From the Sector

Archroma and Browzwear, a company of 3D digital solutions for the fashion industry, have expanded their partnership to bring the complete Color Atlas by Archroma® library of colors to Browzwear’s VSticher, Lotta and Stylezone platforms.

Designers will now have access to a total of 5,760 color references, with 1,440 colors for polyester added to Browzwear’s existing color library of 4,320 Color Atlas colors for cotton poplin. This will support them to collaborate across the entire supply chain, ensuring color consistency from digital design to production for cotton, polyester and blends.

Crucially, the color references in the Color Atlas by Archroma® have been formulated to comply with leading international eco-standards, allowing designers to select dyes and finishes that meet their desired sustainability profile. Each color is available as a physical color standard that includes precise dyeing recipes and compliance data, as well as access to expert technical support from Archroma around the world.

Monforts' new Montex 8500 stenter line was recently installed at Curt Bauer’s plant in Aue in Germany.

Curt Bauer has been in continuous operation for 150 years, beginning as a weaving mill in Aue in the Ore Mountains region of Saxony back in 1882. Today, with 120 employees, the company has an annual production of 2.2 million metres of fabric and specialises in three key fields – home textiles, special damask fabrics for West African garments and technical textiles.

A first Montex stenter was installed by Monforts at the Aue plant in 2003 and an older machine from a third party supplier was also still in operation prior to the latest upgrade.
“The replacement of our older existing stenter, which was installed in 1985, was long overdue,” explains Gert Bauer. “It had a maximum working width of 2.2 metres and we were looking to both increase productivity and reduce energy requirements.”

As a consequence, the company opted for a new Montex 8500 line with a working width of 3.2 metres equipped with the MonforClean heat recovery and exhaust air purification system. The Montex stenter remains unmatched in terms of its robustness and long service life and with MonforClean technology, the waste heat from the drying process is used to pre-heat the drying air. This results in a radical reduction in the conventional heat supply required, compared to full gas and thermal oil heating. Overall energy savings of up to 40% can now be achieved compared to conventional stenters.

The first challenge at the Aue plant was how to fit the significantly larger machine into the available space without restricting the area required for docking operations.

The special multi-level configuration that Monforts designers and Curt Bauer’s team devised in order to meet these requirements involved raising all of the line’s drying zones – with a combined length of over 28 metres – on scaffolding platforms, to enable the ground floor space below them to continue to be fully utilised.

The next challenge involved configuring the MonforClean system without having to make any costly changes to the roofing structure. This, Gert Bauer observes, demanded “millimetre precision”.

With the new line now fully operational, the savings it is providing have yet to be fully calculated.

Santoni Shanghai Knitting Machinery Co., Ltd. announces that it has received regulatory approval from Chinese authorities for its proposed acquisition of Terrot GmbH, a manufacturer of circular knitting machines in Germany.

The acquisition represents a pivotal step in Santoni's strategy to advance the circular knitting machine industry. The integration of Terrot into the Santoni ecosystem is projected to increase Santoni's production capacity and boost its market share, and in conjunction with other strategic objectives, firmly solidify Santoni's position as the leading manufacturer in the industry, with unrivaled scale, depth of innovation and expertise.

Seeking to meet rising demand for high-end circular knitting products, Santoni has pursued an Ecosystem Strategy in recent years, aiming to unify a highly fragmented industry and enhance innovation, sustainability and digitalization to more effectively meet market needs. The deployment of both parties' latest innovation practices, textile automation offerings, integrated enterprise services, C2M solutions, and a platform for designers "Materialliance", will allow Santoni Shanghai and Terrot to connect and bridge demand and offer of circular knitted products.

By incorporating Terrot's offerings, particularly in the double jersey and jacquard sector, Santoni stands to gain a competitive edge in offering machines known for their performance, low maintenance, and cost-effectiveness. Highlighting this shift is Terrot's UCC 572-T, a transfer jacquard machine for sports and leisurewear.

Following the acquisition, Terrot will continue to operate under the leadership of managing directors Robert W. Czajkowski and Dirk Lange. Santoni plans to maintain Terrot’s headquarters in Chemnitz, Germany, along with its facilities, brands, and practices.

Hexcel will continue to celebrate its 75th anniversary and highlight its latest developments for the Marine market at METSTRADE 2023 on November 15-17. Hexcel will showcase innovative advanced lightweight material technologies including new intermediate and high modulus fiber HexPly® M79 prepregs and present example high-performance superyacht and windship components developed by customers using Hexcel materials.

The new intermediate modulus prepreg combines the low temperature curing and simple processing of the DNV GL accredited HexPly M79 resin system with the market-leading stiffness of HexTow® IM2C fiber, creating a uniquely optimized composite material for highly loaded components. Originally developed to provide best-in-class performance for America’s Cup and IMOCA hull and deck structures, the new combination minimizes structural deformation under load in parts such as rigs, foils, and other appendages.

For a high modulus solution, HexTow® HM54 fiber is also now available with the HexPly M79 resin system. The unique mechanical properties of HexTow HM54 fiber allow structural designers to achieve higher safety margins for both stiffness and strength critical applications. Both products can be manufactured with Hexcel G-Vent technology for out-of-autoclave processing, delivering a reduction in process time and cost without compromising mechanical performance.

Hexcel will also display customer products that have benefited from the performance and processing gains provided by HexPly materials. A section of a Solid Sail mast made using Bureau Veritas (BV)-approved HexPly® M9.6 prepregs will be exhibited at METS. Such masts are used for wind propulsion and, by harnessing the power of ocean winds, they reduce reliance on engines, reducing fuel usage and emissions.

Visitors to the Hexcel booth will also see a section of a radar arch part from luxury motor yacht builder Sunseeker made using HexPly® XF surfacing technology and HexPly® SuperFIT semi-pregs. The part is lighter in weight and stiffer than versions made using resin-infusion processes and de-molds with a pinhole-free surface that needs minimal preparation to be ready for painting. Sunseeker has recorded an overall reduction in process time and material costs of around 30% against traditional prepreg parts, using Hexcel composite materials.

Archroma and Shima Seiki have expanded their partnership to bring the industry’s largest library of colors for cotton and polyester to the SDS®-ONE APEX design, planning and virtual sampling system and APEXFiz® (hereafter SDS®-ONE APEX series) subscription software.

Now offering a total of 5,760 color references, SDS-ONE APEX series has added all 1,440 colors for polyester from The Color Atlas by Archroma® to its color library of 4,320 Color Atlas colors for cotton poplin. The new polyester collection ranges from neutral earth tones to vibrant jewel tones and on-trend fluorescent colors, with shades suitable for sportswear, fashion, home furnishings, automotive textiles and more.

The extended color library in SDS®-ONE APEX series will help designers and manufacturers to visualize and evaluate their design choices on realistic fabric simulations and then put them into production with dyes and finishes that meet their desired sustainability profile. The Shima Seiki system also offers a smooth transition to machine programming for quick and accurate production, reduced waste and accelerated time to market.

Each of the 5,760 Color Atlas color references in the SDS®-ONE APEX series design software is available as a physical color standard that includes precise dyeing recipes and compliance data, as well as access to expert technical support from Archroma around the world.

“Polyester remains the most popular choice across many textile segments where high performance is a must. Users of Shima Seiki’s advanced SDS®-ONE APEX series platform will now be able to select from the industry’s largest library of colors for both cotton and polyester and, more importantly, trust that their choice can be reliably executed,” Chris Hipps, Head of Strategic Business Development, Archroma Color Management, said.

“Our colors are formulated with dyes that comply with international eco-standards and work with Archroma’s groundbreaking coloration systems, like FAST SPORT,” he continued.

PrimaLoft, Inc., a leader in advanced material technology, is expanding its  Active Insulation Range by adding four new Active Evolve styles, reaffirming its commitment to providing cutting-edge solutions that meet the evolving needs of consumers.

Originally launched in 2018, PrimaLoft Active Evolve is a line of insulating fabrics that is designed to evolve performance, design, and sustainability. Combining the lightweight warmth of insulation with the breathability of fabric, this technology is developed to perform in a wide range of activities, regardless of intensity or season. From pushing yourself during a cross country ski tour, to working up a sweat hiking to the next peak, PrimaLoft Active Evolve keeps you in your comfort zone – even when you’re pushing yourself out of it.

Several products in the Active Evolve line can be used as a next-to-skin fabric. This enables brands to forego liner fabrics, which means heat and moisture are more efficiently managed, breathability is supported, and user comfort is maintained. In addition to achieving optimal performance during aerobic activity, this yields a wider utility and year-round use, all while allowing brands to use less overall material when designing a garment, reducing footprint and waste.

PrimaLoft Active Evolve offers several advantages to designers. It enables them to utilize the full spectrum of color, incorporate unique patterns, and provides greater flexibility in fabric selection. Additionally, Active Evolve eliminates the need for quilting in the design process. Products within the Active Evolve line are made from up to 100% post-consumer recycled content, including three of the four new styles.

With more than a dozen brand adoptions thus far, PrimaLoft Active Evolve’s adaptability for the user, range of use across activities, and seasonal timing, is quickly making this one of the most versatile products in the PrimaLoft portfolio. For Fall/Winter 2023-2024, key partner brands beside Sitka and Löffler will include CP Company, Eddie Bauer, Endura, Martini Sportswear, OMM, Quiksilver, Ziener and more.

Archroma is bringing the entire portfolio of 5,760 Archroma Color Atlas colors to swatchbook, a platform for material digitalization and sourcing.

The new partnership provides fashion, apparel and textile designers and manufacturers with an elevated standard for color accuracy that meets the needs of today’s increasingly technology-driven and integrated supply chain. This will help the textile and fashion community to improve sustainability, whilst lowering costs and shortening turnaround times.

The Color Atlas by Archroma® was launched in 2016 to provide fashion designers and stylists with off-the-shelf color inspiration that can be implemented in production with just a few clicks.

Designers will use the 5,760 Archroma Color Atlas colors on swatchbook to rapidly develop accurate digital colorways and visualize their final product. They can then share these digital swatches with their manufacturing partners, providing access to the swatchbook metadata, which can include information such as the materials’ composition, weight and color.

This will streamline the overall design and production process for color-critical fashion and textile products, allowing for faster turnaround. Digital materials supported by trusted coloration technology also reduce the need for samples and eliminate physical swatchbooks, bringing environmental benefits and lower costs to brands and suppliers.

All 5,760 Color Atlas by Archroma® colors are now available free of charge to subscribers on the swatchbook platform.

Trevira CS is exhibiting for the first time at CSI Miami (Cruise Ship Interiors Design Expo Americas). Taking place on 6 – 7 June, 2023 at the Miami Beach Convention Center, CSI will bring together buyers and suppliers involved in cruise ship interiors, including interior designers, architects, outfitters, shipyards and suppliers.
 
On the Trevira CS stand, visitors can get an idea of the wide range of flame retardant fabrics suitable for use on board cruise ships. 53 fabrics from 20 Trevira CS customers will be on display that either have IMO certification and/or have been tested to the fire safety standards (FTP Code) required in the marine sector. Trevira CS fabrics are inherently flame retardant, meaning that their flame retardant properties cannot be washed out or lost through aging or use. This is due to the chemical structure of the polyester fiber: the flame retardant properties are firmly anchored in the fiber and cannot be altered by external influences. A surface-applied flame retardant finish is therefore not necessary.

In the marine sector, the demands placed on textiles are not only high in terms of fire protection, but also with regards to light resistance and durability. This is particularly true for textiles used in outdoor applications. These must be extremely robust, as they are exposed to moisture and sunlight. To meet these requirements, Trevira CS has launched a range of 30 new spun-dyed, UV-stable filament yarns. Besides color depth and durability, spun-dyed yarns offer another advantage: They are more sustainable because the fabrics made from them can be produced in a more environmentally friendly way than textiles that are dyed in one piece or consist of brightly colored yarns. In fabric production, a large share of resource consumption goes to the dyeing and finishing of fabrics as well as the use of chemicals and water. However, with spun-dyed yarns, these processing steps are unnecessary – the yarn immediately comes out of the spinneret in the desired color, reducing the products’ environmental impact.

The topic of sustainability is also taken up in other Trevira CS products. For example, Trevira CS fabrics are available in recycled versions. They consist of fiber and filament yarns obtained in different recycling processes. Filament yarns are produced using recycled PET bottles, they contain 50% post-consumer recycled material. Recycled fibers are obtained using an agglomeration plant and in further processing steps from residual pre-consumer waste from production. They consist of 100% recycled material (pre-consumer recycling). All flame retardant recycled Trevira® products are GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified.
Fabrics made from these yarns are marked with the Trevira CS eco trademark. The prerequisite for this is a recycled content of at least 50%. Among the fabrics presented at the Trevira CS trade fair stand are 8 fabrics bearing the Trevira CS eco brand.

The long-term goal in developing sustainable products is undoubtedly to enter a circular economy. For this new path, an innovative Trevira CS product development was launched, producing flame retardant fibers and filament yarns from chemically recycled raw material. In this case, the basic raw material for the chemical recycling was PET bottles, but essentially it could be most any other PET recyclables, such as packaging material or even textiles. Chemical recycling involves depolymerization, a sequence of chemical reactions in which the polymer chains are broken down again into their original components, i. e. the monomers. In a further processing step, impurities are removed. Before the polymerization process is initiated, a small amount of MEG (mono ethylene glycol) is added.

The same technology used to produce the original (virgin) raw material for Trevira CS is also used here. The flame retardant modification is added during polymerization. In this way, the flame retardant properties are indelibly anchored in the polymer.

By recycling valuable materials such as packaging material, waste can be avoided. The raw material obtained from the recycling process is comparable to the original material can be used again in high-quality products.

A total of 20 European fashion and design schools took part in the 2nd “Fashioning Sustainability” competition organized by Freudenberg Performance Materials together with Macpi and Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei, two co-branding partners in the textile industry.

Freudenberg invited talented young designers to create and submit their ideas for sustainable clothing. The initiative aims to show that sustainability is a key factor in the fashion industry.

Two of the most innovative outfits from each school were selected for the final round and presented to an international jury at the “Bagni Misteriosi” event location in Milan in May. Fashion design experts and opinion leaders as well as journalists were invited to select the most sustainable designs in the categories of “Technology” and “Design”.

The winners
First place in the “Technology” category went to Judith Marquant while the second to Jagoda Sokolowska, both students of the fashion school Esmod in Paris. Ilaria De Martino, from the fashion institute Modartech, Italy, and Xiaodan Liao from Polimoda, Italy, were awarded first and second place in the “Design” category. The first-place winners received €2,000, while the second places won €1,000.

All participants benefited from the platform to network with leading players in the garment industry and learn more about concrete steps for embracing sustainability. Creating true sustainability in the fashion industry means reducing the material flow of clothing, addressing both sustainable production and consumption.

Members of the Jury:
Cristiano Zanetti, Sales Director Italy, Freudenberg Performance Materials
Maurizio Cazzin, Male Modeller, Maison Giorgio Armani
Riccardo Bullio, Apparel Industrial Division Director, Dolce & Gabbana
Caterina Cuoghi, Industrial Director, Area NYC
Simone Bigi, Style and Product Office Manager FAY line, Gruppo TOD’S
Roberto Cibin, Model and Pattern Development Manager, Caruso
Bruno Landi, Sales Director, Vitale Barberis Canonico
Luisella Allegretti, Pattern Designer Boss MW Business Specialist, Hugo Boss
Eugenio Balordi, Product Manager, Maison Margiela
Ettore Pellegrini, Sales and Marketing Manager, Asahi Kasei Fibers Italia

SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan, together with its Hong Kong subsidiary SHIMA SEIKI (HONG KONG) LTD., will participate in the 40th Session of SPINEXPO in Shanghai, China from 12th - 14th April 2023.

At SPINEXPO, SHIMA SEIKI will offer visitors a choice between its "SDS®-ONE APEX4" apparel design system and its "APEXFiz®" subscription-based design software. Whereas SDS®-ONE APEX4 is offered as an all-in-one proprietary hardware + software package, APEXFiz® is subscription-based design software that can be installed on customers' individual computers. Both SDS®-ONE APEX4 and APEXFiz® software support the creative side of fashion from planning and design to colorway evaluation, realistic fabric simulation and 3D virtual sampling. Virtual samples are a digitized version of sample making that are accurate enough to be used effectively as prototypes, replacing physical sampling and consequently reducing time, cost and material that otherwise go to waste. When a design is approved for production, knitting data is automatically generated for converting to machine data, allowing smooth communication for digitally bridging the gap between studio and factory. APEXFiz® thereby helps to realize sustainability while digitally transforming the fashion supply chain.

Also on display at SPINEXPO will be SHIMA SEIKI's "yarnbank®," an online web service for searching and viewing the latest yarns, developed with cooperation from yarn companies from around the world. Registered users can download yarn data for free, for use in fabric simulation and virtual sampling on APEXFiz®, avoiding the need to scan yarn on their own. By using yarn that is used in actual production, designers and apparel companies can furthermore rest assured that the simulations created using yarn from yarnbank® are not merely realistic images but accurate representations using yarn that can actually be purchased and used in production. With yarnbank®, the entire supply chain from yarn companies and apparel companies to knit manufacturers can be connected digitally.

SHIMA SEIKI will also display the latest collection of its knit samples, including WHOLEGARMENT® knitwear that is knit in its entirety on the machine without the need for linking or sewing afterward. Together with virtual sampling performed on APEXFiz®, WHOLEGARMENT® offers smart production for realizing a sustainable fashion supply chain.