From the Sector

On 8-9 April 2025, social partners from the Turkish textile industry met in Istanbul to discuss different topics such as the green and digital transition, due diligence and brand responsibility, skills and training in the textile sector, as well as the next steps in their efforts to achieve broader and more effective social dialogue.

In the context of the EU-funded StitchTogether project, which aims at promoting social partnerships in the European Textiles and Clothing Industry in seven countries in the EU and Türkiye, this seminar was also the occasion to draft the Istanbul Declaration: a joint statement to emphasise the social partners’ strong commitment to work together.

The meeting in Türkiye brought together representatives of the Turkish textile industry, including the Turkish employer association (TTSİS), national trade unions (Teksif, Öz İplik İş, DİSK Tekstil), brands representatives, the Ministry of Labour and stakeholders from the International Labour Organisation (ILO) and the Social Labour Convergence Programme, to discuss the future of the industry.

Together, social partners call upon the Government and the European Union to support the upcoming transformation of the textile and clothing industries, technology and skills upgrades, regional development and just transition. The Istanbul Declaration also includes a series of priorities, confirming social partners’ commitment in working together for a more competitive and fair Turkish textile industry.   

Judith Kirton-Darling, IndustriAll Europe's general secretary stated that “There are more than 1 million workers in the textile industry in Türkiye, who are facing many challenges which they have to adapt to. We stand in solidarity with our Turkish partners and recall the fundamental importance of freedom of association and freedom of collective bargaining in both law and practice, essential for the sector’s economic resilience.”

Dirk Vantyghem, EURATEX Director General, stressed that “Turkish companies face important challenges to adapt to a fast changing environment. This requires flexibility and joint efforts from workers and employers alike, to remain competitive. A constructive and open social dialogue is critical in this regard.”

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber to finished sewn products, issued the following statement March, 7 from President and CEO Kim Glas regarding President Donald Trump’s one-month suspension of tariffs for qualifying imports under the U.S.-Mexico-Canada Agreement (USMCA):

“We sincerely thank President Trump for pausing the 25 percent penalty tariffs on qualifying imports from Mexico and Canada under the USMCA trade deal for one month, while all parties continue to negotiate a deal to address his administration’s concerns over illegal immigration and fentanyl trafficking. We urge an expeditious resolution for all the parties to ensure the vitality of the U.S. textile industry.

“Under USMCA, the U.S. textile and apparel industry has formed a vital coproduction chain with Mexico and Canada that supports 1.6 million workers and generates $20 billion in two-way trade. It is by far the largest export region for American textile producers, representing $12.5 billion in combined U.S. exports – 53 percent of our total annual exports. U.S. textile inputs routinely come back as finished products to the United States under the trade agreement.

“As such, imposing tariffs on imported goods that comply with the USMCA would only serve to harm a key U.S. manufacturing sector that contributes significantly to the U.S. economy and workforce. It would also adversely impact two key trading partners and a North American coproduction chain that competes directly with China and Asia. In addition, it would further undermine the U.S. industry’s ability to make critical products for the U.S. military if this critical production chain were harmed.

“We appreciate President Trump’s delay in these tariffs and urge a more measured approach as well as a negotiated solution that at the very least exempts qualifying USMCA goods from penalty tariffs and closes the de minimis loophole once and for all.

“We look forward to working with President Trump and his administration on his trade agenda aimed at bringing jobs back to the U.S. and will continue to provide input on a plan to build a stronger, more vibrant domestic supply chain.”

On 19-20 February 2025, social partners from the Italian textile and fashion industry met in Rome to deepen their understanding of the upcoming EU legislations and their impact on the Italian textile industry, as well as to further discuss the next step in their effort for a more broad and effective social dialogue. In the context of the EU co-funded StitchTogether project, which aims at promoting social partnerships in the European Textiles and Clothing Industry, the meeting was also the occasion to draft the Rome Declaration: a joint statement to emphasise the social partners’ strong commitment to work together.

The meeting in Rome brought together representatives of the Italian textile industry, including the Italian employer association (Confindustria Moda), national trade unions (Femca-Cisl, Filctem-Cgil and Uiltec-Uil), regional clusters and companies to discuss the future of the industry. Together, they discussed the proposal for a sectoral industrial policy strategy to present to the Italian Government and the EU Commission for the support, consolidation and development of the textile-clothing supply chain.

The Rome Declaration includes a series of priorities, confirming social partners’ commitment in working together for a more competitive and fair Italian textile industry. The Declaration also calls upon the Italian Government and the European Union to support the upcoming transformation of the textile and clothing industries, technology and skills upgrades, regional development and just transition.

Says Judith Kirton-Darling, IndustriAll Europe's general secretary stated that “the Italian textile industry employs around 300,000 workers, or 24% of the European workforce in the textile and clothing sector, making it the largest in Europe. In a context of numerous challenges for the European textile industry, such as unfair globalization, green and digital transition, social dialogue is a real lever for improving working conditions and job security. We are committed alongside our Italian partners to a resilient and attractive textile industry in Italy”.

Dirk Vantyghem, EURATEX Director General, stressed that “Italy represents 36% of the total European textile and fashion industry; it is critically important therefore to maintain a strong Italian textile industry, which can be a benchmark for other countries. Combining quality, creativity and innovation is the recipe for success. This requires a dynamic company spirit, where employers and employees work hand in hand.”

The Lenzing Group, a leading supplier of regenerated cellulose fibers for the textile and nonwovens industries, welcomes the European Commission’s Clean Industrial Deal, which aims to pave the way for a sustainable, climate-neutral and competitive industry. Commission President Ursula von der Leyen discussed the initiative on Wednesday, February 26, 2025, together with 400 business leaders, including the CEO of the Lenzing Group, Rohit Aggarwal, in Antwerp (Belgium). The industry is calling on EU heads of state and government to take urgent measures in all EU member states without delay ahead of the upcoming European Council meeting in March.

“International trade tensions, volatile energy markets, and the need to decarbonise industries demand urgent collective action. We must continue to support Europe’s green leadership and ensure that those investing in sustainability are incentivised. We must act now, work together and translate ambition into tangible results”, emphasizes Rohit Aggarwal, CEO of Lenzing Group. “The Clean Industrial Deal is an important initiative for Europe’s industrial and sustainable future. It will strengthen Europe’s net-zero industry, expand green technology manufacturing, and enhance industrial competitiveness.”

One important aspect is access to affordable and clean energy, which is crucial for the global position and competitiveness of the industry.

“We appreciate the Commission President taking the time to join us today in Antwerp to present the Clean Industrial Deal. Nine out of ten calls of the Antwerp Declaration have been addressed. We need to transform Europe’s ambition ‘to be’, into a determination ‘to do’. Every day, Europe is falling behind its goals, and is losing quality jobs for our current and future generations of workers. In the turbulent times we are in we need bold action from the European Leadership,” said Ilham Kadri, President of the European Chemical Industry Council, Cefic.

Europe’s industries are facing historical challenges: declining demand, stalled investments, reduced capacity, and EU gas prices at 4 to 5 times higher than its competitors. Between 2023 and 2024, Europe’s manufacturing output – a sector employing over 31 million people – dropped another 2.6 percent. While for the chemicals industry – the industry of industries – Cefic’s recent study emphasised the severity, with over 11 million tons of capacity announced to be closed between 2023 and 2024, affecting 21 major sites.

To overcome these challenges, back in February 2024, 73 business leaders presented the Antwerp Declaration to Commission President, Ursula von der Leyen and former Belgian Prime Minister Alexander De Croo. The Antwerp Declaration lays out 10 concrete actions to restore the business case for investments, to implement Europe’s sustainability ambitions and safeguard quality jobs in Europe. It is now signed by over 1,300 signatories.

“Reading the Clean Industrial Deal, we need the Commission to focus, prioritise the three key actions that improve our situation already this year and put all power, boldness and bravery in the European Commission behind these. And give us a realistic planning for the remaining actions. When we say actions, we mean action, not strategies, policies or plans. Leave no stone unturned and break all taboos. We need the situation to change.” Marco Mensink, Cefic Director General.

“Cefic calls on all new EU initiatives to be evaluated against the following criteria: Do they keep Europe safe and independent, reduce energy prices, ease the administrative burden on companies, attract investments to Europe, create markets for sustainable products, and safeguard quality jobs in Europe? If the answer to any of these questions is no, EU policymakers should reconsider and revise the proposal accordingly.”

The British Textile Machinery Association (BTMA) is alerting apparel brands, retailers and their supply chain partners to an important change taking place this month.

As of February 24th 2025, the sale of all fluorescent lighting will officially come to an end in the EU and UK, with potentially significant implications for everyone along the supply chain – from designers and fabric manufacturers through to merchandisers and window display artists.

Eliminating mercury
“The phase-out of fluorescent lamps has been in progress for some years because they contain mercury which can be damaging to health,” explains BTMA CEO Jason Kent. “Lamps containing mercury were banned for general use in August 2023, impacting lighting in homes, factories and retail environments, but an exemption was granted for specialist applications such as visual and digital colour assessment until this month.

“So far, the legislation only initially applies in Europe and the UK but will rapidly be adopted globally and this means that specialist light booth manufacturers such as our member company VeriVide will no longer be able to sell new fluorescent-based light booths.”

“Colour consistency is vital throughout the textile supply chain and all participants – from designers to fabric and garment manufacturers – have to be working under the same lighting conditions to guarantee it,” adds VeriVide Sales Director Adam Dakin “The colour-matching that is carried out under fluorescent lamps in labs and design offices and passes through successive process steps in manufacturing can come out looking very different once it’s displayed in store under LEDs. This can result in very costly products returns, and even complete batch recalls.”

Colour ecosystem
VeriVide has spent the last decade developing and optimising its industry-leading all-LED light booths as part of its ecosystem of products specifically designed for instantly communicating colour decisions, colour fastness gradings, test reports and more, incorporating the DigiEye and DigiView digital colour measurement systems.

“What the ban means is we’ll no longer be able to manufacture fluorescent light booths,” says Adam. “What we will have going forward is the UltraView all-LED technology. We do, however, have a stock enabling customers to buy replacements for their existing light booths before transitioning to UltraView.”

Retail adoption
Since its launch in 2023, Ultra-View all-LED technology has already been successfully adopted by leading retail brands including H&M, George by Asda, Marks & Spencer, NEXT, River Island and Tesco.

“With UltraView from VeriVide, we are confident that we have future-proofed our capability for the visual assessment of colour,” says Gary Timmons, fabric technologist at NEXT.

“LED technology is the ideal alternative to fluorescent lighting being both mercury-free and using significantly less energy,” says Jason Kent in conclusion. “It’s vital that all players are working to the exact specs, especially because the textile supply chain can be so complex.”

As the global demand for technical textiles surges, India is emerging as a key hub for innovation and growth. Recognizing the vast potential of this evolving market, Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India announced a collaboration for ‘Techtextil India - the country’s premier platform for the technical textiles industry with Austrian Fibers Institute. This strategic alliance between the two-leading platforms in technical textiles will bring the Asia edition of the renowned Dornbirn GFC at a part of Techtextil India Symposium in 2025.

The 10th edition of Techtextil India 2025 which is scheduled from 19 – 21 November 2025, at the Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai, will open its doors for the Dornbirn Global fiber congress Asia on 18th November 2025 to be held under Techtextil India Symposium.

The Dornbirn GFC Asia in India 2025 will spotlight on theme titled as ‘Shaping the future: Sustainable Growth in Fiber Solutions and Innovations’. The conference will be led by globally acclaimed subject matter experts, researchers, manufacturers and thought leaders.

The GFC Asia – India Conference will host a diverse line-up of speakers from India and around the world, showcasing cutting-edge innovations and expertise in the fiber and textile industry. The discussions will spotlight ground-breaking advances in spinning technology.

Driven by intensive research and development, the upcoming edition of the Techtextil India will present the innovative strides made by the industry players. From various stages of production of man-made fibre, non-woven and others, to the evolving applications and maintenance methods, the expo will be a source of upgrading knowledge and expanding the network.

Techtextil India 2025 edition is already sold out and has witnessed a strong interest from leading global brands who have signed up to exhibit. Indian government is aiming for the technical textile market to reach USD 40 billion by 2030 and total exports targeted are USD 10 billion by 2030. The Indian government and the industry players are confident that India will soon become the world leader in manufacturing of technical textiles. Schemes like National Technical textiles Mission (NTTM) and Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS) are offering the benefits to industry stakeholders. Under NTTM, the government is focusing on 156 R&D projects for driving innovations. The government is also encouraging Foreign Direct Investments (FDIs) to boost the segment.

The growing focus on sustainability and circularity in textiles is opening up new avenues encouraging reuse, repairing, refurbishing and recycling of the products. Indian government and technical textile educational programmes are witnessing a growth to impart knowledge and skills across categories like medical textiles, mobile textiles, geotextiles, geosynthetics and etc., which represent an attractive future. Applications ranging from medical textiles to sportswear, automotive to construction and environmental sustainability are driving the demand for high-performance materials.

Amidst this backdrop, the collaboration of Dornbirn GFC and Techtextil India 2025 marks a pivotal step in positioning India as a global hub for technical textile innovation and strengthening cross-border knowledge exchange. With the technical textiles market poised to redefine industries, Techtextil Symposium India will also present Meditex Conference during the event.

The StitchTogether National Seminar in Poland delivers the Warsaw Declaration to enhance social dialogue for the Polish textile industry

On 6 December 2024, social partners from the Polish textiles industry adopted the Warsaw Declaration, a joint commitment to work on the competitiveness of their industry. The declaration is the outcome of a 2 day meeting, organised under the EU co-funded StitchTogether project, which aims at promoting social partnerships in the European Textiles and Clothing Industry. The meeting in Warsaw brought together representatives of the Polish textile industry, including employer associations, trade unions, education institutes and the government to discuss the future of the industry.

Poland has a long and proud tradition in textiles and clothing manufacturing, with 130,000 people employed in the sector, and 20,000 companies of which the vast majority are SMEs. But the sector is struggling due to tough global competition and price pressures. In this context, the Polish textile and clothing social partners are united in ensuring the sector can successful face the digital and green transition, while remaining competitive and resilient, with decent jobs for all.

The Warsaw Declaration includes a series of priorities, confirming social partners’ commitment in working together, but asking support of the Polish government to upgrade industrial strategies, making the textile industry more attractive with a qualified and trained workforce.

“In times of transition social dialogue is more vital than ever, employers and trade unions need to work together to anticipate the change and prepare for the future in this case to more sustainable textiles and clothing production in Poland. It is essential that the transition is a Just Transition that leaves no worker behind, and we want the transition to safeguard jobs in the sector and create new jobs, which must be decent jobs with decent pay. The transition requires support and we call on the Polish government to work with the social partners for a new sectoral industrial policy to support the sector and good industrial jobs,’’ says Judith Kirton-Darling, IndustriAll Europe's general secretary.

Dirk Vantyghem, EURATEX Director General, stressed that “the incoming Polish presidency of the EU is a unique opportunity to shape a Clean Industrial Deal that will strengthen the competitiveness of our companies. As our Polish textile companies clearly expressed during the event, they want to see changes on the energy costs and fair competition, instead of adding new regulations.”

The European LIFE ANHIDRA project marks a milestone in sustainability with the unveiling of its innovative closed-loop system for treating and reusing textile wastewater. During the event held at the Pizarro facility in Guimarães (Portugal), ANHIDRA was introduced as a revolutionary solution transforming water management in the textile industry. The event brought together the project’s key partners: Jeanologia, the Spanish company responsible for designing and building ANHIDRA and a global leader in sustainable technologies for the textile sector; AITEX, the Textile Industry Research Association; and Portuguese textile company Pizarro, accompanied by representatives from the European Commission.

A solution to reduce the textile industry’s water footprint
The textile industry consumes an estimated 93 billion m³ of water annually, accounting for 4% of global water use. ANHIDRA addresses this critical challenge by regenerating up to 95% of the water used in textile washing and finishing processes, returning it in optimal conditions for reuse.
With zero discharges, zero contamination, and no complex treatments, ANHIDRA stands out with exceptional results:

• 92% reduction in water consumption
• 98% reduction in wastewater generation
• Up to 15% reduction in energy consumption

ANHIDRA not only minimizes environmental impact but also reduces the operational costs associated with traditional water management, making it a competitive and eco-friendly solution.

Innovation and circular economy
Beyond water regeneration, ANHIDRA focuses on reusing textile waste. In collaboration with AITEX, the project is exploring how to transform fibrous fragments collected during water treatment into new textile products, reinforcing the project’s commitment to the circular economy.

"ANHIDRA not only transforms water management in the textile industry but also proves that sustainability and competitiveness can go hand in hand. This system sets a new global benchmark," said Vicent Albert, Jeanologia’s Product and Technology Director.

During the event, attendees observed the various stages of the system in action at the Pizarro pilot plant. The project plans to implement ANHIDRA in at least 36 industrial facilities over the next three years, aiming to expand to 100 systems internationally within five years. This is expected to save up to 12.34 million m³ of water annually.

Funded by the European Union's LIFE program, LIFE ANHIDRA demonstrates how business cooperation and technological innovation can provide effective solutions to major environmental challenges. "Our goal is to make this technology accessible to the entire textile industry, contributing to a more sustainable future for fashion and the planet," concluded Vicent Albert, project coordinator.

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This project has received funding from the European Union's LIFE program (grant agreement no. 101074372). The content of this document is the sole responsibility of the authors and does not necessarily reflect the position of the European Union, CINEA, or the corresponding funding program.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, and EDANA, the Voice of Nonwovens released the Global Nonwoven Markets Report, A Comprehensive Survey and Outlook, 2023–2028, it is now available for purchase through both INDA’s and EDANA’s websites.

This latest edition offers a comprehensive analysis of global nonwoven macro drivers, supply and demand trends, and an expanded regional trade section. The report forecasts a steady growth in demand for nonwovens across key sectors over the next five years.

Key Insights from the Report Include:

• Production Growth
  From 2013 to 2023, nonwoven production increased at an annual rate of 5.4%, with significant growth driven by the spunlaid and needlepunch processes.
• Regional Production
  China led global production growth, contributing an additional 4.5 million tonnes from 2013 to 2023—a remarkable 9.4% annual growth rate.
• End-Use Expansion
  Wipes, medical, and transportation segments experienced the fastest expansion among nonwoven end-use applications.

“The global nonwovens industry is changing in a positive way with moves toward innovation and sustainable products,” said the report’s co-authors Jacques Prigneaux, Market Analysis & Economic Affairs Director at EDANA and Mark Snider, Chief Market and Industry Analyst at INDA.

This report offers a detailed breakdown of regional demographics, production forecasts, technological advancements, and investment outlooks for North America, Greater Europe, Asia, and South America. Additionally, it includes an economic trade analysis, end-use segmentation, and insights into future industry trends.

“As strategic partners, INDA and EDANA are committed to sustained growth and innovation within the entire nonwovens supply chain. This report presents our collective best estimate on future demand, predicated on sound macro-economic analysis,” said INDA President Tony Fragnito. “This Global Nonwoven Markets Report is an essential planning resource for all those involved in strategic planning within the nonwovens supply chain.”

“The demand for reliable market information and forward-looking data is a vital ingredient for thriving a successful business. This new report, developed by our two leading nonwovens industry associations, draws on decades of experience, close observation, and direct data collection from hundreds of companies," stated EDANA General Manager Murat Dogru. "Created by the industry for the industry, it stands as a unique, authoritative, and reliable resource on nonwovens data than any other report.”

Global Standard, the non-profit that manages the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), in partnership with The Hague-based UpRights Foundation, announced the launch of the GOTS Due Diligence Handbook for Auditors. This landmark resource is a critical step in promoting sustainable practices, human rights and ethical business conduct across the textile sector and in line with evolving regulatory requirements around the world.  
 
"The GOTS Due Diligence Handbook for Auditors is not only a milestone for GOTS, but also a transformative tool for the textile industry on its journey towards responsible production," said Ruslan Alyamkin, Responsible, Standard Development and Implementation (Social Responsibility) at Global Standard. "This Handbook provides our Certification Bodies with the knowledge and guidance they now need to ensure that the highest standards of environmental and human rights due diligence are met and verified. By aligning with international frameworks and the recent legislative developments, we are further strengthening Global Standard’s mission to promote sustainable, transparent and socially responsible practices throughout global textile supply chains.”
 
Purpose
The GOTS Due Diligence Handbook for Auditors provides a comprehensive framework to guide Certification Bodies and their auditors in assessing compliance with the GOTS 7.0 criteria. Specifically designed to be practical and ensure consistent verification of due diligence, human rights and social criteria, the Handbook outlines clear, step-by-step methodologies for auditors to conduct thorough and effective audits.
 
The Handbook is not intended to replace or override the existing audit protocols and procedures already used by Certification Bodies but instead provides additional insights and tools.
 
In addition, the new Handbook complements the GOTS Due Diligence Handbook for Certified Entities, which was released in 2023 and offers detailed guidance on integrating responsible practices throughout operations and supply chains. Together, these resources are essential elements of the Global Standard Due Diligence Framework and empower GOTS Certified Entities and Certification Bodies to play their part in maintaining the highest standards of human rights and environmental due diligence.
 
Development of the Handbook
As with other Global Standard resources, the development of the GOTS Due Diligence Handbook for Auditors was an inclusive process involving extensive consultation with a wide range of stakeholders. Global Standard's Standard Development Unit conducted in-depth interviews with GOTS auditors to gain insight into the practical challenges and best practices in verifying compliance with human rights, social and due diligence criteria in different geographical regions. In addition, Global Standard engaged business and human rights experts to address sector-specific issues and complexities. This collaborative approach ensures that the Handbook reflects the operational realities and challenges of GOTS Certified Entities around the world.
 
Regulatory Landscape
The Handbook’s release is timely given the evolving global regulatory landscape, which is increasingly demanding stronger corporate accountability in business practices. Recently, the EU Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD) introduced mandatory due diligence requirements for companies operating within the EU. The introduction of CSDDD significantly elevates standards for corporate transparency and accountability. Other laws, including Germany’s Supply Chain Act, France’s Duty of Vigilance Law and Norway’s Transparency Act, are placing similar expectations on businesses to manage their human rights and environmental impacts responsibly.
 
GOTS 7.0 requires Certified Entities to respect universally recognised human rights criteria and follow the emerging legal obligations under the CSDDD and other due diligence laws.