From the Sector

With its new Trend and Event Platform, the Premium Group presents a new concept for a progressive community. According to Premium Group classic trade fair formats are over - this summer it's all about (re)connection, real emotions and new perspectives. The emphasis lies on the most relevant trends and the power of networking, but in a more personalised and intimate way.

PREMIUM and SEEK are focusing on a more rigorous curation of promising brands and collections as well as various opportunities to connect. An extensive content programme of keynotes, round tables, live interviews, study presentations and panels on the most important trends will offer two diverse and time-efficient days. The areas of concentration encompass sustainability, technology, fashion, business, lifestyle, and beauty. The repertoire of topics include marketing themes such as LinkedIn and Tik Tok, new tech tools such as ChatGPT or Virtual Dressing as well as news from the metaverse. Sustainability topics such as denim, circularity, re-commerce, vintage and the new Green Deal laws will be discussed as well as cross-industry topics such as female empowerment, Gen Z and modern leadership.
     
PREMIUM marks the first event of the season for womenswear. New silhouettes, design trends, provocation and the current zeitgeist are brought to the forefront with a carefully curated selection of brands. The fashion scene and visitors can look forward to the best of denim, hyper-femininity, beauty, well-being, future Berlin icons and innovations from the tech and lifestyle sphere. New talents will also have the opportunity to pitch their labels to a professional audience. SEEK focuses on heritage, Y2K, modern sportswear, outdoor and sustainable brands, which will be shown in the CONSCIOUS CLUB. Other highlights will include talks and inspiring activations from the community.

"We listen, research and curate the most important trends for the industry. To do this, our team of experts travels across Europe and exchange ideas with representatives from the entire industry. The results of months of work can be discovered in two days," says Maren Wiebus, Creative Director of the Premium Group.

Today, attention is the most important currency for the fashion industry. This is also why, for the very first time ever, the Premium Group events will take place over only two days instead of three. At the same time, generally accepted norms and rules are questioned, taken apart, and put back together again. The organisers of Premium Group invite fashion professionals to discuss the rules and redefine them together.
 
The summer editions of PREMIUM and SEEK will take place on 11 and 12 July at the new old location Station-Berlin in the heart of Berlin.

With a current booking level of almost 90% for the international fabric trade show MUNICH FABRIC START, KEYHOUSE, THE SOURCE and BLUEZONE, Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH is starting the new season for Autumn.Winter 24/25 on a strong footing. From the organisers' point of view, the main reason for the high level of acceptance is the rebalancing of the July dates.

The international fabric trade show MUNICH FABRIC START (18 to 20 July), the innovation hub KEYHOUSE, theb one-stop sourcing platform THE SOURCE and the international denim trade show BLUEZONE (18 and 19 July) will move ahead and at the same time increase their relevance in the international trade show scene. For a large part of the visitors, the earlier date is closer to the collection rhythms and offers more time for further developments.

What's new?
Due to the early date of MUNICH FABRIC START and BLUEZONE, the Munich trade show duo with KEYHOUSE and THE SOURCE formats will function even more strongly as an impulse generator and leading international event. The Munich location will also be strengthened by the relocation of the DMI Fashion Day from Düsseldorf to the Bavarian capital. The first DMI FASHION DAY LIVE will take place the day before the next MUNICH FABRIC START at the MOC.

The course will also be set anew in September: The date, which remains important for the industry, will in future be occupied by reVIEW - the new format of the VIEW PREMIUM SELECTION for follow-ups and trends as well as new market developments. On an area of around 2,500 square metres, the first reVIEW Autumn.Winter 24/25 will be held on 13 and 14 September 2023 on the Zenith grounds in Motorworld.

From March 15-16, 2023, the spring edition of PERFORMANCE DAYS kicked off on the fairgrounds of Messe München. With around 2,685 visitors, the event organizers were particularly pleased with numbers up on the previous winter fair. High attendances were also evident at the Expert Talks on both days, which provided information on the latest color and fabric trends, news on developments in sustainability and new technologies from fiber manufacturers. The focal points of the show were marked by the PERFORMANCE FORUM, which showcased the fabric highlights for the spring/summer 2025 season as well as the two PERFORMANCE AWARD and ECO PERFORMANCE AWARD winners.

After the kick-off event in Munich in March, the industry now looks forward to the follow-up fairs in Portland from April 4-5, 2023 and in Shanghai, April 10-11, 2023.

New concept starting October 2023: Premiere for highlighted focus on footwear
As part of the upcoming PERFORMANCE DAYS, which will once again take place at the Messe München exhibition center on October 4-5, 2023, the event organizers will no longer focus explicitly on sustainable functional textiles and accessories, but will also focus on the footwear market.

To support the integration of the footwear market into the trade fair events in Munich, Portland, New York and Shanghai, the organizers have brought on board two industry specialists, Nina Conrad and Rucky Zambrano.

Nina Conrad has been active as a sustainability consultant in the textile and leather industry for many years, specializing in traceable and local supply chains. Her core business is the production of leather and leather goods derived from animals raised on certified organic farms. She is also a founding partner of the Sustainable Leather Foundation and co-founder of the Fibershed subsiduary DACH.

Rucky Zambrano is a industrial designer and expert. When he got to know Vibram in 1992, he shifted his career to footwear for reasons of passion. For 13 years now, Zambrana and Vibram have been a driving force in the footwear market and made the leap from performance to fashion, as witnessed with the Merrell Chameleon, the Prada Luna Rossa boat shoe sole or the latest Vibram FiveFingers models. He is currently responsible for footwear for the Finnish children’s outdoor brand Reima.

The steering committee for the Denim Deal has announced that Haelixa, the Swiss standard in physical traceability, is approved as a new signature. The Denim Deal is an international collaboration of more than 50 private and public sector companies united in the commitment to produce denim more circularly.

The Denim Deal aims to close the loop and achieve change in the value chain. Based in Amsterdam, the group is working towards a circular economy where textile waste no longer exists. The brand and manufacturing members pledge to work towards using 5% recycled post-consumer cotton in all future denim collections and produce 3 million denim jeans made with 20% recycled post-consumer cotton.

Coordination of the Denim Deal is led by Roosmarie Ruigrok, where the objective is to unite potential allies who have made the journey to circularity a priority. She has been working to improve sustainability in textiles for more than two decades and is an expert on enrolling the correct stakeholders to instigate change. Ruigrok states, "a circular supply chain in the textile industry is like a well-prepared machine - it ensures that every part of the production process runs smoothly, from sourcing post-consumer materials to delivering well-made finished products to customers. It not only drives efficiency and profitability but also builds trust among stakeholders and fosters sustainable practices - we welcome Haelixa who offers a trustful traceability solution."

Over the last few years, the demand for the technology in recycled denim has grown as brands are asked to validate their recycling claims. Haelixa’s unique DNA solution marks and traces fibers from the source to retail. Using DNA to mark the recycled post-consumer cotton, Haelixa substantiates claims by testing the final garment to validate that the marked waste is present.

The Denim Deal is pushing to lead the change in how denim is made. Changing the standards of operation is always challenging, and traceability is a key to authenticating recycled claims. “We are committed to promoting the use of recycled fibers through traceability and thrilled to align with this group,” said Holly Berger, Haelixa’s Marketing Director. “The goals of the Denim Deal support our vision for a circular economy.”

The Premium Group have announced a repositioning of its flagship trade shows PREMIUM and SEEK.
     
The first change is the relocation of the event to its iconic location: the Station Berlin. The venue is a historic place, which has served as the home of the Premium Group trade shows in the past.
The event will also be shortened to two days instead of three days, with new opening hours from 10 am - 10 pm including networking events and parties. This is a reflection of the changing times and the need to provide more efficient business and networking opportunities for exhibitors and visitors, maximizing their time and investment.

PREMIUM and SEEK will be held together and focus on curated trends, lifestyle brands, and sophisticated fashion collections. The CONSCIOUS CLUB remains one of Europe's biggest platforms for sustainability in fashion showcasing promosing brands and developments. Brands, retailers, and visitors can expect a more surprising, and streamlined event. The booth concept will be limited to a maximum size of 100 sqm, with a new sustainable booth system.

The summer editions of PREMIUM, SEEK, and the CONSCIOUS CLUB will take place on the 11th & 12th of July 2023 in Berlin.

The BOGNER Wanderlust styles transport the iconic BOGNER après-ski look into summer, combining details from hiking and active sports with fashionable urban silhouettes.

Vintage details from the BOGNER archives are reinterpreted through modern materials. Slightly cropped tops with dropped shoulders and voluminous sleeves meet piped pockets and striking hoods. BOGNER typical performance elements are combined with sustainability through natural materials like Bavarian Wool and recycled polyester. The highlights of the styles are prints by Viennese street artist Manuel Skirl capturing the spirit of wanderlust. The result is a creation of handmade and digitized prints that resemble a topographical map of a mountain.

Textile performance inspired by nature - Swiss textile manufacturer Schoeller Textil AG launches the sustainable textile collection RE-SOURCE as part of its brand sustainability strategy. All textile innovations in the collection are made from bio-based, post- as well as pre-consumer materials such as recycled polyester and spandex. These are further enhanced with Schoeller textile technologies to provide the wearer with breathability, thermal regulation and wind and water repellency.

Two textile innovations in the collection have been lined on the inside with natural NATIVA Merino wool, produced under the highest sustainability standards. The manufacturing process of NATIVA Merino wool is 100% transparent and traceable for consumers through blockchain technology. NATIVA farms worldwide meet strict social and environmental requirements for animal welfare (ban on mulesing), land management and ethical labour guidelines.

Schoeller is committed to the CODE OF CONDUCT, which guarantees transparent production chains, environmental protection and fair working conditions. All RE-SOURCE textile innovations are bluesign approved - the international standard for responsible and sustainable textile manufacturing.

"The special Q-cycle process was used for RE-SOURCE. The resistant and durable Q-cycle polyamide is obtained by pyrolysis of used tyres and thus saves Co2 emissions compared to the combustion process. In this way, we are helping to protect the climate with Q-cycle," says Hans Kohn, COO, Schoeller Technologies AG.

The new recycled textile collection will be presented at the PERFORMANCE DAYS textile trade fair in Munich from 15-16 March 2023.

Carbios announces its membership of the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Network. Carbios shares the Foundation’s commitment to accelerate the transition to a circular economy, especially in the areas of plastics and fashion. By joining the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Network, Carbios will connect with other leaders within the Foundation’s leading circular economy network of businesses, policymakers, academia, innovators, and thought leaders worldwide.

Carbios fully adheres to Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s vision for a circular economy for plastic. Its biorecycling and biodegradation technologies already match the actions defined by the Foundation:

• Eliminate all problematic and unnecessary plastic items
• Innovate to ensure that the plastics we do need are reusable, recyclable, or compostable
• Circulate all the plastic items we use to keep them in the economy and out of the environment

Through ambitious collaborative projects, plastics and fashion are two topic areas for the Foundation and are also at the heart of Carbios’ activities. Providing actionable solutions to support brands’ ambitious commitments for sustainable packaging and textile industries, Carbios has founded two consortiums: one in the packaging industry established with L’Oréal in 2019, which has since been joined by Nestlé Waters, PepsiCo and Suntory Beverage & Food Europe; another created in 2022 in the textile industry with apparel and fashion brands On, Patagonia, PUMA, PVH Corp. and Salomon. Together, the consortium members develop solutions promoting the recyclability and circularity of their products.

Joining the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Network takes Carbios’ circular economy actions one step further. Carbios recently underscored its commitment to circularity and environmental responsibilities by publishing its first Sustainability Report at the end of 2022^[1]. In 2019, Carbios’ biorecycling and biodegradable solutions were among the first innovations to be labelled “Efficient Solution” by the Solar Impulse Foundation^[2].

^[1] Cf. press release dated 15 December 2022
^[2] The Solar Impulse Foundation has identified over a thousand clean and profitable solutions that are economically viable and can be implemented on a large scale.

Textile waste is a problem in Europe. Out of 7-7.5 million tonnes of textiles discarded every year, 30-35 % are collected separately – and of that quantity, 15-20 % are sorted by medium and larger sorting facilities within the EU. After sorting, 60 % still qualify as wearable clothes, however after a second or third collection-loop, all of the textiles become non-wearable sooner or later. Therefore, fibre-to-fibre recycling is becoming increasingly important to preserve the valuable resources.
 
The textile recycling value chain is not yet mature, but we are on the verge of a turning point, as different fibre-recycling technologies are deployed on a large scale. If successful, the textile recycling industry could reach a recycling rate of 18 to 26 percent of gross textile waste in 2030. This would create economic, social and environmental value that could total 3.5 to 4.5 billion euros in 2030.

Today, there is a sorting gap to achieve a circular economy for textiles in Europe. To feed this new circular value chain, a significant sorting-capacity increase is needed with 150 to 250 sorting and recycling facilities nearby, as the McKinsey-study “turning waste into value” assessed.

There is also a technology and capacity gap in sorting for reuse and recycling to ensure that high quality raw materials from non-wearable textile waste can be made available on a large scale. This is why the “Transform Textile Waste into Feedstock” project was initiated by TEXAID, within the ReHubs initiative together with well-known stakeholders of the textile value chain.

The major outcome of this project will be a sorting-factory blueprint fulfilling the requirements to the future needs of fibre-to-fibre recycling, enabling the future of more sustainable textiles by using recycled fibres. TEXAID, who is leading the project, is committed to build and operate scalable sorting facilities across Europe, the first with a capacity of 50,000 tonnes by the end of 2024.

Companies like Concordia, CuRe Technology, Decathlon, Inditex, Indorama Ventures, L’Atelier des Matières, Lenzing, Marchi & Fildi, PurFi, Södra, Worn Again and others are taking part in the project to jointly evaluate technologies and the business case for scaled sorting for reuse and recycling. ITA Academy GmbH (in cooperation with RWTH Aachen) together with CETIA has been commissioned for the assessment of technologies. The outcome will be an innovative sorting system 4.0, building on cross-functional technologies with digitalization and automation are at the heart.

• Iconic 200 Series fleece to be the first fabric made from this new process.

Polartec®, a Milliken & Company brand, announces Polartec® Shed Less Fleece, a new milestone in its industry-leading efforts to reduce textile fiber fragment shedding. Shed Less is a process that combines yarn construction, knitting, chemistry, and manufacturing to reduce home laundry fiber fragment shedding by an average of 85%. The first fabric to receive this new technology is the brand’s iconic Polartec® 200 Series Fleece, the modern version of the original PolarFleece® launched in 1981, and in 1993, the first performance fleece knit from yarn made from recycled plastic bottles.

The Shed Less process works by engineering the lofted fibers that give fleece its soft hand the ability to resist breaking and rubbing off during home laundering, cited as one contributing factor to the spread of fibers fragments (commonly referred to as microfibers). Polartec® Shed Less Fleece achieves this while maintaining all of the attributes that continue to make Polartec fleece a staple of midlayer collections - lightweight, breathable and warm.

The brand used the AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists) TM212-2021 test method for fiber fragment release during home laundering. This test was conducted with large sample sizes to account for variability. The testing concluded that Shed Less Fleece reduced fiber fragment shedding by an average of 85% compared to the baseline fabric.

“In 2016 we began looking into how we might test for fiber loss because there wasn’t a lot of research on the issue.” said Aimee LaValley, Polartec Textile Development, Dye and Chemistry Manager. “This led to new products like Polartec Power Air™, new manufacturing processes, as well as our participation in the TextileMission workgroup to study the issue on an interdisciplinary basis.”

TextileMission was a three year collaborative initiative of academia and industry to reduce the impact of textile microplastics funded by the German Federal Ministry of Education and Research. Founding partners include The Association of the German Sporting Goods Industry, Hochschule Niederrhein - University of Applied Science; TU Dresden - Institute of Water Chemistry; Vaude Sport; WWF Germany; Adidas AG; Henkel AG; Miele & CIE; and Polartec, LLC.

Polartec® Shed Less Fleece will be initially launched in the United States and will be available to customers beginning March 1, 2023. The brand plans to apply the Shed Less process to many other industry-leading fabric platforms and manufacturing facilities around the world.