From the Sector

A much more sustainable, cost effective and very flexible process for manufacturing critical fibres based on ultra high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) is being launched by the UK’s Fibre Extrusion Technologies (FET).

UHMWPE is prized in many industries due to its extraordinary properties. The fibre is, for example, ten times stronger than steel by weight, while exhibiting outstanding abrasion resistance, low friction and high impact strength. UHMWPE fibres are also chemically inert, resistant to most chemicals and UV light and do not absorb water. They maintain performance in a wide range of temperatures and despite their toughness are extremely lightweight.

As a result, they are unbeatable in demanding applications such as high-performance ropes in maritime industrial and rescue applications. In addition, they are invaluable in ballistic protection, cut-resistant clothing and high-performance sports gear – and increasingly in medical implants.

Biomedical market
“FET has supplied many extrusion systems to the biomedical market, most notably for the production of both resorbable and non-absorbable sutures,” says FET Managing Director Richard Slack. “In exploring what else we could do in assisting these customers, it became clear that there was a need for smaller quantities of UHMWPE fibres in bespoke sizes.”

“The current systems for manufacturing UHMWPE filament yarns are on a huge scale, with very complex processing routes,” adds Research and Development Manager Jonny Hunter. “This means the supply chain is currently very inflexible with minimal opportunity for new product development. These disadvantages have been fully addressed in the development of our new FET-500 series lab and small scale gel spinning system.”

Solvent extraction
A major FET innovation is the introduction of a patented batch system for solvent extraction exploiting supercritical carbon dioxide (CO2).

UHMWPE production, until now, has involved the use of large volumes of hazardous solvents such as dichloromethane (DCM) or hexane. The UHMWPE powder is mixed with mineral oil to form a gel which is subsequently extruded, cooled and solidified. The oil is then extracted from the fibres using DCM or hexane and the solid fibres are then drawn at high temperature to further align the polymer chains, resulting in final strong and tough fibres. Typically, it takes 10 kg of Hexane to extract 1 kg of oil. 

“Solvent reclamation using extraction baths and hot air drying chambers is not practical for the scale of our system,” explains FET’s Senior Material and Process Scientist Kris Kortsen. “The current baths employed can be up to 200 metres long and the waste volumes are considerable. Expertise is needed in dealing with such dangerous chemicals and overall the process has an immense environmental impact.

“CO2, by contrast, is a cheap and abundant sustainable solvent that is non-toxic, non-flammable and leaves no residue.” 

Closed loop
FET’s closed-loop system can achieve more than 95% solvent recovery without loss of performance, resulting in residue-free UHMWPE filament yarns via a vastly improved route in terms of both safety and logistics.

A further innovation is the highly modular drawing system based on heated godet rollers, enabling flexible temperature and drawing control for new product development and the ability to be expanded at any time to meet customer needs.

A comprehensive LCA study detailing the full savings potential is currently being prepared and will be published shortly.

“Having processed over 130 separate polymers in the development of our extrusion systems, we believe the FET-500 is a game changer,” concludes Richard Slack. “We believe there is a big gap in the market for smaller quantities of UHMWPE, and our first line is now fully operational at the FET Fibre Development Centre in Leeds. We look forward to demonstrating it and discussing its full potential with interested companies from around the world.”

Rieter has signed a definitive agreement to acquire Barmag from OC Oerlikon for an upfront equity purchase price of CHF 713 million. The acquisition will create a globally leading player in natural and manmade fibers, headquartered in Winterthur, Switzerland, and is highly complementary to Rieter’s short-staple fiber business.

Barmag is a provider of filament spinning systems used for manufacturing manmade fibers, texturing machines, BCF1) systems, staple fiber spinning and nonwovens solutions and – as an engineering services provider – offers solutions along the textile value chain. In the financial year 2024, the company generated sales of CHF 734 million with around 2 600 employees.

Barmag comprises the established product brands Oerlikon Barmag, Oerlikon Neumag and Oerlikon Nonwoven. The main markets for the Barmag product portfolio are China, India, Türkiye and the United States of America. The innovative and technologically advanced products are developed in Remscheid and Neumünster (Germany) as well as Suzhou and Wuxi (China).

As fiber consumption is projected to rise, most of the growth is expected to come from manmade fibers. The increase of natural fibers such as cotton and linen is limited due to natural boundaries. Manmade fibers will help to meet expanding demand for clothing, technical and home textiles. The strategic acquisition of Barmag will transform Rieter into a leading supplier for converting natural and manmade fibers into yarn.

The transaction is fully in-line with Rieter’s strategy and follows previous acquisitions, where Rieter complemented its portfolio in short-staple fiber machinery and expanded its footprint in components and machinery for manmade fiber production. The combined platform allows to leverage the recovery of global filament and short staple fiber spinning markets and to reduce cyclicality due to diversification of end-markets. The acquisition will further enhance Rieter’s position in the important Asia-Pacific region and provide access to Barmag’s filament expertise, which will help to further scale Rieter’s own capabilities and improve digitization solutions and product sustainability.

Rieter’s largest shareholder, Peter Spuhler (c. 33% shareholding) is supportive of the transaction and committed to participating in the rights-issue pro-rata by exercising its subscription rights as well as investing additional capital through the non-pre-emptive capital raise. After the capital increase, PCS Holding AG is expected to retain a shareholding of c. 33%.

Additionally, Rieter’s second-largest shareholder, Martin Haefner (c. 10%), also supports the transaction and has committed to participating pro-rata in the rights-issue by exercising its subscription rights and investing additional capital through the non-pre-emptive capital raise.

With a clear focus on sustainability, Barmag, a subsidiary of the Swiss Oerlikon Group, is presenting comprehensive solutions from its product brands Oerlikon Barmag and Oerlikon Neumag for DTY and carpet yarn production at the Morocco Stitch & Tex Expo in Casablanca. From May 13 to 15, trade visitors can talk to experts from Barmag and the joint venture BB Engineering (BBE) at the Unionmatex booth (booth B4) to get an idea of the portfolio of the chemical fiber machine manufacturer.

Sustainable and efficient – the production of DTY yarns
Oerlikon Barmag offers a wide range of DTY machine configurations for the efficient and sustainable production of high-quality textured yarns made of various polymers – from polyester and polyamide to polypropylene, PLA and PTT. The modular machines – whether manual or automatic – produce yarns for excellent downstream processing at optimal OPEX costs.

Fancy yarns increasingly in demand
The demand for textiles with special characteristics is continuously increasing. For the production of these effect yarns, such as cotton-like DTY, linen-like DTY or wool-like DTY, Oerlikon Barmag offers a variety of processes and additional components. With its high-quality and flexible technology as well as its detailed knowledge of the yarn path and the required parameter settings, Oerlikon Barmag is the ideal partner for the successful and flexible production as well as the continuous further development of these specialty yarns.

Extended product range for carpet yarns
Thanks to its comprehensive knowledge of all relevant technologies in manmade fiber spinning, Oerlikon Barmag is the only manufacturer worldwide that can expand its range for the production of carpet yarns. The system concept, based on a POY and texturing process, is designed for the carpet and home textile sector and produces particularly soft and bulky polyester threads with BCF-like properties. The aim is to produce yarns with a titer of up to 1300dtex and over 1000 filaments, such as 1300dtex f1152, 660dtex f1152 and 990dtex f768. The machine concept includes the well-known WINGS HD POY winder and the eAFK Big-V texturing machine.

Innovative bicomponent BCF yarn for the carpet market
Quality, efficiency and performance – with its latest development in the field of bicomponent yarns for carpet production, Barmag's product brand Oerlikon Neumag is meeting the carpet market's demand for innovative BCF yarns. The new BICO-BCF yarn is characterized by a richer and higher volume and simultaneously significantly reduces the raw material consumption during carpet manufacturing.

VarioFil® – versatile compact spinning system for diverse applications and specialties
The VarioFil® system from BBE is ideal for a broad range of products, whether it be carpets, upholstery fabrics, fashion, sports, seat belts or airbags. This compact turnkey spinning line is particularly suitable for producers of small batches or specialized products. It flexibly processes various polymers such as PET, PP, PA 6, PA 6.6 and PBT. In combination with Oerlikon Barmag texturing machines, a wide range of textile standard yarns as well as textured yarns with BCF-like properties can be produced.

The VarioFil® R+ enables the direct recycling and processing of PET bottle flakes and PET waste from the start-up process into POY. This sustainable machine concept offers a high degree of product flexibility, including the production of spun-dyed yarn.

JeTex® air texturing offers a versatile product portfolio
BB Engineering also offers flexible solutions for the subsequent texturing of yarns. The JeTex® air texturing system perfectly complements the Oerlikon Barmag DTY systems and expands the product portfolio to include high-quality ATY based on POY and FDY for various textile applications. The centerpiece of the system is the texturing box developed by BB Engineering, which ensures gentle yarn treatment with reliable texturing effects and production efficiency.

“From waste to value” with VacuFil and Visco
BBE's VacuFil PET recycling system transforms textile waste into high-quality rPET melt. The technology is based on decades of experience in extrusion, filtration and spinning and combines gentle large-area filtration with targeted IV control. VacuFil processes various input materials, from bottle flakes to production waste and post-consumer waste. The patented Visco+ component removes volatile contaminants and automatically regulates the IV. The recycled melt can be added to the main melt stream, pelletized into chips or fed directly back into the spinning mill. The VacuFil system is modular and flexibly adaptable to customer needs.

The next-generation card TC 30i has earned popularity in main textile markets by achieving proven results in real-world operating conditions – for cotton yarn and for man-made fibers. It is suitable for a uniquely broad range of applications, including fine count (with the TC 30Fi model) and recycling (with the TC 30Ri model). All orders from the last few months are now being installed, so that the TC 30i can demonstrate ist positive impact on productivity and quality at many more mills worldwide

The TC 30i is designed to maximize process efficiency and product quality for spinning. Due to its intelligent, self-optimizing functions it achieves consistent results from any raw material while reducing or eliminating the demand for operator intervention. The machine has already proven up to 40 % higher productivity in man-made fiber applications. In recent trials with cotton applications, customers in Indonesia and Türkiye have achieved outstanding results, too.

The T-GO automated gap optimizer improves quality by enabling the smallest and most precise carding gaps – far beyond anything possible with manual settings. Second, the TC 30i maximizes quality and productivity by increasing the number of active flats without sacrificing flexibility in the pre- and post-carding areas due to the larger cylinder diameter. And third, the TC 30i minimizes cotton waste because it features a new and highly precise mote knife at the first licker-in. Customers can automatically optimize and adjust the mote knife settings to meet their specific needs. Combined with the impact of our WASTECONTROL feature, this significantly reduces material waste.

Big benefits for Budi Texindo Prakarsa
Budi Texindo Prakarsa is a leading spinning mill based in Indonesia, specialized in the production of premium cotton yarn with an annual capacity of 80,000 spindles. In their recent trials with the TC 30i, they produced 100 % cotton yarn (Ne 20 to Ne 30) via ring-combed processes. Compared to the previous benchmark, productivity increased by up to 30 % with the same IPI quality level. At the same time, energy and air consumption per kilogram have been reduced.

Measurable advantages for Mem Tekstil
In Türkiye, Mem Tekstil is one of the largest integrated manufactures in the textile sector. Their products range from knitting, dyeing, rotation and digital printing to ring spinning, open-end spinning and vortex spinning. With Trützschler's TC 30i they produced a yarn (Ne 20) made from 100 % cotton soft waste via open-end (OE) spinning. Its engineers tested the TC 30i because they are considering upgrading older card models from a Swiss competitor. Our machine has increased productivity from 70 kilograms per hour to 160 kilograms per hour with the same or better quality. This shows once again that modernization can be worthwhile.

Super results for SAFTEKS
SAFTEKS is another Trützschler customer located in Türkiye. The company produces cotton yarns with a monthly production capacity of 2100 tons. It uses OE spinning to manufacture 100 % cotton yarn (Ne 20) from 40 % virgin cotton and 60 % cotton soft waste. Swapping its cards for the TC 30i made it possible for SAFTEKS to increase its output capacity from 70 tons per day to 85 tons per day. That is a productivity boost of more than 20 %, with the same level of quality.

Promising results for PT Dhanar Mas Concern in man-made fiber applications
PT Dhanar Mas Concern (Danar Mas) is an Indonesian company dedicated to the production of high-quality textile products. The company specializes in spinning yarns and manufacturing greige fabrics. They use our TC 30Si card, which is specially customized for man-made fibers. In recent trials with the TC 30Si, Danar Mas produced a ring carded polyester yarn (Ne 20 to Ne 30) and a viscose yarn (Ne 30 to Ne 40) via vortex spinning. In both applications, the next-generation card produced 125 kg/h of material at the same IPI quality level, up to 40 % more than the company produces with its current benchmark.

Uster FiberQ automated raw material management generated more than 2,000 laydowns in a year for Sagar, one of India’s leading spinners. The results delivered consistent yarn quality and optimized process efficiency – giving a payback period of three months.

Sagar is taking advantage of the new annual subscription format, which includes the software solution plus valuable advisory services from Uster expert technologists.

After one year using FiberQ, A.K. Saini, Chief General Manager Operations at Sagar Manufacturers Pvt. Ltd., reported: “We have seen better fiber utilization, significantly improved yarn quality consistency and elimination of seldom-occurring faults such as white specks and barré. The overall outstanding results convinced our management about the value of FiberQ and we confirmed the renewal of the subscription services of FiberQ and the 360Q platform.”

Sagar insists on consistently high standards in yarn quality and performance. The company wanted to go even further, by optimizing its manufacturing operations and achieving maximum fiber yield.

Sagar Manufacturers Pvt. is renowned for excellence, in both its home country of India and the global textile marketplace, as a producer and supplier of top-class cotton yarns and knitted greige fabric. Saini says: “Our strategic focus is on integrating advanced technology and eco-friendly practices, for creative solutions which drive excellence in manufacturing performance and ensure customer satisfaction.”

Before FiberQ, the company was already proud of the excellent raw material management processes in its spinning operation. It was a determination to improve still further in both production efficiency and consistent quality which led to the decision to implement the Uster FiberQ raw material management solution.

Sagar has always embraced new technologies – especially those focused on innovation and automation – and it was naturally one of the first adopters of the FiberQ raw material management solution. FiberQ combines advanced technology and textile expertise to automate many tasks previously done manually. So it became a very interesting value proposition for progressive spinners like Sagar. The automated, intelligent, reliable and easy-to-use system minimized manual efforts but also provided consistent results. Uster’s end-to-end solution also offers access to continuous improvements such as supplier statistics and fiber-to-yarn correlation, which will add even more value in future.

Impact on production
Sagar figures show that yarn realization has increased by 0.3% to 0.5% on average and it has eliminated the need for ‘cut and creel’ – a big advantage in terms of efficiency and fewer changes in production. During the year, FiberQ generated more than 2,000 laydowns for all production units in a very efficient, fast and easy way. Another plus was the easily accessible laydown history and the visibility of the impact of different cotton lots in use.

Customer feedback has also been strong. Sagar’s improved quality consistency was said to have resulted in better fabric appearance. And since Sagar can now provide customers with bigger yarn lot sizes with the same quality and color properties, they can produce larger, uniform batches of knitted and dyed fabrics and save manufacturing costs.

Advisory service benefits
FiberQ is not only a software solution. It comes with advisory services from expert Uster textile technologists. The FiberQ advisory services ensure there is always a textile engineer with mill experience and deep knowledge available to support the spinners. As well as taking care of all aspects of installation, there are periodic assessments to track quality status from fiber to yarn, which is a unique competence of Uster and a highly appreciated element of the service.

FiberQ is offered as a yearly subscription service. For the industry, the idea of subscribing to a software service for raw material management is quite new, although it has been established for many years in other fields.

The Chinese Junma Group has expanded its HMLS capacities by 20 positions, hence becoming one of the largest tire cord manufacturers in China. At present, the company has 64 positions of HMLS systems from Oerlikon Barmag.

Junma processes the tire yarn produced in the titer range of 1100 dtex to 2200 dtex in-house into tire cord using the downstream processes of dipping and weaving. The largest HMLS single project for Junma and Oerlikon Barmag to date was put into operation in record time. After just two weeks, the various yarn specifications were approved.

High-end HMLS technology for the international tire market
Junma supplies its end products to renowned international tire manufacturers and sees definite growth potential in this segment of the automotive industry. “This year, we opened our first branches outside of China. And for the coming year, we are planning our first production facility in Thailand,” says Wang Hongbin. In doing so, Junma continues to rely on the expertise of Oerlikon Barmag. The HMLS process from Oerlikon Barmag scores particularly highly with production speeds of up to 6300 m/min, at which the core components of high-speed godets and winders demonstrate their reliability.

ARISE IIP, the pan-African developer and operator of world-class industrial parks, has partnered with African Export-Import Bank (Afreximbank) and Rieter, the supplier of systems for manufacturing yarn from staple fibers in spinning mills. The unprecedented partnership will spearhead the “Africa Textile Renaissance Plan” – a transformative initiative aimed at revitalizing the continent’s textile sector. This ambitious project will leverage ARISE’s extensive network of industrial parks to support a new era of textile manufacturing in Africa.

In order to facilitate the implementation of the Africa Textile Renaissance Plan, Afreximbank, Arise IIP and Rieter AG signed a framework agreement on October 14, 2024. The framework agreement outlines the collaboration to establish 500 000 metric tons of African cotton transformation capacity over the next three to five years, supported by USD 5 billion in financing.

The Africa Textile Renaissance Plan aims to achieve the following key objectives:

• establish 500 000 metric tons of African cotton transformation capacity over the next three to five years, with potential expansion of an additional 500 000 metric tons,
• localize machine repair expertise in Africa,
• create up to 500 000 jobs,
• reduce Africa’s annual textile imports,
• boost exports to the US under the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA), focusing on full value addition within the continent and to export to the rest of the world and
• develop a strong financing structure to support capacity building.

Countries benefiting from the program will be selected based on criteria such as power and gas availability, and textile parks with standard infrastructure or equity contribution. Training centers will be established in selected countries to develop and improve skill levels.

The partnership aims to secure financing of textile projects, streamlining the process through:

• standardized loan documentation and security packages,
• expedited two-month application process and
• standardized business plan templates.

To foster long-term growth, Rieter has committed to gradually establishing a manufacturing presence in Africa subject to commercial viability, including the:

• setup of a repair and maintenance facility in ARISE’s industrial park in Benin,
• establishment of spare parts warehousing and
• phased introduction of machine assembly operations.

Gagan Gupta, CEO and Founder of ARISE IIP expressed his enthusiasm for the project: “The Africa Textile Renaissance Plan represents a significant milestone in the continent’s industrial development. I’m convinced that this initiative will not only boost local manufacturing and create thousands of jobs but also position Africa as a global leader in sustainable textile production.”

Prof. Benedict Oramah, President and Chairman of the Board of Directors of Afreximbank, stated that the Africa Textile Renaissance Plan is a “game-changer” for African trade. He remarked: “By transforming Africa’s cotton into high-value textile products, we are not only driving industrialization but also reducing dependence on imports while building a competitive export base. This partnership complements our ongoing efforts, such as the transformative change we are spearheading in Africa’s Cotton-4 plus (C4+) countries, alongside other partners. It underscores Afreximbank’s unwavering commitment to industrialization and export development.”

Thomas Oetterli, CEO Rieter Group, said: “We are thrilled to support this important initiative with our commitment, expertise and consulting knowledge. We are convinced that the Africa Textile Renaissance Plan marks an important starting point for the future development of the textile industry in Africa.”

This year's ITMA Asia + CITME 2024 trade fair appearance of the Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions Division between 14 and 18 October 2024 will once again focus on current challenges for the global textile machinery industry: the replacement of old systems with energy-efficient and sustainable technology solutions, the use of digital software and hardware solutions to increase productivity and ensure material quality, and the traceability of all products to enable the recycling of the raw materials used in a future-oriented circular economy.

Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions offers complete solutions ranging from extrusion and polycondensation systems to texturized yarn, accompanied by automation and digital solutions. The supply of all process steps from a single source ensures a coordinated technology that guarantees the high quality of the fibers and yarns produced. The entire product portfolio of the supplier of machines and systems primarily to produce polyester, polypropylene and nylon will therefore take centre stage at this year's trade fair.

“The Chinese market continues to have enormous potential for us, even if it has not been able to match the previous times in terms of large new installations of manmade fiber plants and the associated expansion of production capacity for good two years. However, there is still a great need for renewal, especially in terms of sustainability. Shutting down old plants and replacing them with new, modern and energy-efficient technologies is the path to a better and lower-emission future for us all,” explains André Wissenberg, Head of Marketing, Corporate Communications and Public Affairs. “We have been contributing to sustainability with our technology solutions for decades. Be it by increasing energy efficiency with each new generation of machines or by processing new materials,” Wissenberg continues. Oerlikon is proud of the fact that the company has been offering solutions for the textile industry under the e-save sustainability label for 20 years and has saved over 15 million tons of CO2 thanks to the machines and systems developed and installed on the market during this time.

The Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions Division of the Swiss Oerlikon Group is expanding its customer services and spare parts business in the area of machines and systems for the production of carpet yarns (BCF) and industrial yarns (IDY). To this end, the company concluded an agreement with the Truetzschler Group, based in Moenchengladbach, Germany, in August. Technology experts and service staff from Oerlikon Neumag are now the new contacts for customer services and the spare parts business for Truetzschler's BCF and IDY technologies installed in the market. The Moenchengladbach-based textile machinery manufacturer is withdrawing from this business segment in order to concentrate on the spinning, card clothing and nonwovens businesses in future.

Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions offers complete solutions for the manmade fiber industry. They range from extrusion and polycondensation plants to texturized yarn, and are accompanied by automation and digital solutions. The supply of all process steps from a single source ensures a harmonized technology that guarantees high quality of the yarns produced.

Based in Neumuenster, Germany, Oerlikon Neumag, a branch of Oerlikon Textile GmbH & Co. KG and a brand of the Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions Division, has been an established and broadly positioned international supplier with proven expertise in the field of BCF for decades. The division's sister company Oerlikon Barmag from Remscheid, Germany, contributes its expertise in the field of IDY systems.

Lohia Corp Limited (LCL) announced two milestones that mark their expansion in the global market.

The company has acquired J.J. Jenkins Inc., specialized in machine manufacturing for high-tech industries, through their US subsidiary, Leesona Corp, a pioneer in winding machines. This acquisition aligns with their strategic vision to expand their specialty yarns and tapes portfolio in medical and defence applications.

In addition, LCL has formed a strategic Joint Venture with Italy's O.M.G.M. sas, leading to the creation of OMGM Extrusiontechnik Srl. With LCL holding the majority stake. This JV represents a diversification of their product portfolio, introducing solutions in Extrusion and Winding systems for a variety of technical applications.