From the Sector

TextileGenesis, ein Unternehmen der Lectra-Gruppe, und die Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF) setzen ihre Partnerschaft fort. Das gemeinsame Ziel ist weiterhin die Verbesserung der Rückverfolgbarkeit von gemäß Cotton made in Africa® (CmiA) verifizierten Fasern. Die Zusammenarbeit zielt darauf ab, die Transparenz der Lieferkette zu erhöhen und das Engagement von CmiA für eine nachhaltige und ethische Baumwollproduktion zu fördern.
 
CmiA, einer der weltweit führenden Standards für nachhaltige Baumwolle, setzt sich dafür ein, die Lebensgrundlage von Kleinbauern in Afrika zu verbessern und gleichzeitig die Umwelt zu schützen. Mithilfe der Rückverfolgbarkeitsplattform von TextileGenesis können Marken die Herkunft und Verarbeitung von CmiA-geprüften Rohstoffen auf einfache Weise nachvollziehen und so eine lückenlose Rückverfolgbarkeit gewährleisten.
 
Durch den Einsatz der fortschrittlichen Fibercoins-Technologie ermöglicht TextileGenesis eine vollständige Rückverfolgbarkeit vom Baumwollballen bis zum fertigen Produkt. Mit der Fortsetzung ihrer Zusammenarbeit knüpfen TextileGenesis und AbTF an den Erfolg ihrer bisherigen Partnerschaft für The Good Cashmere Standard® an, der sich auf die Verbesserung der Rückverfolgbarkeit konzentriert und 2024 eingeführt wurde. Die Ausweitung dieser Partnerschaft auf CmiA stärkt die Bemühungen beider Organisationen um skalierbare und wirkungsvolle nachhaltige Praktiken in der Textilindustrie.
 
Die Zusammenarbeit zwischen TextileGenesis und Cotton made in Africa® ermöglicht es Marken, die Herkunft von CmiA-verifizierter Baumwolle zuverlässig zu überprüfen, um genaue Nachhaltigkeitsangaben zu gewährleisten und gleichzeitig die jährliche Berichterstattung zu verbessern. Darüber hinaus haben Marken, die TextileGenesis nutzen, Zugang zum größten Lieferantennetzwerk der Branche, das es ihnen ermöglicht, ihr gesamtes Produktionsökosystem zu erfassen und einen umfassenden Einblick in ihre gesamte Lieferkette zu erhalten – von den Faserherstellern bis hin zu externen Prüfern.
 
Durch die Erweiterung der Partnerschaft können Einzelhändler und Marken von zwei etablierten Rückverfolgungssystemen profitieren, die Transparenz für CmiA-verifizierte Baumwolle vom Feld bis zum Kleidungsstückbieten und eine große Flexibilität bei der Rückverfolgung ihrer Baumwolle ermöglichen. Unternehmen, die bereits mit TextileGenesis zusammenarbeiten, profitieren von der Nutzung einer einzigen Plattform zur Verwaltung der Rückverfolgbarkeit über mehrere Materialnachhaltigkeitsstandards hinweg, einschließlich Cotton made in Africa®. Dieser rationalisierte Ansatz verbessert die Effizienz und schafft Synergien in der gesamten Lieferkette. Andere Unternehmen können sich weiterhin auf das etablierte SCOT-System von CmiA verlassen, um CmiA-verifizierte Baumwolle in ihrer gesamten Textillieferkette zu erfassen.
 
90 Prozent der Nachhaltigkeitsstandards für Materialien, einschließlich CmiA, nutzen TextileGenesis als Rückverfolgungssystem. Dies unterstreicht die Bedeutung von TextileGenesis als zentrale, leicht zugängliche Plattform für die Rückverfolgbarkeit einer Vielzahl von zertifizierten Materialien und macht die Lösung zum Industriestandard für die Sicherstellung der Authentizität und Konformität über verschiedene Zertifizierungssysteme hinweg.

Women play a decisive role in achieving social and economic improvements for entire communities, including those involved in cotton production. Nonetheless, female farmers continue to face systemic disadvantages. Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) is pursuing gender justice to redress this imbalance, and the results of a recent study reveal significant progress in this regard.

A recent study shows women taking leadership through Cotton made in Africa as lead farmers. In this position, they serve as role models; they offer other female farmers someone to turn to; and they establish co-operatives together with other women to increase both their autonomy and their financial independence by creating new sources of income.

A major factor in this success has been collaboration with African cotton companies in the cultivation regions. This involves regular verifications to assess whether the partners’ activities comply with the standard’s requirements. The verifications are structured around a large selection of indicators that address issues including whether gender-related training was completed or whether projects promoting gender justice were conducted. Over the past years, this approach has not only raised awareness of gender equality among village communities but also increasingly challenged or dissolved traditional norms among the partner companies’ management and staff, thereby resolving inequities and empowering women at the systemic level. The study revealed that respondents see Cotton made in Africa as playing a highly supportive role. Intensive communication through training, verifications, and discussions with other cotton companies has given partner companies a clear awareness of how important gender justice is. As a result, they have become significantly more active in this regard, thereby encouraging women to assume a stronger position in agriculture and the communities. This is reflected in the fact that over 80 percent of both male and female respondents in Mozambique disagreed with the statement that care work should only be done by women. At least 60 percent of female and male farmers surveyed apply the skills and knowledge acquired through the training, which expressly addresses gender-specific aspects. In addition, over 80 percent of surveyed women stated that they receive the same share of proceeds from cotton sales as the other members of their families.

CmiA’s gender study was based on the internationally recognised Women’s Empowerment in Agriculture Index, which aims to measure and improve the role of women in agriculture. In addition to the survey of over 500 farmers, 26 qualitative interviews and around 30 group discussions were conducted in cotton-growing areas of Mozambique (in south-eastern Africa) and Benin (in western Africa) in order to ensure a representative sample.

Cotton made in Africa shares the United Nations’ views on the significance of gender equality, as outlined in the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), especially SDG 5. In its own work as a sustainability standard, CmiA also follows international norms and frameworks, such as ILO conventions or Agenda 2030; at a higher level, CmiA promotes gender equality in the textile industry by participating in expert groups like the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles’ strategy committee for gender equality.

Together with Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) and the cotton company MMP Agro, the GoodTextiles Foundation is realising a project to improve the drinking water supply in Uganda, Africa. Bio-sand-waterfilters are being installed to gently purify the water from existing sources. In addition, the partners are training the community's farmers and craftsmen in how to operate the water filters. They then learn how to build new water filters.

In 2016, the textile company Dibella established the GoodTextiles Foundation with the aim of making textile value chains more sustainable. It raises donations and implements its own funding projects to benefit people at all stages of the textile industry.

As part of a joint project between the GoodTextiles Foundation, the Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF) (owner of the CmiA standard) and MMP Agro, farmers who grow CmiA cotton in the districts of Abim, Kaplebyong, Dokolo and Kaberamaido in north-east Uganda are now receiving a total of around 1,000 bio-sand-waterfilters. Around 1,000 CmiA farmers, mainly women and the members of their households (an estimated 10,000 community members) benefit from this.

• Precious water for villages that are running on dry land

The GoodTextiles Foundation has worked to improve drinking water supplies in sub-Saharan Africa in another joint project with Cotton made in Africa (CmiA). In three villages in Togo particularly affected by climate change, the partners built wells and trained people in the use of water. The curriculum included the topics of disease prevention, hygiene and health care.

In 2016, the textile company Dibella (Bocholt) established the GoodTextiles Foundation with the aim of making textile value chains more sustainable. It raises funds and implements its own support projects to benefit people at all stages of the textile industry. Now the foundation has once again supported a project in sub-Saharan Africa initiated by Cotton made in Africa (Hamburg). Funding is being provided for three villages in Togo that, according to a needs assessment by CmiA's local partner, the cotton company Nouvelle Société Cotonnière du Togo (NSCT), have no direct access to drinking water.

Difficult water procurement
The areas where CmiA's drought-resistant cotton is grown include the north and interior of Togo, where cotton farmers are particularly affected by the effects of climate change due to prolonged periods of drought. Many village communities lack access to clean drinking water, and people draw contaminated water from more distant rivers or waterholes and carry the heavy load back with difficulty.

Guide to clean water
As part of a joint project between the GoodTextiles Foundation, Aid by Trade Foundation (holder of the CmiA standard) and NSCT, three drought-affected villages - Namare/Puob-n-kpaad, Tchokoroko and Aloba - will now receive their own water supply.

The funds - 11,756 euros will be provided by the GoodTextiles Foundation, and 4,419 euros will come from the Cotton Society - will be used to construct a well operated by hand pumps in each village. The construction work is to be completed by March 2023 and the 2,300 inhabitants will be taught the basics of water handling, disease prevention and hygiene measures in so-called WASH training courses.

Driving force: UN SDGs
For years, we have aligned our company with the UN's 17 Sustainable Development Goals (Global Goals for Sustainable Development). Through the sponsorship project, we are not only contributing to SDG 6 "Clean water and sanitation", but also to gender equality (SDG 5). In the African countries from which we source CmiA cotton, the physically strenuous task of procuring water is still the responsibility of women. The construction of the wells now leads to a significant improvement of their living situation," reports Ralf Hellmann, managing director of Dibella and chairman of the foundation.

Continued under their own responsibility
Once the wells have been handed over to the village communities, "water committees" will take over their management and maintenance, as well as responsibility for further hygiene training for the residents. The operation of the wells will be financed on the basis of a fund made up of small contributions from the beneficiary communities.