worker-centered trade policy that will help bolster the vital domestic textile sector.”