From the Sector

• Interfilière Shanghai, 26th-27th September 2019, Booth 1C11

Able to offer an alchemy of design and sustainable features, Iluna Group with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei join the latest edition of Interfilière Shanghaiwith a range of developments capable of combining innovation, aesthetics and quality.

"Ethical" lace and stockings, where quality standards go hand in hand with fashion content, respecting both the environment and humans, an offer already selected among the protagonists of the Sustainable Thinking Exhibition of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum, for its value in the field of responsible innovation.Experts in the production of stretch lace  since 1985 ILUNA today represents the largest European laces’producer. 

Thanks to the effectiveness of their responsible innovation strategy, Iluna Group has been the very first lace producer to have gained the GRS(Global Recycled Standard) for their  transformed products together with the company certification STeP (Sustainable Textile Production by Oeko –Tex®).

A relevant  achievement for the firm that, thanks to the Green Labelcollection, now even richer, make responsible innovation an asset for production that focuses on smart ingredients as ROICA Eco-Smart™ family andQ-Nova® by Fulgar.

Shanghai - ROICA™ lands in Shanghai to showcase its complete range of premium stretch fibers for the modern wardrobe and disclose its visionary approach and strategy for a cutting-edge and sustainable fashion.

On show, leading material innovator Asahi Kasei introduces a premium stretch fiber starting from the ultimate ROICA Eco-Smart™ Family. The certified and multi-awarded range has astonished the textile world for its hyper-performative features. “The new premium stretch is synonymous of transformation: from standard to speciality, from basic to special, from ordinary to clever and from standard to Smart.” Explains Shinichiro Haga, Senior Executive Manager - ROICA™ Division.

Sustainability and a responsible approach are the true core of research and development to create high-tech engineered yarns.Such visionary imprint imbues all ROICA™ innovations:

• ROICA Eco-Smart™ family: A true world-first with the most contemporary sustainable range of responsibly produced premium ingredients. ROICA Eco-Smart™ family offers 2 sustainably designed stretch yarns

- ROICA™ EF is GRS by Textile Exchange certified, thanks to the fact that more than 50% of yarn content comes from the recycling of pre-consumer waste.
- ROICA™ V550 yarn got the Cradle-to-Cradle® Innovation Institute’s GOLD LEVEL Material Health certificate for impacts on human and environmental health. This yarn is also Hohenstein Environment Compatibility Certificated, signifying at its end-of-life, ROICA ™ yarn smartly breaks down without releasing harmful materials.

• ROICA Feel Good™ family: A unique range of advanced stretch yarns that deliver personal performance and measurable wellness, freshness and comfort metrics for travel, sport, leisure and more.
   
• ROICA Colour Perfect™ family: A range of yarns that can give excellent, flawless and world unique colour dimensions in advanced fit solutions.
   
• ROICA Resistance™ family: A high performance range of stretch solutions with performance resistance designed for match particular applications.
   
• ROICA Contour™ family: A range of yarns that create new shaping, stretch and silhouette solutions for a calibrated fit, effortless control, softness, comfort and support.

ROICA™ already entered the most advanced collections of leading brands as: Wolford for exceptional European Skinwear including legwear, Sarah Borghi for hosiery, SITA Active for Smart pret-a-porter,  Daquini for athleisure, Livy for sensual lingerie, SCOTT Racing Team for cycling uniforms, Closed for denim, Un-Sanctioned for running suits, Vitamine A for beachwear and many others.

In Shanghai, ROICA™ is set to stand out as leader in Smart Innovation. As tangible proof of this, the company brings to Intertextile Shanghai some of its ultimate collaborations across China and the Far East.

Berlin - 200 exhibitors, around 1,000 visitors and over 20 speakers from Germany and abroad – the ATSG textile fair premiered in Berlin from 11 to 13 September 2019 brought together exhibitors, speakers and trade visitors from all over the world. Jason Prescott, CEO of JP Communications, said he was satisfied with the event at the Estrel Conference Center: "The first step has been taken, now we will establish the ATSG as an important event of the Berlin fashion and textile world".

The ATSG was the first fair of its kind in Germany. "There are many fashion trade fairs for sale from wholesale to retail. Berlin has so far lacked an event for companies of all sizes, including micro-brands and small fashion labels," continues Jason Prescott. The exhibited product categories included fabrics, technical clothing, mixed and knitted fabrics, home textiles, leather, natural and synthetic fibres, readymade goods and fashion accessories. Visitors to major European fashion brands as well as small, independent brands from the Berlin fashion scene were able to take a close look at raw materials and finished garments and discuss their ideas personally with the exhibitors. In parallel, China Textile Brand Show (Berlin), sponsored by Chinese Ministry of Commerce (MOFCOM), made its debut bringing in more than 150 superb Chinese manufacturers with their best collections for Germany and EU market.

Opening Ceremony, Lectures and Fashion Show

The ATSG was opened by Chinese government representatives and international association delegates. More than 20 lectures on the three days provided the latest impulses for thought and discussion. In their lectures and panel discussions, speakers from all over the world presented current positions on topics such as "All China? Or is there more to it?", "Application examples of artificial intelligence in the fashion industry", "Optimal logistics concepts for Europe", or "The importance of sustainability in the European fashion industry".

Wilson Zhu, COO at Li & Fung, one of the world's largest trading houses based in Hong Kong, explained in his keynote speech his view on the digitization of global supply chains: "From raw materials in the textile factory to consumer tracking: In retail, every step of the value chain is determined by digitization.

Companies need to be close to consumers and their supply chains must enable a seamless flow of data and information from start to finish". Customers and their requirements have also changed: "They want to know about origin, recyclability and production standards and use their information to adjust their purchasing behavior accordingly.” Other speakers included Jeff Streader of the brand investment platform Go Global and Salman Khokhar of Brand Lab Kollective Moda. The fashion show on the second day featured creations by local Berlin labels (Damur, Danny Reinke, Aline Celi, Yoona Tech) as well as Asian brands exhibiting at ATSG.

Successful kick-off

Exhibition organiser Jason Prescott draws a positive balance: "Looking back on the three days, I am very proud of what went well. Which has been confirmed for us: We're on an exciting path, have taken our first steps here in Berlin and will continue to develop the exhibition." The creators of ATSG 2019 are taking ideas for the year 2020 with them, especially from the many intensive discussions with exhibitors and visitors: "The ATSG has offered visitors and exhibitors a unique opportunity to identify new growth strategies, look around for market partners, learn from each other and establish networks. We are very pleased that the concept was used here in Berlin," concludes Chase Vance, Director of JP Communications.

Keynote by Wilson Zhu (COO at Li & Fung) on digitizing global supply chains and interview with Jason Prescott (CEO JP Communications) on ATSG's concept, goals and program

From 11 to 13 September, the textile trade fair Apparel Textile Sourcing Germany (ATSG) will take place for the first time in Berlin. 200 manufacturers from all over the world will present the latest developments and trends in the global apparel and textile market. Manufacturers for the mass market as well as producers supplying brands or retailers with smaller retail ranges will present themselves. A large number of
international experts from the textile industry will be giving lectures and discussing the future of the market. Admission is free.

The ATSG is organized by JP Communications Inc. (JPC). With trade fairs under the umbrella brand ATS (Apparel Textile Sourcing), the company is already a well-known player in the North American textile and clothing industry. JP Communications operates the most extensive network of B2B sourcing platforms in the USA. TopTenWholesale.com and Manufacturer.com are used by millions of international members to find suitable wholesalers and manufacturers. The ATSG is supported by a large number of local and European organisations from industry, trade and commerce as well as international consulates.

• Der neue Hybriddrucker ermöglicht den Einstieg in Textildirektdruck und Direkttransferdruck.
• Dank der Flexibilität der Druckmaschine können kleinere Druckdienstleister ihr Anwendungsspektrum erweitern und sich neue Märkte erschließen.

Mimaki Engineering, ein Hersteller von Inkjetdruckern und Schneideplottern, hat heute über die weltweit erste Vorführung eines brandneuen digitalen Textil-Hybriddruckers aus der TX300P-Serie bei der ITMA 2019 informiert (20. bis 26. Juni in Barcelona, Halle 3, Stand B110). Besonderheit des neuen Druckers ist die Eignung für Textildirektdruck und Direkttransferdruck – damit wird eine beispiellose Flexibilität bei Tintenkombinationen und Substraten erreicht, was profitable neue Geschäftschancen eröffnet.

Das neue Drucksystem stellt eine Weiterentwicklung des Mimaki TX300P-1800 dar, der um die Möglichkeit des Direkttransferdrucks ergänzt wurde. Druckdienstleister profitieren von der größeren Vielseitigkeit in Bezug auf Stoffe, Applikationen und Zielmärkte. Insbesondere kleinere Druckdienstleister erhalten die Möglichkeit, mit nur einem Drucksystem eine umfassende Palette von Textildruckanwendungen zu bieten. Entsprechend dem Komplettausstatter-Ansatz von Mimaki ist der Drucker kompatibel zu allen Mimaki-Geräten für Vorbehandlung, Dämpfen und Waschen.

At ITMA 2019 in Barcelona from June 20-26th, Goller will introduce the new Knit Merc for achieving the highest quality mercerization of knitted fabrics at the lowest tension and with under 3% variation in dimensional stability with high grade fabrics, for perfect dyeing results every time.

Mercerization is an essential textile finishing step for all cotton and cellulosic fibre-based fabrics in order to improve dye uptake and tear strength while reducing fabric shrinkage and imparting a silk-like lustre to the materials.

The Knit Merc is the result of intensive R&D developments at Goller and follows the successful introduction to the market of the company’s Sintensa Cyclone drum washing compartments for achieving the highest washing efficiency at the lowest tension.

The Knit Merc being exhibited at ITMA 2019 can accommodate 8.4 metres of fabric in its impregnation compartment and a further four metres in its first chain section to achieve a production speed of 25m/min at 30 seconds dipping time.

It is designed for dry-on-wet mercerizing, either cold or hot, and is equipped with an inlet combination of scroll and slat rollers for fabric guidance, a Tandematic uncurler in front of a rubberized de-airing roller and a grooved 320mm bottom roller with 320mm and 600mm perforated upper drums.

It benefits from automatic tension regulation and the low liquor content is ensured by the integrated lye tank and automatic circulation and filtration units.

An 8-ton high efficiency squeezer is stationed at the exit before the chain section and a 5-ton squeezer at the exit of the chain field.

Further fabric control and stability is provided by a cast iron pin chain with automatic optical and mechanical sensors, the Tandematic uncurler, an overfeed device and a driven belt arrangement for fabric support.

Mimaki, ein führender Hersteller von Inkjetdruckern und Schneideplottern, darf sich über zwei Auszeichnungen der European Digital Press Association (EDP) freuen, die auf der FESPA 2019 im Rahmen eines jährlich stattfindenden Wettbewerbs verliehen wurden. Die Textildruckmaschine Tiger-1800B MkII von Mimaki war der Star des Tages: Sie wurde als „bester Rolle-zu-Rolle-Textildrucker“ in der Kategorie „Druckgeschwindigkeit über 100 m²/h“ und als „beste Lösung für die Vor- und Nachbehandlung“ in der Komplettausstattung mit der Rimslow TR-Serie ausgezeichnet.

Für die 13. Verleihung der EDP Awards wurden über 100 Beiträge in fünf Hauptkategorien eingereicht, von denen 28 ausgezeichnet wurden. Die Gewinner wurden nach zahlreichen Kriterien, darunter Qualität, Anwendernutzen und Umweltverträglichkeit, von 20 führenden Fachzeitschriften der Digitaldruckbranche ausgewählt, die über eine halbe Million Leser in 25 europäischen Ländern zählen.

Der Tiger-1800B MkII, ein Mitglied der Tiger Pro-Familie, ist eine Textildruckmaschine für den Großserien-Direktdruck und -Transferdruck. Sie erreicht eine Druckgeschwindigkeit von bis zu 385 m²/h. Dank ihrer Vielseitigkeit, Geschwindigkeit und einer Auflösung von bis zu 1200 x 1200 dpi können Produkte ohne Kompromisse in höchster Qualität hergestellt werden. Sie verarbeitet Gewebe und Papier aller Art und ist für Tapisserien, Innendekor, Mode und eine Vielzahl anderer Druckerzeugnisse geeignet.

First showing of game-changing technology at a European tradeshow includes the recently launched Kornit Atlas, Kornit Avalanche Poly Pro and Kornit Presto
Kornit Digital (Nasdaq: KRNT), a worldwide market leader in digital textile printing technology, has announced details of its corporate presence at Fespa 2019 which will take place in Munich, Germany, May 14-17.

Kornit’s exhibit will focus on the game-changing technology that was unveiled in the beginning of the year and will now be on display for the first time in a tradeshow in Europe: the Kornit Atlas and the Kornit Avalanche Poly Pro. The presence will be complemented by a Kornit Storm HD6, a direct-to-fabric sample area featuring prints from Kornit’s upcoming Presto system and an installation of Colorgate’s Textile Production Server for Kornit.

The Kornit Atlas is a heavy-duty system created for super-industrial garment decoration businesses. It is designed to deliver a typical annual production capacity of up to 350,000 impressions, optimizing production efficiency and cost of ownership. The Kornit Atlas is aimed at highly productive garment decorators, mid to large size screen printers and innovative businesses looking to combine state-of-the art technology with lowest cost of ownership, making it easier than ever to address the requirements of leading and mid-sized brands, as well as new generation digital brands. The Kornit Atlas uses water-based Kornit NeoPigmentTM Eco-Rapid Inks which are eco-friendly, GOTS approved and OEKOTX certified, and serve as the main driver of the retail quality prints.

In unterschiedlichen Ausführungen, von Papier bis zu dickem Filz, dient das Material als Brandschutz in elektronischen Geräten, Sitzpolstern und anderen Anwendungen. GULFENG gibt es als dünnes Papier, gewebt, oder gefilzt.
 
Vom 14. bis 17. Mai 2019 präsentiert der japanische Materialtechnologie-Riese Toray die Funktionstextilien des Unternehmens auf der Techtextil in Frankfurt. Ein Highlight ist dabei das neue Flammschutzgewebe GULFENG, das hervorragende flammhemmende Eigenschaften besitzt und als Flammenbarriere dient. Das Gewebe ist in verschiedenen Ausführungen erhältlich und somit für ein breites Anwendungsspektrum geeignet.

Im Vergleich zu anderen flammhemmenden Materialien, die aus Glasfaser-, m- und p-Aramid- oder Ox-PAN-Filz bestehen, ist GULFENG leichter, dünner und flexibler. Die Papiervariante ist 0,06 mm dick und wiegt 60 g/m² – sie sieht wie normales Papier aus und fühlt sich auch so an. Zusätzlich kann das Material zu einem weichen Stoff gestrickt oder gewoben und zu biegsamen Matten gefilzt werden. Durch diese Vielfalt eigenet sich GULFENG für Batterien ebenso wie für Bettwäsche oder Bussitze.

Trotz der geringen Dicke büßt GULFENG seine flammhemmenden Eigenschaften nicht ein und dient als Flammenbarriere. Ein Feuer kann sich nicht ausbreiten oder umliegende brennbare Materialien entzündet. Um dies zu erreichen kombiniert Toray thermoplastisches Polyphenylensulfid (PPS) mit oxidierten Polyacrylnitrilfasern (OX-PAN). Erwärmt eine Flamme das Material auf 285°C, beginnen die PPS-Fasern zu schmelzen und bilden eine dünne Membran um die Ox-PAN-Fasern. Diese absorbieren Wärme und oxidieren, wodurch eine vollständig geschlossene Barriere gegen die Flammen entsteht. In Flugzeugen und Zügen wird GULFENG als Fammenbarriere in Sitzkissen verwendet.

FONG’S EUROPE, based in Schwäbisch Hall, Germany, will celebrate the 100th anniversary of its flagship THEN brand for advanced dyeing technology with a special reception for customers and agents at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona.

The company, which has been a member of the CHTC FONG’S group since 2004, has its origins in the German city of Chemnitz, where back in 1919 Rudolf Then founded a barrel-making business which soon branched out into piece dyeing machines.

The company’s reputation for innovation began early, with the introduction of ceramic linings for dye baths, which were then made of wood, in order to avoid staining and allow easy cleaning. At the end of the 1920s, Rudolf Then was also quick to recognise the acid-resistant advantages of stainless steel for dyeing vessels.

Relocating to West Germany after World War 2, Rudolf Then ran a number of businesses in Schwäbisch Hall, eventually founding THEN in 1955 with partner Karl Kurz, who later took over the business specialising in dye vats and other textile equipment.

Throughout the 1960s and 70s, the company continued to further improve its technologies, but it was the introduction of the first THEN AIRFLOW system at ITMA 1983 in Milan which significantly boosted the company’s fortunes, representing a milestone in the development of dyeing machines.

Prior to this, the dyeing of just one kilo of fabric required around 150 litres of water and THEN’s AIRFLOW system, invented by engineer Wilhelm Christ and colleagues, drastically reduced the requirement to between just 35-40 litres. Instead of the traditional dye liquor used for hydraulic fabric transport it efficiently distributed much smaller amounts of dye liquor via aerosol. This technology has subsequently been further developed in successive machine models and has made an enormous impact on sustainable dyeing operations.

Now, as FONG’S EUROPE, the company continues to innovate, and at ITMA 2019 is showcasing the THEN SMARTFLOW TSF hydraulic high temperature dyeing machine, designed to achieve the lowest possible energy and water consumption rates available on the market for jet dyeing.

The company has a number of patents pending on the innovative new features of this machine, including the SMARTFLOW’s fabric transport design. This is based on a smart, winchless fabric transport system which eliminates the need for a loading rope, and a circular plaiter with programmable rotation speeds which provides full filling of the drop zone.

Its newly-developed nozzles and reel-less transport, in combination with smart controlled circular plaiting and variable chamber adjustment, provide even fabric treatment without entanglements and the highest loading capacity with the lowest kier volume

“Further developments, including the new THEN AIRFLOW PLUS system with a round design are in the development pipeline and will once again result in further reductions in power consumption without sacrificing performance,” says FONG’s Europe Sales Director Richard Fander. “Similar innovations are being made to our hydraulic long shape machine, the THEN SUPRATEC LTM. The ability to transport fabrics with reduced tension and without the need for a transport winch which is being introduced on all of our recent machines will allow new fabrics to be created and further increase the efficiency of textile finishing.

Fong’s Europe will be at stand D101 in Hall 2 at ITMA 2019.