From the Sector

From February 8th to 11th, 2023, the third edition of IFCO, Istanbul Fashion Connection will take place in the Istanbul Exhibition Center.

The fair with over 600 exhibitors in 9 halls gives an overview of the new collections in the areas of womenswear, menswear, kidswear, denim, shoes, leather & furs. Separate platforms at IFCO are LinExpo for lingerie and hosiery and FashionIST with a wide range of wedding dresses, evening wear and suits. IFCO Sourcing, a new area at IFCO, offers the opportunity to find numerous companies for sourcing capacities.

Also new is the partnership with Igedo Exhibitions, Düsseldorf, which is responsible for the EUROPEAN SELECTION area at IFCO. International fashion labels present themselves at the fair as part of this participation.

More than 25,000 visitors from over 100 nations from all sales channels, from department stores and boutiques to online platforms from Eastern Europe, the Central Asian markets and the Arabian Gulf region, alongside buyers from Türkiye are expected at the show.

The declared goal of the organizers is to offer a "one-stop shopping solution" with IFCO that shows the creativity of the Turkish fashion scene, enables access to new sales markets and at the same time establishes the connection to potential production partners for supply chain optimization. The competitive advantages of production in Türkiye are evident:
short delivery times, high production quality, young and well-trained employees, the possibility of small minimum order quantities, a vertical textile and clothing industry that allows "one-stop shopping".

The manufacturing sector is an important sector for the industry, with over 80% of companies in Türkiye engaged in this sector. Türkiye has the fastest economic growth among the G20 after Saudi Arabia at 7.6% year-on-year in the second quarter of 2022, according to the Turkish Statistics Authority. Export is one of the most important pillars of growth.

The trade fair concept is being supported by the government with several programs. These include the cooperation with IMA, Istanbul ModaAkademisi, which regularly produces design talents becoming an integral part of the international fashion scene. IMA was founded in 2007 by ITKIB / IHKIB with the help of the IPA I program ((IPA: Instrument for Pre Accession Funds, provided by the EU for the EU candidate countries). Young design talents are brought to the stage at IFCO in cooperation with the ‘’Koza Young Fashion Designers Contest’’.

First insights, first new materials and trend highlights: On 29 and 30 November 2022, the European premium fabric sector will meet for an important exchange with international producers at VIEW in Munich to find out about the first colour and material trends for spring/summer 2024 at the earliest possible time. A selected range of around 300 pre-collections will be on show at the MVG Museum. This means that VIEW will once again be strong and business-relevant this season.

The past VIEW Premium Selection in June 2022 was a great success. Completely booked out and more international than ever, the Preview Textile Show of Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH was an important contact point for the buying and design teams of companies such as Akris, Baldessarini, Bogner, Calvin Klein, Cinque, Comma, Drykorn, Escada, Hugo Boss, Lala Berlin, Lagerfeld, Laurél, MAC, Marc Cain, Marc O'Polo, Riani, Schumacher or Strellson. The trend towards an increasingly international range continues in November. Numerous buyers, designers and product managers from European ready-to-wear manufacturers are expected in Munich the week after next, looking for new material innovations and trends at VIEW and the parallel ISPO.

International exhibitor portfolio with many new names
Material influences from Europe to Asia bring a highly exciting mix for the trend research of the new collections. Exhibitors from Bulgaria, China, Denmark, Germany, France, Great Britain, Greece, Hong Kong, Italy, Japan, Korea, Spain and Turkey are among the participants.

The newcomers and returnees include, in addition to others:
AGNSTR / ALA CAMPOLMI / BAIRD MC NUTT / BELL & THUNDER / CB STILE / COLORA / EKOTEN / FABRIC LAB / GUARISCO / JECA LIMITED / KING BUTTON / LANIFICIO CAVERNI / LIMONATA EAST / M.T.T. MANIFATTURA / MANTERO / MILIOR / MTP PIEROZZI / PADROCASAS / PIZVAL / RIBBONTEX / SITIP / TEKSTINA SINCE 1828 / TEXMODA / VIVOLO und WAY.

Freudenberg Performance Materials Apparel (Freudenberg) as a leading specialist in woven, knitted and non-woven interlinings and thermal insulation, presents sustainable solutions for sportswear and related product segments of all kinds in Munich.

Trade show visitors will experience a wide range of innovative and sustainable interlinings for active sports outfits, stretch interlinings for yoga wear, Pilates & Co, and thermal insulations that combine perfect outdoor wearing comfort with high warmth retention. With comfortemp® brand thermal insulations and the Active Range, Freudenberg presents a complete package for outdoor and sportswear for winter sports: thermal insulations, interlinings, tapes, lining fabrics and adhesive solutions.

The independent jury has nominated the 100 percent biodegradable thermal insulation comfortemp® nature Lyocell HO 60x, made from Lyocell regenerated fibers, for the Textrends Award fall/winter 2024/25 season. The award is given exclusively to innovative products that are groundbreaking for the development of the textile industry. comfortemp® nature Lyocell HO 60x has a variety of extraordinary performance characteristics as a high warmth retention, bacteria inhibiting and fast drying, furthermore water repellent. High wearing comfort and the assurance of a perfect moisture balance characterize the volume fleece as ideal for the application in sportswear.

Freudenberg is presenting its entire European and global product portfolio from its "House of Sustainability" at ISPO. The "House of Sustainability" supports Freudenberg in minimizing its ecological footprint and maximizing its ecological handprint. For this purpose, the company's own manufacturing processes are designed to minimize the impact on the environment. In addition, products are developed to help customers produce more sustainably.

adidas and RIMOWA have come together to announce their inaugural capsule collection that seeks to offer explorers of the world the perfect tools to navigate and escape the cities of today.

Exclusively made in Germany, the cross-category collection features two contemporary designs: RIMOWA’s first-ever aluminium backpack and the ADIDAS NMD_S1 sneaker.

The RIMOWA x ADIDAS NMD_BACKPACK boasts new technical solutions that makes it suitable for outdoor needs and overnight trips. Made from RIMOWA’s signature grooved aluminium, it features a number of thoughtful functionalities, from padded utility shoulder straps fitted with a carabin and thumb loops to rope weight-bearing straps and grab handle. The piece also features foam ridges inspired by ADIDAS Boost foam overlaying the backpack’s grooved surface to ensure comfort, as well as an elasticated webbing running through its middle to secure the backpack onto the suitcase’s telescopic tubes. To allow for flat packing, a detachable gusset opens the backpack to reveal two deep zipped pockets, as well as a 16-inch laptop pocket inscribed with both brands’ logos.

The RIMOWA x ADIDAS NMD_S1 iteration features the futuristic sneaker’s signature Primeknit uppers in a titanium-inspired colourway, with the flexible ADIDAS Boost midsole in a light, almost translucent base colour.

The launch of the third edition of the Imagining Sustainable Fashion Award started on October 27, 2022. The Imagining Sustainable Fashion Award (ISFA) is the international competition born out of the collaboration between Connecting Cultures, the foundation that guides the Out of Fashion platform, and C.L.A.S.S., an international eco-hub that since 2007 has been advocating for a new generation of fashion in which the union of design, innovation, communication, and responsibility shapes a conscious and competitive business, capable of playing both an economic and social role.

The Imagining Sustainable Fashion Award invites stylists, photographers, designers, illustrators and artists to create visual imagery, a project that highlights awareness, respect for people and the planet that define the values of sustainable fashion in the fashion system.

Award submissions will be examined by an international jury composed of:

• Anna Detheridge, Founder and President, Connecting Cultures
• Giusy Bettoni, CEO and Founder, C.L.A.S.S.
• Rita Airaghi, Steering Advisor, Gianfranco Ferré Research Center
• Paola Arosio, Head of New Brands & Sustainability Projects, Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana
• Jeanine Ballone Managing Director, Fashion 4 Development
• Evie Evangelou, Founder and President, Fashion 4 Development
• Sara Kozlowski, Vice President of Program Strategies, Education, and Sustainability Initiatives, Council of Fashion Designers of America
• Dio Kurazawa, Founding Partner, The Bear Scouts
• Renata Molho, journalist, former editor-in-chief of L'Uomo Vogue and former editor-at-large of L'Uomo Vogue, Vogue Italia, Casa Vogue
• Stefania Ricci, Director, Museo Salvatore Ferragamo
• Jovana Vukoje, Senior New Brands Specialist, Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana

The winning projects of past editions were Take a Walk on the Green Side by Emma Scalcon (2021 - Italy) and Fashion Affair by Vishal Tolambia (2022 - India), two very different works that highlighted how challenging sustainability issues are in the contemporary communication landscape.

The deadline for submissions is Wednesday, January 25, 2023.
The winner will be announced in March 2023 and will receive a cash prize of €3,000.00.

• Patented SILASTIC™ LCF 9600 M Textile Printing Ink Base addresses growing demand for improved performance in textile applications

With the continued global growth of the apparel market, the use of polyester, nylon and blends of these materials with elastane is also on the rise, especially in sportswear and loungewear. To support this higher demand for synthetic textiles, Dow is launching a patented silicone ink – SILASTIC™ LCF 9600 M Textile Printing Ink Base – that can be used for printing on synthetic and cotton fabrics, particularly highly elastic garments.

The increased use of synthetic yarns in recent years has resulted in greater performance requirements on ink chemistries such as durability, elongation and ease of use in highly elastic sportwear. To address these needs, Dow leveraged the exceptional benefits of silicone ink bases with products such as SILASTIC™ LCF 9600 Textile Printing Ink Base and SILASTIC™ 9601 Textile Printing Ink Base.

Designed for an increased matte effect and improved hand feel, the patented SILASTIC™ LCF 9600 M offers excellent wash durability, high elongation, very soft low tack touch and avoids the “orange peel effect” on cotton substrates. Additionally, SILASTIC™ LCF 9600 M enables safer textile development with its ability to be formulated without the use of PVC, phthalates, solvents, organotins and formaldehyde.

After a thorough review, the company has taken the decision to terminate the partnership with Ye immediately, end production of Yeezy branded products and stop all payments to Ye and his companies. adidas will stop the adidas Yeezy business with immediate effect.

adidas will not tolerate antisemitism and any other sort of hate speech. Ye’s recent comments and actions have been "unacceptable, hateful and dangerous", and they violate the company’s values of diversity and inclusion, mutual respect and fairness, as adidas declares.

This is expected to have a short-term negative impact of up to €250 million on the company’s net income in 2022 given the high seasonality of the fourth quarter.

adidas is the sole owner of all design rights to existing products as well as previous and new colorways under the partnership. More information will be given as part of the company’s upcoming Q3 earnings announcement on November 9, 2022.

Die Hochschule Luzern HSLU hat zusammen mit Wirtschaftspartnern Methoden entwickelt, wie sich Alttextilien wieder zu hochwertigen Pullis, Arbeitskleidern oder Teppichen verarbeiten lassen.

Einem Bericht von WWF und PWC zur Folge sind in einem durchschnittlichen Schweizer Schrank 118 Kleidungsstücke, wobei ein Outfit – bestehend aus Pulli, Hose und T-Shirt – mit 1.5 Kilo zu Buche schlägt. Pro Tag landen 70’000 dieser Outfits oder 100 Tonnen in der Altkleidersammlung. Tendenz steigend.

Etwa die Hälfte der Altkleider wird weiterverkauft und exportiert. "Wie groß der Anteil an tatsächlich weitergenutzten Kleidungsstücken ist, ist nicht einfach zu beziffern", sagt Designforscherin Tina Tomovic von der Hochschule Luzern. Sicher ist laut der Expertin für textile Nachhaltigkeit, dass ein immer größerer Teil zu minderwertigen Produkten wie Putzlappen verarbeitet oder direkt verbrannt wird. Das Material dieser Textilien verschwindet damit unwiederbringlich aus dem Wertstoff-Kreislauf.

Dabei gilt die Textilindustrie als äusserst ressourcenintensiv. Textilien stehen gemäß eines Nachhaltigkeits-Aktionsplans der EU beim Verbrauch von Rohstoffen und Wasser an vierter Stelle, nach der Lebensmittelherstellung, dem Wohnungsbau und dem Verkehr. Baumwolle beispielsweise benötigt nicht nur viel Land zum Wachsen, sondern auch sehr viel Wasser. Die Alternative, synthetische Textilien, ist nicht besser, wie Tina Tomovic ergänzt. Sie basieren meistens auf Erdöl – einer endlichen Ressource.

Auf der Suche nach dem reinen Stoff
Für die HSLU-Forscherin ist klar: "Wir müssen unsere alten Kleider viel besser wiederverwerten als bisher und so den textilen Kreislauf schließen." Ein geschlossener Kreislauf bedeutet, dass alte Pullis oder T-Shirts nicht verbrannt oder zu Lappen verarbeitet werden, sondern zu neuer Kleidung – die dann wieder im Laden landet. Wie dieses Recycling funktionieren könnte, erforschten Tomovic und ihr Team gemeinsam mit Unternehmen aus der Textilindustrie im Projekt «Texcircle».

Oft bestehen Textilien aus verschiedenen Materialien, beispielsweise Baumwolle vermischt mit Polyester. Das macht das Recycling aufwändig. Denn das Material muss möglichst rein sein, um zu einem vielseitig verwendbaren Garn weiterverarbeitet werden zu können; «wild durcheinander gewürfelte Textilien», so Tomovic, nützten gar nichts.

Zweieinhalb Tonnen Material verarbeitet
Das Projektteam nahm daher die gesamte Recycling-Prozesskette unter die Lupe, vom Sammeln der Alttextilien übers Sortieren und dem anschließenden maschinellen Zerkleinern bis hin zum Spinnen des so gewonnenen Rohstoffs zu neuen Garnen und Vliesen. Die verwendeten Alttextilien – insgesamt 2.5 Tonnen Material – stammten größtenteils aus den Sammlungen des Textilverwerters Texaid. Eine zentrale Rolle im Projekt spielten nationale und internationale Wirtschaftspartner, welche die Fasern, Garne und Vliese zu Produkten verarbeiteten.

Namhafte Partner im In- und Ausland
Ein einzelnes Unternehmen wird den Herausforderungen einer funktionierenden Kreislaufwirtschaft nicht begegnen können – dies war eine der Schlussfolgerung aus dem Vorgängerprojekt «Texcycle», in welchem die Forschenden auf das Sammeln und Sortieren von Alttextilien fokussierten. Daher wurde für das Nachfolgeprojekt der "Texcircle-Cluster", bestehend aus Schweizer und internationalen Unternehmen im Bereich Textilfertigung und -recycling, gegründet. Die Projektpartner steuerten Know-how, Eigenleistung, finanzielle Beiträge und Materialspenden bei.

Die Partner aus der Industrie waren Coop, Rieter, Rohner Socks, Ruckstuhl, Texaid und Workfashion.
Texcircle wurde von der schweizerischen Agentur für Innovationsförderung Innosuisse unterstützt.

Die Tests in den Fabrikhallen der einzelnen Partnerunternehmen bezeichnet Tina Tomovic als «Reality Checks». Mehr als einmal musste das Team beim Bearbeiten des Materials feststellen, dass die Theorie in der Praxis nicht immer umsetzbar ist, wie sie erzählt: "Alte Kissen und Bettdecken sind aus einer Materialperspektive zwar sehr interessant für das Recycling. Eine effiziente und kostengünstige Verarbeitung der Waren ist heute aber noch nicht möglich."

Höhepunkt des zweijährigen Projektes war die Produktion mehrerer Prototypen auf der Basis von Alttextilien. Beispielsweise produzierte die Winterthurer Firma Rieter aus alten Jeanshosen Garn für einen Pullover. Der Zuger Arbeitsbekleidungsproduzent Workfashion wiederum verarbeitete alte Kissen und Bettdeckenfüllungen zu Isolationsfutter für Arbeitswesten – die Produktqualität musste im Rahmen des Projektes stets gleich hoch sein wie bei vergleichbaren Textilien im Laden.

Die Firma Ruckstuhl im bernischen Langenthal entwickelte einen Recycling-Teppich für den Wohnbereich. Das Garn dafür stammt zur Hälfte von getragenen Wollmänteln. «Wir haben schon länger nach Mitteln gesucht, wie wir im Betrieb einen weiteren Schritt in Richtung Nachhaltigkeit gehen können», sagt Ruckstuhls Geschäftsführer Adrian Berchtold. Das Projekt sei somit genau zur richtigen Zeit gekommen. Er erläutert: "Die Projektresultate zwangen uns, zu hinterfragen, welche Produktionsschritte für diesen neuen Teppich nachhaltig sind und welche nicht."

Berchtold überraschte insbesondere die Erkenntnis, dass das Waschen von alten Mänteln mit Wasser umweltschädlicher ist als mit Chemikalien: "Der Wasserverbrauch war einfach zu hoch. Paradoxerweise ist es in diesem Fall ressourcenschonender, die Textilien mit Ozon zu reinigen." Ruckstuhl plant, den Recycling-Teppich ab Mitte 2023 in kleiner Serie herzustellen.

Just ahead of the fall season, adidas Originals and Pharrell Williams return to launch an array of new colors of their gender-neutral Humanrace Premium Basics Collection. The FW22 drop features a premium, heavyweight jersey crafted from cotton from Better Cotton, which supports more sustainable cotton farming. Designs are punctuated with the signature puff-print logo execution and large ‘Humanrace’ chest branding on select pieces.

The collection comprises the PW Basics Tee, PW Basics Short, PW Basics Hoodie, PW Basics Pant, PW Basics Crew , and PW Basics Long Sleeve Tee. Each item is available in sizes ranging from 3XS-2XL and in seven colors chosen by Pharrell, including Night Grey, Alumina, Light  Grey Heather, Linen Green, Halo Blue, Almost Pink, and Almost Yellow.

Launched this September, the new Horizon Europe project CISUTAC will support the transition to a circular and sustainable textile sector. As part of a consortium of 27 partners working on the project, TEXAID will among others support the project with sorting, disassembly and repair trials.

The production and consumption of textile products continue to grow, together with their impact on the environment, due to a lack of reuse, repair and recycling of materials. Quality, durability, and recyclability are often not being set as priorities in the design and manufacturing of clothing (EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles, March 2022).  

CISUTAC aims to remove current bottlenecks in order to increase textile circularity in Europe. The objective is to minimise the sector’s total environmental impact by developing sustainable, novel, and inclusive large-scale European value chains.  

The project will cover most parts of the textile sector by working on two material groups representing almost 90% of all textile fibre materials (polyester, and cotton/cellulosic fibres), and focusing on products from three sub-sectors experiencing varying circularity bottlenecks (fashion garments, sports and outdoor goods, and workwear).  

CISUTAC will follow a holistic approach covering the technical, sectoral and socio-economic aspects, and will perform three pilots to demonstrate the feasibility and value of:

• Repair and disassembly
• Sorting (for reuse and recycling)
• Circular garments through fibre-to-fibre recycling and design for circularity

To realise these pilots, the consortium partners will:

• Develop semi-automated workstations
• Analyse the infrastructure and material flows
• Digitally enhance sorting operations (for reuse and recycling)
• Raise awareness among the consumers and the textile industry

As part of the CISUTAC consortium, TEXAID, will conduct different trials of sorting, repair, and disassembly, and be active in the LCA and Standardisation work packages.