From the Sector

Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) presented a new online film series: Fashion Redressed. Produced by BBC StoryWorks Commercial Productions, the captivating series intends to inspire the industry to take action to transform the way we produce and consume fashion.

Every day we express ourselves through our clothes. Encompassing cultures, personalities, traditions and beliefs, fashion is core to how we present ourselves to the outside world. But our consumption of fashion and clothing is pushing our planet and societies to its limits. Fashion trendsetters and pioneers are working to meet this challenge head-on with game-changing ideas. At the heart of this is the question: how can we keep expressing all we do through fashion, but without hurting the planet?
 
Focused on finding the answers, Fashion Redressed, comprises multiple films that showcase organisations from across the fashion and textile industries. Launched on a BBC.com microsite, the series spotlights the innovations across the world that are influencing the new seasons of fashion, featuring a collection of stories that depict tailor-made solutions to fit us and our planet.
 
The 11 self-contained branded films showcase a range of participants including: eBay, Elk, The Ellen MacArthur Foundation, Vestiaire Collective, Spinnova, Lenzing, Faherty, FarFetch, Waste2Wear, Colorifix and Forest Stewardship Council. Each film focuses on a bespoke solution that can benefit us and the planet. From the scientist taking inspiration from silk-spinning spiders in Helsinki and the duo taking a deep dive into the genetic makeup of colour in Cambridge, to the pre-loved clothes being brought to life on a global platform from Paris and the importance of cultural appreciation in Arizona, fashion gathers the most creative and innovative minds. This series expresses the dynamism and creativity of the fashion world, spotlighting the people weaving change into the fibres of fashion and those who are working to find the stylish side of a more sustainable sector.
 
The series was unveiled ahead of GFA’s landmark event – Global Fashion Summit: Boston Edition – on 27 September. The forum will bring together fashion stakeholders for agenda-setting discussions and productive meetings on critical environmental and social issues.

Autoneum's consolidated revenue increased by 24.1% from CHF 888.7 million to CHF 1 102.6 million in the first half of 2023. The Group grew significantly both organically, thanks to a market recovery in Europe and North America, and inorganically, through the acquisition of the traditional German company Borgers. All business units improved their profitability compared to the prior-year period. EBIT adjusted for special effects increased by CHF 33.0 million to CHF 45.0 million and the EBIT margin rose from 1.4% to 4.1% compared to the prior-year period. EBIT rose by CHF 78.5 million to CHF 84.9 million in the same period, with an increase in EBIT margin of 7.0 percentage points to 7.7%. Autoneum achieved a solid net result of CHF 57.8 million. Business Group North America nearly reached break-even point before special effects. As planned, the Borgers units, consolidated for the first time in the second quarter, made a positive contribution to the overall result from day one.

Economic conditions in the automotive supply industry improved in the first half of 2023 compared to the prior-year period. There was a slight easing of supply chains and a rise in production volumes among vehicle manufacturers already in the first quarter of 2023. This was especially true in markets that had previously been heavily impacted by supply chain bottlenecks.

Global automobile production climbed by 11.8%* compared with the prior-year period, although consumer demand was somewhat dampened by high vehicle prices in some markets. In this improved market environment and supported by the acquisition of the automotive business from Borgers, a long-standing German company, as of April 1, 2023, Autoneum increased its revenue and net result substantially in the first six months compared with the same period of the previous year.

• Positive revenue development supported by inorganic growth
• Significant improvement of operational profitability and solid net profit
• Equity ratio influenced by the acquisition of Borgers Automotive
• Creation of a capital band
• Business Groups
• Integration of Borgers automotive business
• Working on behalf of electromobility with sustainable noise absorption in underbody
• shields
• Change to the Group Executive Board
• SBTi recognizes Autoneum’s science-based targets

Outlook unchanged
According to the current S&P market forecasts, it is expected that global automobile production will climb by 5.7%* in 2023 compared with 2022. Autoneum anticipates that production volumes in the various regions will develop in line with the forecasts. Customer negotiations are ongoing and Autoneum expects that the increase in costs for raw materials, energy, transportation and staff will be completely offset in the second half of the year. Based on the forecast market development and the renegotiated customer agreements, Autoneum confirms the outlook that it published in March 2023. The Company expects total revenue of CHF 2.4 to 2.5 billion at unchanged exchange rates for the financial year 2023, an EBIT margin of 3.5% to 4.5% excluding one-time effects and a free cash flow in the higher double-digit millions, excluding acquisition-related net cash outflows.

For more information, see attached document.

*Source: S&P market forecast – August 15, 2023

From 16 – 18 August 2023, 1,022 exhibitors from 13 countries and regions will occupy four halls and 100,000 sqm gross at the National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai). This Autumn Edition of Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles will return to its regular format, as a comprehensive platform held separately from Messe Frankfurt’s other autumn textile fairs. Complementing the strong lineup of exhibitors over all three days, a varied selection of fringe events will communicate key insights, offer industry specific inspiration, and facilitate cross-sector exchanges for fairgoers.

Buyers from 66 countries and regions have already pre-registered for the show, while a range of international brands are preparing to showcase their latest innovations. Multiple exhibitors will gather according to origin, with three country and region pavilions a must-see for fairgoers seeking exotic home textiles:

• Belgium Pavilion: products on show include bedding fabrics and sets, curtains and curtain fabrics, sofa covers, upholstery, and much more. With the pavilion set to feature a number of Belgian brands, its highlighted exhibitors are Libeco and Love Home Fabrics.
• Taiwan (China) Pavilion: multiple Taiwanese exhibitors, including JWL Fabrics Co Ltd, Maxland Home Textile Industrial Co Ltd, and Vanttex International Co Ltd, will demonstrate specific examples of the varied applications of their home textiles.
• Türkiye Pavilion: organised by Uludag Textile Exporters’ Association (UTIB), the pavilion will showcase a range of curtains, upholstery fabrics, and other home textiles, from suppliers such as Aleran Tekstil Inşaat Gida Sanayi Ve Ticaret Ltd Şti, Küçükçalik Tekstil San Ve Tic A Ş and Weavers Tekstil San Ve Tic A Ş.

Beyond the pavilions, buyers can easily locate their desired home and contract textiles via conveniently placed product zones, covering categories such as curtain and curtain fabrics; sun protection and window shades; upholstery and sofa fabrics; furniture leather; bedding and editors; loungewear and bath; and rugs. Wide-ranging suppliers from China and beyond will showcase their various products, featuring international exhibitors such as Elastron – Leather & Fabrics, Morgan and PT Sinar Continental; and well-known domestic manufacturers including Hangzhou Aico Home Textile Co Ltd, Huatex International (Hangzhou) Co Ltd and Zhe Jiang Maya Fabric Co Ltd.

Fringe programme: keeping fairgoers up-to-date with range of industry developments
Business exchange at Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles will once again be supplemented by multiple concurrent events, for home textile players to learn more about the latest industry innovations, as well as upcoming design trends. These include:

• International Intertextile Trend Forum 2023–2024: held in the afternoon of day one, the event will be hosted by a prominent member of the ‘2023 – 2024 Intertextile International Lifestyle Trend’ trend committee, Mr Shen Lei, joined on the panel by multiple designers. They will discuss various impacts on designs, such as sustainability’s effect, the influence of emerging technologies, and international integration and localised expression.
• IKASAS Japanese Home Design Gallery and themed seminar: the leading Japanese furniture brand IKASAS will utilise a display area to illustrate its unique design philosophy, by showcasing innovative furniture products that predominantly align with contemporary trends. The company’s founder, Mr Akiyuki Sasaki, will delve deeper into his design views in a seminar held on the morning of day one.
• The New Power of Healthy Home Decoration Environment: a first-time collaboration with CRECC Full Decoration Council, the cross-sector conference in Hall 5.1 on day two will welcome keynote speakers from the real estate industry, to discuss topical insights at the intersection of realty and home textiles. The audience will come away with a widened scope of the different applications and demands of home textiles, and an ability to more accurately identify business opportunities within the property market.

• Sales up 1.9% year-on-year to €560.5 million with stable adjusted EBITDA of €88.0 million
• Strong business performance of the Graphite Solutions, Process Technology and Composite Solutions businesses
• Sales and earnings decline at Carbon Fibers due to weakness of wind market
• Impairment at Carbon Fibers of €44.7 million

Despite the increasingly difficult economic environment, SGL Carbon was able to increase sales in H1 2023 from €549.8 million in the previous year to €560.5 million. Adjusted EBITDA (EBITDApre) remained almost unchanged at €88.0 million (H1 2022: €87.9 million). The expected good business performance of the Graphite Solutions business unit and the better-than-expected sales and earnings development of Process Technology and Composite Solutions compensated the drop in demand in Carbon Fibers.

In particular, the Graphite Solutions (GS) business unit contributed to the stable development of the Company with a 15.3% increase in sales to €280.6 million (H1 2022: €243.4 million) and a 20.6% improvement in adjusted EBITDA to €65.1 million (H1 2022: €54.0 million). GS benefited especially from the high demand of the semiconductor industry. The semiconductor and LED market segment now accounts for around 45% of GS revenue (H1 2022: around 35%).

With a 30.9% increase in sales to €64.4 million (H1 2022: €49.2 million) and a significant rise in adjusted EBITDA from €4.1 million to €11.9 million, the business performance of Process Technology (PT) was significantly above the original planning. Composite Solutions (CS) also reported a higher-than-forecast sales increase of 14.4% to €79.6 million in H1 2023 (H1 2022: €69.6 million) and an improvement in adjusted EBITDA of 26.8% to €12.3 million (H1 2022: €9.7 million). By contrast, the business performance of the Carbon Fibers (CF) unit was not in line with expectations, with a 28.9% decline in sales to €125.1 million (H1 2022: €176.0 million) and a 78.4% drop in earnings to €6.1 million (H1 2022: €28.2 million).

An important market segment for the Carbon Fibers business unit is the wind industry. Demand for carbon fibers for the wind industry has declined sharply since the beginning of the year. According to current estimates, the expected recovery in demand in H2 2023 will not materialize. SGL Carbon expects customer demand from the wind industry to pick up in 2024.

As already announced in the ad hoc release of July 24, 2023, an impairment loss of €44.7 million was recognized on the assets of Carbon Fibers as of June 30, 2023.

Results situation
SGL Carbon's adjusted EBITDA (EBITDApre) remained almost stable in a half-year comparison at €88.0 million (H1 2022: €87.9 million). Due to the lack of demand from wind industry, CF's production capacity utilization decreased and idle capacity costs weighed on adjusted EBITDA. By contrast, higher margins from product mix and volume effects in the other three business units had a positive impact on adjusted EBITDA.

Non-recurring items and one-off effects not included in adjusted EBITDA totaled minus €46.9 million in the first half of 2023, of which €44.7 million resulted from an impairment loss in the CF business unit.

In addition to the above-mentioned effects and nearly unchanged depreciation and amortization of €29.1 million (H1 2022: €28.9 million), the decline in EBIT resulted in particular from the impairment loss already described (€44.7 million). After €69.6 million in H1 2022, EBIT amounted to €12.0 million in the reporting period.

Taking into account the slightly improved financial result of minus €15.8 million (H1 2022: minus €16.6 million), consolidated net income for the first six months of the current financial year amounted to minus €10.0 million, compared to €48.8 million in the first half of the previous year.

Net financial debt and equity
To complete its refinancing, SGL Carbon issued convertible bonds with a volume of €118.7 million in June 2023 and drew an existing term loan facility of €75 million in July 2023, which was used together with cash of the Company on July 28, 2023 to repay the corporate bond (outstanding as of June 30, 2023: €237.4 million). Accordingly, cash and cash equivalents increased to €310.5 million as of June 30, 2023 (€227.3 million as of December 31, 2022) and financial debt temporarily increased to €480.4 million (€398.1 million as of December 31, 2022). Net financial debt remained nearly unchanged at €169.9 million as of June 30, 2023 (Dec. 31, 2022: € 170.8 million).

Despite the impairment loss of €44.7 million in Carbon Fibers, shareholders' equity amounted to €565.2 million as of June 30, 2023, only slightly lower than at the end of 2022 (Dec. 31, 2022: €569.3 million). This corresponds to an equity ratio of 36.1% (Dec. 31, 2022: 38.5%).

On the occasion of the 2023 UCI Cycling World Championships, the Union Cycliste Internationale chose Santini to make the bibs from recyclable materials. The UCI's partner brought together a pool of companies, all in the Bergamo area (Italy): RadiciGroup, Sitip, EFI Reggiani and Acerbis.

In 2022, the Union Cycliste Internationale released the UCI Climate Action Charter, which lays out an action plan to advance the environmental sustainability of the sport with a specific principle to reduce waste and accelerate the transition to a circular economy. This year, the UCI Cycling World Championships, which will be held from 3 to 13 August, are bringing together most of the cycling disciplines in a single location: Glasgow and across Scotland.

To mark the occasion, the UCI turned to its Official Partner, Santini, to make the bibs that the staff (judges, volunteers, commissaires etc.) and accredited photographers wear throughout the event. The bibs are "eco-designed", which means they are specifically created to have a second life after use. Once the event is over, the bibs could be collected and sent to RadiciGroup and transformed into new material, to be then processed by Acerbis to create X-Elite handguards for mountain bikes. This project is a concrete example of the circular economy at work, allowing 100% of the materials used to be recovered.

To optimise the production cycle of the bibs for the 2023 UCI Cycling World Championships, the products must be eco-friendly from the very first phase. The fabrics were therefore made from Italian nylon yarn produced by RadiciGroup. The choice of nylon – an infinitely recyclable thermoplastic material – is intertwined with UCI's sustainability goals for "limited-use" garments: RadiciGroup was able to channel its know-how and expertise in the field of chemistry to create "circular" bibs, working alongside the other partners. As the innovative yarn selected by RadiciGroup allows for easy and high-quality printing, the fabric is also customisable. The yarn is then provided to Sitip to create the "ARAS NG" warp-knitted fabric (95 g/100 m2): a recyclable single-fibre material made from 100% polyamide. The resulting fabric is the first nylon of its kind, designed to meet the transfer printing needs of the third project partner, EFI Reggiani, as well as the recyclability standards requested by RadiciGroup. The choice of fabric was born from extensive applied research, in which EFI Reggiani tested a wide range of fabrics to find the best colour results and the best resistance to rubbing and perspiration, which is vital for the bibs' intended use. In addition to using the new GOTS-certified EFI Reggiani IRIS Plus water-based inks, EFI Reggiani opted for a printing solution on transfer paper that does not consume water and requires a minimal amount of energy per square metre. Finally, the white fabric from Sitip and the transfer paper printed by EFI Reggiani arrived at Santini, who were responsible for transferring all the graphics for the 2023 UCI Cycling World Championships bibs from the paper onto the fabric. Santini also took care to assemble the garments using only thread and components made from nylon or chemically similar materials, allowing the bibs to enter the recycling process at the end of their lives without any further processing.                   

Flat knitting solutions provider SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan has launched its “SHIMA HelpCenter” customer support site. SHIMA HelpCenter integrates Help, FAQ, Operation Manual, and Glossary functions for SHIMA SEIKI products, and supports cross-content keyword search to improve user convenience. In addition, video content provides easy-to-understand explanations of various product functions, as smart solutions to questions and problems that may arise during product use. With support for smartphones and tablets, our product users can use the service anytime, anywhere. Operation manuals that were previously provided in printed form are being converted to the online version in order to provide services more efficiently in an environmentally friendly, sustainable, and convenient manner.

SHIMA online is a web service platform which features “APEXFiz®” design software subscription service, “yarnbank®” digital yarn sourcing service, “SHIMA Datamall™” digital content service, “SHIMANAVI®” e-learning system and “SHIMA KnitManager™” knit production management software, all of which are designed to improve operational efficiency and create attractive and sustainable products. With a SHIMA online account, both SHIMA HelpCenter and SHIMA Datamall can be accessed using the same ID.

Archroma is bringing the entire portfolio of 5,760 Archroma Color Atlas colors to swatchbook, a platform for material digitalization and sourcing.

The new partnership provides fashion, apparel and textile designers and manufacturers with an elevated standard for color accuracy that meets the needs of today’s increasingly technology-driven and integrated supply chain. This will help the textile and fashion community to improve sustainability, whilst lowering costs and shortening turnaround times.

The Color Atlas by Archroma® was launched in 2016 to provide fashion designers and stylists with off-the-shelf color inspiration that can be implemented in production with just a few clicks.

Designers will use the 5,760 Archroma Color Atlas colors on swatchbook to rapidly develop accurate digital colorways and visualize their final product. They can then share these digital swatches with their manufacturing partners, providing access to the swatchbook metadata, which can include information such as the materials’ composition, weight and color.

This will streamline the overall design and production process for color-critical fashion and textile products, allowing for faster turnaround. Digital materials supported by trusted coloration technology also reduce the need for samples and eliminate physical swatchbooks, bringing environmental benefits and lower costs to brands and suppliers.

All 5,760 Color Atlas by Archroma® colors are now available free of charge to subscribers on the swatchbook platform.

The ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei team knows that value creation is the foundation of contemporary business. Its team is ready to take ROICA™ to the next level, responding to market demand innovations, whilst sharing its latest responsible production system with a new generation of consumer.

For this reason, the ROICA™ strategy is based on two key elements:
First, a focus on responsible innovation, able to respond to new market needs and desires without harming the environment or society at large. Thanks to the certified and eco-high tech ROICA Eco-Smart™ family, Asahi Kasei is able to meet responsible business needs and contemporary consumers’ desire for a modern wardrobe that represents a new generation of values.

Second, the dawn of ROICA™ has fueled a consolidation of partnerships along the whole supply chain through conversations and collaborations with companies sharing ROICA™’s values, including: Artistic Milliners, CIFRA, Dresdner Spitzen, Iluna Group, Innova Fabrics, Maglificio Ripa, Penn Italia - Penn Textile Solutions GmbH, Sitip S.p.A. and Tessitura Colombo.

DOMO Chemicals, a global leader in polyamide-based engineered material solutions and services, has published its latest annual Sustainability Report, detailing progress on its sustainability journey, including notable reductions in greenhouse gas emissions. DOMO’s mission is to engineer polyamide solutions that contribute to a better, more sustainable world. In publishing its second annual Sustainability Report, DOMO enters a new phase in its decarbonization quest, with confidence in its long-term aspiration to set the standard for sustainability in the industry by 2030.

Notably, the Sustainability Report details DOMO’s achievements in 2022 toward realizing its 2030 sustainability goals. In terms of decarbonization and broader environmental achievements, against a 2019 baseline, the company:

• Reduced scope 1 and 2 greenhouse gas emissions by 27%, making significant progress toward its target of 40% reduction by 2030 and carbon neutrality by 2050
• Increased renewable electricity throughout operations to 12%
• Reduced waste by 24%
• Lowered water intake by 4.5%

In addition, as a provider of polyamide-based sustainable and circular solutions, DOMO:

• Achieved more than 11% of engineered materials sales based on sustainable feedstock, making excellent progress toward its 2030 target of 20%
• Allocated 25% of research and development resources to enhanced recycling

Moreover, fostering talent and ensuring the well-being of its workforce as a responsible employer is essential for sustainable growth, and 2022 highlights include:

• Increased share of women in senior positions from 22% in 2021 to 30% in 2022
• Providing a safe and inclusive working environment that encourages personal and professional development as well as a global safety culture

How does a future-proof, circular and sustainable plastics economy look like? The answer is a balance ranging from plastics reduction to a sustainable use of recyclable plastics. After all, the increasing demand for plastics in high-value applications such as food packaging, car parts or synthetic textiles requires a holistic change. With four strategic approaches, researchers from the German institute Fraunhofer UMSICHT and the Dutch institute TNO now provide insights into how this future scenario could look like in their recently published white paper "From #plasticfree to future-proof plastics". Both organizations also start a hands-on platform for plastics in a circular economy: European Circular Plastics Platform – CPP aimed at removing existing barriers and sharing of promising solutions.

Versatile and inexpensive materials with low weight and very good barrier properties: That's what plastics are. In addition to their practical benefits, however, the materials are also associated with a significant share of mankind's greenhouse gas emissions. The production and use of plastics cause environmental pollution and microplastics, deplete fossil resources and lead to import dependencies. At the same time, alternatives - such as glass packaging - could cause even more environmental burden or have poorer product properties.

Researchers from TNO and Fraunhofer UMSICHT have elaborated a white paper that provides a basis for the transformation of plastics production and use. They consider the integration of the perspectives of all stakeholders and their values and the potential of current and future technologies. In addition, the functional properties of the target product, the comparison with alternative products without plastics, and their impact in a variety of environmental, social and economic categories over the entire life cycle are crucial. In this way, a systematic assessment and ultimately a systematic decision as to where we can use, reject or replace plastics can be realized.

Strategies for the Circular Economy
As a result, the researchers describe four strategic approaches for transforming today's largely linear plastics economy into a fully circular future: Narrowing the Loop, Operating the Loop, Slowing the Loop, and Closing the Loop. By Narrowing the Loop, the researchers recommend, as a first step, to reduce the amount of materials mobilized in a circular economy. Operating the Loop refers to using renewable energy, minimizing material losses, and sourcing raw materials sustainably. For Slowing the Loop, measures are needed to extend the useful lifetime of materials and products. Finally, for Closing the Loop, plastics must be collected, sorted and recycled to high standards.

Individual strategies fall under each of the four approaches. While the ones under Operating the Loop (O strategies) should be applied in parallel and as completely as possible. According to the researchers, the decision for the strategies in the other fields (R strategies) requires a complex process: “Usually, more than one R-strategy can be considered for a given product or service. These must be carefully compared in terms of their feasibility and impact in the context of the status quo and expected changes”, explains Jürgen Bertling from Fraunhofer UMSICHT. The project partners have therefore developed a guiding principle for prioritization based on the idea of the waste hierarchy.

A holistic change, as we envision it, can only succeed if science, industry, politics and citizens work together across sectors. “This implies several, partly quite drastic changes at 4 levels: legislation and policy, circular chain collaboration, design and development, and education and information. For instance, innovations in design and development include redesign of polymers to more oxygen rich ones based on biomass and CO2 utilisation. Current recycling technologies have to be improved for high quantity and quality recycling,” explains Jan Harm Urbanus from TNO.

Hands-on platform for cross-sector collaboration
“Therefore, in a next step, TNO and Fraunhofer UMSICHT are building a hands-on platform for plastics in a circular economy: European Circular Plastics Platform – CPP," explains Esther van den Beuken, Principal Consultant from TNO. It will give companies, associations and non-governmental organizations the opportunity to work together on existing barriers and promising solutions for a Circular Plastics Economy. The platform will also offer its members regular hands-on workshops on plastics topics, roundtable discussions on current issues, and participation in multi-client studies on pressing technical challenges. Regular meetings will be held in the cross-border region of Germany and the Netherlands as well as online. The goal is to bring change to the public and industry.