From the Sector

Pili, a French pioneer in biobased dyes and pigments, partners with Orta, the Turkish denim mill and Citizens of Humanity, a California-based high-end denim brand known for its commitment to quality and sustainability.

They are beginning a transformative shift in the denim industry with the commercial launch of the first products dyed with Pili’s biobased indigo. The first products will debut in January in the Spring 2025 collections of Citizens of Humanity and AGOLDE.

A New Ecological Standard for the Denim Industry
In 2024, Pili achieved a major milestone by producing its first tons of biobased indigo, enabling the creation of sustainable denim articles, a turning point in the company's efforts to decarbonize the textile industry especially denim.

Pili has developed unique processes combining fermentation and organic chemistry to offer a high-performance, eco-friendly alternative to petrochemical dyes. Their ecological alternative significantly reduces the use of toxic chemicals and fossil resources, while aiming to cut CO2 emissions up to 50%. It meets the same performance as petrochemical indigo while seamlessly integrating into existing dyeing processes without requiring additional investment in commercial dyeing equipment.

Pili’s colors development is based on standardized Life Cycle Assessments (LCAs), ensuring a rigorous process to measure and minimize their environmental impact.

A Partnership Driving Sustainable Transformation in the Industry
Fiber and dye are the two main components of denim products and also the ones with the greatest impact on their production. The partnership between Citizens of Humanity, Pili, and Orta establishes one of the highest ecological standards in the market with the use of regenerative cotton and biobased indigo.

Pili biobased indigo will make its debut in Citizens of Humanity and AGOLDE’s Spring 2025 collections. This long-term partnership between Citizens of Humanity, Orta, and Pili will continue to expand in future collections. The launch will be exclusive on NET-A-PORTER on January 6, 2025, before being extended to agolde.com, citizensofhumanity.com, and other global retailers.

A Key Step Towards the Decarbonization of the Color Industry
Building on this first success, Pili is accelerating the development of coloring solutions for various industrial applications, particularly in the inks, paints, and polymers sectors. The aim is to decarbonize everyday products using high-performance biobased pigments, with the first applicative tests set to begin this year. Pili continues its mission to decarbonize the color industry, paving the way for a sustainable revolution.

Autoneum expands its sustainable product portfolio for commercial vehicles with new polyester-based side and rear wall panels. Their carrier material consists of Propylat PET, the company’s eco-friendly and fully recyclable Pure technology made of 100 percent polyester. Autoneum’s components thus offer a significantly more sustainable alternative to the composite or thermoset resin panels commonly used in trucks today, which are difficult to recycle. Thanks to the unique material composition of Propylat PET, they contribute to optimized acoustic and thermal management.

With the establishment of a dedicated Business Unit Commercial Vehicles at the beginning of 2024, Autoneum has set the course for further sustainable and profitable growth in this market segment on a global scale. Manufacturers of medium and heavy trucks as well as agricultural vehicles thus benefit not only from Autoneum’s existing production footprint and comprehensive product and technology portfolio, but also from the Company’s longstanding experience in the development and manufacturing of environmentally friendly monomaterials. Components such as the new polyester-based side and rear wall panels support customers in improving the environmental performance of commercial vehicles and are therefore an important step towards a circular economy also in this vehicle segment.

The carrier material of Autoneum’s sustainable trim components consists of 100 percent polyester. Thanks to the high content of recycled fibers and the excellent end-of-life recyclability of Propylat PET, the side and rear wall panels from Autoneum are considerably more environmentally friendly than the composite or thermoset resin alternatives commonly used in trucks today. Furthermore, additional components can be welded onto the material without the use of adhesives or other chemicals, which further increases the products’ recyclability at the end of their service life. Due to the unique material composition of Propylat PET, the components also improve the acoustic and thermal insulation of the vehicle interior and are characterized by minimal emission of volatile organic compounds as well as low odor. In addition, Autoneum continues to invest in the develop-ment of monomaterial components for commercial vehicles, where both the carrier material and the aesthetic surface are made entirely of polyester, thus further advancing the transition to a sustaina-ble circular economy.

Based on the data that the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) has received from Member States, imports of other hazardous chemicals to the European Union (EU) decreased by 56 % in 2023.

The annual report under the Prior Informed Consent (PIC) Regulation on imports and exports of chemicals that are banned, or severely restricted, in the European Union shows that substances containing benzene continued to dominate the trade in 2023.

Benzene as a constituent of other substances in concentrations equal to, or greater than 0.1 % by weight was included in Annex I of PIC in 2022, entering into force on 1 July 2022. In 2023, it accounted for 98 % of total exports (65 147 553 tonnes) and approximately 99 % of total imports (65 739 206 tonnes).

The reported quantities for exports of other PIC chemicals in 2023 increased by 8 %, whereas imports decreased by 56 % compared to 2022. The rest of the top 6 imported and exported chemicals in 2023 were similar to those in 2022.

Exports of pesticides continued to decrease for a second year in a row. From 2022 to 2023, the reported exports of pesticides decreased by 10 % (from 192 674 to 173 451 tonnes). From 2021 to 2022, the decrease was 21 %.

Exports - 532 companies from 23 EU countries provided data to ECHA on the exports of PIC chemicals from the EU in 2023. Four EU countries (Cyprus, Estonia, Luxembourg and Malta) and the United Kingdom (Northern Ireland) declared that they had not exported PIC chemicals.

Imports - 207 companies from 23 EU countries submitted data on imports of PIC chemicals into the EU in 2023. Four EU countries (Bulgaria, Cyprus, Luxembourg and Malta) and the United Kingdom (Northern Ireland) declared that they had not imported PIC chemicals.

Article 10 of the PIC Regulation requires importers and exporters to give information about the annual trade of chemicals listed in Annex I to the regulation to their designated national authorities by 31 March of the following year. Each EU country must then provide the aggregated information to ECHA so that it can be summarised at EU level and non-confidential information can be made publicly available.

An EU-wide project of ECHA’s Enforcement Forum found that 35 % of the checked safety data sheets (SDS) were non-compliant. Compliance has improved compared to earlier enforcement projects, but more efforts are needed to further enhance the quality of information to better protect workers, professional users and the environment from risks posed by hazardous chemicals.

Inspectors in 28 EU-EEA countries checked over 2,500 safety data sheets (SDS) to enforce the new requirements introduced in 2023. The primary goal was to check whether the SDS were complete, up-to-date and included all the required information, especially the new information required. Second objective was to check the quality of the information, its consistency and compliance with the legal requirements.

Inspectors found that 35% of the inspected SDS did not comply with the legislation – either because the content did not meet the requirements or the safety data sheet was not provided at all.

It was also found by inspectors that the flow of SDS in the supply chain works well – suppliers provided the SDS to the recipients when required in 96 % of the cases. Additionally, most of the 2,500 SDS were updated to the new format.

Among the new information requirements, the biggest challenge was the lack of information on nanoforms and on endocrine disrupting properties, missing respectively in 67 % and 48 % of the checked SDS where it was required. Another relevant finding was that some of the SDS (16 %) lacked the information required by the authorisation decisions.

The Forum project also reported deficiencies in data quality for 27 % of the inspected SDS. Common issues included incorrect information on hazard identification, composition or exposure control. Additionally, 18 % of the checked SDSs lacked the required exposure scenarios.

Enforcement actions
To address non-compliance, inspectors primarily issued written advice, but also used administrative orders, fines and, in some cases, filed criminal complaints.

Abdulqadir Suleiman, chair of the Enforcement Forum’s working group, said:
“In recent years, inspectors have observed improvements in the compliance of chemicals suppliers with their obligation to provide up-to-date safety data sheets. These compliance improvements could be attributed to the harmonised requirements of REACH, great efforts by the industry, continued focus by enforcement authorities, but also the dialogue between enforcement and stakeholder organisations about improving the quality of safety data sheets held some years back.

“However, there is still work to be done to enhance the quality of the information to ensure better protection of the European workers who are handling hazardous chemicals in the workplace.”

Background
SDS are used by chemical suppliers to provide their professional and industrial customers with information about the properties and risks of the chemicals and how to handle, store, use and dispose them safely. The SDS are critical to the protection of workers. They should be used by employers, or health and safety professionals of the downstream users, for carrying out chemical risk assessments in the workplace, required under the Occupational Health and Safety legislation.
This project followed an update to the safety data sheet requirements that have been in force since 2023. The SDS must now include information on nanoforms, endocrine disrupting properties, conditions of authorisation, UFI codes, acute toxicity estimates, specific concentration limits and several other parameters that help to handle chemicals safely. This change in legal requirements necessitated an update of all the SDS to include new information.

In addition to checking the data relevant to the new requirements, inspectors also checked the quality and correctness of the information included in many of the safety data sheet sections.

The inspections of this enforcement project were conducted between January and December 2023 in 28 EEA countries.

ALLIED Feather + Down (AF+D), global experts in high performance, ethically sourced, and recycled down, will be supplying their high performance ExpeDRY ultra dry down to Montane for their fall 2025 down apparel line.

ExpeDRY represents the evolution of performance down for use in extreme situations, replacing chemical treatments with gold particles permanently bonded to down clusters. ExpeDRY keeps water vapor from condensing into droplets, providing better real-world performance than all other treatments. The ExpeDRY filled products will also dry significantly faster in-home laundry making care easier and utilizing much less energy through the life of the products.

Montane will offer ExpeDRY in 100% of their down jackets, being the first to adopt the technology over all down jackets.

“ALLIED introduced the world’s first water resistant down back in 2015, and we’ve learned a lot since then,” said Matthew Betcher, Creative Director with ALLIED. “Traditional WR down works great when in direct contact with water, but that is not what’s happening inside down insulation chambers. Water vapor is the biggest issue and ExpeDRY helps keep this vapor from condensing, allowing it to evaporate though the shell more effectively, keeping the down drier for longer, and helping it to dry out faster if it does get wet.

“It is also equally important that even in performance technologies, we continue to strive to reduce our environmental impact,” added Betcher. “So, removing another unnecessary chemical from our supply chain will help significantly with that. It’s only a matter of time before we all realize that the C0 chemicals we are using might not be so great for the planet after all.”

“At Montane, we are really excited to introduce such a new and disruptive technology from our long-term partners Allied Feather & Down,” said Liam Steinbeck, Materials Manager with Montane. “ExpeDRY is fully aligned with our philosophy as a brand to be one of the first to market with the latest most innovative technologies, bringing unparalleled performance and comfort in the most demanding environments.”

Poised to render current, chemical-intensive treatments obsolete, ExpeDRY down insulation is cleaner and better performing than all current water-resistant down technologies. Created in partnership with FUZE Technologies and relying on gold particles permanently bonded to down plumes, ExpeDRY is permanent and since it is completely chemical free, there are no PFAS or other concerns. In all real-world simulations, ExpeDRY is far better at keeping insulated jackets dry and warm in any environment, and at a significantly lower impact than the WR treatment alternatives.

Active Apparel Group (AAG), manufacturer of performance apparel for the leisure/lifestyle and active market, has attained B Corp Certification, solidifying their role as one of a select few pioneers in environmental, social, and governance (ESG) practices for their industry, customers, and partners.

AAG achieved a score of 84.9 points on the rigorous B Impact Assessment (BIA), exceeding the 80-point threshold required for B Corp certification. This demonstrates Active Apparel Group's dedication to workers, customers, community, and the environment, all part of the brand’s dedication to using business as a force for good.

The strongest areas represented in this score were Governance (17.6 pts), Workers (24.9 pts) and Customers (4.1 pts), which are significantly higher vs country, sector, and size benchmarks for similar B Corp certified companies.

A highlight of Active Apparel Group's certification was the achievement of hard-to-earn Impact Business Model (IBM) points for their practices in Toxin Reduction / Remediation. This recognition highlights AAG’s deep commitment to reducing harmful chemicals in their production processes through the use of 100% OEKO-TEX certified inks and responsible chemical management practices.

AAG already pays all workers a living wage. In 2023, an audit by third-party Bureau Veritas of AAG’s factory in China, Ningbo Longson Garments Co. Ltd (Longson), confirmed a 100% pass rate. Employees received wages exceeding the calculated living wage, 29% above the local minimum wage and 140% greater than the poverty line in Ningbo. Remuneration at this level remains a rarity in the manufacturing industry in China.

AAG has also committed to a structured approach in reducing its environmental impact across its global operations through an Environmental Management System (EMS). The EMS, built using the ISO14001 Standard Framework, incorporates key environmental policy commitments and has set targets and strategies to reduce the carbon footprint of its operations across China, Australia and the USA.

B Corp certification places AAG’s environmental, social, and governance practices in the company of a select few manufacturers in the performance apparel manufacturing industry, giving all AAG customers the confidence that they are partnering with a global leader in this space

Neste, Alterra and Technip Energies have signed a collaboration agreement to advance the circularity of plastics by providing the industry a standardized technology solution for chemical recycling, also referred to as “advanced recycling”.

The partners aim to globally offer a standardized modular solution, based on Alterra’s proprietary liquefaction technology, to parties interested in building capacity for chemical recycling.

This solution will come in the form of readily designed and engineered liquefaction plant modules, which will allow for lower pre-investment costs, accelerated implementation time, high predictability on project economics and reduced overall capital costs. Contributing to more effective execution of chemical recycling capacity projects, the solution helps the industry to reduce dependency on virgin fossil resources and accelerate the circularity of polymers and chemicals.

Alterra’s technology is a thermochemical liquefaction process, which converts hard-to-recycle plastics into a liquid hydrocarbon product. This liquid intermediate product can then be further refined into high-quality raw materials for new plastics and chemicals. As of today, Neste alone has processed more than 6,000 tons of plastic-derived feeds, including ISCC PLUS certified oil from Alterra’s industrial-scale site in Akron, Ohio.

Combining the expertise of three companies in one solution
Alterra and Neste started collaborating in chemical recycling in 2021, jointly improving aspects of Alterra’s technology and creating respective value chains. Alterra and Technip Energies started their collaboration in chemical recycling in 2022. The three companies now join efforts in a unique endeavor: Alterra and Neste will license the liquefaction technology and Technip Energies will design, engineer and deliver the standardized liquefaction plant solution to interested parties globally.

When PERFORMANCE DAYS opens its doors on October 23 and 24, 2024, in Halls A1 and A2 at the Messe München exhibition grounds, visitors will once again find fabric innovations for Fall/Winter 2026 across the segments of performance wear, footwear, accessories, and, for the first time, bodywear. The jury, composed of renowned industry experts, reviewed the latest fabrics for the 2026 season in the Trend, Footwear, and Bodywear Forum, looking for outstanding innovations. A total of one Performance Award and one Eco Performance Award were presented.

PERFORMANCE DAYS continues to deliver plenty of highlights and innovations in technical fibers and materials in the Trend Forum at the winter exhibition. Since Fall 2023, the event has also focused on the footwear segment, summarizing the latest trends and news in the dedicated Footwear Forum. Starting in October 2024, the organizers will introduce a new Bodywear Collective, complete with a corresponding Trend Forum. In close collaboration with the London Contour Experts and designer and industry expert Nichole de Carle, PERFORMANCE DAYS will feature a Trend Forum dedicated to underwear, shapewear, bras & leggings, yoga in motion, and swimwear.

The expert jury, led by Marco Weichert, CEO of PERFORMANCE DAYS, Jury Head Alexa Dehmel, and guest jurors Regina Goller, a textile expert with experience in sustainable functional fabrics at companies like Odlo, Puma, and Jack Wolfskin, as well as Stephan Prinz, Account Manager Germany at Klopman, praised the quality, sustainability approaches, and high level of innovation in the submissions. The jury awarded one Performance Award (Bodywear) and one Eco Performance Award (Apparel).

The winners are: A. Sampaio & Filhos – Têxteis SA & Penn Textile Solutions GmbH/Penn Italia SRL
For the Fall/Winter 2026 season, the jury selected three awards for outstanding fabrics.

Alongside the Eco Performance Award, which went to A. Sampaio & Filhos – Têxteis SA for the article “69222/Colorful chemistry featuring holistic farming,” one Performance Award
was also presented for the first time in the bodywear segment: Penn Textile Solutions GmbH/Penn Italia SRL made their debut in the Bodywear Forum with "13949.

ECO PERFORMANCE AWARD: A. Sampaio & Filhos – Têxteis SA / Article “69222 - Colorful Chemistry Featuring Holistic Farming”
In collaboration with Good Earth Cotton, this project focuses on sustainable farming practices to reduce the environmental impact of cotton while improving soil health, paving the way for a carbon-neutral future. The supplier is also exploring innovations with organic cotton grown using regenerative farming methods, expanding the scope for future eco-friendly concepts. Additionally, the fabric is dyed using biological dyes—an innovative technique where natural bacteria produce pigments that bond efficiently with the fabric a low temperatures without the use of petrochemicals. The fabric is available in pink and
sand.

Jury Statement: “This fabric takes this year’s focus topic to the next level! A. Sampaio & Filhos – Têxteis SA’s fabric innovation showcases the future of dyeing with microorganisms. Textile dyeing with living organisms is a sustainable and resource-efficient method that requires no harmful chemicals. Additionally, the fabric, made from 100% organic cotton, excels in performance due to an innovative body-mapping concept that provides optimal support during wear.”

PERFORMANCE AWARD: Penn Textile Solutions GmbH / Penn Italia SRL / Article “13949” This fabric, composed of 68% recycled polyamide and 32% ROICA, with a weight of 290 grams, is perfect for baselayer construction. It can be customized with the brand’s own design, featuring open structures and a 3D effect for added texture. Despite its structure, the fabric has an incredibly soft touch, ensuring maximum comfort during wear. Jury Statement: “Penn Textiles was a popular vote, an award worthy of the jury. The fabric has a combination of high density opaque areas with lighter breathable panels. A superior choice for the Bodywear Category because of its customisable 3D design aesthetic, printable qualities and second skin super soft touch. The fabric blend of Roica yarn and recycled PA has many admirable qualities for next to skin, including anti-odor, quick dry and outstanding stretch and recovery to adapt to the body shape. Fabric, with a perfect fit for body contouring products including leggings, underwear and light support shapewear.”

Specialty chemicals innovator Perstorp, a wholly owned subsidiary of PETRONAS Chemicals Group Berhad (PCG), received a platinum medal for being among the top 1 percent of companies assessed for sustainability by EcoVadis.

Perstorp progressed in all four assessed areas compared to the previous year; Environment, Labor & Human rights, Ethics and Sustainable Procurement.

Since its founding in 2007, EcoVadis has grown to become one of the world's largest and most trusted provider of business sustainability ratings, creating a global network of more than 130,000 rated companies. The EcoVadis sustainability assessment methodology is an evaluation of how well a company has integrated the principles of Sustainability/CSR into their business and management system. The methodology is built on international sustainability standards, including the Global Reporting Initiative, the United Nations Global Compact, and the ISO 26000, covering 220+ spend categories and 180+ countries.

A collaboration that unites Monforts’ dyeing and finishing equipment, BW Converting’s Baldwin TexCoat G4™ digital spray technology and Archroma’s chemistries towards sustainable solutions is charting the course for the future of sustainable textile finishing.

Together, the three companies will support dyeing and finishing manufacturers, a critical part of the textile supply chain, in their development projects, boosting the quality and performance of their finished products, while at the same time maximizing the productivity and resource utilization of the finishing application process.  

Kicking off the partnership in the second half of this year, Monforts will install BW Converting’s full-width Baldwin TexCoat digital spray unit on a stenter frame at its Advanced Technology Center (ATC) at its headquarters in Mönchengladbach, Germany.

“Our ATC already houses two full Montex stenter finishing lines engineered to accommodate an extremely diverse range of processes, in addition to a Thermex range for the continuous dyeing of denim and other woven fabrics, a full color kitchen and a number of lab-scale systems for smaller batch trials,” explained Monforts Junior Technologist Saskia Kuhlen. “It enables our customers to test their own textiles and technical fabrics under fully confidential, real production conditions and using the results from these trials we are also able to make recommendations for improving many fabric finishes. The new TexCoat installation will make an important contribution to what we can achieve.”
 
TexCoat G4 revolutionizes the traditional water- and energy-intensive pad-dry-cure finishing process by precisely applying chemistry including softeners, antimicrobials, durable water repellents, flame retardants, resins and most other water-based chemicals across the textile surface only where it is required, on one or both sides of the fabric. The system can therefore reduce water, chemistry and energy consumption by up to 50% compared to traditional pad application processes.

The TexCoat G4 installation brings together the surface functions, fabric transport and thermal processing technology of Monforts stenter frames with Archroma’s specialty chemicals, applied with TexCoat’s contactless precision, to achieve optimum absorption and maximum efficacy, exceeding the performance of traditional pad applications.

“Archroma’s commitment to advancing sustainability solutions for technical textiles has led to a pivotal partnership with Baldwin, where the benefits of contactless precision spray combined with our innovative solutions have helped textile manufacturers achieve greater energy and water savings,” said Michael Schuhmann, Global Marketing Segment Manager for Technical Textiles, Archroma Textile Effects. “We are thrilled to take the partnership to the next level with the integration of a renowned equipment expert. Together, we will bring the best of our expertise in sustainable technologies to our customers around the world.”

“Baldwin has enjoyed a great relationship with Monforts and Archroma over the last few years,” added Rick Stanford, Baldwin’s Vice-President of Business Development for Textiles “Individually, we are working hard to assist our customers to achieve their sustainability and environmental targets but this is the first time the three companies have committed to working together with a focus on bringing transformative change to the dyeing and finishing space. It will result in significantly lower energy, chemical and water consumption with increased productivity and higher quality.  We strongly believe that this partnership will be greater than the sum of its parts.”

Beyond textile finishing, Monforts, Baldwin and Archroma will work together to develop a versatile offering that will include coloration concepts and in the not-too-distant future the partners additionally plan to expand their collaboration to continuous spray dye applications developed by Baldwin.