From the Sector

At the subsidiaries of the German Mahlo GmbH + Co KG, two branch managers are celebrating anniversaries this year. Alan Lavore, CEO of Mahlo America Inc., has been with the machine builder for 25 years. Michel Bruni, CEO of Mahlo Italia, has been part of the Mahlo family for 40 years.

Bruni began his career at Mahlo in 1981 as a service technician in the French branch Mahlo Ouest. Just one year later, he moved to Mahlo Italia, where he was appointed branch manager in 1996. He still holds this position today. Bruni is also sales manager for the Benelux countries, the Maghreb countries and Madagascar. The Mahlo Italia CEO's recipe for success includes expertise paired with experience and passion. To remain loyal to a company for so many years also testifies to a special relationship. "Then as now, I work with a dynamic and committed team. We also have a very good relationship with the employees of the parent company in Germany," says Bruni.

The culture and integrity with which business is conducted in the family-owned company were among the reasons why Mahlo America Inc. CEO Alan Lavore has also been with Mahlo for 25 years. "I just love working with all the great people at Mahlo." Lavore joined Mahlo in 1996 as a territory sales manager and took over as CEO in 2005. During this time, he drove the company's expansion from a textile specialist to a supplier for various production sectors such as film, paper, coating and converting or nonwovens.

In 2021, Berto Industria Tessile embarked on a series of journeys through the denim supply chain, touching both B2B and B2C worlds.

The first journey of this adventure, aimed at discovering and publicizing the world of indigo and, began by talking about the collaboration with the turkish garment maker blue matters creating a green collection to be proposed to the world's top brands, continuing with “su mirura project” in the second chapter.
This project has its objective in supports, with a ready on stock fabrics, (which at this time of difficult availability of product becomes extremely relevant), young emerging talents in the world of fashion that, in our industry, both for problems related to  minimum order quantities and for problems related to financial commitments of startups, would having difficulty in the raw materials research.

In this third chapter of the personal voyage into the world of denim, Berto Industria Tessile talks about two realities that are not only made in Italy, but also made in veneto, for a zero km circularity supports.

Two brands that are part of two different segments of the indigo world of b2c, one operating in the world of clothing and one in the creation of fashion accessories, but who have a common denominator between them, the use of 100% in their collections of denim fabric Berto.*

* See attached document for more information.

The Chairman of the Walter Reiners-Stiftung foundation of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association, Peter D. Dornier has awarded prizes to three successful young engineers. The award-winning works provide practical solutions on the topic of circular economy. For example, the recycling of carbon fibres, which are used to produce lightweight components for the automotive industry. Or the environmentally friendly production of yarns from crab shells. Another topic was medical applications: The processing of ultra-fine yarns into stents for aortic repair. The award ceremony took place online on 9 November as part of the Aachen-Dresden-Denkendorf International Textile Conference.  

With a creativity prize, endowed with 3,000 euros, the foundation honoured the diploma thesis of Irina Kuznik, TU Dresden. She used a creative approach to realise solutions for processing chitosan into fibre yarn.

Mr Kai-Chieh Kuo was awarded the diploma/master's thesis promotion prize of 3,500 euros. With his master's thesis, which was written at RWTH Aachen University, Mr Kuo contributes to the production of vital components used in medicine. The stents made of ultra-fine yarns are made possible by an innovative modification of the classic tube weaving process.

The Walter Reiners Foundation rewarded the doctoral thesis of Dr. Martin Hengstermann with the promotional prize in the dissertation category, endowed with 5,000 euros. The thesis deals with the production of recycled carbon fibres. These can be used to produce lightweight components for motor vehicle and aircraft construction or the wind energy sector.

New Prize Sustainability / Circular Economy
The environmental conditions of the textile industry and machine construction are changing. Topics such as climate protection and the circular economy are becoming central. From this perspective, the board of the Walter Reiners Foundation has decided to further develop the foundation's prize system.

In 2022, the foundation will for the first time offer a prize with a focus on design / sustainability. Peter D. Dornier, Chairman of the Foundation, explained: "Already in the design phase, one can set the parameters so that a textile product can be reintroduced after use into the economic cycle for a high-quality application. For example, through the appropriate use of materials and finishing. We are looking for solutions for resource-saving design, technology and manufacturing processes."   

Composites Evolution exhibited at the Advanced Engineering 2021 show on 3rd - 4th November highlighting its range of prepreg and introducing a new thermoplastic tape manufacturing capability.

Composites Evolution is a developer, manufacturer and supplier of prepregs for the production of lightweight structures from composite materials. A flexible approach allows Composites Evolution to offer short lead times and low minimum order quantities, while decades of combined expertise ensure that in-depth technical support is on-hand when customers need it.

Showcased was a battery box from a high-performance luxury electric vehicle manufactured from Evopreg® PFC bio-based, fire-resistant prepreg, a rear wing from a Ginetta G56 GTA GT4 race car utilising Evopreg® ampliTex™ natural fibre prepreg, and parts fabricated from the company’s newly-launched Evopreg® PA thermoplastic tape range.

Composites Evolution has a family of specialist prepregs for various applications, including Evopreg® EPC epoxy component prepregs which are a range of pre-impregnated fabrics suitable for moulding into high-performance, lightweight, structural components; Evopreg® EPT epoxy tooling prepregs which have been designed to help composite tooling manufacturers improve the flexibility and efficiency of their tooling manufacturing processes; and Evopreg® PFC fire-retardant prepregs a 100% bio-derived alternative to phenolics for applications where fire performance is a critical requirement.

Evopreg® ampliTex™ combines Composite Evolution’s high-performance Evopreg® epoxy resin systems with Bcomp’s award-winning ampliTex™ flax reinforcements, to deliver a family of materials which offer outstanding performance for component applications.

Composites Evolution launched their new range of Evopreg® PA Thermoplastic Tapes at Advanced Engineering; these are manufactured from polyamide-6 (PA6) polymer with unidirectional carbon fibre and are suitable for automated tape laying, winding and compression moulding into high-performance, lightweight components.

Der Textilhersteller Wolford möchte seinen Kunden ein modernes und nahtloses Shoppingerlebnis bieten und beauftragt die Digitalagentur diva-e mit der Implementierung einer revolutionären Omnichannel-Lösung. Filialen, Online-Shop und Marktplätze wie Zalando und Amazon werden dabei nahtlos miteinander verknüpft. Zum Einsatz kommt die Software-Architektur „MACH“, die für maximale Flexibilität und bestmögliche Benutzerfreundlichkeit sorgt.

Der Textilhersteller Wolford startet mit „Wolford X“ eine umfassende Digitalisierungsinitiative mit mehreren Partnern, um sich zukunftsorientiert aufzustellen und die Kundenerfahrung auf ein neues Level zu heben. Ziel ist die Etablierung einer Omnichannel-Lösung, bei der Filialen, Online-Shop, Social Media und Marketplaces miteinander verknüpft werden. Die Digitalagentur diva-e ist als führender Partner im Projekt mit der Umsetzung des Großteils der Plattform für die neue Omnichannel-Lösung beauftragt. Mit dem Einsatz des MACH-Architekturansatzes implementiert diva-e eine zukunftsträchtige Infrastruktur, die für Wolford die Möglichkeit schafft, zukünftig mit hoher Geschwindigkeit die Komponenten der Omnichannel-Plattform weiterzuentwickeln, umzugestalten, auszutauschen und so neue Services auszurollen. Ebenfalls an dem Projekt beteiligt sind Commercetools, Newstore, Bloomreach, Tealium, Stibo STEP und Vue Storefront.
 
Zum Einsatz kommt die erste und international führende Omnichannel-Plattform von NewStore. Sie bietet Kunden eine nahtlose und stark individualisierte Einkaufserfahrung, die beispielsweise Endless Aisle Szenarien ermöglicht. Bei diesen werden Kunden beim Besuch eines stationären Geschäfts erkannt und der Verkäufer erhält über eine App die Kundeninformationen zu den bereits im Online Shop favorisierten oder gekauften Produkten. Diese oder ähnliche Produkte kann er dann direkt zur Anprobe anbieten. Sollte der gewünschte Artikel im stationären Store nicht vorrätig sein, besteht zudem die Möglichkeit, sich diesen taggleich nach Hause senden zu lassen.
 
Die Voraussetzung und gleichzeitig Herausforderung für dieses neuartige Shoppingerlebnis ist die Verknüpfung verschiedener Daten. Kunden-, Produkt- und Bestelldaten müssen im Sinne eines bestmöglichen Kundenerlebnisses an allen Touchpoints zusammengeführt werden.
 
Das umfangreiche Omnichannel-Projekt ist eines der Ersten seiner Größe am europäischen Markt und wird voraussichtlich im Juni 2022 abgeschlossen sein. 

Autoneum presented an insight into current market trends and the Company's strategic focus in the areas of electromobility and sustainability, as well as an outlook on its medium-term financial targets at the media and financial analysts brunch.

In addition to current market expectations and trends in the automotive industry, the focus will be on Autoneum’s activities and growth potential in the areas of e-mobility and sustainability. Matthias Holzammer, CEO, and other experts of the Company will present Autoneum's latest developments with regard to New Mobility and sustainable product innovations as well as their strategic classification. CFO Bernhard Wiehl will also present Autoneum's new medium-term financial targets.

Based on the further expansion of the portfolio with sustainable products and new applications for e-vehicles as well as the increase in market share with existing and new customers, particularly in Asia, the Company expects a profitable revenue growth at market level in the medium term. Based on the expected revenue development, further progress in the turnaround of North America as well as the consistently practiced operational excellence in all business areas, Autoneum targets an EBITDA margin of 13% in the medium term. Accordingly, a solid free cash flow in the amount of 6% of revenue and a further increase in the equity ratio to over 35% are targeted. The Company still intends to pay a dividend to shareholders of at least 30% of the profit attributable to Autoneum shareholders.

• Alchemie Technology asks world leaders to cut energy and CO2 emissions from global fashion industry

Alchemie Technology, innovator of low energy, waterless, textile dyeing and finishing technology, is calling on COP26 leaders to support the global fashion industry in the adoption of new manufacturing technology, which will dramatically reduce carbon emissions and fashion’s impact on climate change.

While the fashion industry is one of the most polluting on the planet, second only to oil and gas, and greenhouse gas emissions from textile dyeing at around 3% of global emissions outweigh that of all international flights and maritime shipping combined, it is an industry that can also reduce CO2 emissions the fastest, just by changing the way it dyes fabrics.  

Fabric dyeing is the most polluting part of fashion and activewear manufacturing, involving industrial scale dye baths and huge amounts of dye chemicals, steam, electrical power, and consequent high CO2 emissions.  Repeated washing of the dyed fabric, required to remove dye residue, is responsible for 20% of the world’s wastewater pollution and excess dye is discharged into waterways, affecting the health of some of the world’s poorest communities. In more regulated areas, water pollution is reduced through reliance on energy intensive water treatment plants.

However, an environmental step change can be achieved by adopting new digital technology that can dye fabrics with an 85% reduction in energy consumption and a dramatic 95% reduction of the 1.3 trillion litres of water currently used by the industry each year.

For example, dyeing one polyester shirt using current methods generates 4.5 litres of wastewater and produces 0.17 Kg of CO2, compared to low energy digital technology, which uses less than 0.2 litres of water and reduces carbon emissions to 0.03 Kg.  Multiply these numbers by the billions of garments dyed each year and the scale of the environmental problem, if nothing changes, is clear to see.  Equally, the amount by which the textile industry can improve its carbon footprint is dramatic and can be done quickly if action is taken now.
Dr Simon Kew, Managing Director, Alchemie Technology comments “The technology now exists to enable the textile industry to make a significant contribution to helping meet the world’s net zero, climate change goals. But it requires the support of governments through investment, grants and legislation and the critical effort of brands, and their manufacturing supply chains to work together to make the change.”

• CHIC Shanghai successfully completed under high safety and hygiene conditions
• The trend hotspot for the Chinese sales market: Lively interest of more than 20,000 trade visitors in the new collections of the 487 brands at the NECC in Shanghai
• Sustainability in great demand in all areas
• CHIC Shenzhen focuses on trading in the strong sales region of South China and the international clusters Hong Kong and Macao: Date postponed from November to December due to current Covid-19 cases in China

The fashion world of China met at the physical event CHIC Shanghai from October 9-11, 2021 at the National Exhibition and Convention Center in Shanghai

487 exhibitors presented themselves in clearly structured segments on 50,000 square meters. Maximum compliance with the security measures determined the course. Against this background the exhibitors welcomed more than 20,000 trade visitors and reported cheerful orders.

The 487 exhibitors were also satisfied with the business activity and reported successful orders.

Perfect presentation platform: the CHIC Matching area
The expanded matchmaking events at CHIC were also enthusiastically received.
In total, over 37 matchmaking events took place in the specially set up matching area consisting of several presentation platforms and private negotiation rooms at the fair. From company presentations by industry giants such as Shein, through trade fair tours to selected one-on-one discussions, CHIC brought exhibitors and visitors together in a targeted manner. More than 600 participants have been matched by this CHIC event. Among them visitors such as Shein, Walmart, Wang Yi Yan Xuan, Tiktok, BAILIAN GROUP, LIQUN etc, parts of the organizer's broad network.

Continuing growth: sustainable productions
Sustainability is one of the most important consumer trends in China. CHIC played the theme in all exhibition areas; from womenswear, kidswear and menswear to accessories, sustainable collections were represented in all segments.

Design talent and traditional styles
In the IMPULSES area, innovative designer brands showed inspiring trends, high-quality collections and fashion variety like Kmusso, MIJA or Yu Jian Tian with its new design collection made by natural materials such as mulberry silk and wool, presenting the unique traditional Chinese style.

CHIC Shanghai presented the entire range of the fashion business in a total of 12 exhibition segments. This year's acclaimed visual concept, created by lava beijing, has been awarded the Bronze Award of the Hiiibrand Awards 2021 in the Identity category.

Digital tools and physical events
In addition to the on-site trade fair offer, CHIC is expanding its reach through the consistent use of digital tools. The CHIC app combines all the functions needed for a successful trade fair participation, from the digital trade fair catalog and matchmaking to direct appointments and live chats for all participants who cannot be on site.

The next CHIC in Shanghai will take place in March 2022.

The ITA Group, consisting of the Institute for Textile Technology of RWTH Aachen University (ITA), their research and development service provider ITA Technologietransfer GmbH (ITA GmbH) are proud to announce their new strategic positioning: in order to better respond to actual industrial demands and needs, ITA decided to install a partnership model as of January, 25 2022.

The ITA Group comprises the ITA of RWTH Aachen University, a leading research and qualification research institute with 400 employees in the areas of fibre-based high-performance materials, textile semi-finished products and their manufacturing processes and the ITA Technologietransfer GmbH, the partner of the industry in R&D, providing technology and knowledge transfer, as well as offering comprehensive solutions along the entire textile value chain.

Prof. Dr. Thomas Gries, Director of ITA, explains the new partnership model:” The impact of the Covid-19-crisis has shown once more the importance of long-term trustworthy business relationships. Therefore, we are establishing our new partnership model where we will even more closely cooperate with our actual and future industrial partners, providing them with the latest technologies and innovations from R&D side. We will initiate networking and workgroup meetings, offer access to ITA´s large machine parks and labs, carry out joint partner projects and commonly organized publicly-funded projects as well as training for partner´s employees and HR opportunities.”

Dr. Christoph Greb, Scientific Director of ITA: “We are very happy to initiate this new partnership model where science, research and industry are working shoulder to shoulder in pre-competitive projects on our future projects along the entire value-chain from the fibre to the final component in order to close a missing gap and form innovative paths forward in various industrial fields.”

During an initial session of three Innovation days in hybrid format, ITA successfully introduced in September 2021 the first industrial partner projects which will be carried out, among them “Recycling of composite battery cases”, “Recycling of composite pressure vessels”, “Natural Fibre Composites”, “Textile Structures with focus on biaxial Warp-Knitted Structures”, “Factory of the Future”, “Tapes and Hybrid Yarns”.

The next opportunity to meet with ITA is at JEC DACH in Frankfurt (November 23 and 24 2021).

Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles concluded its 27th autumn edition in early October. Held alongside four other concurrent textile shows, the fair was the only major event for this sector able to take place in China during this season, providing a much-needed business platform for 735 exhibitors and 20,106 trade buyers. The fair was held at the National Exhibition and Convention Center (Shanghai).

Ms Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd expressed: “Due to the valuable cooperation of many parties and the continued support of our exhibitors and other partners, we were able to hold the fair as scheduled despite a number of challenges. Since the pandemic situation was brought under control in China last year, we have expended considerable resources to ensure our textile fairs still take place to provide trading platforms that connect the global industry. This edition was especially important as it was the only major fair to take place in the country at this time.”

While a number of international exhibitors participated this year with individual booths, the Belgium Pavilion presented home and contract products and five Chinese regional pavilions from Hangzhou, Shaoxing, Huzhou, Haining, and Tongxiang also featured. Two trend forums also provided inspiration for 2022, while the IKASAS Japanese Home Design Gallery, New Voices of Top Youth Upholstery Designers City Roving Exhibition and China International Fiber Art Exhibition gave further insights into various aspects of the industry.

Fair’s fringe programme highlights sustainability, design and more
As with all of Messe Frankfurt’s textile fairs around the world, sustainability is a big focus. A number of events under this focus took place in the fair’s fringe programme, including a half day forum titled How Sustainable Fashion is Reshaping Lifestyles, with a range of innovative companies and prestigious universities participating as speakers.

The Design Talk session featured a series of presentations from leading international designers, including from China, Japan and Europe, to share their design insights. And a new concept this year, titled New Voices of Top Youth Upholstery Designers – Intertextile Upholstery Design and City Roving Exhibition, showcased the work of six groups of young local designers from across China who presented the interior design ideas of their generation through displays and a forum. And reflecting the changes that continue to accelerate in the industry, a number of e-commerce and cross-border trade events took place, including sessions from the likes of JD Home, AliExpress and Tmall.

The 2022 Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Spring Edition will take place from 9 – 11 March, while the Autumn Edition is scheduled for 23 – 25 August 2022.