From the Sector

Helmut Bacher, co-founder of Austrian plastics recycling machine manufacturer EREMA and former managing partner, passed away on 20 September at the age of 81.

Helmut Bacher is regarded as a pioneer of plastics recycling. Together with his two colleagues Georg Wendelin and Helmuth Schulz, Helmut Bacher founded EREMA Engineering Recycling Maschinen und Anlagen Ges.m.b.H. in Linz, Austria, in 1983. Their life’s work was acknowledged in 2008 when the three founders received the Golden Award of Honour from the Province of Upper Austria.

Helmut Bacher displayed visionary foresight and open mind in playing a key role in shaping the plastics recycling industry. Following his training as a fitter and completing his schooling as a mechanical engineer, he worked in various technical positions before moving to a mechanical engineering company for plastics processing in the early 1970s. Helmut Bacher shared with his two colleagues a belief in the potential of plastics recycling. During countless trials, he searched for the right solution - until he found it. Despite initial adversity, the three founders remained convinced of the idea of a cost effective recycling machine for plastic waste and started up their own company in 1983.

At the K trade fair in Düsseldorf in 1983, EREMA presented a simple, robust, reliable and economical recycling system, signalling the start of a success story. The young company produced its first orders in modest premises in Leonding with two small workshops and a double garage. Today, the plants and components supplied by the EREMA Group achieve recycling capacities of over 25 million tonnes of plastic per year worldwide.

Up until his retirement from company management in 2004, Helmut Bacher was a driving force behind the company and remained closely associated with the EREMA Group until his death. His technical ability, coupled with solution-orientated thinking and genuine appreciation of his employees, have left a lasting impression and continue to shape the company to this day.

Die International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) hat auf der „ITMF & IAF Conference 2024 die Gewinner des ITMF Awards 2024 bekannt gegeben. Mit dabei sind in der Kategorie „ITMF International Cooperation Award 2024“ die DITF und ihr Partner, die französische Firma RBX Créations. Sie erhielten die Auszeichnung für die Einführung eines neu entwickelten, hanfbasierten Zellstoffs und dessen Weiterverarbeitung zu filamentgesponnenen Zellulosefasern. Die Konferenz fand vom 8. – 10. September in Samarkand, Usbekistan statt.

Neue Faserstoffe und textile Erzeugnisse aus Hanf – bei der Vorstellung einer neuartigen Produktionslinie steht für die Kooperationspartner DITF und RBX Créations der Nachhaltigkeitsgedanke in der textilen Wertschöpfungskette im Vordergrund. Denn das Ausgangsmaterial Hanf wird aus lokalem Anbau gewonnen und die Weiterverarbeitung zu textilen Fasern, Garnen und Stoffen aus Zellulose erfolgt mittels energie- und ressourcenschonender Verfahren.

Mit diesem Leitgedanken konnten sich die beiden Partner in Samarkand, Usbekistan, erfolgreich auf der ITMF & IAF Conference 2024 präsentieren. Gemeinsam stellten sie dem Fachpublikum und der Jury eine vollständige textile Herstellungskette vor – vom Rohmaterial über dessen Aufbereitung, der Spinntechnologie und der Verwirklichung textiler Produkte.

Schon die Auswahl des Rohstoffs Hanf ist für die Umwelt in vieler Hinsicht vorteilhaft: Er wird in lokalem Anbau gewonnen und zeichnet sich deshalb durch einen geringen CO2-Footprint aus: Denn üblicherweise wird für die Herstellung von Zellulosefasern Holz als Ausgangsmaterial verwendet, für dessen Verarbeitung große Transportwege in Kauf genommen werden. Den Anbau von Hanf kennzeichnen ein geringer Wasserverbrauch, kaum bis gar kein Chemikalieneinsatz wegen hoher Resistenz gegenüber Pflanzenkrankheiten und vorteilhafte Eigenschaften bei der Regeneration der Böden.

Der Nutzhanf wird in einem vom RBX Créations patentierten Verfahren zu einem feinfaserigen Zellstoff (pulp) aufbereitet. Er dient als Ausgangsmaterial für ein an den DITF entwickeltes und unter dem Namen HighPerCell® geschütztes Nassspinnverfahren. Der Hanf-Pulp wird in einer sogenannten ionischen Flüssigkeit gelöst. Die Lösung wird in einem Fällbad zu Zellulosefasern ausgesponnen. Das Lösungsmittel kann vollständig zurückgewonnen und wiederverwendet werden – ein besonders nachhaltiger und umweltfreundlicher Produktionsprozess. Hanfbasierte Zellulosefasern überzeugen durch ihre mechanischen Eigenschaften, die zum Teil sogar besser sind als diejenigen von etablierten holzbasierten Faserstoffen. Damit bieten sie beste Voraussetzungen für die mechanische Weiterverarbeitung in der Strickerei und Weberei.

Der Projektpartner RBX Création hat nicht nur die Prozesse für die Rohstoffaufbereitung entwickelt, sondern steuert nach der Herstellung der Fasern deren Weiterverarbeitung: Aufgrund ihrer herausragenden Vernetzung in der Textilbranche sorgt RBX Création für die Aufbereitung der Garne und koordiniert die Aufgabenverteilung mit textilen Herstellungsbetrieben. Die Garne und textilen Materialien werden von RBX Créations unter dem Namen Iroony™ gehandelt. Textile Gewirke und Gewebe sind aus diesem Material schon hergestellt worden. Ob Bekleidung oder technische Anwendungen – die Einsatzmöglichkeiten der hanfbasierten Materialien sind breit und haben großes Entwicklungspotential.

Die Preisverleihung in Samarkand würdigt den gesamten Herstellungsprozess: Ein neues und nachhaltiges Verfahren zur Herstellung natürlicher Fasern wird in einer Firmen- und Forschungskooperation vom Anbau des Rohmaterials bis zum Endprodukt gesteuert. Die Kooperation zeigt, wie Nachhaltigkeit in der Textilherstellung zu neuen und marktfähigen Produkten führen kann.

Bcomp, a company in high-performance, natural fibre composites for the mobility-, recreational-, and mass transportation sectors, has been awarded the 2024 Altair Enlighten Award with BMW M GmbH, a renowned performance car subsidiary of BMW Group, for the BMW M Visionary Materials Seat, alongside other BMW M GmbH partners in the project. Manufactured with Bcomp’s ampliTex™ bio-based materials, the seat won in the Sustainable Process category.

The award-winning seat design re-envisions the manufacture and component materials to introduce a lighter, circular product that meets the demands of large-scale vehicle production. The seatback features a fully bio-based, high-performance natural fibre layup with ampliTex™-PP composite. By combining the structural and aesthetically pleasing visual properties of the material in one manufacturing step, production is both more efficient and dematerialised.

The accent has been on Design for Circularity, meaning that in addition to using natural and recycled materials, the BMW M Visionary Materials Seat’s recyclability has been taken into account right from the start of development. Less complex assemblies and monomaterials that can be separated by type enable the recyclability of the seat at the end of its life. Flax fibre composites are CO₂e-neutral from cradle to gate, and can reduce manufacturing-related emissions of high-performance composite parts by up to 85% compared to carbon fibre, depending on the application. Compared to current large-scale automotive plastic parts, Bcomp’s material solutions can reduce component weights by up to 50%, thanks to their low density and high stiffness.

The seat is a development project designed and engineered by long-time collaborators, BMW M GmbH and Bcomp, along with BMW Designworks, Automotive Management Consulting GmbH, Gradel Lightweight Sàrl and Lasso Ingenieurgesellschaft mbH. BMW M GmbH and Bcomp have already delivered innovations in previous development projects for high-end road cars and series application for race cars, such as interior and bodywork components for the BMW M4 GT4, bodywork for the BMW M4 DTM, and cooling shafts for the BMW iFE.20 in Formula E.

The annual Enlighten Awards are sponsored by Altair, a global leader in computational science and intelligence. They celebrate lightweighting innovations that reduce emissions, materials and energy consumption, while advancing material reuse and recyclability. The winning technologies are of significant interest to automotive engineers, manufacturers, policymakers and consumers.

Latest developments in the sustainable textile industry will be introduced and discussed at the “Cellulose Fibres Conference 2025 – New with Biosynthetics” in Cologne, Germany and online, on 12-13 March 2025. Abstract submission is now open.

In 2024, 214 participants enjoyed two conference days in Cologne or online. The highlights were 40 presentations with lively panel discussions afterwards, the innovation award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year”, an exhibition, the poster session and plenty of networking possibilities. All of this will be repeated in 2025, including new topics, new speakers and new inputs. The “Cellulose Fibres Conference 2025” will again cover the entire value chain, from lignocellulose, chemical pulp, cellulose fibres such as rayon, viscose, modal or lyocell and new developments to a wide range of applications, e.g. textiles from renewable fibres, nonwovens such as wet wipes and composites, hygiene and packaging. The conference will further address topics like circular economy, fibre-to-fibre recycling and sustainable carbon cycles, biosynthetics, new technologies and feedstocks.

Call for Abstracts
Enterprises and research institutes are invited to contribute to the program and present their innovative products, technologies or developments. Deadline for submission is 30 September 2024.
cellulose-fibres.eu/call-for-abstracts

Call for Innovations
The conference will conclude with the innovation award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation 2025” whose winner can join the ranks of amazing innovations. The deadline for innovation submissions is 30 November 2024. The innovation award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2025” is sponsored by GIG Karasek.
cellulose-fibres.eu/award-application

Call for posters
The poster exhibition is highly anticipated event at the conference. Poster submissions are open until 31 January 2025.
cellulose-fibres.eu/call-for-posters

Viola Schmidt, Studentin an der TEXOVERSUM Fakultät Textil der Hochschule Reutlingen wurde in Florenz mit dem Award „Feel the Yarn“ ausgezeichnet. Sie studiert im Masterstudiengang Design mit dem Schwerpunkt Künstlerische Konzeption an der TEXOVERSUM Fakultät Textil der Hochschule Reutlingen. Der Preis ist mit 5.000 Euro Preisgeld dotiert.

Ausgelobt wird der Preis für Fashiondesign-Studierende vom Zusammenschluss 41 italienischer Spinnereien, dem „Consorzio Promozione Filati“. In der diesjährigen 15. Auflage des Wettbewerbs überzeugte Viola Schmidt vor starken Mitbewerbenden und den Zweit- bzw. Drittplatzierten von der „London School of Fashion“ und des „Politecnico di Milano“ sowohl die internationale Fachjury als auch das ebenfalls stimmberechtigte Fachpublikum der Messe vor Ort.

Für die Umsetzung ihrer eingereichten Entwürfe bekamen insgesamt 36 Teilnehmende des Wettbewerbs hochwertigste Garne italienischer Spinnereien zugeteilt und konnten damit ihre Entwürfe Realität werden lassen. Das Thema des diesjährigen Wettbewerbs lautete „CONTRADICTIONS“ und forderte dazu auf, kreative Lösungen zu finden, um die Harmonie zwischen Technologie und Tradition zu erforschen und eine zeitgemäße Vision zu präsentieren.

Violas Schmidt setzte ihr Design „Closer Distance“ im modernen Labor für Maschentechnologie der Fakultät Textil des TEXOVERSUMS um. Sowohl die internationale Jury als auch das Publikum der Messe zeigten sich beeindruckt und überzeugt von Schmidts Design. Das in Rottönen gehaltene, gleichzeitig elegant und progressiv anmutende, aufwendig gelayerte Design spiegelt das Thema des Wettbewerbs perfekt wider und zeigt eine bemerkenswerte Symbiose aus maschineller Präzision und gestalterischer Einzigartigkeit. Besonders beachtenswert und anspruchsvoll ist zusätzlich, dass Schmidts Design „fully fashioned“ gestrickt ist. Ein nachhaltiges Vorgehen, bei dem weder Schnittkanten, noch Abfälle entstehen.

Bereits 2022 hatte Schmidt, damals noch Studentin des Bachelorstudiengangs Fashion & Textile Design, ebenfalls an der TEXOVERSUM Fakultät Textil an der Hochschule Reutlingen, den European Fashion Award – FASH gewonnen. Mit ihrem jüngsten Erfolg bei „Feel the Yarn“ setzt sie ihre Karriere fort und präsentiert gemeinsam mit anderen Fashiondesign-Graduierenden der Fakultät ihre Bachelorkollektion „Inner Garden“ im Rahmen der Neo.Fashion auf der Berlin Fashion Week.

Archroma has won awards in two categories at the Just Style 2024 Excellence Awards. It took home two coveted Innovation Excellence awards for its SUPER SYSTEMS+ solutions and AVICUERO® leather tanning process, as well as a Social Excellence award for its longstanding and holistic commitment to community engagement in Baroda, India.

The awards recognize how Archroma is driving change with innovations that advance sustainability and through initiatives that contribute to the socio-economic progress of communities near to its Baroda manufacturing plant.

Innovation Awards
Archroma was recognized for advancing sustainable manufacturing in two Just Style Excellence Awards for Innovation.

SUPER SYSTEMS+ is a comprehensive suite of solutions that addresses the textile industry's key challenges, including water consumption, greenhouse gas emissions, circularity, chemical management and compliance.

By providing end-to-end, fiber-specific solutions that enhance process efficiency and offer intelligent effects, SUPER SYSTEMS+ enables mills and brands to meet their sustainability targets as well as consumer demand for durable products with enhanced functionality and sustainability. With end-to-end solutions from pre-treatment to finishing, SUPER SYSTEMS+ can be deployed without additional investment. With future compliance in mind, the solutions also go beyond current regulations and industry standards to anticipate upcoming restrictions.

Archroma’s AVICUERO® is a system for sustainable leather tanning and dyeing. Developed in collaboration with UK-based leather technology expert Dr Leather, it is both chrome- and metal-free and yet maintains the quality and performance of traditional tanning methods. Tanners enjoy shorter processing times, eliminate the pickling process and reduce salt usage, leading to lower pollution effluent discharge loads. In addition, AVICUERO® can offer energy savings of up to 25% and CO₂ emissions reductions of up to 23% compared to traditional chrome tanning.

Social Award for Community Engagement
Archroma has also been recognized for the positive impact it is having on communities in the vicinity of Baroda through multifaceted initiatives that span early childhood development, student scholarships, agricultural education and the empowerment of women.

Archroma recently set up an Anganwadi Centre to provide a range of services in the community, including nutrition and health education and pre-school learning. It also runs a scholarship program for students in vocational training, helping to create a skilled talent pool for the region. Archroma is also collaborating with a local NGO to empower farmers with modern agricultural methods and insights.

The building of a Household Biogas Plant in Umraya village is another example of Archroma's sustainable initiatives. The conversion of manure into clean renewable energy by the plant tackles several issues, such as reducing greenhouse gas emissions and enhancing soil health. It also liberates rural women from the burden of sourcing conventional fuel sources and the health risks associated with burning dung cakes for fuel.

Vision and technology are the key ingredients of a ground-breaking school blazer that is showing how businesses can move to a circular textiles economy.  
 
While many brands are grappling with the complexities of inevitable legislation and engrained business models, leading school uniform producer, David Luke, has launched a fully recyclable ‘circular’ school blazer that is designed to be recycled through Project Re:claim, the world’s first commercial-scale polyester recycling plant.
 
Project Re:claim is a joint venture between the UK’s largest charity textile collector, The Salvation Army, and leading circularity specialists Project Plan B. The plant opened in the UK in January 2024, and presents huge opportunities for brands to transition to textile-to-textile manufacturing models.
 
David Luke’s circular blazer has been introduced to the brand’s successful Eco-uniform range which has sold over 1.7 million Eco-blazers in the last decade. Up until 2023, David Luke’s Eco-blazer, like many recycled garments, has been made from recycled plastic bottles. But the company has been working with Tim Cross, CEO of Project Plan B and the Circular Textiles Foundation, to bring the 100% recyclable blazer to market.
 
Tim Cross said: “David Luke has grasped the opportunity to embed 100% recyclable and 100% recycled garments into their range, starting with the school blazer. We now have the technology to enable their blazers to be recycled without any separation of the garment, making it an efficient recycling process. The team at David Luke has worked tirelessly with their manufacturers to create a blazer that does not compromise on design or quality, and yet is much kinder to the environment.”
 
Every detail from the lining, buttons and zips to the inter-linings and adhesives, has been re-thought and re-designed to meet the demands of an everyday school blazer and to recycle the garment once it reaches its end-of-life. Up until now, when the blazers have eventually been handed down to siblings, or given to the local charity shop, there had been no end-of-life solution for polyester garments apart from incineration. Now, Project Re:claim can recycle the blazer to produce polyester pellets, which are then spun into yarn to be used for future David Luke circular blazers.
 
Cross continues: “David Luke has the vision to create a fully circular range, and we have the potential to supply recycled content. The possibilities are infinite in terms of the future of garment design and manufacturing.”
 
Kathryn Shuttleworth, Chief Executive of David Luke, said: “It is a natural next step for us to transition to a textile-to-textile model. We have been producing garments using recycled plastic bottles for 15 years, but we have always had an eye on developments in textile recycling and solutions for end-of-life garments.”
 
In 2020, David Luke was awarded the Queen’s award for Enterprise for Sustainable Development and in January 2023 the David Luke circular blazer achieved Circular Foundation Textile certification.
 
Shuttleworth added: “Our focus will always be on those essential ingredients for parents and children - style, durability and affordability. But we have a responsibility to change our business model to better protect children’s future and the environment. It has become our obsession to make uniforms that meet our customers’ demands. We are really excited about the future as we continue to develop our range.”
 
Majonne Frost, Head of Environment and Sustainability for Salvation Army Trading Company, said: “Our vision is to enable companies to produce uniforms, corporate wear, fashion garments and textile ranges using recycled polyester.  We have the infrastructure to collect donations at scale and we now need companies to step up. This is an opportunity for companies to make a commitment to significantly reduce their environmental impact, and David Luke are showing us how that is possible.”

The “Cellulose Fibres Conference 2024” held in Cologne on 13-14 March demonstrated the innovative power of the cellulose fibre industry. Several projects and scale-ups for textiles, hygiene products, construction and packaging showed the growth and bright future of this industry, supported by the policy framework to reduce single-use plastic products, such as the Single Use Plastics Directive (SUPD) in Europe.

40 international speakers presented the latest market trends in their industry and illustrated the innovation potential of cellulose fibres. Leading experts introduced new technologies for the recycling of cellulose-rich raw materials and gave insights into circular economy practices in the fields of textiles, hygiene, construction and packaging. All presentations were followed by exciting panel discussions with active audience participation including numerous questions and comments from the audience in Cologne and online. Once again, the Cellulose Fibres Conference proved to be an excellent networking opportunity to the 214 participants and 23 exhibitors from 27 countries. The annual conference is a unique meeting point for the global cellulose fibre industry.  

For the fourth time, nova-Institute has awarded the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year” Award at the Cellulose Fibres Conference. The Innovation Award recognises applications and innovations that will lead the way in the industry’s transition to sustainable fibres. Close race between the nominees – “The Straw Flexi-Dress” by DITF & VRETENA (Germany), cellulose textile fibre from unbleached straw pulp, is the winning cellulose fibre innovation 2024, followed by HONEXT (Spain) with the “HONEXT® Board FR-B (B-s1, d0)” from fibre waste from the paper industry, while TreeToTextile (Sweden) with their “New Generation of Bio-based and Resource-efficient Fibre” won third place.

Prior to the event, the conference advisory board had nominated six remarkable innovations for the award. The nominees were neck and neck, when the winners were elected in a live vote by the audience on the first day of the conference.

First place
DITF & VRETENA (Germany): The Straw Flexi-Dress – Design Meets Sustainability
The Flexi-Dress design was inspired by the natural golden colour and silky touch of HighPerCell® (HPC) filaments based on unbleached straw pulp. These cellulose filaments are produced using environmentally friendly spinning technology in a closed-loop production process. The design decisions focused on the emotional connection and attachment to the HPC material to create a local and circular fashion product. The Flexi-Dress is designed as a versatile knitted garment – from work to street – that can be worn as a dress, but can also be split into two pieces – used separately as a top and a straight skirt. The top can also be worn with the V-neck front or back. The HPC textile knit structure was considered important for comfort and emotional properties.

Second place
Honext Material (Spain): HONEXT® Board FR-B (B-s1, d0) – Flame-retardant Board made From Upcycled Fibre Waste From the Paper Industry
HONEXT® FR-B board (B-s1, d0) is a flame-retardant board made from 100 % upcycled industrial waste fibres from the paper industry. Thanks to innovations in biotechnology, paper sludge is upcycled – the previously “worthless” residue from paper making – to create a fully recyclable material, all without the use of resins. This lightweight and easy-to-handle board boasts high mechanical performance and stability, along with low thermal conductivity, making it perfect for various applications in all interior environments where fire safety is a priority. The material is non-toxic, with no added VOCs, ensuring safety for both people and the planet. A sustainable and healthy material for the built environment, it achieves Cradle-to-Cradle Certified GOLD, and Material Health CertificateTM Gold Level version 4.0 with a carbon-negative footprint. Additionally, the product is verified in the Product Environmental Footprint.

Third Place
TreeToTextile (Sweden): A New Generation of Bio-based and Resource-efficient Fibre
TreeToTextile has developed a unique, sustainable and resource efficient fibre that doesn’t exist on the market today. It has a natural dry feel similar to cotton and a semi-dull sheen and high drape like viscose. It is based on cellulose and has the potential to complement or replace cotton, viscose and polyester as a single fibre or in blends, depending on the application.
TreeToTextile Technology™ has a low demand for chemicals, energy and water. According to a third party verified LCA, the TreeToTextile fibre has a climate impact of 0.6 kg CO2 eq/kilo fibre. The fibre is made from bio-based and traceable resources and is biodegradable.

The next conference will be held on 12-13 March 2025.

Archroma Pakistan has been named a winner in the Pakistan Stock Exchange (PSX) Top 25 Companies Awards for 2022.

The award was presented by the Prime Minister of Pakistan, Mr. Anwaar-ul-Haq Kakar, to Archroma Pakistan CEO, Mr. Mujtaba Rahim, before an audience of dignitaries, government officials and the business community.

The PSX Top 25 Companies Awards recognizes meticulous financial management and regulatory compliance, as well as excellence in environmental, social and governance (ESG) performance, diversity and inclusion, and corporate governance. It is among the highest accolades offered in the Pakistan business community.

Earlier in the year, Archroma Pakistan was recognized in the PSX in the Best Corporate Report Awards 2022, winning a Certificate of Merit for the third time.

Carbios and L’Oréal have won the “Pioneer Awards” in the Industry category, presented by the Solar Impulse Foundation at the first World Alliance Summit. This prize was awarded to Carbios for its enzymatic PET recycling solution, labeled “Efficient Solution” by the Solar Impulse Foundation since 2019, and to L’Oréal for using this technology for the first time in a cosmetics bottle prototype. Carbios’ solution offers brands an alternative to petro-sourced plastic that helps them meet their sustainability commitments. This advancement paves the way for future applications in other sectors such as packaging, food and beverage, and textiles.

Carbios and L’Oréal: a long-term collaboration
Since 2017, Carbios and L’Oréal have been working together with a shared vision of accelerating the transition to a circular economy for plastic. In 2017, both companies created a Consortium to improve the recyclability and circularity of PET packaging.  Nestlé Waters, PepsiCo and Suntory Beverage & Food Europe joined this Consortium in 2019 to scale up Carbios’ innovation. The world’s first enzymatically recycled PET packaging was made in 2021 using Carbios’ biorecycling process. The world’s first PET biorecycling plant is scheduled to be commissioned in 2025. In parallel, Carbios is rolling out its technology internationally through licensing agreements.

The environmental benefits of biorecycling developed by Carbios
Recent life-cycle analyses^[1] show a 57% reduction in CO₂ emissions compared with the production of virgin plastic^[2], and for every tonne of recycled PET produced, 1.3 tonnes of petrol are avoided. Compared with conventional recycling, enzymatic recycling is 4 times more circular (calculated according to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Material Circularity Indicator). Thanks to its highly selective enzyme, optimized for efficient PET degradation, Carbios’ depolymerization process can process all types of PET waste, including colored, multilayer or textile waste that cannot be recycled using current technologies. Furthermore, the two monomers produced (PTA and MEG) make it possible to recreate recycled PET products of identical quality to virgin ones, and suitable for food contact.
 
 
^[1] Database ecoinvent 3.8
^[2] French scenario, taking into account the detour of 50% of PET waste from conventional end-of-life. Virgin PET: 2.53 kg CO₂/kg (cradle to gate)