From the Sector

Dibella is again increasing the use of Cotton made in Africa cotton according to the mass balance system. In 2025, the company will purchase 825 tons of raw fibres. This corresponds to an increase of 10% compared to the previous year.

Dibella has been implementing Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) cotton in its supply chain in accordance with the mass balance system since 2017, thereby supporting socially and ecologically sustainable cotton production in Africa. With this further increase, Dibella is fulfilling its corporate goal of “increasing the use of sustainable fibers”.

The mass balance system allows the raw cotton to be easily implemented in the production process at Dibella's suppliers, while at the same time having a high impact on African cotton farmers. The license costs incurred are borne by Dibella and are not passed on to customers. In this way, Dibella aims to raise awareness for more sustainable raw fiber production, away from cost discussions.

Cotton made in Africa cotton causes up to 13% less greenhouse gas emissions compared to the global average. No artificial irrigation is used during cultivation. This not only saves drinking water, but also protects valuable water resources in regions that are often affected by water shortages. Not using genetically modified seeds protects natural biodiversity. This specific example shows just how much the cotton farmers benefit: In Côte d'Ivoire, the income of farming families from the sale of CmiA cotton increased by almost 18 percent between 2015 and 2020, according to an independent study* commissioned to assess CmiA's activities and their impact.

Autoneum expands its sustainable product portfolio for commercial vehicles with new polyester-based side and rear wall panels. Their carrier material consists of Propylat PET, the company’s eco-friendly and fully recyclable Pure technology made of 100 percent polyester. Autoneum’s components thus offer a significantly more sustainable alternative to the composite or thermoset resin panels commonly used in trucks today, which are difficult to recycle. Thanks to the unique material composition of Propylat PET, they contribute to optimized acoustic and thermal management.

With the establishment of a dedicated Business Unit Commercial Vehicles at the beginning of 2024, Autoneum has set the course for further sustainable and profitable growth in this market segment on a global scale. Manufacturers of medium and heavy trucks as well as agricultural vehicles thus benefit not only from Autoneum’s existing production footprint and comprehensive product and technology portfolio, but also from the Company’s longstanding experience in the development and manufacturing of environmentally friendly monomaterials. Components such as the new polyester-based side and rear wall panels support customers in improving the environmental performance of commercial vehicles and are therefore an important step towards a circular economy also in this vehicle segment.

The carrier material of Autoneum’s sustainable trim components consists of 100 percent polyester. Thanks to the high content of recycled fibers and the excellent end-of-life recyclability of Propylat PET, the side and rear wall panels from Autoneum are considerably more environmentally friendly than the composite or thermoset resin alternatives commonly used in trucks today. Furthermore, additional components can be welded onto the material without the use of adhesives or other chemicals, which further increases the products’ recyclability at the end of their service life. Due to the unique material composition of Propylat PET, the components also improve the acoustic and thermal insulation of the vehicle interior and are characterized by minimal emission of volatile organic compounds as well as low odor. In addition, Autoneum continues to invest in the develop-ment of monomaterial components for commercial vehicles, where both the carrier material and the aesthetic surface are made entirely of polyester, thus further advancing the transition to a sustaina-ble circular economy.

The Lenzing Group, a leading supplier of regenerated cellulose fibers for the textile and nonwovens industries, announces a significant milestone in its partnership with C.P.L. Prodotti Chimici srl, a renowned supplier of chemical products for the textile industry. LENZING™ Acetic Acid Biobased, a by-product of pulp production, is at the center of this collaboration. Oniverse, which also owns the renowned fashion brand Calzedonia, will use LENZING™ Acetic Acid Biobased for dyeing textiles in the future.

Lenzing has always developed solutions together with partners to meet the industry's requirements for a circular economy. The strategic partnerships with C.P.L., the first licensing partner for LENZING™ Acetic Acid Biobased, and Oniverse underline the trust of customers in Lenzing's biorefinery products. In addition, Lenzing enables improved visibility of its own products for partners and customers through co-branding, whether in the textile and nonwovens sector or in the biorefinery product portfolio.

The biorefinery process at Lenzing makes optimal use of the renewable raw material wood, the starting material for pulp and fiber production, and converts it into valuable products such as bio-based acetic acid. LENZING™ Acetic Acid Biobased, which has a carbon footprint that is more than 85 percent lower than fossil-based acetic acid, is used in the food, pharmaceutical, cosmetics, chemical and textile industries and in processes in the textile sector, such as washing, dyeing and finishing.

This year, Eastman and its innovative Naia™ cellulosic fibers have earned again the dark green shirt designation in the Canopy Hot Button Ranking and Report, underscoring the steadfast commitment to protecting ancient and endangered forests while driving innovation in Next Generation fiber solutions.

With “buttons” being used in the report as a measure of MMCF producers sustainability performance across seven critical categories, Eastman maintained a score of 30 buttons for the sustainable production of Naia™ cellulosic fibers. This recognition has been consistently reconfirmed since 2022, after Eastman’s first light green designation in 2019, reflecting their ongoing efforts to prioritize sustainable raw material sourcing, low-impact production processes, and fiber innovation that comes with a lighter impact on the planet.
The Naia™ Renew portfolio, including the Naia™ Renew ES, has also been a cornerstone of this success. Already available at scale, Naia™ Renew ES is created from a blend of 40% certified recycled waste materials, 20% certified recycled cellulose, and 40% sustainably sourced wood pulp. This innovative fiber has become a preferred choice for sustainability-driven brands like Reformation which has already launched its 2nd collection and is gaining increasing traction in retail markets worldwide.

By investing in cutting-edge technologies and industry collaboration, Eastman is redefining what is possible in sustainable fiber innovation. The company remains committed to advancing its mission of creating high-quality, eco-conscious solutions that support the well-being of the planet, industry workers, and consumers alike.

International technology group ANDRITZ has received an engineering order from US textile recycling innovator Circ in anticipation of its first large-scale textile recycling plant. The plant will be the first to recover cotton and polyester from blended textile waste.

Circ® is a pioneering company focused on sustainable solutions for the fashion industry. By converting fashion waste into reusable raw materials for fabrics, Circ reduces the need for petroleum and natural resources. The company’s mission is to build a truly circular economy to protect the planet from the cost of clothing.

ANDRITZ has been successfully conducting trials for Circ at the ANDRITZ Fiber R&D Center in Springfield, Ohio, USA, for several years. The successful partnership and recent developments have led to the decision to expand this cooperation.

The majority of fashion waste consists of polyester-cotton blends, which poses a significant challenge to achieving greater circularity. In particular, the separation of cellulosic and synthetic fibers from textile waste has been a major obstacle. Circ’s innovative recycling process can break down polycotton textile waste into its original components – polyester and cotton. The forthcoming plant will process 200 tons of textile waste per day, allowing cotton to be recycled for lyocell production and polyester to be reused for polyester production. This will reduce the need for virgin raw materials.

Conor Hartman, Chief Operating Officer at Circ, says: “We remain excited about this continued collaboration with ANDRITZ. Together, we will commercialize Circ’s innovative recycling process and take another step towards a truly circular fashion industry. With its expertise in engineering and building large-scale process equipment, ANDRITZ is the right partner to help us transform textile waste into recycled fibers on an industrial level.

Michael Waupotitsch, Vice President Textile Recycling at ANDRITZ, comments: “We are eager to support Circ in their vision of circularity because the technology they have developed is uniquely suited to solve one of the biggest challenges in fashion waste and recycling. With our holistic knowledge in resizing, mechanical separation, hydrothermal processing, recovery of cellulosic pulp as well as pulp cleaning and pulp drying, we have the right expertise to help them achieve their goals. Our experience in process development and machinery will help bring their innovative recycling technology to life.”

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited (IVL), a global sustainable chemical producer, posted a marked improvement in quarterly performance as the chemical industry struggles to recover from a prolonged downturn and the company’s management executes their 3 year IVL 2.0 strategy to enhance competitiveness and drive efficiencies.

Indorama Ventures reported Adjusted EBITDA  of $427 million in 3Q24, a gain of 32% YoY, supported by steady volumes, improving industry spreads, and the company’s unstinting focus on optimizing assets and reducing fixed costs. The quarter marks Indorama Ventures’ first YOY improvement for the year, with all three business segments recording earnings growth, following a prolonged industry downcycle marked by customer destocking and suppressed margins. Volumes remained steady for the Combined PET and Fibers segments, while Indovinya posted a robust performance amid a peak season in the Crop Solutions market.

Fibers reported Adjusted EBITDA of $48 million, a gain of 44% YoY, driven by improved industry spreads in Lifestyle and higher volumes in Mobility and Hygiene. Management is focused on reducing fixed costs and improving profitability across the entire portfolio and taking firm action to restore market share in key verticals.

Looking ahead, the global economic outlook remains uncertain amid continued inflation, geopolitical tension, and supply chain disruptions. However, throughout the downcycle, Indorama Ventures’ experienced management team has worked hard to optimize and deleverage the business under their IVL 2.0 evolved strategy to emerge stronger and drive enhanced earnings quality in a new era of sustainable profit growth. In 3Q24, this unrelenting focus delivered fixed-cost savings of $19 million, which will sequentially increase into next year as the benefits are fully realized. Operating rates for the group increased to 82% in the quarter—from 69% previously—as the company completed its planned optimization program for CPET and Indovinya, with Fibers under implementation.

The company’s digital transformation program is accelerating according to schedule following the implementation of the SAP S/4HANA ERP platform as a digital core. North America is already benefiting from an AI-based procurement solution, while the Connected Worker Platform is driving manufacturing excellence. The first sales and supply chain solutions are expected to go-live early next year.

Weak demand in some of their customer markets is increasingly hindering SGL Carbon's sales growth. After nine months in 2024, SGL Carbon generated sales of €781.9 million, which was slightly below the prior-year level at minus 4.8% (9M 2023: €821.7 million). Adjusted for currency and structural effects, Group sales decreased by 3.6%. Adjusted EBITDA, an important key figure for the Group, remained at a comparable level of €127.6 million in the reporting period (9M 2023: €130.0 million). Despite the slight decrease in sales, the adjusted EBITDA margin improved from 15.4% in Q1 and 16.7% in Q2 to 16.9% in Q3 and amounted to 16.3% after nine months (9M 2023: 15.8%). The reasons for the improved adjusted EBITDA margin are, in particular, product mix effects in the Graphite Solutions and Process Technology business units. By contrast, the ongoing weakness in demand and the associated price pressure for carbon and textile fiber products in the Carbon Fibers business unit continued to weigh on the Group's sales and earnings development.

“Even with our diversified product portfolio, we can no longer completely withdraw from the generally weak economic environment. In addition, there was a decline in demand for specialty graphite products for the semiconductor industry in the third quarter. In particular, our products for the manufacture of silicon carbide-based semiconductors are suffering from the restrained demand for electric vehicles on the customer side,” explains CEO Dr. Torsten Derr. “While the last 18 months were characterized by enormous demand for silicon carbide semiconductors and insufficient production capacities, the market has cooled down significantly. Due to a lack of demand from the automotive industry, our semiconductor customers have significantly reduced order volumes. We do not expect to see a significant upturn in demand for our specialty graphite products until the sales figures for electric vehicles pick up again.”

Based on the adjusted EBITDA of €127.6 million and taking into account depreciation and amortization of €41.0 million (9M 2023: €43.3 million) and one-off effects as well as non-recurring items of minus €18.3 million (9M 2023: minus €47.2 million), EBIT after nine months of 2024 will be €68.3 million (9M 2023: €39.5 million). The one-off effects and non-recurring items result, among other things, from the restructuring measures at Carbon Fibers and the Battery Solutions business line as well as from expenses for a strategy project. When comparing with the previous year, it should be noted that the first nine months of 2023 were disproportionately affected by an impairment loss on the assets of Carbon Fibers (€44.7 million).

Development of the business units
The Carbon Fibers business unit's sales for the first nine months of 2024 amounted to €157.1 million, significantly below the figure of €179.6 million for the prior-year period. The decline is due in particular to the continued weak demand from the wind industry and to the increasing competitive pressure resulting from global overcapacities for carbon and textile fibers.

Idle production capacities and the associated lack of fixed cost absorption as well as declining margins for commodity products led to a further deterioration in the adjusted EBITDA of the Carbon Fibers. The adjusted EBITDA of the Carbon Fibers business unit fell to minus €7.9 million in the first nine months of 2024 (9M 2023: €3.2 million). It should be noted that the adjusted EBITDA of the Carbon Fibers business unit includes an earnings contribution of €11.6 million from the joint venture BSCCB, which is accounted for At-Equity (9M 2023: €14.1 million). Excluding this contribution from the At-Equity accounted BSCCB, the adjusted EBITDA of Carbon Fibers would have been minus €19.6 million (9M 2023: minus €10.5 million).

SGL Carbon assumes that demand for carbon fibers will not recover in the coming months and that the realizable prices for these products will remain at a low level beyond 2025. Therefore, SGL Carbon anticipates that the expected improvement in sales and earnings for the Carbon Fibers segment will be delayed and is revising its existing mid-term planning for this segment. Due to the expected deviation, an ad hoc impairment test is currently being carried out. This indicates a non-cash impairment charge of €60–80 million, which will be recognized in Q4 2024. The structured transaction process initiated for Carbon Fibers is still ongoing.

Sales in the Composite Solutions business unit amounted to €95.8 million in the first nine months of 2024, down 16.2% (9M 2023: €114.3 million). The decline is due in particular to the early termination of a project-related supply contract with an automotive customer. Furthermore, the lower sales figures for electric vehicles are also having an impact on Composite Solutions.

Adjusted EBITDA in Composite Solutions fell from €16.6 million in the prior-year period to €10.7 million (minus 35.5%), due in particular to lower volumes. The adjusted EBITDA margin weakened accordingly to 11.2% (9M 2023: 14.5%).

Outlook
Macroeconomic conditions, lower than expected sales volumes in some customer groups and price pressure for commodity products are increasingly hindering SGL Carbon's growth ambitions. Thomas Dippold, CFO of SGL Carbon, explains: “Due to the diverse and diversified industrial applications of our products and our strict cost management, we continue to expect to achieve our guidance for 2024 at the lower end of the range of €160–170 million. The coming months will not be easier. We need to prepare for a flat demand development in some of our sales markets.”

For the first time, a piece of clothing is made entirely from textile waste – no bottles, no packaging, no virgin plastic. 100% biorecycled fibers. By developing and industrializing CARBIOS’ enzymatic depolymerization technology to achieve 100% “fiber-to-fiber” recycling, the consortium collectively advances the textile industry's shift towards a circular economy.

CARBIOS, a pioneer in the development and industrialization of biological technologies to reinvent the life cycle of plastic and textiles, and its “fiber-to-fiber” consortium partners On, Patagonia, PUMA, Salomon, and PVH Corp., parent company of Calvin Klein, unveil the world’s first enzymatically recycled polyester garment made from 100% textile waste using CARBIOS’ pioneering biorecycling technology.

This technological feat contributes to advancing textile circularity when, today, the majority of recycled polyester is made from PET bottles, and only 1% of fibers are recycled into new fibers.  The collective achievement marks an important milestone for the consortium’s ultimate aim of demonstrating fiber-to-fiber closed loop using CARBIOS’ biorecycling process at an industrial scale, and marks an important step forward for the textile industry’s shift towards a circular economy.

A plain, white T-shirt was a deliberate choice to showcase the technological achievement that made its production possible from mixed and colored textile waste.  By using CARBIOS’ biorecycling technology, polyester is broken down using enzymes into its fundamental building blocks which are reformed to produce biorecycled polyester whose quality is on par with oil-based virgin polyester.  Petroleum can now be replaced by textile waste as a raw material to produce polyester textiles, that will in turn become raw materials again, thus fueling a circular economy, with the added benefit of a lower carbon footprint and avoidance of landfill or incineration.

The t-shirt’s production began with all consortium members (On, Patagonia, PUMA, PVH Corp. and Salomon) supplying rolls and production cutting scraps to CARBIOS in Clermont-Ferrand, France.  This textile waste consisted of some mixed blends with cotton or elastane, as well as various treatments (such as durable water repellent) and dyes which render them complex to recycle using conventional methods. The collected waste was deconstructed into its original monomers, PTA and MEG, using CARBIOS’ biorecycling technology at its pilot facility. The resulting monomers were then repolymerized, spun into yarn and woven into new fabric by external partners, demonstrating the seamless integration into existing manufacturing processes.  The resulting sports t-shirt made from 100% textile waste meets the quality standards and sustainability objectives of the apparel brands present in the “fiber-to-fiber” consortium.

CARBIOS’ demonstration plant in Clermont-Ferrand, France, has been up and running since 2021, and its first commercial plant, the world’s first industrial-scale enzymatic PET recycling plant, is currently under construction in Longlaville, France.  In addition, CARBIOS recently announced several letters of intent with PET producers in Asia and Europe, confirming global interest in its biorecycling technology and advancing the international roll-out of its licensing model.

Maintaining a focus on innovation despite the uncertainties that characterize the current international scenario was emphasized during the General Assembly of ACIMIT, the Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers Association, held in Milan on July 9. ACIMIT president, Marco Salvadè, showcased the data of the Italian textile machinery industry. In 2023, production decreased by 16%, settling at a value of 2.3 billion euros, as did exports, which also fell by 16% (2 billion euros).

China, Turkey, India, and the United States remain the main destinations for Italian textile machinery manufacturers. In 2023, demand for machinery in these markets was weak, but some positive signals emerged in the first quarter of the current year, especially from the Chinese market and again from Egypt, Pakistan, Brazil, and Japan. “2024 will still be a year characterized by many uncertainties,” commented Salvadè, “mainly due to the uncertainty of the geopolitical situation and fluctuations in final demand”.

In an especially difficult international scenario and with a still sluggish market, the Italian textile machinery sector remains a leader alongside a few other Countries, such as China, Germany and Japan. Accelerating innovation remains crucial, particularly to meet the challenges that await Italian manufacturers in supporting textile companies on their sustainable transition journey.

To highlight the opportunities that the European green transition opens up for technology suppliers, the public section of the ACIMIT General Assembly addressed a very current issue: textile recycling. The EU’s legislative guidelines aim to accelerate the green and circular transition of the textile sector with various actions: from ecodesign to EPR, from waste export regulation to green claims. Meanwhile, there is a growing demand for recycled textile fibers driven by the sustainable policies of brands that should not be underestimated.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announces the three finalists competing for the 2024 Hygienix Innovation Award™. Harper Hygienics, Hello Hazel, and HIRO Technologies will present their absorbent hygiene products at Hygienix™, taking place November 18-21 at The Renaissance Nashville Hotel, Nashville, Tennessee.

• Harper Hygienics S.A.: Cleanic Naturals Hemp – Sanitary Pads (Day & Night), Pantyliners
  Cleanic Naturals Hemp by Harper Hygienics S.A. is an innovative femcare line, crafted with sero™ regenerative hemp fibers produced by Bast Fibre Technologies and processed on our unique Hemplace™ technology platform. These sanitary pads and pantyliners are designed for women’s comfort throughout their cycle. Hemp’s antibacterial and hypoallergenic properties make it a natural solution for sensitive skin, ensuring all-day safety and comfort. Plus, sero™ hemp fibers are 100% natural, offering an eco-conscious approach to personal care.
• Hello Hazel, Inc.: Hazel High & Dry Briefs
  Hazel’s High & Dry Briefs – the first and only disposable briefs for leaks designed to look, fit, and feel like real underwear. Engineered with a novel, ultra-thin, highly absorbent core seamlessly integrated beneath a unique elasticated cover that moves naturally with her body, offering unparalleled comfort, discretion, and reliable protection. Purposefully developed to reduce stigma and address both physical and emotional needs, the Briefs successfully attracted many new consumers who previously opted out of the category.
• HIRO Technologies, Inc.: World’s First MycoDigestable™ Diapers
  Introducing the world’s first MycoDigestible™ diapers, powered by HIRO’s frontier fungal technology. HIRO’s MycoDigestible™ solution introduces plastic-eating mushrooms in a safe, user-friendly way that seamlessly integrates into everyday life. The HIRO Diaper combines exceptional absorbency with natural materials like unbleached TruCotton™ and Kraft softwood fluff pulp, offering 12-hour protection while being gentle on both baby and planet.

The 2024 winner will be revealed on Thursday, November 21st at 11:00 am.

The 2023 Hygienix Innovation Award went to Sequel Spiral™ Tampon, which features a unique spiral design engineered for enhanced fluid absorption and leak prevention. This breakthrough product received FDA clearance as a medical device and is available online and in a growing number of retail outlets.